storm proof sailboat

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What sailboats could survive a full blown hurricane at sea?

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What sailboats are the most seaworthy? Boats that can withstand 30+ foot ocean waves?  

Does "full blown" mean Category1? Or Category5? Read "Fastnet, Force 10" to get some idea how boats do at sea.  

The Westsail 32 in the book/movie The Perfect Storm survived. But, survival also depends on how well the boat was maintained. That same Westsail in poor condition may have had a different ending.  

A 30 foot wave at sea and and a thirty foot wave on your local beach are not the same thing. A thirty foot wave at sea only occasionally breaks and when it does, only a portion of it becomes white water. Don't get me wrong, the energy in that portion is still formidable and can do damage but it isn't like the breaking wave that hits land. Mostly you sail over thirty foot waves at sea without incident. Another thing to consider is surfing. In my opinion allowing you boat to surf swells of 30 feet is playing Russian Roulette - eventually one will kill you. I won't elaborate here. We sailed through a storm with 80kn and 30+ feet. We got knocked down twice by breaking waves as described above but we safely "sailed" over hundreds more. We sustained more damage from the wind than from the sea. We have a 44ft GRP sloop. Was that a "full blown hurricane"? No because it only lasted two days. But in terms of wind speed and wave size, yes it probably equaled a Cat 1. Would you survive a Cat 5? I don't think so.  

I presume you are looking for a neat list. Do you want that in alphabetical order or by LOA? Color?  

Big ships often fair worse than a small sailboat in extreme conditions. Whereas a large ship may span a few waves and beak her back, a strong, small sailboat would be much like a cork, if watertight. I have survived 2 hurricanes at sea in sailboats. The first was just west of Fiji, probably a high cat 1, but it was before satellites so it may not be a "full blown" storm in your mind. We were capsized 3 times and sustained a lot of damage, but she got us back to a safe anchorage, so I guess she was a pretty good boat, considering she was 65 when she went through it. The second storm was in the western Indian ocean and because we were beating, we escaped the full force of the storm, but it was still 45 to 60 knots for 10 very difficult days as the darn thing chased us across the ocean. That boat was Brown 37' trimaran, which handled quite a few "heavy weather" experiences very well, including 1200 miles up the Red Sea in northerlies. Once again, it would very much depend on the choices made by and the experience of the captain (certainly NOT the case in the hurricane (cyclone if you prefer) off Fiji, as I made some very bad choices, but as they say, "hindsight is 20/20"); good choices increase the survivability in any situation, especially at sea, in heavy weather.  

In general, and your sea miles may vary: NO sailboat is guaranteed to survive a hurricane. There are no guarantees at sea, except that the sea has a good chance of finding its way through weaknesses in either boat or crew. Any small boat skipper who intentionally challenges a hurricane would seem likely to be either a fool, harboring a death wish, under terrible pressure, seriously unlucky, or extraordinarily delusionally over-confident. Theoretically, a boat could be designed for having a maximum probability of surviving hurricanes, but it might have to be so over-built that it would be a pig in normal conditions. (glossing over some discussion of Westsails and such like) There are boats built to sail in heavy conditions, and one could do a lot with flotation, water tight compartments, over-built rigs, high-strength impact-resistant hulls, more-or-less bulletproof steering systems, control lines led to sheltered locations, etc. If one were wealthy. But, a thirty-foot breaking wave can simply overpower most smaller craft, depending on how it catches a boat and how well the crew is able to anticipate and respond. With good voyage planning and weather routing and an efficient boat, a smart and not-too-unlucky crew can avoid most of the really heavy weather. What's sometimes harder to avoid and to manage is the really light stuff.  

What sailboat could survive a full-blown hurricane at sea? A fortunate one.  

Read God Forsaken Sea by Derek Lundy. Be prepared for some terrible gut wrenching descriptions.  

Me too. I cant remember ever hearing about a battleship or an aircraft carrier going down due to rough weather. And, the food is good.  

maybe not breaking it's back.. but my father rememebers seeing the intrepid with her flightdeck even with the water... and he was on an LST. The carrier sailors joked that people on his ship should have gotten Submarine pay as they spent most of the time under the waves. From what he tells of the story, they were taking 50 degree rolls.. LSTs are only supposed to take 40 before the capsize. I know of the Westsail that survived the perfect storm.. and a few Alberg 37s that survived some serious weather. Two that went through the Fast Net Gale with minimal damage and one that wound up beached with only scratches from a hurricane  

The USN would disagree with the idea that warships are safe in a typhoon. In 1944 a number of ships were capsized and lost in Typhoon Cobra. Typhoon Cobra (1944) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia There are too many variables to say which boats would survive a hurricane. In a class 5 hurricane in the dangerous quadrant, essentially NO sailboat would be likely to survive. Currents, types of wave action, proficiency of the captain and crew, equipment on board, strategies for dealing with big seas, and whether you've pissed off Neptune...all variables making huge differences in ability to handle bad weather. It's not just the boat. An Alberg 35 survived the Fastnet storm by just taking sails down and going below with bare poles.  

smurphny said: The USN would disagree with the idea that warships are safe in a typhoon. In 1944 a number of ships were capsized and lost in Typhoon Cobra. Typhoon Cobra (1944) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ... Click to expand...

Read "Rescue in the Pacific". Great book, not a hurricane, but a nasty storm none-the-less. All but one of the 'boats' survived it. It was the people that didn't.  

OK, fine. Then I won't go to sea in a warship. That settles it.  

I think it was one of Michner's books, maybe Tales of the South Pacific , that has a great fictional/historical account of this storm and what it must have been like to come upon the tragic sight of the wrong side of a destroyer from the deck of a sister ship.  

Might have been. Will have to search around and find where that section came from. It was a really haunting description, in the middle of a raging storm, of one warship looking out ahead and coming upon one that had capsized. Really presented a vivid and disturbing scene that has stuck with me.  

Make all the boat lists you want , but the thing that most makes a boat seaworthy is the person sailing her. There's no magic pill to get you through 30 foot seas. The best regarded blue water vessel ill managed at sea isn't worth spit . Conversely , a lessor boat skillfully handled might make a miracle .  

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Livable Yacht

Luxury living, seamless spaces.

Live in comfort and luxury in total autonomy, and enjoy life between the sea, the sky, and the city. Dock in a metropolitan marina or anchor in a tranquil bay. There’s just something about living on the water, coming home to the light shimmering on the surface after a long day in the city. It’s an experience you’ll never forget.

Total living space : 4,350 sqft Indoor living space : 2,700 sqft Bedrooms : 4 Bathrooms : 4.5

The 456 sqft retractable terrace adds plenty of outdoor space and is surrounded by shock resistant glass railings.

The sun deck located at the stern can be immersed, turning into a sea pool.

Avant-Garde Engineering

Technical features.

ARKUP livable yachts combine the best attributes of yachts, floating houses, and waterfront villas, with the added benefits of being self-sufficient, sustainable, and environmentally friendly. The ARKUP livable yacht was conceived to be “future-proof”, from its ability to withstand or avoid extreme weather events to its self-contained systems that allow fully off-the-grid living.

Length : 75 ft Beam : 32 ft Air draft: 34 ft Draft : 5 ft

Off-the-grid Living

The 2,300 sqft roof collects the rainwater and is covered with 36 kW solar electric panels which generate sufficient green energy to live off-the-grid. Live ecologically while being self-sufficient with water and electricity. Enjoy living off the grid and feel the satisfaction of minimizing your carbon footprint.

Solar power : 36kW Battery capacity : 182kWh Water purification Water tanks : 2x 4,000 GAL

The 2,300 sqft roof is covered with 36 kW solar electric panels which generate sufficient green energy to live off-the-grid.

Rainwater is collected from the roof, then stored in the hull and purified to ensure fresh water full-autonomy.

Silent Cruising

Electric propulsion.

You are free to move your home as you want. Two noise-free electric thrusters of 136 hp each rotate 180° for the best maneuverability to propel the yacht up to 5 knots.  Thanks to the solar power and water harvesting, you can cruise silently in waterways, bays, or lakes to find the perfect spot you want to stay in for your weekend or vacation. 

Propulsion : Electric Thrusters : 2x 100 kW Cruising speed : 3 kts Max speed : 5 kts

Two noise-free electric thrusters of 136 hp each rotate 180° for the best maneuverability to propel the yacht up to 5 knots.

The helm station allows to easily navigate and manage the jack-up operating system, ballasts, battery, and tanks capacities.

Comfort & Safety

Self-lifting system.

The four 40ft long hydraulic legs allow to anchor in up to 20ft water depths and lift the livable yacht above the sea-level, avoiding any seasickness. No matter the weather conditions and high winds, surge and floods are no longer an issue thanks to this self-lifting system making you feel 100% safe and protected

Hull material : steel Hull config. : 25 compartments Spuds : 4x 40 ft  Lifting capacity : 360 Tons

The four 40ft long hydraulic legs allow to anchor in up to 20ft water depths and lift the livable yacht above the sea level.

The hull accommodates separate technical rooms for hydraulic, electrical, and water-related equipment, and storage room.

Main Specifications

• Overall length (excl. boat lift) 75 ft (23m)
• Overall beam (excl. sliding deck) 32 ft (10m)
• 5 ft draft (1.4m)
• 34 ft air draft (11 m)
• 268 Tons displacement (full load)
• 4x 40 ft-long steel spuds (customizable on demand)
• Semi-automated self-elevating operating system
• 2,400 sq ft solar panels (223 m²)
• 4,350 sq ft total space (404 m²)
• 2,700 sq ft total indoor space (251 m²)
• 1,650 sq ft total outdoor space (153 m²)
• 2 decks | 5 terraces
• 4 en-suite bedrooms (8 people)
• Waterstudio.NL | Dutch architectural design
• US Coast Guards safety and construction standards
• ABYC recreational vessel standards design
• 270 deg. panoramic views
• Bureau Veritas certified hull
• High-grade insulation
• AC healthy and soothing indoor climate
• Energy Recovery Ventilation
• 6 independent reverse AC zones
• Floor to ceiling impact resistant bay windows
• Smart house automation
• Off-grid with green energy generation
• LED lighting system indoor & outdoor
• Hurricane cat. 4 winds resistant design (155 mph)
• Deck and terraces with Esthec finishing
• 2x 100kW azimuth electric thrusters (272 hp)
• Cruising Speed 2-3 knots
• Max speed 5 knots
• Daily Range 4 to 10h / 8 up to 20 nautical miles (37 km)
• Navigation and anchor lights
• NAVIO control and display system
• Depth finder
• VHF marine radio and horn
• 8mm steel modular pontoons
• 4 ballasts (4,5 m³ each)
• 3 technical rooms 355 sq ft (33 m³)
• 7 storage rooms 590 sq ft (55 m³)
• 4,000 GAL freshwater tank (15 m³)
• 4,000 GAL black/gray water tank (15 m³)
• Rainwater purification system
• Desalination unit (optional)
• Water heater
• Marine Sewage Device (optional)
• Lithium-Ion battery up to 1,000 kWh
• DNV-GL approved Orca Energy Storage System
• Electric and hydraulic power units
• Central vacuum cleaning unit
• Underwater lighting (optional)
• 50 sq ft retractable access platform (4,6 m²)
• Double front door with a spacious foyer
• 775 sq ft living room (72 m²)
• Open concept Miele fully equipped kitchen
• Office or crew cabin with 2 berths
• Sliding wall integrating living area & office
• 9.5 ft ceiling height (2,9 m)
• 1 powder room
• Laundry with washing machine and dryer
• Trashroom with trash compactor
• 720 sq ft fixed terrace with outdoor kitchen (67 m²)
• Helm station (cover included)
• 455 sq ft sliding deck (42 m²)
• 125 sq ft sun deck with lifting platform (12 m²)
• All-around glass railing
• Boat lift (30 feet | 5 Tons max)
• Storage space
• Hidden hull accesses
• Compressed air supply in storage/trash room
• Freshwater fill cap
• Shore power plugin
• Waste pump-out deck outlet
• Boat cleats
• Direct access with stairs from the foyer
• 8.5 ft ceiling height (2,6 m)
• 1 en-suite master bedroom with walk-in closet,
• balcony, and free-standing bath
• 1 en-suite VIP guest bedroom with balcony
• 1 en-suite guest bedroom
• Master and VIP rooms equipped with king-size beds
• Automatic electric shades hidden in recessed pockets
• 2,400 sq ft solar panels | 36 kW
• Communications system
• Rainwater harvesting system
• Lightning protection system
• Fire extinguishers
• Smoke detectors
• Water leak detectors
• Video-surveillance system
• Real-time systems monitoring
• Bilge pumps
• Fenders (x4)
• 60 kW backup generator (optional)
• Backup/emergency inverter
• Emergency anchor
• Safety pool net Stern

WHAT IS THE TYPICAL USE FOR ARKUP LIVABLE YACHTS? Owners can use the livable yacht as a recreational vessel that can provide the feel and comfort of home. For investors, the vessels represent an unparalleled opportunity as seasonal or event rentals (in compliance with local regulations depending on the jurisdiction).

LIVING ON THE WATER: WHAT ARE THE WORLD TRENDS OF THIS NEW LIFESTYLE? Although Arkup’s livable yachts are vessels, they can be used as floating houses, which have become popular as housing in some parts of the world (for example, in the Netherlands, the American West Coast, and in Southeast Asia). Arkup livable yachts are “future-proof” dwellings, whose mobility and flexibility make them resilient to floods, storm surge, and sea-level rise. Used as overwater villas, they also offer a key solution to urban growth and space scarcity.

WHAT IS THE RESALE VALUE OF A LIVABLE YACHT OVER TIME? A simple, practical concept — modular, adaptable, and built to last — the Arkup livable yacht will hold its value over time.  Compared with those of a traditional yacht, the vessel’s operational expenses are limited, and its features are designed to withstand extreme weather events and changes in water level, making it the ideal home of the future.

WHAT IS THE PRICE RANGE OF AN ARKUP LIVABLE YACHT? The price of the 75-foot Arkup livable yacht starts at $3.5 M, up to $5.5 M. The vessel can be customized to the needs and taste of each client.

IS THE INTERIOR DESIGN CUSTOMIZABLE? The Arkup livable yacht can be delivered in a stripped-down version — decorator ready — or fully furnished and ready to move in. Bespoke projects can be developed to suit each client’s needs and tastes.

HOW MUCH TIME BETWEEN ORDER AND DELIVERY OF THE LIVABLE YACHT? Standard delivery time is 14 to 18 months after order confirmation and plans approval, depending on desired technology and customization.

WHERE CAN THE VESSELS BE DELIVERED? Manufactured in Miami, Arkup livable yachts are delivered via waterways to coastal areas, accessible interior lakes, and large rivers around the world (cost of delivery provided on request).

WHAT IS THE USUAL MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST? Maintenance is limited: changing filters, lubricating the hydraulic pilings, cleaning the hull, pumping out the wastewater tank, inspecting and testing safety-features inspections, washing the solar roof.

CAN ARKUP LIVABLE YACHTS BE USED AS SEASONAL RENTALS?

Arkup livable yachts can be chartered to carry as many as 12 passengers with or without a crew, operating as an Uninspected Passenger Vessel over 100 gross tons or as a Recreational Vessel — a bareboat charter — according to the U.S. Coast Guards’ safety standards and regulations.

IS THERE ANY TAX INCENTIVE FOR BUYING AN ARKUP LIVABLE YACHT? The maximum taxes levied on the sale of a vessel in the State of Florida are $18,000, including both sales and use tax and discretionary sales surtax. Although there is no direct tax incentive for purchasing a 100-percent solar-electric vessel, you will have no utility bills because the Arkup Livable Yacht generates its own power and water, and it can operate off-the-grid. The property tax does not apply to recreational vessels. The annual registration fee for an Arkup Livable Yacht is approximately $150.

WHERE CAN I LIVE WITH SUCH A VESSEL? The same kind of areas where large yachts dock: marina slips, private docks, waterfront properties, privately-owned submerged lands, or regulated anchorage.

IS IT A HOUSE OR A VESSEL IN VIEW OF LAWS AND REGULATIONS? It is a recreational vessel that must be registered and titled.

WHAT ARE THE ENVIRONMENTAL REGULATIONS FOR OPERATING AN ARKUP LIVABLE YACHT? Laws prohibit anchoring in protected areas in an effort to preserve the waters and sea bottoms. Black- and gray-water discharge must be conducted in compliance with the regulations of individual local jurisdictions.

HOW IS SAFETY ADDRESSED IN OPERATIONS? Safe operating procedures (navigation, boat lift, sliding terrace, and hydraulic pilings) are detailed in the operational manual and will be addressed during owner training. 

WHAT ARE ONBOARD SAFETY DEVICES? Glass railings and handrails, life vests, smoke detectors, sprinklers and fire extinguishers, alarms (smoke, bilge water, intrusion) and automated bilge pumps, lightning protection, CCTV cameras, and VHF are included. All alarms are connected and monitored in real-time.

WHAT TYPE OF WARRANTY DOES ARKUP OFFER? ARKUP offers 3 years on hull and superstructure, 2 years on power, jack-up, and propulsion systems, and 1 year on all items manufactured by Arkup. Accessories and components made by third parties installed by Arkup are covered by direct warranties of their own with a 12-month minimum coverage (i.e. electronic instruments, controls, accessories, air conditioning systems, appliances, windows, etc.)

WHAT ARE THE OPERATIONAL LIMITS OF THE VESSEL? The vessel is designed and engineered according to U.S. Coast Guard standards for recreational vessels in partially protected waters. The maximum anchoring depth is 25 feet (7.5 meters). The vessel is also compliant with the MCA LY3 Short Range Yacht stability criterion (waves < 1.83m/6 ft ; wind < 16kts).

WHAT DOES “HURRICANE-PROOF” MEAN? The Arkup livable yacht structure and anchoring system are designed to resist high winds of as much as 156 miles per hour, or 250 kilometers per hour — equivalent to a Category 4 hurricane. The vessel can be completely lifted out of the water to safeguard from storm surge. Hurricanes are predictable storm events, allowing enough time for owners to sail to a safe harbor or a protected area. The livable yachts are not made to stay in deep waters and exposed areas.

ARE ARKUP LIVABLE YACHTS CUSTOMIZABLE? The vessels are fully customizable on-demand and can incorporate anything the customer would like to include.

IS THERE A THERMIC ENGINE BACKUP FOR THE 100-PERCENT ELECTRIC MODEL? A diesel generator can be added upon request to increase range, but existing electric engines provide enough power to propel the vessel and navigate safely.

CAN YOU BOOST THE POWER OF THE ELECTRIC THRUSTERS? Yes. The two 136-horsepower thrusters can be upgraded. We can also boost electric-energy production and storage depending on the client’s needs.

WHAT HOME-AUTOMATION TECHNOLOGIES ARE INCORPORATED INTO THE ARKUP LIVABLE YACHTS? An Arkup livable yacht features state-of-the-art smart technologies and offers maximum living comfort by enabling the control of temperature, lights, electric shades, sound system, video surveillance, etc., remotely and monitored in real-time, providing the user with information on battery life and water-tank capacity, as well as overall energy generation-consumption ratios.

HOW DOES ARKUP LIVABLE YACHT FLOAT AND NAVIGATE? Flotation is ensured by Archimedes. Our livable yacht is equipped with two 136-horsepower (100-kilowatt) electric thrusters that rotate 180 degrees, allowing smooth navigation and maneuverability.

WHAT ABOUT COMMUNICATIONS AND ACCESS TO NETWORKS? Arkup livable yachts are equipped with long-range, high-speed internet and VHF. Satellite television and navigation systems are optional.

WHAT ARE THE MAIN ADVANTAGES OF THE ELECTRIC THRUSTERS? Cruising is silent and does not pollute the water; electric propulsion does not generate noise, smoke, or fumes and reduces vibrations disturbing marine life.

WHAT ARE THE MAIN SPECIFICATIONS OF THE VESSEL? 300 tons weight, 75×32 feet, 5-foot draft, 34-foot air draft, average speed 3knots with a max of 5-knot. The 8-millimeter steel hull is composed of 28 watertight compartments.

WHAT ARE THE SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS AND TECHNOLOGIES INCLUDED ONBOARD? Arkup livable yachts offer Low-e consumption design and materials as well as equipment for solar-energy generation and battery storage. Also included, are the systems for rainwater harvesting, water purification and storage, wastewater management, energy recovery, and ventilation.

WHAT IS THE MAXIMUM POWER GENERATION AND STORAGE CAPACITY? 36 kW of power generation from the solar roof and as much as one megawatt-hour of power storage ensure more than enough energy to operate the boat engines and livable features. The vessel can cruise 4 to 10h / 8 up to 20 NM, depending on the sun and time in the day.

ARE THE BUILDING MATERIALS ECO-SOURCED? Conception and design are eco-friendly. Sustainable and green materials are incorporated into the design as much as possible.

IS THE VESSEL 100-PERCENT SELF-SUSTAINING? Yes, it is. The vessel is zero-emission, carbon-neutral, energy-positive and collects rainwater, and treats it for onboard use.

WHY OFFER SUSTAINABLE OFF-GRID LIVABLE YACHTS? We strive to offer an alternative lifestyle to preserve the environment by avoiding fossil fuels. Our vessels and housing solutions are resistant to storm surges and hurricanes.

WHAT ARE THE HYDRAULIC PILINGS USED FOR? The automated hydraulic system ensures that the vessel is anchored and leveled in waters as deep as 20 feet (6 meters) and also enable lifting the vessel entirely out of the water for comfort and safety.

WHAT ABOUT MOTION SICKNESS ONBOARD? The stability provided by the hydraulic anchoring system is designed to avoid the movement that can cause motion sickness: This makes the Arkup overwater villas as comfortable as a house on the land.

CAN I GO FROM MIAMI TO KEY WEST, TAMPA, OR EVEN NEW YORK? Yes you can, depending on weather, which determines the daily range capacity (up to 8 hours / 20 NM).

ARE THERE ANY SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS TO OPERATE THE FULLY-ELECTRIC POWERED VESSEL? It requires the same boating experience as any other similar-sized recreational vessel. Thorough training and an extensive manual are provided to all customers. The owner can also hire our certified captains.

HOW MANY GUESTS AND CREW CAN STAY ON THE BOAT WHEN CRUISING OR AT ANCHOR? The Arkup livable yacht can accommodate six to eight people comfortably overnight. The livable yacht can operate as a recreational vessel with a limit of55 passengers (life vests required) or as charter vessels carrying as many as 12 passengers, according to the U.S. Coast Guard’s safety standards and regulations.

CAN I USE AN ARKUP LIVABLE YACHT AS A MOBILE BEACH HOUSE IN THE BAHAMAS OR SOMEWHERE ELSE? Yes, owners of foreign-registered boats (including the U.S.) may keep their vessels in the Bahamas (for instance) for one year without paying duty and may extend the one-year stay for two years by paying a fee of $500. The initial entry fee is $300 to clear Bahamas Customs and Immigration and to obtain a cruising permit. After two years, the vessel would have to depart the Bahamas for one month before applying for a new cruising permit.

HOW TO RECEIVE MAILS, PARCELS OR DELIVERIES? Marinas can provide concierge services or a mailbox or rent a slot at a local Post Office.

DOES THE VESSEL NEED A CAPTAIN TO OPERATE? With adequate boating experience, operating an Arkup Livable Yacht is relatively easy with the training provided by Arkup. A license and safety certification may be required locally.

WHAT KIND OF LICENSE AND INSURANCE ARE NEEDED? Arkup livable yachts are registered and insured as pleasure boats. To operate them, most U.S. states require a driver’s license and boating safety certification for recreational use. For other countries, Arkup can assist you.

CAN WATER SLIDES AND OTHER TOYS BE ADDED? Arkup livable yachts provide plenty of storage space for toys and recreational items. Make the ocean your playground!

HOW IS DISPOSAL OF SEWAGE AND WASTEWATER MANAGED ONBOARD ARKUP LIVABLE YACHTS? Vessel operators are required to retain their sewage discharges on-board for disposal at sea (beyond three miles from shore) or onshore at a pump-out facility. Black and gray waters are stored in a 3,700-gallon (14-cubic-meter) holding tank before being pumped out at either a marina or by a vessel designed to pump out waste. There are other options, such as using an approved U.S. Coast Guard Marine Sanitation Device (MSD) and then discharging within 3 miles offshore according to Clean Water Act regulations.

HOW LONG CAN THE LIVABLE YACHT REMAIN OFF-THE-GRID (WITHOUT POWER AND WATER)? Arkup livable yachts can remain off-the-grid all year long depending on the weather (sun exposure/rainfall) in tropical regions. Without any sun to charge the batteries, a full charge can provide electricity for all household needs for two to three days (without navigation).

The 4,000-gallon fresh-water tank ensures two weeks of self-sufficiency for six people without harvesting any rainwater. If needed, the vessel can connect to shore power to refill the freshwater tank (or add an optional water-maker).

IF I CHOOSE TO LIVE OFF-THE-GRID ON AN ARKUP LIVABLE YACHT, HOW DO I GET TO SHORE? There are many easy options. You can use a tender boat to get to shore via authorized public or private docks, or by renting a slip in a marina where you can dock while you’re on land. There are also many types of amphibious vehicles now available, making it possible to access land through a public boat ramp. Local companies offer water taxi services. Arkup also partners with ILandMiami (www.ilandmiami.com) to provide access by seaplane or helicopter.

WHAT IS THE APPROXIMATE OPERATING COST OF AN ARKUP LIVABLE YACHT?

The cost is much less than a yacht of equivalent size (the annual operating costs of a yacht are typically 10 percent of its value). Compared with a traditional house, the maintenance is roughly equivalent — there is no garden or swimming pool to maintain, but the livable yacht must be cleaned regularly. If the livable yacht is docked in a marina, the slip rental costs will generally be considerably lower than the property taxes on similar waterfront property. The hull can be easily inspected, washed, and maintained when the livable yacht is lifted above the waterline.

HOW ARE TRASH AND GARBAGE HANDLED ONBOARD?

Arkup livable yachts have a dedicated trash room equipped with a trash compactor and recycling bins. The compacted trash is disposed of ashore at public garbage facilities or marinas (a composter for organic waste is optional).

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HOW TO SAIL SAFELY THROUGH A STORM

Tips and tricks to help you get home safe.

Compared to the quick response and sudden nature of a squall , sailing through a storm in open water is an endurance contest. In addition to big wind, you’ll have to deal with big waves and crew fatigue.

Sailing in Waves

Sailing in big waves is a test of seamanship and steering, which is why you should put your best driver on the helm. Experienced dinghy sailors often are very good at heavy air steering, because they see “survival” weather more often than most cruisers.

Avoid sailing on a reach across tall breaking waves; they can roll a boat over. When sailing close-hauled in waves, aim toward flat spots while keeping speed up so you can steer. To reduce the chance of a wave washing across the deck, tack in relatively smooth water. A cubic foot of water weighs 64 pounds, so a wave can bring many hundreds of pounds of water across the deck.

Sailing on a run or broad reach in big waves is exhilarating, but be careful not to broach and bring the boat beam-to a breaker. Rig a preventer to hold the boom out.

Storm Sails

If reefing isn’t enough to reduce power, it’s time to dig out your storm sails — the storm trysail and storm jib. They may seem tiny, but since wind force rises exponentially, they’re the right size for a really big blow. Storm trysails are usually trimmed to the rail, but some modern ones are set on the boom. The storm jib should be set just forward of the mast to keep the sail plan’s center of effort near the boat’s center of lateral resistance. This helps keep the boat in balance.

Storm Strategy

The first decision before an approaching storm is the toughest: Run for cover, or head out to open water for sea room? With modern forecasting, a true storm will rarely arrive unannounced, but as you venture further offshore the chances of being caught out increase. While running for cover would seem the preferred choice, the danger lies in being caught in the storm, close to shore, with no room to maneuver or run off.

Two classic storm strategies are to try to keep away from land so you’re not blown up on shore, and to sail away from the storm’s path — especially its “dangerous semicircle,” which is its right side as it advances.

Storm Tactics

Storm tactics help you handle a storm once you’re in it. There are several proven choices, all of which aim to reduce the strain and motion by pointing one of the boat’s ends (either bow or stern) toward the waves. No one tactic will work best for all boats in all conditions.

Sail under storm jib and deeply reefed mainsail or storm trysail. This approach provides the most control. Sails give you the power to steer and control your boat in the waves.

Run before the storm with the stern toward the waves, perhaps towing a drogue to slow the boat. This tactic requires a lot of sea room, and the boat must be steered actively. Another concern is that you will remain in front of an approaching storm, rather than sailing out of its path.

Heave-to on a close reach with the jib trimmed to windward. Heaving-to can be an excellent heavy weather tactic, though some boats fare better than others.

Deploy a sea anchor while hove-to or under bare poles. A sea anchor is a small parachute set at the end of a line off the bow. A sea anchor helps keep the bow up into the waves so the boat won’t end up beam to the seas. One concern is the load on the rudder as waves push the boat aft.

Another alternative is lying ahull, simply sitting with sails down. This passive alternative is less reliable than the other tactics, as you lose the ability to control your angle to the waves and may end up beam to the seas. Furthermore, the motion of the boat rolling in the waves without the benefit of sails can be debilitating.

Want to order a storm trysail or storm jib for your boat? Contact a North Sails Expert here .

How to Heave-To

Wouldn’t it be great if, during a heavy air sail, you could just take a break, and relax for a bit? Imagine a short respite from the relentless pitching and pounding: a chance to rest, take a meal, or check over the boat in relative tranquility. Well, you can. The lost art of heaving-to allows you to “park” in open water.

To heave-to, trim the jib aback (i.e., to the wrong side), trim the main in hard, and lash the helm so the boat will head up once it gains steerageway. As the jib tries to push the bow down, the bow turns off the wind and the main fills, moving the boat forward. Once the boat begins to make headway, the lashed helm turns the boat toward the wind again. As the main goes soft the jib once again takes over, pushing the bow down. The main refills, and the rudder pushes the bow into the wind again.

The boat won’t actually stop. It will lie about 60 degrees off the wind, sailing at 1 or 2 knots, and making significant leeway (sliding to leeward). The motion will be much less than under sail, and dramatically more stable and pleasant than dropping all sails and lying ahull. You will also be using up less sea room than if you run before the storm at great speed.

Achieving this balance will require some fine tuning, depending on the wind strength, your boat design, and the sails you are flying. Also, fin-keeled boats do not heave to as well as more traditional designs.

In storm seas, some boats will require a sea anchor off the bow to help hold the boat up into the waves while hove-to.

Alternate Storm Strategy: Don’t Go

If conditions are wrong, or are forecast to worsen, don’t go. If you can avoid the storm, then do so.

If you’re at home, stay there. If you’re mid-cruise, button up the boat, make sure your anchor or mooring or dock lines are secure, and then read a book or play cards. Relax. Enjoy the time with your shipmates. Study the pile of Owners’ Manuals you’ve accumulated with each piece of new gear. Tinker with boat projects.

Put some soup on the stove, and check on deck every so often to make sure the boat is secure. Shake your head as you return below, and remark, “My oh my, is it nasty out there.”

If your boat is threatened by a tropical storm or hurricane, strip all excess gear from the deck, double up all docking or mooring lines, protect those lines from chafe, and get off. Don’t risk your life to save your boat.

Misery and Danger

Although everyone will remember it differently years later, a long, wet, cold sail through a storm can be miserable. As the skipper, you need to make the best of it: watch over your crew, offer relief or help to those who need it, and speak a few words of encouragement to all. “This is miserable, but it will end.”

Take the time to marvel at the forces of nature, and at your ability to carry on in the midst of the storm. Few people get to experience the full fury of a storm. It may not be pleasant, but it is memorable.

While misery and discomfort can eventually lead to fatigue, diminished performance, and even danger, do not mistake one for the other. Distinguish in your own mind the difference between misery and danger. Don’t attempt a dangerous harbor entrance to escape misery; that would compromise the safety of the boat and crew, just to avoid a little discomfort.

Interested in a new sail quote or have questions about your sails? Fill out our Request a Quote form below and you will receive a reply from a North sail expert in your area.

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How Ships Survive a Hurricane at Sea

Storms at sea are harrowing experiences . Towering walls of water, driven by powerful winds, slam into the ship. A major storm can batter even the largest, sturdiest vessels. And they're an unavoidable part of life on the water.

Storms are part of life at sea, however. "If a ship is in the ocean, you're going to have heavy weather," says Fred Pickhardt, chief meteorologist at Ocean Weather Services. Captains can't dodge every storm, because, as Pickhardt explained, "ships are typically on a very tight schedule. Just the fuel alone on ships can be tens of thousands of dollars a day, so a two or three day delay or deviation can cost big bucks, so they always want to minimize it."

Most modern cargo ships are designed to tough out all but the heaviest weather and stay on schedule, but hurricanes are the largest and among the most dangerous storms on the ocean, and no crew wants to find itself in the midst of one.

Getting the Weather Report

To steer clear of hurricanes, mariners need good weather information. A century ago, weather updates at sea were limited to Morse code messages, but since the 1980s, weather updates have come to printers or fax machines right on the ship's bridge. U.S. cargo ships are required to carry a Navigational Telex (NAVTEX) machine, a radio receiver that picks up medium-frequency radio signals and converts them into a text printout. Another system called Weatherfax uses higher frequency radio waves to send black-and-white images to shipboard fax machines.

Today, captains can also receive weather maps, satellite images, and other information by email. Some vessels have more high-tech tools aboard, like onboard computer systems that help plan routes based on weather forecasts. "Anything you can get on a computer at home, you can probably get at sea through a satellite connection," Pickhardt says.

The most dangerous ship in a hurricane is an empty one. That's because the weight of cargo helps stabilize the ship against the waves. Ballast provides a little stabilizing weight when ships sail empty, but not always enough.

"It can get kind of hairy, especially if you don't have cargo," former sea captain Max Hardberger tells Popular Mechanics. "When you have only ballast water way down in the bottom of the ship, the ship has a very wicked roll to it. I've been on ships, for example, where we would go from thirty degrees heeled over on one side, and we would whip across to thirty degrees heel on the other side in a matter of three and a half seconds, so you can imagine something like that will roll your eyeteeth out."

The rolling is hard for the crew, but the worst thing for a ship is the repeated impact of the hull slamming into the troughs between waves. Modern cargo ships are constructed of thick steel, but if the waves are large enough and their battering lasts long enough, the pounding of those impacts can still break a ship apart.

Any Port in a Storm?

Cargo ships don't always head for the nearest port when a hurricane approaches, because not all ports offer the same kind of shelter.

"If you have a choice," Hardberger says, "you obviously want to find what's known as a hurricane hole, which is going to be a port with very good holding and with high cliffs or mountains around the harbor to protect you from the winds."

Once in port, crews anchor the ship, leaving plenty of slack in the anchor chain to prevent the motion of the waves from snapping the chain. They might also put the ship's engine in reverse to put pressure on the anchor. "Once you've done those things and you're at anchor, there's not much else you can do except just hope and pray," Hardberger says.

Being caught in the wrong port can be dangerous. "After Katrina, there was a ship I went on in Lake Charles that had hammered its side against the docks during the hurricane and sustained some pretty heavy damage to its side," he says. That kind of battering takes a toll on the dock, too, and port authorities may order ships to leave ahead of a storm. "There are some ports that are so dangerous that ships will actually go out to sea, thinking that they'll be safer riding out the hurricane at sea than they are in port," Hardberger says.

Of course, the best plan is to get out of a hurricane's way. "At a modern ship speed of 14 knots, you should be able to outrun a hurricane," he says. But, Pickhardt says, "the later you leave, the less options you have. When you cut it too close, sometimes you get in trouble."

If All Else Fails

What if a ship must face a hurricane at sea? "You would try to steer for the area of the ocean that is going to see the shallowest waves and the lowest winds," Hardberger says. The "low side" or "clean side" of the storm is usually the side counterclockwise from its leading edge.

In the teeth of the storm, a ship's survival depends on two things: sea room and steering-way. Sea room means that the ship is a safe distance from anything it might crash into, like a coastline. Cargo ships try to stay well offshore if they must face a major storm at sea. If a ship is on a "lee shore," with land close by downwind, the storm can drive the ship onto the land and wreck it.

Steering-way means that the ship is moving forward with enough power to steer rather than just getting pushed around by waves and wind. The ship must keep its bow (the front end) pointing into the waves to plow through them safely, since a massive wave striking the ship's side could roll the vessel over and sink it. Wind and waves will try to turn the vessel, and pushing against them requires forward momentum.

Winning a fight against the sea depends on having a well-maintained ship, a trained and experienced crew, and a healthy dose of good luck.

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Storm Trysails

A storm trysail rarely gets the close look it deserves. Designed to replace the mainsail in a severe storm, it spends most of its life in the sail locker.

The sail is required by offshore race rules and is a must for ocean-voyaging boats, but most modern production boats aren’t even set up for a trysail.

The trysail hoists on the mast, but must be capable of flying independent of the boom. To make setting the sail as easy as possible, the boat’s mast typically has a separate parallel track for the trysail. Feeder tracks that route the trysail into the mainsail track can work in some cases, but are generally less desirable. Stand-off tracks for in-boom furling, as well as some stack packs, and static lazy-jack systems can complicate a retrofit.

Trysail sheet blocks should be mounted port and starboard, allowing the sheets to lead fairly to a winch. Snatch blocks are not the first choice for this job.

It is best to work closely with a sailmaker and/or the boat’s designer to get the right size and shape trysail. It should be cut flat, and the center of effort located to optimize stability and helm balance.

For more advice and recommendations on sails – what to buy, carry and use – purchase Practical Sailor ’s ebook Specialty Sails & Hardware .

Also, check out the complete 3 volume series, A Look at Sails at a price that’s like getting one ebook free when you buy the other two.

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Where To Keep Your Boat During A Hurricane

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The best predictor of whether your boat will survive a hurricane is where it's kept. The most important consideration should be location.

Boats that are hauled out are far less likely to be damaged during a storm than those left in the water. Using straps is effective at keeping boats from toppling over or floating away.

Going back as far as Hurricane Alicia in 1983, our BoatUS Hurricane Catastrophe Team (CAT) professionals have spent thousands of hours working to identify and recover damaged boats. They've seen firsthand what works and what doesn't when a boat is prepared for a hurricane.

When asked where CAT team members would take their own boats if a hurricane warning were posted, most agreed: They'd have it hauled ashore. For many boat owners and marinas, hauling boats is the foundation of their hurricane plan. Some farsighted marinas and yacht clubs have evacuation plans to pull as many boats out of the water as possible whenever a storm is approaching and secure the rest in the largest available slips.

How To Choose The Best Marina For A Hurricane Or Storm

Securing A Boat Ashore

Some types of boats must be pulled if they're to have any chance of surviving. For instance, smaller open boats and high-performance powerboats with low freeboard will almost always be overcome by waves, spray, and rain. This is true even if the boats have self-bailing cockpits. Fortunately, most of these boats can be placed on trailers and transported inland.

Boats ashore should be stored well above the anticipated storm surge, but even when boats are tipped off jackstands and cradles by rising water, the damage they sustain in a storm tends to be much less severe than the damage to boats left in the water. Windage is also a consideration. If nothing else, reduce windage as much as possible (see Find And Fix Potential Breaking Points ). Make sure your boat has extra jackstands, at least three or four on each side for boats under 30 feet, and five or six for larger boats. Jackstands must be supported by plywood and chained together to stop them from spreading. To reduce windage, some ambitious boat owners on the Gulf Coast have dug holes for their sailboat keels so the boats present less windage. Smaller sailboats are sometimes laid on their sides.

One technique that has proven very effective involves strapping boats down to eyes embedded in concrete. At least two marinas in Florida and one in Puerto Rico have used straps with excellent results. One of the Florida marinas strapped the boats to eyes embedded in its concrete storage lot. The other Florida marina and the one in Puerto Rico built heavy concrete runners (similar to long, narrow concrete deadweight moorings) beneath the boats to anchor the straps. (Straps made from polyester work better than nylon, which has more stretch). Even when the wind has been on the beam and water has come into the storage area, the straps held and boats stayed upright. An alternative tried at other marinas has been to use earth augers screwed into the ground to secure the straps. Results with the latter technique have been mixed; some have held while others have been pulled out. All things considered, any attempt to anchor a boat on shore is worth the effort.

Securing A Boat In The Water

Any boat in the water should be secured in a "hurricane hole," which means a snug harbor protected on all sides from open fetch and unrestricted storm surge. (Don't even think about riding out the storm at sea unless you're the skipper of an aircraft carrier!) The trick is deciding which harbors will still be safer if a hurricane comes ashore and which ones will be vulnerable. Storm surge — high water — is a major consideration. A storm surge of 10 feet or more is common in a hurricane, so a seawall or sandy spit that normally protects a harbor may not offer enough protection in a hurricane.

Another consideration is rocks. Crowded, rock-strewn harbors are picturesque but not a good place to keep your boat in a storm, particularly if your boat breaks loose. If you plan to anchor, choose your bottom well for holding your type of boat with your type of anchors. Also, water can sometimes be blown out of the harbor, leaving boats stranded briefly. If this happens, your boat would rather settle onto anything but rocks.

At A Fixed Dock

Members of our BoatUS CAT Team estimate that as many as 50 percent of the boats damaged at fixed docks during hurricanes could've been saved by using better docklines — lines that are longer, larger, arranged better, and protected against chafing. If you decide to leave your boat at a dock, you'll need to devise a docking plan that's liable to be far different than your normal docking arrangement. By the time preparations are completed, your boat should resemble a spider suspended in the center of a large web. This web will allow the boat to rise on the surge, be bounced around by the storm, and still remain in position.

Lines should be extra long to allow for surge. Double lines up where possible. (Illustration: Erich Stevens)

Take a look at your boat slip and its relation to the rest of the harbor. For most boats, you'll want to arrange the bow toward open water or, lacking that, toward the least protected direction. This reduces windage and keeps the strongest part of the boat — the bow — facing the storm. If your boat has a swim platform, especially one that is integral to the hull, you'll need to take extra care that the platform can't strike anything. Boats have been sunk when their platforms were bashed against a bulkhead.

Next, look for pilings, dock cleats, trees — anything sturdy — that could be used for securing docklines. Avoid cleats that do not have sufficient backing. Just bolting them through dock planks will probably not suffice. Not all pilings are sturdy, though. Old wood pilings that are badly deteriorated should obviously not be relied on in a storm. The same is true of older concrete pilings, which seem to be more susceptible to snapping in half (and sometimes landing on boats) than their more pliant wood counterparts. Many of the boats that were wrecked in Hurricane Charley had been secured to concrete pilings that couldn't stand up to the lateral stress and twisting. And at least one marina in Pensacola had almost all its concrete pilings fail. All things being equal, wood is a better choice unless the concrete pilings are relatively new.

If you don't have a slip, tie extra-long lines to pilings or cleats to allow for the surge, which could be 10 feet or more. Use anchors or long spring lines to keep the boat from striking the dock. (Illustration: Erick Stevens)

Lines should also be a larger diameter to resist chafe and excessive stretching. On most cases, you should use ½-inch line for boats up to 25 feet; 5/8-inch line for boats 25 feet to 34 feet, and 3/4- to 1-inch lines for larger boats. Chafe protectors (see Find And Fix Potential Breaking Points ) must be on any portion of the line that could be chafed by chocks, pulpits, pilings, and so on. To secure lines to hard-to-reach outer pilings, put the eye on the piling so that lines can be adjusted from the boat. For other lines, put the eye on the boat to allow for final adjustment from the dock.

How to Tie Up Your Boat For A Hurricane Or Storm

At A Floating Dock

Because they rise with the surge, floating docks allow boats to be secured more readily than boats at fixed docks. There's no need to run lines to distant pilings because the boats and docks rise in tandem. Floating docks only offer protection from the surge, however, if — a HUGE if — the pilings are tall enough to accommodate the surge. In almost every major hurricane, there have been instances where the surge has lifted floating docks up and over pilings. When that happens, the docks and boats, still tied together, are usually washed ashore in battered clumps.

If you plan to leave your boat at a floating dock, it's critical that you measure the height of the pilings. Will they remain above the predicted storm surge? Pilings that are only 6 or 7 feet above the normal high tide probably won't be safe. When floating docks have been rebuilt after hurricanes, the new pilings have almost always been much taller, up to 18 feet tall, and are far less likely to be overcome by surge than the 6- to 8-foot pilings that they replaced. Taller pilings are much more "stormproof."

Canals, Rivers, and Waterways

Whenever canals, rivers, or waterways are available, they serve as shelters — hurricane holes — and may offer an alternative to crowded harbors and marinas if you have no alternative. Your mooring arrangement will depend on the nature of the hurricane hole. In a narrow residential canal, a boat should be secured in the center with several sturdy lines ashore (the "spider web") to both sides of the canal. This technique was common to most of the boats in canals that survived recent hurricanes. Conversely, boats that were left at docks without the benefit of lines to both sides of the canal didn't fare any better than boats at marina docks.

The boat should be facing the canal's entrance and be as far back from open water as possible. Besides sheltering the boat, being away from the entrance should help with another consideration, which is the need to maintain a navigable waterway. Securing boats in residential canals is possible only if you make arrangements with the homeowners whose trees and pilings you'll be using to secure your boat. This can be difficult if your boat isn't normally moored in the canal. If your boat is already in the canal, getting other homeowners involved in planning for a hurricane increases the chances that your boat (and theirs) will survive. This is important because all it takes to wreak havoc in a narrow canal is one or two neglected boats coming loose.

In wider canals and waterways, boats should be secured using a combination of anchors and lines tied to trees ashore. More lines and anchors are always better. Try to find a spot that is well away from open water and that has tall banks, sturdy trees, and few homes. Moor your boat away from the main channel. Other considerations: A hurricane hole that ordinarily takes an hour to reach may take two hours or more to reach when winds and seas are building, bridges will likely not open as frequently once a hurricane warning has been posted, the bridges may be locked down for evacuation by vehicle, or the hurricane hole may be crowded when you get there. Plan on moving your boat early.

At A Mooring Or At Anchor

Mooring in a sheltered location can also be a good alternative to exposed harbors and/or crowded marinas. A boat on a mooring can swing to face the wind, which reduces windage, and can’t be slammed into a dock unless the mooring or anchor drags. The first question, then, is, will your mooring hold? As a result of numerous moorings being dragged during hurricanes and northeasters, a study by the BoatUS Foundation, Cruising World magazine, and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology found that a 500- pound mushroom buried in mud could be pulled out with 1,200 pounds of pull (supplied by a 900-hp tug); an 8,000- pound deadweight (concrete) anchor could be pulled out with 4,000 pounds of pull. A helix mooring, however, could not be pulled out by the tug, and the strain gauge recorded 12,000 pounds of pull — its maximum — before a shackle burst apart from the strain. Scope in each case was slightly less than 3:1.

Helix moorings were found to hold better than other types of moorings, withstanding more than 12,000 pounds of strain.

The holding power of a mushroom or deadweight mooring anchor can be increased by extending the pennant's scope, which has as much to do with the holding power of a mooring as it does the anchor itself. (Additional scope, while always advantageous, appears to be less critical with helix anchors.) Studies have found that when the angle of pull increases to 25 degrees, a mooring's holding power begins to weaken precipitously. So in shallow harbors, where a scope of 3:1 can be had with, say, 20 to 30 feet of chain, the advantage of scope is all but eliminated in a storm by a combination of a large tidal surge and the high, pumping motion of waves. Note that in a crowded harbor, scope must be increased uniformly on all boats.

Finally, when was the last time your mooring's chain was inspected? Chain that is marginal in the spring won't be sufficiently strong at summer's end to stand up to a hurricane. A harbormaster should know how long your chain has been in use and whether its condition could be iffy. If you have any doubts about your mooring, the chances of it failing can be reduced significantly by using one or two additional storm anchors to enhance its holding power and to decrease the room your boat will need to swing.

As with moorings, conventional storm anchors rely on scope — at least 10:1 if possible — to increase holding power. Heavy, oversize chain is also recommended; 50/50 is probably the optimum chain-to-line ratio. In theory, a riding weight, or sentinel, placed at the chain/ line juncture will lower the angle of pull on the anchor and reduce jerking and strain on the boat. During a hurricane, however, its value will be diminished by the extreme pressure of wind and waves, and a sentinel (and the weight of the chain) should never be relied on to compensate for lack of scope. To absorb shock, an all-chain rode must have a snubber (usually nylon line) that is 30 percent of the rode's length. Without the nylon line, the surging waves and intense gusts are much more likely to yank the anchor out of the bottom.

BoatUS CAT team members have consistently found that boats using single working anchors were much more likely to have been washed ashore. Conversely, more and larger anchors (suited for the type of bottom) increased a boat's chances of staying put. One CAT team member says he's impressed with the number of boats that ride out storms successfully using two large anchors with lines set 90 degrees apart. With this technique, one rode should be slightly longer than the other so they won't become tangled should they drag. Even more staying power can be had using the tandem anchoring technique — backing each anchor with a second anchor. Using tandem anchors allows the first anchor to dig a furrow so that the second can dig in even deeper. A study done by the U.S. Navy found that the use of tandem anchors yields a 30% improvement over the sum of their individual holding powers.

One more important note: Chafe gear is essential on any line, but it's especially important on mooring and anchor lines. Recent storms have given dramatic evidence that a boat anchored or moored is especially vulnerable to chafing through its pennants. Unlike a boat at a dock, which is usually more sheltered and secured with multiple lines, a boat on a mooring is more exposed to wind and waves and will typically be secured with only two lines. Lines on the latter will be under tremendous loads and will chafe through quickly if they aren't protected.

Trailerable Boats

A trailer is, or should be, a ticket to take your boat inland to a more sheltered location away from tidal surge. But your boat won't get far on a neglected trailer that has two flat tires and rusted wheel bearings. Inspect your trailer regularly to make sure it will be operable when it's needed.

If you take your boat home, you may want to leave it, and not your car, in the garage. A boat is lighter and more vulnerable to high winds than a car. If this isn't practical, put the boat and trailer where they'll get the best protection from wind, falling branches, and other hazards. Let some air out of the trailer tires and block the wheels.

Increase the weight of lighter outboard boats by leaving the drain plug in and using a garden hose to add water. (Rain will add a lot more water later.) This has the added advantage of giving you emergency water (not potable) if the main water supply gets knocked out by the hurricane. Place wood blocks between the trailer's frame and springs to support the added weight. On a boat with an inboard or sterndrive, remove the drain plug so the engine won't be damaged by flooding.

Secure the trailer to trees or with anchors or augers. Strip all loose gear, bimini tops, canvas covers, electronics, and other items and then lash the boat to the trailer.

Boats On Lifts

When asked, "Where wouldn't you want your boat to be in a hurricane?" just about all of the BoatUS CAT team members consistently say they wouldn't want their boat to be on a hoist or lift. Damage to boats on lifts has been high and has included boats being blown off cradles, bunk boards breaking (and spilling the boats), boats grinding against lift motors and pilings, boats being overcome by the storm surge, and boats filling with rainwater and collapsing lifts. The boats that do survive were typically subjected to only a slight surge, and the lift had been secured so that the boat and its cradle couldn't be tossed around by the wind, and the boat was covered to reduce the weight of rainwater.

Whenever possible, boats on lifts or davits should be stored ashore. If the boat must be left on its lift, remove the drain plug so the weight of accumulated rainwater won’t collapse the lift. If the tidal surge reaches the boat, it will be flooded, but leaving the plug in place is likely to result in more serious structural damage. Tie the boat securely to its lifting machinery to prevent the boat from swinging or drifting away. Some boats survived on their lifts when their owners used heavy straps to attach them to well-secured cleats on the dock. Plug the engine’s exhaust outlet and strip the boat. Make sure cockpit drains are free of debris.

Boats On High-Rise Storage Racks

In Hurricane Wilma alone, three large steel storage racks with thousands of boats collapsed. Typically, older storage racks are more vulnerable than ones that were constructed in the past few years. On newer buildings, the supports will be free of rust and the "loosening" effect of previous storms. Newer ones are also more likely to have been built to a higher standard with more and heavier structural supports to withstand higher winds. A marina owner should know how much wind a steel building was designed to withstand. If not, or if there is any doubt about the structure’s ability to stand up to an approaching storm, boats on storage racks should be placed on trailers and taken elsewhere.

Is Your Marina Stormproof?

Here are eight things to look for when it comes to selecting a hurricane-safe marina:

A marina should have a comprehensive hurricane plan that outlines who does what when a storm approaches. Slipholders may have to sign a pledge to secure their boats properly, whether ashore on in the water, which can prevent your boat from being damaged by someone else's. A "hurricane club" (often with a deposit) can guarantee you'll be among those hauled out first.

2. Protection From Wind And Waves

Open water is the biggest enemy of boats in a marina during a storm. Look for tall breakwaters and small openings to the big water outside. Smaller breakwaters may be underwater during a surge. Bulkheads should be tall and sturdy and not in need of immediate repair. High banks around the marina can help keep the worst of the wind at bay.

3. Floating Docks

These should have pilings tall enough to keep the docks from floating away during a high surge (even a Category 2 will have surge of 6 to 8 feet or more). Cleats should be heavy and well-attached.

4. Fixed Docks

These should be sturdy without loose pilings or rotting wood. Taller pilings make it easier to attach longer lines to help with surge. Cleats need to be thru-bolted through substantial structure in wood docks. Loose planks can be carried away in the surge, making accessing your boat after the storm harder and more dangerous. For all docks, larger slips allow more room for movement without banging into the dock.

5. Haulout Facilities

If your marina can't haul your boat (boats are nearly always safer ashore), you'll need to move your boat to another one, which may be hard to do when a storm threatens.

Higher ground for hauled boats mean less likelihood of being toppled by high water or even washed away. The best marinas have anchors in the ground that boats can be strapped to.

7. High-Rise Storage

Only those built fairly recently are designed to withstand real hurricane force winds. Most built in the last few years are, but ask your facility.

8. Marina Office

Buildings should be on high enough ground to survive the surge, otherwise management may take months to clean up, access records, and operate again.

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Charles Fort

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

Charles Fort is BoatUS Magazine's West Coast Editor. He often writes local news items for BoatUS Magazine's Waypoints column and contributes to Reports, in-depth tech features in every issue written to help readers avoid accidental damage to their boats. He is a member of the National Association of Marine Surveyors, he's on ABYC tech committees, and has a 100-ton U.S. Coast Guard license. He lives in California.

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• Ten Ways to Storm Proof Your Small S . . .

Ten Ways to Storm Proof Your Small Sailboat

Use these sailing tips to help prepare and protect your small sailboat in extreme weather when moored or anchored. Wherever you live, you can expect to be visited by severe weather once in a while. And if you've strolled through any marina after a major storm and seen the damage, this provides a real "wake up" call to us sailors. What else could have been done?

Much of what I'm about to show you was done with our large fleet at the Chapman School of Seamanship in Stuart, Florida to prepare for hurricanes. These boats included sail and power craft from twenty to fifty feet. Most of these boats were tied up inside of slips.

Read over this checkoff list. Add to it. But by all means, print off a copy and add it to your storm preparations. When the heavy stuff comes your way, you'll be glad you did!

Use extra line to double up springs and bow lines. If you need to make short lines longer, join them together with a double becket bend or two bowlines tied together. Bowlines are stronger, but require more line.

Position slip lines so that they are higher up on the pilings. This will help keep the boat in place when the storm surge arrives.

2. Add Chafing Gear.

Did you know that many boats are lost in storms because their lines saw through sharp chocks? Synthetic docking line has elasticity that--when under shock loads--can spring back and forth. This action can saw through a dock or anchor line in no time!

Use fine grit sandpaper to smooth the edges of chocks. Next, lash rags, canvas, split hose, or PVC tubing onto any line where it passes over a rub-rail or toe-rail, through a chock, or over the sharp edges of a Genoa track.

3. Put Out Horizontal and Vertical Fenders.

Hang extra horizontal fenders onto pilings and the hull where contact can be expected. This gives more area protection than vertical fenders. On the side next to finger piers, hang extra vertical fenders. If moored stern first, hang vertical fenders across the stern.

Start at the bow and work your way aft. Open up every locker and compartment to check for seacocks or ball valves. Shut off each seacock. Turn the handle perpendicular (at a 90 degree angle) to the hose.

This includes the head intake, sink and shower drain, engine raw water intake, and head overboard discharge seacocks. Leave both cockpit drain seacocks open to drain rain water.

5. Strip Away Canvas and Sails.

Get rid of windage that can cause the boat to "sail" inside her slip. Strip the boat of sail covers, dodgers, Bimini tops, enclosures, and all other canvas products.

Take this sailing gear home with you or stow it in a storage unit. Remove the mainsail and headsail. Storms can shred a roller furled headsail like a grater shreds a hunk of cheese.

Don't make the mistake of leaving this super expensive sail up in a blow. Remove the sail from the extrusion, bag it, and send it below or remove it from the boat.

6. Batten and Tape Hatches.

Are you sure those square hatches on your boat are watertight? Even the best production boats can leak like a screen door on a submarine from wind-driven rain in a storm. Secure hatches and opening ports. Tape around the inside edges with duct or sealing tape to add more protection from water intrusion.

7. Remove or Sink Dinghies.

Clear the deck of inflatable dinghies. If you have a hard (rigid) dinghy, take it home with you. If cruising in a remote area, pull the boat plug and sink the hard dinghy in shallow water to protect it from damage.

8. Secure Electronics, Charge Batteries, Check Pumps.

Shut down all electronics except for the electric bilge pumps. Charge both batteries so that they will have plenty of juice to run the bilge pumps. Test the float switch on each bilge pump. Lift up the float switch tab with your hand or a boat hook. Your pump should kick on within 1-2 seconds.

9. Put Out Anchors and Increase Scope.

Use two or more anchors. Some sailors recommend that you spread three anchors in a Y-pattern. Use a 10:1 scope. Add chafing gear where the rode contacts the hull or passes over a chock. Attach an extra length of chain to the bottom of rope/chain combination rodes. This increases holding power.

With limited time, set two anchors in tandem--or in-line. Shackle a long, heavy length of anchor chain to the crown of the main storm anchor. Shackle the opposite end of the anchor chain to a second large anchor. Tandem anchors have prevented vessels from dragging in the worst storm conditions.

10. Lock it and Leave It.

Under no circumstances should you stay aboard during an intense storm. This could lead to serious injury or worse. Lock your boat with a stout padlock. Check everything once more and evacuate the area. If you've done things right, your boat will take care of herself.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Follow these ten sailing tips to prepare your small cruising or racing sailboat to weather storms in port. You will be rewarded with the peace-of-mind that you have done everything possible for her survival--when heavy weather comes your way.

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Complete Guide to Storm Sails

Storm sails are popular safety measures that help you retain control of your boat in high winds. They also reduce the risk of knockdown.

In this article, we'll cover the most common types of storm sails and their uses. Additionally, we'll go over storm sail materials, cost, sizing, and tips from the sailing community. You'll also learn when (and how) to deploy storm sails at sea.

Storm sails are durable and compact sails designed for use in rough weather. They're smaller than regular mainsails and headsails. The most common kinds of storm sails are the trysail and the storm jib. Storm sails can be deployed alone or in pairs.

The information contained in this article was sourced from expert sailors and storm sail manufacturers. Additionally, we sourced technical specifications from reviewers and users of storm sails.

Table of contents

What are Storm Sails?

Storm sails are small and durable headsails and mainsails designed for use in rough weather. They are a fraction of the size of typical mainsails and headsails, and they attach to the vessel using a multi-point tie system.

Storm sails are almost always triangular regardless of what kind of vessel they're deployed on, which includes storm sails designed for gaff-rigged sailboats. This is because a three-pointed sail is durable and easy to deploy at the base of the mast. Three connection points are easier to deal with than four, and storm sails don't require the use of top spars.

Storm sails are typically bright orange in color to distinguish them from other canvas aboard the vessel. Additionally, high visibility material makes it easier to see the boat in dangerous conditions. This is especially useful in emergencies, and it helps avoid collisions with other vessels.

Storm sails are stronger than the rest of the sails aboard most vessels. They are designed to stand up against gale-force winds and heavy ocean spray. Most storm sails can be deployed rapidly without completely removing the mainsail or headsail.

How do Storm Sails Work?

The concept and function of a storm sail is simple. A storm sail is essentially just a reefed version of your headsail or mainsail. Storm sails provide propulsion in high winds, which is essential if you want to keep control of the boat.

Storm sails are useful because they are smaller than the smallest configuration of your typical sail setup. In other words, they give you a smaller sail plan than you could have achieved by reefing. During dangerous storm conditions, this could be the difference between a controllable boat and a knockdown.

Types of Storm Sails

Most vessels that carry storm sails have one for the forward sail plan and one for the after sail plan. This typically includes a trysail for replacing the mainsail and a storm jib for replacing the headsail. In some cases, vessels opt to carry only a single storm sail as an easy precautionary measure.

Vessels that only carry a single storm sail generally opt for a storm jib, as it can be easier and safer to rely on a headsail during foul weather conditions. Additionally, it frees up the mainsail for precise adjustments, as it's easier to reef and trim from the cockpit. The downside of carrying only a storm jib is that it requires someone to trek to the bow of the boat during hazardous conditions.

In addition to trysails and storm jibs, there are many sub-varieties of storm sails available today. Next, we'll cover a few of the most popular storm sail types and their intended uses.

Basic Storm Sails for Emergencies

Basic no-frills storm sails are available for typical cruising boats to use in emergencies. These simple, often brightly colored Dacron sails are easy to rig and compact for long-term storage. They are triangular and often flat, which makes them ideal for quick deployment.

They are the most affordable type of storm sail and often considered 'universal fit' for boats within a certain size range. In other words, you probably won't have to custom-order a basic storm sail setup for your production fiberglass cruising sloop.

Basic storm sails often come in a convenient and weatherproof storage box that's clearly marked for stowing with your other emergency gear. These are not the most efficient or durable storm sails available, but they're strong enough to improve your chances in a dangerous situation.

Racing Storm Sails

Storm sails have found a unique niche amongst some offshore racing sailors. Vessels that participate in offshore regattas in foul weather often rely on them to achieve high speeds. This is especially true in conditions that are too hazardous to deploy a standard sail plan.

There are not a whole lot of purpose-built storm sails for racing. However, many sailors who participated in ocean races choose higher-quality and more controllable storm sails. That said, ocean racers often choose storm sails with unique shapes and characteristics.

Racing storm sails are usually slightly larger than basic emergency storm sails. They often have a deeper reef and longer leech, which increases the size of the canvas and brings it closer to the deck. Additionally, these characteristics make the small sail more efficient and allow the vessel to reach higher speeds while retaining precise control.

Racing storm sails are often reinforced in key areas, which is done at the factory or after the fact by the owner. This is because they're more likely to be deployed more than once and left on extended periods. Sometimes, Racers opt to delete unreliable quick-rig features that are found on standard storm sails.

Custom Storm Sails

There are many reasons why a sailor might choose to have a custom storm sail produced. As far as cost is concerned, it's comparable to a typical custom sailmaking job. Custom storm sails can be made with unique dimensions to optimize their efficiency on a specific hull design.

Custom storm sails are sometimes produced with higher-quality materials than consumer models, which gives sailors additional peace of mind. In many cases, the unique design of some sailboats requires purpose-built storm sails.

Most sailmakers will produce storm sails upon request. However, you may have to provide additional specifications ahead of time. They can also reinforce consumer storm sails using high-quality material or make adjustments to provide a better fit for your boat.

What are Storm Sails Made Of?

Storm sails need to be strong and weather-resistant. Additionally, they need to survive long periods of storage in less-than-ideal conditions, such as in the bilge or under a deck hatch.

Modern sale materials such as Kevlar and laminates are strong, but they don't always perform well in long-term storage. As a result, storm sails are typically made with a thick sheet of good old Dacron.

Dacron is a popular type of polyester sail fabric that's found in all kinds of sailboats. The primary difference between a Dacron storm sails and run-of-the-mill sail fabric is color and thickness.

When to Use a Storm Sail

What sort of conditions warrant the use of a storm sail? This varies between boats, and also between captains and crews. But generally speaking, storm sails can be deployed in high-wind conditions when typical reefing and adjustments aren't enough.

The precise wind speed that causes you to deploy storm sail is impossible to predict without knowing your specific vessel's handling characteristics. However, storm sails are sometimes found in winds exceeding 30 or 40 knots.

If a knockdown is imminent, the best course of action is most likely maneuvering. It will be very difficult to rig a storm sail when the vessel is at extreme risk of being blown over. It's best to rig a storm sail when the boat is still under control, either by you or someone else.

How to Rig a Trysail

Storm sails rig up similarly to your regular sails. Precise installation instructions vary between boats and sail models, but you can expect to install them roughly the same way.

The luff and tack of the main storm sail (trysail) typically rig up using sheets to the spinnaker blocks on the mast. The storm sail sheet runs to a block on the deck and then to a winch, similarly to how a jib sheet would run.

How to Rig a Storm Jib

The storm headsail, or storm jib, rig up using an inner forestay or halyard. The storm jib is hanked on, and the jib sheet runs to block and winch on the deck. The storm sheet typically follows the same route as a regular job sheet.

Are Storm Sails Required?

Some sailors believe that the Coast Guard requires storm sails aboard all sailboats. This is not the case, as the USCG doesn't list storm sails on its roster of mandatory safety gear . The majority of sailboats don't (and probably won't ever) have a storm sail aboard.

While storm sails are not a legal requirement aboard sailboats, there are situations where sailors must carry them. Ocean races are an example of one such situation, as many offshore regattas mandate them. This is especially true in Northern latitudes, where rough weather and gale-force winds are commonplace. Most of these organizations don't require sailors to use them; they just require sailors to have them.

How Much do Storm Sails Cost?

Storm sails are typically affordable, at least compared to other emergency gear, such as automatically inflating lifeboats. Storm sail prices vary based on material quality, thickness, and size. Below, we'll cover the price and specifications of a typical storm sail as an example.

Our example model from National Sail and costs $640 . It's a conventional hank-on storm jib, which is the most common type. It has a luff of 28 inches, a leech of 22.5 inches, and a foot of 11.9 inches. It has an overall weight of 9 pounds. Based on its size, this model is designed for a boat around 40 to 50 feet in length.

As you can see, storm sails are relatively affordable, even for large boats. The prices you can expect to pay for a typical 30-foot cruising vessel are between $200 and $350, depending on the quality and thickness of the cloth.

Storm Sail Sizes

It's essential to find the right size storm sail for your boat. Storm sails vary in both dimensions and fabric weight (or material thickness). Most storm sail manufacturers produce trysails and storm jibs for vessels between 20 and 60 feet in length.

Are Storm Sails Necessary for Offshore Cruising?

The debate about the necessity of storm sails has been raging for years. The jury is still out whether sailors should keep one aboard. Some people swear by them, and others dismiss them as a needless complication when reefing and handling would suffice.

It comes down to your personal experience and judgment. Storm sails work, and there are many instances where they've been deployed and likely helped save vessels from knockdown or foundering.

That said, sailors rightfully note that they can be very difficult (and even dangerous) to deploy during storm conditions when captain and crew effort would be more useful trying to handle the vessel.

Storm Sail Use and Preparation

It's essential to practice with storm sails in windy conditions before relying on them in truly dangerous situations. Go out on a windy day and practice deploying and controlling your storm sails. Put a plan in place to get them up quickly and safely.

Make sure to wear a life jacket and harness when deploying storm sails or moving around the boat in rough weather. Ensure that you have a place to attach your harness along the way, especially in areas that you need to stand to rig your storm sails.

Also, make sure to find harness attachment points on both sides of the mast, as you never know what side the boat will be heeling when you need to deploy your storm sails. Once you're confident that you can deploy and control your storm sails quickly and safely, you'll be ready to rely on them as an additional safety measure in rough weather.

Should I Buy Storm Sails?

So, should you buy a set of storm sails? Again, the answer depends on your location, sailing conditions, and personal experience. If you live in an area where rough weather is common or if you intend to embark on an offshore race, it's worth considering a set of storm sails. For the price, storm sails are a cheap insurance policy for hazardous weather.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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How to Prepare your Boat for a Major Storm or Hurricane

We’ve seen some large hurricanes in recent years that have caused massive damage and affected many lives. With global average temperatures on a long-term upward trend, hurricanes will likely become more frequent and more devastating as they feed on warmer waters. For boaters, especially on the Atlantic coast, this means it is more important than ever to have a comprehensive hurricane plan in place to keep safe and limit the impact on your vessel.

BoatUS are experts when it comes to hurricanes and boating. Their hurricane guide is highly recommended, and we draw much of the information presented here from their guide. Get it here .

Do not wait until hurricane season in the latter half of the year to make a hurricane plan. This may seem obvious, but it is simply human nature to be more reactive than proactive, and with hurricanes, if you wait until a hurricane watch is announced, you are already much too late. If your boat is in a marina, start there. Ask the harbourmaster what the hurricane plan is and what your responsibilities are. Incorporate this information into your own plans. If your marina has a hurricane drill, attend it.

Remember you could be facing any or all of the following: 10’+ storm surge, heavy winds from all directions, large waves, heavy rainfall, and tornadoes. Be ready.

Secure Documents

Make sure you have all your documents together and stored safely. This includes insurance, registration, deeds, lease agreements, and photos from all angles of the vessel. Review your insurance and ensure you have adequate coverage.

Boat Location… is Everything

The most important part of your plan is finding the safest location for your boat. Location is the number one predictor of how well your boat will weather a storm. If you can’t move the boat, make the location you have as safe as possible.

Your best course of action is to get your boat ashore and into secure storage in your own garage or other covered facility well away from potential storm surge. If you must store it outside, remove electronics and drain plugs. It is also recommended to use non-flexing straps to tie your boat to the ground anchored with eye bolts in concrete or similar. Finally, remove anything that creates windage: bimini tops, covers, outriggers, antennas, rigging, booms, dinghies, anchors, davits, etc. Anything that can potentially catch wind and can be relatively easily removed should be removed or lashed down with extra care. Properly securing your boat this way may even lower your deductible.

If you cannot get your boat on land, the next best location is a “hurricane hole”, i.e. a canal, river, or other small waterway, preferably that is well away from open water, has tall banks, has sturdy trees, and few homes. Tie many lines from your boat to shore, keeping your boat in the center of the waterway. If the waterway is wide, then one side can be tied to shore while the other uses several anchors – the more lines and anchors the better. Remember to add the time it takes to get to your hurricane hole and secure your boat there to your plan, and then add extra time for the poor conditions.

A secure mooring in a quiet harbor is another good place to face the storm, provided that your mooring is solid. The best mooring by far is a Helical screw-type. Any tackle used to attach to this mooring will break before the mooring does. If you moor in an area vulnerable to hurricanes, upgrade your mooring now. Also, be sure your mooring chain is in excellent condition. If it hasn’t been inspected in a while, do it well before storm season. The advantage of a mooring is that the boat can swing to face the wind which reduces windage, so make sure it has room to swing 360 degrees without hitting anything.

If your boat will be at anchor, then you need to up your anchoring game. Two lines at 90 degrees, one shorter than the other works best. Improve this more by added a second anchor on each line to work in tandem. Allow plenty of scope, 10:1, and the heavier the lines, chains, and anchors the better.

Next to more dangerous territory: docks and marinas. The worst are cramped, fixed docks and floating docks with short pilings (the surge will carry docks up and over their pilings). The best are marinas with floating docks and tall pilings. Count yourself lucky if you are in the latter. To improve your chances in a marina, tie your boat away from dock edges and pilings. Use as many strong lines as possible and tie your boat so that it is held in the center of your slip. If you are alongside a dock, lengthen your lines and use offshore lines on anchors to keep your boat out from the dock. One of the main reasons these techniques fail is poor dock lines. Consider keeping an extra set of thicker and longer lines on hand to use only for your hurricane plan. If you are in the worst scenario, a cramped marina with short pilings, or a fixed dock, your best bet is to get your boat away from the marina entirely. Get it ashore or find a hurricane hole.

Final Thoughts

Here are a few more final points to increase your chances of good outcome after a major storm or hurricane.

• Stay tuned to the weather. A hurricane watch means a storm will arrive in the next 48 hours while a hurricane warning means a storm in the next 36 hours. How long does your plan take to execute?
• Never, I repeat, never ride out the storm on your boat. You are not only risking your life, but those who must come and rescue you.
• Lines chafe badly in storm conditions. It is very important to chafe guard all lines you use at all contact points.
• Make sure your cleats and chocks will fit your storm lines (which should be larger diameter than your regular lines). Reinforce cleats and chocks or upgrade before storm season.
• Reduce windage. Anything that can catch a bit of wind and is relatively practical to remove, should be removed. One of the worst culprits is roller furled sails, which inevitably come unfurled and catch wind, getting torn to shreds in the process.
• If your boat is weathering the storm in the water, be sure to have charged batteries to run the bilge pumps and backup batteries available.
• Remove all electronics. Electronics and water do not mix, plus theft is a consideration in a natural disaster.
• Seal any openings as best you can to prevent water damage. Consider points of entry such as ports, hatches, gauges, drains, engine exhaust ports, etc.
• After the storm, get to your boat as soon as authorities give the OK, and check out how you did. Take inventory. Take pictures. Be prepared to clean up a mess and water. Remember that salt water is corrosive so you may need to treat exposed interior metal. Consider there may be looters about. Finally, on your first time out after a storm, double check everything; there could be damage that is not obvious and may cause you trouble on the water.

Published April 17, 2019

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Become the Confident Skipper of Your Own Sailboat

Ways to protect your boat in storm conditions.

• Post author: Anns
• Post published: October 19, 2022
• Post category: Uncategorized
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Introduction

When you’re out on the water and a storm rolls in, you may not be able to escape its wrath. However, you can prepare your vessel so that it is as safe as possible during these harsh conditions. In this blog post I’ll discuss how to outfit your boat with a proper storm jib or headsail, how to use it properly during a storm and other precautionary measures you should take when bad weather strikes.

Outfitting Your Boat with a Proper Storm Jib.

A storm jib is a sail that can be deployed in place of the mainsail during severe weather. It’s a triangular sail made of lightweight material, sometimes constructed from rip-stop nylon or Dacron. A storm jib is used instead of a conventional mainsail when there’s not enough wind to power your boat through waves or gusts. Because it’s smaller than the main and has less surface area, it can be used when winds are light and even when they’re not blowing at all.

The benefits of having a storm jib on board are huge: you’ll be able to rig up quickly as soon as conditions become unsafe; you’ll have more stability meaning less chance for capsizing; and finally (and most importantly), you won’t lose your boat!

There are several different types available out there including ones designed specifically for racing boats (which tend to use quick release systems). But don’t worry if yours isn’t one—they’re easy enough to install yourself after watching some videos online or talking with someone who knows how theirs works!

Using the Storm Jib.

A storm jib is a large jib that you can use in heavy winds. If your main sail is already up and the wind starts to pick up, it’s time to pull out your storm jib. A storm jib is larger than the main sail and has more power. You should also make sure that all of your lines are secure so they don’t get tangled or damaged during high winds.

If you have trouble changing direction with a smaller boat like ours, we recommend using two mainsails: one on each side of our bow (front). This will help keep us stable while sailing because there will always be at least one side pointing into the wind no matter what direction we want to go!

Lowering Your Main Sail to Prepare for Poor Conditions.

When the wind picks up, you can lower your main sail. This will reduce the area of the boat that is exposed to the wind, thereby reducing its speed and making it easier for you to control it.

If you have time, pull in any excess sheets that are flapping around in the wind, particularly if they’re close to anything (like people) who could get hurt by a bunch of loose lines whipping around everywhere.

Heaving to in Heavy Winds.

The first and foremost option is to heave to in heavy winds. The term “heaving to” simply means to stop sailing forward and pull the sails as tight as possible. Heaving to is an excellent way of controlling your boat when you get caught in a storm. This technique will help you ride out the storm while keeping your boat from being damaged by waves or other objects that may be floating around in rough waters.

When making this decision, you must decide whether it is safe for your boat or not depending on its size and stability, as well as your own ability level at sailing it safely through such conditions (or any other reason).

Heaving to with the Main and Genoa Reefed or Furled.

Heaving To with the Main and Genoa Reefed or Furled:

As mentioned before, heaving to is a technique used to reduce the sail area on your boat and keep it from moving. This can be accomplished by simply furling or reefing in either the main or genoa. All you have to do is pull in the lines for these sails until they are as small as possible and then secure them so that they don’t flap about in high winds. You will also want to make sure that everything else on your boat is tied down securely because this will reduce excessive movement while underway.

By reducing the sail area on your vessel, you’ll be able to reduce its speed while still providing adequate power output through a smaller amount of canvas than when running under full sail conditions; this results in greater stability while underway which translates into comfort and safety for those aboard during stormy weather conditions such as gale force winds (35 mph). Additionally, reducing speed allows fuel consumption per hour during emergency situations where there may not necessarily be landfall within reachable distance (i.e., “out at sea”). Lastly but certainly not least important aspect: reduced windage makes handling easier!

Heaving to without Furling or Reefing the Main Sail.

Heaving to without furling or reefing the main sail is a good option for boats with large mainsails, but it’s best to be on a long reach and not in close proximity to land. Use this technique only if you have plenty of time before the storm hits, because it will take some time to set up and execute correctly.

To heave to, first turn off all sheet lines (attachments) and backwind all controls so that they are loose when the boat is heading into the wind. This will allow the sheets to run freely through blocks without catching on anything. Once you’ve done this, ease your jib as much as possible before setting it at dead slow so that there’s no pull from either side of your vessel; keep it trimmed until you’re ready for steering control again.

Now trim in both mainsheet blocks as tight as possible against their respective masts without creating any slack between them; these will probably be hard turns away from one another due to how far apart they are located from each other at rest position—this means you may need help holding onto them while they’re being tensioned out toward opposite sides of their respective vessels; make sure you don’t let go until everything is set up securely!

Other Precautions When Heaving to your Boat

• Make sure your boat is well secured.
• Make sure all lines are properly tied and secured.
• Make sure you have enough fuel.
• Make sure you have enough water.
• Make sure you have enough food.
• Check your radio for weather updates and make a note of any changes to the forecast, in case other boats may be out at sea as well. The last thing you want is to get caught in a storm that was predicted but not reported by anyone else nearby! You might also want to consider bringing along an emergency beacon or satellite phone so that if something goes wrong while heaving-to, there are reliable ways of communication with other vessels nearby who can come help out if necessary (or alert authorities). And finally…if possible…make certain that someone knows exactly where your vessel is located at all times during this type of voyage; there may come a time when SAR will need this info as well as AIS data from its system​

You can properly prepare your boat for stormy weather.

You can prepare your boat for stormy weather.

• Use a storm jib. A storm jib is the most effective way to protect your boat from bad weather, including storms and other potentially damaging winds. It should be used in addition to lowering the main sail so that you don’t have to worry about capsizing during a severe storm.
• Lower your main sail. When you lower your main sail, it will decrease the chances of being carried away by strong winds or rough seas during adverse conditions. However, lowering the main may also reduce visibility on deck and make steering more difficult if done incorrectly so take extra precautions when doing this step in order to avoid any accidents!
• Heave To: When heaving-to (or “hove-to”), a ship holds its position by sailing close hauled into wind with one or both points of sail aback (with sails set but aback so they don’t fill) while running off before the wind with reduced speed but zero direction change due to inertia . This strategy is often used in heavy weather when being blown downwind would mean being overtaken by high seas coming from ahead; however care must be taken when executing this maneuver as it can cause even more damage than just letting go all sheets/lines etc.. If not executed correctly then no amount of protection will save you from having your boat capsize!

The last thing you want is to be caught unprepared in a storm. Luckily, there are many options available to help keep your boat safe and secure in rough water conditions. When choosing what type of storm jib works best for you, consider these factors: the size and weight of your vessel, how much wind it can withstand before capsizing or breaking apart due to its size/weight ratio (and thus how high upwind), and how long it takes you get there. If none of these options work for what type of sailing experience that you’re looking for – don’t worry! There’s still plenty more ways out there too!

You Might Also Like

I love sailing because it is perfect for someone like me who is at heart a sailor. sailing could be the best way to relax especially when you are with your family and friends. it could help the kids learn about ocean animals such as whales, dolphins and other sea creatures., paying for sailboat a boats to buy or lease, leave a reply cancel reply.

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10 ways to prepare your boat for a hurricane

The climate experts at the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) continue to predict active Atlantic hurricane seasons in the coming years. Therefore, boaters in hurricane-prone regions need to take steps to keep their vessels safe from harm or at least minimize potential damage and injuries. To help, we’ve put together a few important tips:

Move the boat if you can. Protect it if you can’t.

• If your boat is trailerable, haul it out of the water and move it to a safe location as far from tidal waters as possible and away from trees that could topple. Remember to pull the drain plug and remove electronics on board.
• If it needs to stay in a marina berth, double all lines and rig-cross spring lines fore and aft, and attach lines high on pilings to allow for tidal rise or surge. Secure the vessel on the offshore side to solid pilings and make sure cleats and other attachment points are strong.
• If it will remain on a mooring, make sure the mooring is designed to withstand the load that will be placed on it by your vessel. Contact your marina or mooring provider to confirm the maximum load. Inspect chains and swivels that connect to the mooring buoy and double up on the mooring pendant.

Do not stay onboard.

During a hurricane, winds can exceed 100 mph and tornadoes are often associated with these storms. If you’re onboard during a bad storm, you are risking your life. Don’t wait until the last minute to prepare, take precautions, and keep yourself safe.

Cover all lines to prevent chafing.

Wrap all lines at where lines feed through chocks with tape, rags and rubber hoses or leather. Install fenders, fender boards or tires to protect the boat from rubbing against the pier, pilings, or other boats.

Charge batteries and make sure they can run automatic bilge pumps throughout the storm.

Consider adding back-up batteries and shut off all other devices that consume electricity.

Monitor weather broadcasts frequently.

You’ll need all the time you can get if you need to move your vessel, strip sails, derig and anchor.

Create and maintain an inventory of all items.

This includes personal belongings you leave on the boat and those you take off. Mark valuable items, so they are easy to find. Consider keeping a video or photographic record of the boat and its contents in a secure location.

Keep documents and insurance handy.

Consolidate all records in a safe place, including insurance policies, recent photos of the vessel, boat registration, equipment inventory, and lease agreement with the marina or storage facility.

Understand your responsibilities and liabilities.

Check your lease or rental agreement with the marina or storage facility to see what they cover and what you are responsible for.

Be cautious after a hurricane has passed.

Electrical wires could be downed but still “hot” because generators may still be operating. There could be stray electrical current from submerged outlets and/or shore cords in the water, damaged vessel systems, etc. Do not enter the water. Check for leaking natural gas and propane by smell only, not with matches or candles. Check dock lines and mooring pendants, and before you get underway, confirm that there are no submerged objects or debris in your path. Contact local authorities to make sure waterways are safe to navigate.

Maintain a list of key contacts.

It’s always a good idea to keep a list of key contacts handy that you may need throughout the boating season, such as your marina, emergency towing providers, and your insurance agent.

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This document is advisory in nature and is offered as a resource to be used together with your professional insurance advisors in maintaining a loss prevention program. It is an overview only and is not intended as a substitute for consultation with your insurance broker, or for legal, engineering or other professional advice. Chubb is the marketing name used to refer to subsidiaries of Chubb Limited providing insurance and related services. For a list of these subsidiaries, please visit our website at chubb.com . Insurance provided by ACE American Insurance Company and its U.S. based Chubb underwriting company affiliates. All products may not be available in all states. This communication contains product summaries only. Coverage is subject to the language of the policies as actually issued. Surplus lines insurance sold only through licensed surplus lines producers. Chubb, 202 Hall's Mill Road, Whitehouse Station, NJ 08889-1600.

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• Safety & Prevention

Where To Keep Your Boat During A Hurricane

The best predictor of whether your boat will survive a hurricane is where it’s kept. just as in real estate, the three most important considerations should be location, location, location..

• January 16, 2024

Going back as far as Hurricane Alicia in 1983, our BoatUS Hurricane Catastrophe Team (CAT) professionals have spent thousands of hours working to identify and recover damaged boats. They’ve seen firsthand what works and what doesn’t when a boat is prepared for a hurricane.

When asked where CAT team members would take their own boats if a hurricane warning were posted, most agreed: They’d have it hauled ashore. For many boat owners and marinas, hauling boats is the foundation of their hurricane plan. Some farsighted marinas and yacht clubs have evacuation plans to pull as many boats out of the water as possible whenever a storm is approaching and secure the rest in the largest available slips.

Securing A Boat Ashore

For instance, smaller open boats and high-performance powerboats with low freeboard will almost always be overcome by waves, spray, and rain. This is true even if the boats have self-bailing cockpits. Fortunately, most of these boats can be placed on trailers and transported inland.

Boats ashore should be stored well above the anticipated storm surge, but even when boats are tipped off jackstands and cradles by rising water, the damage they sustain in a storm tends to be much less severe than the damage to boats left in the water. Windage is also a consideration. If nothing else, reduce windage as much as possible (see Find And Fix Potential Breaking Points). Make sure your boat has extra jackstands, at least three or four on each side for boats under 30 feet, and five or six for larger boats. Jackstands must be supported by plywood and chained together to stop them from spreading. To reduce windage, some ambitious boat owners on the Gulf Coast have dug holes for their sailboat keels so the boats present less windage. Smaller sailboats are sometimes laid on their sides.

One technique that has proven very effective involves strapping boats down to eyes embedded in concrete. At least two marinas in Florida and one in Puerto Rico have used straps with excellent results. One of the Florida marinas strapped the boats to eyes embedded in its concrete storage lot. The other Florida marina and the one in Puerto Rico built heavy concrete runners (similar to long, narrow concrete deadweight moorings) beneath the boats to anchor the straps. (Straps made from polyester work better than nylon, which has more stretch). Even when the wind has been on the beam and water has come into the storage area, the straps held and boats stayed upright. An alternative tried at other marinas has been to use earth augers screwed into the ground to secure the straps. Results with the latter technique have been mixed; some have held while others have been pulled out. All things considered, any attempt to anchor a boat on shore is worth the effort.

Securing A Boat In The Water

Any boat in the water should be secured in a “hurricane hole,” which means a snug harbor protected on all sides from open fetch and unrestricted storm surge. (Don’t even think about riding out the storm at sea unless you’re the skipper of an aircraft carrier!) The trick is deciding which harbors will still be safer if a hurricane comes ashore and which ones will be vulnerable. Storm surge – high water – is a major consideration. A storm surge of 10 feet or more is common in a hurricane, so a seawall or sandy spit that normally protects a harbor may not offer enough protection in a hurricane.

Another consideration is rocks. Crowded, rock-strewn harbors are picturesque but not a good place to keep your boat in a storm, particularly if your boat breaks loose. If you plan to anchor, choose your bottom well for holding your type of boat with your type of anchors. Also, water can sometimes be blown out of the harbor, leaving boats stranded briefly. If this happens, your boat would rather settle onto anything but rocks.

At A Fixed Dock

Members of our BoatUS CAT Team estimate that as many as 50 percent of the boats damaged at fixed docks during hurricanes could’ve been saved by using better docklines – lines that are longer, larger, arranged better, and protected against chafing. If you decide to leave your boat at a dock, you’ll need to devise a docking plan that’s liable to be far different than your normal docking arrangement. By the time preparations are completed, your boat should resemble a spider suspended in the center of a large web. This web will allow the boat to rise on the surge, be bounced around by the storm, and still remain in position.

Take a look at your boat slip and its relation to the rest of the harbor. For most boats, you’ll want to arrange the bow toward open water or, lacking that, toward the least protected direction. This reduces windage and keeps the strongest part of the boat — the bow — facing the storm. If your boat has a swim platform, especially one that is integral to the hull, you’ll need to take extra care that the platform can’t strike anything. Boats have been sunk when their platforms were bashed against a bulkhead.

“Your boat should resemble a spider suspended in a large web.” –  Charles Fort

Next, look for pilings, dock cleats, trees — anything sturdy — that could be used for securing docklines. Avoid cleats that do not have sufficient backing. Just bolting them through dock planks will probably not suffice. Not all pilings are sturdy, though. Old wood pilings that are badly deteriorated should obviously not be relied on in a storm. The same is true of older concrete pilings, which seem to be more susceptible to snapping in half (and sometimes landing on boats) than their more pliant wood counterparts. Many of the boats that were wrecked in Hurricane Charley had been secured to concrete pilings that couldn’t stand up to the lateral stress and twisting. And at least one marina in Pensacola had almost all its concrete pilings fail. All things being equal, wood is a better choice unless the concrete pilings are relatively new.

Lines should also be a larger diameter to resist chafe and excessive stretching. On most cases, you should use ½-inch line for boats up to 25 feet; 5/8-inch line for boats 25 feet to 34 feet, and ¾- to 1-inch lines for larger boats. Chafe protectors (see Find And Fix Potential Breaking Points ) must be on any portion of the line that could be chafed by chocks, pulpits, pilings, and so on. To secure lines to hard-to-reach outer pilings, put the eye on the piling so that lines can be adjusted from the boat. For other lines, put the eye on the boat to allow for final adjustment from the dock.

At A Floating Dock

Because they rise with the surge, floating docks allow boats to be secured more readily than boats at fixed docks. There’s no need to run lines to distant pilings because the boats and docks rise in tandem. Floating docks only offer protection from the surge, however, if — a HUGE if — the pilings are tall enough to accommodate the surge. In almost every major hurricane, there have been instances where the surge has lifted floating docks up and over pilings. When that happens, the docks and boats, still tied together, are usually washed ashore in battered clumps.

If you plan to leave your boat at a floating dock, it’s critical that you measure the height of the pilings. Will they remain above the predicted storm surge? Pilings that are only 6 or 7 feet above the normal high tide probably won’t be safe. When floating docks have been rebuilt after hurricanes, the new pilings have almost always been much taller, up to 18 feet tall, and are far less likely to be overcome by surge than the 6- to 8-foot pilings that they replaced. Taller pilings are much more “stormproof.”

Canals, Rivers, And Waterways

Whenever canals, rivers, or waterways are available, they serve as shelters – hurricane holes – and may offer an alternative to crowded harbors and marinas if you have no alternative. Your mooring arrangement will depend on the nature of the hurricane hole. In a narrow residential canal, a boat should be secured in the center with several sturdy lines ashore (the “spider web”) to both sides of the canal. This technique was common to most of the boats in canals that survived recent hurricanes. Conversely, boats that were left at docks without the benefit of lines to both sides of the canal didn’t fare any better than boats at marina docks.

The boat should be facing the canal’s entrance and be as far back from open water as possible. Besides sheltering the boat, being away from the entrance should help with another consideration, which is the need to maintain a navigable waterway. Securing boats in residential canals is possible only if you make arrangements with the homeowners whose trees and pilings you’ll be using to secure your boat. This can be difficult if your boat isn’t normally moored in the canal. If your boat is already in the canal, getting other homeowners involved in planning for a hurricane increases the chances that your boat (and theirs) will survive. This is important because all it takes to wreak havoc in a narrow canal is one or two neglected boats coming loose.

In wider canals and waterways, boats should be secured using a combination of anchors and lines tied to trees ashore. More lines and anchors are always better. Try to find a spot that is well away from open water and that has tall banks, sturdy trees, and few homes. Moor your boat away from the main channel. Other considerations: A hurricane hole that ordinarily takes an hour to reach may take two hours or more to reach when winds and seas are building, bridges will likely not open as frequently once a hurricane warning has been posted, the bridges may be locked down for evacuation by vehicle, or the hurricane hole may be crowded when you get there. Plan on moving your boat early.

At A Mooring Or At Anchor

Mooring in a sheltered location can also be a good alternative to exposed harbors and/or crowded marinas. A boat on a mooring can swing to face the wind, which reduces windage, and can’t be slammed into a dock unless the mooring or anchor drags. The first question, then, is, will your mooring hold? As a result of numerous moorings being dragged during hurricanes and northeasters, a study by the BoatUS Foundation, Cruising World magazine, and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology found that a 500- pound mushroom buried in mud could be pulled out with 1,200 pounds of pull (supplied by a 900-hp tug); an 8,000- pound deadweight (concrete) anchor could be pulled out with 4,000 pounds of pull. A helix mooring, however, could not be pulled out by the tug, and the strain gauge recorded 12,000 pounds of pull — its maximum — before a shackle burst apart from the strain. Scope in each case was slightly less than 3:1.

The holding power of a mushroom or deadweight mooring anchor can be increased by extending the pennant’s scope, which has as much to do with the holding power of a mooring as it does the anchor itself. (Additional scope, while always advantageous, appears to be less critical with helix anchors.) Studies have found that when the angle of pull increases to 25 degrees, a mooring’s holding power begins to weaken precipitously. So in shallow harbors, where a scope of 3:1 can be had with, say, 20 to 30 feet of chain, the advantage of scope is all but eliminated in a storm by a combination of a large tidal surge and the high, pumping motion of waves. Note that in a crowded harbor, scope must be increased uniformly on all boats.

Finally, when was the last time your mooring’s chain was inspected? Chain that is marginal in the spring won’t be sufficiently strong at summer’s end to stand up to a hurricane. A harbormaster should know how long your chain has been in use and whether its condition could be iffy. If you have any doubts about your mooring, the chances of it failing can be reduced significantly by using one or two additional storm anchors to enhance its holding power and to decrease the room your boat will need to swing.

As with moorings, conventional storm anchors rely on scope — at least 10:1 if possible — to increase holding power. Heavy, oversize chain is also recommended; 50/50 is probably the optimum chain-to-line ratio. In theory, a riding weight, or sentinel, placed at the chain/ line juncture will lower the angle of pull on the anchor and reduce jerking and strain on the boat. During a hurricane, however, its value will be diminished by the extreme pressure of wind and waves, and a sentinel (and the weight of the chain) should never be relied on to compensate for lack of scope. To absorb shock, an all-chain rode must have a snubber (usually nylon line) that is 30 percent of the rode’s length. Without the nylon line, the surging waves and intense gusts are much more likely to yank the anchor out of the bottom.

BoatUS CAT team members have consistently found that boats using single working anchors were much more likely to have been washed ashore. Conversely, more and larger anchors (suited for the type of bottom) increased a boat’s chances of staying put. One CAT team member says he’s impressed with the number of boats that ride out storms successfully using two large anchors with lines set 90 degrees apart. With this technique, one rode should be slightly longer than the other so they won’t become tangled should they drag. Even more staying power can be had using the tandem anchoring technique — backing each anchor with a second anchor. Using tandem anchors allows the first anchor to dig a furrow so that the second can dig in even deeper. A study done by the U.S. Navy found that the use of tandem anchors yields a 30% improvement over the sum of their individual holding powers.

One more important note: Chafe gear is essential on any line, but it’s especially important on mooring and anchor lines. Recent storms have given dramatic evidence that a boat anchored or moored is especially vulnerable to chafing through its pennants. Unlike a boat at a dock, which is usually more sheltered and secured with multiple lines, a boat on a mooring is more exposed to wind and waves and will typically be secured with only two lines. Lines on the latter will be under tremendous loads and will chafe through quickly if they aren’t protected.

Trailerable Boats

A trailer is, or should be, a ticket to take your boat inland to a more sheltered location away from tidal surge. But your boat won’t get far on a neglected trailer that has two flat tires and rusted wheel bearings. Inspect your trailer regularly to make sure it will be operable when it’s needed.

Tip:  BoatUS Marine Insurance policies include named-storm haulout coverage, which reimburses 50% of the cost (up to $1,000) to professionally haul or protect your boat in preparation for a NOAA named storm in your area.

If you take your boat home, you may want to leave it, and not your car, in the garage. A boat is lighter and more vulnerable to high winds than a car. If this isn’t practical, put the boat and trailer where they’ll get the best protection from wind, falling branches, and other hazards. Let some air out of the trailer tires and block the wheels.

Increase the weight of lighter outboard boats by leaving the drain plug in and using a garden hose to add water. (Rain will add a lot more water later.) This has the added advantage of giving you emergency water (not potable) if the main water supply gets knocked out by the hurricane. Place wood blocks between the trailer’s frame and springs to support the added weight. On a boat with an inboard or sterndrive, remove the drain plug so the engine won’t be damaged by flooding.

Secure the trailer to trees or with anchors or augers. Strip all loose gear, bimini tops, canvas covers, electronics, and other items and then lash the boat to the trailer.

Boats On Lifts

When asked, “Where wouldn’t you want your boat to be in a hurricane?” just about all of the BoatUS CAT team members consistently say they wouldn’t want their boat to be on a hoist or lift. Damage to boats on lifts has been high and has included boats being blown off cradles, bunk boards breaking (and spilling the boats), boats grinding against lift motors and pilings, boats being overcome by the storm surge, and boats filling with rainwater and collapsing lifts. The boats that do survive were typically subjected to only a slight surge, and the lift had been secured so that the boat and its cradle couldn’t be tossed around by the wind, and the boat was covered to reduce the weight of rainwater.

Whenever possible, boats on lifts or davits should be stored ashore. If the boat must be left on its lift, remove the drain plug so the weight of accumulated rainwater won’t collapse the lift. If the tidal surge reaches the boat, it will be flooded, but leaving the plug in place is likely to result in more serious structural damage. Tie the boat securely to its lifting machinery to prevent the boat from swinging or drifting away. Some boats survived on their lifts when their owners used heavy straps to attach them to well-secured cleats on the dock. Plug the engine’s exhaust outlet and strip the boat. Make sure cockpit drains are free of debris.

Boats On High-Rise Storage Racks

In Hurricane Wilma alone, three large steel storage racks with thousands of boats collapsed. Typically, older storage racks are more vulnerable than ones that were constructed in the past few years. On newer buildings, the supports will be free of rust and the “loosening” effect of previous storms. Newer ones are also more likely to have been built to a higher standard with more and heavier structural supports to withstand higher winds. A marina owner should know how much wind a steel building was designed to withstand. If not, or if there is any doubt about the structure’s ability to stand up to an approaching storm, boats on storage racks should be placed on trailers and taken elsewhere.

Is Your Marina Hurricane Proof?

Here are eight things to look for when it comes to selecting a hurricane-safe marina:

1. A PLAN :  A marina should have a comprehensive hurricane plan that outlines who does what when a storm approaches. Slipholders may have to sign a pledge to secure their boats properly, whether ashore on in the water, which can prevent your boat from being damaged by someone else’s. A “hurricane club” (often with a deposit) can guarantee you’ll be among those hauled out first.

2. PROTECTION FROM WIND AND WAVES :  Open water is the biggest enemy of boats in a marina during a storm. Look for tall breakwaters and small openings to the big water outside. Smaller breakwaters may be underwater during a surge. Bulkheads should be tall and sturdy and not in need of immediate repair. High banks around the marina can help keep the worst of the wind at bay.

3. FLOATING DOCKS :  These should have pilings tall enough to keep the docks from floating away during a high surge (even a Category 2 will have surge of 6 to 8 feet or more). Cleats should be heavy and well-attached.

4. FIXED DOCKS :  These should be sturdy without loose pilings or rotting wood. Taller pilings make it easier to attach longer lines to help with surge. Cleats need to be thru-bolted through substantial structure in wood docks. Loose planks can be carried away in the surge, making accessing your boat after the storm harder and more dangerous. For all docks, larger slips allow more room for movement without banging into the dock.

5. HAULOUT FACILITIES :  If your marina can’t haul your boat (boats are nearly always safer ashore), you’ll need to move your boat to another one, which may be hard to do when a storm threatens.

6. ASHORE :  Higher ground for hauled boats mean less likelihood of being toppled by high water or even washed away. The best marinas have anchors in the ground that boats can be strapped to.

7. HIGH-RISE STORAGE :  Only those built fairly recently are designed to withstand real hurricane force winds. Most built in the last few years are, but ask your facility.

8. MARINA OFFICE :  Buildings should be on high enough ground to survive the surge, otherwise management may take months to clean up, access records, and operate again.

Charles Fort

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

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