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- Sailboat Guide
US 30 is a 29 ′ 11 ″ / 9.1 m monohull sailboat designed by Douglas Peterson/Daryl Watson and built by Bayliner (Buccaneer/US Yachts) between 1979 and 1983.
- 2 / 11 Hampton River, Hampton, VA, US 1972 US 30 $4,000 USD View
- 3 / 11 Hampton River, Hampton, VA, US 1972 US 30 $4,000 USD View
- 4 / 11 Hampton River, Hampton, VA, US 1972 US 30 $4,000 USD View
- 5 / 11 Hampton River, Hampton, VA, US 1972 US 30 $4,000 USD View
- 6 / 11 Hampton River, Hampton, VA, US 1972 US 30 $4,000 USD View
- 7 / 11 Hampton River, Hampton, VA, US 1972 US 30 $4,000 USD View
- 8 / 11 Hampton River, Hampton, VA, US 1972 US 30 $4,000 USD View
- 9 / 11 Hampton River, Hampton, VA, US 1972 US 30 $4,000 USD View
- 10 / 11 Hampton River, Hampton, VA, US 1972 US 30 $4,000 USD View
- 11 / 11 Hampton River, Hampton, VA, US 1972 US 30 $4,000 USD View
Rig and Sails
Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
Sail Area / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
- SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
- D : Displacement in pounds.
Ballast / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
Displacement / Length Ratio
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
- LWL: Waterline length in feet
Comfort Ratio
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
- LOA: Length overall in feet
- Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
Capsize Screening Formula
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
The hull for both the BUCCANEER 295 and US 30 are, in part, based on an earlier Peterson 1/2 ton design though Peterson had no role in the production of any of these subsequent boats nor were royalties paid. (The sailboat division of Bayliner took the practice of reusing the tooling from defunct builders to a whole new level.) The US 30 has a different deck than the BUCCANEER. Recycled once again for a short time by Pearson Yachts as the TRITON 30. Shoal draft version: 3.92’/1.19m.
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Yachting Monthly
- Digital edition
Jeanneau Sun Light 30 Review: A Family Cruiser With Racing Influence
- David Harding
- September 24, 2024
As a light and sprightly coastal cruiser with racing potential and room for the family, the Jeanneau Sun Light 30 has much to offer
Product Overview
Jeanneau sun light 30.
When the big French production builders started launching boats like the Jeanneau Sun Light 30 in the mid-to-late 1980s, they got the British builders worried.
I was working in the sales office of Sadler Yachts at the time. Sadlers, along with other British yards such as Westerly, Moody and Hunter, had always prided themselves on producing rugged, capable cruisers that would look after the crew when the going got tough and that were built to last.
Aesthetics are important to some owners, and the Sun Light is less stark and angular than many more recent designs. Photo: David Harding
Then along came the new wave of family cruisers from across the Channel. They were typically much lighter than the British designs, with beamy, higher-volume hulls and spacious, airy interiors. Many of them sailed nicely in light airs and, importantly, they had room for a heads compartment and double cabin in their broad sterns.
This layout had first been seen on small boats in Jeanneau’s 27ft Fantasia in the early 1980s, and it caught on.
With some exceptions, British builders tended to stick to a more traditional approach in terms of both design and interior layout. For a while at least, the home-grown boats put up a good fight, often finding favour among owners with more offshore experience. When eventually most of their builders disappeared, it wasn’t just because the designs had become dated.
The conventional interior layout with its teak trim incorporates good handholds and stowage. Photo: David Harding
Whatever the reasons for the decline of the sailing-yacht industry in the UK, there’s no doubt that the French designs found wide appeal. Newcomers in particular often saw no point in buying a relatively narrow, heavy boat with a deeper, darker and smaller interior if they could have a boat that was lighter, brighter, cheaper and roomier – especially if it also sailed well in the sort of conditions they would want to go out in.
Jeanneau Sun Light 30: State of the eighties
One such design to emerge was Jeanneau’s Sun Light 30. She was designed in 1986 by Daniel Andrieu, a designer with an impressive record of race-winners under the IOR (International Offshore Rule). Many builders adapted successful IOR level-rating designs (quarter-tonners, half-tonners etc) by giving them smaller rigs and shallower keels and selling them as production cruisers with a winning pedigree.
Some of these were very successful for builders such as Beneteau and Jeanneau but, while the Sun Light was from a designer with a proven track record in the IOR, she wasn’t simply a de-tuned half-tonner.
New winches and running rigging can make a big difference to the ease of handling on an older boat. Photo: David Harding
Her racing influence was evident in her weight of just 6,800lb (3,100kg). Her rig was also of typical IOR proportions, with a large fore-triangle, overlapping headsails and a relatively small, high aspect-ratio mainsail. On the other hand, she had a more sensible keel than many IOR designs: essentially a parallelogram with a radius to the trailing edge and a slight swelling at the tip.
A further cruising ‘concession’ was a partial skeg in front of the rudder. With her generous beam and a broad stern by the standards of the day, the Sun Light was a prime example of the new generation of light, roomy and nippy cruiser/racers. Not surprisingly, she proved popular.
Article continues below…
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Looking to an upgrade
And, nearly 30 years later, she appealed to Paul Dale when he was looking for a 30-footer as a move up from his 24ft Fox Hound. At the time, Paul’s other boat was a Dufour 41 that he had sailed across to the Caribbean and kept (and raced) in Grenada. He and his wife wanted a small boat to keep on their mooring in Chichester for local sailing. The limitations of the Fox Hound’s size, however, meant that they started looking for something bigger after a couple of years, and 30ft (9m) seemed about the right length.
Paul had experience in boats both bigger and smaller, including his first boat (a Halcyon 27), a Contest 33, a Sigma 362 that he had raced extensively in RORC and JOG events, the Dufour, which he bought after the Sigma as a bigger and more comfortable boat for the ARC, and the Fox Hound.
A lifelong cruising and racing sailor, Paul Dale has owned boats from a Foxhound 24 to a Dufour 41. Photo: David Harding
‘We wanted our replacement for the Fox Hound to be capable of going across to Brittany or Normandy and living on for a week or two,’ said Paul, ‘so we bought this as a temporary measure. Then we sold the Dufour and thought we would put the money into something a bit more fancy.’
That was the initial plan, but what to buy? The reasoning behind the purchase and subsequent refurbishment of the Jeanneau Sun Light 30– and then the decision to keep it instead of buying a new boat – will be covered in an article by Paul in an upcoming issue as it is a good lesson in why an old boat can be as good as a new one. Suffice it to say that he saw nothing new of similar size that appealed, in terms of aesthetics (an important consideration) or functionality.
A friend bought a new 30-footer that, in races, Paul’s Jeanneau Sun Light 30 sailed straight past. Signs that the joinery on his friend’s new boat might not be set to last particularly well were a further consideration, so he decided to stick with what he had.
Boarding gates are a useful addition, rarely seen on boats of this size and age. Photo: David Harding
Old and good
Having now sailed Alexia for 10 years, Paul is more than happy with his decision not to change. But what is it about this design, now approaching 40 years old, that makes it so practical and versatile? I joined him on what eventually turned into a bright and breezy day to find out.
The mainsheet runs across a track on the aft end of the bridgedeck. Photo: David Harding
Alexia had been brought in from the mooring and was waiting alongside the Itchenor pontoon when I arrived, so there was no need to use the sugar-scoop to climb aboard over the stern. New boats typically have hinge-down transom platforms instead of sugar-scoops, to minimise ‘wasted’ hull length, but they only allow easier stern-boarding – whether from a dinghy or from the water – if lowered in advance. A sugar-scoop is there all the time. For convenience and safety, that has to be a significant plus.
For climbing aboard via the topsides, Paul fitted boarding gates between the stanchions. When the Jeanneau Sun Light 30 was new, she was sometimes criticised for having a deck that flexed in way of the stanchion feet – partly a result of her light weight – but the new feet for the gates felt pretty firm.
Wide, well-angled coamings make a very comfortable perch for the helmsman. Photo: David Harding
Punching the tide down the harbour was made easy by the new 20hp Yanmar 3YM, which gave us a comfortable 5 knots over the ground and 6 knots or more through the water. As we went, Paul explained that the boat was in heavy-displacement mode, carrying 200 litres of water and 90 litres of fuel ready for an imminent cruise to France. He fitted extra tanks, roughly doubling the standard capacity, for spending longer aboard. He accepts that the substantial increase in displacement inevitably slows down a boat that’s so light by design.
Performance features
Helping Alexia’s performance were features that you don’t always find on boats of this size and age, such as the Featherstream prop (‘a great buy’) and new (double-taffeta) laminate sails by North. Many 40-year-old boats have hardware well past its prime that makes for inefficient sail-handling, whereas Paul fitted new Lewmar self-tailing winches and Dyneema running rigging.
Generous beam creates plenty of space around the galley and chart table. Photo: David Harding
When we set sail off West Pole and I hopped into the RIB to take the photos, a south-westerly of 16-18 knots prompted Paul to start with one slab in the main. The wind soon decreased, and had dropped so much by the time I got back aboard that we had to shake out the reef. As we did so, I suggested that it might provoke the wind into returning.
About two minutes later, we saw a band of fresh-looking breeze filling in from about 30° to the left of its original direction. When it reached us, we found it was a mean of 20 knots gusting to over 23, and we were set up for 12-15 knots in terms of halyard tension, outhaul and all the other settings, quite apart from simply carrying too much sail.
Since time was against us and it would have taken more than a few minutes to adjust everything, I had a good opportunity to see how the boat behaved when well over-pressed. She handled surprisingly well, letting me feather her into the fresher patches while maintaining enough drive to power through the steep sea. The helm remained nicely balanced and our speed over the ground, with some adverse current, hovered in the mid-to-high 4s. Had we reconfigured everything I’m sure we could have achieved 5 knots even given the sea state and our draught of just 4ft 9in (1.45m). Over 5 knots would seem likely in flat water, especially with the optional deeper fin.
Caps, intermediates, forward lowers and aft lowers are all taken to separate chainplates in the middle of the side decks. Photo: David Harding
Significantly, the boat didn’t feel remotely skittish or on the edge. She had an easy motion and felt far more comfortable than might have been expected, given what we were asking of her. Downwind, she picked up her skirts and surfed readily as we gybed the angles back towards the harbour, frequently clocking over 8 knots. This is undoubtedly a quick, rewarding and responsive boat to sail that, as Paul observes, also sails more upright than many older designs.
A comfortable perch
For die-hard dinghy sailors – even those of us who have covered a few miles offshore – there’s still nowhere better to helm from than a comfortably angled cockpit coaming, with a tiller extension in one hand and the mainsheet within easy reach. That’s what you get with the Sun Light, and it adds to the pleasure of sailing her.
If you ask her to bear away without easing the mainsheet – you shouldn’t, but sometimes you have to – she responds dutifully, the rudder maintaining good grip.
The primary feature of designs from this era that can make them harder to sail is the size of the headsail, in this case combined with forward lowers to add to the fun of tacking. Those new Lewmar self-tailers definitely earn their keep.
A nav station with a well-sized chart table and space for instruments. Photo: David Harding
Then, when the breeze kicks in, you have to suffer the compromise of a rolled headsail whereas, with a newer design, you would de-power the mainsail and perhaps twist out the headsail slightly – all much easier to do. That’s one of the few compromises often seen in boats influenced by the IOR.
Although Alexia took the moderately brisk conditions of the day in her stride, Paul knows where the limits lie – for the boat and for him. ‘She’s far too light to be a serious offshore boat, because you get thrown about so much in a seaway. But with better forecasts, it’s not as though you have to endure ghastly weather these days.
For a Channel crossing going to windward, I would set out in a Force 3, maximum 4. If it’s a reach I will go up to Force 5, and if it’s a run or on the quarter I’ll go in a 6.’ When you’ve got wherever you’re going, the Sun Light offers good comfort and plenty of space below decks. Some of the woodwork has been replaced and much of it refurbished following Paul’s purchase.
Leech reefing pennants and the outhaul are handled by a winch on the mastLeech reefing pennants and the outhaul are handled by a winch on the mast. Photo: David Harding
The layout is conventional for the time, with the galley to port forward of the aft cabin, and the heads abaft the chart table to starboard. That’s unless you have the alternative layout with a linear galley to port opposite a dinette. The chart table– rarely seen on modern boats of this size – is another feature that Paul values, for use as a desk or just somewhere to sit and relax with a book. He considers the slightly smaller heads to be a worthwhile trade-off.
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Alexia is an example of how a 40-year-old boat can still be a fast, roomy, versatile and easy-to-handle cruiser if you choose the right design and, as Paul puts it, ‘if you’re prepared to spend the money and not put up with horrible old kit’. He acknowledges that he has spent more than he would ever see back if he were to sell – which he has no intention of doing – but he has got the boat he wants, for much less than the price of a new one. As ever with a boat, the important thing is to choose it according to the sort of sailing you have in mind. This owner knows what he likes and he knows what the boat likes. They get on together very well indeed.
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- Sailboat Reviews
Hunter 30: Still the Affordable Fantasy
Production coastal cruiser offers a lot of boat for not a lot of bucks..
Hunter Marine began building auxiliary sailboats in 1974, largely as the result of the first oil embargo and the new energy consciousness that followed. Founded by Warren Luhrs, Hunter began as a division of the powerboat-maker Silverton Yachts, which was interested in expanding its offerings and taking advantage of the new interest in saving fuel.
The companys aim was high-volume production, keeping prices low by standardizing design, making as few tooling changes as possible, and offering its boats fully equipped-while other companies were selling things like bow pulpits and lifelines as options on a 30-foot boat. The original Hunter boats were marketed as the affordable fantasy and came with sails, dock lines, fenders, life jackets, and fire extinguishers, in what Hunter called the Cruise Pak of standard features. About the only option available on the early Hunters was a choice of shoal- or deep-draft keel.
Photo by CeCe Stoldt
In 2012, Hunter Marine was sold to David Marlow, the builder of Marlow Yachts. With this change of ownership came a change in corporate goals and product offerings. Hunter Marine began-like its chief competitor, Catalina Yachts-with a small group of standardized models. From 1974 through 1977, it offered only the Hunter 25, 27, and 30 models, and from 1977 through 1979, the builder added only the 33 and 37. Today, Hunter-Marlow makes nine production models ranging from trailerable daysailors (15 to 22 feet) to mid-size (27 to 37 feet) and large (40 to 50 feet) keelboats.
Also, Hunters high-volume-production business model has been replaced with the Marlow ethos, which is more focused on yacht-level quality than production volume. Marlow-Hunter produces about 100 boats each year, including trailerable and cruising sailboats, as well as Mainship powerboats, according to Greg Emerson, Marlow-Hunters director of sales.
The Hunter 30
Designed by John Cherubini and built from 1974 to 1983, the Hunter 30 is a coastal cruiser that was designed to offer a lot of boat for little money. With a focus on streamlining construction to boost production volume, Hunter aimed to offer an affordable coastal racer-cruiser. More than 1,000 Hunter 30s were built over the nine-year production run; however, a number of them were sold as Quest 30s, which was essentially a sail-away, bare-hull kit boat, and the purchaser completed the interior and the fitting out.
For this report, we checked out a 1980 Hunter 30 (hull #934) and a 1978 model (hull #568). In contrast to later Hunters, the early Cherubini-designed models were conservative and conventional in design. The longer sister models-the 33 and 37-were, in our opinion, good-looking boats, moderately styled, with an attractive bow line and sheer, and a pleasing coachroof. The smaller boats, the 25 and 27, instead traded in some styling characteristics in order to pack a lot of room into a short waterline, which left them with higher-sided with boxier cabinhouses.
The 30 lies somewhere in between-handsome from some angles but a bit too flat in the sheer and high in the cabintop to impress traditionalists. Still, most of those traditionalists would consider it a much more attractive boat than the modern Euro-styled Hunters.
The 30s hull is very full-to maximize interior space-but otherwise, its quite typical of the racer-cruisers of the 1970s. Overall, the boat is 29 feet, 11 inches long-the maximum allowable length under the then-popular Midget Ocean Racing Club (MORC) rule. The short overhangs result in a long waterline, fundamental for sailing speed. The beam, at just a hair over 10 feet, is moderate by 1970s standards, but narrow in comparison to the big 30-footers that have appeared since. The Catalina 30, for example, is nine inches wider, and many current boats carry a foot more beam (and carry it further aft) than the Hunter 30.
A conventional fin keel, drawing 5 feet, 3 inches, was standard, with a 4-foot shoal keel as an option. We test-sailed the deep-keel version, and suspect it is much to be preferred, unless you absolutely need the shallower draft. Company literature lists the displacement and ballast as identical on both models. That would make the shallow-keel version more tender, requiring crew to reef early as the wind pipes up.
The foredeck is on the smaller side for anchor work and sail handling because the cabinhouse extends quite far forward. The 1978 and later models have an anchor well built into the foredeck that is self-contained and large enough to hold over 400 feet of rode, or enough for two anchors. The test boat we sailed had a furling jib, a desirable option in view of the smallish foredeck.
A significant shortcoming of the boats design is the narrow sidedecks. The wide cabinhouse makes it clear that the designers top priority was interior room, with deck work being a distant consideration. Its near impossible to get past the chainplates, especially on the leeward side when under a press of canvas, without climbing atop the cabinhouse.
The boat has a good cockpit, a bit smaller than some other 30-footers (again, a result of maximizing cabin space). A wheel was standard on the boat; its small, which is good for moving around the cockpit, but less than ideal for helming, in our opinion
A T cockpit became standard following the 1980 models, and some people preferred that arrangement; however, you could lie down on the older bench seats, and you can’t with the T. The bench seats would benefit from some sort of drain arrangement since they trap water. A deep lazarette behind the cockpit offers additional on-deck storage.
A peculiarity of the decks on the early Hunters is that the nonskid pattern was not molded in as is customary on fiberglass decks. Instead, a nonskid aggregate was painted on. Given the age of the Hunter 30, the original aggregate is likely long gone, and owners have had to apply fresh nonskid paint or nonskid mat. Fortunately, such a repair is straightforward and an easy (although time-consuming), do-it-yourself project (see PS August 2008 and November 2013 online).
On the boats we examined, there was minimal sail-handling equipment on deck-one pair of jib-sheet winches, a small halyard winch for the jib, no winch for the main halyard, no Cunningham or vang, no control lines on the traveler, no flattening reef, a single jiffy reef block, two jib lead blocks out on the toerail, and no backstay adjuster. However, most H30 owners have added deck gear over the years, including a running backstay, so what youll find on Hunter 30s today will run the gamut. A large number of Hunter 30 owners who responded to our survey reported that their boat was rigged for singlehanding, making it easy to sail with a short- or single-handed crew.
The original Hunter 30 owners manual was a great example of a good, clear, simple manual. It has always amazed us how many other boat builders provide the buyer with little or no printed information. If you happen to own or buy a Hunter 30 (or pretty much any older Hunter model) thats missing its manual, simply download the PDF of the original from the Hunter-Marlow website.
courtesy of Kasi McCain
The 30s interior was a strong selling point for the Hunter 30. Almost every owner that responded to our survey commented on the size of the boats interior-often relative to low price-when talking about their reasons for buying the 30.
The interior is well laid out, but plain. Theres a lot here for the money, however. Some of the original details could use changing-the alcohol stove, lack of vents, and small water tank-and many owners have upgraded or modified these systems.
The Hunter 30s layout is conventional, with a good V-berth forward, then a head with small hanging locker opposite, settee berths on each side of the saloon with a double, a drop-leaf table in the middle, an L-shaped galley, with the sink underneath the companionway, and a quarter berth, with a small chart table at its head. The berths are of good size, and on some boats, the port settee can convert to a double berth.
The head area is roomy with enough space for comfortable showering and a door for privacy. The interior also offers lots of storage for a boat this size: The hanging locker can accommodate plenty of clothes and has an overhead shelf; and there are three large storage lockers in the V-berth, plus a host of drawers and under-seat storage in the saloon.
The icebox on the boat we looked at had minimal insulation and would benefit from several more inches all around. Many owners reported having upgraded with icebox conversion kits.
The deckhouse is high and wide, and this gives a look of spaciousness below. The white hull liner overhead helps offset the extensive teak veneer on the bulkheads, ceilings, sole, and furniture.
There are adequate ports and hatches to allow in enough light. The opening portlights-Hunter was one of the first production boats to offer numerous opening ports as standard-offer good ventilation. If youre considering buying a Hunter 30 that has not had any ventilation upgrades, you will probably want to add some Dorades or solar vents to keep the air moving when the ports and hatches must be closed.
The finish downbelow is typical of low-cost production boats, which depend on pre-fab components that can be rapidly installed in the hull. In our owner surveys, there were a great many complaints about the original joinerwork, door hinges, and hardware. The original cabin sole was made of teak veneer, so in instances of water damage, it often cannot be repaired but must be replaced.
For the first four years of the Hunter 30s production, a 12-horsepower Yanmar diesel was standard. After 1978, standard power was a 15-horsepower Yanmar, followed by an 18-horsepower Yanmar.
The 12 was a particularly noisy engine; the later models were less so. Most of the owners who completed our survey thought the engines were minimal for powering the boat, especially in any kind of head seas; however, by traditional standards, even the 12-horsepower model should be adequate for the weight and length of the boat. Although the 12 is highly praised for its reliability, many people will find the later Hunter 30s to be more desirable because of their larger, smoother-running engines.
Engine accessibility was criticized by almost all of the owners who completed our survey. Access is awful, said one. You must be a left-handed midget to work on this engine.
We thought accessibility was far from ideal, but not excessively bad for this size boat. With a big interior and a small cockpit, its hard to stuff an engine under the cockpit sole without cramping.
The Hunter 30 we sailed (with a Yanmar 12) was well behaved under power; it backed nicely, turned crisply, and drove through strong winds (in protected water) with no problem. Our impression was that the engines vibration and noise were more of a concern than its power. Anyone buying the boat with the Yanmar 12 will probably want to spend the time to get perfect alignment. Wed also look closely at the engine mounts and the shaft-strut mounting.
Some owners have re-powered their boats, usually opting for a Yanmar 2QM15 or Yanmar 2GM20F diesel with good results. A two-blade solid prop was standard, but a number of owners refitted the boat with a three-blade solid prop to improve powering. We doubt if the gain would offset the loss in sailing ability.
Theres a full skeg ahead of the rudder. If you have to remove the propeller shaft for some reason, youll have to remove the engine first, or tear the skeg off. On the shoal-draft version, the skeg also is something of a grounding vulnerability as the rudder is about as deep as the foot of the keel.
We were pleasantly surprised by the sailing performance of the Hunter 30. We sailed one in a long, triangular race-two triangles, then windward-leeward-windward legs-in heavy air, a little over 20 knots at the start.
Considering that the test boat had almost no sail controls and old sails, and that the underbody was rough and a bit weedy, the boat moved very well, going to weather respectably in a serious racing fleet, and reaching and running competitively.
The jib we used was the 130-percent genoa on roller furling, and this was about right for the boat in those conditions. When the wind faded near the end of race, the boat was clearly under-canvassed.
The boat is slightly under-rigged with its short mast. To sail well in light air, especially with the solid prop that most 30s have, a sizeable genoa is required. One Florida Panhandle-based owner reports that she sails with a 155 or 170 genoa, both of which are ideal in light winds and can be reefed with furling if the wind picks up. This boat sails nicely and does better in higher winds than light wind. …. It responds very quickly when tacking and can almost sail itself in steady winds, she explained.
We agree: The 30 is a good sailing boat, responsive and easy to steer. Its PHRF rating of 186 (New England fleet) would probably be very favorable. If the boat were rigged with a full complement of sail-handling gear and modern sails, it should be able to stay with other 30-footers of the same era, such as the Pearson 30, Catalina 30 (not the tall rig), and ODay 30. Since sailing is what sailing is all about, our opinion of the Hunter 30 was improved dramatically when we took a first in the races main-and-jib class.
Conclusions
The Hunter 30 was a boat built to a price point-to appeal to the sailor who wanted a lot of boat at an affordable price.
As long as a buyer understands that, not expecting custom quality at barnyard prices, the Hunter 30 can be a good value in a used boat. Many on the used market today have been repowered and had systems upgrades added like refrigeration. Be sure to look for delamination issues, check the nonskid, and examine the cabinhouse around the mast for sagging, as many of these Hunters have had compression post issues.
Its easy to pay too much for a used boat these days, but for a good-condition, roomy coastal cruiser that can make a good showing around the buoys, the Hunter 30 can be had at a decent price-a lot of cruisability for minimal investment. Youll find Hunter 30s on the used-boat market to be priced about the same as comparable boats (Catalina 30 and Pearson 30), with an average pricetag of about $13,500.
Pros -Many have been re-rigged for easy singlehanding from the cockpit -Roomy cockpit for a 30-footer -Minimal topside brightwork -Sizeable anchor well on deck -Many have been upgraded to furling headsails -Handholds run the full length of cabin
Cons -Limited foredeck space -Very narrow sidedecks -Standard, original ventilation was lacking, needs upgrades -Pre-1980 bench seats trap water, need drain added
Hunter Marine built the 30 with an aim to maximize interior space. 1. The galley came standard with an alcohol stove, a deep ice box, and a small sink; many owners have updated the cooktop and added some type of refrigeration. The sink is too small to effectively wash dishes. 2. The settees offer full-length berths. 3. The H30 fits a fair bit of interior storage in a small space, including drawers behind and under the settees. 4. The V-berth has additional storage under the bed, which is large enough to comfortably sleep two (friendly) adults. 5. A very small nav desk and a full-length quarter berth are situated to port of the companionway. Electronics can be mounted inside the companionway.
In construction, the Hunter 30 is very conventional—an economical, solid-glass layup in the hull and a balsa-cored deck with plywood for backing under cleats. A conventional flange, with a through-bolted aluminum toerail joins the hull and deck together. The basic construction is quite a contrast to that of present-day Hunters, which can generally be described as highly engineered and Euro-styled, at the opposite end of the spectrum from the early Hunters like the 30.
Testers’ opinion of the fiberglass work was that it was good but a little light—marginal for offshore sailing but strong enough for typical coastal cruising.
On one of the Hunter 30s we looked at, there was extensive delamination of the cockpit sole and the bench seats. There also were signs of sloppy glass work—ragged edges and un-resinated glass—in compartments and other out-of-sight places.
Quality-control problems also were cited by a surprisingly high number of the Hunter 30 owners we surveyed for this article. The problems often mentioned included improperly hooked-up fuel-return lines, chafed hoses, leaking ports, poorly fitted hatch boards and lazarette covers, improperly installed exhaust systems, and so on.
The Hunter 30 compares favorably, in price and performance, to other production boats in the same size range and of similar vintage.
- Marlow-Hunter
- Hunter Owners Group
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Great review and enlightening! Thanks for your knowledge!
Great coverage on the 30! I owned a Hunter 30 1994-2000. Live aboard at Harbor Island San Diego. Very nice experience. Yes, the Yanmar 15 was a bit noisy. I thought For a while there was mechanical issues but Found out it was it’s nature.
Good article. I bought a 1977 Hunter 30, and it does sail surprisingly well for a older production boat. The engine works okay but is a bit noisy. It will soon be for sail as my daughter is the sailor and moved overseas for college.
Almost 40 years in my 1978 27 ft. Your comments were all on the mark. The original 8 hp gave out after 30 years and repowered with the 15 hp and replace the packing stuffing box with seal. Replaced the ports in the head and vee. For the time available I had to sail it worked out well. Fifteen years on Great Lakes and 22 plus in FL.
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Review of Islander 30
Basic specs..
The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.
The boat equipped with a masthead rig. The advantage of a masthead rig is its simplicity and the fact that a given sail area - compared with a fractional rig - can be carried lower and thus with less heeling moment.
The Islander 30 is equipped with a long keel. A full keel provide a better directional stability than a similar boat with a fin keel; on the other hand, better directional stability means also that the boat is more difficult to handle in a harbour with less space.
The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.12 - 1.22 meter (3.67 - 3.97 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.
The boat is typically equipped with an inboard Universal Atomic 4 gasoline engine at 30 hp (22 kW). Calculated max speed is about 6.8 knots
Sailing characteristics
This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.
What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?
The capsize screening value for Islander 30 is 1.74, indicating that this boat could - if evaluated by this formula alone - be accepted to participate in ocean races.
What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?
The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.5 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.
The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Islander 30 is about 128 kg/cm, alternatively 717 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 128 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 717 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.
Sailing statistics
This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.
What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?
What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?
What is a Ballast Ratio?
What is Displacement Length Ratio?
What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?
Maintenance
When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 14m 2 (150 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.
Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale
If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.
| Usage | Length | Diameter | ||
| Mainsail halyard | 23.0 m | (75.5 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Jib/genoa halyard | 23.0 m | (75.5 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Spinnaker halyard | 23.0 m | (75.5 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Jib sheet | 9.0 m | (29.6 feet) | 12 mm | (1/2 inch) |
| Genoa sheet | 9.0 m | (29.6 feet) | 12 mm | (1/2 inch) |
| Mainsheet | 22.5 m | (74.0 feet) | 12 mm | (1/2 inch) |
| Spinnaker sheet | 19.8 m | (65.1 feet) | 12 mm | (1/2 inch) |
| Cunningham | 3.8 m | (12.5 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Kickingstrap | 7.6 m | (25.0 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
| Clew-outhaul | 7.6 m | (25.0 feet) | 10 mm | (3/8 inch) |
This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.
Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.
We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Islander 30 it would be a great help.
If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.
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O'Day 30...Good Bad or Ugly
- Thread starter FlyboyTR
- Start date Oct 20, 2016
- Oday Owner Forums
- Ask An Oday Owner
Hello, We are considering the purchase of an 82 O'Day 30 (centerboard version). The original motor was replaced in 98 with a 24 hp Yanmar and 3 blade prop. Unfortunately, the boat is not local and I will have to travel to look at it. To my current knowledge, this is the only major refit on the boat. I am a lifelong power boater that in the last year got involved in sailing. I was drawn to this boat because of its size, apparent condition, engine upgrade and the 3.5' draft (centerboard up) which is a requirement to be able to get the boat to our dock! In reading and trying to learn...some people say the boat is junk, sails like a dog and other sing its praises. I understand the "opinion factor" because we have a Macgregor 26-s (classic...pure sailboat, not the powerboat thing) and I am amazed at the endless negative comments...none of which we have found to be valid. So...I do understand... Regardless, my sailboat knowledge is limited , I know nothing about an O'day, so any guidance in what to look for, places to inspect, etc, etc. Would be greatly appreciated.
O'Days have a good reputation in general as a quality production line boat. I personally like the concept of the short fixed keel/ centerboard combo. It allows for a boat to maintain stability and pointing ability with the benefits of a shallow draft. This comes at the expense of added ballast weight (around 500-600 lbs.)to compensate for the loss of turning arm force that a longer fixed keel would offer when the boat is heeled. The centerboard may also require additional maintenance from time to time. I will defer to O'Day owners as far as things to look at and how does the boat actually sail. It might be a bit more tender but I would not anticipate any major sailing drawbacks from the design.
Benny17441 said: O'Days have a good reputation in general as a quality production line boat. I personally like the concept of the short fixed keel/ centerboard combo. It allows for a boat to maintain stability and pointing ability with the benefits of a shallow draft. This comes at the expense of added ballast weight (around 500-600 lbs.)to compensate for the loss of turning arm force that a longer fixed keel would offer when the boat is heeled. The centerboard may also require additional maintenance from time to time. I will defer to O'Day owners as far as things to look at and how does the boat actually sail. It might be a bit more tender but I would not anticipate any major sailing drawbacks from the design. Click to expand
For someone relatively new to sailing and not racing, the O'day 30 (or indeed ANY production boat) will sail fine. Of much more importance to your overall happiness with the boat will be its condition. It's a 35 year old boat, and has systems that you're not used to on your Mac. And they get old, and sometime fail. Also, Oday's have a deserved reputation of bulkhead/chainplate weakness due to water ingress, so look hard at that. And at wet decks in general. Nobody wants to speed their first year with the boat replacing soggy wood.
I've sailed an 80's O'Day 27 a few years back that was in our charter fleet. A nice boat, handled well, a bit tender but nothing outrageous. Find a competent surveyor in the area and have him/her do a thorough going over. Nothing wrong with an older production boat that has been well maintained and at a reasonable price. Good luck.
First, does it please your eyes? I love the lines of most o'days. They are well made boats designed for coastal cruising with just the right amount of exterior and interior teak. Unlike some other makes, they do not have any kind of archelles heal other than i think the 302 which can have keel stub issues. All good old boats may have wet decks or chain plates from water ingress. Some areas of wet decks should not be a deal breaker. If the boat has been well maintained then she may be worth a survey.
Barnacle Phil
I've had a 1982 O'day 30 for about 9 months and I really enjoy it. I'm not a racer by any means and like the way she handles. There were two items that were redone on my boat before purchase. The engine and also the binnacle was reinforced due to some water damage. The next area of concern that I discovered was the head. "Might as well just get a new one," I've been told. I will eventually replace all the wiring so it makes sense and the old bilge hoses so they don't look so ugly. The exterior handles occasionally will drip a bit through a couple of the screws and require a good butyl or the like. Also, the mast needs a good wrapping to keep out the drips. None of these except the binnacle are really drastic, but the survey is likely to show you some of the items mentioned. If you haven't gone to the O'day owners site, try this link and read all the comments. http://oday.sailboatowners.com/reviews.php?mid=123&model=30
Barnacle Phil said: I've had a 1982 O'day 30 for about 9 months and I really enjoy it. I'm not a racer by any means and like the way she handles. There were two items that were redone on my boat before purchase. The engine and also the binnacle was reinforced due to some water damage. The next area of concern that I discovered was the head. "Might as well just get a new one," I've been told. I will eventually replace all the wiring so it makes sense and the old bilge hoses so they don't look so ugly. The exterior handles occasionally will drip a bit through a couple of the screws and require a good butyl or the like. Also, the mast needs a good wrapping to keep out the drips. None of these except the binnacle are really drastic, but the survey is likely to show you some of the items mentioned. If you haven't gone to the O'day owners site, try this link and read all the comments. http://oday.sailboatowners.com/reviews.php?mid=123&model=30 Click to expand
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:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc():format(webp)/jen-affleck-zac-affleck-ben-affleck-092724-5ae4f718246f4c5fbbaf15609ed51043.jpg "us 30 sailboat review")
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The hull for both the BUCCANEER 295 and US 30 are, in part, based on an earlier Peterson 1/2 ton design though Peterson had no role in the production of any of these subsequent boats nor were royalties paid. (The sailboat division of Bayliner took the practice of reusing the tooling from defunct builders to […]
LOA 29" 11" LWL 25" beam 10" 3" displacement 7000 pounds ballast 2850 sail area 381 sq. feet, headroom 6" 2" J 12" boom 9.17 so big headsail small main, big chute and pole, okay for a Wednesday night race boat and cruiser for two, but not up to the standards of a more moderate displacement boat as a heavy weather cruiser and they have some bad ...
US Yachts US 30 ... The US Yachts US 30 is an American sailboat that was designed by Doug Peterson and Daryl Watson and first built in 1979. [1] [2] The design is an unauthorized development of Peterson's International Offshore Rule Half Ton class Chaser 29 racer, using the same hull design, but with no royalties paid.
US 30 is a 29′ 11″ / 9.1 m monohull sailboat designed by Douglas Peterson/Daryl Watson and built by Bayliner (Buccaneer/US Yachts) between 1979 and 1983.
J/Boats is the world leader in high-performance sailboats- designed for cruising, day sailing, offshore racing, one-design racing.
The Us 30 has been built with more than one type of keel. One option is a finn keel. The finn keel is the most common keel and provides splendid manoeuvrability. The downside is that it has less directional stability than a long keel. The boat can enter most marinas as the draft is just about 1.68 - 1.78 meter (5.51 - 5.81 ft) dependent on the ...
The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Us 30 is about 159 kg/cm, alternatively 891 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 159 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 891 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.
J/30 Used Boat Review. In the late seventies opportunity knocked at boat builders' doors. It was calling for an offshore one-design boat that would offer high performance at an affordable price. Most major manufacturers of the day heeded the call. C & C Yachts introduced the Mega 30. Tartan Marine offered the Tartan Ten.
J/Boats is the world leader in high-performance sailboats- designed for cruising, day sailing, offshore racing, one-design racing.
Punching the tide down the harbour was made easy by the new 20hp Yanmar 3YM, which gave us a comfortable 5 knots over the ground and 6 knots or more through the water. As we went, Paul explained that the boat was in heavy-displacement mode, carrying 200 litres of water and 90 litres of fuel ready for an imminent cruise to France.
J-30''s are easier to handle than many of the ''brute strength race boats'' that are out there and for casual racing you might get by with the two of you as long as you are willing to pick the right sail for the conditions meaning stepping down to a #2 or # 3 when things pick up. In many ways a Laser 28 would be a good boat in the light air ...
sail sfbay . Feb 21, 2013 4,638 Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA Jul 24, 2021 #3 Looks like a nice sailboat. Specs: Seafarer 30 - Wikipedia and SailboatData.com - SEAFARER 30 Sailboat Might read this thread: Seafarer 30 | SailNet Community
Under such conditions, good sail control hardware—vang, traveler, reefing, adjustable backstay, etc—is important. Under PHRF the Tartan 30 typically has a base rating of 170 to 180, rating faster in areas with heavier winds. In fact, in some quarters the Tartan 30 is regarded as the archetypal PHRF competitor.
Sail World - The world's largest sailing news network; sail and sailing, cruising, boating news ... The First 30 offers everything one just needs: a comfortable saloon with 1.85 m (6.0 ft) headroom, a proper, functional galley with gimballed stove and fridge, a marine head, above the standard sized front cabin and a decently sized aft cabin ...
At least 30 decomposing bodies have been found on a boat off the coast of Senegal, military authorities say. The navy was informed of a vessel that was adrift about 70km (45 miles) from the ...
The first O'Day 30 we saw back in 1977 was named Moby Dick. Compared to most of the boats in our boatyard, she did look a lot like a great white whale: beamy white hull with high topsides, white deck, white cabin trunk, and not much exterior wood trim. But what really struck us about the boat was the amount of interior volume. The boat had as much interior space as most 34-footers built at ...
The Hunter 30. Designed by John Cherubini and built from 1974 to 1983, the Hunter 30 is a coastal cruiser that was designed to offer a lot of boat for little money. With a focus on streamlining construction to boost production volume, Hunter aimed to offer an affordable coastal racer-cruiser.
Specifications and Review of Islander 30 based on the boat's specifications and artificial intelligense.
A capsized boat washes ashore as Hurricane Helene churns offshore in St. Petersburg, Florida, on September 26. ... the models show us that 20 feet storm surge will push water 20 miles from the ...
Overview. The 208CC was one of EdgeWater's first and most successful center-consoles. Still popular and one of the strongest fishing boats in its class, EdgeWater's designers decided it was time to update it to modern expectations with cutting-edge construction techniques, seriously competitive fishing features, and family cruising comforts previously not present or valued with the ...
I personally doubt that you will much enjoy sailing west to east in the Caribbean on a beamy, 30-ft boat built for the Newport to Catalina run across a 26 n.mi. channel. Boats sailing the Caribbean these days tend to be nearer 40 ft, often larger. The trip you are contemplating requires gear, even if "harbor hopping.".
May 24, 2004. 7,137. CC 30 South Florida. Oct 20, 2016. #2. O'Days have a good reputation in general as a quality production line boat. I personally like the concept of the short fixed keel/ centerboard combo. It allows for a boat to maintain stability and pointing ability with the benefits of a shallow draft.
Re: Advice on a Rawson 30. Ours built in 1966 was solid deck but thin on the foredeck. We actually laminated up a deck beam to place under the tail of the bowsprit and windlass because the foredeck was so thin. Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum.
In my opinion, the Fisher 30 (or other Fisher boats) would be fine in the Mediterranean as far as being able to take it, and for coastal cruising too. This assumes the boat is well maintained, the captain knows to avoid very bad weather, and the captain is prudent in navigating. 1.
I'm getting ready to purchase a 25' US Yacht for $2500, but I recently read that they are built from the molds once used for Bayliner boats. Apparently Bayliner sold the design to Pearson, who built a few boats and then they sold it to US Yacht who used it for a few years in the early 80's. The boat I'm looking at seems pretty decent, and has ...
Lana Del Rey and alligator tour guide Jeremy Dufrene obtained a marriage license on September 23, a Lafourche Parish Clerk of Court confirmed to PEOPLE. They have 30 days to get married
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