yacht anchor and chain

The Ultimate Guide To Anchors And Anchor Chain

You may have seen it already over July 4th weekend: a boater going for his/her ground tackle in a hurry only to be stopped by knots, tangles, or an anchor that is not connected properly.

Embarrassment and inconvenience aside, mismanagement of your anchoring system has the potential to cause serious damage. Besides the obvious use of anchoring up at the sandbar, an anchor also serves as an emergency brake. When you need it, you need it right away, and it must work for you.   Failure is a dangerous non-option, so in these two articles we will discuss how to keep you safe and your “e-brake” in working order.

What makes up your anchoring system?

Let’s start with what should be a refresher for most of us: some anchoring system terms. These terms are part of the vocabulary we need for discussing anchors. We will also highlight the components of the anchoring system and share tips and rules of thumb to help with anchoring product selection and best practices.

The length of galvanized metal links used to connect the anchor to the rode. The most common chain coil is BBB rated with thicker, shorter links that are stronger than standard proof chain. Chain is used for its weight and chafe protection. The chain helps the anchor to set and the rode to lie horizontally.

The long length of nylon rope with an eye splice and thimble which is attached to the anchor chain.

Anchor line comes in three-strand, braided, or 8-plait styles. The three-strand variety is popular with boaters because it absorbs shock better than braided and is less likely to fray or get cut on rocks or jagged bottoms.

Anchor line is available in various diameters and lengths depending on your boat. The larger the boat, the wider and longer the anchor line required. There are many options to consider when picking your anchor rope.

The anchor line and anchor chain combined.

Anchor Shackle

The metal load-bearing connector between the anchor chain and the anchor.

Choose a high-quality shackle that can withstand stress. Hot dip galvanized metal shackles are the most sturdy and durable.

A pivoting metal connector that some boaters install next to the anchor shackle.

Swivels are designed to release the twist in the anchor chain as it comes onboard so it will flake into the locker more easily and be ready to redeploy rapidly. Swivels are a hotly debated topic among boaters due to the potential for catastrophic failure of the swivel under high loads.

An additional length of line attached to the anchor chain and deck mooring hardware.

Snubbers help absorb shock while anchored in swells or high-wake areas. This takes strain off the windlass and deck. Snubbers are commonly used on boats deploying all-chain rodes.

Ground Tackle

All anchoring related equipment including the anchor, anchor chain, anchor line, shackles, and connectors.

The ratio of the length of anchor rode deployed to the vertical distance between the sea floor and the point where your anchor rode comes on board.

Aim for a 5:1 scope ratio minimum, although a 7:1 ratio is preferable given the room. The lower the ratio, the greater the chance your anchor may drag.

Holding power

The amount of pull force an anchor can withstand while remaining set.

Holding power is expressed in pounds and can be measured with a strain gauge. Heaver anchors and anchors with large fluke areas tend to have higher holding power.

Metal weight of any kind that is attached at some point along your anchor rode.

This ballast weight is also known as an anchor buddy/rider/chum/angel. The weight of the kellet used depends on the size of the boat. Kellets are a controversial and debated solution designed to help anchors set and avoid dragging as well as to dampen the surge from swells or wake.

The curve of the anchor rode between the boat and the anchor.

A low angle of pull on the anchor maintains the catenary curve and provides energy absorption. Due to their weight, chain rodes have good catenary curves in light to medium winds, however in strong winds, the chain goes taut and loses its curve, offering no energy absorption.

Setting The Hook: Things To Consider When Selecting An Anchor

With all the anchoring system components fresh in our minds, it is time to apply them and select the right anchor . Three variables to consider during anchor selection are:

As a rule, your anchor chain should be at least as long as your boat, but no shorter than 10 to 15-feet. Your anchor line length will depend on anchoring depth. If you will be anchoring in deeper water, you will need enough rode to achieve a proper scope ratio. The rule of thumb is to plan 8-feet of line per 1-foot of anchoring depth.

Where you anchor makes a difference. What are the currents, winds, and tides like? Will you be anchoring in protected waters? Select your anchoring equipment based on the type of locations and conditions in which you will be deploying your anchor.

Do you have a clean bottom?   What does your bottom surface consist of?   This determines not only holding power but also what anchor works best for the bottom you are anchoring in. Some anchors like a pivoting-fluke or non-hinged scoop do well in sand while others with broad flukes are best in mud. Consider a plow-shaped or grapnel anchor to dig into rocky bottoms and a heavy anchor for difficult shale, clay, and grass bottoms.

Anchor Types and Uses

Anchors come in six different types, and as we learned, the best anchor for you will depend on your boat, your location, and the sea bottom. Whichever type of anchor you choose, ensure you consult manufacturer guidelines to select an anchor weight that is heavy enough for your boat. The six types of anchors are:

Three claws help the claw or Bruce anchor dig into most types of bottoms, including rock. Note that you need a heavier anchor for your boat size to get a good set. The lower price of a claw anchor makes it a common choice with recreational boaters.

Danforth/Fluke

Pivoting flukes help this anchor bury itself in soft bottoms with grass or mud. A Danforth, or fluke type of anchor stows flat and is often used in smaller boats where space is at a premium.

The fixed upright flukes of the grapnel dig into many bottom types and offer a better hold than a standard fluke anchor in harder bottoms. A light version of a grapnel anchor can be a good choice for smaller boats.

The rounded bottom of a mushroom anchor simply rests on the seabed, making it best for small craft, canoes, and kayaks in waters with flat, even sea bottoms.

The sharp point of a plow anchor digs into rocky bottoms or those covered in grass and weeds. Plow anchors may also be called CQRs or wing anchors. They are common on larger boats that are anchoring in varying conditions and types of sea bottoms.

The newest anchor type – the scoop – works in many bottom types and has high holding power. Scoop anchors are designed to be easier to set and reset than other anchor types. Scoops are available in Rocna, Spade, or Manson configurations.

Most Common Anchoring Mistakes

Time to learn from others’ mishaps. Watch out for these common errors that boaters make when selecting or deploying their anchoring system:

• Not securing the bitter end of the anchor line – usually seen on smaller day cruisers
• Improperly sized anchor for size of boat or conditions
• Wrong anchor for sea bottom
• Not enough scope
• Not enough chain

The Takeaways

Your boat’s anchoring system is like the emergency brake on a vehicle. When you need it, you can’t afford for it to fail. Set yourself up for anchoring success by outfitting your boat with the proper anchor, rode, and other components for the boat size, boating location, and type of sea bottom you expect to anchor in.

When you get ready to anchor, confirm your anchor line is properly secured to the boat and set with sufficient scope so the anchor won’t drag. Following these basic guidelines will help ensure your time on the water is as safe as possible.

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How to Pick an Anchor Rope Size, Type, Length and More

Every anchor needs to be attached to the boat some how. In this article we'll discuss everything anyone ever needed to know about anchor rode.

Video: Everything You Need to Know About Anchor Rode

The video below answers many of the topics addressed here although the article goes into more detail (so there is some reward for reading!).

What is anchor rode?

Rode simply refers to the line and/or chain that connects the anchor to your boat. (Believe it or not,   rode   is not a typo!)

Ideally, the rode for any anchor setup should consist of both chain and rope. The chain should be on the end with the anchor. Why use both chain and rope? First, it keeps the nylon rode from wearing away by rubbing on the bottom of the sea-floor as the boat swings. Second, because the chain is heavy, it holds the rode to the bottom so the pull on the anchor is horizontal, which reduces the chances of your anchor unsetting.

What type of rope should I use? Nylon, Polyester, or ...?

For most boaters, the best type of rope to use when anchoring is nylon. Nylon has many advantages for anchoring including:

• It's elastic therefore offering good shock absorption
• Light and flexible
• Good strength
• The most common anchor rope found in marine stores

Nylon anchor rope is light, flexible, strong, and provides elasticity, which mitigates peak loads on your anchor and boat. Unfortunately, the very fact that nylon stretches means that it creates heat and will eventually break down and need to be replaced. However, you want a strong rope that will absorb the shock from waves and sink, not float. Nylon fits the bill of all of these things.

What's the difference between braided and twisted rope?

In our experience, for most recreational boaters, the difference between using twisted anchor rope or braided anchor rope comes down to preference and taste. Both make excellent choices for an anchor rope but there are some subtle differences between these two styles of rope.

Braided Rope

• Less stiff and more flexible
• Frequently stronger than twisted rope
• Easier on the hands
• Difficult to splice
• Less stretch than twisted rope

Twisted Rope

• Fairly easy to splice
• Generally less expensive
• Has more stretch than braided
• Has a tendency to kink or hockle
• More stiff and less flexible

How much anchor rope do I need and what size?

One of the questions we get asked most often is, "How much anchor rope and/or chain do I need?" When selecting how much rope and chain you need there are a couple of rules of thumb to use.

• You should have 8 feet of rope for every 1 foot of water you will be anchoring in
• Your rope should have 1/8" of rope diameter for every 9' of boat.

So this means a 28' boat would want at least a 3/8" or 1/2" diameter rope. Rope is one of those things, like anchors, where bigger normally is better.

As for a rope choice, Nylon is the clear favorite due to the fact it is elastic and relatively strong,

How much anchor chain do I need and what size?

Along with the rope, you should also have a smaller amount of chain between the rope and the anchor. This chain will keep your rope from rubbing against the seabed and also creates the optimal angle between your rode and the seabed. The general rule of thumb is that you want approximately 1' of chain for every 1' of boat. So a 30' boat would want 30' of chain. However, often certain constraints such as weight and locker room will not allow this ideal chain amount so in these situations you should have at least 10-15' of anchor chain for the reasons mentioned above. For boaters anchoring in extreme conditions and/or for extended periods of time, you will want about 1 foot of chain for every 6 feet of rope. The reason for the different requirements is that, in theory, by having 1 foot of chain for every 6 feet of rope, an optimal angle between the rode and the seabed will be achieved.

What type of chain do I need? (I   am not   using a windlass)

If you're not using an anchor windlass, your life is easy! Any chain that you can buy at a marine store that follows the size rules above should be adequate. Hardware store chain can also sometimes suffice but you should always be conscious of the breaking strength of it and ensure that it is   galvanized . If you are not using a windlass, you can simply attach your rope to your anchor using a shackle in between (ideally your rope will have an eye and/or thimble spliced into one end to make attaching a shackle easy.

What type of chain do I need? (I   am   using a windlass)

If you are using an anchor windlass then your choices are limited and you must use only the type and size of chain specified by the windlass manufacturer. Normally this type of chain will be G4 or BBB chain. Don't have your windlass manual? We have an article that lists the  type and size of chain required by most popular sizes of windlass here . Windlass chain is a whole other topic and in fact, we have another article  all about windlass chain here . If you are using a windlass, remember that you must  splice   your rope to your chain as a shackle going through your windlass gypsy will be bad news. (You can also hook the shackle around your windlass as well once it gets to that point but that's a pain!) You can purchase a prespliced rope and chain package or you can  splice your own .

Published May 01, 2018

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Boat Anchor Chain – 11 Things You Should Know

A boat anchor chain is one of the most important pieces of equipment on a boat. The chain attaches the anchor to the boat and provides a strong connection that can hold against even the strongest winds and waves. It’s important to choose a quality chain that will withstand wear and tear over time.

When choosing for a boat anchor chain, be sure to consider the thickness and strength of the metal. The thicker and stronger the chain, the more reliable it will be in difficult conditions. Also look for corrosion-resistant coating to protect it from rusting.

How is anchor chain made

When you’re cruising along and drop your anchor, you’re relying on a piece of equipment known as an anchor chain. This chain is made up of heavy-duty links that connect the anchor to the boat. It’s important to know how this crucial piece of equipment is made.

The process of making this chain begins with steel billets. These billets are heated until they are molten and then formed into chains. The chains are then put through a series of machines that polish and straighten them. They are also treated with a coating that helps to protect them from corrosion.

The links in an this chain can be up to nine inches long and weigh up to 14 pounds each. The entire chain can weigh more than 2,000 pounds.

Types of boat anchor chains

When it comes to boat anchor chains, there are three main types: galvanized, stainless steel, and nylon coated. The main difference between these chains is the material used in their construction. 

Galvanized chains are made of zinc-plated steel. This makes them less likely to corrode in salt water environments. However, they are also the heaviest and most expensive to consider.

Stainless steel chains are resistant to rust and corrosion. They are also lighter than galvanized chains, but more expensive. 

Nylon coated chains offer the best resistance to corrosion and abrasion. They are also lightweight and affordable.

Boat anchor chain size

When it comes to boat anchors, size does matter. The weight of the anchor is critical, but the size of the chain is also important. You don’t want to use a small chain with a large anchor, or a large chain with a small anchor.

The right size chain will help you set your anchor quickly and keep it in place. It’s also important to use a chain that is strong enough to hold your boat in place during high winds and rough seas.

The most common size for boat anchor chains is 5/16 inch. This size is strong enough to hold most boats in place, but it’s also lightweight and easy to handle. If you have a larger boat, you may want to use a chain that is 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick.

How much anchor chain do you need

Anchors and chains are important pieces of safety gear for any boat. It is important to know how much anchor chain you need for your boat in order to ensure that you have the proper weight and length of chain.

The first step is to determine the size of your anchor. This can be done by consulting your boat’s owner’s manual or by measuring the anchor itself. Once you have the size of your anchor, you can then use a chart to find out how much chain is needed.

Most boats will need between 50 and 100 feet of chain, depending on the size of the anchor and the depth of the water. It is also important to make sure that you have enough rope or line to attach the chain to the bow of your boat.

How to attach chain to anchor

When anchoring a boat, it is important to use a heavy chain to ensure the boat stays in place. The chain should be attached to the anchor and the anchor should be attached to the boat. There are several ways to do this.

One way is to use an iron shackle. This is a metal clip that can be opened and closed. The shackle can be attached to the chain and then attached to the anchor.

Another way is to use a swivel clip. This is a metal clip with a swivel on it. The swivel allows the clip to move around so that it can attach easily to both the chain and the anchor.

A third way is to use an anchor bridle. This is a piece of rope with loops on each end. One loop goes around the anchor and the other goes around the chain.

When to replace anchor chain

Anchor chain should be inspected regularly for signs of wear and tear. If the chain is worn or damaged, it needs to be replaced.

It’s important to know when to replace it. If the chain is heavily corroded, damaged, or has links that are missing or broken, it needs to be replaced. Another indication that it might be time for a new chain is if your current one doesn’t have enough length to reach the bottom in the area where you normally anchor. 

When replacing it, make sure you get the right size and type of chain for your boat.

How to choose the right anchor chain

When you’re looking for a new anchor chain, there are a few things you need to keep in mind.

The size of the boat or ship

When you are looking to buy anchor chain, it is important to consider the size of your boat or ship. If you have a smaller boat, you don’t need as much chain as someone with a larger boat. You also need to make sure that the chain is strong enough to hold your boat in place. 

The size of an anchor chain refers to the diameter of the links in the chain. A larger diameter will provide more strength and stability than a smaller diameter. It’s also important to make sure that the weight of the chain is appropriate for your boat. A heavy chain can cause problems with stability and maneuverability.

Materials of the chain

When you are choosing an anchor chain, you need to consider the material of the chain. One popular option for anchor chain material is stainless steel. Stainless steel is corrosion resistant and has a high breaking strength. However, it can be expensive and it is heavier than some other materials. 

Another option for this chain material is galvanized steel. Galvanized steel is less expensive than stainless steel and also corrosion resistant, but it does not have as high a breaking strength as stainless steel. 

Finally, some people choose to use nylon rope for their anchor chain. Nylon rope is lightweight and has a low breaking strength, but it is also very affordable.

The weight of the anchor

Whe weight of the anchor should be a major consideration when purchasing. Lighter anchors need lighter chain, while heavier anchors require heavier chain. If you choose an anchor that is too light for the chain you have, your anchor will not be able to set properly and could easily break free in a storm. 

If you choose an anchor that is too heavy for your chain, you could overload your system and cause damage to your boat or even worse, lose your boat.

The type of seabed

When choosing anchor chain, it is important to consider the type of seabed where you will be using it.

If you will be anchoring in sand or mud, you will need a heavy-duty chain with a large diameter. A chain with a small diameter will quickly become clogged with sediment and may not hold your boat in place. 

If you will be anchoring in rock, you will need a light-duty chain with a small diameter. A chain with a large diameter will cause damage to the rocks and may not hold your boat in place.

It’s also important to make sure that your chain is long enough to reach the bottom of the water where you will be anchoring.

Consider Price

Heavier and larger anchors are in general tend to be more expensive, but they are also more durable and can hold onto the bottom better in strong winds and currents.

If you’re looking for an anchor that will serve you well in a variety of conditions, it may be worth spending a little extra money on a high-quality model. However, if you’re only going to use your boat in calm waters, a less expensive option may be sufficient.

Where to buy anchor chain

If you are in the market for a new anchor chain, there are a few places you can buy it. The first place to look is usually an online retailer. There are a few reputable retailers that sell anchor chains, and they usually have a variety of sizes and lengths to choose from.

Another option is to go to a local marine store. These stores typically carry a wide variety of boat supplies, including anchor chains. They may also have anchors for sale, so it is worth checking out their inventory if you need both items.

Finally, you could also try looking for a salvage company in your area. These businesses typically sell used boat parts, and they may have an anchor chain or two available for purchase. Just be sure to ask about the condition of the chain before you buy it!

Boat anchor chain maintenance tips

Boat anchors are a necessary piece of equipment for any vessel, but proper care and maintenance is required to keep them functioning properly. One important part of anchor maintenance is keeping the chain healthy. The following tips can help you do just that:

• Inspect the chain regularly for signs of wear and tear. This includes looking for kinks, rust, and broken links.
• If you find any damage, remove the chain from service immediately and have it repaired by a qualified professional.
• Use a mild soap or detergent to clean the chain occasionally, making sure to rinse it thoroughly afterwards.
• Apply a coat of lubricant to the chain every few months to help keep it moving freely. You can apply coat of naval jelly to the links of the chain if you want. This will help to prevent corrosion. 
• Store the anchor and chain in a dry place when not in use.
• Never overload the chain or allow it to come into contact with sharp objects.
• Make sure all connections between links are tight and secure. Loose connections can cause chains to break under stress.
• If you have an electric windlass, make sure to keep it clean and well lubricated.
• Keep an extra anchor on hand, in case you need to replace one that is damaged or worn out.
• Practice using your anchors regularly, so that you’ll be familiar with how they work in different conditions.

Anchor chain vs Rope

The debate between anchor chain and rope has been around for years. Some people swear by anchor chains while others prefer ropes. So, what’s the difference?

Anchor chains are made of metal and typically weigh more than ropes. They are also less elastic, meaning they don’t stretch as much under tension. This makes them better suited for holding boats in place in windy or choppy waters. Anchor chains also tend to corrode less than ropes, making them a more durable option.

Ropes, on the other hand, are made of fibrous materials and can be lighter than chains. They are also more elastic, meaning they can stretch more under tension. This makes them better suited for tying down objects in calm waters. Ropes also tend to fray over time, while chains do not.

If your boat is heavy, then you’ll need a stronger anchor chain. A rope might not be able to hold the weight of your boat. However, if your boat is lightweight, then a rope will be just fine.

Another thing you need to consider is the type of bottom you’re anchored in. If you’re in mud or sand, an anchor chain will sink down and grip the bottom much better than a rope will.

Related: Which of the following must you do anchoring a boat at night? – 07 Things 

Stainless steel vs Galvanised anchor chain: Which is better?

When selecting an anchor chain for your boat, there are a few things you need to take into consideration. The two main types of chains are stainless steel and galvanised. So, which one should you choose?

Stainless steel anchors are made of high-quality steel that is resistant to rust and corrosion. This means they will last longer than galvanised anchors. They are also a little heavier, which can be a disadvantage when trying to lift them up off the bottom.

Galvanised anchors, on the other hand, are coated with a layer of zinc that protects them from rust and corrosion. This makes them less durable than stainless steel anchors, but they are much lighter in weight. This can be an advantage when trying to manoeuvre them into place.

However, if you live in a dry climate or your boat is stored in a covered area, galvanised chain would be fine. It’s also cheaper than stainless steel chain. If you live in a coastal area or plan to use your boat in salt water, we recommend opting for a stainless steel chain. Galvanised chain is fine for use in fresh water only.

Conclusion of Boat Anchor Chain

Boat anchor chains are an important part of any boat. They keep the boat anchored in one spot and prevent it from drifting. It is important to choose the right chain for your boat and make sure that it is properly attached.

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Anchor Selection: A Guide to Types and Sizes

Anchoring is a crucial aspect of boating, and the right anchor can provide stability, safety and peace of mind for any sailor. Choosing the correct type and size of anchor is essential, as it can greatly impact your overall experience on the water. This guide will outline the various types of anchors available, their ideal uses, and how to choose the right size for your boat.

Understanding the Purpose of Anchors

Anchors serve multiple purposes in boating:

• Holding power : Anchors are designed to provide holding power by digging into the seabed and creating resistance, preventing the boat from drifting.
• Temporary mooring : When a boat needs to be stationary for a short period, an anchor is used to secure it in place.
• Emergencies : Anchors can serve as a safety measure in emergencies by helping to control your boat’s movements in rough weather or if the engine fails.

Types of Anchors

There are several types of anchors to cater for various boating requirements and environments. The primary ones include:

Plow Anchors

Originally designed for large ships, plow anchors resemble a plowshare and offer excellent holding power in most bottom conditions, especially sand and mud. They work by digging into the seabed and maintaining a consistent grip. Plow anchors are popular among cruisers due to their adaptability, and they can handle a variety of wind and current changes.

Danforth Anchors

Also known as fluke anchors, Danforth anchors boast superior holding power in proportion to their weight. They’re characterized by their flat, sharp flukes and long shank that allows them to dig into soft substrates like sand and mud. However, Danforth anchors may struggle with rocky bottoms and can be challenging to set in grassy or weedy seabeds.

Claw Anchors

Claw anchors, also known as Bruce anchors, have three claws that provide holding power in a variety of bottom conditions. Due to their versatile design, they re-set easily when the boat’s position changes and can function with shorter scope, which is the anchor rode (chain or rope) payed out relative to the water’s depth. These factors make claw anchors popular among boaters, though their holding power may be less than that of plow or Danforth anchors.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors are useful for small boats in relatively calm conditions. As the name suggests, they’re shaped like a mushroom and utilize their weight to create a suction effect, embedding themselves into soft bottom substrates like silt or mud. However, they generally offer limited holding power in stronger currents or wind.

Choosing the Right Size Anchor for Your Boat

Selecting the appropriate size anchor for your vessel involves considering factors like boat weight, size, and the windage (resistance to wind). Generally, anchor manufacturers offer recommendations based on boat length, but it’s essential to factor in your specific boat’s requirements and typical anchoring conditions.

Anchor Weight

Anchors are typically sized by weight, ranging from a few pounds for small vessels to several hundred pounds for large yachts. The rule of thumb is that the heavier the boat, the heavier the anchor should be. However, it’s important to consider the type of anchor you’re using, as the holding power varies across anchor designs.

Boat Length

Boat length is another crucial aspect to consider when selecting an anchor size. Consult manufacturer guidelines on their recommendations for anchor sizing based on boat length.

Chain and Rode Size

The anchor rode, which connects your boat to the anchor, is critical for holding power. The scope, typically measured in a ratio of the rode’s length to the water’s depth, is an important factor for the anchor’s performance. A common recommendation is using a 4:1 scope for temporary mooring and a 7:1 scope for overnight anchoring. Ensure the chain (the section of the rode closest to the anchor) is of suitable size and strength to prevent it from breaking under strain.

Final Thoughts

When selecting an anchor for your boat, it’s essential to consider the type, size, and the conditions in which you’ll be anchoring. Consult manufacturer guidelines and conduct thorough research on the options available to make an informed decision. A properly sized and suited anchor will offer peace of mind, ensuring your vessel remains securely moored during your adventures on the water.

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Understanding Anchor Chain

• By Steve D'Antonio
• Updated: October 2, 2019

All chain’s the same, right? Well, no. There’s actually a variety of types and grades of anchor chain that cruising sailors should know about. What follows is a primer on understanding anchor chain and how to use it properly.

Types of Anchor Chain

Your Chain Explained

The most popular varieties of galvanized-steel windlass chain include high-test or grade 40 (usually marked HT, G4, or HT4); triple B or grade 30 (marked as BBB or 3B); and proof coil, also grade 30 (often marked PC, PC3, or G3). Each has attributes and shortcomings. BBB and proof coil are made from low-carbon steel; heat-treated high-test is made from a high carbon-manganese alloy.

HT chain is widely used because of its “strength-to-link” factor: Its working load limit is nearly twice that of BBB chain, and it has the highest weight-to-working load ratio. In other words, it allows the use of a thinner link, which means more chain can be stored in a given chain locker. Its links are also windlass calibrated, which means that they should fit any wildcat with an “HT” designation. Such links also tend to resist tangling in the locker.

Most PC chain is designated as “non-calibrated for windlass use.” This means it’s not designed to be used with a windlass wildcat. Period. Unfortunately, this caveat is unlikely to be stamped directly on the chain, so you can never be certain if the chain falls into this category. (If chain is verifiably approved for your windlass, it may be used for anchor rodes.) PC chain has roughly the same working load as BBB chain and the same number of links per foot as HT; for 3/8-inch chain, the ratio is 9.8 links per foot of chain. It’s worth noting that some windlass manufacturers, for obvious reasons, don’t offer a PC wildcat. If someone offers you a pile of cheap PC chain, beware.

Most high-quality chain from reputable manufacturers is embossed with a designation indicating the grade. Without one, you’ll be guessing about the chain’s strength. Failing to use chain designed for a specific windlass wildcat can lead to potentially dangerous overrides (above). This chain is in no-man’s land: It can’t be lowered or raised.

At one time, though not the strongest option for a given link size, BBB was the most popular anchor chain because it’s specifically calibrated for windlasses. But its primary attribute is its weight. A 100-foot length of 3/8-inch BBB weighs approximately 165 pounds, while identical lengths of HT and PC weigh 153 and 140 pounds, respectively. With anchor rodes, weight is critical. Every additional pound increases a chain’s catenary, the sag induced by the deployed chain. Still, many builders and sailors choose HT over BBB because, for the same tensile strength, they can fit more of it into cramped chain lockers. And, again, it’s less prone to tangle.

Maintaining Your Marine Chain

Inspect your marine chain carefully and regularly. Make certain that the links fit evenly into each recess of the wildcat and that the wildcat is equipped with a stripper, a steel bar that separates tensioned chain from the wildcat as it’s being retrieved. If the stripper is absent or bent, jams are more likely to occur. Finally, be sure that the bitter end of the chain is attached to the vessel via a spliced-on section of line that’s long enough to reach the deck. The splice should fit easily through the chain hawser. If you’re dragging onto a lee shore or you’re about to be run down, this line acts as a safety valve allowing you to quickly cut the boat free from the ground tackle.

To read more monthly maintenance tips, click here.

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• Anchoring & Mooring Correctly

Anchor chains and lines

In this comprehensive guide to anchor chains and anchor lines, we hope you'll find all the answers to the most important questions and plenty of helpful tips! As any skipper will tell you, every boat must have reliable, quality anchor equipment at its disposal. Not only is this essential when moored in a quiet and idyllic bay, but even more so when there is wind or swell. Making the right choice will therefore not only make your life easier on board, it is also paramount to ensuring the safety of your boat and its crew. Anchor chains can come in various grades and types, and each has its own specifications and features that enhance effectiveness. The wide range of products is sure to satisfy all requirements. However, one thing is true for all chains: the breaking load of an anchor chain must be such that it is able to withstand individually acting forces caused by the current, wind and swell in any situation, and this also depends on the boat's size, depth of the water and anchorage. The weight of your anchor chain is also an important factor to consider, as is how easy it is to handle on board. It may therefore be worthwhile looking at chain and rope combinations when choosing anchor rode.

The right choice

• Choosing an anchor chain
• DIN or ISO?

Anchor chain thickness

Anchor line or anchor chain, selection criteria & properties, length of anchor chain or line, chain fore-runner, anchor buddy (weight), attaching, using and caring for your anchor chain, finding the right anchor chain, how to choose the right anchor chain.

Finding the right anchor chain depends first and foremost on your type of boat and the area you sail in. Hot-dip galvanised steel chains are widely used in northern latitudes. "This type of chain is reasonably cheap, but also has properties you should be aware of," explains Dietbrecht, equipment expert at SVB. "Because of its rough surface, silt or algae tend to stick to it. Furthermore, the zinc coating could eventually rub off on the seabed, which could cause rust to occur on damaged areas."

What's more, when raising anchor, this kind of chain doesn't flow as compactly into the locker as well as others. The chain can form a pyramid, meaning that the hanging part won't be heavy enough to pull the chain down into the locker. This is not the case with smooth stainless-steel chains, also called Niro chains, but these are around three to four times more expensive and some alloys have little or no corrosion resistance in warm water areas (Caribbean or Mediterranean). The salt water literally eats into the steel and forms holes, which, if they remain unnoticed, can cause the chain to break unexpectedly under load. High-quality, so-called high-strength steel or duplex steel is supposed to prevent such a scenario, but other products also offer corrosion resistance.

Anchor chains: DIN or ISO?

What does din and iso mean.

In Germany, chains are manufactured according to the industry standard DIN 766. Chains from other European countries often correspond to the ISO standard 4565. DIN sizes correspond to uniform dimensions that have been established according to the German Institute for Standardisation (DIN). The International Organisation for Standardisation, ISO for short (from Greek isos = equal), is a corresponding international standardisation organisation. Outside Europe, chains are commonly measured in inches.

"If using a windlass on board, the size of the anchor chain must match that of the gypsy," says Dietbrecht. "If the links in the chain are the wrong size, it will jump and not run through smoothly." By conforming to strict calibration standards such as ISO or DIN, most anchor chains and chain links will run reliably through the windlass. According to DIN and ISO, round steel chain links with a thickness of six and eight millimetres are identical in terms of link length and internal link dimensions. Differences in classification only exist from a size of ten millimetres of steel chain. This information is usually indicated on the winch. However, these industry standards do not say anything about the material of the chain steel and the alloys can have very different properties. Steel chains of the designations 1.4401, AISI 316, V4A, 1.4404, AISI 316L are not considered suitable for seawater in warm areas. The benchmark here is the material 1.4462 (AISI 318LN).

Overview ISO anchor chain

d: Link diameter	t: inside length (mm)	b: Inside width (mm)	B: Outside width (mm)
6	18	8,1	21,6
7	21	9,45	25,2
8	24	10,8	28,8
10	30	13,5	36
12	36	16,2	43,2
14	42	18,9	50,4
16	48	21,6	57,6
18	54	24,3	64,8
20	60	27	72
22	66	29,7	79,2

DIN chain characteristics

d: Link diameter	t: inside length (mm)	b: Inside width (mm)	B: Outside width (mm)
6	18,5	7,2	20,4
7	22	8,4	23,8
8	24	9,6	27,2
10	28	12	36
11	31	13,2	40
13	36	15,6	47
14	41	16,8	50
16	45	19,2	58
18	50	21,6	65
20	56	21,6	72

Which anchor chain thickness should i have?

There are no legal guidelines on chain thickness, so responsibility here lies with the owner or skipper. You'll have to decide for yourself which is the best anchor chain for your boat. Many specifications and recommendations for skippers are based on safety guidelines issued by yacht associations or the Germanischer Lloyd (GL) classification society. From a purely economic point of view, an anchor chain should of course only ever be as thick as it needs to be. However, experienced boaters do tend to choose chains that are a little thicker, to be on the safe side in case of an emergency. The required chain link thickness is determined by the size of the vessel, i.e., the boat weight and the breaking load of the anchor chain, and varies depending on the chain material. Some specifications base the calculation of the breaking load of an anchor chain on the displacement of the boat, which corresponds to the boat weight in relation to its mass. The average breaking load value for ten-millimetre chain steel is about 80 Kn. The minimum breaking load according to DIN 766 is 4.0 t for a 10 mm round steel chain. The most common thickness for recreational boats is eight, ten and twelve millimetres. An alternative recommendation is provided by Germanischer Lloyd, which refers to the length of the ship (GL recommendation): up to 8 metres boat length = 6 millimetres chain steel, up to 10 metres = 8 millimetres, up to 12 metres = 10 millimetres, up to 14 metres = 12 millimetres and up to 16 metres = 13 millimetres. " You can't tell what loads an anchor chain can take by looking at it from the outside, so a new anchor chain should always have a test certificate from the manufacturer," recommends Dietbrecht, sailor and boating expert.

This is the only way you can be sure that the specified breaking load and gauge accuracy (i.e. exact adherence to the specified dimensions) is correct, and you won't be in for any nasty surprises when at anchor. The price of an anchor chain can vary considerably and depends on the design, quality and length you need. This can range from a few hundred to several thousand euros.

TIP: „Breaking loads on galvanised chains and Nirosta chains are the same. They just have different surface finishes. Hence the difference in price."

Anchor chain

Should i use Anchor line or anchor chain?

Because of its high tensile strength, many skippers prefer an anchor chain. But on dinghies, inflatable boats or small motor yachts (up to 1.5 t weight), you can use an anchor line and it does offer some advantages. Due to its light weight, an anchor line is easier to handle; moreover, the weight of an anchor chain will affect the trim and increase hobby-horsing if stowed in the bow. Furthermore, anchor lines can also have considerable breaking loads, about eight tonnes at 22 millimetres thick, and in adverse conditions with waves or wind they are actually superior to a chain because of their elasticity. Because the line is more flexible, it can absorb dynamic load peaks better, whereby an anchor chain would "jolt" hard. This jerking happens when a wave hits the bow while the chain is taught. The risk here is that the anchor could be ripped free from its hold, or anchor equipment, such as a windlass or cleat could become damaged.

From boat sizes with a weight of 1.5 t, the thickness of an anchor line should be at least twelve millimetres. 10-millimetre lines should be chosen for smaller boats as they are better to handle. Any thinner and lines can cut easily into the hand when being hauled in. The ideal material for an anchor line is nylon or polyester with square braid. Polyethylene lines are not suitable as anchor lines because they do not absorb water and tend to float as a result. Likewise, mooring lines are not suitable for use as anchor lines. Mooring lines must be UV resistant, flexible and have good stretch and abrasion resistance.

Anchor lines, on the other hand, should be relatively stretch-free, but still elastic enough to prevent jerking. Disadvantage of an anchor line: Unlike a chain, it does not self-stow in the chain locker when anchoring and because you need a longer length than a chain, it takes up more space. When using a line, it is essential to note that the swing circle is larger. When a ship is at anchor, it rarely stays fixed at one point: changes in wind conditions or current direction cause it to move in an arc around the anchor. The ship's movement around the anchored position is called the anchor swinging circle. It's important to make sure there are no obstacles within the circle. A wide range of variants available on the market also includes leaded anchor lines. These lines are mostly used with a second anchor.

Anchor lines & anchor line systems

What length of anchor chain or line do i need?

The vessel size, current and swell are all factors that can determine what length anchor chain you should choose. In general, the longer the anchor chain or anchor line, the better the anchor will hold. The angle of pull is important here, and it should not exceed eight degrees. For optimal mooring of a sailboat or a motor yacht, a chain length corresponding to 5 to 7 times the water depth is usually sufficient. If an anchor line is used instead of an anchor chain, a good rule of thumb is that the line length should be at least ten times the water depth.

What do I need a Chain fore-runner for

A chain fore-runner is recommended to be used with anchor lines on boats that are above a certain weight. A fore-runner chain is a length of anchor chain that pulls down the anchor shaft by its own weight, thereby increasing the static friction on the bottom and thus the effectiveness of the anchor. A chain fore-runner will also protect the anchor line from rubbing and sheathing on rocky seabed. From a boat weight of 1.5 t, a chain fore-runnner of three metres in length is sufficient according to GL recommendations. The German Sailing Association (KA), on the other hand, recommends a chain fore-runner of at least six metres in length.

Chain fore-runners

In some situations, an anchor weight on the chain fore-runner is useful. This extra weight is lowered down on a shackle on the anchor chain and does two things: Firstly, the anchor chain is held down to the ocean bed, so that more chain pulls along the surface on the bottom. And because boat swing is reduced, this is advantageous in crowded anchorages. Secondly, an anchor buddy is useful in strong winds, as it relieves pull on the anchor chain and can prevent the anchor from breaking free. Ropes are available from retailers and suppliers by the metre, but for chains usually only in thicknesses up to 13 millimetres, and above that only in so-called "chain lengths" of about 27 metres. The length of the anchor chain on board should be at least 70 to 120 metres, depending on the sailing area, and correspondingly more for an anchor line or combination of line and chain. Some boaters insist on spare rode consisting of anchor and chain. This can be useful in difficult conditions, but again requires storage space and adds weight on board. Normally, spare rode is not necessary if you check the condition of your chain on a regular basis.

Anchoring in tidal waters presents a particular challenge. Sufficient chain must be deployed to ensure that at least five times the water depth is still out at high tide. In addition, the larger swing circle must be taken into account at low tide.

It is advisable to attach an anchor chain to the anchor with a rotating shackle. This prevents the chain from twisting. The end of an anchor chain should be attached to the boat in the chain locker with a rope lashing or strong strop so that it can be easily cut in an emergency. Always shackle a line to the chain. Don't use a sailor's knot like an anchor bend - the knot won't hold reliably in the smooth, synthetic rope. In addition, each knot causes a weak point that reduces the breaking strength of the line by about half. Above a certain boat size, the use of an electric windlass is recommended because the anchor rode is simply too heavy. If the windlass fails, you can sail towards the anchor when retrieving, thus reducing the load. In fact, this is generally advised when using a windlass because it reduces strain on that piece of equipment.

As anchor lines are not very heavy, they can usually be hauled in by hand easily. However, some windlasses have a special capstan fitted to them for this purpose. On sailing yachts, an additional capstan on the foredeck is more likely to be a nuisance and, besides, there are usually enough winches there for hauling. Special care is not required for an anchor chain and can be used for several years, depending on how much wear it is subject to. Nevertheless, it won't hurt to rinse the anchor chain and chain locker with fresh water every now and then to clean.

TIP: If your boat is winterised on land, you must take out the entire chain, including the anchor. Just let your windlass run down and that’s it. This will prevent the chain from rotting away inside the damp and salty chain locker.

Accessories for anchor chains & anchor lines

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Anchoring Masterclass: How to Anchor like an Expert

Want to anchor with confidence and ease? Tom Fletcher shares some hard learnt charter skipper secrets for expert anchoring…

Tackling anchoring.

Have you ever had the Greek Gods of Anchoring displeased with you? I have. I once spent a week on charter with a wonderfully nice father and daughter, on board Sail Ionian’s brand-new Bavaria C50, and it was an absolute nightmare. What’s more, the yacht had just had a new 30kg Rocna fitted, so I couldn’t even blame the ground tackle! Everywhere I went that week I had to have three or four attempts at dropping before the anchor would catch. By the end, I was in tears with frustration, and still don’t know what I was doing wrong. The next time I took her out on charter I had no problems whatsoever.

In the Ionian we rely heavily on our anchor . It can make or break a week on charter so always make a point of checking what the yacht you’re booking is equipped with. Even for a 30-footer I wouldn’t want under 50m of chain. If I was being demanding, as a rule of thumb I would multiply the length of the boat in meters x5, to get the minimum number of meters of chain I would like.

Favoured anchor types will vary depending upon the type of seabed or the area you’re in. Designs like the Bruce or Fluke can be outstanding in sandy areas like the Caribbean. CQRs can be brilliant where tidal flow direction can change, as the design allows them to twist without breaking out. Even fisherman anchors or grapnels can be useful in rocky areas and riverbeds. However, my years of experience in the Ionian have taught me that a Rocna is the best you can get for varied types of seabeds. At Sail Ionian the whole fleet is retrofitted with Rocnas, or their sister the Vulcan which doesn’t have the roll bar.

Make sure your boat handover goes into detail on the windlass and where the trip switch or fuse is. You will want to know how to tighten the gypsy, and how to free drop the chain too. If you can test the windlass by dropping and raising chain, do so. It’s good to see if the windlass is slow or fast, whether it sounds healthy, and if there is any juddering or slipping (which is a good indication of a worn gypsy that should be replaced before you leave).

I have a real bugbear with skippers who don’t realise the importance of their crew on the bow. With a little training and explanation, they can be the yacht’s best asset when anchoring. I have lost count of the number of times I have started training a crew how to med moor , only to find that the bow person doesn’t have a clue what they are doing, and merely responds to shouted direction from the helm. I like to teach the bow person about techniques, types of seabeds, length of chain… all sorts. I guess some people aren’t that interested, but most seem to like to understand what they are doing!  A crew working together in this way is much more effective. When small problems arise, they can then be dealt with quickly. I like to teach some hand signals too, to stop the shouting over the noise of the windlass and the wind. A basic set of ‘drop’, ‘stop’, ‘up’ and ‘down’ are enough to deal with most needs. Knowledge of how to weigh anchor and control the chain when it’s coming in are invaluable too.

Don’t try to anchor on a steep declining seabed

This is one that is peculiar to deep water anchorages, of which we have many in the Ionian! It can be a common situation that you are trying to anchor near the shore, with the wind blowing the yacht off. However, because of the steepness of the seabed you have the bow in 5m of water but the stern in 10m of water! As you reverse and lay out chain the yacht is getting into progressively deeper and deeper water. The anchor just has no chance of holding as it is, in effect, being dragged down a hill. The moral of the story being to consider not just the material of the seabed, but also the bathymetry.

Deep water techniques

It is quite common on an Ionian charter that I will choose to anchor in well over 10 meters of water. The main constraints with depth are firstly the length of chain we carry, and secondly the strength of the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, a typical 40ft charter yacht will carry at least 60 meters of chain. Using the old maxim of 4-5 times the depth of water, we get a maximum anchoring depth range of around 12-15 meters. Our windlasses can deadlift a substantial weight, but when you consider the length of chain plus the anchor at the end, it is a considerable lift. We usually recommend to guests to always stick under 12 meters, much deeper than that and fuses can start blowing!

When dropping in these depths it is important to remember that it takes time for the anchor to hit the seabed. We often see people reversing as they drop, not realising by the time the anchor catches they can easily be 15-20 meters further away from where they intended the anchor to be. This can cause all sorts of complications, from changes in depth to distance from the shore for long lining. In fact, the most common issue this causes is when long lining; the yacht ends up much closer to the shore than intended, with much less chain out that desired! It’s easy to time your windlass over 10 meters of chain to get an idea how quick it is, then you know roughly how long it will take for the anchor to drop to the seabed.

I would advise positioning the bow where you want the anchor, then letting down 10m of chain, before starting to reverse into the wind, ensuring your anchor is where you want it.

Always look for clear water

The colour of the water is the first give-away of what sort of seabed you’re dealing with, and where in a bay you should drop the hook. A normal Ionian bay will have beautiful clear water and be a uniform mid blue, with patches of light blue. Those light blue patches are usually sandy, without any weed, and are a great spot to aim for. Firstly, you should explore the anchorage at slow speed, keeping one eye on the depth gauge and one eye on the water. Different parts of the bay may be windier that other too. Once you’ve picked your spot, look for those lighter patches of water and aim to get the bow over them. Here is another great example of where you need to reply on your crew on the bow. They will need to direct you to position the bow of the boat over the sand and drop the anchor there. Again, a little communication in terms of positioning and depth, or length of chain, is needed, so that you can get the anchor down on the sand before you start moving in reverse.

Wind directions & local knowledge

Considering wind direction is one of the first lessons to be taught about anchoring. It is, however, complicated by the fickle nature of the Ionian wind. At the mercy of island topography, katabatics, and even time of day, picking a spot that isn’t a lee shore can sometimes be harder than you think. Often a perfect lunchtime anchorage with a light offshore breeze can change to a lee shore once the temperature of the day increases and the afternoon anabatic winds start up.

The first time I saw local Greek charter skippers long lining off the beach in Marmagas on Ithaca I was confused. The morning breeze was light and blowing them onto the shore. I assumed their guests must have asked to be as close to the beach as possible. By the end of lunch though, the wind had switched to a feisty offshore 15 knots, gusting above 20, and my anchor was dragging into deeper water where I had dropped in the middle of the bay. Those Greek charter skippers were sitting comfortably, being blown off the beach, with the strain on their long lines, not on their anchor. It’s always worth keeping a humble eye on what other sailors are doing – there’s always someone cleverer than yourself! 

Free dropping chain vs. lowering on the windlass

As divisive an issue as any in sailing circles! Many who care for their own windlass much prefer to treat it carefully and drop chain freely, by loosening the gypsy, taking the strain away from the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, we always tell our guests to drop using the windlass though. We feel it gives guests more control, and there is less danger of fingers getting near fast moving lengths of chain. There is also a tendency for the gypsy not to be tightened enough after free dropping. This can result in slipping when weighing anchor, which in turn causes a lot of engineering call-outs and a large fuel bill for a very quick job of tightening the gypsy to the correct tension.

The most important time to consider dropping freely, and quickly, is when you are anchoring in a very windy situation. Sometimes you just want to get the anchor down fast and keep the boat under control using the engine. This can be particularly true for long lining or med mooring in a crosswind. Releasing the chain slowly on the windlass motor can slow the yacht to the point where you lose all steerage.

Whenever free dropping anchor, it is essential to check the bitter end is attached to the yacht securely, and to slow the rate of descent as you approach the end of the chain. Bitter ends are designed to separate when needed, and the speed and weight of a full chain locker dropped without braking can be enough to rip the bitter end d-ring from the deck. I have seen the confused look on faces as the end of the chain follows the anchor to the seabed. Another good reason to train your bow person well! If this ever happens to you, try and note your position in the bay, or hit the MOB button on the GPS quickly. If they know where to look the charter company may be able to dive and find the tackle, saving you a large bill.

Checking you’re well in

Finally, a lot of the issues I see out there could be avoided with a final check to test the anchor. I often see anchors dropped and engine off within seconds, with no attempt to test how well the anchor is dug in. I prefer to sit there with the engine running at least 1000 rpm in reverse for the 5 minutes it takes for the kettle to boil, before I’m happy to relax.

It is a fact of life in the Ionian that there is a lot of weed on the seabed and often anchors can get caught up in this, appear to have set, but break free after a persistent snatch. But this can also be the situation when you have a lot of chain out too. The weight of the chain alone can be enough to resist light winds, or low revs on the engine. It’s only with more force that it becomes clear the anchor is not actually in, and the boat starts drifting.

I have spent many a stormy Vliho night on the bow of an anchored yacht in over 30 knots of wind and not moved anywhere. A well dug in anchor can cope with a surprising amount of force. So don’t be shy with checking you’re set, give her some revs and sit back for a few minutes. You’ll sleep a lot better.

Tom Fletcher is a hugely experience skipper and instructor at Sail Ionian. For more information, go to the Sail Ionian Website .

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Types, Materials, and Maintenance Tips for Anchor Chains

Table of Contents

Anchor chains are crucial in keeping marine vessels in place, even in bad weather conditions. They offer a solid connection between the anchor and the ship. It won’t be wrong to say that they are pivots for the safe and tension-free stay of the vessel in the sea.

No one ignores their importance. However, many people don’t have a basic understanding of these chains of anchors. If you are one of those, fret not! This guide will explain all the ins & outs of anchor chains – from their types to maintenance. So, let’s get started!

What Are Anchor Chains?

Anchor chains are heavy-duty components of vessels’ anchorage systems that connect the anchor to the ship and ensure the boat stays in one place. The bad weather, wind, or any other external force fails to move the vessel from its position. 

When the ship is anchored, it moves slightly along with the wind. It could cause disturbance and instability. However, the anchor chains keep the vessel still even if the winds or tides exert force against the ship. That’s what the anchor chains are all about – keep the boat stable. 

Usually, the wind is a prominent issue that captains face when they stop the ship at any location. If the vessel uses rope for connection with the anchor, it would be hard for the ship to stay in one place. Wind will easily slide or drift away. 

That drift could result in an accident if more ships stopped together. However, the anchor chains are more vigorous and more powerful. They keep the boat intact in one place by overcoming external forces such as wind, waves, etc.

Importance of Anchor Chain

There are many benefits of using anchor chains over ropes. Many people believe the ropes (used for connecting anchor and ship) are as strong as the chain. That’s a myth – the chains are more powerful and resist external forces such as strong wind, storms, waves, etc.

The ropes may provide connection – but they don’t offer ideal resistance against the external forces. Here are some benefits of using the anchor chains with the vessels:

• Saves ship from colliding with other vessels
• Gives a stable experience even when the wind is out of control
• Keep the boat in one place and avoid its drifting
• Make the retrieval of Anchor very easy and smooth
• Strong to bear the external pressure due to its durable make.

The anchor chains are effective in saving the ships in the harshest weather. For example, when many ships are anchored close together using the combination chains, they remain still or stay with minimal movement.

However, If solid winds (like a storm) cause them to move slightly, the ships’ fenders are so good that they absorb minor shocks and prevent damage. If the wind is gentle to moderate, the ships won’t even move. Thanks to the chains that reduce the movement to very minimal movement.

Types of Anchor Chains

The good thing about the anchor chains is that they are available in various sizes, thicknesses, and types. It allows the users to choose according to the size of the ship and individual preferences. The big vessels use strong, long, and durable heavy-duty chains. 

On the flip side, the small ships and boats use lightweight and shorter anchor chains per their needs. Here are some common types of anchor chains:

• Stud Link Chains
• Open Link Chains
• Combination Chains
• Galvanized Anchor Chain
• Short link chains are suitable for small vessels

1- Stud Link Chains

The stud link chains have a protrusion (similar to a stud) that connects or interlocks with the links next to it. In this way, the whole chain is organized. The protrusion or stuff helps in making a durable chain.

You might need clarification about how the stud connects with the link. Each link in this type has a specific shape or opening where the stud easily fits. These continuous connections of links through studs make them super strong and unbendable chains.

It won’t be wrong to say that the stud link chains are the strongest among the other anchor chain types. They are typically used with the bigger ships that carry heavy loads.  

2- Open Link Chains

These anchor chains are different from the stud link chain as they don’t have any protrusion or stud. Instead, the links connect without any involvement of stud and make the series of connected loops.

As I said, there is no hard body such as a stud, etc., so these chains are flexible and move quickly. They can be changed into different shapes without any issue. Their flexibility makes them suitable for small ships.

You must remember that this type of anchor chain is not very strong and is less effective in keeping the ship in one place when there is a solid or heavy wind. They are suitable for smaller boats that are not heavy and don’t carry heavy loads.

3- Combination Chains

As the name suggests, this type of anchor chain is a combination of both stud link chains and open link chains. Some portion of these chains consists of the stud, and protrusion. This portion gives chains strength and rigidness.

The other portion of this type consists of connected loops without any stud and offers more flexibility. The good thing is that these chains are usable with smaller ships and bigger vessels, depending on their sizes. 

4- Galvanized Anchor Chain

This type of anchor chain is more durable and made to withstand the harshest outdoor conditions. The reason is that the manufacturers apply a zinc coating on these chains, protecting them from rust and other elements.

They are comparatively more expensive as compared to other types. They work just like any other anchor chain mentioned above. Its resistance to corrosion due to the coating makes it stand out. Only those ships use this chain type, which remains in the sea for months.

5- Short Link Chains

These ship anchor chains are slightly different and offer more strength and durability. The reason is that the loops are very close together. The gap between two loops or links is negligible. Unlike open link chains, they are not flexible. They are more rigid, which gives them solidness and strength to bear the pressure and other elements.

Point to Remember: These short link chains typically anchor smaller vessels or boats in one place. They are strong and can even keep the loaded small vessels in one position.

Materials that Make Chains of Anchor

It is noteworthy that different materials are used in making the chains. Those materials differ in terms of their strength, durability, and cost. Here are the most commonly used materials in making anchor chains:

• Galvanized Steel
• Stainless Steel 
• High-Tensile Steel

The aluminum material is usually used in inexpensive chains lasting two to three years. This material is lightweight but not very strong. Therefore, it is less prevalent in strong high-end anchor chains.

Galvanized steel is the most widely used material in making anchor chains. Galvanized steel is the one that has a coating of zinc on it. This coating is applied through the galvanization process and imparts corrosion resistance to the steel. The anchor chains made with this material are decently strong. 

Stainless steel is the most expensive material and is only used in premium anchor chains. It consists of chromium metal as an alloy that makes it rust-proof. The anchor chains made with this material are super expensive but offer peace of mind regarding durability.

Last, high-tensile steel is also used in making anchor chains. Its strength is in the middle of galvanized steel and stainless steel. Remember that the anchor chains made with different materials also have different prices.

Aluminum Chains	Less than 5 years
Galvanized Steel Chains	5-10 years
Stainless Steel Chains	15-20 years
High-Tensile Steel Chains	10-15 years

Maintenance Tips for Anchor Chains

In the section above, I have mentioned the lifespan of anchor chains made with different materials. However, the lifespan of the chains can be extended by taking care of them. Similarly, they will get damaged much earlier if you don’t care for them. 

Their proper maintenance is critical, making them stay with you for years. In the section below, I will give you some maintenance tips that will help you prolong the life of your anchor chains.

1- Regular Inspections

The first step is to inspect the anchor chains regularly. This inspection includes a complete checkup of every component of anchor chains. For example, you should look at every chain link or loop to ensure it is in good shape.

In the inspection process, if any part of the chain is getting rusty, take immediate steps, remove the rust, and apply lubricant or paint on it. It will help in minimizing the corrosion. If the corroded parts remain unchecked, they will become fragile, ultimately damaging the chain.

2- Figure Broken Link

The chains undergo high pressure and harsh weather conditions. The chances are high that some links or loops may get broken. If you find any link broken, repair it through welding or other methods.

The chain is a continuous connection of loops. If one loop gets broken, the whole series of loops will be affected, and the chain will be broken. You should pay attention to even the tiny cracks to ensure the chain remains in good shape.

3- Lubricate the Chains

Whether the chain has got rust or not, you should apply grease or any other lubricant on the whole chain. Using lubricants protects the chains from corrosion and the rust that could form over time.

If you have bought a new ship anchor chain, start lubricating it from day one. Do it every 2 weeks, and your chains won’t rust. Moreover, if the chain is already rusty, apply a layer of paint on it. It will stop the rust from growing further. 

4- Remove & Clean salt

The seawater is salty – and can make the chain rusty easily. Therefore, it is recommended that you remove the salty water from the chains when you arrive from the trip or tour. However, the question is how to remove the salty water from the chains.

You can easily do that by rinsing the freshwater with the help of a water pipe. The freshwater will remove all the salty water present on the chain. You won’t have to rub or apply detergent to remove the salt. Simply rinsing fresh water is good enough. 

5- Monitor Anchor Locker

Lockers are the storage area or compartment on the ship. When the anchor chains are not in use, they are placed there. However, it is essential to clean the locker compartment. If there is any moisture, it must be cleaned or removed.

If moisture is present in the locker and you place your chain there, the chances are high that it will get rusty due to the moisture present in the locker. Therefore, monitoring and proper cleaning of the locker is essential.

How to Store Marine Anchor Chain Properly?

The anchor chains can quickly get rust if they make any contact with moisture. Storing them in dry places is essential to avoid their connection with humidity. However, there is no hard, fast rule about where to store.

The vessels come with anchor lockers. These lockers are specialized portions or compartments where the chains are stored. However, cleaning the locker entirely before storing the chains there is mandatory. It will help in removing the moisture.

However, if the chains are not in work, you should find a place that is dry, and is away from the moisture. Store the chains and cover them with a big sheet so the humidity does not reach the anchor chains.

When to Change Your Anchor Chain?

The answer is: It depends! Many factors influence the lifespan and quality of the anchor chains. The regular inspection will help you know whether you should change the anchor chains.

Ideal, change the anchor chain if: 

• You notice massive wear and tear (extending to many loops and links)
• You notice severe rust that has weakened the loops
• You weld any broken part, and it gets broken again (indicating the chains’ degradation.

If the chain is 15 years old, consider changing whether it is in good shape. It will ensure the safety of your vessels. However, if the chain is made from stainless steel, you can keep the chain for up to 20 years.

Warning: If you have an aluminum chain, use it for 4 to 5 years. The reason is that this material needs to be stronger and offer the required durability.

Anchor chains are a must-have for ships. Their functionality helps keep the vessel still in the sea, even in the stormy wind. However, it is vital to have a check on them to ensure that they remain with you for the years to come. 

In this article, I have explained the types, materials, and maintenance tips for those who don’t know much about the chains and their safety. Hopefully, efforts to put this guide up will prove to be helpful for the masses.

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Anchoring & Mooring

With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's anchoring system is no place to cut corners. your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter..

Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a great deal of wind resistance need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to anchor in open waters.

Although not required by Federal Law, it is recommended you carry one anchor of sufficient size and strength to hold your boat for an extended period, like overnight--or in an emergency situation, such as if you run out of gas. When you are thinking or buying an anchor - BIGGER IS BETTER.

Also, there is safety in numbers. No anchor will work for you in every situation, so if you have space carry two anchors--preferably of different types.Many people choose to carry a small anchor, or "lunch hook", and a larger working or storm anchor. The lunch hook is for use in calm weather and when the crew is monitoring the anchor. Working and storm anchors are useful at times when the crew is asleep or ashore, and during heavy weather, when winds are 30 miles an hour and over.

The general name for all of the equipment you need to anchor your boat is "ground tackle". This includes an anchor, chain, line and connecting elements. The anchor line, including chain, is called the rode.

Playing Hooky

Just as boats come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, so do anchors. Choosing an anchor is easy, choosing the right one for your boat can be very difficult. Your first task in choosing an anchor is to have an understanding of three things:

• Your Boat - Your boats' size, weight and design characteristics affect what kind of anchor you will need to use. For instance, a 30 foot 10,000 pound houseboat needs a larger anchor than a 30 foot 6000 pound speedboat.
• Where You're Going - Where you plan to anchor often dictates what type of anchor you should use. Is the bottom rock, or is it soft mud? If you are not familiar with the area, ask around or look at a local chart.
• Local Conditions - Anchoring in a calm protected cove can be quite different than anchoring offshore or on a large open bay. And don't forget the weather--high winds, tides and waves can all make anchoring difficult, if not impossible.

Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight. Keep in mind that a 10,000 pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred pounds on a calm day, but may need 1,000 pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.

Anchor Types

There are several types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat.

Lightweight or "Danforth" Anchors

Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2.5 pounds to nearly 200 pounds, and are generally made of cast galvanized metal, though some models are machined from a light-weight aluminum composite. When dropped, flukes dig the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.

Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can easily dig into the bottom.

Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off.

Kedge or Navy Anchors

A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock. Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand, where flukes can't dig in.

Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into bottom and one lies exposed. Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook.

Grapnels Anchors

Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar, others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring. Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats.

Plow or "CQR/DELTA" Anchors

The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a top choice of cruising boaters. Has either a fixed (Delta style) or a pivoting (CQR) shank.

When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position.

Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.

Claw or "BRUCE" Anchors

Unique shape of the claw allows a 360 degree turn without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors,at a lower weight.

Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors get their name from, as you might imagine, their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings, and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.

The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats. Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks".

Line and Gear

Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.

Nylon Line in Three-Strand Twist

Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a horizontal pull on the anchor to set it.

Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line. Lines generally come in a "soft" or "medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing. Tightly wrapped lines are the best choice for anchoring.

Lines that have been treated with a wax-like coating are available. These lines help the line resist water/salt absorption. To help keep your lines in good shape, clean them from time to time by soaking them in soapy water. Never use bleach, as it can break down the line.

Chain may be used instead of nylon line for anchoring. Chain has several benefits, including added weight, chafe and wear resistance, and high strength. It also lowers the angle of pull on the anchor, which helps it to set more firn\mly into the bottom.

Chain is generally found made of galvanized steel, though you can find stainless steel and vinyl coated chain, which is designed to be non-marring to your deck.

Chain comes in three general varieties: "Proof Coil" is the most common, and is adequate for most marine uses. "BBB" ("Triple B" or "3B") chain has thicker, shorter links than proof chain. BBB is slightly stronger than proof chain, and is generally used for windlasses. Finally, "Hi-Test" chain is made of hardened steel, and is stronger and lighter than proof coil. Hi-test chain is favored by those wishing to avoid carrying too much weight.

Combination anchor-rodes consist of both chain and nylon line. You may buy a combination rode, or you may make one yourself. Generally, it is recommended to have either one foot of chain for each foot of boat length, or to have one pound of chain for each pound of anchor length. Which ever method you choose, having more chain than necessary is never a bad idea.

As the saying goes, a chain is only as strong as its' weakest link...Make sure that your anchor and line are attached to each other with adequate gear. Some lines come with plastic thimbles or eyes--but metal, either marine-grade stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized steel, is best. Swivels and shackles should be inspected regularly for wear, and to ensure that the connections are tight and functional.

Scope: Length of the anchor line/ height of the deck cleat to the sea bed.

Before leaving the dock, you will need to determine how much anchor line, or "rode", you will need. It is recommended that you use a scope of 7:1, meaning that for every foot of water depth, you should use 7 feet of rode.

For example, to anchor in 10 feet of water, you would pay out 70 feet of line. Measure the scope as the ratio of the length of the anchor rode to the height of the bow above the bottom. If you're using a lightweight anchor on a small boat in good weather conditions, a shorter scope of 5:1 is sufficient and safe. A prudent boater always has extra line and chain on hand, just in case.

Minimum Working Rode Sizes

Suggested holding sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from high seas.

Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with shorter rode lengths. As the wind picks up, deploying additional line will help maintain position, as will tossing out an extra anchor.

Setting Anchor

Anchoring can be accomplished quickly and easily by following a few simple steps.

• Check your chart for bottom characteristics and to determine that you are anchoring in a safe and allowable place. If there are rocks, shoals, reefs or other boats to consider, give them all as wide a berth as possible. Remember that other boats will often have different requirements for anchor rode length--larger or taller boats frequently need a great deal of rode. Also, keep in mind a possible swing of 360 degrees about the anchor with wind shifts or current changes.
• If your crew is not already wearing PFDs, have them put one on before going forward to set or retrieve an anchor or mooring.
• Secure the bitter end of the anchor line to a bow cleat. Make sure the line is ready to run free once tossed overboard.
• Head into the wind or current. Reduce speed and reverse the engine. When the boat starts to make a slight sternway through the water, lower - do not throw - the anchor.
• After you've let about a third of your line out, tug the anchor line to see how firmly it's set, and then continue to release the rode.
• Once you let out an appropriate amount of scope, make sure the line is properly tied off on the bow cleat.
• Even if anchoring only in designated anchoring areas, it is always prudent to have the appropriate signal such as an all-around white light on to notify other boats that you are anchored at night. During the day you must display a ball shape which is sized according to the size of your boat.

Staying Put

It's a good idea to take two immediate bearings. Select two items, one off each beam, that form a natural range and watch for any changes in their relationship. You can check these later to determine if you're boat is swinging as expected or if you're dragging anchor.

Picking Up a Mooring

One of the best ways to avoid the hassles of anchoring is to chose a cove or harbor with moorings available for your use. Mooring balls are identified by their white spherical or can shape, and having a blue horizontal band. It may have a number designation, a VHF contact # or name on it. You will typically have to pay a small fee to the harbor master to use a public mooring, but you can count on it being far cheaper than paying for dockage for the night.

Public moorings are professionally maintained and will use a large anchor or helix screw fixture to maintain position. The harbor master will let you know if the weight or length of your boat is too big for that particular mooring. Although moorings are typically more secure than anchors, moorings can and do periodically give way. For this reason, and for the obvious courtesy reasons, you should never pick up and use a mooring that does not belong to you.

Common Anchoring Mistakes

• Letting the anchor go with out securing the line to the boat.
• Letting the anchor go with your foot wrapped in the anchor line.
• Poor communication between the captain and person on the foredeck.
• Approach a mooring from downwind. This will give you better maneuverability as you go to secure your boat to the ball.
• Go slow, so as not to disturb those already moored.
• After putting on PFDs, send a crew member to the bow with a boat hook to grab the eye or the base of the mooring ball.
• Once the mooring ball is at the bow--slow, stop or gently reverse engines to halt forward motion. Use your crew to relay distance information if it is difficult for the skipper to see where the mooring ball is in relation to the boat.
• Loop the mooring line over one or both of your bow cleats. Pay attention to the possibility of chafing. You may want to use your own line to attach to the mooring ball if the one provided is dirty.
• Some moorings may have an antenna like device called 'whip.' This is simply an extension of the ball so you don't have to reach as far to haul in the mooring line.
• Once secure, let the boat drift back and be sure that you are clear of those who have moored or anchored around you. There is no need to 'back down' on a mooring ball.
• Leaving a mooring is easy--just motor or pull up gently to the ball and release the mooring line from your boat. You can then either drift back or maneuver forward to clear yourself of the ball and the associated ground tackle.

Finally, never ever anchor a small boat by the stern! Your engine, and the bulk of the boat's weight rest here. Stern anchoring is likely to result in swamping and flooding.

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Making Sense of Marine Chain Standards

Chain is made from wire. The cross-sectional area and strength of the wire determines the strength of the chain. The weld of each link should be stronger than the wire, so if a chain breaks, it should break in the body (wire)-usually at the crown, or the curve in the link-not the weld.

The grade numbers commonly used to denote the strength of chain are numerically one-hundredth or one-tenth of the strength of the wire expressed in megapascals (MPa). So, a G3 or G30 chain is made from a wire with a minimum breaking strength of 300 megapascals (or 300 Newtons per square millimeter). Also known as Grade L, G30 chain has similar characteristics to BBB, the short link chain commonly used in anchor rodes.

The most common chain grades used for anchor rodes on recreational boats are G30, G40, G43, and G70. Chain marked as G30, G40, or G43 is made from carbon, or mild, steel. Chains denoted as G70 are heat-treated steel, commonly quenched and tempered (the same process used for some anchor shanks).

Quench and tempered steels are made to specific chemical tolerances, as determined by manufacturer. The tempering temperature fixes the strength of the steel. If some post-manufacturing process, such as galvanizing, raises the chains temperature to the one used for tempering, then the chain is weakened.

Although you can galvanize the high-strength, tempered steel used in G70 chain, tempered steel should never be re-galvanized-a major drawback for anyone who plans to extend the life of their chain by re-galvanizing it. Although there are higher-strength chains- G80, G100, and more recently G120-galvanized versions of this chain are either non-existent or too new for us to recommend.

A confusing array of names applies to the same or similar chains. Some examples: G43 sometimes goes by High Test, HT, or HT4; G70 is often called transport or trawl chain. One useful term is proof test; this means the very chain you are buying has been tested to about twice its working load limit, or about half of the breaking load. In Europe, the two common grades are DIN 766 and ISO4565, the equivalent of G30.

Often, the limiting factor for choosing a chain is the gypsy or wildcat on your boats windlass. Gypsies are sized to fit the pitch (inside opening) of the chain. There are at least four different gypsy types on the market. In the U.S., many gypsies fit short-link BBB size, but gypsies for longer-pitch G30 and G43 chain are also common. Peerless G70 (under its Acco brand) is a not the same size as a G43 chain.

Even Europe, with its quest for manufacturing uniformity, has 10-millimeter chains with different pitches. The bottom line: Test the chain size under load in the gypsy before buying a full length. You might have to buy a 6-foot length to do this test, but some chain retailers will let you have a test sample.

Working Load and Tensile Stress

The working load limit (WLL) is the maximum load-uniformly in direct tension-that should be applied to a chain. This is a percentage of the tensile stress (TS) or minimum breaking stress (MBS). Although manufacturers use mathematical formulas to determine the WLL and TS/MBS of their chains, the formulas are supported by actual testing done by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) and/or by the National Association of Chain Makers (NACM). The latter group has six members, two of which, Peerless and Campbell, sell short-link, galvanized marine windlass chain. Finally, there is ultimate tensile stress, or the actual breaking load, and this should always be higher than the minimum TS or MBS.

The working load limit is determined by the safety factor that each manufacturer applies to the minimum tensile strength. In the U.S., the ratio of minimum tensile strength to working load limit is 4:1 for G70 and G30 (G80 and G100) chain, and its 3:1 for G40 and G43 chain. In Europe and Australia, a safety factor of 4:1 is used for all grades, although the Italian company Maggi uses a more conservative 5:1 ratio for its G40 and G70 chain.

Surprisingly, West Marine uses a less-conservative 3:1 safety factor for its G70, giving it a very impressive working load-even though its minimum tensile strength is no greater than that of other G70 chains.

The lesson here? Looking only at published working load limits can lead to mistaken assumptions regarding a chains strength.

In our opinion, a minimum 4:1 ratio should be used across the board for windlass chain, and retailers such as West Marine shouldnt be using the 3:1 safety factor for some stock, which only confuses the buyer.

The best way to compare chain is to compare the minimum tensile strength: A 5/16-inch G30 will be 7,600 pounds; and a G40/G43 chain will be 11,600 pounds.

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Anchor-Man Stainless Steel Boat Anchor Chain, Marine Grade, High Break Load with 2 Advanced Stainless Steel Shackles Boat Chains, 2 Sizes (L-7ft x D-5/16 || (L-5ft x D-1/4)

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L-7ft x D-5/16"

Purchase options and add-ons

• 𝐇𝐞𝐚𝐯𝐲-𝐃𝐮𝐭𝐲 𝐂𝐨𝐧𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐮𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧: Our boat anchor chain is premium 316 stainless steel in 1/4" and 5/16" diameters, available in 5' and 7' lengths, provide superior durability and corrosion resistance, outperforming PVC coated options.
• 𝐒𝐞𝐜𝐮𝐫𝐞 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐑𝐞𝐥𝐢𝐚𝐛𝐥𝐞: Double-threaded stainless anchor chain bow shackle pins with a unique locking ring prevent loosening, ensuring your anchor stays secure with a minimum shackle break load of 7,600 lbs.
• 𝐄𝐧𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐜𝐞𝐝 𝐏𝐞𝐫𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐦𝐚𝐧𝐜𝐞: Designed to protect anchor lines from chafing and provide a better pull angle, these stainless steel anchor chain enhance abrasion resistance and keep your anchor shank parallel to the seafloor for optimal hold.
• 𝐕𝐞𝐫𝐬𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐥𝐞 𝐀𝐩𝐩𝐥𝐢𝐜𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧: Suitable for all boat types, from PWCs to large fishing boats, these chains ensure effective and secure anchoring for various marine applications.
• 𝐂𝐨𝐦𝐦𝐢𝐭𝐦𝐞𝐧𝐭 𝐭𝐨 𝐐𝐮𝐚𝐥𝐢𝐭𝐲: Anchor-Man is dedicated to delivering high-quality, affordable marine accessories and boat anchor accessories, OEM replacement parts, backed by a team of boating enthusiasts committed to customer satisfaction.

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Premium 316 Stainless Steel

Designed with 316 marine grade stainless steel, it maintains high breaking strength and can last for a long time even in salt water.

Work for Different Anchors

Anchor lead chains improve anchor efficiency

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Product Description

316 Marine Grade Stainless Steel Anchor Chains for Boats

Crafted from 316 Marine Grade Stainless Steel, our 1/4" and 5/16" diameters of 5' and 7' anchor chains for boats ensure durability and corrosion resistance for long-lasting marine use.

Choose the perfect fit for your boat - available in 1/4" x 5' and 5/16" x 7' options, providing flexibility for various applications. Whether you need a 5-foot lead or a 7-foot length, our chains offer the perfect dimensions for anchor rode and chain setups. These 316 stainless steel heavy chains are for lifting up small top large-sized anchors for all kinds of boats including PWCs, Fishing boats, Jon boats, and many more.	This galvanized anchor lead chain is a critical element in constructing efficient and effective ground tackle. Hot dipped galvanized 5/16 inch shackles allow for easy attachment to anchor and preferred anchor line. Two standard threaded shackles attached, are strong and easy to use with rode or ropes. Two anchor swivel shackles attached provide the opportunity to attach the anchor or rope.	The included 3/8" US Bow Type Shackles enhance marine safety, providing a robust connection point for your anchor system. These marine safety chains are made from the best anti-corrosion steel material that outlasts all other PVC-coated boat anchor chain materials in the market. Our stainless steel anchor chain exhibits high strength, rigidity, and good heat or cold resistance. Premium Boat Anchor Chain Work With Different Anchors.

1/4" x 5' Anchor Chain

• 316 Marine Grade Stainless Steel
• Chain Break Load: 6,744 lbs.
• Shackles Break Load: 8,267 lbs.
• 1/4 in Diameter & 5 Feet Long
• 5/16 in Diameter US Bow Type Shackles on Both Ends

5/16" x 7' Anchor Chain

• Chain Break Load: 8,992 lbs.
• Shackles Break Load: 11,023 lbs.
• 5/16 in Diameter & 7 Feet Long
• 3/8 in Diameter US Bow Type Shackles on Both Ends

Premium Boat Anchor Chain Work With Different Anchors

Our stainless anchor chains are well-made with stable and firm structures. Equipped with 5/16" US Bow Type Shackles on both ends, ensuring a tight and secure attachment for your marine safety. Designed for seamless use with rode or ropes, these chains provide an effortless solution for anchoring your boat securely. These reliable marine anchor chains for boats can be used with almost all boat anchors such as claw anchors, box anchors, fluke anchors, and more.

Customer Reviews
Price	$79.99$79.99	$89.99$89.99	$109.99$109.99	$97.99$97.99	$99.99$99.99
Item Weight	13 Lbs	19 Lbs	25 Lbs	8.5 Lbs	13 Lbs
Color	Silver	Silver	Silver	✓	✓
For Boats	Upto 23 Foot	Upto 32 Foot	Upto 40 Foot	✓	✓
Package Weight	14 lbs	19.45 lbs	26.75 lbs	18.46 lbs	27 lbs

Customer Reviews
Price	$50.99$50.99	$56.99$56.99	—	$32.99$32.99	—
Item Weight	6.6 Lbs	9.6 Lbs	42.9 Lbs	1.12 lbs	1.42 lbs
Material	Hot Dipped Galvanized Tube	Hot Dipped Galvanized Tube	Hot Dipped Galvanized Tube	PVC	PVC
Color	✓	✓	✓	‎Black	‎Black

Product information

Technical details.

Item Package Dimensions L x W x H	‎7.5 x 7 x 3.5 inches
Package Weight	‎1.5 Kilograms
Brand Name	‎Anchor-Man
Warranty Description	‎1
Model Name	‎Stainless Steel Boat Anchor Chain
Color	‎Stainless Steel
Material	‎Stainless Steel
Suggested Users	‎unisex-adult
Manufacturer	‎Anchor-Man
Style	‎L-5ft x D-1/4"
Included Components	‎Stainless Steel Boat Anchor Chain

Additional Information

ASIN	B0BR7LP8WW
Customer Reviews	4.3 out of 5 stars
Best Sellers Rank	#82,522 in Sports & Outdoors ( ) #90 in
Date First Available	December 28, 2022

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Anchor-Man Marine Grade Stainless Steel Anchor Chain 5ft 7ft

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Clearance LIROS Racer Dyneema £55.08

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Mooring Clearance

Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance.

Look around any marina, harbour, or anchorage, and you will find various methods employed to join a yacht’s anchor to the anchor rode.

There is no right or wrong way to attach the two, but there are some general principles to follow which should lead to a successful conclusion.

Applying the following principles to the decision-making process should lead to the optimum setup of any individual anchoring system.

How to choose the correct anchor shackles and connectors for your yacht or boat and how to fit them together in the proper manner.

Galvanised or Stainless Steel

Generally speaking, avoiding contact between dissimilar metals is better because of the eventual corrosive reaction. Still, the widespread use of stainless steel connections on galvanised anchor systems indicates that the deterioration is either very slow or manageable.

Therefore, with the proper precautions, a combination of the two metals is acceptable where required - read more on Dissimilar Metals

The decision for stainless steel anchors and chain is relatively straightforward - use stainless steel fittings to join the two together. There is a wide range of different makes and models to suit all budgets - Purchase Anchor Connectors

For galvanised anchors and chain, a galvanised connection is a natural choice. However, the options available are realistically limited to shackles only - Purchase Anchoring Shackles

Galvanised Dee and Bow shape shackles generally feature a protruding head with a hole drilled through it for a. Tightening and b. Securing the pin. It is worth noting that any protrusion may cause snagging or jamming through the stem head roller. Flush-fitting pins are mostly found on stainless steel shackles.

Correct Alignment of Load Bearing Surfaces

Spread the load by matching the length and shape of the two bearing surfaces as closely as possible, e.g. a round pin in a snug round hole with both parts the same length. Avoid pinpoint loads.

Providing Articulation

There is always the possibility of an ‘awkward’ force being exerted on the anchor shank and the connection to the anchor chain when the wind shifts or the tidal set reverses. The issue may be compounded when the anchor is retrieved, i.e. not a straight pull. Therefore, the anchor connection must be capable of coping with a wrench from any direction.

Allowing or Encouraging Rotation

An anchor will not successfully dock into the stem head fitting if it is facing up the wrong way. An anchor swivel connector will allow the anchor to rotate as it approaches the bow roller. Some connectors are designed to actively twist or flip the anchor into the correct plane for re-entry.

Strength and Quality

Components that are rated with a manufacturer-minimum break load will provide reassurance. The integrity of any anchor system can be compromised by one weak link. The working life of each part will depend on the quality of the base metal and the finish. Steel should be a minimum grade 40 and treated with hot dip galvanising. N.B. Electroplating will not last very long in a marine environment. Stainless steel should be a minimum grade 3 marine quality A316.

Good Practice

Couple shackles together ‘back to back', i.e. with the two crowns bearing against one another.

Fit the largest diameter pin possible through the end link of the chain for the strongest possible joint.

Fit the largest, shortest pin possible through any ‘square cut’ hole, e.g. the slot in some anchor shanks.

Use the more open-rounded shape of bow shackles to allow more freedom of movement (articulation) where required.

Use D shackles to achieve a narrower fitting, especially those with a flush head to the pin.

You can take advantage of the oversized bow shackles that are factory fitted to some anchor brands, e.g. CQR. These shackles often feature a flush pin head with the thread permanently welded.

Unilateral Movement

Fit a connector that provides for flip, twist, swivel, and articulation - all in one design, if possible, e.g. Ultra Flip Swivel

The Dee shackle in this example appears superfluous - this type of connector provides for rotation and lateral loading but is not readily available with a manufacturer-guaranteed breaking strain.

This shackle is not correctly aligned on the anchor slot but is oversized to compensate and facilitates unilateral movement in the correct location. The Osculati Twist Connector has a long banana-shaped body to flip the anchor into the correct position for docking on the stem head and incorporates a swivel for rotation.

Introduce three links of anchor chain between a standard swivel, e.g. a Kong design and the anchor. This ensures articulation between the anchor and the swivel, preventing lateral loading.  Buy 3 Links Of Anchor Chain

Use a Maillon Rapide (Chain Repair Link) - see Pros and Cons listed below the picture.

Pros: a good quality threaded chain repair link, e.g. Maillon Rapide link, can be as strong as the same size chain. This connection offers a streamlined attachment with no snagging and a sympathetic load-bearing surface to the end link in the chain or the anchor connector pin.

Cons: the thread may require a little filing to fit through a calibrated chain - it requires a thread-locking compound because seizing is impossible - in the picture above, it does not allow lateral movement on the anchor connector.

Bad Practice

Joining shackles together ‘pin to pin’ will result in the bearing edges sliding from side to side.

Fitting the crown of a shackle through a ‘square cut’ hole so that the shackle bears on two unsympathetic stress points.

Freedom of Movement

Joining an anchor connector directly to the anchor shank with no freedom of lateral movement is not recommended.

This method is prevalent and looks very neat, but there is a strong possibility that, at some point, it will result in some damage or even failure when the anchor is trapped on the seabed.

Anchor swivel connector with no articulation - the extra shackle on the chain seems superfluous.

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Trusted by the Owners of the World’s Best Superyachts

We have been fabricating anchors for the world’s best shipyards for over 40 years. Across the globe you will find submarine anchors, traditional kedge and plough anchors and flush-fitting hiding anchors keeping superyachts safe while at anchor.

Manson Anchors make seven large anchors and also design and build custom anchors. These anchors are available up to 4,300kg and can be certified to all class societies.

Often our customers choose to also partner with our sister company  Bowmaster  for the design and build of their anchoring deployment systems.

Send us a quick message below and one of our specialist engineers will be in touch to discuss options and share their expert opinion on what solution is best for your project.

Superyacht Anchor Range

Submarine Anchor (HHP)

100 - 3250 kg

Hiding Anchor (HHP)

20 - 3250 kg

Kedge Anchor (HHP)

50 - 4500 kg

Ultimus Anchor (HHP)

50 - 4300 kg

Plough Anchor (HHP)

5 - 5000 kg

Ray Anchor (HHP)

5 - 3425 kg

Hulk Anchor (SHHP)

50 - 817 kg

Custom Anchor

Featured superyacht anchor projects, luerssen – my tis.

Echo Yachts

Echo yachts – my white rabbit golf, delta yachts, delta yachts – my laurel.

Why partner with Manson Anchors?

Global Leaders

We are the global experts in anchoring. We’ve been making anchors since 1972 and as specialists we have a proven history of designing and manufacturing innovative, reliable, robust and certified equipment, delivered to the best shipyards around the world. 

We have an extensive record of satisfied clients and completed projects in the Military, Commercial, Superyacht, Power Boat and Sailing Yacht sectors. Browse our case studies and see for yourself. 

Superyacht Class Certification

All our large anchors, except our SHHP Supreme and SHHP Hulk models are class approved as HHP, and can be certified to all major classification societies (Lloyd’s Register, GL, ABS, DNV and RINA). If you are after a one-off custom designed anchor for your project we can work with you on this and ensure it is class approved. Anchors are available in galvanized execution, built from Lloyd’s Register minimum Grade A steel, and in mirror polished and glass bead blasted stainless steel from either 316L (1.4404) or SAF2205 (1.4462) material grades.

Custom Design

Just as a superyacht is a designer vessel, our anchors too can be custom designed to complement the boat. Our design team can provide CAD drawings of your anchor and advice on specific anchoring deployment systems or stowage arrangements. Our approach is always collaborative. We work with you, as part of your team.   Collectively we design and build innovative working solutions that are shaping the future of the marine industry.

We are trusted to make anchors for some of the leading shipyards in the world who      build luxurious superyachts and sophisticated defense vessels.  Everything is designed and fabricated under one roof – ensuring best quality control at all stages of the design and build process. Many of the world’s top vessel designers and captains specify a Manson Anchor because they can trust it to protect the vessel, its owners, crew and guests.

Global Leaders in Anchor Deployment

For the complete anchoring solution many of our customers choose to partner with our sister company Bowmaster. Bowmaster is recognized as the global leader in anchor deployment systems. We have an extensive record of satisfied clients and completed projects in the Military, Commercial, Superyacht, Power Boat and Sailing Yacht sectors. It pays to have experts like Bowmaster on your side.

5 key benefits of using a snubber and how to install it on a charter boat

• 5 benefits of using a snubber and how to install it on a charter boat

Are you confident when it comes to anchoring your boat?  In popular sailing destinations like Greece, anchoring is often a necessity due to limited marina space. But there’s no need to feel apprehensive — as long as you follow proper procedures and safety protocols, anchoring can be simple and straightforward. Experienced sailors know that anchoring cannot be done without the use of a snubber. So, if you’re not using one yet, here are five reasons that might convince you to start.

1. More comfort at anchor

A snubber greatly enhances comfort while anchored by absorbing the shocks caused by wind and waves. Without a snubber, the boat can experience sudden, jerky movements as the anchor chain tightens. The elasticity of the snubber acts as a shock absorber , distributing the impact of these external forces more evenly, reducing strain, and making your time at anchor far more pleasant.

YACHTING.COM TIP:  If you really want to learn the ropes, check out our complete guide to the  types of ropes you can find on a boat .  

2. Protecting the anchor windlass

Your anchor windlass is a crucial piece of equipment that you want to keep in good working condition, especially on charter boats where wear and tear are unknown. When the full weight of the boat rests on the windlass — particularly in rough weather — it can easily become overloaded. A snubber helps by transferring the load from the windlass to the boat’s cleats , which are designed to handle high stress. This reduces strain on the windlass, extends its lifespan , and lowers the risk of accidental chain release or motor failure.

3. Anchor chain protection

A snubber not only protects the windlass but also relieves the anchor chain by reducing direct strain. This extends the chain's lifespan and minimizes the risk of damage or breakage, especially in challenging conditions. By absorbing the load that would otherwise be placed on the chain, the snubber prevents wear and tear, ensuring your anchor system remains reliable and secure, even in rough weather.

Check out more sailing tips:

4. peace and quiet on board.

One often overlooked advantage of using a snubber is the significant reduction in noise . Without it, the anchor chain can create loud, unpleasant sounds as it grates or rubs against the boat or seabed, especially in windy conditions. This can be particularly disturbing at night when you’re trying to sleep or relax. A snubber dampens these noises by absorbing the tension in the chain, contributing to a much calmer and quieter atmosphere on board.

5. Show off your expertise

Using a snubber is a clear sign of an experienced and responsible sailor . It shows that you take mooring seriously and that you understand the importance of properly securing your boat. Fellow boaters will notice your professionalism, and you’ll gain confidence, knowing you’ve taken the right steps for a safe and efficient anchoring setup. 

Keep an eye out on your next voyage and see how many boats you see without a snubber.

How to use a snubber on a charter boat

Using a snubber on a charter boat is simple, even without a dedicated chain hook. Follow these tips for easy setup:

Bring your own chain hook

Charter boats typically don’t come with a chain hook, so it’s a good idea to bring your own. Ensure that it fits the chain size, which is usually 8 mm or 10 mm on charter boats. A chain hook makes attaching the snubber both the easiest and most secure option.

One possible type of chain hook.

Do you have a chain hook? Try a shackle or carabiner

If you don’t have a chain hook, you can use a shackle or a carabiner. Be cautious with carabiners, as they can twist under load, making them difficult to remove. A shackle tends to be more reliable. If neither option is available, using the right knot can be just as effective.

Consider the good old rolling hitch knot

A tried-and-true method for attaching the snubber is the rolling hitch knot. This knot securely grips the anchor chain and won’t slip, even under heavy load. Learning to tie this knot is a valuable skill that ensures a secure connection and peace of mind while anchored.

Rolling hitch

YACHTING.COM TIP: Tying knots is a part of sailing. Learn how to tie these  9 essential sailing knots .  

Choosing the right rope for snubber

The snubber rope should be at least 5 metres long and made from flexible, non-floating material  such as nylon, which has the elasticity needed to absorb shock. The rope’s thickness should be based on the weight of your boat. For instance, an 8 mm rope is generally sufficient for boats weighing up to 4.5 tonnes under normal conditions.

While any snubber is better than none, selecting the right one can significantly improve safety and comfort at anchor. Even if a snubber fails, the mooring system will continue to hold the boat, though not as efficiently.

YACHTING.COM TIP: For a refresher on different types of anchors and proper anchoring techniques, check out our complete guide to anchoring and moorings .

Installing a snubber on a sailboat step-by-step

Once you’ve found a suitable bay and successfully anchored, follow these steps to properly install a snubber.

Step 1 : Attach the snubber to the anchor chain

A) If you have a chain hook : Tie the chain hook to the centre of the snubber rope using a double fisherman’s knot, ensuring the hook is securely attached. This allows you to easily clip the hook onto the anchor chain.

B)   If you don’t have a chain hook : Use a rolling hitch knot to tie the centre of the snubber rope directly to the anchor chain. If the chain passes through the bow roller, you can tie the snubber at the anchor gate. Alternatively, if necessary, you may need to lean over the bow and tie the knot onto the hanging chain. 

The process of attaching the snubber to the anchor chain.

Chain hook attached to anchor chain above anchor well.

Step 2: Secure the snubber to the cleats

Run both ends of the snubber rope outside the boat and secure them to the cleats where you usually tie the mooring lines. Ensure that the total length of the snubber, from one cleat, through the anchor chain, to the other cleat, is at least 5 metres. 

Top view of the chain hook attached to the anchor chain behind the bow roller

Step 3: Lower the anchor chain

Release enough of the anchor chain so that it sags by at least one meter below the snubber, under the water. This allows the snubber to take over the load, reducing stress on the mooring gate and the anchor chain. It prevents the chain from pulling directly on the boat and helps absorb shock from waves and wind.

The process ofChain and snubber lowered below the water surface.

Snubber, a.k.a. Bridle on catamarans

On catamarans, a snubber — or more accurately, a "bridle" — is even  more essential  and is usually pre-installed on charter boats. The bridle consists of two ropes , one attached to each hull, making it crucial for distributing the load evenly between them.

This setup is vital because of the unique way catamarans behave when anchored. Due to their size and design, catamarans tend to swing more in the wind compared to monohulls. The bridle helps to stabilize the boat by spreading the load across both hulls, preventing uneven strain and protecting the anchor chain from rubbing against the hull.

Incorporating a snubber or bridle into your anchoring routine ensures a safer and more comfortable experience, regardless of weather conditions. Next time you’re at anchor, look around — you’ll notice that seasoned sailors always rely on these tools for smooth, secure mooring.

For more information on selecting the right snubber or bridle, including calculators to determine the appropriate length, check out resources like the Snubber Head website.

Contact me and together we'll choose the right boat for you.

Denisa Nguyenová

The Yacht Rigger

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107 15th Ave SE

Saint Petersburg, FL 33701

Old South East

Serving Saint Petersburg Area

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About the business.

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Business Owner

The Yacht Rigger LLC is a mobile sailboat rigging, marine hardware service and parts source based out of St Petersburg, Florida. We are dedicated to assisting you, the sailor, in all aspects regarding your sailboat’s rigging. We offer a mobile sailboat rigging service as well as a free online consultation service regarding online store purchases. Our online store functions as a local and international yacht rigging parts supplier. We specialize in all types of yacht rigging, whether your boat is for cruising or racing, our team provides a comprehensive unbiased service tailored around you and your vessel. Please check out our Services and About page for more info regarding what we do. …

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The Yacht Rigger is a one-stop business for all your marine rigging needs and more. We have had Stephen and his crew do a lot of work on our boat (a 42' sailing catamaran) including new standing rigging, running rigging, construction of a solar arch and tender lift system, custom made solar panels, installation of solar controllers, custom made dive tank holders, increased the length of our rode and replaced the bridle. We even needed some aluminum welding done and Stephen was more than happy to do it for us. Stephen is a man of integrity and a complete professional who loves his work and works tirelessly to see the project completed and ensure the customer is happy. He is now our go-to guy for all of our boat work. I cannot recommend The Yacht Rigger highly enough and we are thrilled with all the improvements he has done to our boat.

Construction of the solar arch.

Installing the solar arch.

As you can see in Google reviews these guys have amazing reviews but as my other reviews show, I review based on the details of my own experience, not others. I wanted them to replace the rigging but also do additional and related work that that Yacht Riggers ultimately broke up into three different projects: replace all standing rigging, replace all chain plates, and install a bow roller for my 55 lb mantus anchor on my 30 ft Pearson. Before going into the details of the execution it should be noted that I value communication before, during, and after the project above all else. What I mean by this is that I will let so many mistakes and lapse in project planning and foresight slide in the presence of good and consistent communication, not just with me, but with each other as well. I would say poor Internal communication is the primary motivation behind the three stars. Initial contact/planning: I need to mention that I initially contacted Yacht Riggers in January 2021 and that all work has been verified complete June 16th 2021, it should be noted that actual work commenced March 1st. So please understand this could have been due to a backlog. If you consider the amount of time to complete from initial contact it took 6 months. If you consider the amount of time to complete from the start of work it took 2.5 months. This is not as bad as a kitchen remodel of mine that took a year and a half (see 5280 google review) :-) Communication/follow up: From a communication standpoint here is what I experienced. They only reply to emails once a day, you must leave a message if you call and they will respond with the same cadence as emails, once a day. Please note, I found this to be typical, not every time, as there were certainly exceptions. Here's the three star part of this review; towards the beginning of the project to about the middle, the participants in the project had a lot of internal communication problems. This tapered off significantly towards the end as I think they were finding too many things being missed that ultimately dug into their profits, so it was remedied. I told them that I wanted a 55 lb mantus (purposefully oversized for the boat as I wanted more weight on the ocean floor when anchoring). I communicated this through phone and email at least four times throughout the process and they forgot that detail at least three times. This tells me that if there was a project plan that the size of the anchor was not taken into consideration, noted, or integrated as they ran into problems with the size when they ordered the new anchor roller. They had physically been on/in the boat more than enough times to make a qualified assessment. They even disconnected the bow pulpit for the dry fit in anticipation. The reasons they gave for why the anchor wouldn't work was based on a visual assessment after they had ordered hardware, performed welding work, and put in man hours. While I was credited labor I was not credited all of it, again, for something that could have been assessed by qualified personnel with many years of experience behind them. The problem was it wasn't communicated that the anchor was 55 lbs. they even tried to tell me they didn't know and I countered they did know and it was mentioned (and acknowledged) in several emails. They had not shared the information internally, this is a recurring theme with them on this project. For the rigging work they gave me an estimate of 7000 and the final invoice was 4378. I mean, that's pretty off. People might say, "yeah but it's in your favor". Ok, but it's an in accurate estimate by any standard. They did better with the chainplate and bow work. I asked them not to go over 4000 and they hit 200 over before taxes...it's fine. My total for the rigging, chainplates, and anchor roller install was 8935. Because of the poor planning on the bow work they gave me the mantus anchor for half price. Works for me. The poor internal communication is my only real beef. The work was good, some had to be redone but nothing that was a big deal. A windex bolt came loose, there was a chain plate leak, lack of proper planning caused loss of time and labor hours, and at one point the fuller drum wasn't secured in high winds and scratched and scuffed my deck. I like Yacht Rigger's enthusiasm but wish there was more of a project management mentality with their execution. By all accounts, they are the best in the area. I only hope my review serves to help people anticipate communication problems that could arise with this team.

The go-to riggers in West Florida, hands down. The entire team is not only knowledgeable, but potentially the highest integrity marine outfit you'll ever work with. They've expertly rigged my 46' cruising cat and I've seen firsthand their work on other sailboats. Truly the best around.

I received a call from the company and although less than pleasant, and obvious they had read my review, they agreed to buy back a part bought because the first electrician they sent misdiagnosed the problem.

Sep 18, 2021

Hi James. Thankfully there are always two sides to a story. I'm glad I'm able to give our version. This might seem long winded but I feel it's necessary to be so that we can explain what happened here clearly - although I have told you this over the phone already. First off, yes, we did have a rather unpleasant conversation a few days ago, mostly I would say, due to you feeling the need to constantly curse at me, and while doing so accuse our team of committing fraud on the job. Back to the job in question. When you initially called in with wind instrument problems we sent out a team to replace the masthead anemometer (transducer) which is the most common cause of failure in these systems. This did not solve the issue, so we sent out an electrician to test the rest of the system. The electrician (whom you are incorrectly accusing of incompetence), followed Raymarine tech support guidelines in troubleshooting the unit, and based on their live feedback, was under the impression your head unit had a bad ground. Once you supplied the new head unit it became apparent this was not the case - electrical fault finding in electronics is tricky at best. We did not charge you for a single minute of the first electricians time (two call-outs) as we realized the diagnosis was incorrect and it would be unfair to do so. The second electrician used a different technique, and established an issue with the internal mast wiring. So we returned and replaced the mast wiring. Once this was done, we plugged in your old transducer (which I now realize you are accusing us of switching out with another, bad unit because we didn't label the unit to your liking) and it still didn't work. We double checked the mast base connections, and it still didn't work - so we plugged in the new transducer, and it worked. So both the wiring and the transducer had faults. This is where we dive into the realm of perception vs reality. During our phone conversation you accused our guys of deliberately disconnecting the mast base wiring during the test of the old transducer, and then sneakily reconnecting the wiring when we plugged in our transducer. First off, this is simply offensive. Secondly, this would be a very foolish fraud model as we only make a few dollars on a transducer like that due to the incredibly low margins on electronics. In other words, besides it being immoral behavior, there's no incentive to do so. You continue to maintain that the first electrician was "incompetent" and cost you $220 due to you buying the head unit on eBay. I would have thought you would just place that item on eBay and re-sell it. When I brought this up you lamented that doing so was A LOT of work. Despite this not really being the case, when you expressed not wanting to do this I told you we would do it for you and just write you a check for the $220. This was done on Friday. We have still not received payment for the invoice sent to you for the work performed as of that Friday afternoon. I hope it arrives soon. At the end of the job, yes, it was higher than initially estimated, simply due to the fact that additional parts were bad and some additional labor required to replace them. When I went through the invoice with you line by line to establish which parts of it specifically you took issue with, all you would say was that we were incompetent fraudsters and wouldn't address any items specifically. I'm really not sure what else we could have doing here. Regards Stephen

I have used them before and they did a good job, but this last time was just awful. I had an electrical problem with my wind and direction gushed. They sent an electrician who did not have the correct parts and misdiagnosed my problem as the control head needed replacement. Since I have an older boat I had to find one used on eBay which I did for $220. That wasn't the problem so he contacted another guy who did have the right equipment and knowledge who found the real problem. The Yacht Rigger refused to honor the cost of replacement part I did not need and the eventual bill was about twice the estimate.

I needed a bigger anchor after dragging one night. I called the YR and they spent lots of time helping me decide on a Mantus M2. They delivered the anchor to my boat, helped my son get the crate lifted onto the foredeck, and provided great tech support about greasing the castle nut. I was concerned that I assembled the anchor wrong and they came out and took the anchor apart and reassembled the anchor, free of charge. Great company, great pricing, great customer service.

Sep 27, 2021

Thanks guys! Great working with you!

I have known and worked with these guys for many years. It is very difficult to be good at everything but I believe that these guys do a very good job with everything Boat related! Their knowledge and talent is refreshing in an industry that doesn't always have the best reputation. Completing difficult jobs in a very difficult time right now with Covid challenges, it's nice to have a company that you can count on like the Yacht Rigger

Hey Colin, Thanks very much for the review. Always good doing business with you guys.

I bought a new to me sailboat in oct 2020 and was told by my surveyor that it needed a new rig (all new standing rigging). This is where the yacht riggers come in, even though I was out of town they came to my boat and did an inspection. I was called by Stephen at the yacht riggers and told that my surveyor I was correct and that I didn need a new rig. This gave me the ability to use that during my negotiations for the price of the sailboat. I purchased at the end of oct, and had the sailboat to st Petersburg and getting the rig replaced by jan. I would say they were about a month out for repairs like this. I showed up the day of for the mast removal onetime and so was their crane operator (this is outsourced) they share space with a working yard. They removed the mast and allowed me to be apart of the process as much and or as little as I wanted. I participated a lot in and throughout the process. It took about a month before my mast was refurbished and all new standing rigging in place and a time scheduled for me to have it re-stepped. They also scheduled me with another person who was having theirs taken down to reduce the cost of the crane between the other boat and mine. This was prob a 200-300 savings for myself and the other boat. The job was finished fast and with great communication. I even had bought a new lamp for the mast but they had replaced it already and instead of charging me for the lamp I just gave them mine which I had ordered because I got it at a significant discount and they called it square no charge for the install etc etc. I also continued to use the yacht rigger during my next 2months in st Pete for a few more projects. I ordered from them a new Atlantic tower in a box. No fault to them the company had sent the next size up tower which at first was a pain for myself as I was installing it myself and was getting frustrated with the process because I could not figure out why it was still to large after following all instructions. I called and spoke with the yacht riggers about this and they figured out that it was in fact the wrong size for my vessel but would work as long as I did a few more things which would mean I actually have a beefier tower then I needed or paid for which isn't a bad thing. But without question one of the owners came over to my boat that day and helped me fix the problem giving me about 3 hours of their time which was prob about 8-10 hours of mine had I not had Brian helping me out. This lead to me getting my tower up the same day I started the project and now having a beefier setup for my new solar panels I was installing too. Brian who's amazing at welding also was able to help me with my heat exchanger. He was able to reconfigure the mixing elbow end of my heat exchanger which had blown a hole and was causing my engine to over heat and fixed in about a week for a few hundred dollars making the heat exchanger look and work like new. This compared to the 2300 dollars it would have cost for a new heat exchanger for my yammer was amazing. These guys seem to do it all and do it with a smile! This was by far a great experience with 99% of the stuff I needed being done on time and for under budget. I would go back to them in a heart beat!

in my 70 years in the industry they are literally the best people to work with in the industry!

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Become an Anchor Captain List Your Boat Basic Information St Pete Yacht Rental Yacht rentals st. pete | best yacht charters in st. petersburg, florida, thank you for making anchor the #1 yacht rental company in st. pete, st. pete yacht rentals . Welcome to St. Petersburg, FL, one of the fastest-growing cities in Florida! Anchor has a beautiful fleet of yachts available for rent or charter in the greater St. Pete area. St. Pete is the perfect yacht charter destination, with intracoastal waterways to view mansions, sandbars for swimming and water activities, and a large selection of yacht charters to choose from. Whether you're celebrating a bachelor or bachelorette party, birthday, or just hangin' with your crew, Anchor is the top-rated yacht rental company in St. Pete! Day Charters St. Pete has plenty to offer for a perfect yacht charter. We offer 4 hour rentals, 6 hour rentals, and full-day rentals. We also offer multi-day trips if you want to visit destinations like Fort Myers , Cape Coral , South Seas, Marco Island, and Florida Keys. Day charters are an affordable way for you and your crew to rent a private yacht with Captain and Crew included. Also included in the price of your charter is local cruising fuel, cleaning fees, service fees & taxes, and even some gratuity on most charter listings. Most of our yachts have a 13 guest max, not including the Captain and Crew. So grab 12 of your best friends and head out for a St. Petersburg yacht charter with Anchor! Find the perfect yacht rental in St. Pete Anchor has hundreds of yachts available for rent with a Captain. You can shop and browse yachts and filter by date, location (using the map), size, budget, and much more. Book a yacht with confidence with our transparent and all-inclusive pricing. Never worry about hidden fees or additional costs, unless you want to add provisions to your charter. Finding the perfect yacht charter in St. Pete is super easy with Anchor. If you're interested in a St. Pete Boat Rental instead check out this page to view our available inventory! Yacht rentals and yacht charters to Egmont Key Egmont Key is a popular yachting destination with beautifully clear / turquoise water. Egmont Key is located just North of St. Petersburg and just north of Anna Maria Island , so if your yacht is departing from downtown St. Pete, you'll want to book a minimum of a 6 hour charter, or save money with the discounted full-day (8 hour) yacht charter options.  Yacht rentals and yacht charters to Johns Pass Sandbar Johns Pass is located a bit further south and is a great local meet up location for yachters. If you've chartered a yacht from downtown St. Pete, you\'ll want to be sure to book a 6 hour rental or 8 hour rental to ensure you have enough time to get there. Johns Pass is a really fun local sandbar where yachters party 7 days a week. Mostly on Saturdays and Sundays. Looking For Something Smaller? View our st pete boat rental selection here. We offer amazing charters in great areas around St Pete. Book very quickly and easily to enjoy a great day on the water! Looking For a Pontoon? View our tampa pontoon rental selection here. We offer amazing charters in great areas all over Tampa. Book very quick and easy and enjoy a great day on the water! Weather in St. Pete Always keep in mind the weather when planning your yacht rental experience. St. Petersburg is an ideal location for a yacht charter, either while on vacation or “staycation” because of the wonderful weather patterns. Located just above the tropical divide, the winters range in the 70°s and summers in the 90°s, so there's no wrong time to visit. While it may rain frequently in St. Pete, the storms are almost always scattered and very short in duration, oftentimes only lasting a few minutes and then the sun is shining again. If you're traveling to St. Pete in the cooler months of the year, be sure to pack some layers to wear while on your yachting trip, especially if you plan to go yachting in the evening. If you're traveling during the summer months, remember to stay hydrated and take some extra precautions when it comes to sun care. When planning to rent a yacht in St. Pete, your Captain will keep an eye on the weather patterns. The Captain will warn you of any weather that could cause your yacht charter to be canceled, rescheduled, or departure time pushed back. Safety is always our top priority. Other popular yacht charter destinations near St. Petersburg St. Pete is located on the west coast of Florida and is nestled near several other wonderful yachting destinations, so if you can't find the yacht charter you're looking for in St. Pete, check out these other amazing locations. Anna Maria Island and Sarasota, Fl are the nearest yachting destinations. Tampa Bay has yachts available just 30 minutes from St. Pete.   Ft. Myers and Cape Coral are about an 2 hour drive south and located below the tropical divide for warmer weather in the winter months. How much does it cost to rent a yacht in St Pete? The average cost to rent a yacht in st. pete is $2200.00 (usd). Average cost of a 4 hour yacht rental = $2200.00* Average cost of a 6 hour yacht rental = $2900.00* Average cost of a 8 yacht rental = $3300.00* *The average cost of a yacht charter or yacht rental can differ based on the size of the yacht and the year the yacht was manufactured. Newer yachts are more expensive, but they are cleaner and offer nicer amenities. And bigger yachts are typically more expensive, but they offer often more space, amenities, crew, and overall experience.  Anchor Yacht Rentals - St. Petersburg, FL 260 1st Ave S Suite 200-183 St. Petersburg, FL 33701 Link to our Google My Business Profile 5134 Salmon Drive Se #A,  Saint Petersburg, FL 33705 Michael Wyckoff Ineta Kalnina Engel & Volkers Madeira Beach Last updated: September 3, 2024, 03:31 PM About This Home Includes deeded boat slip with lift! Nestled within the serene Waterside at Coquina Key, this meticulously updated residence offers the perfect blend of island tranquility and urban convenience. Enjoy the luxury of a separately deeded 13,000 lbs BOAT LIFT just outside your door, allowing you to fully embrace the coastal lifestyle. This waterfront oasis boasts unparalleled views and access to 3 miles of seawall and walking paths on 88 acres of lush, landscaped grounds. This open-concept 1st floor condo features 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, with an oversized patio and covered side porch to maximize outdoor living. Recent renovations have enhanced both the exterior and interior, including new Roof and HVAC system, electric panel, impact windows, sleek stainless steel appliances, and more. Residents of Waterside at Coquina Key indulge in resort-style amenities. Enjoy cocktails and dinner at the exclusive, private two-story Waterside Yacht Club, which offers full liquor sports bar, nightly specials in the restaurant and gorgeous water views. The community also features two pools, one of which is right on the bay with a hot tub. The clubhouse also offers fully equipped fitness center open 24/7, business center, billiards room, library/game room, vending machines, ice machine and laundry facilities. This private yacht club may be booked for private events. Relax and do some fishing from the Fishing Pier, play tennis under the lights, or opt for Pickleball, basketball, sand volleyball, horseshoes, or shuffleboard. Or take a stroll with your pooch at the on-site dog park with walking paths. Bicycle and Kayak racks are available to rent. Golf cart friendly community. Waterside South is a short commute from the bustling downtown and waterfront area of St Petersburg with its boutique shopping, dining, numerous museums, and many entertainment venues. Short drive to Fort DeSoto and the beautiful sands of St Petersburg Beach. Easy commute to Tampa and Tampa International Airport to the north and the iconic Skyway Bridge and Sarasota/Bradenton area to the south. Discover the epitome of care-free waterfront living at Waterside at Coquina Key, where every day brings the allure of island living within reach of vibrant urban amenities. Built in 1979 Price Summary $510 per Sq. Ft. Last Updated: 12 day(s) ago Rooms & Interior Total Bedrooms: Total Bathrooms: Full Bathrooms: Living Area: 1,018 Sq. Ft. Building Area: Year Built: Lot Size (Sq. Ft): Finances & Disclosures Price per Sq. Ft: Contact an Agent Yes, I would like more information from Coldwell Banker. Please use and/or share my information with a Coldwell Banker agent to contact me about my real estate needs. By clicking Contact I agree a Coldwell Banker Agent may contact me by phone or text message including by automated means and prerecorded messages about real estate services, and that I can access real estate services without providing my phone number. I acknowledge that I have read and agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. 163 IMAGES The Ultimate Guide To Anchors And Anchor Chain The Ultimate Guide To Anchors And Anchor Chain The Ultimate Guide To Anchors And Anchor Chain Colorful Rope and Metal Chain As Part of Anchor. Detail of Yacht Stock The Ultimate Guide To Anchors And Anchor Chain Metal Chain As Part of Anchor. Detail of Yacht Stock Image VIDEO Ship Anchor, navy anchor, sea anchor, yacht anchor, mooring anchor, boat anchor, vessel anchor Marking the anchor chain. A better marking system for easier visibility. 2/18/23 6 Tonnes of Anchor Chain!!! Adding a Bowsprit for a furling Gennaker Buying a new anchor and chain & refurbishing our water maker Anchor Chain and Mantus Swivel upgrade COMMENTS The Ultimate Guide To Anchors And Anchor Chain As a rule, your anchor chain should be at least as long as your boat, but no shorter than 10 to 15-feet. Your anchor line length will depend on anchoring depth. If you will be anchoring in deeper water, you will need enough rode to achieve a proper scope ratio. The rule of thumb is to plan 8-feet of line per 1-foot of anchoring depth. How to Pick an Anchor Rope Size, Type, Length and More How to Pick an Anchor Rope Size, Type, Length and More Anchors & Anchoring: A Basic Guide This means when anchoring in 10M of water 30 M of chain should be paid out. With a rope rode this ratio would be 7:1, regardless of whether a short length of chain is used on the bottom. As depth in the anchorage increases so too should the ratio of anchor rode used. At 15M using a 5:1 ratio for chain is recommended. Anchor Chain and Rope Size Guide Anchor Chain Size Rule of Thumb. There is an old rule of thumb that dates back many years, which states a requirement of 1/8" chain diameter for every 9 or 10 feet of boat length - with approximate metric conversions: e.g. 1/4" now available as 6mm DIN766 chain would be up to 20 or 23 feet Yacht LOA, 7mm DIN766 chain would be up to 23 or 27 ... Boat Anchor Chain When anchoring a boat, it is important to use a heavy chain to ensure the boat stays in place. The chain should be attached to the anchor and the anchor should be attached to the boat. There are several ways to do this. One way is to use an iron shackle. This is a metal clip that can be opened and closed. The Ultimate Guide to Boat Anchoring: Snubbers, Chains & More! Anchoring a boat is a multi-step process that begins with selecting an appropriate anchoring spot. Once you have found the ideal location, lower the anchor smoothly while letting out the chain. After you think the anchor has settled, let out more chain and attach the snubber. Finally, slowly reverse your boat to set the anchor firmly into the ... Anchor Selection: A Guide to Types and Sizes Consult manufacturer guidelines on their recommendations for anchor sizing based on boat length. Chain and Rode Size. The anchor rode, which connects your boat to the anchor, is critical for holding power. The scope, typically measured in a ratio of the rode's length to the water's depth, is an important factor for the anchor's performance. Types of Anchor Chains, Marine Chains The most popular varieties of galvanized-steel windlass chain include high-test or grade 40 (usually marked HT, G4, or HT4); triple B or grade 30 (marked as BBB or 3B); and proof coil, also grade 30 (often marked PC, PC3, or G3). Each has attributes and shortcomings. BBB and proof coil are made from low-carbon steel; heat-treated high-test is ... Anchor chains and lines In general, the longer the anchor chain or anchor line, the better the anchor will hold. The angle of pull is important here, and it should not exceed eight degrees. For optimal mooring of a sailboat or a motor yacht, a chain length corresponding to 5 to 7 times the water depth is usually sufficient. Anchoring Masterclass: How to Anchor like an Expert At Sail Ionian, a typical 40ft charter yacht will carry at least 60 meters of chain. Using the old maxim of 4-5 times the depth of water, we get a maximum anchoring depth range of around 12-15 meters. Our windlasses can deadlift a substantial weight, but when you consider the length of chain plus the anchor at the end, it is a considerable lift. Anchor Chains 3/16" X 3' Anchor Chain, Vinyl Coated Galvanized Steel. 1/4" X 4' Anchor Chain, Vinyl Coated Galvanized Steel. 8mm Windlass Chain, DIN766 G50 Stainless Steel, Sold by the Pail. 316L Stainless Steel Windlass Chain, 10mm Diameter x 35 Meters Length. 316L Stainless Steel Windlass Chain, 8mm Diameter x 35 Meters Length. CONTACT WEST MARINE. Live Chat. Selecting an Anchor Rode Anchor rodes consist of a length of chain, rope or a combination of rope and chain that connects an anchor to a boat. The rope portion of anchor rodes typically consists of nylon three-strand, 12-strand or double-braid line. Nylon is the material of choice, because it is elastic and able to absorb the shock loads encountered when anchoring.Polyester or other materials should not be used for ... Types, Materials, and Maintenance Tips for Anchor Chains Galvanized steel is the most widely used material in making anchor chains. Galvanized steel is the one that has a coating of zinc on it. This coating is applied through the galvanization process and imparts corrosion resistance to the steel. The anchor chains made with this material are decently strong. Anchoring & Mooring Anchoring & Mooring How to Mark Your Anchor Chain Welcome to What Yacht To Do, a Great Loop Documentary. Today Rev and Sam show you how to mark your anchor chain. We are cruising around America's Great Loop ... Making Sense of Marine Chain Standards The most common chain grades used for anchor rodes on recreational boats are G30, G40, G43, and G70. Chain marked as G30, G40, or G43 is made from carbon, or mild, steel. Chains denoted as G70 are heat-treated steel, commonly quenched and tempered (the same process used for some anchor shanks). Quench and tempered steels are made to specific ... Marine Anchor Chain The boat anchor chain or rode has an important role in the performance of an anchor. An anchor rode encompasses all the fittings from the shank of the anchor to where it is attached to the vessel. For the vessel that can afford the weight of an all-chain rode this has tremendous advantages such as being able to let out more chain and providing ... Anchor-Man Stainless Steel Boat Anchor Chain, Marine Grade, High Break Premium Boat Anchor Chain Work With Different Anchors. Our stainless anchor chains are well-made with stable and firm structures. Equipped with 5/16" US Bow Type Shackles on both ends, ensuring a tight and secure attachment for your marine safety. Designed for seamless use with rode or ropes, these chains provide an effortless solution for ... Anchor to Chain Connection Guide Fit the largest diameter pin possible through the end link of the chain for the strongest possible joint. Fit the largest, shortest pin possible through any 'square cut' hole, e.g. the slot in some anchor shanks. Use the more open-rounded shape of bow shackles to allow more freedom of movement (articulation) where required. Superyacht Anchor Range Superyacht Anchors - Manson Anchors USA. Trusted by the Owners of the World's Best Superyachts. We have been fabricating anchors for the world's best shipyards for over 40 years. Across the globe you will find submarine anchors, traditional kedge and plough anchors and flush-fitting hiding anchors keeping superyachts safe while at anchor. 5 reasons to use a snubber while anchoring and how to install it Step 3: Lower the anchor chain. Release enough of the anchor chain so that it sags by at least one meter below the snubber, under the water. This allows the snubber to take over the load, reducing stress on the mooring gate and the anchor chain. It prevents the chain from pulling directly on the boat and helps absorb shock from waves and wind. THE YACHT RIGGER The Yacht Rigger is a one-stop business for all your marine rigging needs and more. We have had Stephen and his crew do a lot of work on our boat (a 42' sailing catamaran) including new standing rigging, running rigging, construction of a solar arch and tender lift system, custom made solar panels, installation of solar controllers, custom made dive tank holders, increased the length of our ... St. Petersburg Yacht Sales and Service 727-823-2555 St. Petersburg Yacht Sales and Service 727-823-2555. St. Petersburg Yacht Sales and Service has been serving customers since 1964 and is located in downtown St. Petersburg. We are close by the St. Petersburg Municipal Marina where we have some of our many brokerage boats on display. Anchor Boat & Yacht Rentals Read 92 customer reviews of Anchor Boat & Yacht Rentals - St. Petersburg, FL, one of the best Automotive businesses at 260 1st Ave S Suite 200-183, Saint Petersburg, FL 33701 United States. Find reviews, ratings, directions, business hours, and book appointments online. Anchor: Boat & Captain Rentals, Charters and Water Taxis So grab 12 of your best friends and head out for a St. Petersburg yacht charter with Anchor! Find the perfect yacht rental in St. Pete. Anchor has hundreds of yachts available for rent with a Captain. You can shop and browse yachts and filter by date, location (using the map), size, budget, and much more. Book a yacht with confidence with our ... Saint Petersburg, FL 33705 Enjoy the luxury of a separately deeded 13,000 lbs BOAT LIFT just outside your door, allowing you to fully embrace the coastal lifestyle. This waterfront oasis boasts unparalleled views and access to 3 miles of seawall and walking paths on 88 acres of lush, landscaped grounds. This open-concept 1st floor condo features 2 bedrooms and 2 ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht