Top 8 Best Boat Design Software in 2024 (Free & Paid)
Written by: 3DSourced
January 16, 2024
Whether you’re a student, a hobbyist, or a professional, finding the right software is the key first step to designing a boat. However, with such a wide range of programs available, you need to make sure you choose the best boat design software for you.
We usually talk about 3D software in relation to 3D printing, but 3D modeling techniques are used across many applications and industries, including boat design. In fact, 3D printing is becoming increasingly prevalent in the boat design industry, with one example being Tanaruz’s 3D printed boats .
Quick Overview
- Free!ship : Best Free Boat Design Software for Linux
- Sailcut CAD : Free Sailboat Design Software
- Bearboat SP : Free Boat Designer for Small Boats & Kayaks
- DELFTship : Intuitive Free Boat Design Tool with Professional Option
- Fusion 360 : Best Free Boat Design Software for Beginners & Mac
- SketchUp : Best Boat Design App for iPad
- Autoship : Best for Naval & Marine Architecture, Best for Windows
- Solidworks : Best for Aluminum Boat Design Software & Best for Yachts
In this guide, we review several 3D ship design software to help you do just that. We’ll take a close look at both free and professional options, so that you’ll be able to find a suitable program regardless of your budget and experience.
Read more: our feature story on 3D printed boats
Best Free Boat Design Software
1. freeship – best free boat design software for linux.
Completely free and open source
Subdivision modeling to design any hull shape
Can export designs in a range of file formats
Can submit support and feature requests
Positive reviews from users
Can be tricky for novices to get used to
Not available on Mac
Unlike most of the boat building software on our list, Free!ship isn’t developed by a company, but rather by an individual called Marven with a desire to make boat design accessible to anyone.
Free!ship is a surface modeling program for designing ships and yachts, using subdivision surfaces modeling rather than NURBs, providing the freedom to design hulls of any shape.
Available on Windows and Linux, you can get started with this free CAD software by automatically generating a basic boat structure to use as a template. You can then easily use the nodes on the structure, as well as a variety of tools like curve, split, collapse, and insert plane, to reshape the design to your liking.
You need to fill in certain parameters, such as:
- Boat length
- Beam length
- Longitudinal and vertical direction
Once you’ve done that, you can view your boat design in four different perspectives and every angle to help you finalize your structure.
Free!ship offers the option to fill out support requests, feature requests, and report bugs. However, bear in mind that design beginners may be better off with a professional free ship design software that has more support options and tutorials available, as you don’t get any training with Free!ship.
2. Sailcut CAD – Free Sailboat Design Software
Specialist sailboat design software
Easy to use node editing
Supports a variety of sail designs
Export designs in different file types including DXF files
Not suitable for designing other boat types
If you’re looking for a free small boat design software specifically geared towards designing sails and sailboats, you can’t go wrong with Sailcut CAD .
This design and plotting software can be used to design the sail, hull, and rail of a boat, in addition to precisely computing panel development in flat sheets.
You can use it for a variety of different sail types, including wing sails, cross cut, twist foot cut, vertical cut, mitre cut, and radicul cut, so it’s a versatile tool that will suit virtually any sailboat designer.
The software provides a base design template that you can then edit and view in a variety of formats, including shaded, wireframe, and development. It provides control over all the key dimensions of your sailboat, such as boat length, gaff round, and seam width.
Sailcut provides documentation that explains how to use it for CAD as well as community mailing lists and a bug tracker where you can report issues.
3. Bearboat SP – Free Boat Designer for Small Boats & Kayaks
Specialist kayak design software
Simple to use
Control all aspects of your design
Multiple view options
Advanced tools like wetting
Not suitable for larger boat designs
Dated interface
Bearboat SP is a specialist kayak design software that can also be used to design other similar types of small boats.
People have been using Bearboat to design kayaks since 1998 – and it’s the most popular program for this specific type of boat design.
It’s a fairly simple, no-frills software that makes it easy to get stuck straight in. You begin by filling in the core boat hull parameters, such as length, stability, and design deplacement, and then just click the ‘create’ button to generate your base kayak template.
From there, you can go about making structural changes to aspects like shape seam, bow and stern seam height, and rockers parameters. You can also easily change dimensions using the nodes on the 2D wireframe design.
There are three viewing options – bird view, side view, and cross-section view – for inspecting your design from different perspectives, as well as options such as changing the color of the wireframe design for easier analysis.
Advanced features include the ability to view the wetted surface and underwater area, and a drag spreadsheet that contains all the parameters of your boat design, making Bearboat SP a well-rounded boat design tool overall.
4. DELFTship – Intuitive Free Boat Design Tool with Professional Option
More up-to-date and intuitive than other free boat design software tools
Impressive model rendering
Professional license and extension options
Perform basic calculations to check buoyancy and other factors
Free version has limited features compared to paid version
DELFTship is another great free boat design software, and offers a somewhat more professional and up-to-date solution versus Sailcut and Free!ship, with more impressive renderings than other free programs.
This 3D hull form modeling program is very intuitive with a range of easy-to-use design features, including lots of nodes that make it simple to edit your base model just by dragging and dropping.
You can inspect your models from five different viewpoints and convert them to wireframes and other formats to better analyze structure. Features like the keel and rudder wizard make it simple to design additional components of your boat.
DELFTship provides an unlimited free version alongside a professional license that costs $160. You can also add on extensions and board stability analysis calculations upon request for additional fees.
Even without the paid license you can still use DELFTship free to perform basic hydrostatic calculations and resistance calculations to help improve the precision of your designs, making this one of the most impressive free boat design tools.
5. Fusion 360 – Best Free Boat Design Software for Beginners & Mac
More beginner-friendly than other boat design software
Lots of learning resources & tutorials
High quality, flexible 3D modeling tool
Impressive renderings
Available on Mac
Not a specialist boat hull design software
Unlike the other programs we’ve covered so far Fusion 360 is a general purpose 3D modeling software that’s not specifically made for boat designing. However, it’s still widely used in boat designing, and its more general nature has some advantages.
For starters, designing a boat is a fairly large and complex task, and the more specialist software like Free!ship and Bearboat SP are complex if you’re new to computer aided design.
While Fusion 360 still has a learning curve, it’s one of the best designed, intuitive, and beginner-friendly 3D modeling software out there. On top of that, it has a huge range of learning resources and tutorials, great support, and a large user community, so it’s very popular among new designers.
In fact, there are a variety of YouTube videos and written tutorials showing how to use Fusion 360 for boat design and for different types of vessels, including yachts and canoes. These include videos showing how to design wooden boats , so it’s a good choice if you’re looking for a plywood boat design software.
Another benefit of Fusion 360 is that, unlike most naval architecture boat design software, it’s available on Mac. It even has iOS and Android apps that allow you to view designs and collaborate via your smartphone or tablet.
Fusion 360 is also free for three years as long as you’re using it non-commercially.
Best Paid Boat Design Software
6. sketchup – best boat design app for ipad.
- Price : $119 a year for the app (free online version available)
3D modeling iPad app
High quality renderings
Intuitive and beginner-friendly
Free online version available
Not specialized for boat design
SketchUp is another general purpose 3D software used for boat design. While it’s not one of the most widely used boat design programs, the reason it’s on our list is that it’s one of the few premier 3D CAD tools that has a fully-fledged mobile app for iPad.
While some programs like Fusion 360 have viewer apps, these don’t have the modeling tools of their desktop counterparts. However, with the SketchUp iPad app, you can enjoy advanced modeling on a tablet, and you can even get creative using an Apple Pencil stylus.
There are a variety of tutorials and videos showing how to design boats with SketchUp, and as a user-friendly software it’s a good option for beginners. SketchUp also boasts high quality renderings for producing 3D boat designs that you can easily share with anyone.
While the SketchUp boat design app has a yearly fee, you can also use the software for free using the online-only version, or choose from a variety of desktop licenses that vary in terms of features and storage.
SketchUp also offers iPhone and Android apps, although these are more stripped back versions more suited to viewing and sharing designs on your mobile.
7. Autoship – Best for Naval & Marine Architecture, Best for Windows
- Price : upon quote
Large software suite that covers the entire boat design pipeline
Used by professional boat manufacturers
Highly intuitive NURBs modeling
Comprehensive testing features and data management
Extensive training and support
Can be used to create load plans
Not available on Mac
Steep learning curve
Autoship is a software suite designed for professional naval and marine architects that provides solutions for every aspect in the boat design process, from modeling to construction and load planning modules for more optimal loading.
In terms of design, Autoship software offers five different CAD/CAM solutions:
- Autoship Pro – a hull design and surface modeling program.
- Modelmaker – for creating 3D models of vessels and components.
- Autohydro Pro – for analyzing hydrostatics and stability of your models.
- Autoplate – a plate design, expansion, and management system.
- Autopower – for resistance and powering predictions.
So, you can create a package with any number of these programs based on your needs. The great thing about Autoship software is all the programs are fully integrated, so any changes made to your model integrate into each solution.
Autoship Pro is the primary design solution in this suite, with a vast array of advanced features for designing vessels. Based on NURBs modeling, the intuitive interface allows you to work in up to four views simultaneously with ten levels of zoom and unzoom for top precision.
Some of the impressive features of this vessel design software include extensive context menus to help speed up operations, the ability to color surfaces so it’s easy to pick out parts in complex designs, curvature displays for curves and surfaces, hydrostatic and resistance calculations, and strength assessment tools.
Overall, with its mix of powerful design, testing, and engineering features, Autoship is one of the most complete boat design software on the market.
8. Solidworks – Best for Aluminum Boat Design Software & Best for Yachts
- Price : upon quote
Solidworks is one of the most advanced 3D CAD/CAM software out there and is widely used across design and engineering industries, from automotive to aerospace as well as boat design.
In fact, this software is used by a number of leading boat manufacturers. One such example is Kvichak Marine Industries, a Seattle-based maker of high quality aluminum vessels, including both passenger and industrial boats.
In this v i deo , the assistant chief engineer explains how Solidworks’ highly precise 3D modeling tools allow them to improve processes by spotting issues quicker and therefore improve efficiency, with the ability to inspect every element from the individual pipes within hulls to the connections within engines.
Solidworks’ extremely advanced and flexible modeling allows you to create any type of boat you like. There’s even an eBook that explains each step in designing a superyacht using Solidworks.
While this software is mostly used by professional companies, there are also numerous YouTube videos showing you how to design a boat with it, so it’s accessible to amateurs.
What is Boat Design Software?
A boat design software is a program used to sketch, plan, and model a boat in 3D. Popular boat design programs include Free!ship, Solidworks, Fusion 360, and Autoship.
What is naval architecture?
Naval architecture is the processing of designing and engineering marine vessels like ships and boats, as well as their parts. Naval architects also work in boat and ship repair.
Do I need special software for designing boats?
You don’t need a special boat design software to design boats and ships. While there are a number of specialist boat design software tools out there, general 3D modeling CAD programs like Fusion 360 and AutoCAD are also used for this purpose.
What Can You Do With Boat Software?
All boat software have different features that determine what you can do with them. For example, certain programs are designed for creating certain types of boats, such as kayaks and sailboats, so this is the first consideration you need to make to find a suitable program.
More expensive programs typically offer a much wider range of features than paid versions. At the top end are industrial solutions like Autoship and Solidworks, which offer extremely high quality and flexible modeling tools and provide support for testing, manufacturing, and engineering processes, so they’re complete solutions.
There are also software like DELFTship and Fusion 360 that provide both free and paid versions, so you can try out the free versions and then upgrade if you want the extra features available on the paid licenses.
Buying Guide – Things to consider when choosing boat software
Type of Boat
Boats come in all different shapes and sizes, and some software are specially built for designing certain types of boats. For example, Bearboat SP is primarily geared towards kayak designing, while Sailcut is for sailboats.
On the other hand, general 3D modeling software like Fusion 360 and Solidworks are more flexible, so you could use it as a Yacht design software and for other types of boats. The benefits of this are the increased flexibility and beginner-friendliness, but these general programs can lack some of the more specialist features that the likes of Bearboat SP and Sailcut have.
Compatibility
The device you’re using is going to have an impact on what naval architecture software you use, as most programs only work on certain operating systems.
In fact, the majority of boat design software are only compatible with Windows. If you’re looking for a boat design software for Mac, Linux, or iPad, you may be best off using a more general purpose 3D modeling software like Fusion 360 or SketchUp.
3D Rendering & Graphic Quality
Free programs like Free!ship, Sailcut, and Bearboat SP are all great for creating precise boat designs at no expense, but in terms of graphics and 3D model rendering, they’re all very basic.
This isn’t unusual when it comes to free programs, and if you’re not bothered about graphics then it’s no issue. However, if you do want to create higher quality models and renderings – which is especially important if you’re a student or aspiring professional boat designer – then you’ll need a program that provides this, such as Solidworks or Autoship.
Usability & Training
Boat design isn’t exactly a simple process, so if you’re a complete beginner, you’ll want a software that’s easier to get to grips with.
The free boat design software we’ve covered are all fairly simple to use, but the level of intuitiveness and support varies. If you’re a complete newbie to computer design, you may want to go for a widely used modeling software like SketchUp or Fusion 360, both of which boast great support, large communities, and more tutorials than specialist boat structural design software.
Budget & Free Trial
The price of boat design software can vary a lot, from free programs to expensive professional solutions like Solidworks and Autoship that can cost thousands, so bear this in mind. Many paid boat design software offer free trials, so you should definitely take advantage of this to try a program out.
What software is best for basic boat design?
Free!ship, Delftship, and Sailcut are all popular free software that allow you to create basic boat designs.
How do you design a yacht?
If you want to design yachts, the first step is to find a high quality yacht designing software such as Solidworks or Autoship.
How do you become a boat architect / ship designer?
To be a boat architect or ship designer you need to first obtain a relevant degree, such as a BEng or MEng in naval architecture.
How much do yacht architects make?
Yacht and naval architects can make anywhere from $60,000 to $150,000 depending on their experience and position, with the average salary around $75,000.
Autoship, Solidworks, Maxsurf, and OrcaFlex are all popular marine design software that are used in professional ship design.
To become a boat designer you first need a degree in a relevant subject, such as naval architecture, ship science, or marine technology.
The best way to learn how to make a boat hull in Solidworks is by watching one the boast hull design tutorial provided by Solidworks Product Manager Mark Biasotti.
The first step to designing a yacht is finding a suitable CAD software, such as Solidworks or Fusion 360.
Lightning CAD Dock Designer is one of the most popular boat dock design software.
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Model Boats and Ships
Learn how to build model boats and ships from plans or kits - static or radio controlled - sailing or electric power..
- Are you intrigued by building model boats, but don't know how to get started?
- Are model ship plans nothing but a bunch of lines to you?
- Perhaps you are looking for plans for your next project?
- Or maybe you're looking for a new hobby to help you wind down after a busy day?
If this sounds like you, you've come to the right place.
This website is where I share tips and tricks I’ve picked up in this hobby for the last 25 or so years. It’s not rocket science, but sometimes the wheel gets reinvented one too many times in this hobby.
I do admire those that can spend several years, adding detail after detail on a single model. I truly envy the patience they possess and, more importantly: the time they have available!
Most of the techniques I use are time-saving ways to fast-forward through mundane and time consuming tasks. Because, let's face it - there are only so many hours in a day...
Little by little I'm building up a small catalog of plans for download. First out is the civil war era USS Monitor and her nemesis - the CSS Virginia . As time permits, I'll add more plans.
Current projects include a balsa PT 109 and a number of other model ship plans. Waiting in the wings are ironclads, pirate ships, torpedo boats, battleships, tugs, destroyers, a New York pilot schooner and many other.
OK, enough talk, let's build something. And don't forget to have fun doing it!
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Racing Sparrow Plans
Check out these plans and resources, ranging from a 375mm boat to a 1500mm yacht. Pair these with our eBook guide for a fast, easy, and affordable home build RC yacht.
RS-RG65 - 650mm plans, measures to international RG65 rules
A full forward hull and a straight stern. This boat has proven to be a very fast and competitive racer.
Free Book Sample - PDF
A few pages from the eBook absolutely free
Racing Sparrow 750 plans
The plans that come with the eBook.
Racing Sparrow 1000 plans
A one metre version, scaled up lines. Bulkhead only plans. Look at the 750 for full schematics.
Racing Sparrow 1500 plans - A scaled up Racing Sparrow
A larger size model yacht. I haven't seen many of these surface. It's a good challenge to build.
Racing Sparrow 375 plans - The smallest sparrow
A miniature RacingSparrow. A great introduction to building with balsa.
RacingSparrow Footy plans
A double diagonal design footy from RacingSparrow.
Logos & Sticker Sheet
Downloadable logos and an EPS file to be sent to a printer and printed out on navy blue cutout vinyl.
Common questions about the plans
What tools do i need to build a racingsparrow.
1. Chisel 2. Craft-knife 3. Drill Bit - 2mm (5/64in)bit 4. Drill Bit - 5mm (3/16in) bit 5. Electric Drill 6. Felt Marker 7. File 8. Hacksaw 9. Hammer 10. Hole Punch 11. Lighter 12. Pen 13. Pencil 14. Pins 15. Pliers 16. Ruler (steel) 17. Sanding Block 18. Scissors 19. Screwdriver 20. Spirit Level (optional) 21. Sponge Brush (several) 22. Vice Grips
Do I need the eBook to build this cool rc sailboat?
No you don't. The book is designed for the newcomer to model yacht building. The book does make it a much simpler process with every detail figured out and covered in the book. Seasoned builders can simply have a go with the free plans.
Are the plans really free?
Yes all the plans are free to download and use as you see fit. The most comprehensive plans are the RS750 A1 full size.
Are there CAD files or 3D files?
Yes there is a 3D dxf file inside a zip file that you can download for free and use how you want. Some people use this in CAD programs or in 3D modelling programmes to great effect. Look under Racing Sparrow 750 plans on this page. An STL file for 3D printing is in the pipelines. Email me if you want a copy.
While we think 3D printing is great, we believe old-skool strip planking balsa is a wonderfully simple way to make a very lightweight boat with excellent longitudinal strength and beauty.
Builders eBook
Dive into the world of boat building with our eBook. Discover the craft of hull planking, fibreglass strengthening, and lead keel ballast casting.
Master the art of electrics installation, spray painting, sail making, and tuning of sails. Download a sample today and embark on a rewarding journey of boat construction.
What the builders and sailors say:
Being a complete novice, I purchased your book a couple of years ago and built two racing sparrows. Building on this experience I then went on to build, from scratch, an IOM (Triple Crown design). I've since joined a local club and sail virtually every weekend. I would just like to thank you for your endeavours which have allowed me to enter a world I never thought was in my reach.
John Sterland, Australia
Coming upon your book, "Build your own Radio Controlled Yacht" in the Napier Public Library, I am hugely impressed. The combination of your superb photos and illustrations with your easy writing style make it a standout publication and I hope it does well for you.
Richard Spence, New Zealand
Thanks for an excellent design in your RG65. I trialled her again today in a solid 20 knots gusting higher. Even so in a steep chop and fingers off the rudder she drove upwind remarkably well, balanced perfectly. Very impressed that a model boat can handle that with a large rig. I found the book excellent. Ive built several big boats, plus a few skiffs and without that resource building such a good boat would have been impossible.
Mike Bennett
Look at all these cool boats folk have made at home
There is also a full gallery with a boat load of photos of Racing Sparrow's
Racing Sparrow #3 - rigging , Auckland, New Zealand
Apr 1, 2004
A 650 build
Apr 1, 2018
Jerry Cashman's RS750 , Canberra, Australia
Nov 26, 2022
Hello! Here a couple of pix of my Sparrow. She’s been finished for a year or so now but the lockdowns has kept her out of the water largely.
She’s a beaut. Sails beautifully on just the lightest air. Thanks for the design!
John Goodyear with his RacingSparrow 750 , United Kingdom
Nov 27, 2010
Andrew Scott - RS1000 , Ayrshire, Scotland
Jun 9, 2010
Royal Declerk's cool Multi-Hull , Australia
Jun 11, 2015
Dear Bryn, I felt I had to tell you, my beautiful 75, "Jack Sparrow" got away from me due to a radio malfunction and sailed off into the distance across Port Phillip bay to be not heard of again, probably on its way to China?? so have made three land yachts for the grandchildren, sail them at Sandy Point ( Gippsland)
My latest model is a foiling catamaran based on the AC45 (another brilliant NZ design)(very sad to see NZ beaten in the cup) and so "Black Mamba" has evolved.
Yet to do sea trials but if it works as intended will be amazing. Best wishes from Royal Declerck.
Royal Declerk's - RG65(Foxy Lady) Sisters: 650 & 750 , Mount Martha, Victoria, Australia
May 2, 2018
Apr 20, 2020
I bought the racing sparrow book about 18 months ago, didn’t ever think it would take an awful pandemic to prompt me to build it. Now can’t wait to rig and sail it. I opted for flush hatches to run the sheets over the top.
Bradley , Kaiapoi
Dec 29, 2007
Matt - Fly Girl 750
Oct 1, 2014
Footy Plans
Below are several sets of free Footy plans. Our latest addition is the BUG3, a highly successful design from Roger Stollery in the UK. There's also a new version of "Razor" from Bill Hagerup. He claims the "Razor3" is much better than the original "Razor", but I'm leaving the old plans on the website too. Then there's Angus Richardson's "Moonshadow", followed by Mario Stiller's "Papaya III", Bill Hagerup's "Cobra" and Brett McCormack's "Bob About". Some of these designs are relatively simple to build, others are rather complex! (For an even simpler boat, check out visit Wayne Russell's Bottle Yacht web pages (built with a plastic soda bottle!). See also the Articles page for more inspiration. The WoodenBoat store is also carrying Footy plans for two boats now, search for Brando and Presto .
For those interested in building Ranger, the best source is my article in ModelYachting magazine (Spring 2011, No. 163). The six-page article includes a lot of build pics and very nice drawings done by Jim Linville from my rough originals. The magazine has been distributed to AMYA members, and is available for others from the Ship's Store at theamya.org. Given the difficulty of international mailing, etc., I am posting my originals as requested for those who can't get the magazine. They aren't as pretty, but they are what I build from. Designed displacement is 300 grams. I hope you enjoy the boat.
Razor3 is a better-handling boat than the original (which is now rather old) and the plans are more complete. I also think the narrower beam makes it easier to build. Razor3 is the boat I sailed to second place in last month's Euro GP in the UK.
"Since Razor is a few years old, I thought it was time to post a design that reflects my current thinking. This is a set of plans and a couple pics for my Cobra (the prototype for my entry in the Liverpool Challenge in July, 2008.) It's a bit more complex than Razor, but a better performer, too. The plans are to be printed on 8-1/2 by 14 inch paper. The boat is 300 mm long when built to the plan. The other 5 mm is left for you to make a bow piece to round off the nose as in the pics. I'm posting the same plan I used to build my boat, which means the interior layout, electronics, and rig are left to your preference. Interior bulkheads are not required. Please don't email me for more detailed info...there isn't any! You can refer to the many pics on this site for reference on how others have fitted out their boats. Scott Spacie has done extensive testing of this design, and he assures me that it floats. I hope you'll have fun with it."
I call it Razor. It's intended to be easy to build, so it's a chine design, but I don't think its performance will suffer. I expect it to be a stable boat that is stiff enough to carry more sail than my Halfpint. I built the hull you see in 3 hours. I spray glued the plans to some 1/32 balsa sheet and cut out the panels with a scissors. Then I taped the hull together and superglued the seams. It got a bit tricky at the bow when I glued my fingers to the hull.....but all worked out in the end.
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Frank Russell Design
R/c and model yacht design, plans, boats, sails..
The Erebus -10r shape is based on the Ellipsis IOM. The design has the same LCB and waterline as the P6.1, so Phoenix 6 sail plans can be transferred over to the new hull. The hull is more rounded and has more reserve buoyancy above the waterline which will give the hull more lift over waves. The bow profile also has been lifted slightly for the same reason. Hull balance should be excellent. The deck is flat for simplicity and the plans show the same inbuilt mast ram setup I have been using successfully on both my A Class and 6 Metre designs. Any P6 sail plans used may need to be slightly altered. The Erebus sail plans are similar to the P6.1 but have been modified to suit the new deck design.
LOA 1650mm LWL 1200mm BOA 175mm 4.0kg ballast displacement 5.8kg Draught 630mm
After payment is made. I will email you the pdf file. Plan has A3, A4 sheets and a larger sheet with sections designed for laser cutting.
A printed paper plan can be supplied, postage extra.
Phoenix 4 2020 10r Every new design presents a designer with options to consider and directions to go. After a ten year gap from the design of the P3, all 10r’s had adopted the deep keel, light weight approach. Although it did seem to work, I after the P5 I thought that the Phoenix 4 design although fast went in the wrong direction. I always have thought about what I should have done. So this is P4- 2020, with 2020 hindsight is the result.
LOA 1550mm LWL 1250mm BOA 200mm BWL 180mm, 4.2kg ballast on 600mm Draught and P1 to P3, Marblehead style sail plans on a flat deck.
Please ask If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or 3D or printed paper plan, postage extra.
Phoenix 8 – 10r: The Phoenix MK 8 is a larger more powerful boat than the last three Phoenix Mks. The P8 is a return to the simple design, No chines, no raised fore deck and Marblehead rig profiles as used from P1 to P3. This allows simpler light weight construction and fully open soft decks and shared rigs if you have a Marblehead.
LOA: 1650 mm LWL: 1240mm, BOA: 170mm, Draught: 630 – 680mm, Disp 5.7kg, SA: 1.00 m2
After payment is made. I will email you the pdf file.
If you require another format: DXF, or DWG, 2D or 3D or printed paper plan, postage extra.
Phoenix 6.1 – 10r The P6 is a radical departure from previous Phoenix Marks. The hull shape features my latest thinking and has elements from both the P5 and GothiX 10rs. The hull features very narrow overall beam with tumblehome, high Prismatic hull shape and chine at the stern. The P6 1200mm waterline and can be ballasted from 3.8 to 4.0kg ballast.
This is the updated version 2023. If you would like the original P6 plan please specify.
Phoenix 5 – 10r Was designed for more wind and more open water than the P4 with 4kg ballast. With a 1200mm waterline the P5 has excellent light air performance.
Molded hulls are available.
After payment is made. I will email you the pdf file with 6 A4 and 3 A3 sheets.
Phoenix 4 10r Was intended as a narrower lighter version of the very successful P3. Featuring a shorter waterline at 1200mm and lighter weight, with modern deep thin foils.
The P4 is an exceptional light air boat.
After payment is made. I will email you the pdf file with 3 A4 and 3 A3 sheets.
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A Beginners Guide to Model Sailboats and Yachts
A beginner's guide to model sailboats and yachts.
Model sailboat and yacht building is a hobby enjoyed by many people of different skill levels and ages. It is a great hobby to learn about boat design and construction. Ship modeling is the art of creating a scaled-down replica of a historically significant ship. This miniature ship model can be built for different reasons, including education, commemoration, or just aesthetic appreciation. Ship modeling can be a relaxing and rewarding hobby to learn about history or just express one's creativity.
Rigging Tips for Building a Model Ship
Embracing the Serenity of Model Boat Building: A Comprehensive Guide
Scratch Building a Model Ship: Getting Started
Building Model Boats - Introduction to Model Boat Building
Health Benefits of Building Model Yachts Hobby
The History of Ship Modeling
Model ships have been found all around different parts of the world, throughout different points in history. Ship models have been found in Ancient Egypt and Greece, where they were used for military and navigational purposes, as well as offerings to gods. During medieval times, ship models were used to plan and design new vessels. These models were often complex and were used to create detailed plans for ship construction. During the Renaissance period, there was a surge in ship modeling as a hobby. The wealthy would have ship models built to display their wealth and status. These ship models were highly intricate and detailed.
Ships Models- History of Shipping in Miniature
Ship Modeling Through the Ages
Ship Modeling - A New Hobby or An Ancient Tradition?
A Brief History of Ship Modeling
The Top 10 Famous Classic Ships in History
Top 10 Historic Ships of All Time in Maritime World
Choosing a Model and Getting Started
There are so many ship models to choose from and recreate. The model you decide will set the tone for the rest of the build. It's important to gather the right materials for your model ship or yacht . Some materials you may need when building include: Adhesives like white glue or wood glue, compass, ruler, sandpaper, planking screws, planks, scissors, hammer
Setting Sail: Navigating the World of Model Ship Building
What Tools Do I Need For Model Ship Building?
Sailboat Model Building
Planningand Building Scale Models that Sail. Part 1: Implications of Scale and Model Choices
The Essential Tools for Model Building
Inventory and Instructions
Before starting any ship-building project, it is essential to review all the instructions and account for all the necessary materials. Storing your materials in a clear plastic Ziplock bag allows you to easily store all the materials you need. It is extremely crucial that all the instructions are carefully followed. This will result in a properly constructed ship with the best quality build.
Instructions For Assembling The Model Of A Typical Ship's Boat
How to Build Model Ships - Part One
Model Ships - Tips for Beginners
How to Build a Model Ship in 13 Steps
Model Ship Basics A Building Guide
Building the Body
When building your model ship, you want to begin by building the frame and gluing all the specified parts together. When gluing, you want to make sure all the parts are flat and level. Your next step would be to lay the planks for the frame. This involves constructing the external structure, hull frame, and deck plank. You also want to use sandpaper as you go along to ensure the planks are flat against the bulkhead.
Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners
How To Plank The Hull Of A Wooden Model Boat / Ship Part 1: Marking And Measuring Up
Building a Bread-and-Butter Solid Hull Ship Model
Planking the Hull
Beginners Guide To Building A Wooden Model Ship
Painting, Details, and Display
Once all the adhesive has dried, you can start painting your model ship. To create a finished and more realistic look, you can use techniques such as dry brushing and chipping. These techniques can help add texture and depth to your model ship. Many hobbyists choose to display their ship models. A display case can also help protect your model from dust and damage. You can create a themed background to add context and reflect the time period of your ship.
The Best Ways To Display Your Model Ship
ModelShip Display Cases - The Optimal Way To Showcase The Value Of Your Model Ship
How to Paint Model Ship Decks
ModelShip Building: A DIY Guide To Crafting Your Own Miniature Vessel
Painting Models: Advanced Techniques
Additional Information on Ship Modeling
Model Shipwright And Research Group
Lining Off Your Hull for Planking
Scale Ship Modeling - Cleveland Model Boat Club
Scale Ship Modelers Association
The Hobby - Society of Miniature Ship Collectors
Rigging Techniques
Ship Modelers Association - About Us
Connecticut Marine Model Society
Tampa Bay Ship Model Society
Carolina Maritime Model Society
The Model Shipwright
How to build first-class ship models from kits or from scratch using actual ship plans, r boat pirate, r boat pirate is best existing example, of the r-boat racing class, extensively restored, she’s now an exhibit at the center for wooden boats.
Presently owned by The Center for Wooden Boats, and fully restored from 1999 to 2005, R-boat Pirate is the best existing example of the R-class. Constructed in 1926 by Lake Union Dry Dock of Seattle, Washington, from plans by L.E. “Ted” Geary, Pirate embodies the pinnacle of yacht design and construction in the Seattle area in the early 20th century. The sloop won the National Championship in its class in 1929 and has the reputation of being one of the fastest R-boats ever built.
Pacific coast R-boat racing began in Seattle in 1913 when Sir Thomas Lipton donated a lavish silver cup to be the prize for the class. The following year, after defeating would-be American defenders Spray and Defender, Ted Geary’s Sir Tom (so named to honor the cup’s donator) dominated Turenga from Royal Vancouver Yacht Club to capture the cup. Geary and Sir Tom went on to win the Lipton every year until 1928.
In the spring of 1925, yachtsman Don Lee of Los Angeles challenged his son Tommy to win the Pacific Coast Star Championship with the promised prize of a new R-boat. Tommy Lee sailed his Star Satellite to victory at the Pacific Coast Yachting Association (PCYA) regatta in Victoria, British Columbia, and true to his word, Don Lee commissioned Pirate for his son.
On April 10, 1926, R-boat Pirate was christened and launched on Lake Union.
Pirate became the subject of a unique program in 1927 when the Hearst newspapers commissioned Ted Geary to adapt the R-boat design to a scale model for schoolboys to build and race. Regattas using the model R-boats were held at Westlake (now MacArthur) Park in Los Angeles and Seattle’s Green Lake. “Pirate Pond Boats” are still built and raced at The Center for Wooden Boats.
In 1928, Tommy Lee sold Pirate, leading to a long line of owners ending in 1999 when she was donated to The Center for Wooden Boats, which launched a six-year restoration project. Currently, the boat serves as an active, floating exhibition.
After restoration, Pirate was been measured for rating by an official and has been certified to be in-class. The vessel’s calculated minimum displacement under the rule is 10,850 pounds. When weighed on a certified digital scale, the vessel was 10,900 pounds – just 50 pounds overweight after 83 years. This is due to the restoration process keeping true to the original design scantlings.
Quoting from the report “Construction Details – R Class Sloop Pirate” which gives the original as drawn (1925) details along with notes on details, fasteners, and exceptions as found during the restoration process from 1999-2005:
The double-planked hull is 5/8” Burma Teak over 5/16” Western red cedar. The outer layer laps over the interior seams and is set in white lead paste. The planking fasteners are square black-iron boat nails. Each inner plank is back-screwed to the outer skin with two brass #8 x 7/8″ round head slot screws in the bays between the frames.
The majority of the frames are steam-bent white oak that is 1- 3/4” x 1- 7/8″ beveled square to the centerline and gradually tapered from the bilge stringer to the clamp. Every third frame is sawed and doubled white oak, each piece measuring 1″ x 1- 3/4″. In the way of the mast and chain plates, all the frames are the “double-flitch” type. All frames are secured to the clamp with 1/4” black-iron machine screws, with nuts and washers on the interiors. Each frame is boxed into the keel and bolted to sawed teak floor timbers. The primary structural members are two Douglas fir beams that form the keelson (11″deep, sided 11′) and the horn timber. The horn timber (11″ deep, sided 11″) laps onto the keelson, and the joint is strengthened by a long flat knee fastened by long black-iron drifts and lag screws. This joint is stiffened by the teak deadwood and rudder post aft. There is a small teak stem and cambered teak transom. The centerline is rabbeted over the full length to take the planking.
There is a small teak furring piece at the forward end of the ballast keel to fair into the centerline.
The clamp and shelf are continuous pieces of Douglas fir. The shelf is 3/4” thick and edge-fit, measuring 3″ wide at station 5, tapered fore and aft. The shelf is secured to the clamp (4″ x 1- 1/4”) by 1/4” iron machine screws and tapered fore and aft.
The stringers are 34′ long, clear, continuous Douglas fir, as drawn in the original construction plans, that measure 2″ x 4″ at their deepest and taper fore and aft. They are secured to the frames with 1/4” black-iron machine bolts with square nuts.
The mast step is teak and was sawed and built true to the construction plan, fastened with transverse 5/16″ iron carriage bolts. A 1926 silver “Peace” dollar was found in the step.
The Deck: The teak sawed deck beams are 1- 7/8″ deep and sided 1- 1/4” to a constant camber. Each is bolted onto the shelf with two black-iron machine screws with the nuts under. Hanging knees, grown apple crooks, bolt to the beams and frames at the partners and both ends of the deck house. Teak carlins define the cockpit, house, and foredeck hatch profiles. Short deck beams are boxed into the house and hatch carlins. The cockpit margins have small shelves on which the short beams land.
The original construction drawing is vague with regard to the decking. A l”-thick structure of some composition is indicated, but there is no written reference. By 1999, Pirate had a 3/4” teak deck fastened to the deck beams with #8 x 1- 1/4″ bronze flathead screws. The planks were 2″ wide with chamfered edges that formed a groove. There was no caulking. This decking appeared to be 30 to 45 years old. More recently, a 1/4”-thick plywood skin was installed over the flooring compound and fastened with stainless-steel screws. Heavy teak covering boards may have been added at the same time. After this was removed, the heavily-rusted remnants of black-iron nails were found in the deck beam tops. This suggests that the beams were probably original and an earlier deck had been replaced at some time.
When the interior trim was removed, a spacer of some kind was evident between the carlin tops and the bottom edges of the house sides. This was later discovered to be two 1/4” skins of red cedar laid “double diagonal” style. The earliest photographs of Pirate show teak decking bent parallel to the deck profile with covering boards and a king plank.
Evidence indicates that the deck house was built on top of the sub-deck with the teak laid up next to it. This ascertains the original composite: 1/2” subdeck of two skins of red cedar with 3/8″ teak overlay to the class scantling rules. The added stiffness of this structure allowed the builders to omit the lodging knees indicated in the original drawing. There was no evidence of them on the deck beams.
The deck house faces are single pieces of 1″ teak with teak corner posts. Early photographs of the boat indicate that the smaller square hatch in the drawing was not built. Likewise, the two small beams drawn in the sliding hatch cover appear to have been a drafting error. The window profiles taper as they go forward. The opening port lights in the forward face appear in the earliest photographs. The opening port in the house top just ahead of the companionway is original. The teak housetop beams have been sawed to a changing camber, 1-1/4” deep sided, and set into notches on the house sides.
The house top is 5/8” thick, double-diagonal planked red cedar fastened to the beams with boat nails. Painted cotton deck-grade duck canvas covers the housetop planking. The edges of the duck canvas are secured under broad, raised teak boards that form a handrail on all four sides, which were extant in 1999.
A lightly-built teak frame forms the cockpit with sides of 5/16” solid red cedar reinforced locally. The cockpit sole sits on 3-1/2” x 1″ beams and is planked with 3/4” red cedar with splined seams. The canvas duck covering is painted with the edges drawn up under the teak trim pieces.
Archived photographs from 1926 to 1929 show deck hardware consistent with the construction drawings. A 1926 advertisement featuring Pirate’s suppliers listed Merriman Bros, of Boston as the hardware vendor. The advent of Genoa jibs, symmetrical spinnakers, and the new “diamond” rig radically altered the way successful racers were sailed and equipped. Owners of earlier craft were forced to adapt their boats to the new way if they hoped to be successful in the 1930s. Halyard and sheet winches were added along with two-ended spinnaker poles and their gear. By 1999, very little of Pirate’s original deck hardware remained. The extant fittings included the forestay “comb,” opening port light in house top, lO’-long x 1- 1/4”-wide bronze flat tracks, cast bronze builder’s plaque, and bronze master partner brackets. All but the last item also showed evidence of nickel plating.
Rig and Sails: The 50′-long, hollow Sitka spruce mast was blocked solid at the partners, gooseneck, and masthead. The maximum diameter of 6″ at the deck, per class rules, tapered to 2-1/2” at the top. Period photographs show the mast stayed as drawn, using soft eyes and chocks, but the 1934 “diamond” rig stayed using stainless steel cable and rotary swaged terminals pinned to bronze mast tangs. The spar in Pirate was confirmed by Norman Blanchard and Sir Tom crewman John Kelly to be the final rig in Geary’s legendary R, Sir Tom, cut up in a Duwamish River boat yard in the early 1960s.
The spreader profiles, jumper strut, and head stay strut are correct to the 1934 re-rigging. The boom is solid Sitka spruce with twin bridles for sheet blocks and a sliding outhaul car aft. The universal pivoting swiveled bronze gooseneck, secured to the mast with bronze bands, is original to the mast. It is from Pigeon Hollow Spars of Boston. A Merriman Bros. No. 1 outhaul winch is mounted on the starboard side with a handle stowed on the aft side of the mast just above the deck level. The hollow Sitka spruce Spinnaker pole is just over 13′ long per the Rule formulae, with replica end fittings.
From the summer through the winter of 2009, The Center for Wooden Boats documented R-Boat Pirate through a grant from 4Culture. The documentation produced will be used to create a new interpretation exhibit on-site to emphasize the center’s mission to interpret Northwest small craft history. In addition, this project fits into CWB’s broader vision of becoming a regional documentation center affiliated with the National Park Service. The primary consultant to this project is Todd Croteau, HAER Maritime Program Coordinator. The project director is Heron Scott, CWB’s Lead Boatwright, with assistance from CWB staff members Shelly Leavens and Andrew Washburn. Volunteers involved in the documentation include Tim Barney, Scott Rohrer, David Kennedy, and Paul Marlow. Bob Boyce produced LIDAR scans of the vessel. The drawings were developed using a combination of digital survey data, hand measurements, and historic drawings and photographs.
To support the Center for Wooden Boats, click here .
These images are no longer viewable. Did something break on your web site? https://www.themodelshipwright.com/news/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/r_boat_pirate_plan_lines.gif https://www.themodelshipwright.com/news/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/r_boat_pirate_plan_sail_present.gif https://www.themodelshipwright.com/news/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/r_boat_pirate_plan_profile_ib.gif
Or could you send me new links to them?
Try right-clicking on the image and choosing “save as” to save them to your computer, and then open them as local files. I downloaded them and opened them with GIMP, a free photo editing software program, and they worked OK. Some internet browsers have trouble displaying such large images.
Thank you, that worked. So did “save target as”. Once I saved the images I was able to open them.
[…] a change of pace from our ship plans, we’ve put up construction drawings for the R-class sloop Pirate. Presently owned by The Center for Wooden Boats, R-boat Pirate is the best existing example of the […]
[…] Pirate under sail on Lake Union,Seattle. Photo by Karen Rohrer, 2010. […]
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Practical Sailor Takes a Look at Trends in Modern Boat Design
Is the quest for speed and interior comfort trumping smart design in todays sailboats.
Practical Sailor editors have noticed the increasing tendency in newer-model sailboats to be ill-mannered in gusty conditions. Establishing balance between the sails and the hull is one of the main factors in quality boat design. For correct trim, many things must be considered: the ballast package location, the combined longitudinal center of gravity (LCG), and the longitudinal center of buoyancy. At the same time, to maintain a balanced helm, the keel must promote sufficient lead (the fore and aft distance between the center of effort and the center of lateral resistance). To highlight how these boat design principles play out, Practical Sailor looks at classic sailboats such as the Bill Shaw-designed Pearson 32, Ericson 41, Valiant 40, and Peterson 44, and compares their keel/sail ratios and lead values to more modern sailboat designs such as the Catalina, Hunter, Tartan, and Beneteau.
In the course of taking out boats for testing, Practical Sailor editors have observed an increased tendency for new-model sailboats to be ill-mannered in gusty conditions. We have been watching this trend for several years, and it seems to be becoming more usual than unusual.
In a typical situation, we will be sailing the test boat on the wind in 12 or so knots of breeze and everything is fine. Then, the breeze picks up to about 15 knots and the helm loads up. OK, thats to be expected, so we flatten the main, drop down the traveler, and that takes care of it.
Then we get a puff. Were already on the point of needing to reef, so in the puff, were overcanvassed. Instead of just heeling farther, the boat begins to round up. Fighting it with the helm is hard work, and easing the main so it luffs doesn’t help much.
Photo by Ralph Naranjo
We take in a reef, which usually means we roll in a bit of the jib or a bit of the main, or both, and the helm lightens up. We trim to the new wind and sail along, a bit slower now in the light spots, but then the next gust comes along, and the helm immediately loads up again.
In the worst case weve experienced, the boat rounded up so quickly that it tacked, even though the helm was hard over in the opposite direction. To prove that wasnt a fluke caused by a temporary diversion into a parallel universe, it did the same thing on the other tack.
Practical Sailor editors are old enough to remember a generation of cruising boats that didnt behave in this manner. For sure, there have always been twitchy boats, but most, when hit by a gust, would heel a little more, put some pressure on the wheel or tiller, and once the boat picked up speed, the pressure would come right off. A boat like that will sail for a long time with a loose lashing on the helm.
So, where does this bad habit come from? Several trends in modern cruising yacht design can share the blame. One of them is builders inclination to tilt their designs toward the performance end of the cruisers spectrum. Many recent and current cruising boats, if suitably fitted out with racing sails and the hardware and software to tweak them, could put up an impressive show on the race course.
The sensitivity to trim that accompanies such potential isn’t always suited to cruising shorthanded or with a family, when balance and good manners are key both to enjoyment and, to a degree, safety.
Establishing Balance
Many factors contribute to the balance of a sailboat. The obvious and principal pair are the sails and the hull. When working up a new design, the architect develops these in close association, but both are in turn influenced by other aspects of the boats design as it evolves.
In the standard approach, the designer works up preliminary drawings to express the basic requirements of the design brief, which normally include a desired length, displacement, cabin arrangement, and sailplan to provide the desired performance.
He then sketches out the hull lines (the matrix of contours that define its three-dimensional shape and its volume) to enclose the interior and meet expressed performance goals. The preliminary lines also serve as a basis on which to perform a number of calculations, one of them being the location of the center of buoyancy (CB).
With everything roughed out, the designer then “weighs” every item that will go into the complete boat, from the hull laminate to the toothbrush holder, but excluding the ballast. He combines these weights and their locations on the three axes, X, Y, and Z, to calculate the center of gravity (CG) of the whole package. Computer programs have helped to speed up this process and make volume calculations more accurate, but the process hasn’t changed much.
For the boat to float on its desired lines, the ballast package must then be designed and located to bring the combined longitudinal CG (LCG) of hull and ballast to the same fore-and-aft location as the CB (LCB). Once everything has been resolved satisfactorily, the designer can finalize the lines, carry out the necessary calculations, and establish shape and locations for the keel and the sailplan.
On most boats of current design, the ballast also constitutes the fin keel, and in that role, its location determines the center of lateral resistance (CLR), which in conjunction with the center of effort (CE) of the sailplan, influences how the boat balances under sail.
Even as boat design procedures have evolved from three-dimensional modeling using half hulls, through two-dimensional modeling using pen on vellum, to three-dimensional virtual modeling on computers, the fundamental principles have remained constant. One of the fundamental values used for predicting the proclivities of a boats helm is the dimension termed “lead.” Lead, pronounced “leed,” is the fore and aft distance between the CE and the CLR, expressed as a percentage of the waterline length (DWL).
“Skenes Elements of Yacht Design,” as revised by Francis S. Kinney, and other references for yacht design provide rules of thumb for calculating lead from the sailplan and the hull profile. (See illustration above).
Looking at the diagram, its easy to see how lead is an elusive quantity. First of all, no boat sails with the sailplan as shown-the sails are never flat and on centerline. The traditional range for lead places the CE forward of the CLR by 14 to 19 percent of DWL. This value is lifted from “Skenes,” for years the first reference for any designer. Since that book was written and updated, hull forms have changed, and with them, optimum values for lead.
On designs with fin keels, lead is often calculated with reference to the keel alone. One feature remains constant whatever the design. Moving the centers closer together-reducing lead-increases the tendency to weather helm. Moving them apart reduces that tendency. If the lead is too great, the result may be lee helm, which is generally considered undesirable-and is in fact, rare.
In Kinneys prime years, the 1960s to the 1980s, the basic working sailplan of a sloop included a 150-percent genoa, which would have the effect of moving the CE closer to the CLR. Many designs today have headsails with short or even no overlap and very often a full-battened mainsail with lots of roach. The different aerodynamic characteristics of such rigs might well affect optimum lead, something which designers can only determine through experience. (If a boatbuilder offers an in-mast furling mainsail as an option, its effect on lead will differ from that of the “classic” sailboat.)
The effective CLR can also be very different from that calculated. On a deep-bodied, full-keel hull, that difference simply might be the difference between the geometric center and the center of hydrodynamic pressure of the whole profile.
A sharp bow with a pronounced “chin” might well move the effective CLR forward. On a modern, fin-keeled boat with a shallow, broad canoe body like that of a dinghy, the keel makes a proportionately larger contribution to lateral resistance, so the location of the keel will strongly influence where that resistance operates.
Obviously the rudder, too, is part of the lateral plane, but if our objective is to sail with light to neutral pressure on the helm, under normal conditions, it should not be making a significant contribution to lateral resistance. Its role is to provide a means to change the boats direction and to compensate for the constant fluctuations in the forces applied to the boat in the normal course of sailing. A certain amount of pressure in the form of weather helm helps by providing positive feedback to the helmsman on the state of balance. That said, on many racing hulls, the rudder is designed to contribute lift and has an active role in driving the boat to windward. (It is worth noting that those wide-bodied race boats also tend to have twin rudders.)
Then and Now
Even in the age of computer modeling, yacht design remains a series of compromises. At the moment, it seems the pendulum has swung to a point where high-volume, wide-beam shapes dominate. With them come large rigs to overcome skin drag and its negative effect in light air. As a result, theres a need to sail the vessel as flat as possible or suffer the consequences.
The sailplan and outboard profiles of boats from different eras represent the shift in yacht design that has occurred during recent decades. The modern boats have longer proportional waterlines, indicating higher potential speed. It also means that the boats immersed volume, or displacement, has been distributed over a greater length.
Given two boats of similar displacement like the classic Pearson 32 and the modern Tartan 3400 (above), the Tartan winds up with a shallower canoe body. This also contributes to its being potentially faster and, if both boats had the same draft, would give the keel a slight advantage in span, and therefore effectiveness to windward.
So far so good, but a shallower canoe body forces the cabin sole upward, especially if the belowdecks accommodations are to take full advantage of the wide beam favored in the modern hull. To achieve comparable headroom with its older counterpart, the cabintop has to go up, too, and to ensure sitting headroom on the settees under the sidedeck, so does the freeboard.
Ultimately, the whole deck moves upward. To ensure the boom doesn’t sweep everybody out of the cockpit during an unplanned jibe, the boom too goes up. If sail area is not to be compromised, the entire mainsail goes up, and with it, its center of effort. The bigger the boat, the less pronounced these differences become as the proportions become more relaxed.
Differences are visible, too, between the boats keels; the modern Tartans is smaller in area. While it might be claimed that less wetted surface promises higher sailing speeds in light air, some builders accept a smaller keel to simplify the manufacture of the hull.
In a perfect world, the designer draws a keel to suit the boats sail area and other characteristics, places it to obtain the desired sailing performance, then massages the needed ballast to both fit the keel and trim the boat correctly. The volume of the ballast is usually less than that of the keel, and the builder has to do some intricate laminating work to mold a keel to receive ballast internally or a stub to which to bolt it externally.
On many production boats today, the keels are bolted directly to the bottom of a fair canoe body, a practice which eliminates much labor. The consequence is that the area of the keel is determined by the weight, and therefore the volume, of the ballast. To achieve the desired hydrodynamic properties and mechanical strength-it mustnt bend under the influence of normal sailing loads-a given volume of ballast can be formed into a limited range of shapes. Placing ballast in a bulb at the bottom aids the keels efficiency by creating an endplate effect and raises stiffness by placing ballast low, but it means that the keels lateral plane is sharply reduced.
For a more dramatic representation of how changes in keel design can affect helm balance, compare a Cruising Club of America (CCA) design like the Ericson 41 above, to a modern equivalent with comparable sail area like the Beneteau 46.
When sailing, two boats are subjected to similar forces on the sails. Resisting that side force are the immersed hull, the keel, and the rudder. If the hulls offer similar resistance, the remaining force is shared between the keel and rudder. If one keel is smaller than the other (as is clearly the case here), the effect is to increase the share taken by the rudder.
When the sails are trimmed properly and all is in balance, the rudder will carry a small load. If however, you hit a gust, the rudder must pick up a high proportion of the added side thrust until balance is restored, usually by some adjustment to sail trim.
Simply put, boats of the general modern type are not forgiving in changeable conditions, say, for example when the apparent wind is in the 12- to 18-knot range. At the higher end, youd want to be reefed; at the lower end, probably not.
On a day when you expect the wind to soften rather than harden, youd rather not put in the reef, so that you can maintain speed in the lulls. In the puffs, you want your hands free to ease the traveler and flatten the jib, which is hard to do if the helm is a handful. Compounding the problem on most boats, the mainsail controls are usually not within reach of the helm.
On racing boats, such sensitivity isn’t an issue. On the contrary, sufficient crew are on hand to make adjustments on the fly as quickly and often as needed to keep the boat sailing at her fastest.
Cruising boats are often sailed shorthanded and by crews who are not looking for a constant physical workout. An autopilot might be doing most of the steering, and good balance is helpful in protecting it from having to work too hard-or from being overpowered.
Another striking difference between the older and newer designs is visible in the plan (overhead) view. By 1980, cruising-boat hulls were already becoming beamy relative to boats of the 1960s and 1970s. The current trend is to carry the beam aft, so that in the region of the rudder, its as much as 85 percent of the maximum beam, far wider than the 55 percent to 60 percent once considered acceptable. The principal beneficiary of this extra breadth is the boats interior-builders often offer twin double cabins aft where a generation ago they might have squeezed in a quarter berth and a cockpit locker. The cockpit, too, becomes roomier, and the transom, scooped and sculpted, is transformed into a swim platform and dinghy dock.
Photo by Jarrod Scanlon
All this additional boat aft adds weight aft, in both construction materials and outfit. To compensate, the ballast-that is to say, the keel-has to be fitted farther forward.
The full beam aft does provide a significant boost to the boats ability to carry sail. As the boat heels, the center of buoyancy moves quickly outboard, away from the center of gravity. This lengthens the righting arm, giving a positive contribution toward stability, but it also moves the immersed centerline of the hull away from the static centerline along which both the keel and the rudder are attached. Depending on the hulls shape, this can create a distortion in the immersed volume, which can in turn affect the dynamics acting on it.
Effect of Keel Area
Another factor entering the equation is the area of the keel. This, too, is apparent when comparing the drawings of the older and newer generation boats. Many of the standard tracts on the design of sailing yachts are, lets say, vague on what keel area is adequate or even desirable, although many designers have come up with their own formulas.
Because the keel is reacting in the water to forces generated on the sails by the wind, it makes sense that the area of a fin keel should be related in some way to sail area.
When naval architect Dave Gerr took over as director of the Westlawn Institute of Marine Technology, he found the course materials for sailing yacht design had little detailed explanation on this topic, a gap he subsequently filled. Briefly, he recommends no fin keel should be less that 2.5 percent of the sail area (mainsail 100 percent foretriangle) and need be no more than 5 percent. The smaller value is appropriate for a racing boat with a full crew aboard to trim and tweak the sails to every change in the wind. The larger area is suited to cruising boats, which need to be more forgiving to shorthanded crews.
Current Design Trends
In the past, racing measurement rules have been criticized because the boats designed to compete under them have become type-formed, sometimes with unwelcome consequences in how they handle. We might just as easily level criticism at present-day marketing and manufacturing methods for doing the same to cruising boats.
Lets face it, but for a few differences in sailplans and keel shapes, modern cruising sailboats are quite generic below the sheerline. They are all beamy; they carry their beam aft; they have long waterlines; they have dinghy-like underbodies; and they have spade rudders. The forces that have created this shape have at least as much to do with how many people can sleep and shower in them comfortably as with how the boats will sail.
Dishing out the hull shape in this manner makes it fairly easy to push through the water, but arranging the keel, rudder, and sails so they work in concert has become a more complex problem, exacerbated by having to compensate for extra weight of accommodations aft, something thats less of an issue in raceboats.
The byproduct of these design parameters is zesty performance, a bonus for the marketing department, but speed for its own sake is not the first priority of cruising sailors. In the brochure for the Beneteau 37, the boats polar diagram shows a maximum theoretical sailing speed of over 12 knots in 30 knots of wind. When cruising sailors encounter 30-knot winds, they are more likely to hunker down in the expectation it will blow even harder than they are to set the chute to go surfing. What they want is a boat that will take readily to hunkering, and all the signs indicate those boats are getting fewer in number . . . and they are mostly older designs.
- The Balancing Act
- Pearson 32 vs. Tartan 3400
- Ericson 41 vs. Beneteau 46
- Practical Sailor Design Guide
- The Modern Hull and Helm Balance
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INTRODUCTION TO SAILBOAT DESIGN: A TECHNICAL EXPLORATION
Sailboat design is a complex and fascinating field that blends engineering, hydrodynamics, and aesthetics to create vessels that harness the power of the wind for propulsion. In this highly technical article, we will delve into the key aspects of sailboat design, from methodology to evaluation.
1) Design Methodology
Designing a sailboat is a meticulous process that begins with defining the vessel’s purpose and performance goals. It involves understanding the intended use, whether it’s racing, cruising, or a combination of both. Sailboat designers must also consider regulatory requirements and safety standards.
Once the design objectives are established, naval architects employ various computational tools and simulations to create a preliminary design. These tools help in predicting the boat’s performance characteristics and optimizing its geometry.
Design methodology also encompasses market research to understand current trends and customer preferences. This information is critical for creating a sailboat that appeals to potential buyers.
2) Hull Design
The hull is the heart of any sailboat. Its shape determines how the boat interacts with the water. Hull design encompasses the choice of hull form, its dimensions, and the material used. The hull’s shape affects its hydrodynamic performance, stability, and overall handling.
For example, a narrow hull design with a deep V-shape is ideal for speed, while a wider, flatter hull provides stability for cruising. The choice of materials, such as fiberglass or aluminum, impacts the boat’s weight and durability.
The hull design is a balance between achieving efficient hydrodynamics and providing interior space for accommodations. As a designer, finding this equilibrium is a constant challenge.
3) Keel & Rudder Design
The keel and rudder are critical components of a sailboat’s underwater structure. The keel provides stability by preventing the boat from tipping over, while the rudder controls its direction. Keel design involves selecting the keel type (fin, bulb, or wing) and optimizing its shape for maximum hydrodynamic efficiency.
Rudder’s design focuses on ensuring precise control and maneuverability. Both components must be carefully integrated into the hull’s design to maintain balance and performance.
Keel and rudder design can be particularly challenging because they influence the boat’s behavior in different ways. A well-designed keel adds stability but also increases draft, limiting where the boat can sail. Rudder design must account for both responsiveness and the risk of stalling at high speeds.
4) Sail & Rig Design
Sail and rig design play a pivotal role in harnessing wind power. Sail choice, size, and shape are tailored to the boat’s intended use and performance goals. Modern sail materials like carbon fiber offer lightweight and durable options.
The rig design involves selecting the type of mast (single or multiple), rigging configuration, and mast height. These choices influence the sailboat’s stability, maneuverability, and ability to handle varying wind conditions.
Balancing the sails and rig for optimal performance is a meticulous task. The sail plan should be designed to efficiently convert wind energy into forward motion while allowing for easy adjustments to adapt to changing conditions.
5) Balance
Balancing a sailboat is crucial for its performance and safety. Achieving the right balance involves a delicate interplay between the hull, keel, rudder, and sail plan. Proper balance ensures the boat remains stable and responds predictably to helm inputs, even in changing wind conditions.
Balance is not a static concept but something that evolves as the boat sails in different wind and sea conditions. Designers must anticipate how changes in load, wind angle, and sail trim will affect the boat’s balance.
Achieving balance is both an art and a science, and it often requires iterative adjustments during the design and testing phases to achieve optimal results.
6) Propulsion
While sailboats primarily rely on wind propulsion, auxiliary propulsion systems like engines are essential for maneuvering in harbors or during calm conditions. Integrating propulsion systems seamlessly into the boat’s design requires careful consideration of engine placement, fuel storage, and exhaust systems.
The choice of propulsion system, whether it’s a traditional diesel engine or a more eco-friendly electric motor, also impacts the boat’s weight distribution and overall performance.
7) Scantling
Scantling refers to the selection of structural components and their dimensions to ensure the boat’s strength and integrity. It involves determining the appropriate thickness of the hull, deck, and other structural elements to withstand the stresses encountered at sea.
Scantling is a critical aspect of sailboat design, as it directly relates to safety. A well-designed boat must be able to withstand the forces exerted on it by waves, wind, and other environmental factors.
8) Stability
Stability is a critical safety factor in sailboat design. Both upright hydrostatics and large-angle stability must be carefully assessed and optimized. This involves evaluating the boat’s center of gravity, ballast, and hull shape.
Achieving the right balance between initial stability, which provides comfort to passengers, and ultimate stability, which ensures safety in adverse conditions, is a delicate task. Designers often use stability curves and computer simulations to fine-tune these characteristics.
9) Layout
The layout of a sailboat’s interior and deck spaces is a blend of functionality and comfort. Designers must consider the ergonomics of living and working aboard the vessel, including cabin layout, galley design, and storage solutions. The deck layout influences crew movements and sail handling.
Layout design also extends to considerations like ventilation, lighting, and noise control. Sailboats are unique in that they must provide both comfortable living spaces and efficient workspaces for handling sails and navigation.
10) Design Evaluation
The final phase of sailboat design involves rigorous evaluation and testing. Computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations, tank testing, and real-world sea trials help validate the design’s performance predictions. Any necessary adjustments are made to fine-tune the vessel’s behavior on the water.
The evaluation phase is where the theoretical aspects of design meet the practical realities of the sea. It’s a crucial step in ensuring that the sailboat not only meets but exceeds its performance and safety expectations.
Conclusion:
In conclusion, sailboat design is a highly technical field that requires a deep understanding of hydrodynamics, engineering principles, and materials science. Naval architects and yacht designers meticulously navigate through the intricacies of hull design, keel and rudder configuration, sail and rig design, balance, propulsion, scantling, stability, layout, and design evaluation to create vessels that excel in both form and function. The harmonious integration of these elements results in sailboats that are not just seaworthy but also a joy to sail, and this process is a testament to the art and science of sailboat design.
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This Stunning Outer Wilds: Design Works Collector's Package Reminds Us Why We Love The 2019 GOTY
- Entertainment
This Stunning Outer Wilds: Design Works Collector's Package Reminds Us Why We Love The 2019 GOTY
The deluxe edition includes a hardcover book featuring exclusive interviews with the game's creators, a 3d papercraft model of its iconic ship, and more..
Outer Wilds is often touted as one of the greatest video games in recent memory, winning Game of the Year in 2019 from numerous publications. If you ask anyone online for an exploration-based game, not even mentioning the space setting, chances are someone will recommend this masterpiece from the brilliant minds at Annapurna Interactive and Mobius Digital. They’re not wrong, of course. It’s a phenomenal game with a story to tell, and its community of fervent supporters crave more. Thankfully, the book Outer Wilds: Design Works by Lost in Cult promises a slew of limited-edition collector’s items for fans of the game.
The collector’s package comes in three editions: Deluxe Signed, Deluxe Un-Signed, and the Standard Edition, the latter of which just features the book and nothing else. The Standard Edition is the cheapest option at £44.99, but if you want to score everything available, including the hardcover book, a papercraft ship model, some replica stones, two bookmarks, a planetary chart, a sticker sheet, a slipcase, some postcards, and several posters, expect to pay £125.99.
Besides the hardcover book, which features behind-the-scenes production insights and interviews with the game’s creators, the 3D papercraft ship model is the true stand out here. Sure, the posters and postcards look fantastic, and they’re an excellent collector’s item that you’ll place somewhere in your home or office, but seriously, that papercraft model comprises seven 210 x 270mm DIY sheets that fold together to create a detailed replica of Outer Worlds’ iconic exploration craft. It’ll sit comfortably on your desk or bookshelf for years to come.
If you’re on the fence about the Outer Wilds: Design Works , don’t fret over the decision for too long. The pre-order campaign closes on November 2nd, and the estimated release date for the entire project is Q2/Q3 2025.
Outer Wilds: Design Works Hardcover And Slipcase
Outer Wilds: Design Works Postcards
Outer Wilds: Design Works Planetary Chart
Outer Wilds: Design Works Projection Stones
Outer Wilds: Design Works Posters
Outer Wilds: Design Works Sticker Sheet
Outer Wilds: Design Works Bookmarks
Outer Wilds: Design Works Paper Model
Athletic Design.
Exceptional agility., explore the unrivaled performance of everglades’ flagship, 455cc offshore center console boat, the everglades 455cc is the epitome of premium performance in the world of center console boats. this vessel commands attention with its sleek lines and expert craftsmanship. designed with the discerning boater in mind, the 455cc offers unparalleled comfort and convenience without compromising on functionality..
Equipped with cutting-edge technology and innovative features, the 455cc ensures a smooth and exhilarating ride on the water. Its spacious deck provides ample room for fishing, lounging, or entertaining guests, while the spacious cabin offers a retreat from the elements when needed. With a range of customizable options available, including top-of-the-line electronics, premium seating, and fishing amenities, the Everglades 455cc sets a new standard for center console boats, blending performance, craftsmanship, and versatility seamlessly.
Model Specs
Fuel Capacity
Weight w. Options
See 455cc Specs Sheet
See 455cc performance report, 455cc key highlights, 455cc virtual tour, fishability from bow to stern.
The most powerful fishing tool is your boat. The Everglades 455cc is adjourned with fishing features from bow to stern to ensure you’re not scrambling when the fish are biting.
Second Station Designed to Impress
The second station on the 455cc was specially designed to complement the elegant design of this fishing battleship. With room for three and access to state-of-the-art technology, this second station can’t be beat.
Stay Cool on the Water
Air conditioning in the cockpit and at the mezzanine seat transcend your center console expectations, ensuring your time on the water is as enjoyable as possible. A fully concealed and air-conditioned head with enclosed shower adds to the comfort and elegance of this offshore center console.
455cc Owner’s Manual
Dive deeper and get to know your boat., read the manual, hear from real everglades owners.
“ Aurther H 355 CC “ This is my 4th Everglades owned and I have to say what draws me to the brand is the fit and finish. For me feeling safe and in control in the water always comes first. I do not know any other boat manufacturer out there that gives me that feeling quite like Everglades. Arthur Hernandez ”
“ Michael W 355t “ I've been fishing in the Keys since 1998 and my new 355T is a perfect platform for ease of fishing, safety while in rough conditions, providing comfort and convenient operation for a wonderful boating or fishing experience. I can't say enough about my 355T. ”
“ Joel A Better than expected “ Best boat I ever owned. Smoothest ride - hands down. There's no substitute for weight! Plenty of modern comforts but still a fishing machine. Finally a boat the family loves as much as I do. Everything about it is solid and made to last. Worth the price! This one's a keeper and probably the last boat I'll ever buy. ”
“ Larry C Everglades 325 “ Excellent all purpose boat. Fishes well and wife loves it. Great boat for the whole family to enjoy whether fishing, swimming, picnicing or joy riding with the grandkids. ”
“ David G Everglades 255 “ My wife and I have been boating for over 40 years. We have owned one sail boat and 7 power boats. Of those 7 power boats 2 have been Boston Whalers and 2 Everglades. Now that we live in Key west we finally settled on the 255 CC. It is the perfect size for here in Key West. We can run thru "skinny" water on the Gulf side and take on whatever we wish to take on in the Atlantic. The twin 200's are very economical but can also hustle us home ahead of a storm. Everyone says it is a beauty. ”
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