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Sailboat Guide

International FJ

International FJ is a 13 ′ 2 ″ / 4 m monohull sailboat designed by Uus van Essen and built by Schock W.D., Grampian Marine, Advance Sailboat Corp., Paceship Yachts Ltd., Alpa Yachts, Centro Nautico Adriatico, Whitecap Composites, Costantini (Chantier Naval Costantini), Nautivela, Zim Sailing, and Comar Yachts starting in 1956.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
LOA: Length overall in feet
Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Formerly FLYING DUTCHMAN JUNIOR, FLYING JUNIOR. As of 1980 the name was officially changed to INTERNATIONAL FJ. First built of Fiberglass in 1960. A ‘Club’ version (CLUB FJ) is of heavier construction with approximately the same dimensions. There have been a number of other variants including the DEMON, a stretched version of the same design, and the PIRATE, said to be a FJ hull with a TASER deck and seen mostly in Canada. (Formerly listed here as FLYING JUNIOR (INTERNATIONAL FJ).) Spinnaker Area: 8m2/86 sq.ft.

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420 vs FJ racing

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Does anyone have solid advice as far as racing fj's v 420's (purely boat speed related)? My impression is the fj is slightly more responsive, and likes to point a little more than go low and fast upwind, but i have only had a few races in one. I have plenty of 420 experience so I wont have any problem working off of comparisons. It would be collegiate so no chutes or traps involved. Thanks

At the risk of sounding seditious, try the Dinghy thread at SA: Sailing Anarchy Forums -> Dinghy Anarchy The Racing forum at Sailnet just isn't that robust, look how many days or weeks there between threads. SA is definitely rougn-and-tumble, but much more race-oriented...

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Crewing Guide to College Dinghies

December 24, 2013 by Sail1Design Editor Leave a Comment

By Airwaves writer Lydia Whiteford

Upon entering high school or college sailing, most crews who have been sailing for a while are very familiar with the Club 420. However, if these crews are coming out of club sailing, it can suddenly become a different boat altogether when it is stripped of its trap and spinnaker rig. Then, a variety of different other dinghies, sometimes unique to certain schools themselves, suddenly pop up in collegiate sailing and crews have to learn these boats as well as any other. In this article, I’ve compiled a list of helpful tips to assist new college crews in adapting to the number of different boats they may face in their careers.

420s: There is a surprisingly large difference, technically, between crewing in a club 420 rigged with a spinnaker and trap and one rigged for high school and college sailing. The biggest difference is that the boats are often heavier, with some venues filling the rails of all their boats to minimize damage in collisions. Also, collegiate races are shorter than club races, so boat handling really becomes important to going fast as opposed to just straight-line boat speed. Therefore, the biggest thing for crews who are used to sailing club boats to get used to is the boat handling. Roll tacking a 420, in particular, can be a deadly weapon and can guarantee good boat speed especially in conditions where the wind is limited. Because good roll tacking is mostly dependent on timing, my advice is to develop a practice with your skipper in which you can count down to a roll. A simple “ready to tack” followed by a “3…2…1…tacking” is the best way to get this started, and eventually you will be so practiced that the timing will become muscle memory. 420s are often the easiest boat to adapt to, because most crews coming into college sailing are already familiar with them.

FJs: FJs are arguably the most sailed dinghies in college sailing. Because of all the schools with venues that are on lakes or rivers, FJs are usually the boat of choice. Crewing in an FJ is vastly different from crewing in an FJ, starting with the fact that while sailing upwind the crew sits backwards. This can be difficult to get used to, but it is something you should do the first time you get into an FJ so you can start practicing immediately, even though it is tempting to sit forwards the first couple of times. The major benefit of sitting backwards is that the crew is now facing the skipper, so timing for maneuvers is easier to coordinate if you can look at your skipper or crew throughout the whole thing. Also, an FJ roll tack or roll jibe should feel a lot snappier than a 420, as the boats are more tippy and maneuverable. A 420 roll tends to involve your entire body to achieve the same feeling that a properly timed shoulder snap can give you in an FJ.

The second biggest thing to get used to when crewing in FJs is that the leads for the jib are adjustable, and they don’t cleat. The jib is much bigger, so it is more important in these boats to be able to ease and trim constantly to achieve top speed. However, because you cannot cleat your jib it is easy to not have it trimmed correctly. My best advice on this is to play around in practice and make sure to inspect your jib whenever you make a change. Once you can see what easing, trimming, or moving the leads does to the jib shape, it is easier to recognize when it looks correct or when it looks bad and adjust it accordingly.

Vanguard 15: While, admittedly, this is not a boat sailed often in college regattas; it is a favorite off-season dinghy of many college sailors, including myself. V-15s are an excellent opportunity for sailors who want to keep their skills sharp when they’re not in season, as the class has most of its regattas over the summer months or in the winter. They are a lot like college dinghies, but they also introduce some aspects of higher performance dinghies with their adjustable stay-masters. The biggest challenge for crews in a V-15 is the hull shape. It is extremely shallow, so foot and body placement can be tough for those who are used to the shape of a 420 or FJ that has plenty of legroom. Unfortunately, if there is light wind this means a lot of squatting and a lot of balance, but with enough practice you can find a spot that is comfortable for your legs, and this spot will be different for every crew. The hull is also wide, so it can be difficult to cross without the leverage that the deeper-hulled boats offer for your legs. The best way I’ve found to solve this problem is to hook my foot under the far hiking strap instead of the near one, that way my body covers more distance and I don’t lose my balance as easily. Also these boats have dagger boards instead of centerboards, so extra planning downwind to handle a board that you can’t lower with a line will often pay to avoid getting stuck with the board up.

Other: This may seem like an odd category, but there are actually boats in college sailing that you will find in one venue and probably never see again once you graduate. The Larks at Tufts and Fireflies or Techs at MIT are a few examples, as well as the new Collegiate 420 that will soon replace the old boat we love so dearly. These boats often times cannot be mastered, unless you go to the school where they have them and practice them everyday. However, there are things you can think about before stepping into any dinghy to help you figure out the best way to crew in them. Do a couple of tacks as soon as you get on the water with your skipper. Is it more comfortable to sit forward or backwards, based on where the jib leads are? Should you do a really hard roll tack like you would in a 420, or do the boats require more of a load and flatten technique? These are questions that you should be asking yourself and your skipper before any race starts, so that you can be prepared for quick maneuvers during a race. Also, some boats have their rigs set up differently from what you can be used to with 420s and FJs. For example, both Larks and Fireflies have the vang rigged to the skipper for easy adjustments and the centerboard rigged so that you hoist it close to the mast. This is why, if you have never sailed or even seen a particular boat before, it is important you try to rig it yourself so that you can become at least a little familiar with it.

The bottom line is, any boat can go from alien and awkward to (pardon the pun) a breeze to sail with enough practice. If you are faced with a boat you are not comfortable in, make sure to try and get lots of maneuvers in during a practice, especially in the areas you are most uncomfortable, like jibes or tacks. If it is a situation where you will not get to practice in the boat until the regatta, then communication between you and your co ach and you and your skipper can go a long way to cohesive sailing in an unfamiliar boat.

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General Information

International fj.

Hull
LOA	4.03 m
Beam	1.50 m
Draft	1.05 m
Hull weight (min)	75 kg

Sails
Close hauled	9.7 m
Main sail	7.3 m
Jib	2.4 m
Spinnaker	8.0 m

Easy to sail in a wide variety of wind and sea conditions.
Easy to own- light for trailering, easy maintenance
Fast and exiting to sail- planes in about 12 knots of wind.
Inexpensive- used race-ready FJs are about $2500, new ones are about $5300.
Has a full complement of rigging- main, jib, and spinnaker- the crew always has something to do!!
Excellent design to learn the technical aspects of sailing- the wide range of rigging options allow the FJ to be tuned for any wind condition.
Very competitive racing class- Local, Regional, National and World Championship Regattas available.
Tactical- teaches the important tactical and strategic aspects of racing.
A good daysailor- while designed for two-handed racing, the FJ can carry up to 600 lbs./ 4 people and still perform well.

All About The FJ

Informational >>

The Fj is the shorter name for Flying Junior. The Flying Junior or FJ is a sailing dinghy which was designed in 1955 in the Netherlands by renowned boat designer Van Essen and Olympic sailor Conrad Gülcher. The FJ was built to serve as a training boat for the Olympic class Flying Dutchman. The FJ has a beam of 4’11” and an overall sail area of 100 square feet. These dimensions make the FJ an ideal class to teach young sailors the skills of boat handling and racing. Today the FJ is sailed in Japan, Canada, Germany, Italy, Belgium, the Netherlands, Slovenia and the United States. In the US, many high school sailing and Intercollegiate Sailing Association programs own fleets of FJs. The college and high school programs in the US use a version of the FJ known as the Club FJ. This boat is slightly different from the International FJ in that it does not use Trapeze and it has a smaller, non-spherical Spinnaker.

SKIPPER AND CREW

The Fj is the boat we will sail at practice and competition mainly. You will over time learn its strengths, weaknesses, and tricks. On the FJ we have two sails. One mainsail and one jib. The mainsail is the skipper’s job and the jib is the crew’s job. The mainsail is the bigger sail that will catch all the air and make your boat go fast! The jib is to balance out the boat and make it be able to go longer distances in shorter times.

When going upwind the Skipper will pull the mainsail in and out as it seems fit to the wind. The more pulled in, the more air it catches, therefore making it go faster. The crew will always have his jib pulled in 100% on the upwind. This helps the boat to stay faster and the skipper be able to read the boat cues easier. If the skipper and crew work together with their sails and communicate then the outcome is a very fast boat!

On the downwind, the crew will push the boom out across the boat to where it’s at a 90-degree angle. The skipper will have the rope loosely to the mainsail and be leaning over the boat to make sure the jib catches the wind. The ideal state is for the boat to be “wing on wing” where the mainsail is on one side and the jib is on the opposite. Sometimes the wind will not let you go wing on the wing though, so your other option is to have your mainsail on the same side. This usually catches less wind but still makes your boat go fast on the downwind.

TIPS AND TRICKS:

Here are some tips and tricks when sailing the FJ…

Always know which way the wind is coming from. This will help you know where you need to point your boat and how you can get across the water the fastest
Put the daggerboard half way up when going downwind. This reduces friction between the boat and the water, causing the boat to be faster.
If you are sailing in heavy wind. You should let out your mainsail a bit, lean out over the boat, and then pull the sail back in. This helps to dump the air out and get your boat flat while also giving a boost of speed.
Learn the names of the different rope on the boat. You have your Cunningham, outhaul, and vang all memorized. This will help when your coach is yelling at you to pull one of them in or make them looser.
Have your crew sit backward. This helps so they don’t have to flip around every time you tack and also it means the skipper is looking forward and the crew is looking back so you cant hit anything and you always have sight of your surroundings.

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Flying Juniors

Thread starter Simon Sexton
Start date Feb 7, 2018
Forums for All Owners
Ask All Sailors

Simon Sexton

JohnShannon

I would say in the photo the crew should sit right together and forward. In light air you have kind of a draggy rear end you want to get it out of the water. Light air bow down trim. You know on the downwind legs to take the centerboard up right? Minimizes drag. Good luck have fun

JohnShannon said: I would say in the photo the crew should sit right together and forward. In light air you have kind of a draggy rear end you want to get it out of the water. Light air bow down trim. You know on the downwind legs to take the centerboard up right? Minimizes drag. Good luck have fun Click to expand

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

@Simon Sexton sounds like weight means lots of wind needed. You may just be at a disadvantage in light air agains a couple of 120lb dripping wet competitors. Sail trim. Your image shows a fairly raked mast. Not sure about what is best on the FJ. In my M15 5 degrees was optimal. When going down wind we wanted the mast to be vertical so we sailed with a rather loose mast. The stays were not super tight. It could be the angles but it appears the boom slants down from the mast. I always try to set the rig with the boom parallel to the water. The center board is variable. It helps to stop you from slipping sideways. Pulling it up on may cause your boat to slip sideways. You need to adjust it based on conditions. 1/3 1/2 or 3/4 depends on what the boat is doing. In a blow you may want a bit of board down wind to maintain stability. Then practice your tacking. Make yourself smooth in the water. And plan your tactics. You should have an advantage over visiting Sailors as you know the water they need to learn where to sail based on conditions ie. tide, wind, etc. Good luck.

Look up John Kolius and see if he'll coach you.

Yeah, downwind keep your weight centered and centered.... right?

agprice22 said: Yeah, downwind keep your weight centered and centered.... right? Click to expand

Check with some of the local Yacht Clubs and get into their Junior program or the High School Sailing program. They probably have lot's of stuff going on in 420s which will transfer over to the FJ.

Rich Stidger

1978. 20 year old FJ was my first sailboat. I didn't have a clue how to sail it. Well actually I did have a clue but it was wrong. My wife still thinks I am clueless, but that's another story.....

You know if you are dead downwind, crank on the outhaul. In DDW the sail is stalled so the goal is maximum projected area. Also DDW try heeling the boat to windward a bit. Also if you are near them pay attention to what the Kiwis are doing it sounds like it is less wrong that what you are doing. Also ask them over a beer they might tell you something

JohnShannon said: You know if you are dead downwind, crank on the outhaul. In DDW the sail is stalled so the goal is maximum projected area. Also DDW try heeling the boat to windward a bit. Also if you are near them pay attention to what the Kiwis are doing it sounds like it is less wrong that what you are doing. Also ask them over a beer they might tell you something Click to expand

Will Gilmore

To slack the outhaul for a DDW run takes planing, timing and coordination to pull off without stopping the boom swing significantly mid-course change. You probably won't have time on a short course. You have an advantage of ballast due to your size, learn to use it. Keep the stick as vertical as possible. Also, get Jackdaw to advise you. I haven't read anyone else's posts on SBO that knows more about racing than him. Wax the bottom of your boat, if that's legal, I don't know racing rules. It sounds like you've got the theory down, so become a well oiled machine. And learn to read the wind. Being in the right wind can make all the difference. I've been left drifting at the head of a flotilla of floundering racers by one lone skipper who had the right wind while the rest of us just sat and gawked as she crossed the finish line on the outside line. Very frustrating. - Will (Dragonfly)

Oh I have heard about 400 wet sand paper on the bottom not wax at all. Also try to be at the start line at speed when the gun goes off.

Will Gilmore said: To slack the outhaul for a DDW run takes planing, timing and coordination to pull off without stopping the boom swing significantly mid-course change. You probably won't have time on a short course. You have an advantage of ballast due to your size, learn to use it. Keep the stick as vertical as possible. Also, get Jackdaw to advise you. I haven't read anyone else's posts on SBO that knows more about racing than him. Wax the bottom of your boat, if that's legal, I don't know racing rules. It sounds like you've got the theory down, so become a well oiled machine. And learn to read the wind. Being in the right wind can make all the difference. I've been left drifting at the head of a flotilla of floundering racers by one lone skipper who had the right wind while the rest of us just sat and gawked as she crossed the finish line on the outside line. Very frustrating. - Will (Dragonfly) Click to expand

JohnShannon said: Oh I have heard about 400 wet sand paper on the bottom not wax at all. Also try to be at the start line at speed when the gun goes off. Click to expand

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$ 9,900.00

The Club FJ is a tough, agile performer for beginners to elite sailors. The Club is a fantastic choice for clubs and junior programs looking to introduce young sailors to double-handed sailing with a spinnaker. Our Collegiate version (no spinnaker) is the most popular boat in college sailing.

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Introduces young sailors to double-handed sailing The Club FJ is a tough, agile performer for beginners to elite sailors. The Club is a fantastic choice for clubs and junior programs looking to introduce young sailors to double-handed sailing with a spinnaker. Our Collegiate version (no spinnaker) is the most popular boat in college sailing; more collegiate sailing teams in North America sail our FJ than any other double-handed sailboat.

The International Flying Junior or FJ is a sailing dinghy which was originally designed in 1955 in the Netherlands by renowned boat designer Van Essen and Olympic sailor Conrad Gülcher. The FJ was built to serve as a training boat for the then Olympic-class Flying Dutchman. The FJ has a beam of 4’11” and an overall sail area of 100 square feet (9.3 m 2 ). These dimensions make the FJ an ideal class to teach young sailors the skills of boat handling and racing.

The Club FJ has a Vela gray hull and deck.

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Almost all high school scholastic sailing is done in one of two major boat classes: the 420 or the FJ. Both are 14-foot double-handed “dinghys” sailed by a skipper—who steers the boat and handles the main sail—and a crew—who balances the boat and handles the jib (front sail). A small number of regattas are sailed in single-handed Laser sailboats.

At home regattas and at practice, NTS sails on E420 sailboats owned by the Chicago Yacht Club.

The E420 is a scholastic version of the C420 (Club 420), which is a boat many NTS sailors sail in the non-scholastic season when club sailing . The E420 omits the spinnaker and trapeze hardware on the C420 and ads a positively-buoyant sealed bow. Both are related to the I420 (International 420) used in Europe and the 470 class sailed in the Olympics.

Flying Junior (FJ)

To the untrained eye, an FJ looks almost indistinguishable from a 420.

The FJ has its origins in the Netherlands, where it was originally developed in 1955 as a trainer for the Olympic-class Flying Dutchman. Technically, the version used in the United States today is the CFJ, which is slightly different from the International FJ used in Europe.

Want an easy way for to tell the difference between a 420 and an FJ? All FJs in the U.S. have the class indicator “CFJ” on the mainsail.

Hosts Provide Boats

The host of every high school regatta is responsible to provide the boats sailed by all competitors. Sailors rotate through the fleet of boats during a regatta to make sure no team has an advantage due to the boat(s) sailed.

When NTS sailors travel to away regattas, they may well sailing in either 420s or FJs. The 420 is almost ubiquitous in the Midwest, but on the coasts sailors will find a mix of 420s or FJs.

The Laser is another 14-foot sailboat class. It is designed to be sailed single-handed (i.e. just a skipper). There are a small number of high school scholastic events sailed in Lasers. For these events sailors provide their own boats.

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11-07-2021, 15:38
	as a teenager which I took out a couple times and extremely enjoyed. I'm looking at a 14 ft FJ vs. McGregor25 or Catalina22. We live in El Paso so anywhere I would want to go I would pretty much have to haul it. It's about 9 hours to the coast of and similar distance to . I'm looking for something I can practice on but would like to use also to make some adventurous trips such as to . I saw some FJs sailing in Bay. If you weren't doing anything overnight could you sail an FJ safely to or is it too much open ? I just don't want to over right now. I don't mind spending the but if I'm honest with myself my time is pretty limited and I'd rather have something smaller sitting in the driveway.

11-07-2021, 16:03
Boat: Current yacht:Alden 46, previous yachts:Cavalier 32, Joshua steel ketch -12m, Traveller 32,Rawson 30	Island: You do it in a 14ft FJ, was right and you and your crew are experienced sailors. Unless the has flotation you could self-right it if you , I wouldnt even think about it. Also, once you get to the island, where are you going to sleep and could you carry bedding, , etc for camping out (because you cant do a round trip in a day). As a teenager, I did that trip in an extremely fast, planing, 16ft , a 505. We left on a raging Santa Anna (hot easterly off the desert), did the 26 miles in 3 hours with me hanging on the trapeze the whole time. Spent 2 nights there and the wnd changed to the usual N.W. and we had another fast ride back to L.A. It was a hoot, but both the and I were very experienced sailors. I suggest you get a 20-25ft sailor, and learn to sail it in protected waters (lakes?) before you attempt the trip to . Good luck!

11-07-2021, 16:22
	versus FJ? Would an FJ be ok practicing in bay? Coast of Texas protected waterways?

11-07-2021, 16:48
	relying on one crew to be the ballast. He becomes "ballast" by hiking out and dragging his butt in the about midships while handling the . The other guy handles the and the mainsheet . As you are a self-professed [which is MUCH MORE respectable than being a "cowboy":-)], I would think that you should NOT take an FJ into open water in anything more than sea state 2! I say that having taught I don't know how many "greenies" to sail Enterprise dinghies which, on a moderately foggy day, you cannot tell apart from the FJs :-)! If you try an LA to Catalina in an FJ you WILL , and when (not if!) you do that, you are likely to go glug-glug! Skip the McGregors (of any type). If you have the choice, go with the Catalina22 or better still a Cal20. The Catalina22 is a centerboarder but has enuff form stability that you can single-hand her because you don't need human ballast! The Cat20 better than the Catalina22 because she has a fin , and she is still light enuff to . With a of only 3 1/2 feet she doesn't sit very much higher on a trailer than the Catalina22. Given decent vehicle management you won't know the difference. Good luck to you :-)! TrentePieds

11-07-2021, 16:57
Boat: Cal 40 (sold). Still have a Hobie 20

11-07-2021, 17:13

11-07-2021, 17:29
	this following week passing through arizona, Southern California and Northern California so I'm looking at all the available in those areas. Will be bringing it back with a pilot with a 5000-lb towing capacity. I see a 25 . TrentePieds- I imagine that would also be a recommended boat in your mind? Imagine it's similar to the just bigger? 25 MK1 It might be a middle ground boat? Something to grow into but that would also be good for a lot of environments? Do these things need a crane to put in the water?

11-07-2021, 18:02
	just bigger?" Just precisely so. The Cal25 Mark I is a wonderful "entry level" boat: well, totally uncomplicated, easy for a to handle, can handle a fair bit of and wave. I would not hesitate to take a Cal25 Mark I across Strait in sea state 5. Ditto, LA to Catalina. At 4K lbs you would, when you add the weight of the trailer, be maxing out you towing capacity, but if you keep the boat's clobber out of her, and loaded properly in your vehicle, you'll be alright. is 6" more than the Cal20, so the Centre of Gravity on the trailer is gonna be that much higher, calling for a little more caution when towing. The bugaboo when trailering any boat like this is, of course, to ship and unship the effortlessly, so if you want to go this we can talk about that :-) I have no idea what launching ramps are like where you are. You'll need a that is long enough (at high-ish tides at least) to give you a five foot of water at the water end of the . If you have that, you won't need a crane. But since you'll be up to you towing limit with the , you must be careful about the steepness of the ramp. If the ramp is long and the gradient is gentle, you will NOT get five feet of water under the by the time the water on the ramp is up to you rear suspension on the car. There are ways to modify a garden variety trailer to compensate for that. Note please, that the Cal25 Mark II, is an entirely different boat, one I don't like as much as a teaching boat due to some design characteristics that IMO make the boat inferior as a sailer to the Mark I. The Mark II was, I venture to say, brought to market sporting the "Cal 25" badge in order to capitalize on the good reputation of the Mark I. TP

11-07-2021, 18:21
	, but not trailerable. Well, any boat is trailerable, but the 36 was pulled by a semi. All Cals have a fixed keel, by the way. The leaves Catalina 22s. I beg to differ from the statement made above, but they sit a lot lower on the trailer and are easy to launch. It makes the trip to Catalina well and offers a to cook and sleep in. It's also a nice boat in which to learn to sail. In fact we've not only taken a Cat 22 to Catalina, but to island. Smallest boat there but we were there. We also had a Cat 25, which is lighter than a Cal 25 and used a 3/4 ton truck to pull it. It also had a swing keel. I would not take a 14' boat to Catalina under any conditions. It's a 5 hr sail and if the wind comes up you're screwed. Boris

11-07-2021, 18:27

11-07-2021, 18:38

11-07-2021, 19:23
Boat: Cal 40 (sold). Still have a Hobie 20	25. It is a standard swing keel boat, it is not water ballasted.

11-07-2021, 19:30
	, and then the point is moot, methinks. Around here a simple in and out at a reputable marina would cost about Can$300 for a Cal25. If you do hire any old crane, you need to ensure that the crane has webbing slings and spreader bars as part of its . You also need to be there when setting up for the hoist so you can tell the operator just exactly where the slings have to go in order to ensure that no damage is done to the . I have nothing at all against the Catalina22, I merely stated my own, personal preference for the Cal 20, and by extension for the Cal25, as TEACHING boats, having had considerable experience teaching novices on the Cal20. In many ways it is as nimble as a dinghy and of course (as is the Catalina22) un-capsizable. Quaintly, in a good half century of sailing, the only time I've ever doubted that I would reach shore again was in a Cal20. The fault that led to the "difficulty" was mine. NOT the boat's. The sailing qualities of the boat and its handiness saved my butt :-)! TP

11-07-2021, 19:54

Boat: Cal 20

11-07-2021, 19:59

Boat: Cal 40 (sold). Still have a Hobie 20

YC in part for the crane.

You would need to call the in the areas to want to sail. Even the ones without cranes probably know where one is that could put your boat in.

Ive been sailing for 35y and would take an FJ to Catalina but I wouldnt recommend it to anybody with less than about 3 or so years experience.

Cat 22 would be a good starter. Cal 25 would be better if you can leave it in the water.

has a lot of creature comforts but but is kind of a hybrid power sailor whose sailing characteristics leave a lot to be desired. If you are unsure whether you want to go power or sail it would be a good starter to help you figure outs.

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