yacht keel types

Sailboat Keel Types: A Complete Guide

A keel is a very important part of a sailboat, crucial to its stability and ability to sail upwind. This article will discuss the fundamentals of all keels down to the details of the best keel for your boat. We will answer questions including what it does, what it's made of, and even some problems that a keel can cause. By the end of this article, you will be an expert on all things keels!

Table of contents

What Is a Keel?

A keel is the robust underwater centerline of a boat, and often extends into a long, hydrodynamically shaped blade.. It can vary in size and shape depending on the make and model of the boat. But, generally, it will look very much like a fin. If you imagine the fin on the underside of a surfboard you will have a pretty good idea of what it looks like under the boat.

It is crucial to helping with steering and control. The word keel itself comes from Norse and Dutch roots. The word simply means a structural component of the boat. You may have heard the term keel-haul, where pirates would drag someone underneath the boat across its keel. This is pretty barbaric, but it shows just how long a keel has been an important part of the boat. From Vikings to pirates to modern sailboats it has always remained an important part of a sailboat.

What is a keel made of?

A keel will typically be made of whatever the rest of the hull is made of. If the boat is wooden, it will most likely have a wooden keel. If the boat is metal, the keel will be metal, and so on. Sometimes, particularly on fiberglass boats, the core of a keel will be reinforced with lead or a similar ballast while the outside is covered with fiberglass.

The keel needs to be strong enough to withstand a lot of pressure and strain. Traditionally Viking sailing boats would have a wooden keel with some metal plating on it. Casting metal was tedious so putting it on your boat was seen as a waste. Traditional wooden sailing boats, like you would imagine pirates sailing, would also have a wooden keel. It would be made from thick hardwood like oak and could also be metal plated.

Since it is used to control the direction it must brunt the force of the change of direction. If you imagine a boat turning sharply, there will be a lot of pressure on the side that is on the outside of the turn. The hull of your boat will stand up to this pressure easily, as it is very large and very strong. The keel must be strong enough to withstand this too. The keel also can drag on the ocean floor or the boat ramp as the boat is lowered into the water. For this reason, it needs to be strong enough to hold up to the weight and pressure of the boat too. If it were made of plastic it would break every time you brought the boat in and out of the water.

What does a keel do?

The keel is there primarily for stability and guidance. The keel provides all sorts of benefits to the boat. It improves the righting moment and controls the boat’s sideways movement. The keel will also typically hold the boat’s ballast. The ballast keeps the boat weighed down and helps prevent capsizing. The ballast is typically made of lead, sand, or water.

Keels can be fixed or moveable. Some keels can be removed completely or may just retract slightly so they aren’t damaged when the boat enters or exits the water. When a boat leans to one side, because it is turning or there is strong wind/waves, the keel provides the righting moment that keeps the boat from flipping. On larger boats, it is designed to be so heavy that ig will be able to recover a boat from almost any angle of heel. Without a keel, your boat may tip too far or roll completely. On bigger ships, this can be disastrous. In its ability to prevent this alone, the keel is one of the most important parts of the ship.

Does my sailboat need a keel?

Yes, you do need a keel. Pretty much all sailboats have a keel, with exceptions for multi-hulled and/or smaller boats.  

In the case of catamarans, the very design principles that lead to the dual-hull design render the keel obsolete. The stability introduced by the outrigged, dual-hulls replaces the necessary righting moment from the keel. Because almost all the structure of a catamaran is between the two hulls, unlike a monohull which builds out from and around its centerline, there is not a lot of weight pressing out to flip the boat. Related to this, since most catamarans have the length of their hulls pressing into the water, the steering force normally placed on a keel is distributed across the length of the two hulls, which additionally will carry their own ballast.

On smaller dinghies, a small swinging centerboard or daggerboard will suffice to play the role of a keel. The centerboards can be big enough to keep the boat flowing nicely through the water without the need for a large keel. Additionally, it is not a disaster for a small sailing or racing dinghy to capsize, as they are designed to do so and recover rather easily, so the ballast from the keel is also not terribly necessary. 

If you have a motorboat you wouldn’t need a keel, unless it is a very large container ship or military vessel. The reason being that they are outboard propelled. The leg provides enough stability on its own. This is only the case with full plane powerboats. Displacement (even semi-displacement) craft will still need a keel of sorts for stability purposes.

What are some downsides to having a longer keel?

If you have a long keel that doesn’t retract or detach, you may have some problems coming in or out of the water. The keel extends far below the bottom of the boat, so if you are bringing your boat up or down a boat ramp you may find that it scrapes on the bottom. If you are not careful, you may damage the keel rather badly.

Since the keel is made of metal, wood, or fiberglass it can bear the brunt of the weight quite well. If you are putting your boat in the water and cannot retract the keel, it is a good idea to go as far into the water as possible before taking your boat off its trailer. The deeper you are in the water when the boat is released the better.

Are there any nautical traditions about the keel of the boat?

The keel is interestingly very important when it comes to boat or shipbuilding.

Traditionally, the keel is one of the first parts of the ship to be made, as the rest of the ship must sometimes be built around it. This tradition is called “laying the keel,” and is a momentous occasion. It is essentially the boat’s birthday. The boat’s age is dated from this moment, and there is also typically a celebration of sorts. This goes back to the days of seafaring exploration. The only day more important in a boat’s life is the day it is finally launched.

Can other types of boats have keels?

Yes! Many other types of boats have keels, not just sailboats. A good example would be a big shipping trawler. These trawlers are very large and need all the help they can get to stay balanced. Because of this, they often have what’s called a bar keel. This is a large rectangular piece of metal that runs along the bottom of the boat’s hull. It is very thick and heavy. The idea is that it gives the boat some more directional control when steering.

Furthermore, it helps keep the trawler balanced when out at sea in rough conditions. The extra weight keeps the boat’s center of gravity as low as possible. This makes tipping the boat almost impossible. It does slow it down a bit, but that is a small price to pay for increased safety.

Huge cargo ships also have a keel, though it is different from a bar. Their keel is known as a plate keel. It is essentially another layer of the boat under the hull. Its only purpose is added weight and protection. A plate keel runs along the centreline of the bottom plate of the ship so the weight is all concentrated in the lowest place possible. This kind of keel works similarly to how the spine of a person does. It keeps your back strong and as straight as possible.

How important is it to keep my keel clean?

It is very important to keep your keel clean, just as it is important to keep the rest of your hull clean.

For any boat kept on the water rather than hauled out every day, there is always the need to clean the hulls and keels of any barnacles and other sea growth. Barnacles not only affect your performance, but can, in the long run, greatly increase your maintenance costs if not regularly addressed. 

To do so, you have to do what is known as scraping. Scraping is the process of physically scraping off all the barnacles and other sea life that has attached itself to the underside of your boat. Many marinas offer this service, but you can do it on your own with a basic plastic paint scraper and a wetsuit. When you do this, it is key to get all the way down to the bottom of the keel and all across the hull. If you don’t scrape it off, it can start to erode your boat away over time. It can also slow you down.The barnacles and other marine life create a very rough bottom. This creates more friction and will reduce your speed more and more the worse it gets. 

It is important to check with your port authority before you start scraping. Scraping is not allowed in some places as you may introduce invasive species to the area. It depends where you have been more than where you are. If you sailed from New York to Chicago, you will be fine. If you sailed from Cuba to New York, probably not so much.

How to maintain a sailboat keel

As mentioned above, it is important to scrape your keel from time to time. While racing boats will actually do this before every day at an event, it is at least a good idea for you to do this a couple of times a season. A great time to do this is when you plan on applying that season’s bottom paint, though anytime you plan to go on your boat is a good excuse to maintain!

You may want to cut off any of the kelp and seaweed that wraps itself around the keel. This is more likely to happen if you have a fin keel. If you do find that there is a lot of kelp and seaweed wrapped around it, you will want to buy yourself a kelp cutter. Unfortunately, the only way to cut the kelp off without taking the boat out of the water is to dive in and do it yourself. It is a good idea to do this in shallow-ish water with the proper flags displayed to inform other boaters that there is someone in the water. Swimming around under your boat, even when it isn’t moving, can be dangerous.

What do I do if my keel breaks at sea?

It is very rare for keels to just break off. It is even rarer at sea. After all, what is going to break it off? The only way a keel will break off ordinarily is if you run aground.

If you should accidentally make your way into shallow waters and break your keel off it is a good idea to set sail for home. You will manage well enough in the short term but will struggle over time. You are far more likely to capsize without the keel keeping you balanced.

If you have a detachable keel it is a good idea to keep a replacement. If one breaks off, you can just install the spare one. This isn’t the easiest thing to do at sea in rough conditions, but it is possible. Make a judgment call using your common sense whether it is worth the risk or not.

Another reason your keel might break or come loose is if the keel bolts come out. These bolts are what holds the keel in place. If you happen to have a keel held on by bolts, then doing proper maintenance is even more important. If the bolts come loose, the keel can come loose.

Since the keel is typically welded on to the boat’s hull the chances of it coming off completely are slim to none. Most often, running aground on a sandbar or anything short of an incredibly rocky bottom in heavy weather will crack off a piece or severely bend the keel, which requires a major repair. If you do notice that the keel is loose, you are better off taking it back to the marina. The bolts may not come off without using some machinery, meaning you might have to take your boat out of the water. If your keel starts to rust, you may need to speak to a professional.

What are the different keel types?

Now you know what a keel is, what it does, why it is important, and how to care for one it is time to learn about the specific types of keels. Big trawlers and cargo ships have bar or plate keels, but sailboats do not. Here are the 6 different types of keels typically found on sailboats and their purposes:

The full keel is one of the most common types of the keel that you are likely to see on a sailboat. A full keel runs from end to end of the boat lengthways. A full keel, as the name implies, runs almost the entire length of the boat. At a minimum, it must run 50% of the length of the boat. A full keel is one of the most stable keel types, which is why it is so common. Full keels are also safer should you run aground. If a boat with a full keel should come ashore, it will cut its way through the sand and eventually land on its side. Whether you are grounding your boat intentionally or not, your boat will have far better odds of surviving the ordeal with a full keel.

A fin keel is similar to a full keel, just shorter. There may be one or two fin keels along the length of the boat hull. A fin keel is defined by being less than 50% the length of the boat. The fin keel works almost entirely the same way that a shark's fin does. When you wish to turn, the keel provides the resistive force that keeps you turning. This means that it essentially acts as your tires going into a turn. Whereas a full keel is essentially just a long fin, a fin keel has very different benefits. A full keel is more stable and safer overall. A fin keel is sleeker, smaller, and most importantly makes you faster. Most racing sailboats have fin keels.

A bulbed keel is very similar to a fin keel. In fact, it is possible to make a bulb keel by shaving off part of a fin keel and attaching a bulb. Once the keel has been made substantially shorter, the bulb is fitted. The bulb is shaped similarly to how a torpedo would be on a submarine. This keel works the same as a fin keel does, offering a slightly more stability without sacrificing speed. The biggest difference between a bulb and a fin keel (besides shape and length) is where they are used. Bulb keels are most commonly used in places with very shallow waters and lots of rock/shale/coral outcrops. Somewhere like the Caribbean would be the perfect place for a bulb keel. The rounded bulb bounces off the rocks and is less likely to break off. It just isn’t going to be as quick as if you used a fin keel.

The wing keel is another alternative to your standard fin keel. Just like the bulb keel, a wing keel is an extension to the standard fin keel with an extra fitting at the bottom. A wing keel is far more streamlined than a bulbed one, at the expense of being more susceptible to breaking. A wing keel looks very similar to the tail of an airplane. It works the same way, too. The water can pass by either side of the wings, allowing you to adjust your course easily. But, a wing keel does have one major problem. If you do run aground, digging out a wing keel can be very difficult. Whereas digging out a standard fin is as simple as scraping sand away from the sides of it, a wing keel must be dug out completely. The wings act like little shovels and wedge themselves into the sand. These are generally limited to higher performance racing classes.

Centerboard Keel

A centerboard keel works similarly to a fin keel but it can retract slightly. It works by having a dagger that folds out downwards. When you are sailing, the dagger protrudes outwards and offers you all the stability and balance of a fin keel. When you are in shallow water, the dagger can be retracted upwards, essentially shortening the keel temporarily. This should be done when you are sailing in shallow waters or removing the boat from the water entirely using a boat ramp. Some centerboards work on a loose hinge. When the boat is sailing along, the dagger is out and the fin works as normal. If you should bump into something though, like some shallow rocks, the hinge would push the daggerboard back inside. This stops the keel from breaking, instead, it just moves out the way. This only works if you are only just deep enough. If you are in very shallow water you would just break the centerboard off.

Canting Keel

A canting keel also works on a hinge. Instead of working end to end, it works port to starboard. When the boat turns a corner, the canting keel swings from side to side. This allows the boat to maximize its balance and speed. Eventually, this will become the norm in racing. But at the moment it is still quite experimental. The biggest downside is that the hinge works on hydraulics, and hydraulics can fail. If they should fail at sea there is very little you can do to repair them. Once they have perfected these canting keels, they will move first into the racing classes and high performance boats, then to all new cruising boats as boatbuilders improve the technology. .

Hopefully, you now have a good idea about what a sailboat keel is,how it works, why it is so important, and, of course, all the different types. Chances are, when you buy a sailboat , the keel it has is going to be at the bottom of your list of priorities. That being said, if you are planning on sailing somewhere in particular, it is a good idea to think about what keel type you are using. Replacing them doesn’t have to be expensive, but you can go a long way to saving yourself that money either way by being prepared for your home waters!

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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• Mastering the Depths: The Sailboat Keel Guide

The keel of a sailboat is more than just an architectural feature; it's the foundational element that ensures stability, performance, and the directional integrity of the vessel. Acting as the backbone of the boat, it runs longitudinally along the bottom, playing a crucial role in preventing the boat from being blown sideways by the wind. But the keel is not just about stability; it's intricately linked to how a sailboat interacts with the water and wind, affecting everything from speed to maneuverability. Diving deeper into the specifics, the variety in keel designs is vast, each tailored to suit different sailing needs and environments. From the slender and deep fin keel, known for its speed and agility, to the bulb keel with its characteristic bulb at the bottom for enhanced stability, the design choices are many. There's also the wing keel, designed for shallow waters, reducing the draft without losing stability, and the full keel, which is excellent for long-distance cruising due to its exceptional directional stability. Not to forget the twin keel, which allows a sailboat to stand upright on low tides and offers remarkable stability in heavy weather conditions.

The Balancing Act: Keel Types and Sailboat Performance

The keel's influence on a sailboat's performance cannot be overstated. It's a balancing act, quite literally, where the keel's design directly impacts the boat's stability, speed, and maneuverability. The choice between a deep keel and a shallow keel, for instance, is a decision that touches upon the very nature of one's sailing. Deep keels excel in open waters, offering unmatched upwind performance, while shallow keels are better suited for navigating coastal areas and shallower bodies of water.

But how does one choose the right keel? It's a combination of understanding the specific sailing environment, the performance expectations, and personal sailing style. Whether it’s for competitive racing or leisurely cruising, the keel must align with the sailor's aspirations and the challenges of the waters they intend to navigate.

Navigating Choices: Selecting the Right Keel and Ensuring Its Care

Selecting the right keel for your sailboat involves a detailed analysis of various factors, including the type of sailing you're interested in and the conditions you expect to face. Each keel type brings its own set of advantages and challenges. The maintenance and care for sailboat keels are equally important. Regular checks, cleaning, and upkeep are essential practices that extend the longevity and preserve the performance of the keel, preventing long-term issues that could hamper your sailing experience.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

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The voyage of evolution: from simple structures to sophisticated designs.

The history of sailboat keels is a fascinating journey of evolution, showcasing human ingenuity and the relentless pursuit of better, more efficient designs. This evolution is not just about improving performance but also about adapting to the changing environmental conditions and the growing demands of the sailing community. Innovations in sailboat keel designs continue to emerge, driven by a desire to enhance efficiency, reduce environmental impact, and push the boundaries of what's possible on the water.

Charting the Future: Innovations and Trends in Sailboat Keel Design

The future of sailboat keel design is as promising as it is exciting, with new advancements focusing on optimizing performance, eco-friendliness, and adaptability to diverse sailing conditions. These innovations are not just about pushing the limits of speed and agility but also about ensuring that sailing remains a sustainable and accessible sport for generations to come.

The keel is a testament to the intricate dance between form and function, a crucial component that defines a sailboat's relationship with the sea. Understanding the various types of keels, their functions, and how they impact sailboat performance is essential for every sailor. As we look to the horizon, the continuous innovation in keel design promises a future where sailing is not only about embracing the wind and waves but doing so with an eye towards efficiency, sustainability, and harmony with the marine environment.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. Contact me.

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6 Most Popular Types of Sailboat Keels

If you’re new to sailing, you might be wondering what that wing-like object is doing attached to the bottom of your sailboat. Well, that would be called the keel and it serves some important functions so that your sailboat can… sail!

So what are the different types of sailboat keels? The most common types of sailboat keels include full-length, fin, short, wing/bulb, bilge, and centerboard keels.

There’s a lot of useful knowledge when it comes to understanding keels since they take such a considerable role in making a sailboat a sailboat.

Knowing the different types of sailboat keels can really make a difference when heading out on the water for a nice sailing session.

Quick Keel Knowledge

Having a sailboat without a keel means you don’t have a sailboat.

As a matter of fact, when a sailboat is first constructed and tipped on its side to attach the keel, or laying the keel, this is considered the “birthday” of a sailboat and thus the initial time of construction.

One of the more interesting facts about keels is they find their origins all the way back in ancient China, which allowed them to expand their naval presence all around the world.

Of the different types of keels discovered were the use of adjustable centerboards and bilge keels.

Now, a keel is an important part of a sailboat because it provides two very important functions:

• Converts the sideways force of the wind into forward motion.
• Provides ballast (i.e., keeps your sailboat from tipping).

We’ll get into these important functions of a sailboat’s keel later on. For now, let’s dive into the different types of sailboat keels!

Different Types of Sailboat Keels

There are several common setups for sailboats when it comes to keels. Even though these types of keels differ from one another, they ultimately serve the same purposes.

However, it’s important to differentiate them based on use cases and other unique characteristics.

1. Full-Length Keel

A common type of sailboat keel is a full-length keel, which uses length rather than depth to provide a sailboat with a proper amount of life and ballast.

When it comes to the location of the rudder on a sailboat with a full-length keel, it’s often attached to the aft (rear) of the keel.

There are several advantages of having a full-length keel. One is that they’re well known for keeping a straight and steady course more easily due to the length and surface area, which makes for a relatively comfortable ride.

Also, if your keel runs aground (the keel touches the sea floor), there’s less likely to be a lot of damage due to a spread of the load.

However, there are some disadvantages to a sailboat that has a full-length keel. Due to the advantage of it staying straight and steady more easily, it’s also slower to turn (tack) when the rudder is moving.

This means you’ll have a longer delay between the turn of the rudder and the turn of the sailboat. Also, sailboats with a full-length keel are a bit slower than others due to the larger surface area dragging against the water.

2. Fin Keel

Another very common type of sailboat keel is a fin keel, which you’ll most likely find on more modern sailboats.

A fin keel has less surface area touching the water when compared to a full-length keel due to it taking on the shape of a… well a fin! This fin, however, sticks out of the bottom of the boat.

Just like the full-length keel, there are some advantages to having a fin keel on your sailboat.

The most obvious one when sailing on a boat with a fin keel is the speed since the fin keel has less surface area and a better airfoil shape just like a wing on an airplane.

A fin keel also provides for a faster response when tacking, which is great if you need to turn quickly.

There are also some issues with having a sailboat with a fin keel. One is that if you have high-powered winds hitting your sails, it’s likely you’ll feel the tilt of your sailboat relatively more than with a full-length keel. This is especially true for different types of sails .

Also, since the tacking is more responsive, you’ll need to spend extra attention on the track of the sailboat as you sail along. With a fin keel, you definitely need to be on high alert at times.

3. Wing/Bulb Keel

Wing/bulb keels are another type of sailboat keel that can be found.

As the name suggests, they take the shape of a wing at the very bottom of the keel and also can have a fat bulb centered at the middle-bottom of the wing. These types of sailboat keels are more often found are longer and heavier boats.

A boat that uses a wing or bulb keel has several advantages that other boats don’t have. For one, it provides a boat with greater efficiency due to a modified water flow that benefits the forward motion of larger boats.

It’s also relatively smaller in terms of surface area and quite hydrodynamic, so there’s reduced friction between the keel and the dragging water.

Similar to the fin keel, the wing or bulb keel has disadvantages related to having to spend greater attention when at the help due to a more responsive tack as well as being susceptible to heavy tilting during relatively strong incoming winds.

4. Shoal Keel

The shoal keel is a type of sailboat keel that’s virtually the same as a fin keel, only it’s a bit more shallow.

Due to it being less deep than a fin keel, it has the advantage of being better able at maneuvering around shallow areas. However, since it does have a smaller surface area it’s much more likely to tilt easier when the wind starts to pick up.

5. Bilge Keel

Bilge keels are a special type of sailboat keel due to them coming in pairs.

When a sailboat has a bilge keel, there will be two fins that stick out at the same angle from the bottom of the hull. Think of the fins of a shark and how they stick out at an angle from the bottom of the body.

There are some nice advantages of having a bilge keel on your sailboat. For one, they allow your sailboat to traverse through shallow water without going aground.

Also, if you let the boat dry out on land, it’s very convenient to simply let your sailboat sit on the fins of the bilge keel.

Some of the disadvantages of having a bilge keel on your sailboat include being difficult to free if ever aground since they might get stuck and not being as effective in reducing sideways slippage (leeway) underwater.

They also produce a lot of drag due to having a large wetted surface, which makes it difficult to sail at greater speeds.

6. Centerboard

Centerboards are another special type of sailboat keel because they can be lowered and raised mechanically. Being able to extend or retract a sailboat’s keel means your sailboat’s less likely to run aground, which makes it a fantastic option for coastal and offshore sailing.

One of the main advantages to having a centerboard is having the ability to retract it when entering shallow water, removing the chance of running aground.

Since you can effectively increase or decrease the surface area of your keel at will, you’ll be able to reduce draft and wetted surface resulting in finer control of the lateral resistance of your keel.

However, there are a few downsides to having a centerboard compared to virtually every other type of sailboat keel. One issue is that they’re rather difficult to maintain.

Another is that they have a ballast that is closer to the core of the boat resulting in the need to increase your sailboat’s ballast displacement. All of this ends up being a headache!

Keels Move a Sailboat Forward

How a keel is able to convert the force of sideways winds to forward motion is based in the science of hydrodynamics, similar to how airplane wings work based on aerodynamics . Essentially what happens is:

• The wind hits the sails at an angle
• The wind force causes the sailboat to tip
• The keel resists the lateral part of the wind force
• Energy from the angle portion of the wind force transfers to forward motion

This explanation is pretty basic, but should hopefully provide a clear insight into how a sailboat is able to produce forward motion thanks to the keel.

Sailing Ballast

One of the most important purposes of a keel is to provide ballast for a boat. Essentially, sailing ballast is the ability to resist the lateral forces of the wind based on the weight and size of the keel. As a matter of fact, this is a major reason why step 4 in the above list is able to produce forward motion.

Now, most keels are known to be made out of cast iron, steel, lead, and even concrete due to these materials being high in density. Back in the day during “olden times”, decent keels were made out of stone and sand.

When a keel has too little ballast, a sailboat tends to tip (heel) too much during high winds. However, if the keel has too much ballast, the sailboat is at risk of capsizing. That’s why a proper amount of ballast is required for light and heavy winds.

There are multiple ways of creating ballast on a sailboat. Apart from having a high-density keel, your sailboat could have a water ballast which allows you to adjust a certain amount of water sitting in your hull.

Another way is “live ballast”, which pretty much means the excess weight on the sailboat produced by us sailors.

Positioning dense weight below the hull to produce good ballast is important, which is why keels are the perfect place to put it.

In the end, proper ballast provides stability and speed for all types of sailboats and is an essential function of a keel.

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Sailboat Keel Types: A Comprehensive Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 25, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short Answer: Sailboat Keel Types

There are several types of sailboat keels, including full keel, fin keel, wing keel, bulb keel, and daggerboard. Each type provides different characteristics in terms of stability, maneuverability, and performance. Sailors choose the keel type based on their sailing preferences and intended usage of the boat.

Understanding Sailboat Keel Types: A Comprehensive Guide

As any avid sailor can testify, understanding the different sailboat keel types is paramount to a successful and pleasurable sailing experience. A sailboat’s keel acts as its foundation, providing stability, preventing sideways drift, and enhancing overall performance. With various keel options available in the market, it can be quite overwhelming for newcomers or even seasoned sailors to grasp the nuances of each type.

In this comprehensive guide, we aim to unravel the mystery surrounding sailboat keels. From traditional full keels to modern fin keels and everything in between, let’s embark on a journey through their characteristics, advantages, disadvantages, and their impact on sailing dynamics.

1. Full Keel:

Let’s start with the old-school favorite – the full keel. As its name suggests, this keel extends from bow to stern and offers exceptional stability due to its large surface area below the waterline. The long length also promotes tracking ability – keeping your boat moving in a straight line without much effort. Although typically found on older vessels or those designed for long-distance cruising rather than racing, full keels excel in handling heavy weather conditions and provide an overall smooth ride through choppy waters.

However, there is a trade-off when it comes to maneuverability. The deep draft can restrict access to shallower areas and make tacking (changing direction by turning into the wind) more demanding. Additionally, due to their shape and size, full keels may sacrifice some speed potential compared to their sleeker counterparts.

2. Fin Keel:

Enter modernity – the fin keel revolutionized sailing dynamics when it was introduced decades ago and remains one of today’s most popular choices among sailors seeking performance-oriented vessels. This relatively narrow (or “fin-like”) appendage protrudes deep below the hull and serves as both a counterbalance against sideways forces and a pivot point for agile maneuvers.

The fin keel’s streamlined design offers enhanced speed, better upwind capabilities, and improved responsiveness. Sailors planning to participate in racing events or seeking a thrill-seeking sailing experience often favor this type of keel. Moreover, the reduced draft allows for access to shallower waters – perfect for exploring coves or venturing closer to shore.

However, it’s essential to recognize that while fin keels excel in speed and maneuverability, stability can be compromised. A narrow base may result in more heel (tilting) when exposed to strong crosswinds, demanding careful attention from sailors. Furthermore, grounding risks are higher due to the shallower depth.

3. Winged Keel:

For those looking for a middle ground between full keels and fin keels, winged keels provide an intriguing compromise. Originating from the America’s Cup yacht races during the 1980s and 1990s, these unique designs feature additional horizontal wings near the bottom of the main keel shaft.

Their purpose? To improve stability by effectively increasing the lateral surface area without significantly increasing draft. This innovative approach enhances windward performance while maintaining maneuverability and reducing heeling.

4. Bulb Keel:

The bulb keel is another darling of modern sailboat design – especially prevalent among cruising boats aiming for optimal balance between cruising comfort and performance capabilities. These keels utilize a large torpedo-shaped bulb at their base, which concentrates weight lower down for increased stability while reducing overall drag.

Bulb keels offer excellent upwind performance, advanced tracking ability, and minimal lateral movement when navigating waves or choppy seas – all qualities keenly sought after by bluewater cruisers or liveaboard sailors longing for long voyages with maximum safety and comfort.

5. Swing Keel/Centreboard:

Now let’s discuss something adaptable – swing keels (also known as centerboards). This versatile option provides flexibility in both deep water sailing and shallow anchorage areas. Swing keels can be raised or lowered as needed, allowing sailors to decrease draft in shoal waters and subsequently improve maneuverability, while also providing deeper draw for enhanced upwind performance on open seas.

The ability to retract the keel provides opportunities for exploring hidden bays, rivers, or other areas inaccessible to boats with fixed keels. However, this convenience comes with a downside. The mechanism required for raising and lowering the keel may add weight to the boat and increase maintenance requirements.

To conclude, understanding sailboat keel types is crucial when choosing a vessel that aligns with your sailing goals and needs. Whether you prioritize stability, speed, maneuverability, or versatility depends on where and how you envision your nautical adventures unfolding. We hope this comprehensive guide has shed light on the various options available in their witty and clever explanations – setting you on a course towards well-informed decision making when it comes to sailboat keels.

Choosing the Right Sailboat Keel Type for Your Needs: Step-by-Step Process

Purchasing a sailboat is an exciting venture, but it can also be quite overwhelming when faced with the multitude of options available. One crucial decision to make is selecting the right keel type for your sailing needs. The keel plays a vital role in determining the stability, performance, and maneuverability of your sailboat. Hence, understanding the various keel types and their features will help you make an informed decision. In this blog post, we will take you through a step-by-step process to choose the ideal sailboat keel type tailored to your specific requirements.

Step 1: Assess Your Sailing Goals Before delving into technical details, it’s important to assess your sailing goals and preferences. Are you looking for a vessel suitable for racing or one geared towards leisurely family outings? Do you plan on venturing into shallow waters or embarking on long offshore trips? Determining your primary sailing objectives will provide essential insights that shape your keel choice.

Step 2: Understand Different Keel Types Next, let’s explore the common types of sailboat keels:

1. Fin Keel: Also called a modern fin keel with a bulb, this design offers excellent performance and stability even in strong winds. It reduces drag significantly due to its sleek profile while enabling better upwind pointing ability.

2. Full Keel: A traditional full keel provides exceptional directional stability but may compromise maneuverability. Ideal for offshore cruising, it offers reduced rolling motion and enhanced safety during heavy weather conditions.

3. Wing/Daggerboard Keel: This versatile configuration combines aspects of both fixed keels and centerboards/daggerboards by retracting partially or completely when needed. This allows maximum flexibility when navigating shallow waters or adjusting for varying wind conditions.

4. Bilge Keel: Employed mainly in smaller boats, bilge keels consist of two shorter keel sections placed on either side of the hull. This design enhances stability at rest and allows for grounding without damage.

Step 3: Assess Pros and Cons Now that you understand the different keel types, it’s time to evaluate their pros and cons based on your sailing objectives:

– Fin Keel: Pros: Excellent upwind performance, great stability, higher speed potential. Cons: Vulnerable in shallow waters, reduced directional stability when not under sail.

– Full Keel: Pros: Superior directional stability, excellent resistance to leeway (sideways movement), better roll dampening in heavy conditions. Cons: Lower maneuverability in tight spaces or strong winds, reduced speed potential.

– Wing/Daggerboard Keel: Pros: Versatile and adaptable to changing conditions, improved windward performance when centerboard is down. Cons: Higher maintenance requirements compared to fixed keels.

– Bilge Keel: Pros: Enhanced stability at rest, shallow draft capability for exploring shallower waterways. Cons: Reduced pointing ability and performance, may experience more leeway compared to other keels.

Step 4: Seek Expert Advice If you’re still unsure about which keel type aligns best with your needs after assessing the pros and cons, consider reaching out to a knowledgeable yacht broker or marine expert. Their expertise can assist you in making an informed decision based on factors such as boat size, intended usage area (inland lakes vs. open ocean), and personal preferences.

Step 5: Test Sailboats & Consider Trade-offs Once you have narrowed down your options based on previous steps’ evaluation criteria, take the opportunity to test-sail different boats embodying varying keel configurations. Experiencing firsthand how each sailboat handles will give you valuable insights into their capabilities and limitations. Consider trade-offs regarding aspects like speed versus maneuverability or comfort versus stability before making your final decision.

In conclusion, selecting the correct sailboat keel type requires careful consideration and an understanding of your sailing goals. By following this step-by-step process, you’ll be equipped with the knowledge needed to choose a sailboat that perfectly aligns with your needs. Remember, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer – it’s about finding the ideal balance between performance, stability, maneuverability, and suitability for your intended purpose.

Exploring Different Sailboat Keel Designs: A Closer Look at the Options

When it comes to sailing, the design of a sailboat’s keel plays a critical role in its performance and overall handling. A well-designed keel can greatly enhance a boat’s stability, maneuverability, and efficiency on the water. With various options available in the market, it’s important to understand the differences and benefits associated with each type of sailboat keel design.

One commonly found keel design is the full keel. As its name suggests, this type extends from the bow to the stern, providing extensive support and stability to the boat. Full keels are known for their ability to track straight in rough conditions and offer excellent resistance against sideways forces such as wind or waves. This makes them well-suited for long-distance cruising and offshore sailing adventures. Additionally, full keels often have a shallower draft which allows access to more shallow waters, making them versatile for exploring coastal areas.

On the other end of the spectrum is the fin keel design. Unlike full keels, fin keels are shorter and narrower, located primarily beneath the boat’s center of gravity. This leads to improved maneuverability and allows sailors to make tighter turns more easily. Fin keels also tend to have a deeper draft which provides better upwind performance by reducing side slippage while maintaining stability.

A variant of fin keels is bulbous or winged-keels. These designs feature weighted bulbs at their lower ends, enhancing stability while still allowing for efficient upwind sailing. The added weight at the bottom reduces heeling angles during strong winds while optimizing lift characteristics under sails.

For those seeking enhanced speed capabilities with reduced drag underwater, there are high-performance sailboats that incorporate daggerboard or centerboard designs. Daggerboards slide vertically through slots on either side of a boat’s hull when deployed during sailing operations but can be retracted when not needed. They offer tremendous flexibility due to adjustable positions based on wind conditions—providing sailors an opportunity to optimize lift and reduce drag accordingly. This keel design is often favored by competitive racers who prioritize speed and agility over stability.

Lastly, a popular modern innovation is the canting keel. This keel design consists of a fin that can swing out to either side of the boat via a mechanism controlled by hydraulics or other means. The ability to adjust the angle of the keel allows for advanced maneuvering and optimizing performance based on current conditions. Canting keels are commonly found in high-performance racing yachts where every degree counts in gaining a competitive edge.

When deciding on the most suitable sailboat keel design, it ultimately depends on your intended use, sailing goals, and personal preferences. Cruisers may lean towards full or bulbous keels for their stability and versatility, whereas racers seek the swift performance offered by fin or daggerboard designs.

Whichever sailboat keel design you choose, understanding its characteristics and how it aligns with your sailing objectives is vital. Consulting with experienced sailors or marine professionals can help you make an informed decision when selecting your dream sailboat—a vessel that will carry you gracefully through all your aquatic adventures.

Frequently Asked Questions about Sailboat Keel Types: Get Answers Here!

Welcome to our blog where we aim to satisfy your curiosity about sailboat keel types! Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just getting started in the world of sailing, understanding the different keel designs is crucial for optimizing your boat’s performance on the water. In this article, we’ve compiled some frequently asked questions to provide you with comprehensive answers and shed light on this important aspect of sailboats. So let’s dive in!

1. What is a sailboat keel? A sailboat keel refers to the underwater structure attached at the bottom of the hull that provides stability and prevents excessive sideways drift. It essentially acts as a counterbalance against wind forces acting on the sails, allowing the boat to maintain an upright position.

2. How does a sailboat keel work? The primary function of a keel is to create lift in the water as it moves through it. This lift opposes and balances the lateral forces generated by wind pressure on sails, keeping the boat from being pushed sideways or capsizing. Additionally, by increasing drag and resistance, it also helps prevent excessive speed or slipping sideways when sailing upwind.

3. What are different types of sailboat keels? There are various sailboat keel designs tailored for specific purposes:

– Fin Keel: The fin keel is one of the most common types characterized by its long, narrow shape extending vertically downwards into the water beneath the boat. It offers excellent upwind performance while minimizing drag, making it ideal for racing or competitive sailing.

– Wing Keel: A wing keel features two smaller fins (wings) positioned near its base instead of one central fin like traditional fin keels. This design aims to improve stability while reducing draft depth, enabling boats to navigate shallower waters without sacrificing performance.

– Bulb Keel: Bulb keels have an additional weighted bulb located at their lower end designed to enhance stability and reduce drag even further. These keels are often found on performance cruisers or racing yachts, offering enhanced righting moments and improved overall sailing performance.

– Full Keel: On the other end of the spectrum, full keels extend along the entire length of the boat’s bottom. They provide excellent stability but tend to sacrifice maneuverability and speed in favor of increased seaworthiness, making them well-suited for long-range cruising or bluewater sailing.

4. Which sailboat keel type is best for me? The ideal keel type depends on your specific sailing needs and preferences. If you’re primarily focused on racing or want a higher level of maneuverability, a fin keel with a bulb might be more suitable. However, if you prioritize stability and plan to embark on extended journeys or offshore passages, a full keel could be an excellent choice.

5. Can I modify my sailboat’s keel? Modifying a sailboat’s keel is generally not recommended as it can significantly alter the vessel’s balance and stability characteristics. Unless you have extensive knowledge and expertise in naval architecture, it’s best to consult with professionals before considering any modifications.

We hope this FAQ section has answered some burning questions about sailboat keels! Choosing the right type for your vessel will greatly impact your sailing experience, so take the time to research and understand each design’s advantages and limitations. Whether you’re aiming for speed, stability, or versatility – happy sailing!

Benefits and Drawbacks of Various Sailboat Keel Types: What to Consider

When it comes to choosing the perfect sailboat for your seafaring adventures, one important factor that often gets overlooked is the type of keel. A sailboat’s keel plays a crucial role in stability and maneuverability, making it essential to carefully consider the benefits and drawbacks of various keel types before making a decision. In this blog post, we will explore these different types and help you understand what factors should be considered.

1. Fin Keel: Fin keels are among the most common types found on modern sailboats. They feature a deep, narrow profile that extends vertically from the hull’s bottom. One significant benefit of fin keels is their excellent upwind performance due to their low drag and efficient water flow around them. This allows for better pointing ability and higher speeds when sailing close to the wind. However, fin keels also have some drawbacks worth considering. Due to their depth, they may limit access to shallower waters and make grounding more hazardous. Additionally, their narrow profile can result in reduced stability compared to other keel types in rough conditions or during sudden gusts of wind.

2. Wing Keel: Wing keels are designed similarly to fin keels but have two small wings extending horizontally from either side of the main fin. These wings increase the overall surface area of the keel, providing additional lift and improved stability compared to fin keels. One significant benefit of wing keels is their ability to handle shallow waters more effectively than other types without compromising performance significantly. The extra surface area also helps minimize leeway or sideways drift when sailing downwind. Despite these advantages, wing keels may present some trade-offs. The enlarged wings can induce additional drag, slightly reducing speed potential in certain conditions such as upwind sailing or going against a strong current.

3. Centerboard or Swing Keel: Centerboards or swing keels offer versatility by providing both draft adjustability and easy access to shallow waters. These keels are retractable, allowing them to be raised when navigating in shallow areas and lowered for enhanced stability in deeper waters. The main benefit of a centerboard keel is the ability to explore more secluded areas that may be inaccessible with fixed keels. They also offer better windward performance than wing or fin keels when fully deployed. However, the design limitations of centerboards can result in reduced overall lateral stability compared to fixed keels. Additionally, the mechanism used for raising and lowering the centerboard can be prone to maintenance issues or potential failure if not properly maintained.

4. Full Keel: Full keels, also known as long keels, are characterized by their extended length from bow to stern. This type provides optimal directional stability and contributes greatly to reducing leeway and weather helm even in challenging conditions. One of the primary benefits of full keels is their seaworthiness and ability to maintain course easily while cruising offshore. They tend to track well and inspire confidence in rough seas. Nevertheless, full keels have some drawbacks that should be considered. Due to their larger surface area, they generate more drag than other types of keels. This additional resistance can slightly reduce speed potential, especially in light winds or when sailing against strong currents.

In conclusion, choosing the right sailboat keel type is a critical decision that requires careful consideration based on your desired sailing conditions and preferences. Each type comes with its own set of benefits and drawbacks that need evaluation depending on factors such as intended use, cruising grounds, draft requirements, and personal skill level. By understanding these nuances and making an informed choice, you can ensure an enjoyable and safe sailing experience on whichever sailboat you ultimately decide upon.

Beginners’ Guide to Sailboat Keel Types: Everything You Need to Know

Welcome aboard to our Beginners’ Guide to Sailboat Keel Types: Everything You Need to Know! Whether you’re a novice sailor or an experienced mariner looking to brush up on your knowledge, understanding sailboat keel types is essential for enjoying a smooth sailing experience. So hoist the sails and let’s dive in!

Keels play a crucial role in stabilizing sailboats by counteracting the force of wind pushing against the sails. The right keel type ensures optimal stability, maneuverability, and overall performance under various conditions. Let’s explore some of the most common sailboat keel types you’ll encounter on your seafaring adventures:

1. Full Keel: Picture yourself cruising on a classic yacht from a bygone era – chances are it has a full keel. This traditional design encompasses a long, deep fin that extends from bow to stern, providing excellent directional stability. Full keels are ideal for longer voyages as their heavy displacement reduces rolling motion, making them resilient in rough seas.

2. Fin Keel: On the flip side of the spectrum lies the fin keel – sleek, modern, and agile. Fin keels feature a shorter but more slender profile compared to full keels, extending from just below the hull near the bow and terminating towards the stern. Their reduced surface area allows for increased speed through water while facilitating easy maneuvering and quick responsiveness.

3. Wing Keel: Imagine having wings underwater – that’s precisely what you’ll find with wing keels! These innovative designs incorporate additional extensions (wings) on either side of the main fin, increasing lateral resistance as well as stability. Wing keels offer superb shallow-water cruising capabilities, allowing sailors to explore coastal areas with ease.

4. Bulb Keel: Don’t be fooled by their name; bulb keels are anything but dull! Often seen on high-performance racing yachts or larger cruisers aiming for speed, this keel type features a lead bulb at the tip of a narrow fin. The added weight significantly lowers the boat’s center of gravity, enhancing stability and reducing heeling (sideways tilting) when harnessing strong winds.

5. Bilge Keel: If you’re looking for versatility, bilge keels are your go-to option! As the name suggests, these twin keels are positioned symmetrically on each side of the sailboat’s hull. Bilge keels provide great stability both underway and at rest while also enabling easy beaching or grounding in tidal areas. Their unique design allows for exploring shallow waters without compromising maneuverability.

As with any sailing endeavor, it’s important to remember that each sailboat keel type comes with its own set of trade-offs. Factors such as sailing conditions, intended use (racing vs. cruising), and personal preference will ultimately guide your choice.

So there you have it – a comprehensive overview of sailboat keel types to set your seafaring journey on the right course! Whether you opt for the classic elegance of a full keel or the nimble agility of a fin keel, understanding these different types empowers you to choose wisely based on your specific needs and aspirations as a sailor.

Now, all that’s left is to chart your course and let the wind fill your sails as you embark on countless exciting adventures across vast oceans or tranquil lakes. Happy sailing!

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Keel types and how they affect performance

• Peter Poland
• June 19, 2023

Peter Poland looks at the history of keel design and how the different types affect performance

The Twister is a well-proven example of a generation of production yachts with ‘cutaway’ full keels and keel-hung rudders. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Having been a boatbuilder for around 30 years until the very early ‘noughties’, I’ve already witnessed – and even taken part in – a lot of changes in the world of yacht design and building.

Yacht design originally evolved as traditional workboats developed into leisure craft.

In his History of Yachting , Douglas Phillips-Birt writes that the Dutch, who gave the name ‘yacht’ to the world, were probably the first to use commercial craft for pleasure in the 16th century.

They created the first yacht harbour in Amsterdam in the 17th century.

When the schooner America visited the UK in 1851 and raced around the Isle of Wight, this led to the America’s Cup and the resulting merry-go-round of race-yacht design that continues to this day.

The Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 35 offers three different fin keel configurations with different draughts plus a lifting keel version with a centreplate housed in a shallow winged keel stub. Credit: David Harding

The creation of what is now the Royal Yachting Association ( RYA ) in 1875 led to the introduction of handicap rules, establishing the sport in Britain.

These rating rules – and their numerous successors down the ages – have helped determine the evolution of yacht design and keel shapes.

Many early yachts were closely based on workboats, commercial cargo carriers or even privateers and naval vessels.

Initially, the ballast was carried in a long keel and the bilges .

New racing rules of the day taught designers to seek and tweak performance-enhancing features.

Maybe racing did not always improve the breed, but it certainly kept it moving ahead.

Artwork inspired by Ted Brewer’s illustration of keel types (excluding centreplate or lifting keels)

The late, great designer David Thomas believed that fishing boats, pilot cutters and oyster smacks had a large influence on the sport of sailing.

Each type of workboat was built to fulfil a specific purpose. And many had to be sailed short-handed while carrying heavy cargoes.

So they needed to combine form and function, sail well and be able to cope with heavy weather.

Proof of the versatility of working boat designs was provided by Peter Pye and his wife, Anne.

They bought a 30ft Polperro gaff-rigged fishing boat (built by Ferris of Looe in 1896) for £25 in the 1930s.

Having converted her to a sea-going cutter, and renamed her Moonraker of Fowey , they sailed the world for 20 years.

It proves how the simplest working boat design can cross oceans and fulfil dreams.

Racing influence on keel types and design

Most early yacht designs were schooners, but during the latter half of the 19th century the gaff cutter rig started to dominate the scene.

Many notable yachts were built at that time and the most important racing design was probably the yawl Jullanar (1875).

Designed and built by the agricultural engineer EH Bentall, she had, in his own words, “the longest waterline, the smallest frictional surface, and the shortest keel”.

She proved to be extremely fast and in her first season won every race she entered. Jullanar became the forerunner of such famous designs as GL Watson’s Thistle (1887), Britannia (1893), and Valkyrie II and Valkyrie III , both of which challenged for the America’s Cup during the 1890s.

Compare the She 36’s graceful overhangs with the vertical stems and sterns of most modern cruiser/racers

In the USA, Nat Herreshoff experimented with hull forms for racing yachts and produced the ground-breaking Gloriana in 1890.

She was a small boat for the times, with a waterline length of 46ft. Her hull form was very different to anything yet seen in the USA.

With long overhangs at bow and stern, her forefoot was so cut away that the entry at the bow produced a near-straight line from the stem to the keel.

It was a revolutionary design, and nothing at the time could touch her on the racecourse.

Many French models, such as this Beneteau, have opted for substantial pivoting keels. Credit: Peter Poland

Herreshoff wrote: “Above the waterline everything on Gloriana was pared down in size and weight… and every ounce of this saving in weight was put into the outside lead.”

Early English rating rules produced the ‘plank-on-edge’ yacht, where the beam became narrower and the draught got deeper.

New rating rules were then adopted to discourage this extreme type and eventually the Universal Rule was introduced in the USA and the International Rule – which produced the International Metre Classes – took over in Europe.

Yet again, racing rules proved to be a major influence on design development.

By the start of the 20th century the big, long-keeled racing yachts like the J Class attracted a lot of public attention, but after World War II everything changed. Yachts built to the Universal Rule fell from favour.

The age of the racing dinghy arrived and the ocean racer became the performance yacht of the future.

To new extremes

A 300-mile race from New York to Marblehead saw the start of offshore racing and the first Bermuda race was run in 1906.

The British were slower to compete offshore, but in 1925 seven yachts took up the challenge to race round the Fastnet Rock, starting from the Isle of Wight and finishing at Plymouth.

EG Martin’s French gaff-rigged pilot cutter Jolie Brise won the race and the Ocean Racing Club was formed.

In 1931 this became the Royal Ocean Racing Club (RORC), which remains the governing body of offshore racing in Britain.

The ‘cutaway’ modified full keel was famously used by Olin Stevens on his mighty Dorade. Credit: Christopher Ison/Alamy

The early competitors in RORC races were long-keeled cruising boats, many of them gaff rigged and designed for comfort and speed.

But everything changed in 1931 when the young American Olin Stephens designed and then sailed his family’s 52ft yawl Dorade across the Atlantic to compete in that year’s Fastnet race.

She won with ease. Then she did it again in 1933, having first won the Transatlantic ‘feeder’ race.

At 52ft LOA, with sharp ends and 10ft 3in beam, some said Dorade looked like an overgrown yawl rigged 6-metre. But her triple-spreader main mast was revolutionary. As were her cutaway forefoot, lightweight construction, deep ballast and 7ft 7in draught.

Dorade took the long keel format to new extremes.

In the USA, the Cruising Club of America (CCA), founded in 1922, played much the same role as the RORC did in Britain.

It introduced its own rating rule which influenced the evolution of yacht design in the USA.

The Elan 333. Both the deep (1.9m) and shallow (1.5m) draught models feature an elegantly faired bulb keel and spade rudder. Credit: Peter Poland

Beam was treated more leniently under the CCA rule, so wider American designs later offered more space for accommodation and a bit more inherent form stability than RORC-rule inspired yachts.

Many famous designers of long-keel racing yachts at this time developed their skills at the yachtbuilding firms they ran, such as William Fife II (1821–1902), his son William III (1857–1944), Charles E Nicholson (1868–1954) of Camper & Nicholsons and Nat Herreshoff of Bristol, Rhode Island.

Around the same time several British yacht designers made their names, including George L Watson (1851–1904) who set up one of the earliest Design Offices and Alfred Mylne (1872–1951), who designed several successful International Metre Class yachts.

Norwegian designers Colin Archer (1832–1921) and Johan Anker (1871–1940) also joined the party.

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In 1873 Archer designed the first long keel Norwegian yacht, but his real interest was work boats – pilot boats, fishing craft, and sailing lifeboats – some of which were later converted into cruising yachts.

Erling Tambs’s Teddy was a classic Colin Archer long keel canoe-stern design in which he wandered the globe with his young wife and family.

He proved the seaworthiness of Archer’s yachts, as well as their speed, by winning the 1932 Trans-Tasman yacht race.

Fellow Norwegian Johan Anker – a one-time pupil of Nat Herreshoff – became equally famous, thanks to his Dragon-class design that still races today.

As a new generation of designers arrived on the scene in the 1930s, hull tank testing became more sophisticated.

Long keel designs became as much a science as an art.

The leader of this new wave of designers, Olin J Stephens, had been a junior assistant to Starling Burgess who designed race-winning J Class yachts, including the iconic Ranger .

Tank testing was then in its infancy but the USA was ahead of the game and Stephens stored away everything that he learned. He enjoyed a head start over his contemporaries.

Keel types: Fin keels

Between the 1930s and the 1980s more fin keel designs began to arrive on the scene and his firm Sparkman & Stephens produced many of the world’s top ocean racers.

He also designed America’s Cup 12-Metres that defended the cup up to 1983 until Ben Lexcen’s winged keel shook the sailing world.

Many S&S fin keel and skeg production boats – such as the Swan 36 (1967), 37, 40, 43, 48, 53 and 65, She 31 (1969) and 36 and S&S 34 (1968) – still win yacht races and are much sought after as classics.

The S&S 34 has several circumnavigations to its name. Stephens, of course, had his rivals.

Among these was the Englishman Jack Laurent Giles, whose light displacement race-winner Myth of Malham had one of the shortest ‘long keels’ of all time.

(L-R) A Sigma 38 designed by David Thomas and Gulvain (1949) by Jack Giles as a development of his Fastnet-winning Myth of Malham have very different keel types. Credit: Peter Poland

The Dutchman EG Van de Stadt designed the Pioneer 9 (1959) which was one of the first GRP fin keel and spade rudder racers.

Towards the end of his career, Olin Stephens also came up against Dick Carter, Doug Peterson, German Frers and the Kiwis Ron Holland and Bruce Farr.

The development of new shaped keels went hand in hand with this rapid evolution in yacht design.

The full keel, as still found on motor-sailers such as the Fisher range, gave way to the ‘cutaway’ modified full keel as famously used by Olin Stephens on his mighty Dorade , designed back in the late 1920s.

She still wins ‘classic’ yacht races in the USA. American designer Ted Brewer wrote in ‘ GoodOldBoat ’ that Dorade’s offshore racing successes proved that the full keel is not essential for seaworthiness.

The Nicholson 32’s modified ‘cutaway’ long keel results in excellent performance and handling. Credit: Genevieve Leaper

As a result of its improved performance and handling, the modified ‘cutaway’ long keel caught on quickly and became the standard for around 35 years.

This keel type is found on numerous popular designs such as the Nicholson 32 , 26 and 36, Twister 28 and many Nordic Folkboat derivations.

The modified full keel format had a cutaway profile, giving good handling and directional stability while having less wetted surface than the full keel designs.

These yachts can perform well in all conditions and have a comfortable motion.

Even though they are generally of heavier displacement than fin keelers, they are not much slower in light airs , despite their added wetted surface area.

Their main drawback is a wide turning circle ahead and reluctance to steer astern when under motor.

Keel types: Increased stability

The modified full keel was subsequently cut away more and more for bluewater and inshore racers in an attempt to reduce wetted area until, finally, some designers took it to extremes.

As a result, much-reduced directional stability produced craft that were difficult to steer in breezy conditions, broaching regularly.

Whereupon the fin keel and skeg-hung rudder took over, reinstating increased directional stability, improving windward ability, reducing drag and restoring – when under power – control astern and on slow turns.

This fin and skeg format was later followed by the NACA sectioned fin keel with a separate spade rudder .

Soon, many performance cruisers followed this race-boat trend.

The Hanse 430 has a spade rudder and bulbed keel (draught 2.16m or 1.79m shoal draught. Credit: Peter Poland

Many builders now also offer shoal draught fin keel options and shallower twin rudders.

Some, such as Hanse, incorporate L- or even T-shaped bulbs on some Hanses and Dehlers at the base of finely shaped cast iron fins.

A new international competition had encouraged the initial development of modern fin keel yacht designs.

The revamped One Ton Cup was launched in 1965 for yachts on fixed handicap ratings (typically around 37ft long).

This spawned later fixed-rating championships for Quarter Tonners (around 24ft), Half Tonners (around 30 ft), Three-Quarter Tonners (around 33ft), and finally Mini-Tonners (around 21ft).

All these yachts were eventually handicapped under the International Offshore Rule (IOR) that replaced the old RORC and CCA rules.

The revamped One Ton Cup helped encourage the developed of modern fin keel designs. Credit: Getty

Countless production fin keel cruisers designed and built in the 1970’s to 1990’s boom years were loosely based on successful IOR racers that shone in the ‘Ton Cup’ classes.

The IOR handicap system’s major drawback was its Centre of Gravity Factor (CGF) that discouraged stiff yachts.

Once the international IRC rule replaced the IOR, more thought was given to increasing stability by putting extra weight in a bulb at the base of the keel.

GRP production boats followed suit. The keel foil’s chord needed to be wide enough to give good lateral resistance (to stop leeway), yet not be so wide as to add unnecessary drag.

Exaggeratedly thin foils are not suited to cruising yachts because they can be tricky upwind.

Tracking is not their forte and they can stall out. A bonus was an easier ride downwind thanks to wider sterns.

Keel Types: Lead or iron?

And then there is lead. Almost every production cruiser has a cast iron keel for one simple reason; it is much cheaper than lead. But it’s not as good.

Not only does it rust; it is ‘bigger’ for the same given weight. A cubic metre of iron weighs around 7,000kg, while the same cubic metre of lead weighs around 11,300kg.

An iron keel displaces far more water (so has more drag) than the same lead weight. We had always put iron keels under our Hunters – as did our competitors.

But when we came to build the Van de Stadt HB31 cruiser-racer, designer Cees van Tongeren said “No. We use lead.” “Why?” I asked. Cees replied: “If we use iron, the keel displaces more, so the boat sails worse.”

Rustler 36 long keel’s cutaway forefoot delivers responsiveness and manoeuvrability – a reason the design is so popular in the Golden Globe Race. Credit: Beniot Stichelbaut/GGR/PPL

Which explains why top-flight race boats have lead keels – or at the very least composite keels with a lead bulb or base bolted to an iron upper foil, thus lowering the centre of gravity (CG).

Some modern production cruiser-racers offer high-performance lead or lead/iron composite keels – but at a price.

Many Danish X-Yacht and Elan race-boat models, for example, have a lead bulb on the base of an iron NACA section fin.

Rob Humphreys, current designer of the popular Elan and Oyster ranges, said: “The T-keel is good if you have sufficient draught available. If not, the fin element has too short a span to do its job. This is because the T-bulb doesn’t contribute as usefully to side force as a ‘filleted L-bulb.’

“I developed and tested this shape (a blended-in projection off the back of the main fin) for the maxi race boat Rothmans in 1988/9, and have since used it on the Oysters and Elan Impressions. The ‘filleted’ keel we tested for Rothmans had slightly more drag dead downwind (more wetted area) but was significantly better when any side-force occurred; and side-force goes hand-in-hand with heel angle – which is most of the time! When the model spec allows for reasonable draught, the keel option with the lowest centre of gravity will invariably be a T-keel, with a longer bulb giving the greatest scope for a slender ballast package. An L-keel is a compromise and doesn’t suffer from the risk of snagging lines, mooring warps, and nets. [many modern production cruisers have 100% cast iron L- or T-shaped keels]. A lead bulb is preferable to a cast iron keel in terms of volume and density, but it costs more. However, a lead T-keel in a production environment will almost certainly use a cast iron or SG Iron fin, which may rust.”

The Mystery 35, designed by Stephen Jones and built by Cornish Crabbers, has a lead fin keel. Photo: Michael Austen/Alamy

Rustler Yachts also uses lead instead of iron for their keels.

The Rustler 36 long keel (designed by Holman and Pye and winner of the 2018 Golden Globe Race) has a cutaway forefoot to improve responsiveness and manoeuvrability.

The long keel creates more drag but, as with the Rustler 24, the cutaway forefoot makes the 36 more nimble than a full long keel boat, which are more difficult to manoeuvre in reverse under power.

The rest of Rustler’s offshore range – the Rustler 37, 42, 44 and 57 – designed by Stephen Jones – have lead fin keels.

As does his Mystery 35 built by Cornish Crabbers.

These offer an excellent combination of directional stability, performance and lateral stability. The yachts track well, are comfortable in choppy seas, and have good manoeuvrability, all without the flightiness of shorter chord fin keels found on many production family cruisers.

A digital future

Influential designer David Thomas said: “When I started designing, I integrated sharp leading edges to the keel; until someone told me a radius was better. Then we were all taught that an elliptical shape was better still. With the advent of computers, designers could better visualise the end-product; and clever ‘faring programs’ speeded this up.”

So where next? A combination of lighter and stronger materials, rapidly developing computer programs, a desire for maximum interior volume and low costs has led us to today’s production yacht.

Twin rudders improve the handling of broad-sterned yachts when heeled.

The IRC rating rule permits low CG keels, wider beam and near-vertical bows and sterns.

And designers now have an array of new computer tools at their disposal. But maybe there’s still that element of black magic?

As David Thomas so succinctly said: “You can design a yacht 95% right, but the last 5% can be down to luck.”

Keel types : the pros and cons

Full length keel

The Fisher 31 and many motor-sailers have long keels. Credit: Peter Poland

Pros: Directional stability. Heavy displacement leading to comfort at sea.

Cons: Poor windward performance. Large wetted surface leads to drag. When under power at low speeds, the turning circle is wide unless fitted with thrusters. The same applies to manoeuvring astern.

Cutaway modified long keel form with keel-hung rudder

Pros: Reduced wetted surface area leading to increased boat speed. Better windward performance and handling than full length keel. Rudder on the aft end of the keel improves self-steering ability on some designs.

Cons: Under engine, this keel form has a large turning circle ahead and poor control astern. Since the rudder is not ‘balanced’, the helm on some designs can feel quite heavy.

Fin keel with skeg-hung rudder

The skeg gives protection to the rudder. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: The further reduction in wetted surface area leads to more boat speed. Directional stability and close-windedness are also improved. If full depth, the skeg can protect the rudder against collision damage.

Cons: When combined with a narrow stern, this keel format can induce rolling when sailing dead downwind in heavy winds.

Fin keel with separate spade rudder

Fin keel with spade: Low wetted surface and aerofoil shapes enhance performance. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: The fin and spade rudder mix reduces wetted surface and gives a more sensitive helm – especially if the blade has ‘balance’ incorporated in its leading edge. Handling under power in astern is precise and the turning circle is small.

Cons: The rudder is fully exposed to collisions. There are no fittings connecting the rudder to a keel or skeg, so the rudder stock and bearings need to be very robust.

Shallow stub keel with internal centreplate.

Pros: When lowered, the plate gives good windward performance. The plate can act as an echo sounder in protected shallow water. There is normally no internal centreplate box to disrupt accommodation. With the plate raised, off-wind performance is good.

Cons: The plate lifting wire needs regular inspection and occasional replacement. Windward performance with the plate raised is poor.

Lifting or swing keel

Boats with lifting keels tend to surf earlier downwind. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Shallowest draught so more cruising options; can also be moored on cheaper moorings. Surfs early downwind. Small wetted surface so can be fast.

Cons: Reduced living space due to internal keel box. With a raised keel, poor directional control. Susceptible to hull damage if grounding on hard material.

Twin or bilge keel

Bilge- or twin-keelers can take the ground on the level. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Can take the ground in a level position. Modern twin-keel designs with around 15º splay, around 2º toe-in and bulbed bases perform well upwind. Good directional stability due to the fins. Modern twin keels with bulbed bases lower the centre of gravity.

Cons: Older designs do not point upwind well. Slapping sound under windward keel when at a steep angle of heel on older designs. Antifouling between the keels can be tricky. Can be more expensive than fin keels.

Wing keel: A low centre of gravity gives a good righting moment. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Low centre of gravity means good righting moment. Shallow draught. Sharper windward performance.

Cons: Larger surface area means it is more likely to pick up fishing gear, like lobster pots. Difficult to move once it is grounded. And difficult to scrub keel base when dried out alongside a wall.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How keel type affects performance

• Chris Beeson
• December 2, 2016

James Jermain looks at the main keel types, their typical performance and the pros and cons of each

A fin keel and spade rudder configuration gives high pointing but can be sensitive on the helm Credit: Graham Snook/YM

James Jermain has tested hundreds of yachts in his 30 years as Yachting Monthly’s chief boat tester

The performance and handling of a yacht depends on many things, but perhaps the most important single feature is the shape of the hull and the profile of the keel. Over the years hulls have become shallower and keels narrower, but for many types of sailing this progression is not necessarily progress. Of the various shapes that have evolved, each has its own advantages in different circumstances. Here is a run-down of how they may fit your sort of sailing.

FIN KEEL WITH SPADE RUDDER

A low wetted surface area and aerofoil shape means speed and agility

The most common modern option, usually combined with light but beamy hulls with high freeboard.

GENERAL AND TO WINDWARD

• Low wetted surface and good aerofoil shape means good speed, high pointing and quick tacking
• Light steering
• Best designs can slice through heavy seas in reasonable comfort
• High volume, light-weight designs can be lively and tiring in heavy weather
• Flat sections can cause slamming
• Less steady on the helm, requiring more work and concentration
• Strong tendency to round-up when hard pressed
• Generally require earlier reefing
• Can be unstable when hove to
• Quick to surf and may even plane
• Can broach easily and suddenly
• Can be directionally unstable and hard to control in heavy conditions

UNDER POWER

• Handling is precise and turns tight and quick
• Some handle almost as well astern as ahead
• Limited lateral area so susceptible to beam winds at low speeds
• An unattended helm can slam over suddenly

FIN KEEL WITH SKEG RUDDER

The skeg running aft protects the rudder and improves tracking under sail and power

Similar to above but with some key differences.

• Skeg provides better support for the rudder
• Tracking under sail or power is improved
• There is less chance of damage
• More wetted surface so potentially slower
• Objects can get stuck between rudder and skeg
• Limited balancing can make helm heavier

The mass of a long keel is often more seakindly and will carry way well.

The traditional option, usually found on pre-1970s designs.

• Good tracking
• Slow, soft, comfortable motion
• Drive powerfully through short seas but can be wet
• Carry way through tacks
• Resist rounding-up
• Heave-to well
• High wetted surface area and a poor aerofoil shape, so speed reduced, tacking slow, leeway increased and pointing ability reduced
• Long ends can cause hobby-horsing
• An unbalanced hull or rig can cause heavy helm
• Track well and very resistant to broaching
• Very stable in heavy conditions
• Reluctant to surf (a mixed blessing)
• Carry way well
• Track straight
• Heavy construction can reduce vibration and noise
• Large turning circle ahead
• Unpredictable and hard to control astern

LIFTING OR SWING KEEL

A lifting keel enables beaching, but beware of stones jamming the plate

The ultimate shallow-draught option.

• A fully retracting keel offers shallowest draught
• A well-designed lifting keel can be very efficient and fast
• Grounding on anything other than soft mud or sand can damage an unprotected hull
• Stub keels offer better protection but are less efficient and prevent level drying out, except in soft mud
• Stones and dried mud can jam the lifting plate
• Internal keel boxes reduce accommodation space
• Directional stability is poor
• Early surfing and planing
• Control can easily be lost in strong winds
• Good performance and handling with keel down
• Directional control increasingly poor as the keel is raised

TWIN OR BILGE KEEL

A bilge-keeler will dry out upright on a flat bottom

A popular shoal-draught option in Britain, less so abroad.

• Shallower draught
• Dry out upright on a flat bottom
• Good protection when grounding
• Good designs are better to windward than long keels, almost as good as fins
• Pointing and speed to windward is reduced, considerably so in older designs
• When well heeled, waves can slap under the windward keel
• Can topple over if one keel finds a hole or soft ground

Modified water flow over the wing keel foot can give the motion of a longer, heavier boat

Once popular, now largely replaced with various types of bulb.

• Reduced draught
• Low CoG means good righting moment
• Modified water flow over keel foot means greater efficiency and gives the motion of a longer, heavier boat
• More likely to pick up lobster pots, etc
• Risky drying out
• Weed and barnacle growth under wings difficult to remove

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What are the pros and cons of different keels?

We all sail for different reasons, in different cruising grounds and use our yachts differently, so it makes sense that there is no one-size-fits-all keel design. At Sirius, however, we like to make the perfect yacht for each individual owner. One of the ways we serve our customers is our choice of keels – at least six different options for each model. It’s one of the ways we stand out – or should that be stand up?

We offer three styles of keel: fin, twin and lifting swing keel. All of our keels excel in many ways, but every design does have drawbacks – this is not unique to Sirius, but the keel affects the way you use the boat, so it’s important to choose the right one for you.

These are the keels we currently offer:

Standard Fin (310 DS, 35 DS, 40 DS) Performance Fin (310 DS, 35 DS, 40 DS) Medium Fin (310 DS, 35 DS, 40 DS) Shallow Fin (310 DS) Shallow Twin (310 DS, 35 DS, 40 DS) Performance Twin (35 DS, 40 DS) Lifting Swing Keel (310 DS, 35 DS, 40 DS)

Does the choice of keel compromise ocean capability?

For Sirius yachts, absolutely not. It’s important to realise that choosing one keel style over the other does not affect the yacht’s righting moment or compromise its ocean-going capabilities at all!

Whichever keel you choose, deep or shallow, twin or fin, they all have the same stability. This is achieved by putting more weight in the bulbs of the shallower keels as the shorter lever can be balanced with higher weight. Most of the blue water cruising and circumnavigations in Sirius Yachts have been made with twin-keel or reduced/shallow fin keel yachts.

Does keel choice affect performance?

As our shallow keels are heavier the weight dampens the yachts’ motion at sea, but as a downside, you have more weight to move with sails or engine. Once you’re moving there isn’t a difference but when tacking or gybing, or when not steered well, you will lose a bit in sailing performance. The shallower draught yachts also lose a few degrees to windward compared to their deeper keeled sisters, but they are still good all-round performers. Our customers with racing backgrounds always try to go for a keel as deep and light as their sailing area permits, either with a single or twin keel.

Pros and cons of fin keels

The standard keel on our yachts is a fin keel. Most sailing boats today use a fin keel because it gives a good all-round performance on all points of sail. By keeping the ballast lower it gives the most comfortable motion. The main downsides are that the draught (the depth of water required to stay afloat) is the greatest, and it’s very important to avoid running aground on a falling tide. Fin keel boats cannot dry out without additional support, either from a harbour wall or by fitting a pair of beaching legs. Some fin keel yachts are not built strongly enough to stand on their keels when out of the water, so they can’t dry out alongside a harbour wall and they need to be kept in a special cradle when stored ashore to avoid the risk of the hull deforming under its own weight. By contrast, all Sirius yachts can stand on their keels for any length of time with no problem at all.

We offer four types of fin keel. The standard fin is available on the 310 DS, 35 DS and 40 DS and is fully cast-iron. It offers the best value, good performance, and excellent responsiveness. It is the deepest of our fixed-keel options, so if you want less draught you may want to look at our other fin keels.

We also offer a performance fin keel for all our models. This uses a cast iron fin with a lead bulb at the tip (bottom). The structural strength of cast iron means the fin is the slimmest profile, but lead is denser than iron so the same volume of lead will weigh around 1.4 times more than cast iron, giving more righting moment. The heavier, softer lead down low has less volume in the bulb so achieves a slimmer profile with less drag and therefore better performance.

A lead bulb is also safer if it hits something. Lead can absorb 60% of the energy in flexing and deformation so that only 40% of the force will be transferred to the laminated structure of the keel reinforcement. A lead bulb is very forgiving and easy to reshape and will not start to rust where the coating is damaged. We can use less volume of lead than iron, and achieve better stability than a wholly cast-iron keel. We can also reduce the depth of the keel and retain excellent stability. However, lead is more expensive than cast iron and the bulb must be attached very securely to the iron fin, so this option does cost more.

If you want less draught, we also offer a medium fin. This reduces the draught of the 310 DS and 35 DS by around 40cm/1ft 4in and 55cm/1ft 9in on the 40 DS. Like the performance fin, it uses a cast iron fin with a lead bulb. To retain the keel’s grip in the water it has to have a longer chord (the distance from fore to aft). While this gives the boat better directional stability, it does make her a little less responsive and a little slower to manoeuvre.

On our 310 DS, we offer a shallow fin option – a special version for very shallow cruising grounds. This fin keel offers the least draught of any of our fixed keel options at 1.15m/3ft 9in and draws 10cm/4in less than the twin keel version. The keel has a significantly longer chord (2.24m/7ft 4in compared to 0.7m/2ft 3in of the standard keel) so she has the reassuring directional stability of a long-keeled yacht but with better manoeuvrability.

Pros and cons of twin keels

Our twin keels are the most popular option. About 70-80% of all Sirius Yachts are delivered with them – and on the 40 DS it’s 90%. Some folk still believe there is a big performance penalty with twin keels. In the past this used to be true but it’s no longer the case with modern twin keel designs, from Sirius at least. We have conducted many two-boat comparison tests, often battling for hours, by ourselves, with owners, and for sailing magazines and we have found that there may only be one or two boat lengths of difference at the end of a long windward leg, if at all. At the end of many of these comparison tests, the crews could not point out which of the boats had the twin keel.

If you cruise tidal areas, twin keels will reward you time and time again. Not only do they give you a shallower draught than the typical fin keel, they also give you the ability to dry the yacht out, whether that’s for a motion-free night’s sleep, to explore cruising grounds others cannot reach, or just for cheaper mooring and maintenance costs.

We offer two styles of twin keels; performance and shallow draught. Both options have a cast iron fin with a lead bulb. The performance keels have a deeper draught and a thinner chord so they act and feel a bit livelier when sailing and manoeuvring. The shorter keels have a longer chord, but give you the ability to navigate shallower areas. Like all keel designs, twin keels do have some downsides. They are more expensive than fin keels, and when you’re sailing fast in choppy seas at a steep angle of heel, you can occasionally get a slapping sound when an air pocket is caught and pressed out under the windward fin. Lastly, we’ve yet to meet an owner who enjoys antifouling between the keels. Thankfully it only has to be done once a year and with twin keels you might get away with doing it less frequently. A twin keel yacht can be kept on a drying mooring, where fouling is reduced because the hull spends more time out of the water. And when you’re off cruising it’s easy to give the bottom a quick scrub while the yacht is dried out.

Our yachts will happily sit on their keels on a hard surface, like a drying grid, or for winter storage but on softer surfaces we use the rudder for additional support. The rudders on our twin keel yachts are specially reinforced for this: we use a Delrin sheave to take the weight of the hull and the tip of the rudder has a wide, foil-like foot to spread the weight.

A lifting swing keel

We are one of a few manufacturers to offer a lifting swing keel. There’s a lot of confusion with the term ‘lifting keel’, it seems to encompass all yachts that have centreboards, variable draught, lift-keels or swing keels. To us, a lifting keel boat should have all the ballasted weight of the boat in the keel, and that keel needs to be retracted into the hull.

Technically, a lifting keel is a keel that can be lifted or lowered and gives the boat the ability to dry out when the tide goes out. A lift-keel is a ballasted keel that raises and lowers vertically. A swing keel has a ballasted fin that has a single pivot point and the keel swings up into the boat. There are other variants of design, for example some have a lifting keel to reduce the draught of the vessel but they cannot dry out on it, others have a ballasted keel and ballasted grounding plate. All these examples have a keel that does two things: keep the boat upright and stop her sliding sideways. Our swing keel is designed with a NACA profile to give the most efficient performance.

Centreboard yachts have a centreplate to provide grip in the water and reduce leeway. The plate may carry only 15-20% of the ballast but the rest of the yacht’s ballast is within the hull and/or in the grounding plate. This is called an “integral keel” and is more common as it’s less complicated to build. The lower a yacht’s ballast is located, the better her stability, the more comfortable her motion and the better she stands up to her sail area. The most efficient place for the ballast is as low down on the deepest keel possible – this is why race boats have deep skinny keels with large torpedo-shaped bulbs on the bottom, but they don’t make practical cruising sailboats.

Our keel designs have more weight in the tip (bottom) – using a bulb on the fin and twin keel design and flaring the lower sections on our lifting swing keel yachts. You don’t have this with centreboard and integral keel yachts.

It might be surprising, but a lot of owners come to us thinking that a lifting swing keel is the best option for them. Sometimes it is, but about 98% of customers who approach us because we offer swing keels end up sailing away on a twin-keel Sirius.

The downsides of a lifting keel

A lifting swing keel does give you more cruising options. It will lift should you run into something and, of course, it gives you the shallowest draught. But that difference is only 40-50cm (1ft 4in to 1ft 8in) less draught than our shallow twin keel option. The lifting keel increases the complexity of the build and the final cost of the yacht; it also sometimes limits the internal layout and engine drive options, and you need to have twin rudders too. Twin rudders make the boat less manoeuvrable in a marina – you can opt for a third central rudder which does improve the handling, but again comes at an extra cost.

On the lifting swing keel, 40 and 310 owners are restricted to the use of a shaft drive, which is less efficient and you have to accept a bit more noise and vibration. When drying out, the drive is more vulnerable to damage, whereas it’s totally clear when taking the ground on twin keels. With twin keels, you also do not have to worry about something sticking out of the beach or stones lying around because the hull is high above the ground. With the hull up high, you do not have to dig a hole in the sand and slide down on your stomach to check or change your anodes as you would on a swing keel.

Sailors who are attracted to the idea of a lifting swing keel should carefully consider the pros and cons to compromise the least. When owners understand the repercussions of choosing a lifting keel yacht, many of them feel it restricts their options too much. They could have a lifting keel or they can sail with twin keels, dry out, have better close-quarters handling and save money in the process. Unless you need the shallowest possible draught – 0.75m (2ft 5in) on the 310 DS, 0.9m (2ft 11in) on the 35 DS or 0.95m (3ft 1in) on the 40 DS – a twin keel might well be a better option.

How are the keels attached?

The design of the keel is important but the way they are attached is just as important, if not more so. All of our fixed keels are through-bolted. Every keel has a wide flange at the root (top) of the keel and the flange sits into a reinforced recess in the hull. The flange and the recess work together to spread the loads of the keel/s into the yacht’s hull. The keels are bonded and bolted to the hull. We use up to twelve 20mm and 24mm bolts (per keel) and these go through rolled stainless steel backing plates inside the hull to spread the bolt loads evenly into the fully laminated keel grid which goes all the way up to the chainplates and also carries the mast support.

For our lifting swing keel, we laminate a substantial keel box as part of the hull to accept the keel and the hydraulic mechanism needed to retract the keel into the hull. Unlike most other boatbuilders we don’t use a grounding plate to take the weight of the yacht, our yachts sit on the length of the leading edge of the keel. Integral keels with the majority of the ballast in the grounding plates move the ballast (weight) from low down in the keel to inside the hull. This negatively affects the stability as the more weight you have lower down, the better.

We also don’t like grounding plates because they bring the hull in contact with the ground. By leaving 10-15 cm (4-6in) of the keel out of the hull when it’s retracted, most of the time the hull is kept clear of the beach and anything that could damage it.

The problem with too much form stability

With only 15-12% of their ballast in the centreboard, most lifting-keel yachts cannot rely on keel weight for stability so their hulls need to be designed with extra form stability instead. This means the hull sections have to be much wider and flatter. A flat-bottomed hull is not what you want for a comfortable ocean cruising yacht; it isn’t sea-kindly or easy to steer in waves and gusty winds conditions. We don’t make that compromise at Sirius. With all the ballast in the swinging part of our swing keel design, we can use the same seaworthy, ocean-capable hull shape designed for our yachts with fixed keels.

If you don’t know which keel would be best for your Sirius, contact us to discuss the type of sailing you intend to do, where you want to sail and what your cruising aspirations are.

General Manager – Torsten Schmidt SIRIUS-WERFT GmbH Ascheberger Straße 68 24306 Plön/Holstein

Fax: 0049 – 4522 – 744 61-29

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10 Types of Sailboat Keels

Explore the top 10 sailboat keel types for improved sailing, stability, & safety. Ideal for ocean voyages & shallow waters. Perfect for travelers & sailors.

Every component of a sailboat affects the cost, handling, and safety of the vessel. Perhaps none of these components are as overlooked as keels. So, how many types of sailboat keels are there and how do they differ?

The most common types of sailboat keels are bilge, bulb, and fin keels which are beloved for their speed. Full keels offer the most stability and make them best-suited for ocean sailing compared to shoal and daggerboard keels. Lifting, twin, and bilge keels are all popular as well and are known for providing a smooth ride.

Factors such as the size of your sailboat and where you intend to take it to help determine which type of keels you should consider. Some types of sailboat keels, such as full keels are great for ocean sailing whereas shoal keels are ideal for shallow waters. Follow along as we explore the 10 types of sailboat keels and see what the best practical use is for each one.

Sailboat Keel Types

Each of the types of sailboat keel is different in style, application, and ideal use. For example, fin keels are great for racing sailboats whereas shoal keels are better for cruising.  You also need to consider how far you plan to go from shore and which type of water you are sailing through .

For example, some keels can easily cut through choppy water without suffering stability. On the other hand, some sailboat keels are only suited for smooth and shallow waters. Let’s take a look at the 10 types of sailboat keels.

Canting keels are among the most practical and impressive types of sailboat keels. They come in a wide variety of sizes that are proportionate to the size of the boat in question.  Canting keels are attached to a strut underneath the boat and they are designed to extend as low as possible .

This dynamic keel isn’t fixed, so you can adjust it based on the wind and the direction of your boat. Many boaters look for this in a sailboat because it lets you react accordingly under different weather and water conditions. Ideally, you should be able to adjust a canting keel while onboard so that you can go as fast as possible.

Bilge keels refer to multiple fins that extend from the bottom of a sailboat. Neither of the 2 fins sticks out too far, so you won’t have to worry about damage when you come close to shore or sail through shallow water.  They aren’t the fasted type of keel, but they are quite easy to maintain because of their relatively small size and simple design .

Arguably the biggest benefit of bilge keels is that they offer superior roll stability. This provides a smoother ride which is essential if you sail through rough waters or easily get seasick. You will most commonly find sailboats with bilge keys in areas with shallow water around a coastline.

A bilge keel should last for years to come as long as you properly maintain it. Dry your bilge out every few months and clean it so that it continues to work well and doesn’t suffer algae damage.

Boat Design Net

Consider a sailboat with a bulb keel if you value stability and safety . Also known as wing keels, bulb keels are perfect for large sailboats and can help keep them on track. That can be difficult to do with a massive sailboat, especially in inclement weather conditions or in rough water.

A bulb keel can use its weight to balance a large or long sailboat when it shifts from one side to another. As the name suggests, bulb keels are shaped like a standard bulb, and they look almost like teardrops. They are low-maintenance as long as you can dry and clean your bulb keel’s surface every few months if you use it often.

4. Daggerboard

Practical Sailor

Daggerboards are a unique variety of keels that are removable and easy to maintain. They are easy to use for beginners and seasoned sailors alike.  However, you should only use a daggerboard keel with a small boat because it may not be strong enough to sway one that is long and heavy .

A sailboat with a daggerboard can sail up to 2 knots faster than other sailboats under the right conditions. Daggerboards make it easy to steady and balance your sailboat because you can easily adjust the boards themselves. With that said, the presence of a daggerboard can add a lot of money to the cost of a sailboat.

They can add up to $15,000 or more to the cost of a boat, especially if you get one with a dual daggerboard which offers more control. Daggerboards are also cumbersome and can reduce some of the storage space on your boat depending on which type of hull you have.

Sailboat Cruising

Your sailboat likely has a fin keel if it was made in the last 10-15 years.  Fin keels are commonly praised for being precise and fast which is useful in fresh water and saltwater . A fin sticks out of the bottom of the sailboat in the perfect shape that doesn’t reduce your sailboat’s hydrodynamic nature.

You get more speed with a fin keel than most of the alternatives because they aren’t cumbersome. Their shape is meant to easily cut through the water without any trouble. Fin keels can also easily steady a sailboat as it sways even if the waters are rough or the weather is bad.

They also appeal to beginners because fin keels make it all too easy to steer sailboats of any size . Storage isn’t a problem for sailboats with fin keels because they don’t take up too much internal space that could be used for cargo. You can find fin keels on everything from casual cruisers to professional-grade racing sailboats.

6. Full-Length

Rigging Doctor

Full-length keels are a popular alternative to fin keels, even if they are somewhat slower and less modern. With that said, sailboats with full keels make up for the lack of speed and precision with stability.  The stability that a sailboat with a full keel has to offer is unparalleled in the world of marine technology .

That is large because the keel starts at the front and continues all the way through the aft. Unlike some other varieties, full keels are a part of the hull itself. This makes them large and heavy which can limit the speed but also makes it much easier to control your sailboat.

Life of Sailing

Shoal keel sailboats are unique in that they have a limited draft which makes them perfect for drifting . However, you aren’t limited to any particular style or activity with a shoal keel unless you take your boat out far into rough waters. They aren’t as stable as full keel sailboats which put you at a higher risk of capsizing if an emergency occurs.

You wouldn’t necessarily want to take a shoal keel sailboat out for a long-distance trip. They are best suited for fun excursions that don’t take you too far from shore or into choppy waters. Even still, sailboats with shoal keels can easily handle a trip close to shore or even within shallow lagoons.

Sirius-Yachts

Twin keels are a type of bilge keel that has 2 keels and they have recently become popular again. Their rise in popularity is mainly because of their handling and how smooth they are.  You can easily make a wide turn with a sailboat equipped with a twin keel and maintain a similar speed .

Another major benefit of sailboats with twin keels is that they can stand when you bring them to shore. This makes it easy to connect your sailboat to a trailer, perform routine maintenance, and transport it. Great performance aside, this is a major selling point of twin keels because it can otherwise be difficult to maintain and transport a sailboat.

Yacht Harbor

Sailboats with quad keels particularly come in handy if you need to make several tight turns on a single trip. Quad keels are designed so that you won’t have to fight to steady your sailboat once you’ve made a turn.  Of course, you will need to adjust based on the situation, but the additional keels make it all too easy to navigate tight passages .

10. Lifting

Owen Clarke Design

Lifting keels, or swing keels, are retractable, stable, and easy to use. You can even beach a boat with a lifting keel without worrying about causing damage.  They are retractable and your boat can operate well whether your lifting keel is up or down .

You get more variety with a lifting keel than you would get with one that is in a fixed position and unable to move. Speed isn’t necessarily the main appeal of boats with lifting keels, but they are lightweight nonetheless. All that you need to do is raise or lower the keel via a lever attached to ropes or a pulley.

With that said, you need to keep an eye on several key components of your lifting keel so that it stays in good shape. Lifting keels require a system that includes a winch, turning ball, and cable which are all necessary to function. Otherwise, there aren’t any downsides to a lifting keel as long as you keep up with the maintenance.

Best Keel For Ocean Sailing

Full-length keels are the best option for ocean sailing because they are reliable. They don’t offer as much speed as a fin keel, but they are much more reliable.  Full keels are the most comfortable option for ocean sailing because of their smooth and easy-to-control nature .

You can support from a full keel throughout the majority of your sailboat’s hull. This is invaluable while ocean sailing because there will always be an element of waves and choppiness. It also doesn’t hurt that you won’t have to worry about your sailboat changing course while ocean sailing.

With that said, some boaters prefer fin keels for ocean sailing because of their speed and maneuverability. The right choice for you comes down to whether or not you want to cruise casually or enjoy a speedy journey at sea. Personally, the stability of a full keel is more appealing than the extra speed of fin keels because you need a stable vessel on the ocean.

Best Sailboat Keel For Fishing

Bilge keels and shoal keels are the best sailboat keels for fishing. They can both handle shallow waters quite well and can easily navigate tight passages.  That is often necessary when fishing, especially if you visit small coves and lagoons and need as much control as possible .

Sailboats aren’t always thought of as the best types of boats for fishing, but choosing the right keel can make a huge difference. Bilge and shoal keels both have shallow drafts which give you more control in areas where you’d be likely to stop and catch some fish. A bilge keel or shoal can make the difference between a sailboat that is suitable for fishing and one that is meant for racing and cruising.

Sailboat Keel Material

Sailboat keels are made of several types of materials, but the most common are lead and cast iron . Each of these materials is durable enough to withstand prolonged exposure to water which is unavoidable with sailboat keels. Typically, sailboat keels are made of a combination of several materials in small concentrations.

For example, many sailboat keels feature a combination of cast iron, lead, and concrete infused with iron. The mixture gives the keel stability and protects the metals from quickly corroding from water. Many boaters and enthusiasts are reasonably apprehensive about the presence of lead, but lead isn’t in every keel.

The presence of lead typically only applies to sailboat keels that have a ballast, but not all keels with ballasts even have lead .  With that said, you will find lead in many of the most popular types of sailboat keels, such as fin keels. You can typically count on the presence of cast iron, however, because it is superior to other types of iron in terms of durability.

What is an Encapsulated Keel?

Grabau International

An encapsulated keel is a keel that is part of the hull itself. You can encapsulate several different types of keels, especially if you customize a sailboat or yacht.  This will come at an extra cost, but many sailors find the money worthwhile given the added stability .

Encapsulated keels have become more common and are now often available as stock parts of new boats. The keel is molded to the hull instead of attached with hardware such as rivets. This is essential to the stability of an encapsulated keel because you won’t have to worry about hardware suffering water damage.

Can You Sail Without a Keel?

You can sail without a keel if you have a dinghy, and that is an affordable alternative to a standard sailboat.  They are tiny sailboats that don’t have a ballast or keel and measure under 20 feet long . Dinghies are safe to sail with, but you shouldn’t go out more than 1-2 miles from shore.

Otherwise, you risk losing your course because of the lack of a keel that can help keep your vessel on the right path. The further you take a boat out, the easier it is to stray from your path even with modern navigation technology.

You should never attempt to sail a boat that is over 20 feet long without a keel whether it is damaged or you removed it. This will take away much of the control that you need to safely sail whether your distance is short or long.  Your sailboat needs a keel whether it’s a monohull or multi-hull vessel if it’s over 20 feet long .

So, What Are The Types of Sailboat Keels?

The best types of sailboat keels are fin keels, full keels, and bilge keels . They all offer a great mixture of precision and maneuverability, but full keels in particular offer the most stability of them all. Bulb keels are another great option if you want a sailboat keel that is stable and safe.

However, you need to especially keep an eye on bulb keels because they can easily carry scum and algae. Lifting sailboat keels are great because they are retractable so you don’t need to worry about your approach to shore. Full keels are the most well-rounded and best suited for ocean sailing, but fin keels are the fastest and most precise.

Kit Evans is a seasoned marine journalist and naval architect, bringing over 20 years of multifaceted experience in the boating industry to his writing and consultancy work. With expertise ranging from boat design and marine surveying to charter operations and vessel restoration, Kit offers unparalleled insights into all aspects of maritime life. When he's not penning articles for top boating publications or hosting his popular YouTube channel, Kit can be found sailing his lovingly restored 1960s Columbia 29 on the Chesapeake Bay, embodying his commitment to both preserving nautical heritage and embracing modern innovations in boating.

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Sailboat Keel Types: Pros And Cons 2024

Sailboats are highly versatile vessels that offer a unique form of entertainment and leisure, yet before you can truly unlock their potential, it is important to gain an understanding of all the different keel types available—each providing its own advantages.

Whether you’re new to sailing or an experienced sailor looking to ride a different wave, this post will provide you with insight into all the various sailboat keel types and highlight the advantages they present.

In this blog post, we’ll explore the advantages of different keels, as well as discuss the best route for outfitters trying to decide which is right for them.

From fin stabilizers to centerboards, let’s dive right in and explore which one best suits your boating needs!

Table of Contents

Centerboard keel, what is a sailboat keel, what is the purpose of a keel on a boat, sailboat keel materials, can you sail without a keel, how to look after your keel, what to do if your keel breaks at sea, sailboat keel types and their advantages.

From improving maneuverability in tight spaces to increasing stability when combating choppy seas, understanding how each type works can give you the edge you need to brave any challenging conditions that come your way.

Here are the most common types of sailboat keels and their advantages and disadvantages.

A full keel is one that runs pretty much the whole length of the sailboat.

This is one of the most stable types of keel, and is popular with offshore cruisers looking for a solid, rugged sailboat.

A full keeled sailboat will usually fare better in heavy weather. They tend to track better in big waves and there is less risk of you losing the keel compared to other keel types.

Another advantage of full keeled sailboats is that they are safer to run aground (if you find yourself in that unfortunate situation), and the rudder is pretty well protected.

The disadvantages of full keels are that they don’t maneuver well in reverse. This can be a big problem when coming into moorings astern, especially in the Med where stern to mooring is popular. They also tend to need more power to tack effectively.

Full keels are usually also deep keels (though you can get full keeled sailboats with shallow keels too). It’s really important to consider the draft of a boat before buying, because you’ll want to be sure you can cruise it in your desired waterways.

How to tie a sailboat to a mooring ball

Fin keels are probably the most popular type of keel on modern boats, and you’ll see many of them around a boat yard.

Fin keels look how they sound, like a fin underneath the boat. They tend to hang quite low to make up for a smaller amount of ballast, so boats with a fin keel usually have a deeper draft.

There are many advantages to fin keels, explaining why they are so popular today. They tend to outperform full keeled points on most points of sail, especially close to the wind where they can point closer and sail faster.

They handle more easily under power and can go astern, making mooring easier. They are also more agile when tacking.

The main disadvantages to a fin keel are that they tend to be less stable. They will power up quickly and heel quickly, so reefing at the right time is paramount.

Another concern from many sailors is the fact that fin keeled boats are bolted on. If those bolts aren’t regularly inspected and maintained then they can fail, resulting in your sailboat losing its keel with catastrophic results.

Because they tend to have a deeper draft there is more possibility of them grounding, and more possibility of a grounding having serious consequences.

Although these safety concerns are sometimes overdramatised by the sailing community (plenty of people cross serious oceans in fin keeled boats every year), they are something to bear in mind.

A bulb keel is very similar to a fin keel, only it has additional ballast at the end, usually in the shape of a bulb or teardrop which is where it gets its name.

The ballast improves stability, using the distance between force and counterforce as a lever.

The benefits of a bulb keel are very similar to that of a fin keel, but you’re likely to find increased comfort and stability and better performace.

The cons are also very similar to fin keels, and you’ll want to check the keel bolts carefully before you purchase a boat with a bulb keel, and make sure you’re on top of regular maintenance too.

A wing keel is again very similar to a fin keel, but with a horizontal fin at the tip of the keel that looks a little like wings.

The design of this keel gives most of the same advantages of a fin keel, but the edge it has over it is the fact it can have a shallower draft, meaning you can sail in shallower waters. These boats tend to be popular for river or lake sailing for this reason.

The cons of this design are that you will lose some windward performance compared to the fin keeled sailboats, and you might find the wing creates drag and therefore a slower performance overall.

A bilge keel boat has two keels, or twin keels placed off centre. They are a popular type of keel although less common than fin and full keels.

One of the big advantages of these types of sailboat keel is that they allow the boat to be beached and rest on the keels. This also makes running aground safer, especially compared to fin keeled boats.

Bilge keels have double the wetted surface area, increasing the overall comfort of the boat and its directional stability. They also sail pretty well to windward.

Compared to the fin keel, bilge keeled sailboats tend to be slower, especially the older models. What you lose slightly in speed you tend to make up for in comfort.

Sailboats with a centreboard keel can give you the best of both worlds. With a keel that retracts, usually resting on a hinge that can be raised or lowered through a slot in the hull, it can increase or reduce the draft of a sailboat.

You will find sailboats that have ballasted lifting keels, and ones where the centreboard isn’t essential to the stability of the boat and carry hardly any weight.

With the centreboard down, the idea is that the sailboat will track better to wind and give you more maneuverability. It should make your boat behave similarly to a full keeled sailboat.

With the board up, you will be able to reach much shallower waters. It also means the boat is faster under motor alone with less drag through the water, and often a more effective downwind sailor too. Some of the best shallow draft liveaboard sailboats have lifting keels.

The disadvantages of a lifting keel are that you will lose some performance, especially when sailing upwind.

There is also the safety aspect of more working parts that need to be maintained, and with boats that have a ballasted lifting keel the danger of losing the keel is even more prevalent.

A sailboat keel is the fin that hangs underneath a sailboat like a dagger, providing stability against strong sideways forces of wind.

The design is crucial to hold the boat upright and make sailing tack easier, with its depth and shape involving meticulous calculations of size, weight, center of gravity, providing buoyancy, and other features.

On modern sailboats, the keel may be made out of cast iron or steel for extra strength, while traditional boats would opt for a design comprised of lead or copper.

Regardless of its form though, it proves to be an absolute must-have device on any ship meant to travel on wind power alone.

Sailboats are designed to take advantage of the wind, allowing you to traverse the seas with relative ease. But what makes a sailboat so efficient? Well, it all comes down to its keel: the long, usually slightly curved structure that extends below your boat’s hull and helps keep it stable.

The keel on a boat is an integral part of its design and provides many essential functions.

Acting as an anchor, the keel helps to keep the vessel in place regardless of wind and current conditions.

It also helps to increase the stability of the boat by lowering its center of gravity and distributing weight more evenly across it. This improves the handling of the boat, which can be especially important in rough waters.

The keel holds the ballast for the sailboat, keeping it from tipping over and meaning it can right itself if it does capsize.

All told, a boat’s keel plays a very important role in making sure that its passengers have a safe, stable ride out on open water.

Most keels are made from the same material as the boat itself – usually fibreglass, wood or steel.

They will then also contain a ballast. A heavier material that gives the boat its righting ability, and prevents it from capsizing easily in heavy seas.

The ballast in sailboat keels are traditionally created from iron or lead to give the boat stability and balance in the water.

The answer to this question is, it depends. There are sailboats that have been designed without keels, such as sailing dinghies that rely on daggerboards, and catamarans.

If your sailboat has been designed to have a keel, though, then it would be very dangerous to head out sailing without one.

Keels are designed to counteract the forces that the sails, wind, and waves put on a boat and make sure it stays upright. Or if it is knocked over it will right itself again. Without a keel there is a high likelihood that your sailboat will capsize and remain inverted.

As the keel is one of the most important parts of your sailboat you’re going to want to really take care of it.

One of the main things you’ll need to do on a regular basis is keep your keel clean. This will help immensely when it comes to performance, as even a little growth on the keel can slow you down a lot.

Another benefit to keeping your keel clean is that it’s easier to do a basic sight inspection. You can check for any cracks or possible damage that might have occurred if you hit something or run aground.

The best way to keep your keel clean is to have it jetwashed when you come out of the water to antifoul your boat. Without taking your boat out of the water the only way to clean it is to dive down and do it yourself, which many sailors will do at least once a season.

Another very important check to carry out yearly is a keel bolt inspection if your boat has a keel that is bolted on.

Outside check

• Check for rust along the hull to keel joint.
• Check for signs of movement along the hull to keel joint (any cracks or splits in the joint area)

Inside check

• Is the bilge dry? Bilges should be clean and dry to help prevent corrosion.
• Do a visual check of the fastenings in the bilges.
• Check for rust or staining around the fastenings.
• Check for signs of movement. This will probably appear as stress cracks around the keel bolts.

If you notice any of these signs then get your keel checked by a professional surveyor who will be able to tell you what’s going on, why, and what your next steps should be.

It is extremely unlikely that your keel will break at sea, especially if you follow the correct maintenance and make sure that if you run aground you haul the boat immediately for an inspection.

There have been a few cases of keel bolts failing at sea, and these cases obviously hit the headlines as they cause total disaster, and lives are often tragically lost.

If you hear the sound of your keel falling off at sea then you need to act extremely quickly. You have hardly any time at all until the boat is likely to capsize. Make sure you have a command for anyone down below so that they have time to get up on deck immediately.

One of the only things you can do is launch and get into your liferaft before you capsize. This is why it is so important to have a liferaft that is easy to launch and a grab bag with essentials like an Epirb that is easily accessible.

Conclusion: Sailboat Keels And Their Advantages

After exploring the various types of sailboat keels, it’s clear that each offers its own advantages and disadvantages.

While a full-keel boat offers exceptional stability against strong winds or currents, it lacks speed and maneuverability due to its heavier weight.

Conversely, a centerboard or winged keel has far superior speed and agility but lacks the same level of lateral stability as a full-keel boat.

No matter what type of sailing you enjoy, analyzing sailboat keel types can make all the difference in finding the right boat for your needs.

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Sailboat Keel Depth: Draft of 9 Common Keel Types

Most sailboats have one of three drafts, based on their keel type. Inland water boats using centerboards have the least draft, while bluewater boat keels run much deeper.

The depth of sailboat keels depends on their design. Boats designed for inland waters usually have a draft of around 0.6m (or 2ft). Bluewater boats can either use a full keel or fin keel. Full keels run on average around 1m (or 3ft) deep. Fin keels, wing keels, and bulb keels run on average 1.8m (or 6ft) deep.

Below, I'll go over each keel type's depth and also show the range of depth based on different boat lengths, both in metric and imperial.

Draft of 9 Most Common Keel Designs

The average depth of different keel types is not readily available on the internet. To find these numbers, I've measured dozens of technical scale drawings of yachts in an old Dutch sailing book published in 1977. The numbers are quite consistent.

In order to keep things simple, I'll go over the rough averages first, before diving into a bit more detail based on boat length. After that, I'll discuss why different keel designs use different depths.

Average depths based on keel type

• Full keel : 0.8m or 3ft
• Modified full keel : 1.2m or 4ft
• Fin keel : 1.8m or 6ft
• Bulb keel : 1.8m or 6ft
• Wing keel : 1.8m or 6ft
• Bilge keel : 0.6m or 2ft
• Daggerboard : 0.6m or 2ft
• Centerboard : 1m or 3ft
• Leeboards : 0m or 0ft
• Canting keel : 5m or 16ft

Keel depths for different boat lengths

Keel Depth Explained

Different keel designs use different depths due to several factors. Fin keels are by far the longest keels, as they use their length to increase the leverage of the ballast. Full keels , on the other hand, require less depth since they carry more ballast and provide more wetted surface, which improves directional stability in itself.

Centerboards and daggerboards are often used in sailboat designs meant for use in inland waters, which is why they run on average less deep, with the daggerboard running the least deep of both at around 60cm or 2ft.

Bilge keels also run less deep, as this design was intended for use in tidal waters, and allows for safe beaching of the boat. The use of two blades instead of one doubles the wetted surface and ballast, allowing for a shoal draft.

Shoal draft simply means the keel doesn't run deep.

How deep should a keel be?

A keel should be deep enough to provide enough wetted surface and enough leverage for the ballast to provide adequate righting moment for the used sail area, while simultaneously allowing access to desired waters.

Righting moment is the most important function of a keel .

For bluewater conditions, the keel tends to be at least 1 meter deep, in order to cut through the surface drift layer of the water.

The water's surface drift layer is the layer of water directly affected by the wind.

For most inland-water sailboats, this translated to a keel depth of between 0.5-1m. For offshore boats, keels tend to be deeper, at 1-1.8m.

Factors that affect keel depth:

• Keel design
• Ballast weight
• Desired sail area
• Usage conditions (inland, offshore, cruising, racing)

How keel design affects keel depth requirement

Keel design plays a major role in the amount of ballast required and the total weight of a sailboat keel .

Full keels span over a longer area fore to aft, which is why they can be less deep while achieving the same amount of wetted surface. They also carry more ballast, which provides similar or more righting moment at lower depths than fin keels.

Since fin keels are generally quite narrow, they need to run deeper to achieve the same amount of wetted surface and to provide a similar righting moment. However, since the ballast is further away from the hull, they can carry less ballast, making the boat lighter overall (and thus faster).

How hull width affects keel depth requirement

How is keel depth measured.

Keel depth is measured vertically from the waterline, which is where the hull touches the water, down to the lowest point of the keel. Keel depth is also called draft or draught.

What is the difference between draft and depth?

Depth is measured from the top of the keel to the top of the deck beam, at the center of its length. It refers to hull depth, as opposed to draft. Draft is measured from the center point at the waterline, down to the lowest point of the keel. It refers to the minimum water depth a boat requires.

When calculating minimum water depth, you want to take your boat's draft , not your boat's depth.

What is depth below keel?

Depth below keel, sometimes called keel offset, or depth below transducer, is the distance between the lowest point of the boat and the ocean floor. It is measured by the depth meter, which often shows it as a negative number.

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Sailboat Keels Explained

What's the Best Keel Design for Bluewater Sailing?

Better Sailing

Sailboat Keel Types

There is a wide variety of keels, each with particular characteristics that make them more suitable for certain types of navigation. The keel is the backbone of the ship’s skeleton that helps keep the boat upright, reducing sideways movement, while the rudder (or rudders, some ships have two) steers the boat. The boat is controlled by a wheel or tiller.

In inflatable boats and multihulls the keel, which prevents lateral drift, does not have any additional weight, but in the case of larger monohulls they have ballast keels which also provide a lever to improve the stability of the boat; the more weight under the hull, the more stability it will provide.

What is A Sailboat Keel?

The keel is the very bottom part of your sailboat. It keeps the boat from capsizing. Choosing the right keel for you is very important. Racers and open sea cruisers must have the deepest keels for more stability in rough water and into the strong winds. A disadvantage of a deep keel is the limit of the spots you can reach without running aground. A shallow keel is what you need if you are sailing offshore or even when doing long coastal voyages. Shallow keels are better and easier to find safe anchorages. Also, there is less risk of running aground. Sailboats with a full keel keep their course better and are better for long distances. But, if you are going many maneuvers near shore, a full keel is a bad idea. In this case, a fin keel is better for you. Now, let’s talk about the specific keel types: 

Here is a List of The Most Popular Sailboat Keels:

The fin keel is the most common type of keel, it is a single narrow keel under the boat, right in the middle. It usually contributes between 30% and 45% to the weight of the boat. They are very efficient, but it is not the ideal keel for shallow waters.

This is a variation of the fin with the weight concentrated in a bulb at the bottom. This type of keel is intended that by increasing stability and concentrating the weight a little higher, it can be used to reduce draft and thus assist navigation in shallow waters.

Full Keel (Or Long Keel)

This longer, shallower keel is usually found on traditional sailing boats. Although popular on long-distance cruises, boats with a full keel are often difficult to maneuver when they are downwind and need to make a large turning circle.

Also Read: Fin Vs Full Keel

A twin keel boat has two shallow keels located one on each side of the hull centreline. Its main advantage is the possibility for the boat to remain standing on the sand during low tide, as well as having a stabilizing effect of reducing rolling. They are most commonly found in small boats but are not as effective in reducing drift.

Pivot Daggerboard and Battened Daggerboard

These daggerboards are mobile, so they can withstand the range of maneuverability. Instead, they can be removed inside the hull of the boat to reduce the draft in shallow water, or when leaving or reaching the shore. The pivoting daggerboards rotate on a pin that allows the bottom to pivot upwards, towards the inside of the boat, while the batten daggerboards slide up and down vertically.

Retractable Keel and Pivoting Keel (Lifting keels)

Similar to the pivoting daggerboard (pivoting keel) and battened daggerboard (retractable keel), but with an addition to the ballast to help stability. These are ideal for shallow waters and are often found on small cruise ships designed for trawling or exploring tidal currents.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Keel types – full, deep fin, bulb, wing, centerboard, canting.

A keel balances a monohull in the water. The keel is a large flat shape with a aerodynamic leading edge. They come in six general variations: full, fin, bulb, wing, centerboard, and canting.

Full A full keel by definition runs the length of at least 50% of the hull. The forward edge curves vertically while the aft edge often connects to a rudder. The main advantage of a full keel are safe grounding and directional stability.

Safe grounding means a full keel is safer when you lie on hard ground. Whether along the coastline or in travel lift slings, the full keel provides a strong, stable balancing point for the hull. A full keel boat will not tip on its bow or stern. When you ground then, the boat will lay on her side in shoal water and take less damage. In a travel lift, the full keel is easier to sling with the longer keel line. Blocked up on the hard, the full keel provides a line of balance. Be it an unintentional or intentional grounding, a full keel has more stability.

A full keeled boat points well when in the water. It has good directional stability. Put the boat in a compass direction and with a properly designed full keel is likely to stay pointing in that compass direction. The full keel has longer waterline length so controls the flowing water more than shorter keels. The water rushes by for a longer distance and smoother flow. Turbulence is less likely to generate forces to twist the boat. The full keeled boat is less likely than a fin to fall off because this smoother flow. The boat has greater directional stability than a fin.

Fin By a fin, I refer to a simple deep keel that’s length is less than 50% of the hull. The fin is flat and sharp edged, shaped like a shark fin. A fin keel is fast. The fin keel has less wetted surface area than fuller keels and drafts more. The deeper draft makes the boat sail great. In general, the deeper a sailboat drafts, the faster she is. For racing and performance cruising, the fin keel is king. Reading threads in Sailnet, you’ll see Jeff_H as a great proponent. His articulate posts are worth a postmodernist’s read.

Bulb The bulb is a shoal draft fin keel. Basically, you saw off a deep fin keel and attach a torpedo shaped bulb of lead to the keel bottom. This shallower keel is a compromise between the performance of a fin but the realities of cruising in the Bahamas, Cheasapeake Bay, and other shoal water holes. Often makers these days produce shoal and deep versions of their designs. Hylas, Valiant, and Tayana come to mind. If you plan to sail in shoal waters, they recommend a bulb keel but otherwise you will enjoy the deep fin keel. As a side benefit if you do ground on a soft bottom and sink in, the bulb keel is the easiest to free. The bulb does not stick way down into or catch the muck like other designs. The bulb at the bottom plops out easily.

Wing The wing is another shoal alternative to the deep fin. Instead of one bulb at the keel bottom, the wing has two bulbs laterally offset and connected via lead airplane wings. Or the wing is a thick foil of lead without bulbs. The wing has better performance than the bulb because she reduces tip vortex turbulence. The draft can be even less. Because the two bulbs are offset they do not mess with the leading keel edge and generate turbulence like a simple bulb keel. As a drawback, the wing is the most difficult to free if you slide into muck. The wings have a way of gripping down into the bottom. Wing keels are seen on Catalinas and Irwins.

Centerboard Another shoal idea is the centerboard. The centerboard keel has a base keel with a dagger than rotates downward. When the water is deep, you stick the centerboard down. When shoal, you sail centerboard up. You get the performance of a deep keel and the manuverability of the shoal – a perfect idea, right? The drawback is maintenance with the centerboard. As with any moving part, problems arise. The centerboard has to be maintained.

Canting The latest and oddest in performance is the canting keel. A canting keel mounts on a hinge and when the boat heels, racers hydrolically rotate the keel to windward. Rotating the keel away from your heeling direction, generates force which both rights the boat and propels her forward. The downside is the maintenance and complexity associatied with the canting keel. It is the future for racing but not perfected yet. I saw the 65 Windship, Procyon, of the Harken brokers which has a canting keel (and bipod mast to boot). “How do you like the whole canting keel thing?” a fellow broker asked. “It’s great. Oh boy is she fast.” The owner loves the canting keel but of course there are downsides of maintenence and the inherent risk of failure with any complex system. Every sailboat decision is a trade-off.

Conclusion The main types of keels are the full, deep fin, bulb, wing, centerboard, and canting. The full is the oldest and slowest while the canting is the newest and most complex. In general, the bulb, wing, and centerboard are compromises on a deep fin to allow for shoal water cruising.

4 Replies to “Keel Types – Full, Deep Fin, Bulb, Wing, Centerboard, Canting”

1.) Why not make a canting bulb/wing keel? 2.)Alternatively: bilge keels could be added as is apparent in the above picture: canting bulb/wing keel + bilge keels. 3.) Fixed bulb/wing + bilge keel

Somebody could clinch a thesis on hydrodynamics by quantifying the results of these various combinations.

1.) Why not make a canting bulb/wing keel? Canting keels generally are bulb keels. The concept of a canting keel is to get as much of the ballast weight to windward as possible. Typically, below the hull a canting keel consists of a strut and a bulb. The strut is generally made as light as possible, while the bulb is made as heavy as possible. The bulb is typically shaped to minimize drag while getting the ballast as low as possible. Typically this is a flattened torpedo shape.

There is no reason to combine a canting keel with a wing keel. Conceptually, wing keels generally are about increasing lift while minimizing vortex induced drag. Since the canting keel does not act as a foild providing resistance to leeway,adding a wing would do very little, but also wings are very sensitive to having a proper angle of attach and the nature of a canting keel is that the angle of attach would vary widely.

2.)Alternatively: bilge keels could be added as is apparent in the above picture: canting bulb/wing keel + bilge keels. Canting keels are generally combined with dagger boards which are angled outboard and which are raised and lowered on each tack. These dagger boards are the foils which provide the lift resisting leeway. These are generally not part of the ballasting system. If they were fixed in place, the added drag of having two foils, plus the canting keel would offset the advantage of a canting keel except in higher wind conditions.

3.) Fixed bulb/wing + bilge keel Again, the whole driving force with keel design is to maximize resistance to heeling, and maximize lift while minimizing drag within the intended draft of the vessel. Bilge keels generally start out with a lot of drag for the amount of lift and stability that they produce. Their sole advantage has nothing to do with sailing ability, as much as it does with produce a shallow draft boat that stand on its own legs when the tide runs out.

Adding a fixed bulb or wing keel to bilge keels would only increase the drag and would add minimal lift due to the interference to the flow caused by the turbulence of the three foils on each other when operating in close proximaty.

Somebody could clinch a thesis on hydrodynamics by quantifying the results of these various combinations. Not Likely

I would strongly disagree with the Conclusion above. While it is true that full keels are the oldest form of a keel, it is a big mistake to think they offer more stability than a bulb keel. In a general sense, a properly designed bulb keel locates its ballasting more efficiently than most full keels. In practice, pound for pound the righting forces are enormous for the average bulb keel as compared to a typical full length keel. I would also somewhat disagree with the generalization that a bulb keel is a compromise on a deep keel to allow for shoal water cruising. Bulb keels optimize righting moment for a given draft which is why bulb keels are the current norm for deep draft race boats as well as shallower draft performance boats.

You also do not address keels with cut away forefoots, and forward placed stern posts that were so common during the CCA era. These offer almost none of the virtues of a full keel or fin keel, with almost all of the liabilities of both.

Respectfully, Jeff

I am about to turn 77. I have sailing experience from age 6 to 18 on a 12 sailing pram with a 17′ mast and 100sq’ of sail that my dad built and have not sailed since. I am looking to find & buy a 28′ to 40′ sloop with all the trimmings from wheel steering to radar and a dingy, all in good working order and at less than $10,000. It is my plan to sail her in the Caribbean until we get used to each other and then up to Nova Scotia & then either east to the Mediterranean or west around Canada to the Pacific where I would love to sail her for the rest of my life. Yes this is a pipe dream but before I had enough to buy this dream I found over 150 online that fit my parameters. Now I have the cash for her & I can limit my choices to the very best deals. I realize there is a sailing and navigation course or 2 to be done before I attempt this and in addition I do have a few questions.

My questions are these – furling foresail — yea or nay furling mainsail — yea or nay best all around type of keel ? Deisel or gas inboard Radar – yea or nay solar &/or wind electric generation

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07 Different types of Keels you should know

The keel of a boat is a vital component that helps keep the vessel stable and prevents it from capsizing. The keel is a fin-like structure that extends downwards from the hull and rests on the seabed. This weight distribution helps to keep the boat upright, even in rough seas. The keel also plays an important role in steering the boat. It is common knowledge that the keel of a boat is one of the most important parts of the hull.

However, it is also true that there are many other parts that are equally important to the overall performance of a boat . The keel is used to provide longitudinal stability that allows the boat to move forward or backwards without going out of control. Lateral stability is provided by the rudder.

What does keel do and how does it work?

The keel is a vital part of a boat and it does a lot to keep the boat stable. The keel is located on the bottom of the boat and it helps to keep the boat from tipping over. The keel also provides a lot of stability when the boat is moving through the water. The keel is also responsible for controlling the boat’s direction.

The keel is made up of a flat foot in the center and a flat edge. The keel also has two round weights on each side that are called ballast stones. The two ballast stones are made of lead and they are attached to the keel by an iron rod. The lead balls in the ballast stones will help to keep the boat from tipping over.

Types of keels

There are many different types of keels, and each has its own benefits and drawbacks. In this article, we will explore the different types of keels and discuss of each.

1. Fin keel

There are a variety of different types of keels, each with its own benefits and drawbacks. One type of keel, called a fin boat keel, has become increasingly popular in recent years. The fin keel is the simplest type of keel. It consists of one or more straight fins made out of metal. These fins may be either vertical, which are used on sailboats and kayaks, or horizontal, which are used on motorboats and most small fishing boats.

Fin keels are most commonly used on sailboats, where the keel runs parallel to the center of the boat and is moved up and down by a pulley system.

2. Bulb keel

The bulb boat keel is a recent innovation in boat design that offers many advantages over traditional keels. A bulb boat keel is a truncated cone-shaped structure that is attached to the bottom of a boat’s hull. The bulbous shape creates more lift and stability than a traditional keel, making the boat more responsive and easier to control. Additionally, the bulb boat keel creates less drag than a traditional keel, making the boat faster and more efficient.

The bulb keel is usually made from aluminum or fiberglass, and is very light in weight. In addition to the benefits it offers over a traditional keel, the bulb shape of the bulb boat keel enables it to be attached either vertically or horizontally to the hull of a boat.

3. Twin fin keel

Twin fin keel boats are unique in that they have two fins instead of one. This gives the boat more stability and makes it less likely to tip over. Twin fin keel boats are also easier to maneuver, making them a popular choice for sailing enthusiasts. They can be sailed in both calm and rough waters, making them ideal for a variety of sailing conditions.

4. Ballasted keel

A ballasted keel is a keel that is weighted down to provide stability to a boat. This type of keel is found on many boats and is especially common in sailboats. A ballasted keel can be made from a variety of materials, including lead, iron, or concrete. The weight of the material helps to keep the boat from tipping over and provides stability in rough waters. Some boats have a ballasted keel because they are easier to handle in rough conditions. Other boats have a ballasted keel because they are more efficient than other types of hulls.

5. Skeg or centerboard keel

The Skeg or centerboard keel is a hybrid keel that is made up of two different types of keels. The skeg is the part of the keel that is located in the front of the boat and is made up of a centerboard and a daggerboard. The centerboard is used to keep the boat from slipping sideways and the daggerboard is used to keep the boat from slipping forward. The skeg is used in boats that need to be more stable in rough water. The centerboard is used in a boat that has a very low freeboard or the amount of water over the top of the boat.

6. Bilge keel

A bilge keel is a thin, long and shallow fin extending from the hull of a boat below the waterline. Bilge keels are often fitted to boats with twin hulls in order to improve stability and reduce the amount of roll. They are also common on larger vessels, as they help to prevent the boat from heeling (tilting) too far to one side in high winds or during rough seas. Bilge keels are sometimes referred to as “keel fins”.

7. Foiling keel

Recently, there has been a trend towards foiling keels. These keels are made of carbon fiber and are mounted on top of the boat.

Is a keel guard worth it?

When it comes to boat accessories, one of the more debated items is the keel guard. Some people swear by them, while others believe they are a waste of money. So, what is the truth? Is a keel guard worth it?

The purpose of a keel guard is to protect the keel of your boat from being damaged. This is especially important if you are often in shallow water or if you have a fibreglass boat. A keel guard can protect the boat’s keel from damage caused by ice, rocks, coral and other potential hazards. It also helps prevent accidental damage to the bottom of your boat while it is in storage.

Where you will find good quality keel guard or protector?

Keel guards or protectors can be found in many places, but not all of them are created equal. Some are made of cheap materials that won’t last long and others are made of high-quality materials that will protect your boat for years. So, where can you find best keel guard and protector?

One place to find a high-quality keel guard or protector is on Amazon. Another place is on eBay.

And lastly, you can find a high-quality keel guard or protector at your local marine store.

Related: Best Keel Guard and Hull Protectors

How much does it cost to repair a boat keel?

The average boat keel repair costs between $1,000 and $3,000. However, the cost can vary greatly depending on the damage. Some keel repairs can be as simple as filling in a hole with putty and painting over it, while others may require the entire keel to be replaced. If you’re not sure what’s wrong with your keel, it’s best to take the boat to a marine mechanic for a diagnosis.

How do I know if my boat has a keel?

Some boats do not have keels, while others have more than one. If you are unsure whether your boat has a keel, there are a few things you can do to find out. The easiest way to determine if your boat has a keel is to look at it from the side. The keel is located on the underside of the boat in a small opening that is usually covered with a strip, called a chine.

A few boats may not have this at all and instead have the keel built into the bottom of the hull. If you see a keel on the side of your boat, there is a good chance that it is an integral part of the hull.

In conclusion, there are many different types of keels available for sailboats. It is important to choose the right type of keel for your boat and sailing style.

If you are unsure about which keel is best for your boat, be sure to consult with a professional. They can help you choose the right keel and install it properly for optimal performance.

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