gin pole for sailboat mast

The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

How to Step a Mast Single-Handed With or Without Using the Boom as a Gin Pole

How do you step the mast on your trailerable sailboat? With a gin pole? With the trailer winch? With the help of friends or family? With your fingers crossed? No single system works for every sailboat or for every skipper. If you’re new to mast stepping, you don’t like your current method, or you just want to simplify or speed up the process, this post is for you. I must warn you though, this is a long post, even for me. To make it as short as possible, I’ve included five YouTube videos that show how this system works. By the end of this post, you’ll know everything about how I step the mast on Summer Dance single-handed in minutes, even on the water.

I’ll describe two ways that I step the mast, including one way that doesn’t use a gin pole at all. Both are fast and mostly use the boat’s own rigging and very little extra gear.

I’ll also explain some topics that lead up to and follow mast stepping, like how I:

Use a DIY telescoping mast crutch for easier stepping and secure trailering.
Tie down the mast and rigging for trailering.
Keep my mast in tune without having to loosen and re-tighten the shroud turnbuckles to step the mast.

What do you really need?

When I started trailering Summer Dance years ago, I researched a lot about mast stepping. The Catalina 22 Owner’s Manual and General Handbook is pretty brief on the subject.

Walk the mast aft and drop the mast foot into the mast step on top of the deck, keeping the mast in center line of boat, insert the pivot bolt and locking nut. One crew member should pull on a line tied securely to the forestay while another pushes up on the mast and walks from the cockpit forward. With the mast erect, attach the forestay and forward lower shrouds.

Poorly written but pretty simple, huh? One crew member pulls on the forestay while another pushes on the mast. That’s how the mast was designed to be stepped and it works well if you’re young, strong, and there are two or more of you to do the job.

But what if you don’t normally have a second able crew member? What if you need to step the mast on the water? What if you want to lower the mast to go under a bridge? What if you or your crew have a physical impairment that prevents them from performing one of the tasks? That system may not work for you and you need an alternative. If you believe in the rule that you should have a backup for every critical part and system, then you also need a backup mast stepping plan even if you normally step the mast with the factory recommended method.

I’ve read about lots of different systems. Maybe you have too:

Factory-built gin poles, braces, guy wires, and mast-ups
DIY wooden gin poles with winches, bridles, and brace poles
Blocks attached to the pulpit to reuse the trailer winch cable
Electric winches on the trailer or in the tow vehicle
Jumbo bungee cord connected to the forestay
Assorted Rube Goldberg variations on all the above

They all struck me as overkill for the real problem. What do you really need once you have the mast bolted to the step? What do all of these system have in common? Some mechanical advantage to raise the mast and a way to keep it from swinging too far sideways until the shrouds tighten.

If you’ve read this blog for very long at all, you know that I’m really big on reusing or repurposing things for other uses. It’s something of a prerequisite to be a stingy sailor. If you’re lucky, it’s in your DNA and it comes easily to you. Being an armchair engineer qualifies too.

Let’s see — sailboat design is all about capturing, multiplying, and redirecting forces for mechanical advantage: the hull, keel, rudder, mast, sails, rigging, almost everything. What’s the most compact, portable piece of gear on a sailboat that creates mechanical advantage? The main sheet or the boom vang typically multiplies the force applied to it by three or four times. What are all gin poles in their most basic form? A big stick. Is there already a long, stiff, portable, stick onboard? The boom. Can we raise and lower the mast single-handed with the main sheet and the boom?

As it turns out, it’s really pretty easy to do. But it’s not very easy to describe in words, so rather than write an entire book about it, I’ve made a series of short videos that each show a different aspect of my mast stepping system. I’ll give you an overview of each aspect in the text below but to really get it, you should watch the videos.

Getting it to the water

Besides being simpler, one of the basic principles of this system is to make launching and retrieving the boat as quick as possible while also being safe. That starts with securing the mast and rigging for trailering. For me, it has to be secure enough to tow for a hundred miles over bumpy state highways and county backroads to my favorite cruising spots. This is in north Idaho, mind you, which is relatively remote compared to the Florida coast or southern California.

I use a combination of DIY mast supports, motorcycle straps, and inexpensive ball cords to secure the rig. The mast is supported on both ends and in the middle. This follows closely the Catalina 22 Owner’s Manual and General Handbook recommendation.

Tie the mast and boom securely to the bow and stern pulpits. The spars should also be supported in the middle by the cabin top. Pad the mast at all contact points to prevent damage.

No tools or knot tying are needed for my system and any one of them works in seconds and stows easily either onboard or in my pickup.

Here’s a tour of the rig tied down just before I step the mast.

The previous video mentions my DIY mast stepper, also called a Mastup by a popular online Catalina parts retailer. I haven’t yet devoted a blog post to it but it was pretty easy to make. If you’re interested in a fabrication drawing and materials list, keep reading to the end of this post and a special offer.

I bought the steel myself from the cutoff pile at a local metal distributor. I took the metal and my drawing to a local welder who advertised on craigslist.com. I painted and assembled it myself. The total cost was half the price of the commercial version and in some ways, works even better. I especially like the D rings, which make it simple to secure the top of the mast stepper to the aft mooring cleats while trailering. It holds the mast very solid that way. And because the pintles are welded in place instead of adjustable, they can’t accidentally loosen and drop the mast.

Following is a close-up video of just the mast stepper. You can see it in action in the last two videos.

Setting up the boom as a gin pole

The basic theory of a gin pole is to lift a heavy object below one end while it remains stationary at the other end. Support lines called guys position the lifting end over the object that is raised. A mast raising gin pole has one end stationary near the base of the mast, uses the forestay to support the lifting end, and uses a winch or a block and tackle to theoretically raise the bow of the sailboat to the end of the gin pole. In reality, the bow stays stationary and the entire gin pole system including its base (the mast) are raised towards the bow.

Most C-22 gin poles use one of two methods to attach the gin pole to the mast:

A peg on one end of the pole that fits in a hole in the mast (the factory system for 2nd generation C-22s)
A saddle on the end of the gin pole that fits around and is strapped to the mast (most DIY systems)

Neither of those gin poles serve any purpose after the mast is raised. They’re useless extra weight that takes extra storage space.

The system I use attaches using a small right angle bracket. I fabricated it out of a piece of scrap aluminum I already had. One side of the bracket is bolted through the mast step and the cabin top in front of the mast. The other side the bracket points upward and has a 1/4″ hole through it to act as a hinge for the gooseneck (stationary lower) end of the boom. If you’re a follower of this blog and have the password, you can find a scale drawing of this bracket on the Downloads page.

I connect the gooseneck fitting to the bracket with the same quick pin (drop cam or toggling bimini type) that I use to connect the gooseneck fitting to the mast slide while sailing. The pin is tethered to the boom with a stainless steel lanyard so it can’t get lost and it’s always near at hand.

I connect the forestay to a shackle on the top side of the (upper) end of the boom. On the opposite (bottom) side of the boom from the forestay, I connect the end of my main sheet tackle that doesn’t have the cam cleat. This is the same configuration as when the main sheet is attached for sailing. I connect the other end of the main sheet (that’s normally attached to the traveler car) to the stem plate where the forestay is normally attached.

To hold the boom vertical during raising, I sometimes use two pieces of pre-tied accessory cord. They connect to the sides of the boom with clips through the eye straps where my boom topping lift and jiffy reefing lines attach. The other ends of the cords have loops tied into them that I tie to the upper ends of the midship lifeline stanchions with girth (cow) hitches. The mast step is nearly in-line with the tops of the stanchions, so the cords rotate around the same pivot point as the mast and the boom.

If your sailboat doesn’t have the same style of gooseneck fitting as a Catalina 22 or you can’t use your boom for some other reason but you do have a spinnaker pole, you might be able to use it instead as this picture from a Westerly 21 owner shows. This picture also shows that a gin pole can be a great help with lifting the extra weight added by a furler.

That’s kind of hard to visualize, so here’s a short video that takes you on a tour of the setup.

This is a stickup with a boom!

After I rig the boom like shown above, the hard part is over. The rest is just pulling the main sheet with one hand while I steady the mast with my other hand. I also watch the stays and shrouds to be sure they don’t catch on anything as they raise off the deck.

With the main sheet cam cleat at the stem plate, I can easily stop raising the mast at any point, cleat the line with a sharp tug, and then clear snags or move to a better lifting position. Then I uncleat the main sheet at the stem plate first and hold light tension on the main sheet while I get into position to resume raising the mast.

The mast only needs to be held centered until it reaches about a 45° angle. Then the upper shrouds begin to tighten and they hold it centered the rest of the way up.

When the mast is vertical, I reconnect the forestay and forward lower shrouds using quick release levers . The mast is back in tune and requires no further adjustment. I disconnect the boom from the system and attach it in its normal place between the mast slide and the topping lift or backstay pendant. I disconnect the main sheet and attach it to the traveler car. All I need to put away are the two accessory cords if I used them, which I typically only do when it’s windy, when I’m setting up in a unlevel area, or on the water when its choppy.

Here’s a video showing the entire process completed in about 4 and a half leisurely minutes.

Single-handed speed stepping

In good conditions (light breeze, level area, or calm water), I skip over using the boom as a gin pole entirely and just use the main sheet to pull the mast up by the forestay. It saves several minutes and is nearly as easy to do but you should be fitter than average to attempt it. It’s the single-handed equivalent of having a crew member in front of the boat pull a line attached to the forestay. Bystanders seem to enjoy watching me raise the mast by myself in seconds.

Here’s what it looks like when it’s done on the water.

Back to the beginning

At the end of a road trip, I never look forward to tearing down Summer Dance , pulling her out of the water, and tying her down for the ride home. I’ve had a great time but I’m tired and there’s many miles to go before I sleep. I don’t want to spend an hour lowering the mast and tying the rig down. I want it to be quick and simple.

Almost always, I lower the mast without using the boom as a gin pole even if I raised it that way. A gin pole is just not usually necessary so long as the mast comes down slow enough and lands in the crutch. You might not want to do it that way your first few times, so here’s what it looks like using the boom as a gin pole.

Then I tie it all down in a few minutes like shown in the first video.

Special offer for blog followers

Whew! That’s a lot of info. If you stuck with me through it, I really appreciate it. I want to thank you by offering not one, but two free bonuses to my blog followers.

The first is the launch checklist that I use to prepare and launch Summer Dance . It’s two pages of items that can help make sure you don’t forget something important for your next cruise — everything from an umbrella for the first mate while she waits for you to step the mast, to step-by-step instructions that you can have on deck for the gin pole method described above. Use it as a starting point to add and remove items to make your own checklist.

The second bonus is a dimensioned drawing and materials list for my DIY mast crutch that is described at the beginning of this post. Use it to build your own and save some money for something else.

If you’re already a subscriber to this blog, you can download both of the free bonuses from my Downloads page using the password that you received when you subscribed. If you’re not already a subscribed to this blog, sign up and you’ll join the thousands of other stingy sailors. Just enter your email address in the box at the bottom of this page and then click the Subscribe button. You can unsubscribe at any time and I won’t share your address with anyone, ever.

I hope you’ve picked up some tips from this post that you can use to optimize your mast stepping system and spend more time on the water.

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You weren’t receiving the newsletter initially because you’re a WordPress user so if you follow, my posts should show up in your Reader list instead of by email. But I added your email address to the newsletter recipient list back on May 11. The last newsletter went out on May 21 titled What’s Your Favorite DIY Project? Did you get that one? I’ll probably shoot out the next one at the end of the month. If you don’t get it, I don’t know what more I can do on my end.

Brilliant repurpose of mainsheet. I’ve struggled with this procedure for years, just man-handling it up there. Can’t wait to try this!

I hope it works for you. Let me know how it goes!

For mast raising and lowering, I have it a little easier with a 16ft boat, and can raise the mast single handed juat by manually lifting and walking forward in the cockpit and onto the keel case with the hatch slid forward, although I usually have my wife tension the forestay for some extra assurance.

I like your use of the “ball ties” for securing the rigging on the trailer. I usually use the halyards to tie everything up, but that takes more time than it should. I use some “sail ties” which are very similar to your ball ties to secure the sail on the boom and the boom is stowed inside the cabin. I think I will either get some more sail ties for securing the rigging on the trailer, or make up some velcro webbing straps. At the bow, my mast is tied down using my bowline and the DIY timber A frame mast crutch tied down at the rear with a rope tied to cleats on either side of the transom. The boat is held to the trailer using a stern ratchet strap and a turnbuckle on the bow, and the winch cable attached.

I really like the idea of using the boom as a gin pole. Brilliant. I wonder if you could post a picture of the L-shaped aluminum bracket that you fabricated and how it is attached to the boom? Making that may be the tricky part for me to get this thing. I could not really see a clear picture of it in your videos. Thanks!

I’ll add a close-up shot of it soon.

I added a close-up picture of the hinge bracket about midway through the post.

Excellent blog and report. I struggle with the mast raising and have an assistant. I will give your system a try. I finally understand the function of a gin pole and how to use it.

That’s awesome, Richie. I’m really glad it helped. In the case of a sailboat, it’s just a long, temporary lever. Aha moments are great!

Excellent report and diagram on the mast stepper. What would you think about using aluminum to build it instead of steel?

I think aluminum would work great so long as the wall thickness of the tubes is adequate. You wouldn’t need to be concerned about painting or rust. The critical area is where the outer tube overlaps the inner tube when the crutch is extended. Depending on how close the fit is and how much overlap, when you’re rolling the mast back to set it in the step, there can be considerable strain on that “joint.” A thin wall or soft aluminum might deform so make it beefy there.

Thanks for your comment, Michael!

I spoke to my fabricator friend about using aluminum and, him not knowing about the stepping process was most concerned about the hinges holding weight while trailering over the road. He also suggested using a beefier thickness if choosing aluminum just like your suggestion.

thanks for all you do!!!

The gudgeons can easily handle the weight so long as the pintles on the crutch are sturdy.

Send us a good picture of the final product and I’ll add it at the end of the post as an example!

Great post. Just started following your site. You have a lot of good projects on here. Where did you find such thin-walled square tubing for your mast stepper? All I can find is telescoping 1-3/4 & 1″ tubing. I don’t think I need that much strength or weight. Also, I receive the posts by e-mail but I never received the password for the download section. Thanks

There are a couple of industrial metal suppliers in my area that sell their cut-offs retail to the public by the pound. One of them also sells small quantities of standard sizes. I found all the sizes I needed with very little cutting. You definitely don’t need much strength and as little weight as possible. Aluminum would be even better if you can get it welded.

I’ll send you the password by email.

Thanks for your question.

I really like the simplicity of raising the mast without a gin pole. I use a gin pole now but prefer a simpler approach. How to you lower your mast? Do you use your mainsheet tackle when lowering? Thanks for the great video.. Jim Mathews

That’s right, Jim. I lower the mast by the same method but in reverse, which helps to remember the steps in both directions.

Thanks for your question!

Hi. I’m making the mast crutch and downloaded the drawing. How far down is the second hole in the 1″ tubing? ie. the hole where I would put the lock pin when the crutch is raised. Thanks.

That’s an excellent question, Jim, since it wasn’t shown on the drawing. I’ve since revised the drawing to show the hole 2″ up from the bottom of the inner tube.

The distance isn’t critical but depending on how tight the fit is between the inner and the outer tube, the hole might work better even farther up the inner tube. Try it at 2″ and if the top tube is too loose for you and it wobbles around, drill another hole farther up the inner tube, say at 4″ and try that. The mast will sit 2″ lower but it shouldn’t affect how you step the mast other than by making the crutch sturdier. Then you will have two holes to choose from. You can even drill more holes at different heights for different purposes.

Hi Thanks for the blog. Some pretty interesting ideas here, I’m borrowing some, especially related to the sails… Seeing your “system” to step the mast, I’m trying to adapt it to my boat, a ’82 French Rocca Super Chausey. The mast step has no pin to lock to the mast foot, it just falls into place between two pins that limit its longitudinal travel. Hence, nothing for the mast to pivot on. Any thoughts on how I could achieve that effect? Thanks.

If you have the tools and the ambition, you could replace your existing tabernacle with a custom made pivoting one. Find a piece of heavy gauge aluminum channel that you can cut into a shape similar to the C-22 tabernacle shown in the picture above. The channel should be just wide enough for the mast to sit into and the height a couple of inches. Cut slots in the sides for the through bolt to slide up and down. Cut the channel long enough and drill holes in the bottom of the channel to fit your existing deck bolts.

Then drill a hole through the base of the mast to accept the through bolt. It should be close to the bottom of the mast, 1/4″-1/2″ from the bottom. Angle the aft edge of the end of the mast so that it will rotate without binding in both directions. As it rotates backward during unstepping, the bottom end of the mast and the through bolt should ride up in the slots. Put a wingnut on the end of the through bolt for easy removal and you’ve got a pivoting mast.

If you don’t have the resources to make one yourself, maybe you can find a friend or a metal fabricator to help.

Good luck with your projects and thanks for your question! $tingy

When installing the gin pole hinge bracket you drill through the cabin roof. Have you experienced any water penetration through this hole?

I sealed the plate and hole perimeters with butyl tape, so no problems.

Wow! Love the post and videos!! So clear and easy to follow. I’m going to try this for my Columbia 8.3. I tried to follow you but got an error code. Can you manually add me, please?

Please try following again and if the error repeats, send me the text or a screenshot of the error so I can investigate.

My Venture 21 tabernacle and mast look like yours (sans the plate for your swivel blocks) and I have often wondered if there is wear on the trailing edge of the mast foot after repeated raising/lowering? Or does yours have some reinforcement?

Also, have you ever noticed the boom baby stays pulling too much on the stantions? I wonder if mounting the ropes at the base would be less apt to damage them if the mast were to go somewhat off-center (to the exrent the upper shrouds allowed)?

Love your site. I shared the 2017 DIY competition on Small Craft Advisor Magazine’s Facebook page and I noticed the 10 most popular projects link…most of which are on my to-do list!

There is a tiny bit of wear after 36 years but not enough to matter. Tying the baby stays to the stanchion bases would be more solid but then their pivot points would be too low. The reason that I tie them up at the top of the stanchions is so that the baby stays keep in relatively constant tension throughout the range of motion of the mast/boom. They’re almost perfectly aligned with the tabernacle. The stanchions aren’t in much danger because the boom doesn’t weight much and it can’t wander very far at all since it’s held in tension between the forestay (running aft) and the main sheet (running forward). They really just help to hold the boom vertical while you’re setting the system up until you begin to raise the mast. The mast can wander side to side some until its raised about halfway, then the upper shrouds come taught and keep it centered.

Thanks for the share!

Your site has been a tremendous help and inspiration for me and my 1988 Cat 22. My mast step has welded loops fore and aft. Can you suggest a structurally sound way to secure the boom to the loop for lifting/lowering?

Link showing the step: http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/345_18/mast-step-c-22-cp-22brcp-18-wwelded-vang-loop.cfm

Hello, KGUNN

Since the loop is perpendicular to the line of the mast/boom rotation, it won’t work well using only off the shelf parts. I suggest you consider mounting a tang like the Garhauer BT-1 to the bottom of the mast instead. You can pin the boom to it similar to how I do it to my bracket. The boom will then rotate with the mast as it raises and lowers.

Great suggestion. Thanks!

Hmmm, this asks more questions for than answers. I don’t have the lower stays, nor do I have any of the attachment point on the mast that I can see. The thing is the boat is smaller 20′ vs 22′ I have no lifelines nor a rear rail, walking down the side of the boat would be a challange, never mind running lines while doing so. The mini stays have no place to attach to. Not sure how to go about raising the mast without help…even with this setup…

A smaller sailboat could indeed be trickier to step the mast single-handed since it has less rigging to aid the process. If you’re not committed to perfecting a single-handed technique, I’d suggest you consider a two-handed process with one crew member in the cockpit to steady the mast laterally while the second crew member pulls the mast up by the forestay or foresail halyard from the bow or on the ground in front of the bow. A mast crutch would also help in that case. Otherwise, you might be looking at extensive fabrications or commercial mast stepping hardware with a winch.

Where there’s a will, there’s a way!

How could your system be used with a furling 150 genoa on a Catalina 25?

Hello, Thomas

It could be used in a similar way on your C-25 with a couple of adjustments. First, your mast is longer and heavier than a C-22 so I would always use the boom as a gin pole. You’ll need the leverage for the extra weight, especially with the addition of the furler. Second and more importantly, you’d need to lift the furler as well as the mast somehow. I’d suggest using a main or spinnaker halyard to hold the mast and furler together. Wrap it around them from top to bottom before you lower the mast, then handle them as one unit until after you raise the mast again and unwrap the halyard to reconnect the forestay/furler. Use the jib halyard with its working end securely tied off instead of the forestay to connect the masthead to the boom/gin pole. The rest of the process would work the same.

Stay tuned because I’ll be publishing a post soon about choosing and using a furler with a trailerable sailboat.

Appreciate your reply Stingy. I need to carefully review your technique but it seems one’s boom would remain upward; although I’m sure you lower it when finished? Sorry for my ignorance. I’m also looking at the idea from the clever MacGregor 26 mast raising pole that uses a winch on the pole with baby stays with a special one to automatically keep the lowered furler up off the deck. I read about it on TropicalBoating ( https://www.tropicalboating.com/2010/04/the-perfect-solo-mast-raising-system-for-small-sailboats ). I’ll have a look at your mast crutch but I can’t use the gudgeons for the rudder as I’ll need to motor over to the Cave Run Lake (KY) boat launch for the haul out. Thanks!!

Winch-powered mast raising systems are a good choice for owners with impaired physical abilities. I might have to resort to one as I get older and am not able to do everything I once could. Beats giving up sailing!

One needs to attach a mast bail with the MacGregor 26 solo mast stepping system. I’m reluctant to drill into the mast though. This is my first cruiser (purchased in July) and I’ve much to learn from your blog. I was only introduced to sailing two years ago when I bought a Sunfish.

My C-25 teak companionway/hatchboards need replacement after 20 years, probably all standing rigging needs replacement even though it all looks fine at deck level (in the Lake continuously since ‘08), etc., etc. I pulled two through hull Airmar transducers out to check them and found only thin layer of algae on them – tells me the lake water has been very clean. The old KVH display is dead so I’ll switch it out (plugging holes with marine plastic and epoxy) with a new RayMarine i40.

I see that the boom is removed of course in your video. I also see the stress on the mast crutch essentially dictates one use the transom gudgeons for support. I had thought I could use 1” pipe secured to the stanchions but then there would not be enough telescoping height available either. You’ve devised a very clever approach- I’ve never remounted my boom so will need how I can attach it to the fore ring on the step plate.

You might consider modifying my crutch design so that the bottom end rests in the cockpit sole forward of the transom instead of on the rudder gudgeons. It would probably need additional support or to be fastened to the mast to keep it from falling over. Offset to one side a little, you should still be able to use your rudder to steer. That, or use the outboard tiller instead of the rudder to get to the ramp if you can. I do that sometimes.

Just what I have been looking for to give me some information to guide me in raising and lowering the mast for maintenance on my 26 foot Grampian without the expensive use of a crane this spring.

Hi, I like your idea of the mast raising system without a gin pole. Does your block & tackle include a ratchet or brake? Thanks!

Hello, Laura

Since I use my mainsheet tackle, no, but if you want to use a separate tackle, that would be a good idea.

Thanks, $tingy

Sure beats my system of using 2 sons to help out, they’re never around when you need them !

Thanks for the video on the no pole lift, that’s pretty much how I need to do it though I usually am working on the hard before getting a lift in.

I have tried raising the mast as you show in the video. I have the same quick release. But when I try to lift the mast with the forstay can’t do. I’m wondering maybe your mast is lighter or do I have the wrong set up to raise mast. I have the mast step which I can raise for a better angle…but it’s not happening.

Hello, Mark

Are you using a gin pole or trying to lift it only by the forestay? Either way, it takes quite a bit of strength to get the mast up that first few feet since you’re not pulling directly vertically on the masthead. If you’re not able to do it by yourself, you might need a helper for at least that part of the setup.

Dear sir My name is Mark Monteverdi. I have followed your web site for a while…and always turned out good. I have looked at the mast rising video countless times. I have the quick release for the shrouds. I’m guessing you are using a basic vang ? Well either I’m very weak or i have the vang set up incorrect or my mast is made of different material …when i go to raise my mast it will fall off to one side it just feels as though I’m pulling a truck up a hill. If you would be kind enough to send a pic of what ever type of pulley system i would greatly appreciate that very much. It’s hard to get any one to go sailing with me and that’s more just so i have some one to push and one work the winch. Thank you Mark

I’m sorry to hear you’re having trouble. When raising or lowering my mast, it too will tend to swing to one side or the other until it’s about half way up and the upper shrouds tighten and hold it centered the rest of the way up. That’s why I always have at least one hand on the mast to keep it centered during the lower half of the lift. I use the standard C-22 main sheet tackle which has a 3:1 mechanical advantage. You could use a stronger tackle (try 4:1) if you need the additional lifting power. You can see the whole main sheet in the video in Quit Spending Setup Time on Turnbuckles .

Hope that helps, $tingy

Hi Stingy Sailor, First of all, thanks for all your tips, tricks, and videos. Your site is awesome and very helpful! I have a C-25 with swing keel so most of all your tips are applicable, very nice, and handy. I really like your mast securing device located at the bow for trailering; easy and simple. I was wondering if you do have the drawings available for it so I could use it to build my own? Thanks! Alex

I did not make a fabrication drawing for the pulpit saddle because of the complex angles of the railing cutouts. Most readers wouldn’t be able to cut them accurate enough, so it’s a trial and error fit. Lay your material centered across the top of the pulpit, trace the railing edges onto the underside of the material, then cut a little at a time until the saddle sits down securely over the rails. Do the same with the mast on top of your material and you’re done.

Good morning, what a beautiful boat you have there ! that is an ingenious way to raise a mast,nice work ! I am curious about what the black,plastic/rubber item is that looks like it’s attached to the stern rail by the mast crutch @ 2:45 of the first video Please respond because my curiosity is killing me because I don’t get it. Thanks, Mick

You can read all about it in Add a Solar-Powered Flood Light in Your Cockpit .

Hi! I just subscribed to your blog, and I’d like the instructions for building a mast crutch like yours. Wasn’t sure whether that would be sent out automatically, or whether I needed to specifically ask for them. Thanks!

Lenny, You can find a dimensioned drawing of the mast crutch on my Downloads page if you’re a subscriber. The password to open that page was sent to you when you subscribed. $tingy

Raising the Mast of a Small Sailboat with The Resourceful Sailor — The Solo Version

It’s been a while since we’ve heard from The Resourceful Sailor. Since he lowered the mast on his boat Sampaguita last June, he’s been busy taking care of several boat projects. Now he’s back on deck and has sent us this detailed report on raising the mast.

What goes down must go up? After a rig refit, the mast of Sampaguita , a Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20, was ready to be raised. Still in her Port Townsend slip, the process was, generally, the opposite of lowering, presented in ‘Lectronic Latitude on June 16, 2021 — Lowering the Mast on a Small Sailboat with The Resourceful Sailor .

It required the same bridle setup. The boom, again, would act as a gin pole to gain the proper angle for leverage. The mainsheet block and tackle would do the heavy lifting. Rather than write the same thing again, I will focus on the differences between the two procedures and provide some previously left-out insights. In doing this, I will presume that you have read or will review the installment mentioned above.

For raising, only the cap shrouds and the headstay needed to be attached to their respective chainplates. Out of respect for Murphy’s Law, the other wires were secured tightly to the mast to mitigate their inclination to get snagged. Snagged wires like to kink, and whether new or old, it is unsatisfying, not to mention detrimental to their longevity and strength. The turnbuckles were wrapped in rags and secured to the mast, preventing them from scratching and banging into anything (everything.)

The bridle setup was more challenging to organize with the rig down than up. Since I had new wires, I needed to re-seize the stainless steel rings to the cap shrouds. It required holding up the wire to determine the proper pivot points with the mast. Then the opposing force lines to the lower stay chainplates were added, conceptualizing the rigid triangle necessary to maintain the pivot points. With the rig up, it is easier to build and see this. But down, it is a floppy mess. Then, a line was attached to each ring, ready to lead to a bail on the boom. A block and tackle served nicely for this on one side for ease of adjustment. These guylines will provide the opposing forces to keep the boom centered.

After that, I moved the mast to the tabernacle and pinned its base in the ready position. A final review of the halyard and wire leads and spreader orientations was done. A reminder: Always be on the lookout for snagging wires and lines whenever you move the mast.

The boom, as a gin pole, could then be added. When lowering, it was already in position and there was only the matter of attaching the bridle lines. However, with the mast down, the boom would be attached starting in a vertical position, which involved some boat yoga. I shackled the mainsheet and topping lift to its outer end. Lots of slack was fed into those lines, allowing for lifting it straight up. While holding it so, I pinned the mast end to the gooseneck. I picked up the previously-led guylines (the line and the block and tackle) and attached them to the boom bail. I tightened and adjusted the mainsheet, the topping lift, and the guylines until the boom was centered and vertical. The opposing forces held the gin pole in place.

With the correct bridle setup, the mast base in the tabernacle, and the gin pole in place, it was simply a matter of hoisting the mast. On a Flicka 20, the round bar traveler and the four-part mainsheet block and tackle are very accommodating to providing the mechanical advantage necessary for raising and lowering the mast. To a soloist, this advantage was indispensable. It took two hands and a bit of leaning to get it moving, but it became easier as it went higher. An eye was kept on the centerline alignment of the mast and boom, making sure the bridle prep was accurate, and watching that the wires did not snag.

The accompanying video shows the raising from a first-person view and solo. In contrast to lowering the mast, gravity is less of a friend, so the ascent is slower, with a bit more heave-ho. There is no shame in re-lowering the mast to adjust the bridle lines or sort out the wires. It is better to correct them early than to think something will be all right when it is not. Raising and lowering the mast is not rocket science, but 99% of the gig is proper preparation. If something goes wrong, it could be catastrophic, so double- and triple-check. It can be intimidating at first, but it is simple physics and simple tools at work. Remember, keep it safe and prudent, and have a blast.

This is so stressful to watch! I would have never had the courage to do it myself. As always, you have my respect and admiration. Well done!

Rusty, thanks for the kind words, and thanks for reading.

Joshua, Thank you for taking the time for so nicely relaying your experiences on single-hand stepping the mast on your Flicka. I am currently refining this design process for my own boat, and am thus interested in the finer details. My initial questions are two: First, concerning the method and material for seizing the bridle to the cap shrouds: As you state, a properly rigged bridle is key to making the process work. How did you analyze the adequacy of your seizing method and the loads that would be experienced?

Temporary seizing is a good place to start for me, but since I do this spring and fall every year, I have considered incorporating a more permanent nicropress and cable pigtail for the ring attachment (the loads there are not very high). A triangular plate in the top shroud with attachment points for the bridle connection points would be nicer, but more expensive to implement. Either way, it is probably prudent to use a temporary seizing first, to demonstrate dimensional functionality prior to a permanent solution. Second, I am sure you release the cap shrouds to allow the bridle arrangement some up/down movement as a result of the mast butt movement in the tabernacle during stepping. Somehow I must have missed that. Once upon a time I tried raising the mast with very slack uppers (guessing at what was needed instead of graphical analysis or calculations) instead of the bridle approach (all else was like your scenario). Because the slack was inadequate and no bridle, I managed to bend my boom out of alignment. :o(. A good machine shop worked that out. As long as the mast remains vertical through the lift, there isn’t much load on that ring connection, but its job is keeping the mast in a vertical/perpendicular orientation through the lift. But if some kind of unforeseen incident would create shock loading on the seized ring, (say even 2 pounds of lateral movement (force at the truck) that would correlate to about 56 foot-pounds of moment (engineering statics) applied at the ring due to the long lever arm of the mast. If it were 5 pounds force perpendicular at the top of the mast, it would correlate to up to 140 foot pounds. In my view, a shock load of 5 pounds or maybe more, isn’t an unlikely scenario, considering Murphy. I can’t think of a way to analyze the strength of the seizing, and prayer does not work for me. So, how did you analyze the adequacy of your seizing method and what did you use? Wire? In my case, I have been stepping my mast at least annually, on my Lancer 25 for more than 35 years. I usually do it on the hard, or in the water if launching was via travel lift or something else that dictated the mast needed to be down when launched. But in at least one case, years ago, while sailing near Cowichan Bay at Vancouver Island, the jib wire jumped the sheave (a result of rough water and a slack line while dousing the jib) at the truck, and jammed along-side of the sheave when I tried to pull the sail down. I wasn’t sure of the problem at the time, but the sail definitely was not coming down, so I wrapped the jib halyard around the forestay to try to contain the partially-filled sail and considered my options. Luckily, upon checking my depth sounder, and found some shallow 30’ water (unheard of up there) and dropped the hook (probably on a rock bottom) and it held well enough for the task at hand. My mate always helped tail the line connected to the backstay at the winch and through a clam cleat to hold things if I needed a rest. I just loosened and released the rigging as necessary, muscle-dropped the mast and used the dinghy to go forward and sort things out. It was a very high reach, but I was successful. After I got the mast back up it started to rain….. I later drilled a hole in the truck to insert a stainless wire restraint, so the halyard cable could not be thrown off the sheave again. I have toyed with analyzing more mechanical methods for raising the mast now that I am older, less strong, and my first mate has passed on. That is what piqued my interest on your article. The Flicka is ready-made (Bingham designed it in; I am sure) for this raising procedure. The Flicka doesn’t have many complications, since there are double lowers in perfect position for the bridle attachment, and the cap shrouds are neatly centered to the mast. The Lancer is not so nice. It has a single set of lowers, and the chain plate has about 1” between the 2 connections for uppers and lowers. These are also set about 3” aft of mast centerline. The original Lancer design was a tabernacle (not exactly the proper technical term, but we will go with it) with the slot in the tabernacle tabs, and a through bolt for securing the mast. I would say this is the usual case for production trailer sailor boats. I have never been wild about the uneven up-and-down friction-prone mast butt action and the associated movement reflected in the rigging connections during stepping. I do have a strong toe rail to connect the bridle, but the chain-plate bridle connection will not work geometrically. I have purchased a hinged tabernacle plate from Ballinger Spars, which will smooth out the rotational process down there. However, the negative thing it does, is place the pivot point about 3” in front of the mast centerline. The hinge movement is forward of the mast (eccentric) and translates to about 3” up-and-down movement (tensioning or slacking) of the cap shroud/ bridle assembly while stepping the Lancer mast. With the eccentric hinged plate pivot, (while rotating up), the mast butt raises momentarily for about 1/4” (slackening the rigging) and then drops down 3” (requiring an equal amount of rigging slack or things will go into tension, which is no good). The shrouds or bridle assembly must allow a lengthening of 3” during rotation of the mast butt into final position (as determined by graphical analysis). On lowering, the movement is opposite, so the shrouds will slacken throughout rotation without causing any tension problems, and there is plenty of play being created to keep any stresses from developing. I suppose the key in my case is to set the bridle configuration when the mast I up, thus ‘dimensionally building in’ the 3” movement required into the bridle/shroud system. Thoughts? The following is an analysis of the forces on the Lancer rigging dimensions and mast weight: The mast (Kenyon 3550) is 28’ long and weighs in at 62 pounds. I arbitrarily rounded to 70 pounds for these calculations. The moment to initiate lifting the mast is 980 foot pounds. (28’x half the mast length x70 pounds – assume equal weight distribution per foot.). That is to say, if the mast is on the ground and you lift one end, it will take 35 pounds force through a distance of 28 feet (=980 foot pounds of moment acting on the mast to lift one end off of the ground). But in raising the mast, the force is pulling more aft than up (requiring vector analysis which I will get to). I am currently considering a 10’ jibboom mounted at the hinge point and not higher on the mast where the boom lives, which changes the numbers- (no bending forces on the mast – which are not really great enough to mean much to the 3550). Also in the Flicka case, boom length (as with lancer) is probably about 8’. A 10’ jibboom lowers the forces more than an 8’, but using the existing spar is practical. It is probably prudent for me to reconsider and re-calculate using the boom in its usual position. A few years ago, I designed and had a fitting made to connect a jibboom to the mast foot, so I was considering using it. So, running the numbers based on the Lacer backstay distance to the mast and initial lay of the mast, it would take (rounded) 103 pounds of tension in the backstay from the mast truck to the jibboom, and 125 pounds of tension from the jibboom to the backstay connection point. Compression loading in the 10’ boom is 114 pounds. Yes, one can use Eulers equation to analyze buckling forces, but I didn’t do it. Following good engineering practice with a factor of safety of at least 2, these numbers would be double the values shown for design checking of adequacy of rigging and spars. Confirming your experience, as the mast goes up, the center of gravity moves aft, requiring less and less force to raise the mast (and the geometry is changing) to increase efficiency of the forces as the mast goes up. 30degrees=858 ft lbs, 45 degrees=700 ft lbs, 70 degrees=350 ft lbs. 70 degrees into the lift, it would equate to 10 pounds of perpendicular force applied at the top (the center of mast mass has shifted to only 5’ in front of the final mast position). With a 4:1 ratio applied on the backstay, the pull on the line is about 31 pounds force for the Lancer System. The Flicka system is somewhat more (I don’t have the dimensions to analyze it), but from your description it was probably 40 pounds or less to start the raise, and then the tension required reduces as the mast goes up. Since the pull for the lancer scenario calculates in at around 31 pounds, I am planning to run the bitter end of the 4:1 through a block at the stern, to the bow, through a blocks on the bow, and use the anchor windlass to pull the mast up (the windlass maximum has 400 pounds of tension available). So even with friction losses, there should be no issue. I have a windlass switch in the cockpit, and a second hand-held remote at the forward hatch. It is a very convenient setup for going forward and guiding the mast or sorting out issues. Also, after my spouse passed, I put a winch at about 5’ high on the mast, and I ran the raising line there, instead of needing someone tailing at the cockpit. It is easier (almost necessary) to have a helper with me at the mast. I have lowered the mast alone with this manual system by taking wraps on the winch and playing out slack while catching the mast. However, without a jibboom, the forces are tougher to man-handle alone at the end of the lowering process. Comments are appreciated, as there is always something else to be considered or learned. Thanks

Jim, Thanks for reading and taking the time to engage. You have certainly been thinking about this! You get far deeper into the physics than I ever have and I suspect, many readers and sailors. Regarding seizing the rings on, I don’t overthink it. I have some net twine and I wrap and figure-eight it until I am sure it is strong enough. They are not permanent installations but are easy for me to put on as needed. Thoughtful marlinspike would make a nice permanent install. I have seen a different Flicka install that had the cap shroud turnbuckle placed at the pivot point. This removed the need for a seized-on ring and also gave a nice pivot point that does not bend the wire. Kinking the wire is my big concern, but the forces and the pivot point have not been high enough to do this, so without doing the physics calculation, the stress is low. Regarding the extra slack in the cap shrouds to accommodate that extra lift that occurs as the mast tips forward, no, I did not mention it, but it is a thing. I learned of that when I did not have them slack enough on a lowering. I recognized what was happening, so rather than forcing it, I backed off, adjusted, and restarted. Article scope naturally means some things are left out. That is good intel on bending your boom though. I have found on a sailboat, that if something feels like it is not running free, something is wrong. I don’t force it.

Thanks for the reply, Joshua.

I am leaning toward installing a permanent 4-hole triangular plate in the cap shroud at the bridle connection. This would create clear movement for hinge point attachments, and address stresses that can occur there. The rest is just a matter of rigging things up.

Best wishes in the new year.

Rise Up! How to Raise Your Sailboat Mast

Posted by Zoran Glozinic | Dogwatch , Projects , Sails & Canvas

Spring is here and marinas will soon be filled with mast-raisers. And while the world is filled (to the brim?) with mast-raising solutions, I have another. I believe my method is possibly the simplest solution most applicable to a wide range of boats. It allows a sailor to raise a mast independently, without a crane, affording freedom. It also enables a sailor to do it by themself. And while most mast-raising solutions require various panoply of items a sailor needs to either purchase or fabricate—various gin poles, A-frames, lifting poles, winches, 2×6 boards, lawn-mower wheels, and mast supports mounted to rudder fittings on the transom—and while sailors who trailer their boats to various waters have to carry all of that with them, the solution I’ve come up with uses a very small amount of extra equipment, so small it can almost be carried in one’s pocket.

Everything rigged and mast ready to be raised with a tug on the mainsheet.

So, what is required and how do you rig it?

First, to use my solution, your mast should have a mast base/step or tabernacle on which the mast can pivot. This is common.
Next, there will need to be an attachment point on either side of the boat, aligned with the mast pivoting point—athwartships and on the same axis. You might need to get creative here because each boat is different. The two attachment points (eyes are fine) can be permanent (as in this photo), or they can be made using a steel ring and two short lengths of steel wire or chain temporarily attached to an existing hardpoint. The wider these attachment points are spaced, the better, because they serve as hardpoints to attach two sets of temporary shrouds.
About seven feet above the mast step (or as high as you can comfortably reach up the mast when it’s vertical) on either side of the mast, there must be tangs or permanent mounts to attach the mast-supporting set of temporary shrouds. I used a length of ¼-inch threaded rod that passes through the mast and through two small hardwood blocks and two small tangs made from mild steel. I install these tangs when needed, using wingnuts. When sailing, there is nothing on the mast to snag halyards, and the two small holes are not something I worry about.

And that is it for boat modifications.

Mast successfully raised, note the athwartships attachment points on the dorade boxes and the two sets of temporary shrouds.

A close-up view of the athwartships attachment points.

To raise and lower the mast, I rig things and operate as follows. In this example, the mast is attached to a pivoting base and stowed lowered onto the bow pulpit.

Between the athwartships attachment points and the mast tangs, I attach a set of temporary shrouds. These I made from coated wire rope (the same as used for lifelines). These will remain taut for the duration of the mast raising or lowering (because they’re attached on the same axis on which the mast pivots) and serve to prevent the mast from swaying from side to side.
I attach the boom like I’m ready to sail, 90 degrees to the mast, connected to the gooseneck fitting and with the topping lift and end-of-boom mainsheet rigged. I use the main halyard and boom downhaul to keep the gooseneck fixed (so it cannot slide up or down, if track-mounted).
Between the athwartships attachment points and the clew end of the boom, I attach a second set of temporary shrouds. These I made from low-stretch braided line and they will also remain taut for the entire mast raising and lowering.
Once all set, I pull on the mainsheet (rigged with 4:1 block-and-tackle for purchase) to raise the mast. It’s relatively easy and the mast remains in control; I can stop and start at any point in the process if needed.

If my mast was instead pivoted aft and stowed on an aft-rail support, I could still use the same method, but I would have to attach a separate gooseneck fitting on the front of the mast and some separate running rigging to function as the topping lift does.

Happy spring mast raising!

One nice-to-have modification I’ve made is to the pulpit where my mast rests when stowed. I made a wooden mast support mounted on the bow rail. The rubber roller has two positions: the lower position is used for winter mast storage, and the upper position allows for easy mast sliding, fore and aft, when getting it to the exact position in order to install (remove) the pivoting bolt/pin at the mast base or tabernacle. When not in use, I stow this support at the bottom of a sail locker.

About The Author

Zoran Glozinic

Zoran Glozinic is a retired business professional who has been messing around in boats and old cars all his life. He currently lives in Laval, Quebec, where he divides his free time between a good old English bilge-keel boat and a 16-year-old Saab car.

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18-10-2019, 10:07
Boat: Columbia T-26	my gin pole !! Left it at a .. Was a nice pole as well, welded with a pin that fit perfectly into a drilled hole in my , it came with the when I bought it, worked flawlessly. Definitely need it to lift/lower my . Anyone have any ideas on building a new one ? I have some good thick galvanized pipe from another that will be long enough but I'm scratching my at the moment as to what to do next. I was thinking of cutting and threading the pipe and use a "T" and some pipe on either end cut to the width of my mast and drill some holes into the pipes attached to the "T" and buy some long threaded bolts and a clamp so I can tighten the clamp around the mast with wing nuts. On the other end of the pipe use another T that I can pass the through or over and so on..I could be overthinking it though. Our local welder is as slow as mud getting anything done thats small and simple (ask him to build you or a T top and hes on top of it lol) so I'm wondering if I can build a gin pole without having to get anything welded. Any Ideas would be most appreciated. I did a general search on the topic but could'nt find many post on the subject.

18-10-2019, 10:16
Boat: Mariner 39	gin pole like? What are you using to tension the during lifting/lowering?

18-10-2019, 10:36
Boat: Columbia T-26	, the top of my lost gin pole had a large shank welded to it so I used to attach the forestay (roller furler) to it and I have a telescoping on my that I also attached to the eye. It was a good system. Kept me out of harms way and on the ground where I could watch the mast while I raised it to make sure it went up straight. I also had the option where I could attach block and tackle to the gin pole and the forestay and use one of the winches to raise it from the .

18-10-2019, 10:39
Boat: Columbia T-26

18-10-2019, 16:09
Boat: Mariner 39

18-10-2019, 16:42
Boat: Columbia T-26	gudgeons !! Why didnt I ever think of building something like that years ago lol..I have an A frame I lug around in the back of my truck and every time I set it up in the I have to find new ways to secure it and the mast gets hung up on it when I slide it up or down to prepare the mast for trailering. The rest of the system looks pretty straight forward to build and rig. Im . Going to get started on building it. I think Ill look at the McGregor website and see how much that raising pole is. If its reasonable will just order one.

18-10-2019, 17:14
Boat: Columbia T-26

18-10-2019, 17:46
Boat: Mariner 39	solutions. I heard complaints about the mast crutch that it can rotate on the gudgeons, and that the ears are too tall; they catch on the stays while sliding the mast between trailering and stepping positions. Someone suggested a wider roller with no ears worked really well. Whatever you end up with, I would love to see pictures!

18-10-2019, 18:00
Boat: Columbia T-26	is the way to go in building the crutch although I liked the telescoping aspect of the pole for transporting. I'll see what I can come up with and post pics on here. Same as that, if you make any headway on it would be great to see your progress.

18-10-2019, 18:02
Boat: Woods Vardo 34 Cat	thru sheave in the top. Stayed aft to some stanchion. Does not rotate with the mast but is a fixed fairlead. Have done up to 40' mast on 29" this way. 12' step ladder works also

18-10-2019, 18:10
Boat: Columbia T-26	! The ladder sounds like the quickest solution

18-10-2019, 19:06
Boat: 39' Custom built junk rigged cat ketch	and cranked it right up. I set up the lowers and backstay first of course.

18-10-2019, 19:19
Boat: Columbia T-26	as a quick solution. The is blowing nice n steady this week-end and I know if I get into a long drawn out building a gin pole that'll be Saturday gone. I'd much rather just get the mast up and go sailing tomorrow. So would I would drill tap the base of the mast and screw in an eye shank then attach the boom to the shank and use it same as a gin pole ?

18-10-2019, 19:34
Boat: Southwind 21 et al.	materials to build a telescoping mast crutch are about 40$ US from a warehouse that cuts to length. I did mine based on the plans from the $tingy Sailor website. A co-worker helped me with the welding (I can weld too...but am not set up to weld at home). It has proven useful for raising the mast and for towing with the mast down. I use the main sheet 4:1 to raise and lower, clipping one end to the pole and the other near the on the . PS Maybe post a sign offering a reward for the pole? PPS Maybe just lash something together to get on the this weekend?

18-10-2019, 20:02
Boat: Columbia T-26	due to the fact I used a A frame as a crutch. It's limited me from crossing the ocean side to the bay due to low bridges so I have to trailer the boat and launch it on one side or the other and in the keys that just seems like a silly thing to have to do. If I come up with a better system than I have now might be able to actually get under the bridges. Ill get a look at the Stingy Sailor thankyou.

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Basics of Mast Raising

IF you have the luxury of a mast crane, then all it needs is a sturdy rope strop around the mast and under the spreader - typically just above the center of gravity of the mast – and you’re all set. Of course, you need to pre-think the attachment so that you can pull it down from the mast after it’s in place, but that’s not so complicated … even a light line snapped on, can work as long as you’re not wrapped around 2 sets of diamonds! Otherwise you may be climbing the mast before you even go sailing ;-)

But most of us on relatively small boats that are trailed to the launch site, need to get equipped to raise and lower your mast independent of cranes … and often while alone. So here are the basics.

The mast needs a pivot bolt at the mast base , that’s located athwartships, so that the mast cannot rotate on it’s axis, but can pivot down, either fore or aft. Which way you go will depend on the deck arrangement and pivot height. As the distance from mast step to the stern is typically longer than to the bow, lowering aft makes more sense for mast support when down .. but with some boats, the cabin top or hatchway is higher than the pivot and then it’s easier to lower the mast forward, even if it means making a temporary support for the mast either on the ground or on your tow vehicle. Some boats have a raised tabernacle for the pivot in order to clear the cabin, so that’s another solution for lowering aft.

You’ll need a crutch to support the mast when it’s down .. and if you can incorporate a roller on this crutch it’s good to do so, as the mast will almost certainly need to be rolled or slid back over the boat once down, in order to limit the overall length for trailing.

For raising (or lowering) you will need these basics:

A gin pole to give you lifting leverage. This needs to be able to take the compression while lifting (figure on at least double the mast weight) and be not less than 1/4 the mast length. The closer this is mounted to the mast pivot the more effective it is, but a boom mounted on a sturdy gooseneck that’s not too high up the mast still works.

Side guys to keep both the gin pole AND the mast itself, close to the boat centerline. If fixed in length, these lines need to be attached to a pivot as far outboard as practical, and with an eye at the same height as the pivot bolt for the mast foot. Such an attachment can be arranged either with a bracket or raised stanchion that’s temporarily bolted to the boat (or ama in the case of a trimaran), or can also be rigged to an type of bridle at the boat side. Such a bridle needs a strong ring to which the side guy is attached and then have lines forward and aft that are adjustable so that when under tension, the ring is brought to be in line both horizontally and fore & aft with the mast pivot bolt. Setting this up is tricky the first time, but after the attachment points are established and the ropes are marked, one can easily set it up to those marks in future and know that the ring will be well located. Periodically check for line stretch though.

Guys for the mast itself, can sometimes be the actual shrouds, as long as they are not initially too long and that they use adjustable tackles to tension them. Sometimes a mast is equipped with lower shrouds that can be used or even trapeze lines, as IF the mast is kept close to the centerline, the side load will not be high.

Guys for the Gin Pole , can either be dedicated lines that are fixed in length and snapped to a location in line with the mast pivot .. OR they can be a part of the tackle that is used for hauling up the mast itself. Such a system is used by the Dragonfly Boats – rigged with two lifting lines, one port and one starboard. EACH of these lines are fixed to the ama near the aft beam and run up to a block at the end of the gin pole (or boom) and then back down to a block on the centerline at the stern and then forward to a winch. So there will be two blocks at each location ... at the boom/ginpole end, and at the rear of the cockpit. The two lines go around the winch together.

Typically the main halyard is used while raising the mast …, running from the upper end of the gin pole (or boom), through the mast head sheave and down the mast to a sturdy cleat near the mast base, well tied off. From the underside of the gin pole (or boom), the mainsheet is often snapped on to haul the gin pole back to raise the mast .. or if the mast was laying aft and is being raised forward while on a trailer, then the boat winch line can be used, snapped to the underside of the gin pole end (or boom), so that the trailer winch itself can be used to do the raising work.

If the boat is not on a trailer, a multi-part tackle (4,5 or 6 parts may be required) can be attached to the end of a bowsprit to raise the mast. Both these system have successfully been used to raise the wing mast on a W17 trimaran, though using the trailer winch with a dedicated gin pole that pivots on the same pin as the mast, has proven to be the faster method.

Just a word about the crutch for the mast. The preference for a roller has already been mentioned. This crutch needs to be as high as practical as then the starting load to lift the mast is reduced. At the same time the upper-mast-tip still needs to be within local height clearances for trailing .. so generally preferable to stay around 10ft (3m) or so. In the case of the W17, the crutch is dropped into the stern well and slopes aft at about 35-40 deg from the vertical. (The crutch in the photo below, shows it much too low, after the lines slipped during a long trip) . The mast should lower to the crutch with the spreaders forward of it, so that they do not make things difficult to roll the mast forward to the trailing position after the mast is lowered. See also this article on Handling the W17 ashore .

If lowering the mast forward, then a crutch on your towing vehicle can help give good height, or otherwise you may need a temporary stand or tripod on the ground, that has a central support that you can raise by hand and then clamp or pin in place … as the higher this is, the less load you will have on the lifting lines. (I even have an old paddle with a notch in its blade that fits the mast section. A tall crew member can then give the mast a push up at the beginning of the lift to reduce the starting lift load).

In conclusion, there are MANY ways to raise a mast, but unless your whole rig is non-standard, they generally are all variants of what is described above. Check everything twice to see all ropes and parts are well attached and not entangled, and you’ll be fine.

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Gin-Pole Mast raising system

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I need to fit my Mac26 with a mast raising system. I know it just a pole and some blocks. I called bwyachts and they tell me I have to buy the new kit (crank wench) for $250.00! Anybody know a place where I can get my hands on a gin-pole?!

Most gin-poles I've seen are dock-mounted, manual (hand winch) cranes used for stepping and unstepping masts from boats that pull up alongside. Are you asking about a system to raise and lower your deck-stepped mast, by pivoting at the tabernacle? If so, most folks just use a spinnaker or whisker pole, or the boom, as the offset.

thanks for the clarification John I was guessing that it was called a gin-pole. Maybe I can just get a spinnaker pole. I would be hesitant to use me boom because I keep my sail folded up in it. I was hoping that someone might know of a good outlet website that may have a lot of spare parts.

Here, take a look at this article from Good Old Boat .

Are you positive that you need one? For my SJ21, I shackle my jib halyard (extra long for the purpose, I used to use a bit of stout line with a bowline in each end as an extension) to the bow eye, then just walk the mast forward and haul in the slack on the halyard as I go. Once I get the mast upright I haul the jib halyard good and tight into the cam cleat and then I can leisurely walk forward and secure the stays. If I get a snag on the way up I just cleat off and deal with it. I know that I have seen posts on other forums by mac 25/26 owners talking about performing a similar procedure.

You can also use a simple A-frame to do this. The advantage of an A-frame is that it can help keep the mast aligned fore-and-aft properly while raising or lowering it.

Mast stepping A frame. I just finished a mast raising system on my Helsen 22'. It is 12v operated and is glass laid over my deck. When it is down, you can barely see it. This might be a little over the top, but take a look. You can see it on Youtube, just type in "mast stepping A frame" and you should reach it, also on my channel is a 12v operated keel, Bob.

rbrown77138 said: I just finished a mast raising system on my Helsen 22'. It is 12v operated and is glass laid over my deck. When it is down, you can barely see it. This might be a little over the top, but take a look. You can see it on Youtube, just type in "mast stepping A frame" and you should reach it, also on my channel is a 12v operated keel, Bob. Click to expand...

lydanynom, I'm not really positive about anything on this boat yet. I new to cruisers. It seem that if I just use the bow plate, there would be too much tension on the 88 plate and cleats. without a pole the angle seem to acute and I thing getting the mast up would require too much muscle.

The trailerable Hunters use a gin pole system for mast raising (I beleive Hunter has a video, or link to it, on using the system). Basically, the mast has a hole in the front section into which the pole is inserted. The pole has two opposing eyes on the other end. The jib halyard is hooked to the top one, and the mainsheet (4 to 1) is hooked to the other, as well as to the anchor padeye in the anchor locker. You then use the mainsheet to raise the mast (with the side shrouds in place). I could raise my 28 foot mast on my H26 by myself.

Wow! $250.00 is a lot, I think I paid $160.00 for my new one and I still have the old one. The old one is for a 26X, the new ones are for the 26M but work on the others. What Mac 26 model do you have? The gin pole kits are specifically made for MacGregor boats that is why they charge a premium and the new ones come with a brake winch so they are a bit pricier. The old ones like my old one incorporate the use of the headsail winch to hoist the mast from the cockpit whereas the new ones have the winch on the gin pole so you can just stand there and crank up the mast. Perhaps you would like my old one???

I'm resurrecting this older thread to get some clarification on an idea on saw on the Cape Horn site ( Mast Stepping System ). Gelinas describes using a "hinge" on the cap shrouds (upper shrouds), which, from what I gather, is something like this: http://hayn.com/marine/rigging/images_rigging/RF12.gif . It's not clear to me how this would attach to the shroud, or how it would remain in position - in line with the mast step - while lowering or raising the mast. If someone could explain this to me better, I'd appreciate it. Is this hinge permanently attached, perhaps? (I realize there are other ways to skin a cat, I'm only asking about this one method and how this "hinge" works. I was planning on bringing my mast down using a pole and "shrouds" passing through a ring held in place by lines going in four directions, but this use of the cap/upper shrouds was new to me.) (bonus material: While trying to find an image for what I was just describing, I ran across this image, of what looks like a permanent setup to do the same thing Gelinas describes: http://www.yachtflyers.com/forum_images/PIVOT_BINGHAM.gif )

In the book "Sea Wolf" Jack London describes raising the masts on that vessel by the captain alone. It might not help you much, but it's a great read. lol

OK, a little bit more research indicates that it looks like Gelinas left out how he stabilizes the hinge on the cap shrouds, since I found a few descriptions that stress that the axis/pivot point should not change: "What you must do is stabilise the mast sideways as it goes down. Your SS plate lugs may be strong enough but there are many Al ones around here that snap off like chalk if the mast swings sideways. You can stabilise the mast easily with a mast head rig with cap shrouds square to the mast. You extend the chain plates with a tube so that the cap shroud can only pivot back from a point opposite the mast hinge. The tube is stayed forward by a wire or rope to stop it pivoting back. So the cap shrouds remain tight all the way from vertical to horizontal so no side sway. Read more at Is this mast foot designed for lowering without a crane? - Page 2 " I think I'll stick with the ring stabilized by lines and not worry about using the shroud for this.

Klacko Spars Ltd. of OAKVILLE!!! Never tried this but it looks like a slick system using the spinnaker pole car.

I haven't read all the replies so this may have already been said. Position the mast at the step. Lash your boom to the base of the mast at a 90. Use some nylon dock lines or anchor rode--you want stretchy--to guy it laterally by going from the top of your vertical boom, a full turn around the hull and up again on the other side. Set up the aft shrouds only. Use your mainsheet block from the top of your boom to a strong belay point near the bow. A helper can lift the mast as you work the block and tackle--the higher the mast gets, the easier it gets. Do it someplace/time when the water is calm. I did this a lot on a 22 foot boat so the forces on yours will obviously be greater, but if your gear will handle the weight and you set it up patiently, Archimedes will smile down on you. JV

I recently fiitted my 1971 Ranger 26 with a Ballinger hinged mast step so that I could step my own mast singlehandedly without using a crane.it worked, but only after a lot of research & planning. Like many of this vintage, Rangers are relatively heavy boats with heavy masts. Mine is about 33' high and weighs maybe 150-175 lbs . Because the spinnaker pole attachment ring rides on a track, I was able to position the spinnaker pole about 3 feet above the step & use it as a gin pole. The advantages were that I already had the pole & a secure way to attach it in place. The slight disadvantage was that ideally the pole should be attached at the mast step for maximum leverage, but it worked fine at approx 3' above that. The boat is 26 feet long & the spinnaker pole was about 12' long. Ideally, your gin pole should reach all the way to your forestay fitting on the bow, & the spinnaker pole was close enough. The absolutely crucial thing is to prevent either the pole or the mast from swinging athwartships once it's in the air. That was solved using the ingenious "no fear" bridle method published in Goid Old Bost Magazine 20 years ago: No Fear Mast Stepping! - Good Old Boat . I followed this design to the letter, using 2 rings & 3/16" line, but because I had no attachment point on the mast for the temporary bridle rope stays, I just looped the line over my spreaders on the opposite side, so I could just pull the line through once the mast was up. This also gave me a nice high stable attachment point for the 2 temporary mast stays. Two more stays ran from the ring to the top of the spinnaker pole. The 2 rings MUST be more or less perfectly in line with the pin on the hinged mast step, per the instructions. Using rope instead of, say, cable for the stays allows for some stretch iif the rings are slightly out of alignment, I used my mainsheet tackle for the lifting muscle, which was attached from the top of the spinnaker pole to the bow fitting. I had hoped my mainsheet line would be long enough to reach either the winch on the mast or cabin top for extra leverage, but it didn't. It worked anyway with effort on my part, but it would have been easier pulling the mainsheet line using a winch. This will be even more important when lowering the mast, as the force needed will INCREASE rather than decrease as it did while stepping. You might also use a second person to help pull, but I didn't have one.The details can be found in the GOB article, but you will also need to support the mast on the aft end of the boat on some kind of roller so you can roll it back into position to attach it to the hinged step. I just added a 9" boat trailer roller To my existing string winter cover support & it worked fine. Warning: once you roll the mast back to attach it to the step, the attachment end of the mast might tip into the air! I was able to keep it down with one hand bc it was more or less balanced but yours might not be! Also important: pin all of your slack stays in advance, especially your back stay & aft lowers before you lift. I was able to preattach all but the forward lowers & the forestay, obviously. Otherwise you could be in for a VERY nasty surprise once the mast is up bc you will need the back stay & aft Lowers to keep the mast from falling FOREWARD once it's up. I actually forgot to attach the backstay but luckily the aft lowers were able to keep the mast in place. It worked amazingly well overall using the GOB no-fear method. Neither the mast nor the pole swayed out of line at any point, and I was able to use the mainsheet cam to stop the lifting at any point to make sure All shrouds & lines were clear. Once the mast is up it's too late. I didn't take photos bc I was alone & "focused" shall we say on getting it right. Happy to provide photos & more specifics if contacted. It saves me several hundred dollars a year in boatyard stepping fees, but it's not for the faint of heart or sloppy.

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stepping the mast using a gin pole???

Thread starter centerline
Start date Mar 31, 2012
Macgregor Owner Forums
Ask A Macgregor Owner

I fully understand the mechanical advantage of using a gin pole to help with raising the mast, especially if it has a way to lock the raising line in place should the stays need untangled during the procedure. BUT.... I still fail to see what will keep the mast from going over sideways if it decides to.... until the shrouds start to come tight, it seems that there is absolutely no side thrust support..... i can see a better advantage if the gin pole was an a-frame affair that had its legs positioned one on each side of the deck to give it side-ways support, but the single legged gin pole seems like it will happily follow the mast when it decides to take a left turn about half way up.... anyone have thoughts on this, LOL..... I will probably have to come up with a solution to raise the mast by myself, and i would like it as simple and fool proof as possible. I have had some lessons learned the hard way and its not as much fun as it should be...

Baby stays.

timebandit said: Baby stays. Click to expand

Temporary stays. The trick is locating the attachment point on the deck where the tension remains constant. It's about 2" foward of the hinge pin and as far out on the raised sides of the cabin as you can get. If you make them even with the pin they will tighten as you raise the mast, due to the cuvature of the deck/roof. Here is a link to boat modifications at the sailboat knowledge base for Mac 25. If you click on the pdf link at the bottom you will find the pictures. http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_mtree&task=viewlink&link_id=6620&Itemid=257

centerline said: well thats simple enough to understand.... my boat doesnt have the baby stays, so i will have to figure out the a-frame system..... Click to expand

Before you go to all that trouble, try lifting the mast by hand, it takes two people the first couple of times, but I have been stepping my v222 mast solo for a couple of years without any problems. The most important thing is to get a Johnson lever for the forestay, get the bigger one. You use the jib halyard to old the mast up while you attach the forestay, and with the Johnson lever you don't have to adjust the forestay tension every time.

Do do the baby stays. Just place the deck attachments correctly. Make them even with the base of the mast. My first time around I placed them 2" forward and as the mast raised, they became looser, which made the mast wobble. Good luck, Dave

My instructions from BWY say; even with the back edge of the mast, 23 1/2" from the center of the boat.

Justin_NSA said: My instructions from BWY say; even with the back edge of the mast, 23 1/2" from the center of the boat. Click to expand

With my gin pole set up, I just walk along side the mast as it goes up to control side sway. This way I don't need to rig baby stays.

I use bridles that attach to existing deck hardware. Stays for the mast and the gin pole(spinnaker pole pulling double duty). I'm more than capable of lifting the mast without it, but seems like something gets snagged everytime.It only takes one time for an accident to happen that damages something or injures somebody. Make sure you are clear above ( power lines,trees,etc.) before you hoist.....;-). I have pictures in old posts ( using an iPad...no pics loaded)

centerline said: are these instructions for the mac21? Click to expand

flynfol said: .... seems like something gets snagged everytime.It only takes one time for an accident to happen that damages something or injures somebody.... Click to expand

flynfol said: I use bridles that attach to existing deck hardware. Stays for the mast and the gin pole(spinnaker pole pulling double duty). I'm more than capable of lifting the mast without it, but seems like something gets snagged everytime.It only takes one time for an accident to happen that damages something or injures somebody. Make sure you are clear above ( power lines,trees,etc.) before you hoist.....;-). I have pictures in old posts ( using an iPad...no pics loaded) Click to expand

Sumner said: We also store the gin pole and block and tackle below, just in case the mast had to come down on a trip./quote] I agree with everything Sum said. Couple things I do different though, is that I leave the baby stays in place all the time. And I store the gin pole on deck between two lifeline stanchions, out of the way and less clutter below. Click to expand

I agree with Sum also, but all I can say again is, I dont have a 26 with baby stays. I have a 21 that was never designed with them. I am trying to figure out where to install them.

centerline said: ... baby stays seem to be the cleanest option, but as the 21's dont have baby stays, I would add some temporary rigging stays if I knew the exact spot to attach them to the deck. also at what elevation to attach them to the mast..... it may be geometrically impossible to attach a stay that will remain a relatively constant distance/tension as the mast raises... due to the deck being lower than than the tabernacle by about 10 inches.. is it possible to find the sweet spot to do this?? Click to expand

Here is a video that shows you how easy it is with a DIY system. This guy is an older gentleman and if he can do it anyone can. As you get older you look to do things easier and smarter. The video is at the bottom of the page. http://www.sailingtexas.com/Movies/Macgregor26Me/macgregor26me.html

Doug91Mac26S said: ... And I store the gin pole on deck between two lifeline stanchions, out of the way and less clutter below... Click to expand

Sumner, thank you for the explanation. with that and the vids I have seen, it helps me understand what I need to do. everything I have seen and heard has had to do with the 26..... but I dont have a 26. I thought to myself that the stays shouldnt have to be snug all the way, or at any time, but how much side movement would be acceptable? with what you have given me I can see now what I have to do to get it going on..... thank you again.

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IMAGES

Gin-Pole Mast raising system
DIY Gin Pole
Gin Pole Mast Raising System
Tips
How to Step a Mast Single-Handed With or Without Using the Boom as a
It's like a gin pole that stays perpendicular to the deck rather than

VIDEO

Hoisting With A Spruce Gin Pole
Ep43 Building a Wharram Tiki 21 4K
Simple, No Weld Gin Pole on Trailer Hitch
J/88 Sailboat Mast stepping
Gin pole to assist in boarding a canoe
First Time Raising the Mast: Wings Like A Dove

COMMENTS

Raise or Lower a Mast with a Gin Pole
Andrew Price explains how to use a gin pole and assemble tackle to raise and lower a sailboat mast. This is a 30' mast on an O'Day 26, and the gin pole was m...
How to Step a Mast Single-Handed With or Without Using the Boom as a
Setting up the boom as a gin pole. The basic theory of a gin pole is to lift a heavy object below one end while it remains stationary at the other end. Support lines called guys position the lifting end over the object that is raised. A mast raising gin pole has one end stationary near the base of the mast, uses the forestay to support the lifting end, and uses a winch or a block and tackle to ...
No Fear Mast Stepping!
This is accomplished by the location and lengths of the two bottom lines. Clip the jib halyard to the uppermost eye on the gin-pole and bring it to an approximate 90-degree angle to the mast and tie it off. Next, secure one end of the boom vang (cleat end) to a point as far forward on the deck as possible and the remaining end to the top of the ...
Raise the mast of a small sailboat. Use an A frame gin pole, Catalina
Jim and Tony raise the mast of Bootstrap, a Catalina 22, sailboat using an A-frame gin pole and the trailer winch. A little slow, but not fuss--no muss.Jim'...
Easy sailboat mast raising for an O'day 23'.
I made a simple and effective gin pole for raising the mast on my 23' O'day Sailboat. It is simple and quick, and a solo sailor can put it up in about 10 mi...
Raising the Mast of a Small Sailboat with The Resourceful Sailor
Still in her Port Townsend slip, the process was, generally, the opposite of lowering, presented in 'Lectronic Latitude on June 16, 2021 — Lowering the Mast on a Small Sailboat with The Resourceful Sailor. It required the same bridle setup. The boom, again, would act as a gin pole to gain the proper angle for leverage.
Rise Up! How to Raise Your Sailboat Mast
And while most mast-raising solutions require various panoply of items a sailor needs to either purchase or fabricate—various gin poles, A-frames, lifting poles, winches, 2×6 boards, lawn-mower wheels, and mast supports mounted to rudder fittings on the transom—and while sailors who trailer their boats to various waters have to carry all ...
PDF Tips
Move to the winch and start cranking the mast up. Watch for shrouds and stays snagging along the way. The beauty of the gin pole combined with a bridle is that you can stop with the mast at any position if you need to step away to free something that has fouled. Your aft shrouds will keep the mast from going too far forward.
Ideas on building a DIY gin pole.
Posts: 522. Re: Ideas on building a DIY gin pole. On my previous boat I used the boom as the gin pole to raise the mast. I bolted a matching fitting to the front of the mast for the boom. Took a line to the windlass and cranked it right up. I set up the lowers and backstay first of course.
Basics of Mast Raising
For raising (or lowering) you will need these basics: A gin pole to give you lifting leverage. This needs to be able to take the compression while lifting (figure on at least double the mast weight) and be not less than 1/4 the mast length. The closer this is mounted to the mast pivot the more effective it is, but a boom mounted on a sturdy ...
The Perfect Solo Mast-Raising System for Small Sailboats
Above: A side view of the sailboat with the mast raising system ready for use. This system can be installed and used on nearly any small sailboat to make solo mast-raising easier. A closer look at the MacGregor mast raising pole and how it is attached to the mast. The MacGregor pole is a tiny trailer winch mounted on an aluminum tube with a ...
Mast Raising System (for 7.3)
A gin pole using my spinnaker pole provides leverage. The outer (rear) end of the pole is guyed to the wood rails exactly in line with the forward mast step pivot bolt. I sit on the mast near the bottom and remove the forward mast step pivot bolt then slide the lowered mast to the rear on top of the roller.
Making a Gin Pole
How do you make stepping your mast easier? You use a small crane with a block and tackle called a gin pole. Here is the gin pole we made for raising our mast...
Here is how I step the mast solo with a homemade gin pole
If that line slips down, the mast is going to come crashing down. You'd be much better off using the main halyard to hold the mast up. Tie the forward end of the main halyard to the forward crossbar or trailer mast stand, lift the mast up, and then pull the slack out of the halyard and cleat off on one of the jib cleats or the downhaul cleat ...
Gin-Pole Mast raising system
The trailerable Hunters use a gin pole system for mast raising (I beleive Hunter has a video, or link to it, on using the system). Basically, the mast has a hole in the front section into which the pole is inserted. The pole has two opposing eyes on the other end. The jib halyard is hooked to the top one, and the mainsheet (4 to 1) is hooked to ...
Gin Pole for Mast Stepping? Anyone have ...
That's ~17-1/2 feet from the butt of the mast. So you need a pole to lift it higher than that. My extra foot and a half (19' gin pole) is hardly too much. The point is not to have the thing hanging horizontally in the air of course, but to get it vertical.
Rigging the Catalina 22 Boom as a Gin Pole for Mast Stepping
Demonstration of how I rig the boom of a Catalina 22 sailboat to work as a gin pole to assist with mast raising and lowering.For details about this method, g...
Mast Raiser, Gin Pole
Now to have the controlled leverage to easily raise or lower the mast, use the mainsheet block-and-tackle rig, or the boom vang rig, attached at the deck eye, and to the gin pole strap eye end opposite the jib halyard shackle. This puts the forces to both sides of the gin pole end equally, and the compression along the gin pole between the mast ...
Mast raising gin pole
1) You attache the JIB HALYARD to one of the loops on the end of your gin pole. 2) Attache the top of the MAIN SHEET to the other loop on the end of the gin pole. 3) Attache the bottom of the MAIN SHEET fiddle block to the U-bolt in the anchor locker and pass the bitter end through the cleat in the anchor locker.
stepping the mast using a gin pole???
Clip the "S's" to the eye straps on the deck and cleat the other end off on the mast. That takes maybe 45 seconds. Attach the gin pole to the bottom of the mast and to the jib halyard on one side of the top and the block and tackle on the other side of the top. Maybe another minute.