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SANDIPIPER 565 19 Pages

Catalog excerpts

Rigging instructions and general information Reproduced with permission for C&L Boatworks, Fort Erie Ontario

(Rigging Instructions from the Original owners manual - circa 1973) The SANDPIPER 565 sailing sloop was first manufactured in 1972 by Messrs. Sandpiper Marine Ltd. of Southampton, England, and was built under licence by C&L Boatworks located in Fort Erie, Ontario This seaworthy and stable yacht has many desirable features, and with its' retractable keel is so adaptable for trailering, launching and beaching that its owners can enjoy sailing in many different waters. Outstanding amongst its characteristics is the carefully designed and extremely dry cockpit with its high coaming for...

Item numbers and description of parts 4 Sliding hatch cover 7 Jib sheet jamb cleat 9 Jib sheet slider block 28 Anchor & chain locker 34 Port quarter berth 38 Starboard quarter berth 39 Port forward berth 42 Main cabin floor 43 Starboard forward berth

GENERAL RIGGING INSTRUCTIONS FOR SANDPIPER 565 Introductory Comments: In order that these instructions may be comprehensible to comparative newcomers to sailing, they are written in elementary terms and an attempt is made to explain the meaning of nautical words when they occur. Most experienced sailors have their own ideas on how to rig their boat, but these instructions are intended to provide a basis from which the new owner of a SANDPIPER 565 can begin. The mast when "stepped", i.e. erected, is supported by three wire stays collectively called the standing rigging. All three have an eye...

Shroud wires A7 are both the same lengths. Attach eye end A6 to mast tang A19 on each side Of mast at 3/4 height from mast heel using headed clevis pins and split pins. Insert shrouds A7 into slot in outboard end of spreader tubes AB and secure with split pins. -Set spreaders at right angle to mast and with downward tension on shroud wires tape together tightly. Attach turnbuckle AIO right hand threaded fork end to lower end of shroud eye end A6 with clevis Pin and split pin. Forestay wire A9 attach eye end A6 to houndband AS using clevis pin and split pin. Attach turnbuckle AID right hand...

Reproduced with permission for C&L Boatworks, Fort Erie Ontario

2. Running Rigging and the Boom The running rigging comprises the halyards, which hoist the sails, and the sheets, which control their position when sailing. There are two halyards. One, which runs up the front face of the mast and down the back face, is the Main Halyard and consists of a wire with a braided rope tail, and is used to hoist the mainsail. The other halyard consists of a braided rope which runs outside of the mast through a swivel pulley located below the forestay wire mast tang. This the Jib Halyard and hoists the The boom is the spar, which is attached to the mast and to the...

The forward edge of the mainsail and jib is called the LUFF. In the case of the jib there is an internal wire running up the luff, whereas the mainsail has a rope edge (the luff rope) attached to the luff. The lower edge of the sail is called the FOOT, and the other edge the LEECH. There are four pockets extending into the mainsail from its leech and four battens are provided to stiffen the after edge of the sail. The corners of the sail are provided with eyes called CRINGLES. The top corner of each sail is its HEAD; the forward bottom corner its TACK and the aft bottom corner its CLEW. At...

5. Jibsheet and Mainsheet arrangements Reeve jibsheet F2 (3/8" x 40ft. Dacron line) through the jib clew El until it is even on both sides. Knot each side of the clew eye with a single overhand knot. Pass lines one each side of front face of mast and reeve each end through the jib sliding block F3 located on port and starboard side decks near cabin window. Pass- each sheet end through the jamb cleat combination block eye FI. Tie a figure eight knot close to the end of each sheet to stop it escaping the eye. Attach the swivel of the single sheave block Dl to the link plate B2 at the clew end...

open leech. If the sail has a very full luff, then a Cunningham line should be used to tighten the excess luff to flatten the sail for heavy airs. (b) Boom tackle: see figure 6 To control the extent to which the boom can lift when sailing, a tackle known as a kicking strap, or boom vang, is provided. In its simplest form it comprises a short wire strop attached to the mast bracket at one end and the other end of a vee jamb block with a "D" shackle and clevis pin. Another block with a special keyhole lug is snapped into the fitting underneath the boom. A lanyard is reeved through the two...

íiaíJisheet and kiclcinp strop airain^ ernenta, Item numberg and Description Boom vang assembly Single becket block i"lanyard Dacron line Wire strop Mainsbeet assembly D2 3/8" Dacron line (inaansheet) D3 Sister block and jatrib cleat

Having learned how to bend (rig) and hoist the sails by practicing ashore several times, the boat should be launched with the sails lowered. The boat should be secured to a dock or mooring. IT IS MOST IMPORTANT TO WATCH FOR LOW OVERHEAD HYDRO WIRES when stepping the mast prior to launching and again when lowering the mast after winching on a trailer, especially at an unfamiliar site. (a) Retractable Keel arrangement: see figure 7, The operation of the keel, which is raised and lowered manually, must be checked before preparation for sailing. Move the boat into minimum depth of 3 ft. of...

03 - Bidder Assembly Datila 8 JX m Retractabas keel as s enibjy details Reproduced with permission for C&L Boatworks, Fort Erie Ontario

In light weather you should experience very little trouble with full mainsail and genoa in handling all points of sailing with your SANDPIPER 565. If you have been used to a lighter boat you will find the SANDPIPER 565 will take just that much longer to tack, gybe or bear off, so do not at first get too close to moored, or other craft while In moderate to heavy weather the answer is to reduce sail by reefing and to use a small jib. The method of reefing the mainsail has already been explained. To change jibs when afloat is rather difficult as it means going on the foredeck to reach the...

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• Sailboat Guide

Sandpiper 565

Sandpiper 565 is a 18 ′ 6 ″ / 5.6 m monohull sailboat designed by Leonardo da Costa Sayago and built by C&L Boatworks starting in 1972.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The SANDPIPER 565 was first manufactured in 1972 by Sandpiper Marine Ltd. of Southampton, England. Later built by CL Sailboats (formerly C&L Boatworks) of Canada. (Royalties not paid) Another version was built under license in Sweden called OCKELBO OS 19.

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Thinking of buying a Sandpiper had a few question

• Thread starter Jamie
• Start date Aug 8, 2006
• Brand-Specific Forums
• Other Sailboats

I was thinking of buying a sandpiper. I have no idea how to sail and my first question is would this be a good boat to learn on. Also is there much maintenance on a boat like this. Third question is how long of a trip could I go on with a boat like this. Would I be able to Sail from PEI to say the Magdalen Islands safely or would that be to far a trip for one of these boats. If so anyone know how long it would take to make a journey like that at an average speed. Any info would be greatly appreciated.  

The Sandpiper as a first boat I learned to sail ( We never stop to learn really!) on a Sandpiper. I still sail on her and I have no plan to change boat. I think it is a very good boat to learn on. It is safe and stable as many bigger boats but it requires good attention at the same times. About maintenance, I could say "Big boat+ big troubles and $$$. The Piper is a simple and modest little boat but it is rock solid. It is not very fast ( + or- 5 knots) in a good wind but I dont see why it could not engage in short sea going voyages as you mention.These boats were made in England some times ago and many were sailing in the english channel. It tells something about its sea going capacities.  

David Stanley Smith ([email protected])

first boat I would recommend the Sandpiper as a first boat. However, every small boat is a compromise of price, performance, portability(including launch and recovery ease), towing weight, accomodation, seaworthiness, resale value, etc. Furthermore, one's choice is also determined by what's available. I think around 1200 Sandpipers were built, so there's usually one available somewhere. Then there's the matter of rigging. If you do everything alone, then the lighter the rig, the easier it is to step the mast etc. Some years ago, I owned a West Wight Potter 15, and rigging and launching was total simplicity. I next owned a Siren 17 and found the rig easy to pop up single handed without any lifting mechanism. The Sandpiper rig is a little heavier again, but can still be raised by one person. However, I would like an additionl person available during mast raising and launching. Towing weight is also an issue. A Sandpiper with trailer, gear,and outboard could weigh around 1600 pounds or more. This is at or beyond the towing limit of some four-cylinder cars. With my Potter, it was an easy matter to launch for a short afternoon sail. Launching the Sandpiper for a short sail is more of a time commitment. Learning to sail one of these boats is not difficult. I would suggest finding someone who knows how to sail to go along with you a couple of times in order to learn the technique. As for maintenance, it really depends on how fussy you are about appearance and whether the boat has been looked after by the previous owner(s). I keep my boat under a full tarp in the off season and keep the boat cut-polished and waxed. I also keep all the woodwork varnished and have added many little "improvements"; consequently, I probably do more maintenance than others. Would I take the boat offshore? To some degree, yes, but I think boats like the Sandpiper are really designed as coastal boats, so in my opinion, a sixty mile offshore trip might be pushing the limit. (I have the indulgence of a second boat--a twin keel British Westerly--if I want to venture farther). I have equipped my Sandpiper with reinforced stanchion and rail supports and complete lifelines etc., but would still think twice about straying too far offshore. After all, the Sandpiper has a fairly light rig. People have sailed smaller boats across oceans, but they are usually VERY experienced, and the boats are usually modified and reinforced to some degree. Good luck on your search for a Sandpiper.  

New Sandpiper owner After years of ski boats and jet skis, I just got a sandpiper (hull 704) from my wife for our 30th anniversary. I had checked out a number of other boats with sailer friends, and glad I did as this is one awesome lot of fun to sail. Still very much in leaning mode - I now know what a boomvang is and to yell hard a lee when I am turning, but I am really enjoying getting out and just sailing.Are there other owners in the Maritimes??Mike  

I'll echo the previous posters Hi Jamie. I have owned my Sandpiper for 6 years now. It is my first sailboat, and has been a joy to own and sail. It's a terrific boat to learn about sailing, which is the trailering, rigging launching, sailing and boat maintenance. It is great for trailering around to various destinations, and pretty easy to rig and launch. As David said, boats are a compromise. The Potter and Siren he mentions are perhaps easier to rig up, but lack the cabin space of a 'piper. Maintenance is up to you. If you find a boat that is a fixer upper, then of course you will have some work to do. These boat were made from the early '70;s to the early mid 80's, so how they have been looked after by previous owners is very important. I would advise you to get someone with some experience to look over any possible purchase before laying your money down. The best person to evaluate a boat is a surveyor, but they cost money. A surveyor is a little overkill for a Sandpiper, but it may be your only choice. ALL sailboats require maintenance of some sort. I'd have to say from my experiences, from reading forums, magazines, and talking to other sailors, that the Sandpiper's maintenance requirements are moderate, to minimal(depending on personal preference and the quaity of the boat to start with). Also due to it's size, rigging, sails and parts are less expensive.As far as cruising is concerned, I've stayed aboard for 4 days, with one crew, or with my two sons. Others have cruised for a week or more. Read up as much as you can about boats and sailing. I read Sailing for Dummies, when I first got my boat. It's an easy book to read, and covers just about everything you'll need to know to sail a Sandpiper.Good luck in your search.Eric  

Got good news for u I have enjoyed a sandpiper for 5-6 years now, we had sailed bigger boats with bigger commitments before and have indeed appreciated her simplicity and ease of maneuvring. She's a doll. I was looking at the market, trying to find comparables, but there appear to be none fos sale anywhere! People just hang on to them, as they are so convenient and affordable to keep, I guess. So let me know if you're still on the market, as I will be taking pictures and posting ads on boats.com and possibly ebay. She is in exceptional shape, with lots of extras (newer motor, dodger + full cockpit enclosure, barbecue, upgrade interior and perfect gelcoat and teak all around)It's still at her dock, will probably be ou by next week-end, so if you want to take her out, reply soon!Paul[email protected]450-458-3200  

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Boat Profile

An easily built skiff for sail and oar

From Issue   Small Boats Annual 2022 May 2021

C onrad Natzio originally designed the 14′ Sandpiper for a workshop and demonstration at the Boat ’99 show in the United Kingdom. The first four of these attractive little sailing and rowing skiffs were built by groups of beginners with a bit of supervision over a four-day period at that show, using only the hand tools found in a typical do-it-yourselfer’s kit. The primary considerations in Sandpiper’s design were the ease and speed of construction. The Sandpiper is intended for sheltered, shallow water, and inland sailing or rowing. The weight was kept to a minimum to make trailering and launching quick and easy.

My 17-year-old son, Kyle, built the Sandpiper as his senior project that he needed to complete for graduation from high school. Neither of us had built a boat before, but a boat that could be built by beginners in four days gave us hope that we could complete the task in the four months left in the school year. Before ordering the plans, we spent a few hours taping together cardboard strips cut from cereal boxes to create some crude models and prove to ourselves that such an attractive hull shape could actually be achieved by using flat, straight-edged panels.

The plan set supplied by Conrad included two large plan sheets with scaled drawings, and a 10-page booklet—a reprint from Practical Woodworking , the magazine that sponsored the Boat ’99 project—with detailed instructions and helpful photos taken during the construction of the prototype. Our boatbuilding project was given a boost by a master-carpenter neighbor who agreed to become Kyle’s advisor for the project and let us move some of his power tools into our greenhouse-turned-workshop. While this gave us the advantage of having an array of tools considerably beyond the average household toolkit, as well as invaluable woodworking advice whenever we needed it, none of the techniques required to build this little skiff would be beyond the scope of the average skill set.

Instead of building the sides of the skiff around frames fixed to a strongback, the sides are bent and the frames are built into them. A long table extended with sheets of plywood supports the work; a strongback is not required.

Construction of the Sandpiper hull is fairly straightforward and requires four sheets of 1/4″ plywood and some 3/4″ lumber for frames and longitudinal elements. Neither lofting, strongback, nor building jig is required. A set of sawhorses that can be fastened to the floor bring the work up to a comfortable level and provides a firm foundation for any required planing or sawing. We made the frames out of 3/4″ Douglas-fir that had been milled from big-box-store 2x4s and then assembled to the plan dimensions with double plywood gussets. (When our carpenter neighbor noticed the finished 3/4″ pieces, he remarked that we could have saved a lot of time by just by buying 3/4″ fir flooring.) Most of the fastening was done with bronze ring-shank nails and polyurethane glue. The straight-edged side panels were glued up from two pieces of 1/4″ marine plywood, as was the bottom panel. To get the lengths needed for the sides and bottom, each panel required a butt-block joint, secured with glue and copper rivets. The 1/4″-thick butt blocks were hardly noticeable in the boat’s interior, and the smooth seams on the outside almost disappeared under a few coats of paint.

The straight-edged panels get their shape from the curve from stem to transom; the bottom gets its rocker and the sheer its sweep from the sides’ flare.

After the ends of the plywood sides were cut to the angle specified in the plans, the attractive hull took shape by bending them around the ’midship frame. We constructed the three main frames and the transom frame from our pile of 3/4″ stock, carefully choosing the best, knot-free pieces. Once the sides were bent and secured to the frames and transom, we flipped the hull over onto a pair of sawhorses to work on the external chine logs, which provide a wide surface for attaching the bottom. They, along with the plywood sides they’re attached to, need to be planed to create a flat surface to accept the bottom piece. A 4′ level was all it took to check the accuracy of the bevel. The oversized bottom panel is held down with weights and traced inside and out to create a perfect fit.

T he completed Sandpiper was remarkably light. Conrad claims 132 lbs for the hull, and I think Kyle’s build came in very close to that weight. When doing any seasonal maintenance while the boat is on the trailer, I can easily lift one side up and slip a foam block or cushion under it to gain a little extra clearance over the trailer bunk. I can roll the skiff off the trailer singlehandedly, but I prefer another set of hands if I need to roll it over for any bottom work.

Trailering the Sandpiper is almost effortless, even with our four-cylinder car. It slides easily on the trailer’s carpeted bunks and, if we are planning to sail, we hang the rudder in advance. The design calls for an endplate of double-layered 1/4″ plywood, 4-1/2″ wide on the bottom of the rudder, which keeps it even with the bottom of the hull. The endplate gives the rudder a better grip in the water, especially when the boat is heeled while sailing. The twin bilge keels, as they are called in the plans, are 3”-deep runners on the bottom that are designed to give the Sandpiper windward sailing ability in thin water. They also serve as helpful guides between the trailer bunks to keep the boat aligned on the trailer during launch and retrieval. Set well away from the centerline, these runners turn the boat into a steady platform on the beach, and they help to protect the bottom when dragged over a log or gravel bar on the river.

With a solo rower aboard, the Sandpiper sits lightly on the water.

The three thwarts in the design provide ample seating, and Kyle has made river rowing outings with as many as five young people aboard. The center thwart and forward thwart serve as the rowing stations. We have never shipped two pairs of oars, and that likely would require a passenger in the stern for trim. The bilge keels keep the Sandpiper tracking beautifully under oars while the generous rocker in the hull allows for easy, graceful turns. The boat carries its way well between strokes. The 8’ oars we use are too long to stow beneath the thwarts, so we usually bungee them to the seat risers on either side. When the boat is rigged for sail, the bow thwart is crowded by the mast, but it is still usable as a rowing station for short pulls without dropping the sailing rig.

The bilge keels help with windward sailing in shallow water, but for sailing in deeper water, Conrad includes a scaled drawing for a Bolger-type leeboard, which leaves the space in the center of the boat completely open. A passenger can sit on a cushion between the forward and center thwarts and, with an extra cushion for a backrest, have a comfortable, safe position low enough to be clear of the foot of the sail during tacks or jibes. The absence of a centerboard trunk makes it easy to switch positions and stay on the upwind side. For our camping trips, we added two removable sections of slatted floorboards either side of the central frame to help keep gear and our rear ends dry. The floorboards would be useful for a solo camp-cruiser to provide a flat, dry platform for sleeping, but they also add some unneeded weight. Since we are mostly daysailing in protected waters, we leave them in the garage until they’re needed.

With three aboard, the boat still has plenty of freeboard.

Conrad gives some indications of possible flotation schemes for the Sandpiper in his booklet. Included with the plans are pictures of Conrad singlehandedly capsizing and refloating the boat, but it is evident that he is in shallow water on a calm day and probably standing on the bottom. There is room in both the bow and stern to build in airtight or foam-filled flotation compartments. We considered adding rigid foam under the thwarts or lashing inflatable beach rollers to the seat risers, and if more ambitious expeditions were anticipated, those type of additions might be wise. In our protected sailing grounds, we have not felt that those extra measures are necessary.

The plans provide drawings for a standing (balanced) lug sail or a spritsail sloop with a mainsail area of 57.6 sq ft and a jib of 12.7 sq ft; we chose the latter, and added a sprit boom to keep the sail in a better shape when going downwind while also keeping the cockpit free of low-hanging lumber. The spritsail rig appealed to us for its traditional look and the lightness of each spar. We anticipated a lot of close tacking while river sailing, and liked the idea of being able to back the jib to aid in those maneuvers.

The main is laced to the mast with the throat lashed to the masthead. While it can’t be lowered, removing the sprit and folding the sail along the throat-to-clew diagonal—known as scandalizing—is an effective way of reducing sail area. The jib has a halyard and its two sheets are led through cam cleats set in oarlock sockets (as learned from an article on techniques in this magazine). The mainsheet has evolved from getting looped behind the aft stub of the riser and changed from side to side on each tack, to running through a pulley lashed to the sprit boom and a fiddle block on a rope horse over the tiller.

The single leeboard slips over the gunwale; its two parallel legs, set inboard, straddle the central frame rib. The leeboard’s lateral area is especially effective for sailing closehauled and, with a little practice, the board can be raised easily when coming into a beach or to reduce drag when sailing off the wind. The leeboard sets parallel to the flared side, so it is close to vertical when set on the windward side, and sharply angled when to leeward, but we have not seen much difference in the leeway made from one tack to the other while leaving the board set on one side. The leeboard does not pivot, so we have suffered a few unfortunate groundings at speed that snapped one of the supporting legs. This season we will be experimenting with a pivoting board set on a robust frame.

The spritsail sloop rig carries 57.6 sq ft in the main and 12.7 sq ft in the jib. The sprit boom was added by the builder to increase the spread of the main on downwind runs.

The only major modification we made to the original design was purely an accommodation for this aging skipper. The sprit rig uses three spars (mast, sprit, and sprit boom), which all stow within the boat for trailering. For 10 years I was happy picking up all three spars with the sails laced on and slipping the mast butt through the forward thwart and into its step. But last year, on increasingly unsteady legs, I found it more difficult to get the mast raised safely. We have constructed an oak tabernacle so that I can easily and safely pivot the rig upright. With this new arrangement I hope to derive another decade’s enjoyment of this sweet little boat.

Dan Pratt lives in the Pioneer Valley of Western Massachusetts where he almost swallowed the anchor 30 years ago to start a small organic farm. Canoeing on rivers, lakes, and ponds for over a decade left him wanting more than just the wind in his hair, and created a craving for wind in a sail. Having turned his back on small-boat racing and Buzzard’s Bay camp-cruising so many years ago, he was delighted when his youngest son took up boatbuilding.

Sandpiper Particulars

Length: 13′ 9″

Beam: 4′ 8″

Hull weight: 132 lbs

Sail area, sloop: 70 sq ft

January 2024: The designer’s website is no longer active but plans are still available. You can reach designer Conrad Natzio via email at [email protected] or by phone in the UK at +44 1394 382537.

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats Magazine readers would enjoy? Please email us!

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Comments (7)

Beautiful design, simple although elegant. I have the plans for this boat and perhaps it’s time I get started building. While the price of ply is crazy right now, life is short at best. I bought these plans years ago when a check in Sterling was possible in my area, that said, I’d like a couple other of Mr. Natzio’s plans although have discovered it’s very difficult to obtain a check in Sterling now. Any suggestions?

Perhaps a mail money order or a bank transfer if Conrad Natzio gives you the bank account number. I think also PayPal could be used.

Thanks for the feedback.

I would be interested in the design of the tabernacle mentioned in the article. Also how is sailing with just the sprit sail, no jib?

Can anyone direct me to a link where I can order these plans?

Try email [email protected] Also, his address: 15 Lanyard Place, Woodbridge, Suffolk IP12 1FE, United Kingdom.

These data are from his advertisement. In 2023 I bought Sandpiper plans.

I’ve been in touch with the designer and while his website is no longer active, plans are still available. You can reach designer Conrad Natzio via email at [email protected] or by phone in the UK at +44 1394 382537.

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The hull is designed for simplified chine-log construction, which eliminates the necessity for a strongback or jig. All the plywood parts except the rudder fit onto just four 4′ x…

The boat handles beautifully in most anything I’m comfortable taking on in an 18’ boat. It turns exceptionally well when I’m cruising winding rivers, and on hard turns at speed…

Down East Workboat

Gardner drew the design in 1981, basing it on old photographs and measurements of an 18′ workboat from Washington County, Maine. He described the design as a double wedge, the…

The Crawford Melonseed Skiff

The cockpit is a little over 6′ long—big enough for two people and a picnic. There’s room up under the deck for a cooler, anchor, and other gear, and a…

Designed to be light, the Savo 650D’s keelson, gunwales, and frames are made of pine or spruce. The fully equipped boat weighs in at just over 100 lbs. The length…

The Wittholz Catboat

The plans for the 17′ 1″ plywood catboat include 11 sheets with good construction detail: materials, dimensions, fastening schedules, notes, and comments. Several alternatives are included: self-bailer instead of deep…

Don’t Tell Me I Can’t

“A little too big” came back to me as I stood in a lumberyard collecting the first of the materials for building a Greenland skin-on-frame kayak, but the echoes of…

Elfyn sails very well without the daggerboard, even tacking into the wind. When returning to our launch ramp against a light headwind, I raised the daggerboard and Elfyn kept on…

In a word, my overall impression of the boat’s performance under way was: “Easy.” With 300 lbs of crew (my daughter and myself) and 200 lbs of foam-wrapped lead ballast…

Dan has been drawing, painting, and sculpting for the better part of his life and has an artist’s eye. He recalls, “I got to thinking that wood could be an…

Built by the Book

The lockdown in New Zealand began on March 23 and David stayed home to do his part in slowing the spread of COVID-19. He focused on his canoe projects and…

A Kid-Built Curragh

In 2019, Ric took on a more ambitious project, a currach, with his fourth and fifth graders. The frame of their version of the traditional Irish rowing boat, built without…

More Boat Profile

Caledonia Yawl II

The original Caledonia Yawl, a rugged 19′ 6″ double-ended beach boat designed by Iain Oughtred for clinker plywood construction, has four strakes; this second iteration has seven, and was originally…

The Murrelet kayak has ample leg room but a very low after deck, which makes it easy to lie back when executing a roll.

microBootlegger

The microBootlegger is an elegant, cedar-strip boat that is a joy to paddle. Designed by Nick Schade of Guillemot Kayaks for use on small lakes or sheltered bays, it was…

The Rhodes 18

Designed in 1938 by the legendary Philip Rhodes, the Rhodes 18 was first commissioned as a junior trainer for the Stamford (Connecticut) Yacht Club, and as such it is a…

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