sailboat anchor sail

How to Anchor a Sailboat

One of the most vital skills for a sailor is oftentimes one of the most confounding ones. Setting the hook in all the different types of anchorages you’re likely to end up in can be confusing to new boaters. Despite how perplexing it can be, this skill is incredibly important, lest you find yourself waking in the middle of the night to the sound of your boat dragging anchor towards rocks.

Good technique and properly-sized equipment for anchoring is vital. Yet, more times than not, even experienced sailors are distracted or in a hurry and skip one of the vital steps for anchoring securely. Even worse, some new sailors never learn the essentials and just throw any anchor-shaped hunk of metal overboard, hoping for the best. That tactic isn’t likely to keep you safe while you slumber so let’s go through what you should do instead.

Table of contents

A Little Forethought

The first thing to do when you’re going to anchor is to pick an anchorage. This may already seem like a lot, but picking a good spot is crucial. You must understand the conditions of that spot before tossing your anchor into the water and calling it good.

Use the chart you purchased or printed out, making a note of all the vital information. Things like wind direction and speed, tidal currents, and even the forecast can be important pieces of the puzzle. Pay extra attention to anything that might reverse the direction your boat is being pulled to prevent having your anchor pulled out.

The best spot is going to have some protection from the wind and waves. You would prefer to have a sand or mud bottom as opposed to a rock or heavy grass bottom. If you have a brand new chart, it’s probably going to have information on the bottom characteristics as well as some of those good spots marked out. You should also make sure that your spot is a few feet deeper than the draft of your boat during low tide.

Once you’ve picked your spot, it’s time to prepare the anchor. Whether lowered by hand or on a roller, make sure the anchor rode is free to run. If it isn’t marked at progressive depths with tags or color codes, stretch it back and forth on deck to keep track of how much rode you’re letting out. For safety’s sake, plan out at least 6 times the water depth.

Actual Anchoring

The actual technique of anchoring can be a bit tricky to learn but can buy you some peace of mind once mastered. Knowing your boat isn’t going to slip off into the night or ram into a neighbor because your anchor dragged can be a massive relief. No one wants to awaken to a bump in the night.

First, you have to actually position the boat where you want to anchor. For motorsailers, you may find this easier to do under power. However you decide to do it, move slowly. There is no need to rush this. It’s better to take a long time on a secure anchor than to rush and drag later. Once you’re over the position, drop anchor. Be careful not to drop a ton of chain on top of your anchor.

Once the anchor is on the seabed, let the boat drift back gradually as you pay out chain. Don’t disturb the anchor yet. For the anchor to work, you want to pull horizontally along the seabed. You are setting the scope as you pay out the chain. The goal is to get the anchor to pull at 15° to 20°. Once sufficient chain has been let out, secure the anchor chain on deck.

Now we have to wait for the anchor to dig in and take its initial set. Once you have the initial set, begin slowly moving astern until the anchor chain straightens out. While you’re moving your boat, pay very careful attention to the chain. If it jumps, that means you’re dragging anchor. If everything seems alright then feel free to hook up the snubber and let out more chain until there’s a loop of it between the snubber hook and the bow roller. Congratulations on anchoring your boat.

Additional Tips

Some additional tips and tricks are in order. This is just good information to have in the back of your mind when anchoring.

Using the Right Type of Anchor

First, your type of anchor heavily influences your ability to set the hook.  Most cruising sailboats are going to be equipped with at least two types, each with their own separate rodes. The preferred choice for the bower is generally a spade while a lightweight Danforth generally takes the spot as a kedge. Be familiar with the anchors you’re going to be using and how they’re designed to function.

It may seem strange but the good old-fashioned fisherman’s anchor isn’t going to work the same way as a modern CQR anchor. They are also going to do generally better at different sea beds.

Find the Right Size

Match the anchor you’re using to the size of your boat. All anchors are not created equal. If you’re using a 15lb anchor on a 33ft motorsailer, you are probably not going to have it easy. If you don’t appropriately size your anchor for your vessel, you are increasing the chance of dragging.

If you aren’t sure what size anchor to get, check with the boat’s manufacturer. They often have recommendations. At the end of the day, it’s alright to go on the bigger side of things. Don’t choose your anchor for reasonable conditions. Expect the absolute worst situations because you can’t change your anchor when you’re already out on the seas.

Dragging the Anchor

Understand what it really means to drop anchor. This isn’t a literal phrase. You should lower the anchor slowly. Lowering the anchor gradually prevents the chain from falling on the anchor flukes and fouling the anchor. Dropping it too quickly makes it more likely that a fouled anchor is going to drag if the wind comes up later.

Even when you’ve anchored perfectly and everything has gone according to plan, you should still check periodically.  Changing conditions could result in that perfectly-set anchor deciding to drag anyway. Before you take a load off for the night, make sure to have a few ways to tell if your boat is dragging. A modern method is a GPS which can easily reveal a change of positions.

Something a little lower tech would be a small secondary anchor with a noise maker tied to it and dangled over the cockpit. If set up correctly, when the boat moves, the secondary anchor’s rope will pull and cause the noise maker to fall down into the cockpit. If all goes as planned, you wake up to the banging and take any actions needed.

A way to verify dragging is to check the anchor rode at the bow. You may be able to see or feel changes in its tension. If the anchor is bouncing all over the place, it will be easy to spot or feel.

Anchors Aweigh

Keeping your boat from dragging and drifting into rocks, another boat, or a reef is at the top of your priority list. In order to make sure your anchor sets properly and your night of sleep isn’t interrupted by the sound of a boat running aground, it’s best to be safe rather than sorry.

Go through your plan slowly. Make sure you pick the best anchorage for your needs. Check that none of the conditions might change while you’re on the hook, causing your boat to drift in the opposite direction and pull your anchor free. Ensure that you have the right equipment to begin with and make sure to double-check the anchor before you call it a night. It’s better to stay up a little later and make sure your anchor is properly set than to wake up to bad news.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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The Difference Between Tacking And Jibing (Gybing)

7 real reasons why you should own a sailboat, how to set a sailboat anchor in 5 steps, what do you do when there is no wind.

There is really nothing quite like being secure at anchor.  After all, to properly anchor a sailboat takes preparation, the right gear, and a bit of skill.   Whether you anchor a sailboat  overnight, a quick lunch stop, or a multi hour break to refit or repair something , all competent skippers have had to learn about this one question….

How do you anchor a sailboat?  

To anchor a sailboat

• find a good spot
• reverse slow and lower the anchor
• let out suitable ‘scope’
• ‘dig it in’ using full reverse
• check landmarks.

Anchoring a sailboat safely and securely begins long before you arrive at your destination.  Properly checking your anchoring setup, having a sail plan and an informed anchoring location, following proper procedures, and regularly confirming your confidence in your set anchor are the basic principles behind any secure anchoring.

Feeling secure “on the hook” is never something a new sailor fully allows him/herself to feel.  Even for seasoned skippers, this is no time to fully let your guard down. When it comes to anchoring your sailboat, even seasoned skippers are skeptical.  After all, the vessel you are piloting is immeasurably valuable to your comfort and style, your quality of rest and relaxation, your sleep, and ultimately – possibly – your survival.

Some definitions of terms in this article:

Anchor – the big heavy hook looking thing. You’ve seen an anchor before. There are many different designs, each with specific functions for specific environments and boats.

Chain – a series of linked metal rings. You need at least 3 boat lengths worth of chain.

Rode – the rope that connects the chain to the boat.  It’s good to have about 200ft. aboard.

Cleat – a fixed point on the boat that the rode can be easily and properly secured to.

Scope – the angle of the rode between the bow, where it is cleated off, and the surface of the water.  Good scope and poor scope are described later on in the article.

Preparing For Your Trip

To anchor a sailboat, there are a few things regarding safety that you should do before you even head out for a day of sailing.  Adhere to these pre-trip principles, and you will be set up for success.

Plan your trip and know where you want to anchor. Have a backup plan if your planned anchorage is not available for whatever reason.  Tell someone your plans and your expected return date.

Check the charts and tide tables to see if you have an adequate anchor for the bottom, and sufficient rode for the water depth. Cruising guides will also tell you if the anchorage you are planning on is typically busy, and what time to get there to ensure you get a spot.

Always ensure that the anchor , the chain , and the rode are in good condition.  Anchors will rarely have a problem in and of themselves if they are not damaged or bent, chain tends to last a very long time, and the rode, although very long and tedious to check over, usually will last several seasons if treated properly.  

Important Anchor Check Points

• the place where the rode connects to the boat (called the bitter end)
• where the rode joins the chain
• where the chain joins the anchor.  These joints are usually in the form of shackles, and shackles have moving parts that wear.

Inspect the entire length of the rode for fray, but especially where it meets the chain. This end of the rope has a metal loop called the thimble , and this is where the shackle joins the rope to the chain. Rope securing metal loops is not a perfect system and may break down over the years.  

Check the movement of the shackle parts and inspect the pin that holds it all together. Sand and salt wear on these parts every time you use the anchor, and if there is a failure in your anchoring system, you have to consider this as a very probable culprit.

OK, so you’ve checked over your anchoring system before you set sail, and everything looks good.  Now it’s time to select some possible anchorages and evaluate them in line with your needs.

Characteristics of a Good Anchorage

• The area is sheltered from wind and waves, and will be for the duration of your stay.
• The water depth is sufficient for your vessel, and will be sufficient, for the duration of your stay. Always note the high and low tide depths for the area you have selected.
• There is adequate “swing room”.  Some anchorages are very popular for the above two reasons, and thus may be quite congested in the peak seasons.
• The anchor you have aboard is suitable for the bottom and will hold.

Let’s look a little deeper into each of these four areas

1. Shelter from wind and waves:

Wind and weather.

Often when you pull into an anchorage, there is a feeling of serenity about the place. This feeling is certainly amplified by the fact that you were just contending with the wild natural forces of wind and waves, and now you are ready for a reprieve from the fray.  

Weather Information

The primary way to ensure wind will not pose a threat for you during your stay at anchor is to check the weather report.  Weather reports are available over local AM or FM channels, by cell phone, at marinas, or, most reliably, found on the weather channel on your VHF radio – typically Channels Wx 01 through Wx 08.  

Fellow sailors and boaters in the area can also be a great source of information regarding weather and almost anything else boating related. Most are in their “happy place” and thrive on being of assistance to others.  

I have often found that boaters are helpful not because they are magnanimous or generous of spirit (although that may be completely true) but rather helpfulness comes from the opportunity to show how prepared they themselves are.  After all who doesn’t like confirmation of their own excellence in their element.

However your obtain weather (or any other) data, if you can establish that winds will die down during your time at anchor, or for overnight stays, you’ve probably found a great anchorage.  Even if the wind direction will be steady from one direction for the duration of your stay, you’re probably going to be OK, but this is not an ideal situation.

Definitely consider another anchorage, mooring buoys, or best case scenario, a marina if winds are going to be shifty, gusty, or if they are forecasted to increase hourly .  You do not want to drag your anchor, run aground, or swing into another boat while you sleep.

Shelter and Protection from Wave Action

The main thing to look for in an anchorage when it comes to wave action, is to find a protected cove.  This is obvious. Sheltered coves are characterised as having shore in at least two different directions, ideally three.  

In sailing terms, you want to be in the lee of an island or headland. The natural or man-made breakwater of the shores ensure that your boat will be still and at rest, so you can be too.  

In a quiet, calm anchorage, the only waves that are made are typically from smaller craft such as motorised rigid inflatable tenders, personal watercraft, and other smaller craft. It is common etiquette to maintain a “No Wake” speed in anchorages, so these sources of waves are not really much of a concern.

2. Sufficient Water Depth

If you primarily sail lakes, you do not have the issue of changing tides or currents.  To anchor a sailboat is therefore relatively straight forward.

If you sail in the ocean, a great deal of care must be taken.  Adequate water depth is certainly something to ensure, and this is best done when you use a chart of the area, a depth sounder , and a cruising guide .  

Tide Tables will also indicate the times of the changing tides, and how extreme the lows and highs will be over the course of your stay. Checking with tide and current tables is not optional when you are sailing on the ocean.  Failure to properly acquaint yourself to the area you plan to anchor could be disastrous.

3. Swing room

The majority of boats simply set an anchor and let the breeze and current swing the boat around that approximate area.  When you select a place to anchor, it is essential that you provide sufficient distance between your vessel and the nearest vessel, so that both may swing freely during the time at anchor, and not collide.  

The first boat in an anchorage must be respected and it is the second boat’s responsibility to ensure for adequate swing room. A few things to note regarding swing room:

• Boats with all chain rode typically don’t  let out as much rode as a boat with rope rode, and will have a smaller swing circle.  
• Setting anchor and stern tying to shore ensure that you will not swing at all. If you don’t swing, you can’t bump into other boats.
• Setting an anchor off the bow, then a second anchor off of the stern can also prohibit swing. Again, a viable solition if swing room is an issue. Caution: this is a recipe for seriously tangled up anchor rodes. This is not recommended!

All that being said, it is always better to err on the side of caution when anchoring and set your anchor where you are more than confident you will not be bumping up on other boats during the night.   

The Best Anchor Setting System

OK, you’ve checked over the anchor, chain and rode, and you’ve determined that the little cove you’ve sailed into is going to serve as a safe and enjoyable anchorage.  It’s not too crowded, plenty of water depth for your boat’s draft, and there is ample protection from winds and waves. Time to prepare your anchor, chain, and rode for deployment.

The procedure to anchor a sailboat:

• Identify a place where you would like your boat to end up once the anchoring process is complete.  
• Slowly, under motor power, (by slow I mean idling in gear) move your boat “ahead” of this spot,upwind is highly recommended. This could be 30, 60, or 100 feet ahead of where you actually want to anchor depending on the scope you need.  This distance you move ahead is effectively going to be the amount of chain and rode you will be letting out.
• Now that your boat is upwind or “ahead” of your desired position, lower the anchor quickly to the bottom. Do not drop or toss the anchor and chain in all at once!  Lower it hand over hand, intentionally, and with expedience so as not to tangle the chain in the anchor.
• As the anchor and chain descend to the bottom, have the helmsman begin reversing at idle speed back to where you ideally want the boat to end up.  The wind will also push you back. What you need to visualize at this point, is gently and purposefully laying the anchor and chain down in a line along the bottom as you reverse.
• When you have reversed to the place you want the boat to stay, cleat off the anchor rode to your bow, continue to reverse for about 10 – 15 seconds, and wait for the anchor to “catch” on the bottom. You will definitely feel the boat react to the friction of the anchor and chain on the bottom.  If not, try steps 1 to 4 again.
• The anchor is set! The anchor rode will all of a sudden tighten, and the boat will studder or jerk to a halt when the anchor catches. Now it’s time to really dig it in.  While still in reverse, increase throttle to about 25%. This will set the anchor into the bottom, much like a hook sets when you’re fishing.
• If there is no further reverse motion at 25% reversing throttle, you can be reasonably confident the anchor is set and holding you firmly in place.  Keep the throttle at 25% and move on to the next step.
• Now it’s time to test your anchor and indeed your confidence in it.  As a last step, roll on the throttle in reverse from 25% to about 75% and check with fixed landmarks off your beam at different ranges in the distance.  For example the top of a tree on the beach overlaying a mountain peak way off in the distance. If your boat does not move relative to these paired landmarks, the anchor is properly set .
• Use about 5 to 10 seconds to throttle down off of reverse and power down the motor.  This avoids the bounce back action of the chain sinking to the bottom and literally propelling the boat forward.  Again, site two points in the distance off your beam and make sure you are not moving. You should site these two points several times in the next few hours.  If they haven’t moved in relation to each other, then neither have you. Congratulations on properly setting anchor!

How much rode do I need to let out?

To anchor a sailboat for a quick lunch stop, you will only need to let out a ratio of 3 times the water depth you’re in. For calm overnight anchoring, the standard is to let out about 5 times the lowest water depth; and for overnight in heavy weather, let out 7 to 10 times water depth.  

When figuring out scope, always add the height of the bow off the surface into your water depth data.  This is especially important in tidal areas where the minimum water depth is nearing your boat’s draft.  Check your charts and always prepare for the lowest tide!

The Bottom Should Suit Your Anchor

Be wise about where you set your anchor.  An anchorage may look idyllic at the literal surface level, but the bottom, the ground in which you anchor will settle and hopefully set, may be highly unsuitable for the anchor you are have aboard.  Be sure to consult the corresponding chart to the area you intend to anchor.

Nautical charts contain (or should contain) this seafloor data because all boaters need this info. Make sure you purchase and use nautical charts with this data.  

Is the bottom gravel, mud, or pan-flat bedrock? Are there submerged cables, sunken vessels or barges, dead heads or other things that can seriously catch your anchor and potentially claim it for all time? Proper analysis prior to dropping anchor can save you an immense amount of headaches.

Anchoring Misconceptions

Contrary to popular belief, the anchor itself is not necessarily keeping your sailboat in place once it has been set.  Anchors are often less than a hundred pounds. A sailboat’s momentum can easily drag around an anchor, and we will discuss anchor drag later in the article.  Rather, the anchor digs into the bottom and effectively secures the chain to the bottom. This is a critical principle to understand.

It is the horizontal friction of the chain along the bottom that keeps the anchor from moving around, and keeps your sailboat in place.

The fact is, the flatter or closer to horizontal your rode is; referred to as the scope, the more secure you should feel about your anchor’s effectiveness.  A flatter scope means you probably have the entire length of chain on the bottom, and none of it is suspended by the rode.

Anchoring Hints and Tips

Here are a couple of hints and tips to anchor a sailboat. These tips make the entire process of anchoring a great deal easier. They also make you look like you know what you’re doing.

First, to anchor a sailboat, like most of sailing, is best done with help.  At least two people working together make anchoring so much easier. One person needs to be at the tiller or wheel to pilot the boat. The other needs to be at the bow. The bow person lowers the anchor safely, ensuring there are no tangles or kinks in the chain or rode.  He/she also cleats off the rode to the bow once the anchor is set. This is important if you have a windlass as well.

Communicate Effectively

It can be a real challenge for your crew to hear you when you’re a boat length apart.  For the sake of efficiency, it is important to develop some simple hand signals. I’m often quite amused, and embarrassed for, those couples who yell and holler at each other while attempting to anchor.  Miscommunications abound. Entertainment at its finest!

Hand signals need not be any more complicated than thumbs up for “in gear: forward”, and thumbs down for “in gear: reverse”.  One finger up for 25% throttle, 2 fingers for 50% and 3 fingers for 75%. Simple, effective, you look like a well oiled machine, and no embarrassing “pontificating” between you and your crew for the entertainment of those already at anchor. Although boat launches and anchorages are my two favorite sources of entertainment.

Stern Tying is Gaining in Popularity

Consider a stern tie when at anchor, especially if your anchor spot is relatively near the shore.  This typically requires a spool of quarter inch nylon rope, about 300 or 400ft in length. Amazon stocks a great rope for this, and they are the cheapest I’ve found so far.

Stern tying prevents your boat from swinging at the whim of any breezes, and keeps you in line with your anchor.  Be sure to secure the stern line to a tree or some other permanent object, and run the end of the stern line back to a cleat on your boat.

The tender is ideal for moving the stern line out to land, and is really the only way to stern tie. When you are ready to be under way again, simply untie the stern line off your stern, haul in and spool up the rope, power up the motor,  pull in the anchor and you’re off.

Stern tying also enables you to raft together while at anchor. In this case, stern tying is actually necessary in order to keep the anchors that are out from crossing each other.

Retrieving a properly set anchor.

Well, you made it through the night.  The anchor was properly set and there were no issues.  Now it’s time to retrieve the anchor and be on your way.  Many new sailors often ask “If the anchor can dig in and hold a sailboat in one place all night, how is it possible that something so stuck to the bottom can be pulled up by one person? ”  

In all honesty, this is no problem at all. The way in which an anchor is pulled up is more important than the strength it takes to pull it up.

The first thing to do when preparing to weigh anchor is to start the motor and let it warm up. Immediately take up all of the tender’s painter into the boat.  Props are often fouled by the painter. Slowly idle in gear forward. Take up the rode as you motor towards the anchor. If you have 100 ft of rode out, then this will be no more difficult than pulling in 100 ft of wet rope.

Once the bow is directly over the anchor, stop all forward boat motion and pull the anchor straight up.  This is where a strong back comes into play. The anchor will release vertically much more readily than horizontally.  That’s why we lay out sufficient rode as to create almost total horizontal tension while at anchor.

As it comes up, have another crew member start feeding the rode, and then the chain, into the anchor locker. If it is put away in and orderly fashion, there will be no tangles when you set anchor the next time.

The Stubborn Stuck Anchor

Sometimes the anchor really sticks to the bottom.  You may find that there is nothing you can do to physically pull it up.  In this situation, secure the rode or chain to the cleat and use motor power to dislodge it.  

If that doesn’t work, have all aboard come to the fore-deck as far forward as possible. This will cause the bow to dip deeper in the water than normal.  Pull up as much rode as possible and cleat off the rode or chain to the bow cleat. When this is done, have everyone move back to the stern. This will cause the bow to raise significantly as the weight shifts, and the power of buoyancy will act against the stuck anchor.    

The Dreaded Dragging Anchor

If you notice, during one of your anchor checks, that your position has changed or that you are drifting, you can reasonably assume that your anchor has lost its purchase and is basically sliding along the bottom.  

Noticing position changes can be low tech, such as lining up ranged markers like a treetop and the lighthouse in the distance, and watching their relative positions change as your boat drifts. Or they can be more high tech. Technology such as GPS can notify you of coordinate changes. Depth sounders can be set to sound an alarm when you are moving a preset distance.  

It is reasonable to assume that at some point, you are going to experience a dragging anchor. This is a real problem for skippers, but it is manageable if you keep your head.

Why Did My Anchor Drag?

Skippers that drag anchor and drift ashore or into other boats are usually guilty of far too little rode out.  A near vertical scope is the telltale sign. These anchorage attempts often have only the anchor on the bottom with the chain and the rode scope angled nearly straight up and down, right under the bow.  

Dragging Anchor Solutions

Anchors drag for a variety of reasons.  Sometimes it is because you didn’t let out enough rode and the scope is simply too steep.  In this case the integrity of your anchoring is based almost solely on the weight of the anchor itself.  With near vertical scope, you can be sure that the chain is not entirely on the bottom, and therefore you have lost the friction that chain was supposed to secure.

Other times the wind picks up and the consistent force pulls the anchor out. Maybe the anchor hooked onto a rock and wave action caused it to hop off. Other forces like extreme current may have been sufficient to pull the anchor out of its set place.

 Whatever the case, the first step is always, pay out the rode. Allow the anchor and chain to properly sink to the bottom. You are trying to use the existing motion of the boat to reset the anchor. This can feel sketchy because your boat is adrift, it may be dark, and there may be other boats or shoreline that you are drifting towards. I always recommend starting the motor and keep it in neutral. Always warm up the motor and be ready to power away before you attempt any of these steps.

Bring your tender right up to the side of the boat and gather in all of the tender’s painter.  The last thing you want is tender painter fouling your prop.

Drift back only until you get uncomfortably close to shore or another boat.  If it seems that the anchor is not plowing itself in, stop the boat. Have the helmsman put the motor in forward and use power to combat the direction of the drift.  

Make sure that all motion is stopped. You do not want to make any forward headway until the rode, chain and anchor are aboard. Just power ahead until you are essentially “stopped”.

Haul in all rode and chain, and have the anchor either aboard or a few feet under the water so as not to swing into the bow.  Retry the anchoring process somewhere else.

Kedging: Other Uses for a Set Anchor

Anchors can also be put to use in case you run aground and are held fast.  In this scenario it is assumed that the keel has made contact with the ground and not the hull.  This self rescue option involves the anchor being placed in the tender and rowed out to deeper water.  The anchor should be dropped directly off the beam of your sailboat. The technical term for this is kedging. Before boats had motors, this was how large ships moved about in close quartered harbors.  

When you anchor a sailboat with scope of at least 7:1, you can use the near side winch to haul in on the rode.  This effectively uses the leverage of the winch to pull you sideways into deeper water. In a falling tide, this needs to be done quite rapidly, but it will work.

Another variation of this would include attaching the rode to the main halyard instead of the winch, and hauling it up to the top of the mast, again using the leveraging power of the winch.  This could of course require you set the anchor hundreds of feet away from the boat, and of course let out hundreds of feet of rode in order to attain the effective scope needed.

As the halyard and rode are winched up the mast, the boat will begin listing towards the set anchor. This will cause the boat to heel over, using the buoyancy of the hull to essentially float the keel off of the bottom. At the same time, the boat will be pulled towards the set anchor, setting you free.

Final Thoughts

To properly anchor a sailboat is a necessary skill every sailor needs to master.  It is critical to get some practice with anchoring before you actually need to anchor a sailboat for real.  It is also very convenient to have a crew member assist in the process.

Preparation is always key, especially for overnight stays when deciding on an anchorage. Make sure you are confident about where you will stop, and make sure you have a backup spot.  This should not be left to chance as your daylight fades.

Rode, chain, and anchor need to be in good shape in order to be trustworthy. If you implemented the skills above properly, you should be more than prepared to take on any suitable anchorage in your sail plan.

“Anchors Aweigh!”

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Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

When you buy a used boat, odds are it will come with an anchor, and with a new boat you'll usually get to choose an anchor for it. What if that old anchor you have on your new-to-you boat doesn't hold so well, or needs replacing? In any of those scenarios, you'll need to pick out a new anchor for your boat. There are more types of anchors that you dreamed of, and they're all different in how they perform in different anchoring conditions. And your anchor will need to be sized for your boat.

The type of anchor you choose depends on the predominant bottom types where you plan to sail, and what fits on your boat. Once you know the type, you get the perfect type and size of anchor from the length and weight of your boat using the manufacturers' recommendations.

On this page:

How does an anchor work, loads and forces on an anchor, anchor construction materials, most common anchor styles, how do i choose an anchor, what's in your anchor locker, picking the right anchor ground tackle.

Instead of getting overwhelmed, if you do a little research upfront on what you might need you can narrow down your choices and get the best anchor for your boat and where you use it.

While it may seem obvious at first glance, there are many mistaken assumptions about just how your anchor holds your boat to the bottom. It's important to understand just what your anchor does when it's holding your boat, so you know why you may choose one anchor or another.

All anchors dig into the bottom. Some have aggressive, plow-like forms or scoops which burrow in quickly, others have various hooks, spikes or protrusions designed to catch and hook as soon as the anchor is pulled.

Angle of attack provides holding power

The pulling force on an anchor is along the shank, and for an anchor to offer maximum holding power, it's crucial that the bulk of the load from the boat's pull is applied in this direction. If the pull is from the side, the anchor may break out. If the pull is from above the anchor, it definitely will.

Part of the role of the chain in your rode is to keep the rode flat on the bottom to make sure the loads from the boat are horizontal and along the direction of the shank.

Scope & chain provide angle and drag

Your anchor rode and how much scope you let out is as important to your choice of anchor to how well you hold. Chain has its own resistance to being dragged and adds extra holding, and as noted above, it also keeps the forces on the anchor from pulling it out.

The longer the scope, the better the angle of pull on the anchor. With a length of chain, the extra weight adds more holding the bottom, and a rope/chain rode gives extra shock absorption in the catenary of the rode.

You can learn more about how to select and install the right anchor rode by reading our detailed article here.

Orientation of anchors

Most modern anchors have a definite top and bottom, and will not set lying on their backs. These anchors flip and orient their blades down if they land the wrong way or break out. Many anchor designs dig in quickly with the anchor lying on its side, and may have roll bars or weights to keep them in a suitable setting orientation.

Some anchors, like grapnel anchors or the Bulwagga, had a radial symmetry and no true up or down. These don't need to reorient or right themselves. They will catch the bottom no matter how they lie, though not all the blades and hooks will help hold the anchor.

Good anchors will reset unnoticably

All anchors can break out and may get rolled as a boat swings at anchor and wind strength increases. An anchor's ability to reset is important. You don't want to drag long before your anchor sets again. With a good anchor, you won't even be aware it has broken out and reset, as it will happen quickly without your boat seeming to drag at all.

An anchor doesn't care at all about what kind of boat is on the other end of the rode, what it cares about is how much drag force is on the rode. A heavy boat in a light breeze may pull as hard on an anchor as a lighter boat in more wind. It's the force that counts, and you size your anchor by how much force you can expect to land on that anchor and rode.

Boat weight partially determines drag force

Your boat's weight is one of the two sources of drag force on your anchor. Heavier boats will pull more than light boats in the same condition. Many anchor vendors give tables of boat weight ranges which match to the best anchor size.

In wind, boat length is more important

Picture two boats with the same weight - a low-slung classic yacht with little freeboard , but a heavy full keel, and a more modern design with higher freeboard, less ballast, and about ten more feet of length. In windless conditions, they'll pull about the same against the anchor.

But in twenty knots of breeze, the longer boat with more freeboard will have a lot more pull. Here, the boat's length overrides the weight. A doubling of wind speed quadruples the load on the anchor, so this effect becomes more pronounced the higher the wind.

Anchors are made from three primary materials - galvanized steel , stainless steel , and aluminum .

Galvanized steel anchors are cheap

Galvanized anchors are the most common, as they are the least expensive, offer excellent weight, and are very durable and rugged. They can rust over time as the galvanization wears off, but provide the best cost to holding of all anchor construction material. You can re-galvanize an anchor at considerably less cost than replacing the anchor, if the original protection wears off.

Stainless steel anchors are expensive

Stainless steel anchors have similar strength to galvanized steel anchors combined with corrosion resistance. They look beautiful on the bow, but they are quite expensive at 3-5 times the cost of a similar galvanized anchor, and you'll want to pair them with a more expensive stainless chain. While they won't rust, they can get scratched and lose their shiny finish if you use them often. And there is a risk of crevice corrosion if stainless steel sits underwater too long.

Aluminum anchors don't rely on weight

Aluminum anchors are lightweight and strong, but may not have the holding power of heavier anchors of a similar size, and aluminum is not as strong as steel. They are popular with racers, and also for secondary anchors, because they are lighter and easier to handle. Aluminum anchors rely on bottom penetration to set, not weight.

The dozens of anchors available break down into a few general classes. Trying to organize all the choices by function helps you narrow the field to what may work best for you.

Claw anchor

Claw anchors, like the Bruce, have claw style blades to dig in and hold well for most conditions. They may struggle to dig in with a hard mud or clay bottom, but will reset well on other bottoms.

Plow anchor

Plow anchors are generally fixed, like the Delta, or have a hinge like the CQR. The fixed plows do well in everything but rocks, while the hinged CQR doesn't hold quite as well but responds better to the movement of the rode since there is a swivel.

Plow with Roll Bars

Modern designs like the Rocna and Spade incorporate a plow form on the blades, coupled with a roll bar. These have fantastic holding power and set easily. They don't fit as well on some older boats, and are more expensive.

Fluke anchor

The fluke anchors are great in mud and sand, but don't do as well with bottoms they can't penetrate or grass. The Danforth (and its clones) are popular with smaller boats, and the lightweight aluminum Fortress is a favorite with weight conscious ravers.

Fisherman's anchor

The traditional crossbar and hooks anchor is good for rocks. Some break down for storage, which makes them a popular choice for a storm anchor.

Grapnel anchor

Grapnels are fine anchors for dinghies, kayaks, PWCs and other small, light craft but don't do well with higher loads and larger boats.

Mushroom anchor

Small mushroom anchors can hold a small craft like a dinghy or kayak. Many permanent moorings are large mushroom anchors, where they can dig deep into the bottom. But they are not suitable for big boat use.

Other alternatives

This list isn't exhaustive. There is constant innovation in anchor technology, from the Bulwagga to various box anchors, which don't even look much like anchors as we think of them. All have their strengths and weaknesses, so research carefully and try to find someone with real-world experiences with them.

Remember, there is no "right" or perfect anchor, so look at a lot of options to see what fits your boating style.

The basic decisions you have to make about your anchor are the style, size, and material of your anchor. While we can't get into every type of anchor on the market and how it works for every boat, we can give you an overview of the decisions you must make.

What fits on your boat?

If you're adding a new anchor to an existing boat, you may have some natural limitations on what anchors you may choose.

With a bow roller sized for a plow or a nice Danforth bracket installed already, maybe those features limit your choices. You may switch between a CQR and a Delta with that anchor roller, but there's a good chance you can't fit a Rocna's roll bar up there without bending something. You could probably switch a Fortress out for a Danforth in that bracket, but you can not hang a plow from it.

Most anchor manufacturers give dimensional drawings of their products on their websites, so measure and even mock up something to see if it will go. On my boat, I shoved a Manson Supreme where a CQR went, but not without permanently bending a retaining pin. And I mocked the whole thing up in cardboard ahead of time to be sure.

Where will you anchor?

The range of where boat affects what to have in your bow locker. If you're a Chesapeake Bay sailor and you don't leave the bay, something that holds well in mud is a must and may be all you need. But a world cruiser needs something more effective across a range of bottom types.

Give careful thought to the places you’ll want to spend the night on your boat, especially the bottom types you'll find. In the end, you'll likely have more than one anchor, and you want to cover most of the holding types you'll encounter.

Choose your materials based on budget and style

This is a matter of budget and style, mostly. As a cruiser who spends almost every night at anchor, I can't see the sense of spending a fortune on a pretty anchor that spends most of its life hidden. But for some, adding that high gloss show to the bow of a Bristol condition yacht everyone can see most of the time, the aesthetic choice may make more sense.

When I raced, I had a Fortress because it met the requirements to have an anchor, but I ended up spending a couple of nights on it. It was easy to move around, but for vacations I still dragged the 35 lb. CQR out of the shed and put it in the bow locker.

Size your anchor based on boat length and weight

Sizing your anchor is most people's biggest worry. Remember, it's better to have too much anchor instead of not enough. You want to sleep soundly and leave your boat without worrying. If you're hauling your anchor up without a windlass, the extra pounds matter a lot more, but it's better to have extra.

It's not as hard as you think to size your anchor, because every single manufacturer publishes a guide to how to select the right product for your boat. Most of them have tables for boat length and boat weight, and we talked up above about how a boat's weight and windage affect anchor loads.

To size your anchor, follow these steps.

• Search the "by length" table for the length of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• Search for the weight of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• The correct anchor size for your boat is the larger of those two recommendations.

If they give a single number in the table, choose the next number above yours. If they use ranges and your boat is on the edge of a weight or length range, there's no harm in moving to the next size band. Don't move down bands; you don't want to undersize.

For an example, look at this sizing table for Spade Anchors. We've going to pick an anchor for a boat which is 53' long and weighs about 54,000 lbs.

Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA

You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds.

So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.

Most boats should have more than one anchor, so you will go through this process several times. You may need multiple anchors for the different bottom conditions you may come across. If you foul an anchor or lose one, a spare anchor and rode can literally be a lifesaver.

Other reasons for multiple anchors include a lighter anchor for a "lunch hook," though with an electric windlass this isn't much of a concern on bigger boats. You may want a smaller stern anchor in case you need to anchor where you don't want to swing, or it's important to keep your bow facing a direction other than into the wind. And finally, if you plan to cruise far from your home port, you may want a storm anchor.

Any of the anchor types we've discussed will fill many of the above roles, and you can use these tools to evaluate your boat and your plans to make the best choice for each job.

The next step is to select the right ground tackle. Ground tackle consists of everything that connects the anchor to your boat and is used to control the angle of attack, scope, and drag by adding or removing weight to the anchor.

I've written a detailed guide to help you to understand ground tackle in depth , which will help you select the perfect parts yourself.

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11 Steps To Anchoring Your Sailboat Safely

Knowing how to anchor a sailboat properly is an essential skill every sailor must learn. As a solo sailor, I frequently anchor my 41-foot sailboat alone. With some practice and a good plan, it is pretty simple in most normal situations. However, there are a few things that you need to pay extra attention to and some cases and conditions that require knowledge to get right.

These are the steps to anchor your boat safely:

• Plan and research the location you want to anchor.
• Identify obstacles and hazards in the area.
• Get the anchor ready.
• Locate the spot you want to anchor, preferably a sandy patch.
• Navigate to your place and set the boat up against the wind.
• Aim at your spot and drop the anchor at the bullseye.
• Pay out your scope of chain and rig up your snubber or bridle.
• Tension up the chain and set the anchor.
• Test your ground tackle’s holding.
• If the test fails, pick up the anchor, return to step 4, and repeat the process.
• Optional: Inspect that the anchor is adequately dug into the seabed.

Let’s break down the steps and go into detail.

11 steps to anchor your sailboat safely

Anchoring is a hot topic amongst cruisers, and there are several ways to do it properly. The steps in this guide are guidelines and should give you the theoretical knowledge to understand the process even if the conditions differ. This method is doable alone but is easier with a pair of extra hands. The basics are the same, no matter how many hands you have on deck, though.

How you anchor depends on the weather conditions and if you can see the seabed you want to put the anchor in. It is easiest if you can see what type of bottom you have. If the visibility is terrible, you’re basically throwing spaghetti at the wall to see what sticks.

I have spent many years in the North Sea on commercial anchor handling vessels, installing massive anchors for oil platforms and FPSOs in various conditions. We anchor our sailboats using the same principles but on a smaller scale. My professional experience means that I know a thing or two about anchoring. Years of anchoring Ellidah single-handed, in addition to the above, means I have made some mistakes and learned from them.

1. Plan and research the location you want to anchor

The first step in safe anchoring is planning and research. Gain some knowledge of the place you plan to anchor. Ensure that anchoring is allowed; some areas are protected and illegal to anchor in.

Figure out the level of protection from the weather, water depth, and seabed conditions. Also, make an escape plan in case of emergency – conditions change quickly, and your escape plan may save you and your boat someday.

In the scenario for this guide, we are alone on board and will drop the anchor at 10 meters depth on a small sand patch in an area with a lot of seaweed in moderate wind.

2. Identify obstacles and hazards in the area

The next thing you want to be aware of is if there are any rocks, reefs, shallows, buoys, and other dangers in the area. Your charts often give detailed information about what to expect in the anchorage.

If you use Navionics on your device, the Active Captain community will have valuable information about the anchorage and what to be cautious about. The information is written by other sailors and is invaluable to help you get an overview of the anchorage.

Another app I highly recommend is Navily. Navily informs about anchorage locations, conditions, and protection levels. I actually wrote an in-depth review of these apps that I highly recommend you read!

3. Get the anchor ready

When you have done your planning and research, it is time to get the anchor ready to drop. Put on your autopilot or lock the rudder on a clear course. Head up to the bow and prepare your anchor to be dropped.

I prefer to lower the anchor into the water and hang it below the surface. If you leave it in the air, it might bounce into your bow, and we want to avoid that.

We also don’t want the anchor hanging deep enough to catch on to something before we have found our anchoring spot and navigated the boat into position.

Return to the cockpit when the anchor is ready and take back manual control.

4. Locate the spot you want to anchor

Take the boat for a swipe around the area and look for a sandy area to place the anchor. When you find a good spot, take note of the depth and decide your scope.

Consider your distance from the surroundings, and ensure you have enough room to swing around without hitting anything or bumping into another boat. Please give yourself a little bit of extra space. No one likes it when someone anchors too close to them.

Pro Tip: When we say scope, we refer to the amount of chain you put out in relation to the water depth. I always recommend at least five times the water depth – 5:1 or more, but if you are in a tight anchorage that is well-protected and the seabed holding is good, you may get away with less. I never go lower than 3:1 and always put out a minimum of 30 meters of chain.

5. Navigate to your spot and set the boat up against the wind

Position the boat so you can approach your location with the bow against the wind.

Here comes the tricky part: Depending on how much wind you have and how big of an area you have to drop the anchor in, you need to consider how far the boat will drift in the time it takes you to leave the helm and get up on the bow to start lowering the anchor.

You may want to drive ahead of the spot and position the bow with a slight offset to either side. Now, say you are 10 meters ahead and slightly to starboard of the spot. Stop the boat and turn the bow slightly to the port.

Lock the rudder, head back up to the bow, and get ready to drop the anchor. The wind will catch the starboard side of the bow and push it over to port, and by the time you are prepared at the bow, you should be approaching your spot.

6. Aim at your spot and drop the anchor at the bullseye

As soon as you are positioned at the bow, start paying out the chain, but leave the anchor just above the seabed until it is right above your sandy patch. Once the anchor is in position, land it on the seabed and continue paying out the chain as the boat drifts along.

If you miss the spot, lift the anchor to just below the surface again and reposition yourself.

Don’t stress this step. It is perfectly normal to make several attempts. People on other boats will probably pay attention to you and sometimes even shout, but ignore them for now. You are anchoring and can only do one thing at a time.

Get ready for a new attempt and repeat steps 4 and 5 until you hit the bullseye.

If the entire seabed area is nice and sandy, you can skip step 7 and drop the anchor in any decent position.

7. Pay out your scope of chain and rig up your snubber or bridle

Now that the anchor is placed perfectly in your sandy patch continue to pay out the chain as the wind pushes the boat back. Count the chain length and continue to pay out until you reach your scope of 50 meters for this example.

You may have to stop and wait for the boat to drift if there is little wind or even head back to the helm to reverse the boat. We don’t want to make a pile of chain in one spot, but lay it out nicely.

Once the entire scope of the chain is out, it is time to rig up a snubber.

Pro Tip: A snubber is a rope or bridle you attach to the chain and secure to the boats’ cleats. We use snubbers and bridles to take the load off the windlass. Ideally, we want the boat to hang off strong cleats instead of the windlass.

8. Tension up the chain and set the anchor

Now that your snubber or bridle is rigged up, head back to the helm and put the engine in reverse. Take your time and wait for the chain to get stretched out.

You will feel when the boat comes to a stop, and now is time to make a note of your exact location while you keep the engine at low revs in reverse to keep the tension on the chain.

There are two easy ways to take note of your position:

• Find a spot ashore and another place between yourself and the shore spot that lines up to each other.
• Add a marker to your chart plotter or start a snake trail. I like this method.

Increase the reverse revs on the engine slowly and ensure that the boat stays in the exact location. We want to ensure the anchor isn’t dragging through the seabed. Continue to increase the revs up to the rpm you usually use for motoring at marching speed.

For a Volvo Penta or Yanmar engine, you typically end up at 1800-2200rpm.

9. Test your ground tackle’s holding

Term: ground tackle.

When we say ground tackle, we refer to everything holding the boat to the ground. In this case, it is the snubber, snubber shackle, chain, chain shackle, and anchor. You can learn more in The Sailors Guide to Nautical Terms by clicking this box.

Now, we’re going to test that our ground tackle is holding. Keep the revs up and monitor your two aligned spots or markers on the chart plotter for 30-60 seconds. If you haven’t moved during this period, your anchor has dug into the seabed and is holding.

Slowly ease off the throttle until the engine is back in idle. The boat will start to move forward as the weight of the chain pulls the catenary down. Once the boat stops, the wind will push the bow to the side and swing you over until the chain is stretched up again. Be patient and let the vessel settle.

Well done, you should now be safely anchored! Unless your anchor dragged, which is pretty normal.

10. If the test fails, go back to step 4 and repeat the process

If the anchor breaks loose during the process, you will see that your two aligned spots will start to unalign, or you will drift away from the marker on the chart.

Sometimes, you’ll feel a slight bump in the boat as the anchor loses grip and notice you aren’t holding the same position.

Pro Tip: A good trick is to head up to the bow and put your hand on the snubber or bridle while keeping the reverse tension. You will feel a vibration if the anchor drags through the seabed and hear scratching if the anchor rubs against rocks.

If the test fails and the anchor is dragging, you must take the anchor and chain back up and start over from step 5.

However, if you have made several attempts in the same spot without any luck, you may have to find another location and start again at step 4.

When you get more experience, you will realize that some anchorages can be harder to anchor properly in than others. It is part of the game to have some failed attempts, and I have spent hours and countless attempts on more occasions than I can count.

Do NOT give up until your boat is properly and safely anchored! It is a recipe for disaster, and how people lose their boats. A 50-knot squall may come out of nowhere and surprise you, even on a lovely sunny day. Yes, I speak from experience!

11. Optional: Inspect that the anchor is adequately dug into the seabed

You are usually pretty safe after testing the ground tackle by reversing, but there is one last thing I like to do to be 100% sure that the boat is safely anchored. Now, I cruise in the tropics, where the water is usually clear and delicious, so this step may not apply to you.

Jump in the water with a mask and snorkel, follow the chain to where the anchor is, and ensure it has adequately dug into the seabed. I quite enjoy this exercise, and it gives me great confidence. After countless dives, I know pretty well how my anchor behaves in different seabed conditions.

Optional 2: Have an anchor drink

If you ever sail with a Norwegian, you will probably come by the term “Ankerdram,” which means Anchor Drink. You celebrate a successful anchoring by having a nice beverage of your choice. Since I am Norwegian, I like to practice this tradition with a cold beer!

Final Words

The key to proper and successful anchoring is to do it thoroughly and correctly. If you don’t do it properly, you risk the boat drifting out to sea with or without you onboard. Or even worse, into another vessel or onto the ground!

I was anchored in Ibiza when a charter boat started dragging and crashed into Ellidah without anyone onboard. We handled the situation and saved the charter boat, but the skipper was clueless about anchoring and told me that he usually just dropped the anchor and a bit of chain on top of it, and that was that.

Another time, me and a friend were anchored in the Holandese Keys in San Blas on a gorgeous sunny day. A Backpackerboat was anchored poorly next to us and started to drag rather quickly when a sudden 50-knot squall came through violently. We had a massive choral reef behind us, which the backpacker boat was only inches from hitting.

Don’t be like those guys . Anchor correctly EVERY time!

Take some time to practice and perfect your anchoring skills. Eventually, you will master how to properly anchor a boat like it is the most natural thing in the world. Sometimes, it may take as little as 10 minutes from your start until you have your anchor drink in your hand!

If you want to learn more sailing basics, check out my ultimate beginner’s guide here !

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

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18 Most Popular Sailboat Anchor Types

Being able to anchor out after having arrived in a cozy and isolated bay to enjoy the rest of the day in complete contentedness or simply anchoring right outside a marina to save a bit of time and money is an amazing luxury to have.

To properly set a sailboat anchor, however, requires a good quality, dependable anchor , so knowing the different sailboat anchor types is a must.

Knowing which sailboat anchor type is best for you depends on which conditions you’ll mostly be using your anchor. If you’re like most people, you’ll only need to choose between a few sailboat anchor types, but it’s always good to know about all the options available to you.

That’s exactly why I put together a list of the most popular sailboat anchor types that you’ll want to consider adding to your sailboat the next time you’re out on the water setting anchor.

However, there has been a resurgence in terms of anchor design over the years, so I’ll be distinguishing between the classic and modern sailboat anchor types.

What Makes a Good Anchor

Before we dive into the many different sailboat anchor types, we should quickly cover what makes a good anchor .

Depending on the circumstances, you’ll want one anchor over another. However, there are certain qualities we want in almost all of our anchors before we set out on a sailing adventure.

• Fast Dig in Time: It’s important that any anchor you use has the ability to dig into the seabed as fast as possible. The sooner the anchor is attached to the seabed, the earlier your chain will lay out.
• Buries Deep into the Seabed: Ensuring your anchor can bury well into the seabed means it’ll be firmly attached to the Earth. The anchor chain does most of the work when keeping your sailboat from moving much, but the anchor’s position must be solid.
• Holds a High Load: There are a lot of different sailboats of different sizes. Making sure the anchor you have has a sufficient surface area, flukes, and holding power is of the utmost importance for ensuring a strong holding power.
• Maneuvers Well During Tide and Current Shifts: There will be times when the tide, currents, and wind move your sailboat around while anchored out. Being confident your anchor can effectively maneuver under these conditions while staying well enough in place is a very important quality.

Classic Sailboat Anchor Types

Let’s take a look at some of the classic types of anchors used in sailboats.

You’ll most definitely see these anchor types in sailboats all over the world, so it’s a good idea to get accustomed to them and understand their advantages and disadvantages.

Fisherman/Admiralty Anchor

Probably the most common image of a sailboat anchor that’s conjured up in our heads is the traditional Fisherman/Admiralty anchor.

This sailboat anchor type is what we see on many coats of arms or similar symbols and can still be found on sailboats all over the world.

• Can be stowed flat.
• Holding power in sand, mud, or other loose seabed is good.
• Less likely to break due to few moving parts.

Disadvantages

• Relatively heavier than other anchors causing difficulty to move them.
• Damage to the sailboat can be caused by the anchor’s flukes when being tossed around.
• Possibility of the anchor chain getting tied up in the vertical fluke.

CQR/Plough Anchor

The CQR or Plough anchor was developed in 1933 in the UK and has been a very popular sailboat anchor type ever since.

Named CQR because it sounds like the word “secure” when being pronounced, it’s a versatile type of anchor since it can secure a sailboat even when tides and currents change all of a sudden.

• Holds very well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
• Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power.
• Digs into the seabed well compared to other sailboat anchor types.
• Oddly shaped so stowing can be difficult.
• Moving parts can get damaged and can cause injuries to fingers.
• Sometimes requires a tripping line to remove from the seabed.
• Not ideal for seabed with kelp or hard sand.

Danforth Anchor

The Danforth anchor is a type of anchor for a sailboat that was developed back in the 1940s in the US and specifically designed for WW2 landing craft.

Since then they’ve been used in all kinds of sailboats and are a common sailboat anchor type for those anchoring often in loose seabeds, like sand or mud.

• Excellent hold when in the sand, mud, or other loose seabeds.
• Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power (similar to the CQR anchor).
• Not ideal when anchoring in rocks.

Delta Anchor

Not unlike the design of a CQR/Plough anchor, a Delta anchor is a popular type of anchor for sailboats nowadays.

The main difference between a CQR anchor and a Delta anchor is that a Delta anchor has no moving parts and is thus fixed into one piece. This sailboat anchor’s been around since the 1980s and is a great alternative to a CQR anchor.

• No moving parts that pinch your fingers.

Bruce Anchor

Another popular anchor developed in the UK, the Bruce or Claw anchor was developed in the 1970s and has a reputation of being a good type of sailboat anchor in many settings.

This type of anchor doesn’t have any movable parts and has an effective way of realigning itself with changes in the wind and tide.

• Digs well into the seabed.
• Holds well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
• Easy to break out when pulling it in.
• Difficulty in penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Grapnel Anchor

A Grapnel anchor is well suited for those looking to anchor in more rocky and coral-filled areas where there’s little seabed around that’s soft.

The great part about having a Grapnel anchor is that it can easily catch quickly by using its hooks to grab on to surrounding objects.

• Holds well in hard seabed environments such as rock or coral.
• Not ideal for soft seabeds like sand or mud.

Modern Anchor Types

Now that we’ve reviewed the more classical anchor types, let’s dive into the newer generation of sailboat anchor types that you’ll run into more and more as the years progress.

It’s not unlikely that you’ll find one of these newer generation anchors on your sailboat, so let’s see what they’re all about.

Bugel or Wasi Anchor

The Bugel or Wasi anchor was designed in Germany by a man named Rolf Kaczirek and set the stage for a new approach to anchor design around the world.

This anchor has a roll bar attached to a single delta that’s flat and sharply pointed allowing it to penetrate most seabeds it encounters.

• Digs into a diverse set of seabeds.
• Has a relatively lightweight.
• No moving parts.
• Relatively inexpensive to purchase.
• Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potential less digging.
• Not ideal for very large sailboats.

Spade Anchor

The Spade anchor is an innovative sailboat anchor type that was designed in France in 1996. It’s an extremely light anchor that has an effective gripping power that’s quite similar to a Delta anchor but instead compacts the floor much better.

The holding power of a Spade anchor is known to be extremely powerful.

• Very lightweight.
• Digs into the seabed quite well.
• Can be disassembled for easy stowing.

Rocna Anchor

One of the most popular types of anchors for sailboats today, the Rocna anchor is a very good choice for an anchor. It was originally designed in New Zealand in 2004 and has since taken the anchor industry by storm.

By combining the best design feature from the Bugel and Spade anchors, it truly has set itself apart. It’s by far the most popular for cruising sailboat worldwide.

• Very strong holding power.
• Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed.
• Excellent surface area.
• Difficult to stow sometimes due to the row bar component.

Manson Supreme Anchor

The Manson Supreme anchor was designed in 2003 and has become a popular sailboat anchor in recent years due to it being able to have a very high holding weight and ability to settle fast.

Since it has a dual operation shank, it’s able to effectively dig into all seabed types with ease. It even has the rollbar design that the more modern anchors are known for.

• Has been known to be heavy.

Bulwagga Anchor

The Bulwagga anchor not only has a funny-sounding name, but it’s also one of the more uniquely designed anchors in the world. Instead of having the normal three flukes, it has a total of three.

Needless to say, this anchor has been well tested and proven to be a highly effective anchor in many situations.

• Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed, especially in weeds, coral, and rocks.
• Easy to retrieve back onto the ship.
• Difficult to stow sometimes due to having three flukes.

Knox Anchor

The Knox anchor was invented by John Knox in Scottland and has an exceptional holding power similar to the Rocna anchor.

As a matter of fact, this anchor is able to hold 40 times its anchor weight, which is a stunning feat.

• Digs well into many types of seabed.
• Sometimes difficult when penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Ultra Anchor

Known as one of the most innovative Spade-designed anchors, the Ultra anchor is rapidly becoming one of the most popular anchor types and is often seen as a replacement for the Bruce anchor.

It’s a rather heavy anchor since it’s made out of stainless steel and has lead inside the tip of its fluke. While not cheap, the Ultra anchor is known to work virtually guaranteed.

• Arguably the strongest and most reliable holding power.
• Very heavy to carry and retrieve.
• Relatively expensive compared to other anchors.

Vulcan Anchor

Similar to the Rocna anchor, the Vulcan anchor is almost a carbon copy of the Rocna anchor minus the fact that it doesn’t have a roll-bar.

The main reason for the creation of the Vulcan anchor was to accommodate sailors who found it difficult to stow the Rocna anchor. This is a fantastic choice for any sailor.

• None that could be found.

Manork Anchor

One of the most recent sailboat anchor types designed over the years is the Manork anchors, which were designed in Slovenia by Marko Janjanin in 2017.

It has proven to be an extremely well-designed, well-functioning anchor that can accommodate sailors in many weather and seabed conditions. It’s been heavily tested in strong storms and loose seabeds only to pass with flying colors.

• Has a unique fluke design made for strong holding power.
• Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potentially less digging.

Other Anchor Types

More likely than not, you’ll want to opt for one of the more modern types of anchors for sailboats if you have the opportunity.

However, there are several other anchor types that are effective in different environments that may not be the most common, but are useful when needed.

Mushroom Anchor

The Mushroom anchor was invented by Robert Stevenson and is most commonly used in seabeds that are composed of silt or fine sand.

While it’s not likely that you’ll ever be in such an environment, a Mushroom anchor will ensure that you’re safe to anchor in case you ever are. Since it’s shaped like a mushroom and inverted, the head of the anchor effectively buries itself directly into the sand.

They rely heavily on a suction effect between the seabed and the anchor, therefore the seabed must be relatively fine.

Hydrobubble Anchor

Not unlike the CQR/Plough anchor, a Hydrobubble anchor has a similar design but with a slight twist. It has attached to it a buoyancy tank that allows the anchor to safely float down to the seabed without fluttering around and causing an issue when it lands.

This almost entirely ensures that the anchor is in a good position and securely attached to the seabed. All in all, it’s just like a CQR/Plouch anchor but just better at landing in a good position.

Sand Anchor

There aren’t many anchors out there like a proper Sand anchor, mainly since this type of anchor is attached directly to the shore of a beach.

These types of anchors are designed to give your sailboat a firm attachment to sand on land when necessary. Generally, a spike is either driven or screwed into sand for a temporary amount of time.

It’s important to note, however, that these types of anchors are strictly temporary and should be monitored constantly.

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How To: Basic Anchoring and Anchoring Etiquette

By: Zeke Quezada, ASA Cruising Tips , Learn To Sail

Quite a long time ago…decades ago. I sailed over to Catalina Island from my marina near ASA headquarters. I was young. It was my first time embarking across the channel. My crew was a good friend and his cousin who was celebrating his 21st birthday. They drank beers the entire time. 

In simple terms, I was a solo sailor.  I was also young and irresponsible.  Why admit to this? Well, we all were young once and we all made dumb decisions. Own it and learn from it.

Did I understand anchoring? No. Up to that point, I had only ever picked up a mooring ball once in my sailing life.  This was way before Youtube videos explained how to drop the hook.

Frankly, ASA bite-sized lesson on Anchoring Basics would have been perfect for me.

ASA 101 Basic Keelboat sailing will prepare you for Basic Anchoring principles. However, let’s refresh some of that knowledge on how to drop and set an anchor on a sailboat.

First, a few basic anchoring tips to start:

• Make sure you know where the anchor is stowed.
• Make sure you know how to get it in the water safely.
• Make sure you know how much rode you need to pay out. 
• Make sure you know how to make the rode fast on deck.

Basic Anchoring

Anchors work by digging themselves into the seabed. To do this, they need the rode to pull at an angle closer to horizontal than to vertical. 

Anchoring Vocabulary:

• Rode:   The rope and/or chain that connects it to the boat
• Scope:  The ratio of the length of rode let out to the depth of water. 
• Make Fast: To secure, as when typing a line to a cleat.

As you drop the anchor you will need to pay out a significant amount of rode to allow for the rode to pull at an angle that is close to horizontal.  This is called the scope.  Typically, a 7 to 1 ratio works.  This number will get adjusted depending on conditions. (A lesson learned in ASA 103, ASA 104)  

To arrive at the right length of rode to let out, you add the height of the boat’s bow above the water to the depth. For example, if the depth is 10 feet and the freeboard at the bow is 4 feet, the length of rode needed for 7:1 scope will be (10 + 4) x 7 = 98 feet.

TIP : “When in doubt let in out” works well in anchoring.

Stand well clear of the anchor rode when letting go of the anchor—anchors are heavy, fall quickly through the water, and the rode can cause, at the least, a nasty rope burn

Anchoring: Step-By -Step

• Approach your chosen spot for anchoring by bringing the boat to a stop, head to wind. 
• With the boat stopped, lower the anchor and pay out the rode as the boat blows downwind.
• When enough rode has been let out, make the rode fast.
• The anchor will take hold and the boat will lie head to the wind or current.
• The anchor is set.

Anchoring Etiquette

A few years ago Sail-World.com published a great article on Anchor Etiquette and it is still very relevant.

1. The first boat sets the precedent:

If you arrive in an anchorage and find that all the boats have a stern anchor set, that’s now the rule. If the first one there is a cabin cruiser that yaws all over the place and they have 60 metres of rode out in five feet of water, they have set the precedent. Any subsequent comers will need to give them room.

2. Watch your Wake:

Entering an anchorage or a mooring area is like moving into a new neighborhood. Enter at a slow speed, less than five knots, to avoid making a wake that might upset their sundowner drinks or the bits from the winch they were servicing, or dinner preparations. This also applies to dinghies when traveling close to anchored boats – and in most countries, it’s the law anyway.

3. Give yourself, and other boats room:

Look at the wind in the anchorage and try to work out where the anchors of other boats are lying. Cruise through the anchorage a couple of times to assess the situation. Calling out to find out how much chain the boat has out is an indicator that you are aware of swing patterns and will attempt to place your boat so that it is not in the way of another boat. There’s also some self-preservation here too, as you may want to stay clear of potential party boats, or the boat with that very noisy wind generator. Remember, if he was here first, you are the one who has to move.

4. Watch the ‘Magnet Effect’:

A boat already anchored seems to attract the next boat to anchor right next to it, even though there is an enormous empty bay to anchor in. Try not to do this, and, if you were there first, it is your right to speak to a boat that arrives after you and ask them to move if you feel that they are too close.

5. Buoy your anchor:

In a crowded anchorage, it’s a good idea to buoy your anchor – place a floating marker on your anchor so that you, and others, know where it is. There’s nothing worse than tangled anchors, particularly if you have to make a hasty departure because of deteriorating conditions. (Of course, you have to keep a small watch to make sure your first-time sailor doesn’t arrive and try to pick it up as a mooring ball.)

6. Sound carries far:

Voices, music, engine noise, especially outboard motors, unmuffled go-fast boats, ski boats, jet skis, generators, barking dogs and the dreaded ringing telephone are all examples of the egregious disruption of anchorage serenity. Common sense should prevail in predicting what will not be appreciated and protecting the serenity for the common good.

7. Keep Bow to Cockpit communications civil:

It’s not the anchoring, or the need to re-anchor, which separates the beginners from the experts. It is the amount of yelling and chaos that breaks out between the person handling the anchor and the person maneuvering the boat. Boating is the only sport that requires T-shirts that proclaim ‘Don’t yell at me!’ Either develop a set of hand signals or better still, use some inexpensive walkie-talkies, so that at least your comments on the abilities of your other crew member will be kept on your boat.

8. Think of your neighbors AND the environment:

The smell of burgers on the grill might be a marvelous aroma for most, but really smelly cooking upwind of a boatload of vegetarians may be a cause for some strong sentiments. Don’t go into a crowded anchorage full of pristine water and then not use the holding tank! – It’s really not a good scene for swimmers in the water. And it can ruin your whole day to find yourself swimming with rotten tomatoes or floating banana skins.

9. Be careful with lights at night:

When anchored at night always have an anchor light on (black ball during the day), when looking for an anchorage don’t shine a strong beam directly into another boat’s cockpit, and don’t be the boat that’s lit up like a football field deep into the night when all else in the anchorage are trying to sleep.

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Yachting Monthly

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Best anchors: 8 new generation designs suitable for every boat

• Rupert Holmes
• January 27, 2022

Most boats would benefit from upgrading to a better anchor for a host of reasons. We take a look at 8 of the best anchors on the market right now

Securing your anchor do it is ready to drop could get you out of a tight spot when you can't sail out of trouble. Credit: Theo Stocker

Good ground tackle and understanding how to anchor properly opens up the option to stay overnight in stunning bays and creeks, away from costly marinas and expensive harbour moorings. And picking the best anchors is essential in terms of safety too as you may well need it to hold you off a lee shore in the event of engine failure.

However, unless your boat’s anchor has been upgraded recently, the chances are it’s of a type that will not provide good holding power.

What to look for in a good anchor?

Much has changed in the world of anchors in the past 20 years, which led to classification societies such as Lloyds adding a new Super High Holding Power certification category for these anchors in 2008.

Most of the best anchors exceed the requirements for this by a wide margin.

These advances in anchor technology and different types of anchor mean older boats won’t have been equipped with what we would now consider to be decent ground tackle when they were new.

This is also true for most vessels built in the last 20 years. Until recently the latest generation of anchors was relatively expensive, so were generally only fitted as standard equipment to very high quality yachts.

The various brands of today’s very high holding power anchors share a number of key characteristics that make them more effective than older products.

The best anchors tend to have a concave profile akin to the shape of a shovel. This digs more firmly into the seabed without tending to act like a plough when under load.

Another important aspect to look for in a good anchor is the tip weight, as loading as much weight here as possible is a massive help in enabling it to penetrate weed and other difficult types of sea bed.

Typical new generation anchors have 35-45 per cent of their weight on the tip. Some also have roll bars that prevent the anchor landing on the seabed upside down.

Whatever anchor you choose, beware of cheap unbranded copies. These rarely have the precise geometry needed to maximise holding power. Some are also badly cast and therefore weaker than the original design.

At a glance:

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence.

7 of the best anchors on the market right now.

Rocna Galvanised Anchor

This was one of the first of the new generation of ultra high holding power anchors and quickly gained much acclaim, despite an initially high price tag.

The Rocna is well engineered and has an excellent reputation for digging in quickly and easily. Once set it then offers excellent holding.

A roll bar is incorporated, but a downside of Rocnas is they do not stow neatly on all bow rollers.

To solve this problem the company developed the Vulcan series, which doesn’t have the roll bar and is shaped to fit on a wider range of bow rollers.

Reasons to buy:

– Good quality anchor

– Excellent holding power

Reasons to avoid:

– It is expensive

– Do not stow neatly on all bow rollers

Specifications:

– Size: 96 x 41 x 39 cm

– Weight: Available in 10kg, 20kg and 25kg

Buy it now on Amazon.co.uk

Buy it now on Amazon.com

Buy a Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.co.uk

Buy a stainless steel Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.com

Lewmar Stainless Steel Epsilon Anchor

Read PBO’s Lewmar Epsilon review

The latest model from this UK company offers the benefits of a new generation anchor at very attractive prices.

It has a winged design with concave flukes to maximise holding power in a variety of sea beds, a ballasted tip that enables it to dig in readily and is self righting, even though the roll bar is optional.

The Epsilon is intended as a direct replacement for Lewmar’s long-running plough style Delta anchor.

Although the Epsilon’s shank is proportionately shorter, the two models share the same basic shank geometry. Therefore, if a Delta fits your bow roller then an Epsilon will also fit.

– Easy to handle

– Designed to fit any bow roller that works for the Delta

– It has a shorter shank

– Size: ‎55 x 35 x 30cm

– Material: stainless steel

– Weight: ‎6.1kg

Buy it now on eBay

Buy it now from Amazon

Buy it now from West Marine (US only)

Fortress FX-11

This aluminium anchor is an older design from more than 30 years ago, but still has a number of advantages that makes it an excellent choice in some circumstances.

It’s biggest feature is very light weight relative to the holding power the anchor provides. This makes it a perfect option for performance catamarans and trimarans, as well as for smaller fast motor boats.

The key downside, however, is that the holding power is achieved through the surface area of the flukes, not the weight of the anchor. This means it’s physically larger than other anchors, although it comes apart like the Spade for easier stowage.

A neat feature is that the angle of the flukes can be varied to suit different types of sea bed.

– Perfect for catamarans and trimarans

– Easy to manoeuvre thanks to its light weight design

– Flukes can be adapted to the type of sea bed

– Larger than other anchors

– Holding power is from the surface area of flukes

– Size: ‎73.66 x 15.24 x 7.62 cm

– Material: aluminium

– Weight: 8 pounds

Spade Anchor S series

This is another popular modern anchor, but with an important difference to other brands.

The hollow shank can be removed to make stowage easier. This makes it an excellent choice for racing yachts and other vessels that don’t permanently keep the anchor on the bow, or for occasional use as a kedge.

There’s no roll bar, but the tip loading is close to 50 per cent of the total weight, which helps it to dig in and set quickly.

The main drawback of the Spade is one of cost – it’s more complex to manufacture than other designs, so the price is relatively high.

– Good option for racing yachts

– The hollow shank can be removed

– No roll bar

– Expensive

– Size: S40 to S160

– Material: galvanised steel

– Weight: 6kg to 55kg

Buy it now from Jimmy Green Marine

Knox Anchors

Professor John Knox spent a great deal of his spare time researching the loads on anchors and rodes.

His work in this area over a period of 20 years contributed a huge amount to our understanding of anchoring and precise causes of anchors dragging or breaking out.

It also led him to develop his own design of anchor that would offer significantly better performance compared to the popular models at the time. It was therefore one of the first of the new generation designs.

The Knox anchor has a patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle that enables it to dig into the seabed quickly and efficiently.

It’s fitted with a roll bar and, while the shank is made of the highest tensile strength steel available.

– Made of the highest tensile strength steel

– Patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle to dig into the seabed

– We can’t find any

– Material: highest tensile strength steel

– Weight: 6.5kg to 27kg

Buy it now from Knox Anchors

Stirrup Anchor Bugel Anchor

The Bügel was one of the very first new generation anchors and quickly set a new benchmark in the industry.

It has a flat fluke with lower surface area than later designs, plus a roll bar and a shank made of thick plate.

This makes it a relatively inexpensive anchor, which is undoubtedly a key factor behind its enormous popularity, even though later products offer higher holding power.

– Good value anchor

– It features a rollbar and shank

– Other products offer higher holding power

– Size: 66 x 28cm to 86 x 38cm

– Material: Hot-galvanised steel

– Weight: 9 to 16kg

Buy it now from compass24.com

Manson Supreme Anchor

This was the first anchor to receive Lloyds Super High Holding Power certification when the classification was introduced in 2008.

It’s a fabricated design that uses two layers of steel for the fluke and relies on a roll bar, rather than a ballasted tip, to self-right.

The upper slot in the shank is intended for use in rocky sea beds, or anchoring in coral . The idea is that if the anchor becomes stuck the rode can be slid to the shank end of the slot, enabling the anchor to be retrieved without using a tripping line.

The shape of the anchor is designed to fit all conventional anchor rollers.

– Good for use on a rocky sea bed

– The anchor fits all conventional anchor rollers

– Other products offer innovative designs compared to this classical anchor design

– Size: 18′ – 30′ to 40′ – 45′

– Weight: 7kg to 20kg

Buy it now from Marinesuperstore.com

Ultra Marine Ultra Anchor

Read Yachting Monthly’s Ultra Anchor review

Our sister title Yachting Monthly recently tested the new 12kg Ultra Anchor from Ultra Marine over several nights at anchor.

Editor Theo Stocker said: “I was impressed with how quickly the anchor set.

“While our normal 10kg Bruce anchor can struggle in soft sand and weed, the Ultra anchor buried itself almost completely and refused to drag.

“The Ultra’s performance amply delivers on its maker’s promises as is comparable to other stainless anchors,” he concluded.

– Handmade and hand-polished stainless steel

– Ready to dig in

– Not the cheapest option on this list

– Weight: 5kg to 8kg

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Anchoring Masterclass: How to Anchor like an Expert

Want to anchor with confidence and ease? Tom Fletcher shares some hard learnt charter skipper secrets for expert anchoring…

Tackling anchoring.

Have you ever had the Greek Gods of Anchoring displeased with you? I have. I once spent a week on charter with a wonderfully nice father and daughter, on board Sail Ionian’s brand-new Bavaria C50, and it was an absolute nightmare. What’s more, the yacht had just had a new 30kg Rocna fitted, so I couldn’t even blame the ground tackle! Everywhere I went that week I had to have three or four attempts at dropping before the anchor would catch. By the end, I was in tears with frustration, and still don’t know what I was doing wrong. The next time I took her out on charter I had no problems whatsoever.

In the Ionian we rely heavily on our anchor . It can make or break a week on charter so always make a point of checking what the yacht you’re booking is equipped with. Even for a 30-footer I wouldn’t want under 50m of chain. If I was being demanding, as a rule of thumb I would multiply the length of the boat in meters x5, to get the minimum number of meters of chain I would like.

Favoured anchor types will vary depending upon the type of seabed or the area you’re in. Designs like the Bruce or Fluke can be outstanding in sandy areas like the Caribbean. CQRs can be brilliant where tidal flow direction can change, as the design allows them to twist without breaking out. Even fisherman anchors or grapnels can be useful in rocky areas and riverbeds. However, my years of experience in the Ionian have taught me that a Rocna is the best you can get for varied types of seabeds. At Sail Ionian the whole fleet is retrofitted with Rocnas, or their sister the Vulcan which doesn’t have the roll bar.

Make sure your boat handover goes into detail on the windlass and where the trip switch or fuse is. You will want to know how to tighten the gypsy, and how to free drop the chain too. If you can test the windlass by dropping and raising chain, do so. It’s good to see if the windlass is slow or fast, whether it sounds healthy, and if there is any juddering or slipping (which is a good indication of a worn gypsy that should be replaced before you leave).

I have a real bugbear with skippers who don’t realise the importance of their crew on the bow. With a little training and explanation, they can be the yacht’s best asset when anchoring. I have lost count of the number of times I have started training a crew how to med moor , only to find that the bow person doesn’t have a clue what they are doing, and merely responds to shouted direction from the helm. I like to teach the bow person about techniques, types of seabeds, length of chain… all sorts. I guess some people aren’t that interested, but most seem to like to understand what they are doing!  A crew working together in this way is much more effective. When small problems arise, they can then be dealt with quickly. I like to teach some hand signals too, to stop the shouting over the noise of the windlass and the wind. A basic set of ‘drop’, ‘stop’, ‘up’ and ‘down’ are enough to deal with most needs. Knowledge of how to weigh anchor and control the chain when it’s coming in are invaluable too.

Don’t try to anchor on a steep declining seabed

This is one that is peculiar to deep water anchorages, of which we have many in the Ionian! It can be a common situation that you are trying to anchor near the shore, with the wind blowing the yacht off. However, because of the steepness of the seabed you have the bow in 5m of water but the stern in 10m of water! As you reverse and lay out chain the yacht is getting into progressively deeper and deeper water. The anchor just has no chance of holding as it is, in effect, being dragged down a hill. The moral of the story being to consider not just the material of the seabed, but also the bathymetry.

Deep water techniques

It is quite common on an Ionian charter that I will choose to anchor in well over 10 meters of water. The main constraints with depth are firstly the length of chain we carry, and secondly the strength of the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, a typical 40ft charter yacht will carry at least 60 meters of chain. Using the old maxim of 4-5 times the depth of water, we get a maximum anchoring depth range of around 12-15 meters. Our windlasses can deadlift a substantial weight, but when you consider the length of chain plus the anchor at the end, it is a considerable lift. We usually recommend to guests to always stick under 12 meters, much deeper than that and fuses can start blowing!

When dropping in these depths it is important to remember that it takes time for the anchor to hit the seabed. We often see people reversing as they drop, not realising by the time the anchor catches they can easily be 15-20 meters further away from where they intended the anchor to be. This can cause all sorts of complications, from changes in depth to distance from the shore for long lining. In fact, the most common issue this causes is when long lining; the yacht ends up much closer to the shore than intended, with much less chain out that desired! It’s easy to time your windlass over 10 meters of chain to get an idea how quick it is, then you know roughly how long it will take for the anchor to drop to the seabed.

I would advise positioning the bow where you want the anchor, then letting down 10m of chain, before starting to reverse into the wind, ensuring your anchor is where you want it.

Always look for clear water

The colour of the water is the first give-away of what sort of seabed you’re dealing with, and where in a bay you should drop the hook. A normal Ionian bay will have beautiful clear water and be a uniform mid blue, with patches of light blue. Those light blue patches are usually sandy, without any weed, and are a great spot to aim for. Firstly, you should explore the anchorage at slow speed, keeping one eye on the depth gauge and one eye on the water. Different parts of the bay may be windier that other too. Once you’ve picked your spot, look for those lighter patches of water and aim to get the bow over them. Here is another great example of where you need to reply on your crew on the bow. They will need to direct you to position the bow of the boat over the sand and drop the anchor there. Again, a little communication in terms of positioning and depth, or length of chain, is needed, so that you can get the anchor down on the sand before you start moving in reverse.

Wind directions & local knowledge

Considering wind direction is one of the first lessons to be taught about anchoring. It is, however, complicated by the fickle nature of the Ionian wind. At the mercy of island topography, katabatics, and even time of day, picking a spot that isn’t a lee shore can sometimes be harder than you think. Often a perfect lunchtime anchorage with a light offshore breeze can change to a lee shore once the temperature of the day increases and the afternoon anabatic winds start up.

The first time I saw local Greek charter skippers long lining off the beach in Marmagas on Ithaca I was confused. The morning breeze was light and blowing them onto the shore. I assumed their guests must have asked to be as close to the beach as possible. By the end of lunch though, the wind had switched to a feisty offshore 15 knots, gusting above 20, and my anchor was dragging into deeper water where I had dropped in the middle of the bay. Those Greek charter skippers were sitting comfortably, being blown off the beach, with the strain on their long lines, not on their anchor. It’s always worth keeping a humble eye on what other sailors are doing – there’s always someone cleverer than yourself! 

Free dropping chain vs. lowering on the windlass

As divisive an issue as any in sailing circles! Many who care for their own windlass much prefer to treat it carefully and drop chain freely, by loosening the gypsy, taking the strain away from the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, we always tell our guests to drop using the windlass though. We feel it gives guests more control, and there is less danger of fingers getting near fast moving lengths of chain. There is also a tendency for the gypsy not to be tightened enough after free dropping. This can result in slipping when weighing anchor, which in turn causes a lot of engineering call-outs and a large fuel bill for a very quick job of tightening the gypsy to the correct tension.

The most important time to consider dropping freely, and quickly, is when you are anchoring in a very windy situation. Sometimes you just want to get the anchor down fast and keep the boat under control using the engine. This can be particularly true for long lining or med mooring in a crosswind. Releasing the chain slowly on the windlass motor can slow the yacht to the point where you lose all steerage.

Whenever free dropping anchor, it is essential to check the bitter end is attached to the yacht securely, and to slow the rate of descent as you approach the end of the chain. Bitter ends are designed to separate when needed, and the speed and weight of a full chain locker dropped without braking can be enough to rip the bitter end d-ring from the deck. I have seen the confused look on faces as the end of the chain follows the anchor to the seabed. Another good reason to train your bow person well! If this ever happens to you, try and note your position in the bay, or hit the MOB button on the GPS quickly. If they know where to look the charter company may be able to dive and find the tackle, saving you a large bill.

Checking you’re well in

Finally, a lot of the issues I see out there could be avoided with a final check to test the anchor. I often see anchors dropped and engine off within seconds, with no attempt to test how well the anchor is dug in. I prefer to sit there with the engine running at least 1000 rpm in reverse for the 5 minutes it takes for the kettle to boil, before I’m happy to relax.

It is a fact of life in the Ionian that there is a lot of weed on the seabed and often anchors can get caught up in this, appear to have set, but break free after a persistent snatch. But this can also be the situation when you have a lot of chain out too. The weight of the chain alone can be enough to resist light winds, or low revs on the engine. It’s only with more force that it becomes clear the anchor is not actually in, and the boat starts drifting.

I have spent many a stormy Vliho night on the bow of an anchored yacht in over 30 knots of wind and not moved anywhere. A well dug in anchor can cope with a surprising amount of force. So don’t be shy with checking you’re set, give her some revs and sit back for a few minutes. You’ll sleep a lot better.

Tom Fletcher is a hugely experience skipper and instructor at Sail Ionian. For more information, go to the Sail Ionian Website .

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The 5 Best Sailboat Anchors

A good anchor for a sailboat will help keep a vessel stationary and stable in the water in any weather conditions or marine environment.

There are a number of top anchors for sailing boats that can work on sailboats of both small and large sizes of under 20ft to over 100ft.

The best sailboat anchors are:

• Best Overall : Mantus Marine M1 Mantus Anchor
• Best For Holding Boat : Lewmar Claw Anchor
• Best For Price : Seachoice Utility Anchor
• Best For Small Sailboats : Fortress FX-11 Anchor
• Best For Large Sailboats : Rocna Galvanized Anchor

These anchors will ensure the sailboat is anchoring properly in any sailing conditions.

Sailboat owners should choose an anchor based on the size and type of their sailboat as well as the type of marine environment their vessel will be located in.

For example, anchoring a sailboat on a sandy surface is different than anchoring a sailboat on a rocky surface and it will require different anchors.

1. M1 Mantus Galvanized Anchor

The best overall sailboat anchor is the M1 Mantus anchor manufactured by the brand Mantus Marine in Texas, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best overall anchor because it can dig deep into the seafloor and ensure the sailing vessel will not float away.

The M1 Mantus anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel with the shank and shank boot welded from top to bottom.

It is a plow anchor shaped with a sharp triangle-shaped nose, a straight shank and a "U" shaped roll bar bolted to a fluke.

This anchor comes in many different sizes from 8lbs to 175lbs. It comes with 4 American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) certified bolts.

The M1 Mantus anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sandy, gravel, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky sea floors.

The M1 Mantus can be used in different types of locations including rivers, sea and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 20ft to 65ft can use the M1 Mantus anchor.

The M1 Mantus anchor is priced between $180 for the smallest 8lb anchor to approximately $3,000 for the largest 175lb anchor at most retailers.

The M1 Mantus anchor works to hold a vessel in position in winds of up to 40 knots, highlighting its great holding power abilities.

The benefits of the M1 Mantus anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Mantus Marine manufacturer offers a lifetime warranty on this anchor for added peace of mind
• It can be disassembled easily for storage : Simple disassembling bolts make it easy for storing this anchor when it is not in use
• Multiple size options : With anchor size options from 8lbs to 175lbs, sailboat owners of different vessel sizes, from small sailboats of 20ft to large sailboats of 65ft can use this anchor
• It works in multiple marine conditions : This anchor works in multiple marine conditions from calm ocean currents to extremely windy and storm conditions with up to 40 knots of wind speed
• High-performance sharp head nose enables easy penetration of the sea floor : The sharp edge nose of this anchor means it penetrates the ocean floor fast and with ease
• It is hot dipped galvanized for corrosion prevention : This anchor is hot dipped galvanized giving it extra protection against corrosion and wear from corrosive seawater
• It comes with 4 high-quality oversized A.S.T.M. certified bolts : This anchor comes with 4 oversized bolts with a large margin of safety that will help prevent damage

One disadvantage of the M1 Mantus anchor is it is more expensive than other anchors on the market.

M1 Mantas Anchor On Amazon →

M1 Mantas Anchor On eBay →

2. Lewmar Claw Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for its holding power is the Lewmar Claw anchor manufactured by the brand Lewmar in Hampshire, United Kingdom and sold worldwide.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is constructed of high-grade galvanized steel cast in a single piece. This anchor was inspired and designed based on anchors used to secure oil rigs in the North Sea.

The Lewmar Claw anchor comes in sizes from 2.2lbs to 176lbs. It is used on seabed surfaces including sandy, muddy, gravel and grassy ocean floors. It is not used on rocky surfaces.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including ocean, lake and river floors.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to 65ft can use the Lewmar Claw anchor.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is priced between approximately $30 for the smallest 2.2lb anchor to approximately $1,300 for the largest 176lb anchor at most retailers.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 50 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Lewmar Claw anchor are:

• It's fast setting : Depending on the sea depth, this anchor can set and begin anchoring a vessel in under 5 minutes
• It has great holding power : This anchor can help with anchoring boats in position in extremely harsh weather conditions with winds up to 50 knots
• Easy bow roller storable : This anchor can fit and store nicely in most bow roller shapes and styles without any issues
• It's a budget-friendly anchor : The Lewmar Claw anchor is one of the cheapest on the market and it should be within most sailboat owner's budget with the most expensive anchor sold at a price of approximately $1,300
• It's built with strong & high-quality material : The Lewmar Claw is built with high-quality and heat-treated steel with a galvanized finish

One disadvantage of the Lewmar Claw anchor is it does not come with a lifetime warranty.

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Amazon →

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Walmart →

3. Seachoice Utility Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for the price is the Seachoice Utility anchor manufactured by the brand Seachoice in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for the price because it offers the most options for the cheapest price on the market.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel or PVC-coated steel. It comes in 5 different color options including red, black, white, light blue and grey.

This anchor comes in different sizes from 4.5lbs to 8.5lbs.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is priced at approximately $25 for the smallest 4.5lb anchor to approximately $70 for the larger 8.5lb anchor at most retailers.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is used on different seabed surfaces including gravel, sand, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky seafloors.

The Seachoice anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including the sea, rivers and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 10ft to 30ft can use the Seachoice Utility anchor.

The Seachoice Utility anchor can hold a sailboat in position and keep it anchored in wind speeds up to 30 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Seachoice Utility anchor are:

• It comes with a 1-year warranty : The Seachoice Utility anchor comes with a 1-year manufacturers warranty for added peace of mind
• It comes in multiple color options : Sailboat owners can choose from 5 different anchor colors
• It's easy to retrieve from the seawater : This anchor comes with a great slip-ring design that makes it easy to retrieve it from the water after use
• Sharp anchor fluke design makes penetration easy : The sharp fluke design helps the anchor to easily penetrate the seafloor surface
• It is cheap : The Seachoice Utility anchor is the cheapest anchor on the market with the largest anchor priced at approximately $70

Two disadvantages of the Seachoice Utility anchor are the anchor can only be used on smaller sailboats up to 30ft in length and it can not be used on larger sailboats over 30ft and the anchor can not be used on rocky sea floors.

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Amazon →

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Walmart →

4. Fortress FX-11 Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for small sailboats is the Fortress FX-11 anchor manufactured by the brand Fortress Marine Anchors in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for small boats because its lightweight aluminum material is capable of holding a sailboat up to 32ft without the anchor being extra heavy.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is constructed of aluminum alloy material and it comes in a size of 7lbs.

It comes with a pivot adjustment which allows an adjustment of the anchor angle between 32° to 45°.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sand, gravel, mud and grassy surfaces. It is not used on rocky seafloor surfaces.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor can be used in different marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of between 28ft to 32ft can use the FX-11 anchor.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is priced at approximately $200 at most retailers.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor works to hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 30 knots without the vessel floating away.

The benefits of the Fortress FX-11 anchor are:

• It's rustproof : The light but strong aluminum material is rustproof meaning the anchor will not suffer from rusting caused by the corrosive seawater
• It comes with a lifetime parts warranty : The Fortress FX-11 anchor comes with a lifetime parts replacement warranty against damage that might occur to any parts of the anchor
• It is easy to store after use : It can be easily disassembled which means it is easy to store onboard the sailboat after using it#
• Penetrates the seafloor and sets deeper : The sharp edge d anchor allows it to easily penetrate seafloors and anchor a boat

One disadvantage of the Fortress FX-11 anchor is it can only be used on smaller sailboats between 28ft to 32ft and it cannot be used on larger sailing vessels over 32ft.

Fortress FX-11 On Amazon →

Fortress FX-11 On Walmart →

5. Rocna Galvanized Anchor

The best anchor for larger sailboats is the Rocna galvanized steel anchor manufactured by the brand Rocna in British Columbia, Canada and sold worldwide.

The Rocna anchor is constructed of galvanized steel with solid welding from top to bottom.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor was designed by New Zealand sailor Peter Smith.

The Rocna anchor design comes with a roll-bar to ensure the anchor can penetrate the surface at the best angle and one-third of the anchor's weight is on the fluke tip which also helps with the penetration of the seafloor surface.

The Rocna anchor comes in 14 different sizes from 9lbs to 606lbs.

This fluke anchor is the best for larger sailboats because it offers anchors up to 606lbs which will help with anchoring most larger sailing vessels.

The Rocna anchor can be used on all sea surfaces from gravel, mud, sand, clay, kelp and rocks. It can also be used in marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to over 300ft can use the Rocna galvanized steel anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor is priced between approximately $220 for the smallest 9lbs anchor to approximately $12,000 for the largest 606lb anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 40 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Rocna galvanized anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Rocna galvanized anchor comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage, manufacturing defects and bending for added peace of mind
• It can be used on all sea surfaces : The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can be used on all sea surfaces including gravel, sand, mud and rocky sea floors and it is not limited or restricted to just a few types of surfaces
• It sets fast : The sharp edge fluke helps penetrate the sea surface and the anchor sets fast as a result of this design

One disadvantage of the Rocna anchor is it is not the cheapest anchor with the cheapest price at approximately $220.

Rocna Anchor On Amazon →

Top Sailboat Anchors Comparison Table

What To Consider When Buying A Sailboat Anchor

The factors to consider before buying a sailboat anchor are:

• Type of material used : The type of material used to create the anchor is an important consideration when buying a sailboat anchor. Most modern anchors are constructed using aluminum steel or galvanized steel
• Durability : How long the anchor can last is a factor to consider when buying a sailboat anchor. Modern anchors come with lifetime warranties and they should last for well over 10 years
• Size Of The Boat : Identifying the proper anchor size for a boat is not a perfect science but the size of your boat is an extremely important factor to consider when choosing a top sailboat anchor. Typically, the larger the boat size, the bigger the anchor that is required
• Price : Price will also play a big role in the sailboat anchor you buy. Anchors come in many different prices for many different budgets

Frequently Asked Questions About The Best Sailboat Anchors

Below are the most common and frequently asked questions about the top sailing vessel anchors.

What Are The Best Sailboat Anchor Brands?

The best sailboat anchor brands are:

• Five Oceans Danforth Style
• Mantus Marine

Are Top Sailing Boat Anchors Expensive?

No, top sailboat anchors are not expensive with some of the best sailboat anchors priced as little as $25 in some instances.

What Are The Different Types Of Sailboat Anchors Available For Sailboat Owners?

The types of sailboat anchors available are:

• Fluke anchors
• Plow anchors
• Claw anchors
• Mushroom anchors
• Grapnel anchors

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Best Sailboat Anchors of 2024

Stopping to explore nearby reefs and grab a quick bite of lunch, sailors often take for granted the safety and security an anchor provides. But if you’ve ever had to ride out a storm—or dragged anchor at night—you’ll soon learn the importance in choosing the best sailboat anchor for your vessel.

To determine how strong your anchor needs to be, we must first understand the differences between old guards versus new generations. Choosing an anchor takes many factors into consideration, some of which tailor to personal sailing habits, your vessel’s size and even the body of water you frequently sail.

While encouraging you to challenge your seafaring skills, we at The Adventure Junkies want beginner sailors and liveaboards to find safe anchorage during rough seas. Below, you’ll find a breakdown of common anchor types and when to use them.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Sailboat Winches .

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

• Manson Supreme
• Manson Boss
• Rocna Original
• LEWMAR Delta Fast-Set
• LEWMAR Bruce-Style Claw
• Danforth S-600

SAILBOAT ANCHOR REVIEWS

Check out the latest price on: Amazon

BEST FOR: Sailors who anchor in all seabed types

MATERIAL: Galvanized steel

BOW ROLLER: Yes

PROS: Self-righting roll bar, new generation anchor, sets in hard and grassy seabeds, lifetime warranty

CONS: Less affordable

MANSON SUPREME

BEST FOR: Larger sailboats who sail in all types of seabeds

PROS: Self-righting, new generation anchor, narrow shank with 2 slots for day use and anchor trip

CONS: Less affordable, comparable to Rocna

MANSON BOSS

BEST FOR: Sailors who want their vessel to be both functional and aesthetically pleasing

MATERIAL: High tensile galvanized and stainless steel

PROS: Self-launching curved fixed-shank, strong surface area to hold ratio, adjustable shackle for fixed eye and sliding shank for anchor trip

CONS: Narrow shank, no self-righting roll bar

ROCNA ORIGINAL

BEST FOR: Vessels that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: New generation, self-righting roll bar design, plow-style wide fluke, sharp chisel, fits most bow rollers

CONS: More expensive than fluke-styles

BEST FOR: Vessels under 40 foot that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: Corkscrew plow design that digs deep, holds strong in every seabed condition, ballasted tip

CONS: More expensive

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in marshy areas with grassy sea bottoms

PROS: Good for bow rollers, pivoting hinge shank, quickly resets

CONS: pinches fingers, hard setting in rocky bottoms

LEWMAR DELTA FAST-SET

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in sand and grass

MATERIAL: Galvanized manganese steel

PROS: Performs well in grass and sand, one piece construction, performs well on bow roller

CONS: Fixed shank underperforms in mud

Check out the latest price on: West Marine

BEST FOR: Sailors who need a fast-setting anchor in mud or sandy seabeds

MATERIAL: Aluminum

PROS: Similar to Danforth, lightweight, easily stored, good hold to weight ratio, fast-setting

CONS: Does not perform well in rocky and grassy seabeds

LEWMAR BRUCE-STYLE CLAW

BEST FOR: Budget-conscious sailors with sailboats larger than 30 feet

MATERIAL: High tensile steel

PROS: No moving parts to break, lighter than plow, holds well to grass seabeds

CONS: Heavier than most anchors, low holding power, not easy to store, drags in storm conditions

DANFORTH S-600

BEST FOR: Smaller sailing vessels who sail in mud and sandy sea bottoms

BOW ROLLER: No

PROS: Good general anchor for smaller vessels, lightweight, easily stowable

CONS: Doesn’t reset well, not compatible for most bow rollers, pinches fingers

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

8 THINGS TO CONSIDER TO FIND THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHOR

Monohull vs. multihull vessel types.

A beginner sailor might question which anchor is better for their vessel’s hull type. But to be clear–when it comes to choosing an anchor for either monohulls or multihulls (like catamarans), the type of anchor you choose depends more on your vessel’s size and weight. Vessel types are rarely–if ever–a deciding factor.

LAKES VS. COASTAL WATERWAYS

Lakes and rivers do not require the same strength you would need for coastal waters and open seas. But take your sailboat on the Great Lakes, ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) or to brave a transatlantic journey, and you’ll need something more adequate. All anchors listed here are for coastal waterways, but may also be efficient for smaller bodies of water.

CHOOSING THE CORRECT ANCHOR WEIGHT FOR VESSEL LENGTH

To choose the correct anchor weight for your vessel, you need to know your vessel’s weight and length. Always verify the anchor manufacturer’s specifications and suggested vessel length, but know the numbers are typically inflated. I suggest to always bump up to the next size and sail with a heavier anchor than your vessel requires.

CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS

Anchors are forged from a variety of materials; some metals more modern than others. Keep in mind when you purchase that manufacturers may carry anchor styles in a variety of materials.

Aluminum anchors are lightweight by comparison, but come at a cost. Less affordable than steel anchors, they are also not as strong. But sailor prefer them because–when set correctly–they have high holding power.

GALVANIZED STEEL

Galvanized steel is a very strong and inexpensive metal. This material is perfect for sailors who don’t much care how shiny their anchor appears on the bow roller. But although galvanized metal is corrosive, it can wear over some time. Be sure to look for hot-dipped galvanized steel or plan for it to be re-galvanized.

STAINLESS STEEL

If you want your anchor to appear more aesthetically pleasing, stainless steel is the material of choice. Stainless steel is also more resistant to rust and corrosion, but keep in mind it scratches easily and can make anchors more costly.

HIGH TENSILE STEEL

With nearly 3 times the holding power strength as regular steel, making most anchors with high-tensile steel relatively stronger–as long as the anchor sets well.

MANGANESE STEEL

A newer material offered for anchors is manganese steel. Manganese combines the strength of mild steels with high-impact durability for setting repeatedly in rocky seabeds.

SEABED CONDITIONS

Beneath the water’s surface, you can encounter a variety of seabeds. This is one of the most important deciding factors in choosing a sailboat anchor. For liveaboards who find themselves sailing in a variety of seabeds, a plow style anchor or scoop is universal, whereas fluke anchors are perfect for flat sands and muddy bottoms.

ROCKS, REEFS AND CORAL

Rocky seabeds can secure anchors quite well, if not a little too well. Sometimes, sailors find themselves needing to dislodge anchors which become stuck. In these cases, it’s wise to use anchors with slotted shanks, making it easier to release trip lines.

MUD, SAND AND GRASS

Muddy bottoms and sandy seabeds require fluke-style anchors with wide surface areas. And because mud can disguise underlying sediments, it also helps if the anchor can penetrate. Fortress anchors are great for these seabed conditions.

Sandy seabeds grab anchors very well, but challenges arise during shifting tides. Hinged-shank fluke anchors allow pivoting and non-hinged scoop anchors rotate under the sand.

Grass tends to be slippery, making it difficult for certain anchor types to grasp. In these seabeds, heavier anchors outperform engineered designs.

WEATHER CONDITIONS

Even if you have a nightwatch partner, sudden storms overtake vessels and send them off course. If you want to set anchor without the worry, many new generation anchors have been tested in hurricanes and outperformed old guard anchors in extreme weather.

HOW WELL DOES IT SET?

If an anchor lacks a way to position itself, it may not set as optimally as intended. You want to assure the anchor is engineered to self-right itself into position when it falls on the seabed. Anchors can set by using a combination of factors from roll bars to tip ballasts to chiseled fluke styles.

The new generation anchors are designed with roll bars, reacting to flat seabeds by self-righting and rolling itself over. Originally engineered by Rocna , the design has been further adopted by more anchor manufacturers like Manson .

TIP BALLASTS

In place of roll bars, tip ballasts are simply weighted on one end. It will naturally tilt toward the tip ballasts edge, allowing the anchor to set when it’s dragged. Anchors can have both roll bars and tip ballasts.

DOES IT MOVE WITH CURRENT & TIDE CHANGES?

One challenging skill in dropping anchor is, in fact, getting it out again to reset. With some anchors, setting it on the first try is a matter of luck, especially when you’re unsure of your seabed condition. It’s important to be able to quickly reset, or you may find yourself strapping on a wet suit and goggles to retrieve it in frigid waters.

Sailors should always carry two anchor varieties. This way, after reading a sonar signatures to determine your depth and seabed conditions, you can choose which anchor will best hold as well as the scope needed to reach.

HINGED SHANKS

Hinged shank anchors are needed for sailing in waters where there are tidal changes. If the sailboat turns about, a hinged shank can pivot itself without having to be reset. But moving parts pinch so watch those fingers!

FIXED SHANKS

Fixed shank anchors are fine anchors if you aren’t worried about tidal changes and currents. You may also rely on fixed shanks in muddy seabeds if they are also scoop-styles.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out these popular buyer's guides:

Sailboat Anchors

Sailboat Winches

Sailing Shoes

Solar Panels for Sailboats

Bilge Pumps

5 Tips For Anchoring Your Sailboat

If you are anything like me, anchoring your sailboat in a quite, snug cove or harbor can be hard to beat. But how do you choose an anchoring spot that will provide you with a worry-free “night on the hook”? Follow these five easy tips to enjoy one of sailing’s most sought-after pleasures.

1. Check Your Ground Tackle for Integrity

Check your anchor ground tackle before you make your approach into an anchorage . This applies to quiet coves or crowded anchorages. Ground tackle consists of each part of your anchor , fastenings, rope, and chain that form an “umbilical cord” from your boat to the sea bottom. If one single part of your ground tackle fails, this could put your boat and sailing crew in danger. You could drag anchor and end up aground.

Take the time now to check for chafe (wear and tear), broken fittings, and bent or distorted anchor parts. Pay close attention to the anchor shank (long arm of the anchor attached to your rope or chain). This vulnerable anchor part needs to be straight without distortion. If bent, do not attempt to straighten the shank. This will weaken it–much like bending a paperclip back and forth. Use another anchor for peace of mind.

2. Choose Protection from Wind and Waves

What direction are the winds from right now? Are those winds expected to shift in a new direction over the next 24-48 hours? Answer these two vital questions before you select an anchorage. Next, look at your nautical chart and find a cove or indentation with protection from wind and waves on at least two sides. Protection on three sides gives you the best security.

For example, let’s say the wind blows from the north. You listen to the predicted forecast and winds are expected to shift to the northeast overnight. Choose an anchorage with protection from the north and east, or protection from the west, north and east. That way, your small sailboat will be protected from the present wind and waves (from the north), and the future, predicted wind and waves (from the northeast).

3. Know Your Seabed Bottom Material

Scan the chart inside the cove you have chosen. You need to have bottom material that your anchor can get a bite into. Sand, hard mud, and clay are ideal to drop your hook. Anchors tend to bury deep into these types of seabed materials. On the other hand, rock, grass, or kelp will be quite difficult for most any anchor to bite into. Your anchor might bounce over a rock-hard bottom or slide over slippery seabeds. Take the time to choose an “anchor friendly” seabed and you will sleep better at night.

4. Select the Best Anchor for the Sea Bottom

Carry at least two anchors aboard your boat. Purchase original anchors–not knock-offs. Copy-cat anchors can be of questionable build quality–unable to take the shear loads experienced when anchored. Choose an anchor that works well in good bottoms and one that you can trust in poorer bottoms. For softer seabeds like soft mud or soft sand pick an anchor like the Fortress. For other bottoms, use a well-proven boat anchor like the Rocna.

Cruising sailboats often carry three or more anchors so that they can use multiple anchors in stormy weather. Remember this–your anchor becomes your #1 primary insurance policy underway–not a piece of paper from a marine insurance company! Spend the money for superior anchor gear and you will be rewarded with confidence, peace-of-mind, and worry-free cruising anywhere in the world.

If you are anything like me, anchoring your sailboat in a quite, snug cove or harbor can be hard to beat.

5. Allow for Swing Room and Scope

Survey the anchorage area once you arrive. Make a few loops around the anchorage spot. Look at how other boats are anchored. Follow suite. If other boats have two anchors out, so should you. Favor that side of the anchorage nearer boats with designs close to your boat. Boats of like-designs swing at anchor in similar fashion.

Remember that your anchor marks the center of the circle and you will swing around the anchor in a circle–called a “swing circle”. Estimate the swing-circle of other boats. When you drop anchor, make sure that your swing circle does not intersect the swing-circle of another boat. Keep well clear of shoals (shallow water) or land downwind of your chosen anchor spot. Calculate the amount of anchor rode you need for safety. Allow 7 feet of rode for each foot of water depth–called “scope”. Add expected height of tidal rise and the distance of your bow above water in your calculations.

For example, let’s say you arrive at your anchorage and you will anchor in 10 feet of water. The tide tables say the tide will rise another 5 feet. Your bow is 3 feet above the water. How much scope do you need? Add everything and multiply by 7. 10 feet + 5 feet + 3 feet = 18 feet x 7 = 126 feet. Put out 126 feet of anchor rode for safe anchoring.

Follow these five tips for anchoring your sailboat safe and sound in any anchorage. This will give you confidence and peace-of-mind–wherever in the world you choose to cruise!

Captain John  shows you the sailing skills you need for safe sailing anywhere in the world. Sign up for a FREE issue of the highly popular “Captain John’s Sailing Tips” newsletter and learn how you can get instant access to over 425 sailing articles, sailing videos, newsletters and more at  SkipperTips .

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FinDelta #2 "Classic" Anchor Riding Sail for Boats 33 to 46 Feet

No Longer Being Made.  Send us a note if you have questions on rigging or instructions. Tired of swinging? The V-Shape FinDelta anchoring sail holds your boat steady with less strain on your anchor rode.

When the wind increases, does your sailboat tack back and forth -- causing chafe, anchor strain and discomfort aboard? You can take control with our sail. As soon as your boat begins to swing, a fin directs a firm correcting force to a windward wing, and your boat is pushed back into alignment. Simple and effective. So effective, this advanced design has earned a U.S. patent and a "Best Choice" by Practical Sailor Magazine .

The FinDelta is designed to fit most boats. All you need is a way to haul it up. No backstay is necessary. Sheeted in firmly, it takes a taut three-dimensional shape that is very quiet.  The Classic model of the sail features an international orange fin -- an added safety feature making your boat easy for others to see in rainy, foggy anchorages.  Rigging can take less than a minute.  SEE VIDEO .

Customers love the FinDelta.  So will you!   SEE CUSTOMER REVIEWS .

KEY FEATURES

• Proven effective.
• Easy to take up and down.
• Will fit most boats.
• Quiet, does not luff.
• Stows in small space.

To test the FinDelta concept, the NASA-funded Space Alliance Technology Outreach Program (SATOP) assigned the University of Central Florida Mechanical, Materials and Aerospace Engineering Department to do an analysis. The test verified that the FinDelta is up to 26 percent more effective at realigning a boat -- especially in those critical moments early in the swing. The fluid dynamics analysis screenshot at top of page shows how at only a 5-degree angle of attack the FinDelta forces air to the wing on one side while cutting it off entirely to the other. SEE A COMPUTER ANIMATION HERE .

The sail is made of heavy 7 oz. sailcloth strongly reinforced at all corners. Free storage bag. Lines not included. Size:  8' along the bottom; 8' high (2.44 x 2.44 meters).

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Better Sailing

Best Types of Sailboat Anchors

When buying a sailboat anchor, you want to ensure the safety of your sailboat, when mooring or setting anchor at the middle of a bay. There are many types of sailboat anchors available in the market and not all of them are constructed of same materials. This article will analyze different types of boat anchors, how to choose the best anchor for your boat, as well as the different types of their construction materials. The right anchor means not just the right design for the type of seabed you’re anchoring on, but also the appropriate size for your sailboat.

Here Are The Most Common Types of Sailboat Anchors

The spade anchor – best sailboat anchor overall.

A new generation anchor, it comes in a welded one-part or two-part design that can be easily disassembled with a spanner. Also, this sailboat anchor has excellent holding power. It provides balance and always arrives on the seabed point down, something that enables it to set very quickly. This Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor has amazing holding power and, talking from experience, will never disappoint at any seabed or weather condition. It is also becoming a favorite for people who liveaboard and are looking for strong dependable anchors to have on their sailboat. I couldn’t recommend this anchor more.

Danforth or Fluke

The Danforth, or Fluke anchor, is a very popular anchor. It performs well in sand and mud, possibly the best among many anchors styles. The disadvantage is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Thus, it is a sand anchor, which is what most bottoms are comprised of. However, it is the best anchor style in terms of weight to strength or anchoring ratio. Furthermore, it’s easy to store because it lies flat. The angle of the flukes is standard for 32 degrees or up to 45 degrees for soft mud. All these are Danforth boat anchors . You just need to find the right size for your boat.

Delta & Plow, Wing, or CQR

This type of anchors is bulkier than Danforth anchors. Both Delta and CQR are a plow style anchor. The difference between these anchors is that the Delta is a one-piece design, while CQR is a hinged design. Moreover, the delta and plow anchors are easy to store at the bow of your sailboat rather than in a locker. Delta and CQR demonstrate good performance in most bottoms, but they struggle in rock. This Lewmar Delta is a great sailing anchor that you can pick up from Amazon at a great price.

Bruce or Claw

The Bruce or Claw anchor rights itself and plows into the bottom, primarily because of its design. The Bruce is an all-purpose anchor because it performs well in most sea bottoms. These could be sand, mud, and rock. Its three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. However, the Bruce anchor has an average holding power, which means that you might need a larger anchor, i.e. the Delta or Wing. Take a look at all these Bruce anchors available online and pick one that is the right size for your boat.

Fisherman, Kedge, or Herreshoff

It’s probably the best of all, in terms of holding in thick kelp or rock, but also more specialized. They are the traditional anchor shape that we all know. Modern kedge-style anchors are lighter and can adapt to specialized use. Furthermore, their sharp bills and small flukes hold better in hard sand. Kedge anchors are often used in heavy vegetation seabeds . However, I wouldn’t recommend this type of anchor to have on your sailboat since there are better and more versatile ones out there.

This type of anchor is similar to other plow anchor styles. The difference is that it has an adjustable fluke angle. Adjustable angles mean that they can be adjusted for different bottom conditions, unlike the Plow and Delta anchors. Although Super Max is a bulky anchor, it’s really effective.

Mushroom and River Anchor

These anchors are suitable for permanent mooring buoys. This style is designed to gradually dig itself deeper and once inserted, it has great holding ability. On the downside, this anchor does not work well in weedy or rocky bottoms. It is mostly useful in temporary anchoring situations. Although this type of anchor can be handy on your boat or sailboat it shouldn’t be the only one or even the second anchor aboard.

The Bugel Anchor

Another new generation of sailboat anchors, and also the first to sport the rollover bar. Furthermore, it has a simple design that makes it affordable. The Bugel Anchor provides excellent performance in most seabed conditions. However, they were widely replaced by spade anchors and you can’t really find them in most marine stores or online.

Best Material Types For Sailboat Anchors

There is a wide variety of anchors constructing materials. The most common are mild steel, stainless steel, high-tensile steel, and aluminum. Most of the traditional anchors we know are either made of mild or high-tensile steel. The difference between them is that high-tensile steel is 2 or 3 times stronger than mild steel. Keep in mind that these anchors are not corrosion-resistant, thus they have to be galvanized in order to prevent rust. In general, steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Most sailors choose a galvanized anchor because they are affordable, but also because they have the highest tensile strength. Nowadays, some anchors are made of aluminum and rely on their shape for their function.

Related Content: Stainless vs Galvanized Anchor

Connection Between Sailboats and Anchor Size

So, what’s the minimum size of sailboat anchor for a vessel of a particular length? For example, a 20ft sailboat will need an anchor of 15lb. Then, a 30ft sailboat will need an anchor of 25lb. Finally, a 36ft sailboat will need an anchor that weighs 35lb. Generally, anchors work in two ways. They can be massive and use their weight to keep the boat from drifting, or lightweight and bury themselves in the bottom, in order to stop the boat from moving. Of course, a combination of both is optimal and as a general rule, you want a bigger anchor that you think you need. That way, even if you find yourself in heavier weather than expected, you want one less thing to worry about.

What Characteristics Make a Good Anchor?

Firstly, it must dig in fast every time. Secondly, it has to bury deep, because of the greater the mass of seabed above and ahead of the anchor, the better the holding power. Thirdly, it must have excellent holding power. Finally, it must hold in the different wind conditions. For instance, when the wind shifts, the anchors have to drag around in order to face the new direction. Prefer the anchors that remain buried while dragging, rather than capsizing and pulling out. Moreover, the static holding power can’t be more than 20 times the anchor’s weight. For example, if you use a 15kg anchor, its static hold will be approximately 300kgf. In a 40 knot wind and for a 33ft yacht, this is probably the force that the anchor will receive.

Summary – What is the Best Sailboat Anchor?

In general, all of the above-mentioned anchors meet the four basic performance criteria. However, some of them demonstrate better performance in terms of holding power in certain types of seabed. For example, the Danforth is quite good in any sand, but there’s still a risk of it rolling and pulling out as the currents turn. On the other hand, Fisherman performs excellently in rock or kelp. However, nowadays the design of the new generation anchors provides much better-holding power and are generally more reliable in their movement.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Sea Anchors & Drogues

Taking bad weather bow-to or stern-to is a fundamental quandary. much depends on your boat. then you have to decide which sea anchor or drogue to buy. we sort through the decision tree..

Sea anchors are as old as seafaring. Sailors through the ages have carried buckets, bags, cones—just about everything except the kitchen sink—and thrown them over when they wanted to limit drift. Where the water is too deep for anchoring to the ground sea anchors have long had their uses. Drogues, too, have a long history. Whether as “drags” used to tire harpooned whales or “brakes” to control hard-to-maneuver barges, drogues have been working the waterways for centuries.

Our examination of commercially available devices is not a product comparison but an overview of some available options.

Definitions There’s understandable confusion between sea anchors and drogues. A sea anchor is meant to fix a boat in place, much like a conventional (non-floating) anchor. A drogue, on the other hand, generally goes over the stern. You use it to control speed and stabilize your course as you run downwind away from the seas.

Both sea anchors and drogues work by creating drag. Both are ways of keeping your boat end-on to the wind and seas. However, their heavy weather missions are quite different.

Sea Anchors The main reason sea anchors and drogues get confused is that, until relatively recently, they were basically the same thing. What John Claus Voss (author of the turn-of-the century classic Venturesome Voyages) and even Adlard Coles in his Heavy Weather Sailing called “sea anchors” were small conical devices much like present-day drogues. However, dating roughly from the end of Word War II, sailors and, most particularly, commercial fishermen, began experimenting with parachutes as devices for heaving to. Patrick Royce was the first sailor to tell of these adventures (early 60’s). John and Joan Casanova subsequently (70’s and 80’s) made well-documented use of a parachute anchor in their multihull cruising. Lin and Larry Pardey (aboard the monohull Seraffyn) used ordnance chutes to heave to and wrote about it.

Para-anchors have come into their own; large-diameter devices on the parachute model (or, as in the case of the modern Shewmon anchors, designed from scratch) have evolved in the past 20 years to offer infinitely more “holding” power than the time-honored cones. The sea anchors available in the US today (from Para-Tech Engineering, Para-Anchors International, Fiorentino Para Anchor, and Shewmon Inc., among others), plus those few available on the international market from Para-Anchors Australia and Coppins, Ltd. (New Zealand) all have the size and strength to do what the older devices couldn’t—”stop” the boat from drifting and hold its bow to weather.

Your sea anchor allows you to stop, to attend to a problem, make repairs, get a rest. If the wind and waves are moderate, “anchoring” your boat in open water is relatively simple and straightforward. If it’s too deep to drop the hook, the sea anchor lets you “park.”

Most sailors, however, look to sea anchors to help them handle heavy weather. And in robust blows and gale force winds para-anchors have earned high marks. They have proven that they can bring the boat end-on to the waves and limit drift (often to as little as half a knot). Testimonials are impressive. For example:

Windswept (Hinckley Bermuda 40 yawl) deployed a 12′ Para-Tech sea anchor during passage of a frontal trough (winds 35-40 knots) off the coast of Maine. The skipper recounted thusly:

“After deployment my yawl lay bow-to the wind and waves with very little yawing. With 400 feet of rode there was absolutely no shock loading. My boat rode like a duck, up and over each wave, always nose to the wind. Altogether a very pleasant, safe, and secure feeling.”

That happy, cozy result is what sailors are looking for. Shewmon advises, “Set the anchor at the first sign of heavy weather, BEFORE the deck gets wet and it’s hard to work. Then go inside and catch up on your rest.” The parachute sea anchor is often painted as the “last, best solution” for the weather-whipped sailor.

But it’s dangerous to regard the sea anchor as a “set-it-and-forget-it” solution to heavy weather. Once crests form on the waves, things change. Water now moves laterally, not up and down. It moves at wave speed (up to 25 knots) and can have an impact of one ton per square foot. That changes the game. Breaking waves slew boats off course, roll them over, rocket them out of control. Breaking waves usher in survival conditions.

It’s a comfort that not many storms produce breaking waves. Still, when they do, they introduce significant problems if you’re riding to a sea anchor. The first is yawing.

Other Aids For Staying Bow To How your boat rides to a ground anchor is a good guide as to how she will ride to a sea anchor. Multihulls, for instance, ride relatively straight to both ground and sea anchors when they bridle the anchor from both bows. A monohull, on the other hand, streams a sea anchor from a single fixed point. That increases yaw.

One antidote is a riding sail. A sail set well aft (even a storm jib hanked to the backstay and sheeted flat) will help a boat stay head-to-wind. If you are able to, reduce windage forward (roller furlers are classic culprits) you can do a lot to keep yourself effectively bow-on.

Another remedy is the form of heaving to popularized by the Pardeys. They ride, with or without sail, to a sea anchor, but they attach a control line to the rode and bridle it to their quarter. By adjusting the control they can “winch the stern to weather” and bring their bow off the wind. The hull makes some leeway which in turn generates a “slick” that helps dampen wave action on their weather side. It’s a promising variation to riding bow-on.

Even if you eliminate yaw, you are left to deal with the effect of powerfully breaking wave crests. Thrown aft against an anchor “fixed” in the water, your boat can conceivably generate a pull approaching its own displacement. The tactic here is to position your anchor so that it is in phase with the boat, cresting when the boat does. You don’t want the anchor to be “fixed.” Maximum scope goes a long way toward achieving the “in-rhythm” balance that can keep loads on the boat and road within reason. Para-Tech recommends a minimum of 300′ of rode (or 12 times the boat’s length overall, whichever is greater). Both Shewmon and Para-Tech insist on nylon rodes because nylon’s elasticity limits shock loads.

“We used to think that we could set a sea anchor with the gear that was already aboard for ground tackle. I’ve learned that you need to have gear designed especially to do the job, in terms of strength, efficiency, and chafe prevention,” said Earl Hinz, author of Understanding Sea Anchors & Drogues. Wind loads alone can push the pull on a rode to more than a ton. Para-Tech specifies 1/2″ nylon for boats up to 35′, 5/8″ for boats from 35′-45′, and 3/4″ rode for boats up to 55′. A dedicated strong point, one that doesn’t rely on deck cleats or skimpily backed windlasses, seems almost mandatory for handling a sea anchor.

Chafe is also a problem. There are reports of systems that chafed through “within hours.” Hinz inserts lengths of chain at 100′ intervals in his rode and lets the chain handle abrasion. Repositioning chafing gear on a bar-taut rode from a wave-swept foredeck is difficult, at best. You can’t do much once you’ve set the anchor. That makes adjusting rode length virtually impossible beyond “freshening the nip” by easing it a couple of inches every hour or so. Shewmon’s answer: “Assume the worst case scenario and stream all of the rode permanently protected from chafe at the boat end from the start.”

Pre-planning helps, but practicing is the best preparation for setting your sea anchor in a storm.

Boats riding to a sea anchor will make some sternway. The more severe the motion astern the more grave the threat to the steering system. A rudder hinged on the keel or transom might even be forced against its pintles and sheared off. To counter the backdowns induced by wind and wave, lock the rudder amidships. Lash the wheel rather than relying on the friction brake. Better yet, mount your emergency tiller and lash it.

Riding to a sea anchor more or less rules out adopting any other heavy weather tactic. That’s mostly because getting going again involves either cutting the gear loose or trying to wrestle it back aboard.

Trip lines are standard items with both Para-Tech and Shewmon sea anchors. The Pardeys and many others don’t use them, though. They fear they might snag and sabotage the system. Hinz favors a partial trip line (about one-third the rode’s length) with its own buoy. Even when you succeed in imploding the chute via a retrieval line, you still have retrieval to contend with. In moderating conditions you may power up gradually along the rode and get away with as little as 15 or 20 minutes of intense line handling. If the waves remain and things are anything but perfect, however “retrieval is harder than you can imagine” (according to author and cruising instructor John Neal. As another sailor put it, “It’s like trying to reel in a giant squid from 20,000 fathoms down.”

Sizing a Sea Anchor Choosing a sea anchor begins with the size of your boat. Shewmon explains that his anchors function at their rated diameter “while the Para-Tech anchors are flat. That means that they curve when they fill with water so their working diameter is 30% less than their rated diameter.”

For example, a 6′ Para-Tech sea anchor equals the holding power of a Shewmon sea anchor only 4′ diameter, he said. Shewmon’s sizing guide suggests a 10.5′-diameter meter chute for a 35′ boat and a 13.5′ device for a 45-footer. Recommendations for Para-Tech equivalents are 16′ (for a 35-footer) and 20′ (for a 45-footer), respectively.

US Sailing’s Recommendations for Offshore Sailing puts forth a general guideline—sea anchor diameter should be approximately equal to one-third of a boat’s length overall. Says Victor Shane, a maker of para anchors as well as the author of the Drag Device Data Base, “Err on the larger side for safety, much as you would with ground tackle.” Fears of tethering to “immovable objects” have occasionally led sailors to fit their boats with under-sized chutes. Says Walter Greene of the 4′ Shewmon streamed from his 50′ catamaran Sebago, “I thought anything bigger would be too unyielding.” The boat survived 48 hours of 50-knot winds in mid-Atlantic, but her bows sheared off at 45°-60° throughout the storm.

The bigger the sea anchor the bigger the challenge involved in deploying and retrieving it. Getting it over the side is essentially a matter of preparation and technique. Set the chute to weather (to minimize chances of its sliding beneath the hull), “sneak” it directly into the water to keep it from blowing about, have the rode properly led, flaked and snubbed, and pay off under control (sail or power). Tension on the rode should open the chute. Given the elasticity in the system and the required (considerable, to say the least) scope, the shock of fetching up against it should be minor and not break anything.

Drogues Tests conducted by the American Society of Naval Architects and Marine Engineers have proven that a boat running before waves is likely to broach when waves approach a height equivalent to 35% of its waterline length. Steadied by a drogue, however, a boat will withstand waves as high as 55% of waterline length. And there are other virtues to towing a drogue.

Most often boats lose control running off before heavy weather because they are going too fast. Leaping off the top of one wave into the back of the one in front will, sooner or later, present problems. Calming your pace so that you stop short of pitchpoling, get a grip on broaching, and put a stop to pounding can be a simple matter of towing a drogue. Most of those available have shown that they can cut top speeds in half.

Drogues do more than that to help steering control. By holding the stern into the waves they limit yaw. By adjusting the drogue so that it pulls on your weather quarter you create an “anti-broaching” force. You can rig a bridle from the stern and use it to “pull the stern around” or lead the bridle to strong points forward of your rudder so that you can “tow the drogue around” with positive control.

“Drogues,” said Shewmon, “are for fair weather. Once waves start to break you want to deploy a sea anchor.”

It’s true that none of the drogues on the market today can “save the day” on its own the way a sea anchor might. Tethering to a sea anchor is primarily passive. You don’t trim sail, dodge waves, or do much more than monitor the situation. Running off is a more active approach. Boat type, sea room, crew reserves, storm avoidance, damage control…the factors that go into choosing which tactic to take are legion and complex. Drogues offer no absolute guarantees against pitchpoling, broaching, or capsize—but they do help the boat stayl end-on to the waves (running off). Keeping that choice open makes them valuable in heavy weather.

The drogues inherited from whalers and cod fishermen suited sailors well for a while. But boats got faster, loads got bigger, and a few flaws began to surface. Time-honored cones and the variations thereon tended to porpoise, swerve, oscillate and pulse as water flow increased. For good speed and steering control you need a steady pull. A new generation of drogues developed almost entirely since the Fastnet storm of 1979 now provides it.

Galerider. Developed by sailmaker Ed Raymond along with yachtsman Frank Snyder, this open-weave basket of webbing gets its pull from a small disc of heavy vinyl in the basket’s bottom. Shewmon’s tug tests (and testimonials from a number of sailors) indicate that it pulls straight with no tendency to yaw. Galeriders come in six sizes (from 18″ diameter to 48″) and have been described by sailors who have towed them as strong, durable, consistent, and simple to deploy and retrieve. John Neal favors it.

Seabrake GP-24. Evolved by Australian commercial fisherman John Abernethy, Seabrakes are based on variable flow. On the original solid Seabrake a baffle prevented most water from passing through it, making it provide tension enough for moderate steering and speed control. Increased water flow from increased speed opened the baffle to create turbulent water flow. That increased drag by as much as 70%. The successor drogue (GP-24) has a “staged system” of variable resistance to produce similar performance in a lighter device made from cloth. Seabrakes have been in use for 15 years and found favor with Down Under racers (like Sir Peter Blake) and cruisers in both multihulls and monohulls. They have limited availability in the US.

Attenborough Sea Drogue. Developed in the UK and used there by lifeboats and fishermen as well as sailors, this 25-lb. solid stainless steel weldment contains a series of angled vanes. As speed increases, flow over the vanes accelerates. That causes the device to dive deeper and “pull harder.” By adjusting the vanes to a shallower dive angle you can use the Sea Drogue for steering control alone. Stowage and retrieval of the solid unit present problems. It has yet to be marketed worldwide.

Shewmon Seamless Drogue. Sold in three sizes (27″, 54″, and 106″ widths) these drogues are made from single pieces of cloth. Shewmon has tug-tested the largest up to 9,000 lbs. of pull. Pull varies with the square of speed (tripling speed produces nine times the pull). Additional speed control can be achieved by adjusting the trip line and “shrinking” the drogue. However, as Shewmon warns, “Readers are advised to abandon all thoughts of partial tripping unless they are willing to spend considerable time and patience experimenting.”

Para-Tech Delta Drogue. Due to tri-corner exhaust vents, increased flow through this drogue produces increased drag, thus suiting the load to the conditions. Guide surface design promotes stability and the water flow helps assure that the drogue will retain its shape. Available for boats from 25′ to 80′ in length, the device comes in six sizes. Made from heavy, vinyl-coated fabric, the Delta stows easily and is relatively easy to retrieve.

Jordan Series Drogue. Towed from the stern like a conventional drogue, this device attempts to do the job of a sea anchor by aggressively holding the boat end-on into the seas. Donald Jordan, its inventor, is a veteran of the aircraft industry and former MIT professor. Jordan’s answer is a series drogue, a rode arrayed with a series of small cones and stretched downward and aft by a weight. Depending on the size of the boat, 90 or more 5″ cones are spliced in line to a 300′ tow line at 20″ intervals. Jordan said that an average (25,000-pound) boat will need about 130 cones.

Sailors who have used Jordan’s drogue say that it works well.

“It slowed our speed to between 0 and 1/4 knot. Yaw was only 5° either side of heading,” reported Gary Danielson of using the device aboard his 25′ monohull in 25-30 knots. The problem that arises, however, is that the boat’s stern quarters tend to be held where they are vulnerable to assault from waves.

Jordan counters, “The approaching water mass is essentially wedge-shaped. In most cases a breaking wave slides under the stern and lifts it rather than smashing down on it.”

“I disagree,” said Steve Dashew, circumnavigator and author of the new book, Surviving The Storm (order at www.setsail.com), who supplied photos for this article. “You can’t discount the impact of a breaking wave. Some boats are well-protected aft, perhaps with center cockpits, but many others, with exposed cockpits, lockers, and companionways are vulnerable. The wisdom of riding stern-to the storm thus depends almost entirely on the type of boat that you have.”

Recommendation—Sea Anchors You might get an inexpensive conical device or prospect the offerings of such far-flung para-anchor purveyors as Coppins, Ltd. (New Zealand) or Para-Anchors Australia. However, after reading hundreds of case histories and talking to sailors and manufacturers we have found little or nothing to justify taking your sea anchor search that far afield. Design and construction of the basic parachute varies somewhat, but the track records, accessibility, and commitment of the two proven and accessible American manufacturers—Para-Tech Engineering and Shewmon, Inc.—make them ones you may wish to consider.

Dan Whilldin, Para-Tech president, is a veteran of more than 30 years of working with parachutes, both for aircraft and for boats. Feedback from the sailors who have used his sea anchors was a big factor in developing the deployable stowage bag that lets you set your Para-Tech by simply dropping the bag (with rode attached) overboard. To us this appears a significant advantage and one that sets Para-Tech apart from Shewmon, whose larger canopies need to be rolled and stopped with twine to ready them for use. Coupled with a significant weight difference (Para-Tech = 17 lbs., Shewmon = 50 lbs.) for comparable sea anchors, Para-Tech is the easier of the two to set.

Shewmon sea anchors are heavily built. A mining engineer and inventor, Dan Shewmon made his own sea anchors for his cruising motorsailer, then went on, in 1978, to found Shewmon, Inc., which now makes and sells a variety of anchors and drogues also of his own design. An anchor for the average (35′-40′) monohull is made from 7-oz. knitted, slightly porous Dacron cloth. “Water is non-compressible and 853 times heavier than air,” he argues. “Common sense dictates that sea anchor cloth should be considerably heavier than parachute cloth.”

Para-Tech employs zero-porosity, high tensile (approximately 2-oz.) nylon in its canopies. Shewmon’s Dacron is undoubtedly stronger. But Para-Tech’s nylon has proven (in Dan Shewmon’s own tug tests) that it can survive loads greater than those seen in recommended use. Further, more than 30 reports in Victor Shane’s Drag Device Data Base tell of setting Para-Tech anchors in winds up to 85 knots, seas over 25 feet, and for as long as 53 hours. Only one account mentions cloth failure: two “well-frayed holes between vent and skirt were found upon retrieval, but there’s no doubt the anchor saved the boat,” said skipper Stephen Edwards of Adelaide, Australia.

Shewmon argues that the porosity of his cloth stabilizes the canopy. Para-Tech points to the resiliency nylon cloth gives to its anchors, better enabling them to absorb loads. There are also significant design differences. Shewmon has created a hybrid of conical and flat shapes with a deeply scalloped (rather than dimpled à la a parachute) circumference. Para-Tech chutes, modeled closely on the standard BU ORD drop chute, depend on a swivel in the system. Shewmon contends that swivels aren’t reliable and that he has “designed out” oscillation.

Pulling power?

Says one chute deployer, “Despite my para-anchor being clearly undersized by manufacturer recommendations, it held us like a brick wall (in winds of 35 knots and 20-foot seas).”

Yawing and oscillation?

Neither are reported as problems in Shane’s Drag Device Data Base.

Commendable as Shewmon’s durability appears and as persuasive as his arguments may be against swivels, we don’t see how the Shewmon differences translate into improved sea anchor performance. Both systems are equally cranky and awkward to retrieve. Making a choice then shifts to the last variable—ease of deployment—for which the Para-Tech seems to have the edge.

Recommendation—Drogues The Jordan Series Drogue is in a class by itself. Much more of a sea anchor than a true drogue, it fixes a boat end-on to the wind and waves with a resilient efficiency that wins praise from all quarters. Your boat has to be designed and built to survive seas stern-on, however, before the JSD becomes a good option.

The Galerider and Delta are simple to use. They deploy without fuss, create high drag at relatively low loads, and pull with a firm steadiness that makes them ideal for steering control. Both rely on swivels. The recommended use of a length of chain to hold the Delta below the surface adds, we feel, unwanted complexity. Galerider’s open-flow design seems less-likely to become unbalanced than the tri-corner system seen in Delta. Galerider costs, however, nearly twice what Delta does.

The Shewmon Seamless Drogue offers the fascinating potential of controllable drag and incorporates the ingenuity of an egg-weighted lower side and a hole-vented upper lip to promote stability and “grip.” These elements make it more complex, however. Given the consistent and effective performance of its simpler competitors, it seems to us that the Shewmon drogue (made from a single piece of cloth and therefore seamless) may take more adjustment and getting used to than the others. But, at $79 (54″ model) it is only half the price of its nearest competitor. That might make it a worthwhile experiment.

Experience at sea has shown the GP-24 (and the solid state Seabrake from which it evolved) to be effective, but these Australian-made devices are hard to get in the US. The solid Attenborough Sea Drogue from the UK is cumbersome to stow. Also, sea trials indicate that deployment is not a simple matter.

Because drogues are more versatile, adjustable, and easier to use than sea anchors, any of the ones we examined might be useful. Because it combines value, function, and proven performance, our selection is the Delta drogue.

Contacts- Attenborough Sea Drogues, (Dr. Neil Attenborough), Fallowfield House, Puttenham, Guildford, Surrey GU3 1AH UK; (44) 1483-300366, fax (44) 1483-34496. Fiorentino Para Anchor, 1048 Irvine Ave. #489, Newport Beach, CA 92660; 800/777-0732; www.paraanchor.com. Galerider, Hathaway, Reiser & Raymond, 184 Sellect St., Stamford, CT 06902; 203/424-9581; www.hathaway.com. Jordan Series Drogue, Ace Sailmaker, Hellier’s Yacht Sales, 128 Howard St., New London, CT 06320; 860/443-5556; www.acesails.com. Para-Anchor International, (Victor Shane), PO Box 19, Summerland, CA 93067; 805/966-9782; fax 805/966-7510. Para-Tech Engineering, 2117 Horseshoe Trail, Silt, CO 81652; 970/876-0558; www.seaanchor.com. Seabrake International, (John Abernethy), RFD (Australia), 3/7 Kent Rd., Mascot, Sydney, NSW 2020, Australia; (61) 29-667-0480, fax (61) 29-693-1242. Shewmon, 1000 Harbor Lake Dr., Safety Harbor, FL 34695; 727/447-0091.

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The link to the Sea Anchors and Drogues Value Guide is broken. I would like to look at that guide. Can the link be fixed or the guide emailed to me? Thanks!

Thanks for the article. Very informing. I have a Fraser 36 . It has a high , possibly ” Clipper ” bow with a lot of reserve buoyancy. We have a rear cockpit and a traditional three board with a sliding main hatch . We tend to yawn quite a bit at anchor . The bow lifts very readily , maybe too readily, in steep choppy waves . I am wondering how these attributes would affect the choice between a drogue and a sea anchor . I would have gone with a drogue, if not for thought of sea breaking on our rear hatch .

The three washboard companionway problem can be solved by installing thick hinged Barn Doors on the outside of your washboards. Lockable from inside and out.

The Barn Doors provide increased impact resistance plus give you other (less fiddly) options when closing your companionway.

Barn Doors backed by your Washboards will keep you dry.

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How to Anchor a Sailboat

Follow These Guidelines to Anchor Safely and Securely

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The Importance of Good Anchoring Technique

Few sailing experiences are as scary as waking in the middle of the night with the wind blowing hard and your boat dragging anchor toward rocks, the shore, or another boat. And one of the most irritating things for most cruising sailors is finding another boat dragging down upon them or getting tangled in their own anchor line.

Good anchoring technique is crucial for safety. Yet all too often even some experienced sailors are in too much of a hurry and skip one of the important steps for anchoring securely. Some new sailors never learn the essentials and just toss the anchor overboard and assume they’ll be fine.

But it is not difficult to anchor correctly and securely in most conditions. Follow these guidelines to help ensure your boat is safely anchored so you can get a good night’s sleep.

1. Prepare in Advance

• Pick your anchorage carefully using an updated chart and paying attention to conditions, including wind direction and speed, likely tidal or other currents, and the forecast. Pay special attention to the chances for a shift in wind direction or speed. If your boat is pulled in the opposite direction during the night because of a reversing tidal current or wind, the anchor may be pulled out.
• The ideal anchorage area should have some protection from the wind and waves and not be against a lee shore in case the anchor drags. The ideal bottom is sand or mud, not rock or heavy seaweed or grass. Most cruising guides and some charts show good anchorages that are protected and have good holding ground. Charts also show bottom characteristics when known.
• Get the anchor ready before making your approach. Whether on a bow roller or lowered by hand from the bow, make sure the anchor rode is free to run. If the anchor rode is not marked at progressive depths with tags or color codes, stretch it out back and forth on deck so that you know how much rode you are letting out when anchoring. To be safe, plan to put out a rode about 7 times the water depth (counting the height of your bow over the water) at high tide.

2. Pick Your Spot Carefully

• After studying the chart and choosing a general protected area, look for a spot with the right depth: from a few feet deeper than the draft of your boat (at low tide) to as deep as 30-40 feet if necessary—if you have at least 200-300 feet of anchor rode.
• Make sure you are well clear of any channel regardless of how the boat swings with wind shifts, and that there are no hazards if your boat were to swing in a full circle around the anchor.
• When other boats are already anchored nearby, follow good anchoring etiquette to stay safe without risking collision or entanglement. The general rule is that the first boat in an anchorage can choose its spot at will and each subsequent boat must stay clear of others already present.
• Calculate how much swinging room you may need if the wind changes, based on how much anchor rode you will pay out according to the water depth. If possible, make sure your swinging circle does not overlap with any other boat’s swinging room.
• In a crowded anchorage where your swinging room may have to overlap another boat’s, choose a spot among similar boats. Most cruising sailboats with a keel will swing in the same direction at the same time and therefore should not collide if not positioned too close together. But a shallow-draft powerboat will swing on the wind differently from a keel sailboat, increasing the risk of collision if their swinging circles overlap.

3. Approach Slowly

• Although you can learn to anchor under sail, most cruising boats lower or furl the sails before making the approach into the anchorage, and anchor under power. Using the engine also gives you more control if a last-minute maneuver is needed.
• Approach your planned spot into the wind, keeping an eye on your depthfinder or chartplotter to ensure you are where you want to be on the chart. If there is a strong current in the area that affects the boat more than the wind, approach into the current instead.
• As you near the spot, slow down to allow the boat to coast to a stop. If you come in fast and have to use the engine in reverse to stop, there’s a good chance the boat may pivot or turn during the reversing, and the boat then will not at first pull directly back on the anchor. There’s seldom any reason to be in a hurry at this point.
• Double-check to make sure you are not too close to another boat and are at the intended depth. If you decide you need to move to either side, circle back around to make your approach again to the new spot upwind or current.

4. Lower, Don’t Drop, the Anchor

• Wait until the person at the helm says the boat has stopped completely and is starting to move backward on the wind or current before lowering the anchor. (Watch your GPS speed if you’re not sure.) If the boat is still moving ahead, you may accidentally set the anchor in the wrong direction by pulling it ahead instead of drifting back to set it.
• It is important to lower the anchor gradually to prevent the anchor rode from falling down on the anchor flukes and possibly fouling the anchor. In that case you may not realize the anchor has not set well, and if the wind comes up later the anchor can easily drag if fouled. Never just toss the anchor over hoping for the best!
• You can tell when the anchor reaches the bottom because of the reduced strain on the rode. Pause a moment to let the boat move back and pull the rode tight. If the boat is floating motionless in the absence of wind and current, tell the person at the helm to put the engine in reverse to start the boat backward. Your goal here is to align the anchor correctly on the bottom, with its shank pulled back in the direction in which the boat will lie at anchor. Otherwise, the anchor chain may foul the shank or flukes and prevent the anchor from setting well.

5. Set the Anchor

• Making sure the anchor is well set (that is, dug in well in the bottom) is the most important part of anchoring. The anchor holds the boat by digging its flukes into the bottom, not by just lying there like a weight on the bottom. If the anchor is not set, the boat may seem well anchored until the wind comes up—when the anchor will then bounce along the bottom as the boat drags toward a hazard.
• As the boat moves backwards due to wind, current, or the engine’s power in reverse, gradually pay out the rode. Always keep a light tension on the line, but don’t yet clinch it tight. (If you tighten the rode too soon, the anchor will be pulled upward and out of the bottom and will not set.)
• Visualize the anchor rode pulling straight back on the anchor shank as the point(s) of the anchor fluke(s) dig in. If your anchor rode is all chain or has a section of chain at the anchor, the pull will be more nearly horizontal along the bottom. This is how anchors are designed to dig in and hold.
• When you have about 3 times as much anchor rode out as the water depth (a scope of 3 to 1), temporarily cleat or cinch the anchor rode at the bow and let it pull tight. Keep a hand on the rode to feel the tension. The boat should stop and the rode feel very tight, indicating the anchor has set. If the anchor has not set, you will feel the tension in the rode come and go or feel its pull changing as the anchor bounces along the bottom.
• If the anchor has set, continue with the next step of paying out scope. If it has not set, you can also continue but must be very careful to ensure the anchor digs in when you have the proper scope. If the anchor has not set yet with about a 3 to 1 scope, many sailors prefer to hoist it now and try again rather than letting out more anchor rode and having to bring it all back up to try again later.

6. Pay Out the Proper Scope

• Continue paying out the rode as the boat moves backward, until you reach the desired scope. Many factors affect the scope needed, including the type of boat, the type of anchor, whether the rode is all chain or a combination of chain and line, the characteristics of the bottom, and the wind predicted.
• As a general rule, most cruisers prefer a scope of 7 to 1 for safe anchoring overnight. For a lunch stop in a calm anchorage, a scope of 5 to 1 or less may be sufficient, assuming someone stays on the boat in case the wind increases dramatically. With higher winds or big waves, a scope as high as 10 to 1 may be appropriate. Remember that the scope should be based on the high tide water depth. If you anchor at low tide in 10 feel of water and the depth 6 hours later is 20 feet, your scope then would be only half of what it was.
• Once you have the proper scope, back down hard on the anchor using the boat's engine to ensure it is well set. The rode should be very tight and not give at all while backing.
• Scope can be adjusted later if conditions change, simply by letting out more rode if desired. This increases your swinging distance, of course, so you should confirm you will remain far enough away from other boats or hazards.

7. Check the Anchor Periodically

• Even when you’re sure the anchor is well set, changing conditions can result in the anchor dragging. Before relaxing completely for the night, make sure you can tell later on if the boat is dragging.
• Your GPS or plotter can reveal changes of position, although small changes may not be noticeable or may be interpreted as just swinging in a different direction. If possible, take sightings on at least two features on shore (choose something that will be visible at night) and note the compass bearings to each. If these bearings change significantly later, you may be dragging. A smartphone or tablet app like My Anchor Watch can also help ensure you know it if your anchor is starting to drag.
• Another technique used by old-timers is to let down a small second anchor or weight from the stern just to the point where it rests on the bottom, and then drape it over the boom and dangle a noise-maker like a bucket or pot tied to the free end. If the boat moves very far, the line will pull the noisemaker over the boom to clang down into the cockpit, hopefully waking you to take action if needed!
• If you suspect you may be dragging, check the anchor rode at the bow. You may feel or see changes in its tension if the anchor is bumping over the bottom. If you have any evidence of dragging, monitor the situation very carefully. In calmer conditions the anchor may reset, but with gusty or heavy winds it will likely not dig in by itself, and you may have to hoist the anchor and move to a new position and start over.
• Finally, in an emergency situation if the anchor is dragging or a gale puts you at risk of dragging—particularly against a reef or lee shore—you can avert disaster by running the engine slowly in forward gear to take some of the strain off the anchor rode.

A common anchoring problem occurs if the anchor's flukes hook under a rock, chain, or other bottom debris and prevent the anchor from being hoisted. Try backing pulling the anchor up from the opposite direction in an attempt to free it. The best solution is to use a  trip line  or the  AnchorRescue  retrieval device to prevent the risk of losing your anchor should it become snagged.

Anchoring involves a number of skills, which improve with experience. Many books have been written on the subject, and when cruising in unfamiliar waters or far from home where you may be caught in a tricky situation, it’s a good idea to have a book on anchoring or seamanship on board to consult for appropriate techniques in unusual circumstances.

Other Articles about Anchoring

• How to Use an Anchor Trip Line
• How to Retrieve an Anchor
• Use AnchorRescue to Prevent Losing a Fouled Anchor
• Best Sailing and Boating Apps
• How to Tow a Dinghy Behind a Sailboat
• How to Raise the Mainsail
• How to Whip a Line End Using the Oldest and Best Method
• Choosing an Inboard or Outboard Engine
• The Sunfish: A Perfect Lake or Urban Sailboat
• Learn How to Sail a Small Sailboat – 1. The Parts of the Boat
• How to Tack a Sailboat
• How to Boat
• How to Gybe a Sailboat
• Using AIS on Your Sailboat
• Choosing a Centerboard or Fixed Keel Sailboat
• Correct Scope is Essential for Safe and Comfortable Anchoring
• When to Adjust Sailboat Sails for Stronger Winds
• How to Use a Sailboat's Outhaul
• The Types of Sailboat Rudders

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Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

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Russian River Cruise – Waterways of the Tsars

Updated December 14, 2017

// By Margherita

Back to Russia! Did you follow our Russian river cruise in August and September? We travelled between Moscow and St Petersburg on the Waterways of the Tsars Viking River Cruise – here’s what we got up to!

We both share a deep connection with Russia. I was named after the heroine of Master and Margarita , one of the best Russian books of the 20th century. Nick is actually of Russian ancestry – his maternal great-grandparents were from St Petersburg, and spent the best part of 50 years wandering around Europe escaping wars and revolutions, before settling in Australia .

Russia has been at the top of our travel dreams for several years , but somehow something always came up whenever we made plans to visit. Once we couldn’t get a visa on time. Another time we couldn’t get time off. Winter is too cold, summer is too hot.

This year, Russia was one of our travel resolutions . Our desire was for the trip to be special – something different from what we’d done so far. We wanted a higher level of comfort, help with visa arrangements, and a trip that would help us understand the country we longed to visit for so many years . The Waterways of the Tsars river cruise with Viking ticked all boxes, so we made arrangements for a departure from Moscow in late August.

Things to Know Before a Russian River Cruise with Viking

When we announced our friends we would be travelling on a Russian river cruise , some of them were really surprised. A CRUISE? You guys are such hardcore independent travellers! What are you doing ON A CRUISE with all those OLD PEOPLE? True, the average age on a Viking river cruise might be a fair bit higher than 35 – but really, who is to say we wouldn’t enjoy the experience?

This awesome post by One Modern Couple  really nails the point – a Viking river cruise is an experience that can be enjoyed by people of all ages. In their words ‘River cruises are cultural, experiential, educational and scenic. Enjoy the ride, take in the surroundings, learn about the countries you are visiting – from history to local life, food to language – and experience the destinations in a thoughtful way.’ 

Whether you’re 30, 60 or 90, it doesn’t really matter.

Secondly,  who’s to say that travelling in a group is not ‘real’ travel? We have always been (and continue to be) lovers of independent travel, but sometimes you just can’t beat the insights given to you by a local guide . Viking River Cruises offer plenty of guided tours included in the cruise price, all led by experienced local guides.

Meals were always excellent – breakfast and lunch included a combination of buffet and à la carte specialties, while dinner was always à la carte. Every day we were given the choice to sample some Russian specialties, like beef stroganoff, borsch, pelmeni, solyanka and lots of delicious desserts.

Another great plus of a Russian river cruise with Viking is that during sailing time lots of cultural activities are on offer – things like cooking demonstrations, Russian language lessons and lectures about Russian history and culture, led by the local tour escorts who were with us for the whole duration of the trip. On top of that, every day we received a briefing detailing the following day’s activities, optional excursions and that night’s menu.

Whenever we passed points of interest on the boat, such as Mother Volga statue or the sunken Kalyazin Cathedral, we were always called out on the loudspeaker to make sure we wouldn’t miss them. There was no pressure to join in any of the activities – we could spend the whole day chilling on the deck or on our veranda, looking at the beautiful colourful churches built on the riverbank, surrounded by nothing but nature.

Waterways of the Tsars – the Itinerary

The Waterways of the Tsars cruise is 13 days long, starting either in Moscow or in St. Petersburg . Most Russian river cruises had always been described to me as ‘Volga Cruises’ – in fact, our boat cruised along a variety of waterways, including the Moscow Canal, the Volga-Baltic Waterway, the Rybinsk Reservoir, Lake Onega and Ladoga (the two largest lakes in Europe) and the Neva River (the shortest in Europe!)

Here’s a map to give you an idea of the route.

Days 1-4 Moscow

Three days were barely enough to get an idea of how amazing Moscow is. Our days were packed from morning to night with tours and activities – from visiting Moscow must visits like Red Square, the Kremlin, the Moscow Metro and the Arbat, to quirky locations like the Museum of Cosmonautics , located in one of Moscow’s best districts for Communist architecture (one of our passions!)

Even though our itinerary was packed full, we managed to spend half a day touring Moscow independently , visiting some of the sights mentioned in The Master and Margarita – Patriarch’s Ponds, both Bulgakov Museums and Sparrow Hill. Let’s just say that we need to get back to Moscow soon to explore more! Meanwhile, here’s our things to do in Moscow for first timers article, detailing our Moscow visit with Viking.

Day 5 Uglich

After setting sail from Moscow, our first stop was Uglich , a cute town on the Volga River, famous for its pretty churches and for being the location of one of the darkest chapters in Russian history .

After the death of Ivan the Terrible, his youngest son and heir to the throne Dmitry was exiled to Uglich, where he was murdered at the age of 10. Suspicion fell on the tsar’s chief advisor, but Dmitry’s cause of death (i.e. throat slitting) was ruled to be an accident. This episode started a period of political unsettlement, that ended with the start of the Romanov dynasty.

We spent an afternoon around Uglich , starting with a home visit of a local family where we had the chance to try homemade grain vodka (the best we’ve had in Russia) and a variety of pickled vegetables, tea and cakes. Then, we toured the Kremlin – the word ‘kremlin’ actually means fortified city, and several Russian cities have one. Moscow’s Kremlin just happens to be the best known!

Day 6 Yaroslavl

The following morning we reached Yaroslavl , a much larger city compared to Uglich. It looked like the perfect Russian city – large enough not to get bored (there was even a cat cafe!) but small enough not to get frustrated with the traffic and crowds found in Moscow or St. Petersburg.

Our Yaroslavl visit was centred around four points of interest . The centre of Yaroslavl is located on the Strelka, a promontory formed at the confluence of the Volga and Kotorosl rivers. Our first stop was the covered market , where we tasted some local products, and then we headed to the Church of Elijah the Prophet , where we had a guided tour (and played with some cute cats). Afterwards, we visited the Governor’s Mansion , now an art gallery. We were welcomed by some beautiful ladies in period costumes, and treated to a music concert. Our final stop was the Yaroslavl Kremlin , where we admired the façade of the Dormition Cathedral, destroyed by the Bolsheviks and rebuilt and reopened in 2010 in time for Yaroslavl’s millennium celebrations.

Before heading back to the ship, we stopped at the lookout over the Millennium of Yaroslavl Park at the end of the Strelka – the flowerbed right in the centre displays a bear (Yaroslavl’s coat of arms) and the city’s age – 1006 at the time of our visit. Looking good!

Day 7 Kuzino

Kuzino is a small village in in the middle of nowhere – we visited on a chilly and rainy morning, to visit the stunning Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery , the largest in Europe. The Monastery is surrounded by walls and located on the shores of Severskoye Lake, with waters so pure that boat traffic is prohibited.

Kirillo-Belozersky was founded at the end of the 14th century, and had its heyday between the 15th and 17th century, when Russia’s tsars and noblemen (including Ivan the Terrible!) paid frequent visits and showered the monks with icons and precious gifts. Luckily the Bolsheviks spared the monastery from destruction, turning it into a museum instead. The day we visited was the feast of the Assumption and the churches were crowded with locals, but we had a lovely guided tour of the museum and time to appreciate its beautiful icons.

Day 8 Kizhi (Sailing)

Whenever travelling, you always need a plan B. Autumn was well on its way by the time we reached the northernmost section of our cruise, and we were held at a lock for the best part of one night due to thick fog . This meant we had to sail the whole day and miss out on Kizhi , a tiny island on the northern side of Onega Lake, famous for its spectacular wooden churches.

We were all disappointed when boat staff made the announcement – personally, Kizhi was one of the stops I was looking forward to the most, after reading about it on the Guardian and knowing that the site is very difficult to visit without a river cruise. However, we didn’t mind too much because we were both suffering the consequences of the previous night’s vodka tasting , organised by Frank, the hotel manager who also happened to be a real vodka connoisseur!

Viking staff were really amazing at keeping us busy during the sailing day with activities like guided tours to the wheelhouse, the room where the captain and sailors pilot the ship.

Day 9 Mandrogy

The last stop before reaching St. Petersburg was Mandrogy , a village on the banks of the Svir River, built in 1996 as a replica of a village destroyed during WW2. A Russian businessman had the idea of ‘rebuilding’ Mandrogy to provide a stop to river cruise passengers before reaching St. Petersburg. So, the village is not actually ‘real’ – it’s more of an open air museum. Cute little painted houses were built around a little forest, with people in traditional dress showcasing traditional crafts and selling souvenirs.

Those in search of souvenirs loved Mandrogy – the quality of matrioshka dolls, icons and other handicrafts was far higher than anywhere else we had been. We are not into souvenirs, but if there was a place to get something, Mandrogy would be it. The village was pretty, but it felt a bit fake for us – kind of like a tourist amusement park. Which in a way, it is.

However, we did enjoy Mandrogy for two reasons – the first was the chance to attend matrioshka painting workshop  where we decorated our own matrioshka dolls. That’s the best kind of souvenir in my opinion! The second was the delicious piroshki place where we had some delicious buttery pastries filled with green onion and egg. Just ask Viking staff and they’ll point you the way to the piroshki place!

Days 10-13 St. Petersburg

After 6 days spent cruising, covering a distance of 1800 kilometers, we made it to Saint Petersburg . We had three gorgeous sunny days, and the city dazzled us with its beauty and artistic wealth – after all, it’s UNESCO-listed ! There’s no way I can convey everything we saw and did in three days in just a couple of paragraphs, so watch this space – a St. Petersburg article is coming soon!

There are several St. Petersburg experiences already included by Viking in the tour price – a visit to the Hermitage Museum, a ballet performance, a visit to Catherine Palace in the village of Pushkin and a St. Petersburg city tour, either on foot or by bus. On top of that, we also joined some optional tours – a river cruise, a morning tour to amazing Peterhof Palace and my very own favourite, a Cossack performance!

Things to Know Before Travelling to Russia

• Make sure you sort out your Russian Visa on time . Viking Cruises helps with an invitation letter that you can use to apply for your own Russian visa at your closest consulate – the process is pretty straightforward, provided you are applying in your own country, and takes approximately 2-3 weeks.
• You can also ask Viking to sort out your Russian visa for an additional charge . This is especially convenient if you live in the US or if your hometown doesn’t have a Russian consulate.
• River cruises of Russia only run between April and October, when the waterways are not frozen. The weather can be change dramatically between Moscow and Saint Petersburg , the latter usually being much colder than the former. Make sure you check the weather reports before packing!
• English isn’t widely spoken around Russia , not even in the main cities. If you’re planning to spend some time travelling independently, learning a bit of Russian is a VERY good idea. The Russian language classes we had on board came in very handy!
• Russia’s currency is the rouble , which fluctuates quite a bit. Larger cities are full of moneychangers, and some souvenir shops (like those in Mandrogy) also accept euro and USD.

We would like to thank Viking Cruises for having welcomed us aboard the Waterways of the Tsars cruise.

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2 thoughts on “Russian River Cruise – Waterways of the Tsars”

Truly amazing place & photography! I loved the view of church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, looks awesome. I enjoyed reading. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Thank you for reading! It was a fab trip!

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