furling for sailboats

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Mainsail furling systems: an expert guide

• Graham Snook
• December 21, 2020

Some sailors swear by mainsail furling systems, others swear at them. Graham Snook looks at way to keep your furling mainsail in check

In-mast furling mainsails (left) have evolved significantly, and vertical battens allow more roach and better sail shape. Credit: Graham Snook

Mainsail furling systems have come on a long way.

Sails no longer need to be wrapped around a boom, nor does an in-mast mainsail need to be the hollow-leached, baggy triangle we first saw decades ago.

Furling mainsail systems can now offer more sail area than a traditional slab-reefed mainsail.

Be that as it may, every slab-reefed sailor knows a horror story about in-mast or in-boom furling that is enough to make them steer well clear, while those that have furling mains wouldn’t put to sea without one.

There is little doubt that furling mainsails are gaining in popularity, even for serious offshore cruising boats.

Get mainsail furling wrong and it can lead to costly and potentially dangerous problems. Credit: Graham Snook

In 2018, 38% of boats sailing round the world in the World ARC had furling mainsail.

Hallberg Rassy reports that almost all new owners buying boats over 40ft opt for furling mainsail systems, with Discovery reporting a similar trend.

So has the reputation of furling mainsails been unfairly tainted, and are they more prone to user error, or have the systems ironed out the glitches?

Whether you’ve got a furling main on your own boat, or if you’ll be using one when you charter, it’s worth knowing how to avoid the pitfalls of furling mainsails.

How do furling mainsail systems work?

In an age where we expect everything just to be simple and to work, letting off one line, and pulling another to make the mainsail appear or disappear sounds appealing, but what is the best way to furl the mainsail?

Is there a correct way to do it?

‘Carefully,’ replies Jeremy White,of Elvstrøm Sails UK. ‘They’re mechanical systems and they need to be operated correctly.’

Whether you have in-boom or in-mast, they both work on a similar principle which anyone with a furling genoa will be familiar with.

Inside the mast is an aluminium foil that takes the luff of the mainsail, and in a boom a mandrel takes the foot of the mainsail; both the foil and the mandrel revolve to roll up the sail.

A lot of issues with in-mast furling are caused by the sail not furling properly inside the mast and the furl being too bulky or the sail rubbing on the inside of the mast.

Many in-boom problems are caused by an uneven furl with the sail bunching at one end or the other.

There are a number of issues to look out for with each system to ensure stress-free furling.

Different options

If you’ve bought a new boat that was ‘good value’ and it came with sails, question how good those sails really are.

Many original Dacron sails are built to a price that will get you on the water and get you sailing, but they may not be built for longevity or performance unless you’ve specified them and know what you’re getting.

There has been much advancement in furling mainsail design, improved materials, vertical battens, and increased sail area.

Many new furling mainsail systems present a larger sail area than that of a conventional slab reefing sail.

But what should you be looking for when buying a new sail?

‘Whichever sailmaker you choose, get the highest quality material you can afford,’ advises Jeremy.

It’s a false economy to buy cheaper sailcloth as it will stretch and you’ll be left with a baggy sail after a few seasons.

For example, the luff of laminate sail (on a 45ft yacht) might only stretch 15mm over its lifetime, but on a polyester sail that might be as much as 15 cm.

That excess sail has to roll up in the same space as did when it was new.

For those wanting maximum sail area, and sail support, full-length vertical battens are the way forward.

These support the leech giving a good full roach, and importantly, they support the sail over its full height which gives it rigidity while it’s being furled, whereas shorter, vertical roach battens can leave the sail unsupported at their base causing furling problems.

For those without the budget or desire for a battened sail using modern materials, a sail with a hollow leech still offers many advantages over a slab reefing system, namely ease of reefing, the ability to set exactly the right amount of sail, and the simplicity of stowing, even if you do lose some power from a smaller sail area and a less perfect aerofoil sail shape.

If you’re having new sails made consider getting them silicone-coated.

This helps the sail slide over itself making the furl inside the mast tighter.

In-mast furling

It may be a simple system, but how you unfurl and furl the main will help avoid problems.

If you were to look down from the top of the mast, the foil usually rolls onto the foil in anti-clockwise direction, that is, the unfurled sail comes off the starboard side of the foil, though it’s worth checking on yours.

This is the key to getting in-mast furling to work correctly; trying to furl on a port tack drags the full height of the sail over the side of the mast slot, adding friction where there shouldn’t be any.

Furling on starboard tack obviates most of this friction while you furl.

Full-height battens support a larger roach, but make the furled sail more bulky. Credit: Graham Snook

Whether letting the sail in or out, the first thing is to release the backstay (to straighten the mast so the foil doesn’t rub) and put the boat on a starboard tack – with the wind slightly forward of the beam – this is so the sail feeds cleanly into the mast and around the furler inside.

Unfurling the sail is usually pain-free if the sail was furled correctly.

With the yacht on a starboard tack and the wind forward of the beam, release the mainsheet and vang.

Ensure the furling line is released then pull out the sail using the outhaul.

Ease the outhaul as your furl so the sail doesn’t flog but isn’t loaded up either. Credit: Theo Stocker

You shouldn’t need to control the furling line as there should be no pressure on the sail, even on a windy day.

If you intend to be reefed, however, don’t let it run unchecked. When the right amount of sail is out, make off the furling line. If you’re reefed, tension the outhaul to give the sail the correct shape (flatter in stronger winds and when close-hauled) then set the mainsheet and vang and away you sail.

• Release the backstay (if you have one)
• Put the boat on a starboard tack – with the wind slightly forward of the beam
• Release the mainsheet and vang
• When the right amount of sail is out, make off the furling line
• Tension the outhaul to give the sail a correct shape, then sheet in

To furl the sail, after letting off the backstay and putting her on a starboard tack with the wind slightly forward of the beam, let off the mainsheet and then ease the outhaul a little and start to furl.

Always look at the sail as you’re furling – you’ll be able to notice issues as they happen and not after you’ve wound an inch-thick clump of sail through a half-inch gap.

Having different coloured lines can make things simpler for your crew. Credit: Theo Stocker

If your sail has full-length vertical battens ensure the first batten is parallel with the mast when it enters, and if reefing, leave a batten just outside the mast groove.

Keeping too much tension on the outhaul will drag the foil aft in the mast, bending it and causing the sail to rub against the inside of the mast, creating friction.

Once you’ve taken the slack out of the sail, ease the outhaul and take in on the furling line again.

Try not to let the sail flog as this also bends the foil and causes more friction.

Repeat the ease-furl process until only the UV protection strip is showing.

Sail on starboard with wind forward of the beam for easy furling. Credit: Theo Stocker

If you have laminate sails, and they have been furled away wet, try to dry them at the first opportunity.

If you’re having problems furling using the lines, don’t be afraid to go to the mast with a winch handle and furl the sail at the mast.

Try it one day, it is remarkably easy.

If you’re having to do anything different, such as raising the boom or chanting a prayer to the god of furling fails, it’s worth looking at your system in detail for problems.

• Release the backstay
• Ease the outhaul a little
• Take in on the furling line
• Keep easing the outhaul and taking in on the furling line
• Furl the sail until the UV strip is showing at the mast

Problem solving

If furling the right way still isn’t working for you, there are a number of things to consider…, 1. understand your system.

First to check is to have a look inside your mast at which way your system should furl.

If your furling system has the option, put a winch handle in the furling mechanism at the mast and turn it the direction indicated to make sure the sail is going into the mast in the correct direction.

Clicking over the ratchet at the mast before it’s time to furl will ensure it always rolls in the right direction.

2. Assess your sails

The biggest cause of problems is the sail itself – how old it is and the material it is made from.

Stretch in the cloth makes baggy sails, which furling systems will happily munch on.

Furling mainsails are cut flatter than conventional slab-reefing sails as accommodating the belly of the sail is problematic.

An old or baggy sail may cause jams, as will creases from not enough halyard tension. Credit: Theo Stocker

Some older furling mains may have be made with an inappropriate, fully-bellied shape.

If your polyester sails have a deep belly, think about getting new ones as you’ll be fighting a losing battle.

As the belly folds, it doubles the thickness of the furl, causing unsightly and inefficient creases at best, and hideous sail jams or rips at worst.

3. Adjust halyard tension

Excess halyard tension can also cause the fabric to bunch up; vertical creases at the luff cause the sail to fold over itself.

Vertical creases at the luff reveal too much halyard tension, and potential for more snags. Credit: Theo Stocker

To resolve this, release the halyard until you have horizontal creases at the luff, then add just enough tension to remove them, though you may need to adjust this when underway.

4. Check the backstay

While the mast is bending, the foil inside it remains straight; the furled sail will bind at the apex of the mast’s bend.

If all of this fails, it’s worth calling a rigger to check the foil tension.

If this has gone slack, as you furl the foil will bend and rub against the mast.

5. Smooth it out

The next thing to look at is reducing friction.

As is often the case, the lines to your furling gear and outhaul are led through various fairleads and blocks across the deck and up the mast.

Move deck organisers to give slacker turning angles. Credit: Theo Stocker

Make sure all the angles they have to go through are a wide as possible – consider moving them if not – and all blocks and sheaves are running smoothly.

A good wash with fresh water and a squirt of dry lubricant can work wonders.

In-boom furling

Not a new concept, in-boom furling is an elegant solution, but brings its own challenges.

Unlike in-mast furling, in-boom systems can be retrofitted in place of conventional slab reefing.

For an in-boom furling system to work efficiently, however, it has to overcome a number of problems.

To start with, have a crew on deck to watch the sail as it furls to spot any issues. Credit: Advanced Rigging and Hydraulics

First of all, the sail has to be led from the boom to the mast, but there needs to be space for the bearings for the central mandrel and the boom’s gooseneck fitting, so the whole sail has to move aft along the boom.

To combat this, many in-boom systems have a protruding track on the trailing edge of the mast, while other units have the reefing mechanism at the aft end of the boom, or sometimes you’ll find a combination of both.

Whatever the system, there is usually a flexible feeder to guide the sail from the boom and feed it into the mast track.

The furling drum at the outboard end of the boom brings the main closer to the mast. Credit: Advanced Rigging and Hydraulics

Another issue with in-boom furling is the bolt rope, as Andy Cross from Crusader sails explains.

‘The sail has to use a bolt rope, and with it comes friction. Unlike a furling genoa that may only be raised and lowered once a season, the mainsail is nearly always used so the luff tape has to be reinforced.’

Any wear or damage to the bolt rope also requires a new bolt rope along the full luff of the sail, as any repairs would soon wear through and increase the friction.

The necessary extra reinforcement at the luff brings with it another problem: extra cloth thickness at the front end of the sail.

When reefing, stop when a batten is just above the mandrel, then take in on the furling line. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

As the sail rolls around the mandrel there is more sail material at the luff than across the rest of the sail.

The solution?

To slightly raise the aft end of the boom, allowing the extra sailcloth at the luff to roll at a rate that matches the leech.

The angle from the mast to the top of the boom has to be 87° to the mast, 3° above perpendicular.

The full-length battens in the mainsail help stabilise the sail as it furls and the batten pockets have been attached to the sail to match the mandrel angle.

It’s the thickness of cloth at the luff and the battens that make the correct boom angle the most important part of the system.

The necessary bulk of the boltrope makes the boom angle critical.

Get that right and your life suddenly becomes a whole lot easier.

It’s essential to mark the vang when the boom angle is correct.

Some owners choose to make a strop, running next to the vang, out of a low-stretch material like Dyneema, so the topping lift can be pulled taught and the strop prevents the boom raising higher than it should.

When marking or limiting the boom angle, it must be easy for any crew to see, by day or night.

How to get it right

1. prepare to set sail.

‘Before raising, lowering, or reefing the mainsail,’ explains Kim Petersen, Elvstrøm Denmark’s in-boom sail specialist, ‘get into the habit of always releasing the backstay tension – this will successfully straighten the mast and takes any flattening tension out of the sail – and then making sure the boom is at the correct angle – this is extremely important.’

Be careful with electric winches not to over-tighten halyards. Credit: Graham Snook

To raise the sail, after slackening the back stay and adjusting the boom level, point the boat into the wind, release the mainsheet and take up on the mainsail halyard, making sure that the furling line can run free as you hoist the mainsail.

Once set, increase the halyard tension until the horizontal creases at the luff have just gone.

2. Reducing sail power

If you don’t need full sail, only raise the sail until the nearest batten is at the mandrel.

Rather than being able to reef at any point, where the lower battens are fitted, the sailmaker will have reinforced the sail to take the clew loads.

Not reefing at these points means an area of unreinforced leech could be required to take a load it was not designed for.

Each batten represents a reefing point. Credit: Graham Snook

You’ll end up with fullness at the foot of the sail and a stretched leech, or a damaged sail.

If you need to flatten the sail, for better pointing or in stronger winds, take in on the furling line without adjusting the halyard tension.

This will give the same result as using a cunningham to tighten the luff.

Furling the main

When lowering the sail, release the backstay and set the boom at the correct angle.

It’s then best to take all the pressure off the sail by heading into the wind.

It doesn’t matter if the sail is flogging; the battens keep the sail rigid and support it as it furls.

If there is any pressure on the sail, this will cause it to furl unevenly.

With in-boom reefing you should still have a good sail shape even when deeply reefed. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Unlike an in-mast furling system, where the sail is visible, on an in-boom system everything is happening on top of the boom, overhead and out of sight.

If you have a crew member spare and it’s safe, sending them to the mast to keep an eye on the sail as it furls can prevent damage, at least for the first few times using the system.

Pull in on the furling line, slowly and smoothly releasing the mainsail halyard, but keep a bit of tension on it.

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If you have too much tension the sail will want to roll away from the mast; if you’re seeing creases running from the bottom of the track to the boom at 45°, release the halyard a little more.

If the sail is rolling up toward the mast, you’ll need to increase the tension a little.

As the sail furls, the luff tape will naturally first roll aft, then move forward and repeat this – it’s all perfectly normal.

Once the sail is fully down, tuck the head into the boom if your system allows it, and add the sail cover.

Reefing underway

To reef when sailing, release the backstay and set the boom angle.

In rough weather, or when there are big seas, it’s best to take up on the boom’s topping lift to secure the boom and stop it rising and falling as the yacht goes over the wave crest.

Cover the sail once stowed to protect from UV. Credit: Advanced Rigging and Hydraulics

You’ll find it easier if you can bring the boat onto the wind and release the mainsheet to remove all drive from the mainsail; if the sail is flogging it’s depowered and can still be furled.

Next, take in on the furling line while slowly and smoothly easing the halyard as the sail furls.

Graham Snook is a marine photographer and journalist who has been involved in testing yachts and equipment for over 20 years. Credit: Graham Snook

Once you’ve reached a point where the batten is at the mandrel on top of the boom, make off the halyard and then furl the sail until the batten is under the mandrel.

Without reefing pennants to hold and support the clew of the sail, the loads are transferred to the batten and the cloth around it.

Because of this, it’s recommended that for in-boom reefing mainsails, a stronger stretch-resistant cloth like Dacron reinforced with Vectran or Dyneema or a tough cruising laminate cloth be used.

Whichever mainsail furling system you have or choose, spending a bit of time practising what works and what doesn’t on your system, at a time when it’s convenient to you, will pay dividends when you find you do need to reef.

Mainsail furling has had a bad reputation in the past, but used properly and with a little care, there’s no reason why it shouldn’t give you trouble-free sailing for years to come.

To raise the sail

• Release the backstay tension
• Make sure the boom is at the correct angle – use a strop or mark the vang if necessary
• Head up into the wind – it doesn’t matter if the main flogs as it goes up
• Release the mainsheet
• Take up on the mainsail halyard, but do not overtighten

To lower the sail

• Make sure the boom is at the correct angle
• Point the yacht into the wind
• Take in on the furling line as you ease the halyard at a steady rate

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How to Choose a Furling System for Sailboats

We tell you how to choose a furling system for sailboats , what types of such systems exist, what are their advantages and disadvantages.

Sailing Problems?

On a cruising yacht, the number of "working hands" is normally limited: there are usually no more than two crew members on watch. But there are yachts on which the entire crew consists of four or even three people, not to mention those desperate brave men (or madmen) who take on long voyages alone! Meanwhile, working with sails takes a lot of time and effort.

Any significant change in the speed and direction of the wind or the course of the yacht forces you to change the sails. If you, for example, will not be able to finish cleaning a huge genoa on time, not have enough time to reef or remove the mainsail, then a wind flurry flying in could rupture the sail or even break the mast. Couldn’t lay down and fasten the lowered mainsail on the boom in time - the wind will ruffle it, part of the sail may end up overboard and then it will be difficult to “tame” it.

If you add that at the same time, sometimes for a long time, crew members working with sails have to be outside the cockpit, on the open deck, often during a large heel and roll, that is, in far from always safe conditions, then we can safely say: any improvement aimed at speeding up and simplifying sail operations will be useful, save time and effort, and most importantly - make sailing safer.

What devices for facilitating the setting and cleaning of sails and reducing their area can be offered to yachtsmen sailing on cruising racers and tourist yachts?

One of these devices is the sail furling system.

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Who Solved the Problem and How

The glory of the invention of the first furling system belongs to the Englishman (who would doubt it) Major E du Boulay, who lived at the end of the 19th century. For the reliable operation of the staysail, he sewed a wooden rail into the luff, which later became known as the headstay pier. It rotated, winding the sail over itself, with the help of a line wound around a cylinder. At the beginning of the next century, Wykeham-Martin, a compatriot of Boulay, included roller bearings and a drum with cheeks in this spinning system. By the middle of the century, such a twist was already on display on many cruising yachts. After some improvements in the 60s, the furling system acquired the form familiar to modern sailors.

The very idea of changing the sail area due to the twisting of the sail was received with a bang by marine engineers. In modern yachting, the staysail furling system has spread to other sails: gennaker, mainsail, and even straight sails. Devices appeared that retracted the sail into the mast or into the boom.

Benefits of a Furling System

As far back as the 19th century, sailors of sailing ships appreciated all the advantages that this invention of Boulay provided them.

Modern yachtsmen know from their own experience that properly selected sail furling systems allow:

• promptly reduce or increase the sail area in accordance with the meteorological specifics in the navigation region;
• significantly simplify the management of sails, reduce the physical effort expended;
• reduce the number of crew members involved in the management of a sailing vessel;
• it is easy to manage a small sailboat on a voyage by yourself;
• significantly increase the comfort and safety of sailing;
• reduce the overall load on the spars in dangerous situations.

Types of Roller Furling Systems

The roller furling system makes it easier to control the front sail, its deployment and tension adjustment. The furler for the staysail is an example of the most common type of this system. It allows the helmsman to adjust the sail from the cockpit without the need for a large crew or excessive fuss on deck. At the same time, the skipper, using the furling system, can quickly reef the front sail in bad weather.

A roller furler is a system of spindles that can be rotated through a cable to achieve the furling of the sail around the halyard. Modern yachts no more than half a century old do not even require forestay upgrades to install a roller furling system, the most common types of which are:

• with the head swivel - ideal for universal use, the most popular;
• with the wire luff - ideal for headsails, cheaper than the head swivel;
• with the internal halyard - the most resource efficient.

Let us dwell in more detail on these three main types of furling systems for sailboats.

The Head Swivel Furling System

This is the most popular one because it is easy to install and operate and it’s quite reliable. The installation is standard with fastening immediately behind the stay and using a staysail halyard.

The head swivel includes a drum that sits at deck level and a smaller diameter spindle that attaches behind the top of the staysail. Ball bearings provide easy and smooth rotation.

The sail is attached to a wire halyard and then to a larger spindle - a drum at the base of the system. A cable is connected to the drum, which goes from the eye placed on the deck to the cabin.

If sailing conditions require the front sail to be unwound, untie the staysail hoist and pull the staysail sheet to turn the sail. To reef the sail, do the opposite: pull on the staysail, releasing the staysail sheet.

With the help of this system, you can act very quickly, moreover, it is intuitive and simple. Therefore, the system head swivel is often used on racing and cruising sailboats. The only downside of this product is its price, but as they say, you get what you pay for.

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The Wire Luff Furling System

This furling system is most suitable for small sailing craft such as coastal cruisers. The installation of this type of furling does not impose requirements on the type of sail, since the system is universal, it can be used on a yacht with several types of front sails.

For offshore navigation, it is not reliable enough, especially in strong winds - it is impossible to reef the staysail. In addition, the sails sag a little, because the wire luff does not provide the necessary lateral support.

They are also not suitable for racing and offshore cruising, as they cannot withstand the loads. In other conditions, they can be successfully used.

Boaters appreciate this furling system for its ease of installation and operation. Installing this system does not require any changes to the sails and rigging.

Another important advantage: the wire luff models are half the price of the head swivel.

The Internal Halyard Furling System

To install this system, an existing forestay is used – that’s where it’s unique. The spindle drum, through which the forestay passes, belongs to the bottom-up furling system. Due to the location of the drum on the forestay, the deck is more convenient for movement, even though in this system the drum is larger than in other systems. The fact is that, compared to the wire luff and the head swivel, the spindle drum system of the internal halyard model is located further.

Advantages of the internal halyard system are the reliability and at the same time smaller price compared to head swivel ones. They do not overload the space on the boat, you don’t have to pick up special sails for them. They are simpler in design, have fewer parts and rarely break.

All of the above explains their popularity among skippers who equip the yacht for offshore navigation.

But keep in mind that with this product it is difficult to reef the sail in strong winds, as is the case also with the wire luff. The skipper will need to be able to handle standing rigging and manage tension on the halyard.

How to Calculate Furler Size for Spinnaker and Code 0

The choice of the furler for the so-called flying sails depends on several parameters: the length and type of boat (single-hull or multi-hull), area and type of sail, displacement. Depending on these parameters, the maximum working load in kg that the spinning system can withstand is selected. You can use a ready-made table.

Frequently Asked Questions FAQ

What are two types of furling.

Initially, all spin systems were ascending, that is, directed from the bottom up. In modern times, this system is perceived as traditional and is often used for the staysail and genoa. In such a system, the drum is spun at the base of the sail. When folding, the sail begins to twist also from the base.

The top down furler is a more recent development for the Code 0 and asymmetric spinnakers.

What size are furling lines?

Usually, you want the cable with anti-torsion and the correct length - the quality of the twisting system depends on this. To get the number, you should accurately measure the length of the luff of your sailboat, as well as the height of the lower reel and the upper swivel with a carabiner. Add 0.6 m to the total sum for clamps and thimbles and you get your size.

What is a top-down furler?

A furling system for more efficient placement of Code 0 sails and asymmetric spinnakers that has recently been developed. With this system, the winding of the sail starts from above and goes to the base, which is not connected to the drum, but is constantly in a free state.

Can you reef a furling mainsail?

The furling mainsail reefs even easier than the furling jib because it has no carriages. It also has reef markers that you can follow to reef the mainsail to the first reef, second reef and so on. To go on reef up, wind the mainsail furler and release the mainsheet until you are satisfied with the result. To go down a reef, you need to follow the reverse process: wind the mainsail and release the mainsheet until the mainsail covers the area you need.

Another thing is that the leech of the furling mainsail is not shaped as a sickle, since it cannot be equipped with non-furlable battens. Therefore, for the convenience of sail control, you have to pay with losses in aerodynamics.

If you have any questions about furling system for sale, contact the marketplace experts. The topRik team are practicing yachtsmen and ardent sailing sport lovers. They will help you choose the ideal furler for your type of sailboat.

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More than 3000 Monohulls and Catamarans Sailing with Leisure Furl ®

Hoist, reef, and stow your mainsail from the safety of your cockpit.

Leisure Furl in-boom furling is the world’s most popular and well-tested mainsail furling and reefing system. With thousands installed, and millions of offshore miles sailed, it has become the boom furler of choice for experienced performance cruisers around the world. Decades of real life experience tells them they can trust Leisure Furl for smooth reliable operation in even the roughest conditions.

Don’t just take out work for it, let veteran sailing Journalist, Tom Cunliffe tell you his story:

Safe and Easy Mainsail Furling Control from the Safety of Your Cockpit

With a Leisure Furl boom furler, one person can quickly and easily raise, reef, or furl your mainsail without leaving the safety of the cockpit. Just unroll the mainsail from inside the boom furler and go sailing. If the wind comes up, simply reef the mainsail by rolling it back into the boom furler to the desired height. With Leisure Furl, each batten becomes a reef point, so there are virtually unlimited mainsail reefing options. When you’re done sailing, there is also no need to get up on a rocking and dangerous cabin top to flake and sail tie your mainsail, or to stuff it into a large and unsightly lazy jack pack. With Leisure Furl you simply roll the mainsail back into the boom furler and pull the integrated sail cover closed. It’s that easy!

Boom Furling is Far Safer than In-Mast Furling Alternatives

Boom furling also allows for safer troubleshooting because everything is within reach at deck level. With in-mast systems, jams and problems can happen high above the deck, possibly requiring a dangerous trip up the mast to affect any repairs. With Leisure Furl, should a problem occur, our exclusive ratcheting mandrel design allows you to quickly release the system with the pull of a pin so the mainsail be manually rolled back into the boom using a winch handle.

Superior Sail Performance

Unlike in-mast furling systems that require a flat, inefficient battenless mainsail to avoid jamming, Leisure Furl’s elegant in-boom furling design allows the sailmaker to build in a deeper mainsail draft with full length battens. This significantly improves light wind sailing performance so you can do less motoring, and enjoy far more sailing.

Boom Furling Designed to Fit Your Sailboat

Whether you enjoy day sailing, coastal cruising, or true offshore bluewater passagemaking, each new Leisure Furl boom furler is custom engineered to fit. We use a proprietary multi-factor design program to spec your boom, and then build it to exactly fit your boat’s dimensions and sail plan. Available for boats ranging from 27’ to 70’, we offer three base models designed to fit your sailing type, including the Offshore, the Passagemaker, and the Coastal. All three Leisure Furl models can be made of aluminum or carbon and customized with a variety of finishes to match your aesthetic needs. With proper installation and a quick training session, a new Leisure Furl in-boom furling system is the safest and easiest way to set your mainsail, especially with a shorthanded sailing crew.

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Testimonials

Our Leisure Furl Coastal, in boom, mainsail-furling system has been installed on our Catalina 30 for approximately six months now. We could not be more pleased. The system has worked flawlessly from the day it was installed. It has given us the confidence to sail short-handed in conditions where we would have hesitated with a conventional reefing system. My wife especially likes not having to deal with the sail ties and the dirty mainsail cover. The design, engineering and production quality of the Leisure Furl Coastal™ system is better than other systems that we looked at.

Sincerely. William E. Garrett, Jr., CPM President Inter-Pacific Asset Management Westminster, California

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• Sailing, Rigging & Deck

Sailing made easy: Everything you need to know about roller furling systems

What does a furling system on board sailing yachts do? A furling system allows you to set, recover and partially reef your foresail (genoa or jib) conveniently and practically from the cockpit. These systems are now fitted as standard on most sailing boats thanks to the ease and effectiveness of the system and greater safety when furling and setting. Find out everything there is to know about roller furling systems in this SVB guide: what they are, the main differences, features and advantages, which ones to choose, how they work and why to have them on board.

Roller Furling Systems for Sailboats

• Advantages of a furling system
• How it works
• The ideal furling system

Installation and Maintenance

• Retrofitting
• Maintenance

Ultimate sailing convenience: The advantages of roller furling systems on sailboats

The use of furling systems has undoubtedly revolutionised cruising and regatta sailing since they first became available some years ago. These practical systems allow the sail to be furled without time-consuming hoisting or lowering each time you go sailing. Using a practical furling system, the foresail can be easily furled from the cockpit, without you or your crew risking life or injury on deck, as it eliminates the need for a crewmember to manually change or reef the jib or genoa. A furling system is certainly an efficient, easy and enjoyable way to deploy or stow sails on a yacht. However, whether or not such a system is appropriate for you largely depends on the size of your vessel and the sort of sailing boat you own.

Nevertheless, the obvious benefits outweigh the disadvantages, which is why a furling system is now standard equipment on almost all sailing yachts. The convenience of not having to recover, set, change or stow your sail is a big advantage! A roller furling system minimises or eliminates the need to carry additional headsails, resulting in not only increased room below deck, but also the removal of the laborious task of lowering and removing your jib or genoa after each voyage.

Roller reefing is useful when overlapping genoas obscure visibility. By reefing the genoa a few turns you can have a clearer view ahead leeward, which shortens the sail and increases visibility - important for safety and peace of mind. A furling system allows you to reef the headsail completely or partially. This way, even if you don't have experienced crew members on board, you can still safely manoeuvre your boat and cope with any wind gusts.

Roller Furling

How does a furling system work?

Roller furling - how it works.

A roller furling system allows you to roll or wrap your foresail around the headstay. This not only makes sailing easier, but also improves safety by allowing reefing without the crew having to go on deck in bad weather. To understand how to use a roller furling system, it's first important to know how it works, what specific steps to take when using it and to observe important safety measures. Using a roller furling systems is a relatively straight forward affair, but correctly furling the staysail is not as easy as it may first seem!

The setup of a roller furling system consists of a wire, foil, or spar around which the sail is spun. This is controlled by a furling line that is pulled or released from the cockpit. The foil is actually an aluminium track, up which the sail is fed all the way to the top. At the top of the track and at the bottom, the sail is on a swivel, which allows the sail to spin out while a drum rotates. The drum takes up the extra slack from the furling line as the sail is opened by pulling gently on the sheet and is furled by pulling the furling line. It is advisable to keep slight back tension on the sail while furling by leaving one wrap of the sheet on the winch. Pull the furling line to wrap the sail tightly around the forestay/headstay. To partially furl (reef) the sail, pull the furling line until the desired size of the headsail is reached, then belay the line. The headsail can thus be continuously adjusted to any size.

During furling or unfurling you should maintain a light pull on the sheet and furling line at all times. This keeps the furling line neatly spun and unspun around the drum and reduces the risk of an "override", where the furling line binds on itself and makes further unfurling difficult. Take special care that the furling line is of the correct length. It should still be able to make about 3 to 5 turns around the drum after the sail is fully furled and pulled tight. Generally, the optimum length is between one and a half and two times the length of your boat.

Ensure that the foresail halyard maintains an angle of 5° to 10° to the forestay when the sail is set on the furling system. To ensure proper reefing system function, the halyard must not run parallel to the forestay. Pay particular attention to the specifications in the assembly instructions. Alternatively, special fairlead blocks can be installed to allow the desired angle.

If the drum of the roller furling system gets in the way of manoeuvring the anchor at the bow, it can be raised with an eye/fork extension or two stainless steel chain-plates attached via a hinge to the mainsail at the bow.

How do I choose the right roller furling system for my boat?

If you want to install a furling system on your boat, there are a few things to consider first. This includes the size and weight of your boat, the area of the headsail and the diameter and length of the forestay. In order to find the right furling system, most manufacturers offer general guidance based on a boat’s overall length and class.

Having instant control of the sail with maximum surface area, as well as the capacity to navigate larger boats with a high level of safety and control, especially while sailing solo, are strong reasons that have impressed boat owners all over the world for many years. A clear view ahead, as well as the ability to recover and set sail fast, add to the appeal of furling systems.

Roller furlers are safe and convenient, but they are also heavy systems that can inevitably cause forestay sag. If sag is too much, it will affect sailing performance, especially when the wind picks up, but also in particular when sailing upwind. In addition to adjusting the backstay, some rig types also allow the tension of the upper shrouds to be increased in order to influence the leeward slope.

How can I retrofit a roller furling system?

The first thing to do before you start to fit your roller furling system is to familiarise yourself with the installation manual. It contains detailed and illustrated instructions that will enable you to assemble a roller furling system correctly. It should be noted, however, that the assembly steps may vary depending on the model and on the profile configuration and the number of parts to be installed.

The manufacturers PROFURL , NEMO and FURLEX offer comprehensive instructions on how to install a roller furling system. Take a good look and then decide for yourself whether you think you can install the system on your own. If in doubt, please get help from friends and/or boat neighbours who have already carried out such an installation. Local sailmakers and service providers in the harbours are also happy to provide guidance and tips. Please also bear in mind that the existing headsails must be adapted to the requirements of the furling system. This work can only be carried out by a specialist company (sailmaker). Although some manufacturers allow upright mounting as an option, we always recommend that you mount your furling system in a horizontal position. Do this especially if your vessel is in winter storage, as it ensures better stability and potential loads on the mast can be reduced.

Does a furling system require regular maintenance?

Furling systems are designed to minimise the need for maintenance and servicing. Nevertheless, this does not mean that maintenance is totally unnecessary. If you want to maintain the functionality and efficiency of your furling system, regular maintenance should be carried out.

To maintain full functionality of your roller furling system, you should clean it regularly with fresh water to remove salt deposits and dust from the drum and the inside. Some roller furlers require additional lubrication during operation. Be sure to follow the instructions in the user manual.

Further reading: Roller Furling Systems, Jib Furlers and Accessories

Don't compromise on the quality of your new foresail furling system. Even if you are on a tight budget - SVB has the right product for you! Discover our selection of NEMO , PROFURL and FURLEX foresail furling systems in various sizes - all available for you to select according to boat type, forestay diameter and length. In our categories Roller Furlers, Jib Furlers & Accessories you will not only find high-quality furling systems, but also matching accessories, such as drums, swivels and profiles from brands like PFEIFFER , TOP-REFF , BARTON and OLEU WATERSPORTS all at unbeatable prices! Are you looking for individual spare parts for your FURLEX roller furling system? No problem! Check out our spare parts finder for FURLEX furling systems !

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The ins and outs of in-mast furling mainsails.

What is an in-mast furling mainsail?

Unlike a traditional mainsail that is hoisted and doused vertically with a halyard, an in-mast furling mainsail wraps around a tube inside a hollow mast. It is unfurled by an outhaul line and furled back in with a line labelled as the "inhaul."

Five yachts in the Modern Sailing School & Club fleet have in-mast furling mainsails:

• Andiamo (Catalina 36)
• Grey Goose (Beneteau Oceanis 37)
• Survivor (Beneteau Oceanis 38)
• Liberty (Beneteau Oceanis 38.1)
• Attitude Adjustment (Beneteau Oceanis 41)

Furling Mainsail Advantages 

• A furling mainsail is easy to reef and un-reef from the cockpit while underway - a great advantage in San Francisco Bay where winds can be highly variable.
• There's no need to flake and cover the mainsail when done sailing. Roll it up, close the line clutches, and you're done!
• Furling mains are easy to handle with short-handed crews.
• An in-mast furling mainsail cannot have horizontal battens, which means less control over sail shape, especially as the sail ages.
• In-mast furling units consist of many moving parts, which require routine service and can fail. Modern Sailing performs preventative maintenance and inspects in-mast furling units every two weeks.
• If not handled properly while furling and unfurling, the sail may bunch up and jam inside the mast.

It's important to know how to properly handle an in-mast furling mainsail in order to prevent problems later on.

How To Unfurl The Mainsail

Your goal is for the crew to work together to unfurl the sail in a controlled manner. The trick is to maintain slight tension on the inhaul line as the sail comes out. 

• If the dodger obscures the view of the sail, have a crew member stand where he or she can monitor the sail as it comes out.

• Open the mainsheet clutch and loosen the mainsheet. This will prevent the sail from accidentally powering up while being pulled out. (Note: always leave the mainsheet clutch open while the sail is unfurled or being furled.)
• Open the boom vang line clutch and loosen the line. This allows the boom to rise as the sail comes out.
• Wrap the outhaul line once or twice around a cabin top winch.
• Open the inhaul line clutch. Hold onto the inhaul line in one hand and ensure the rest of its tail is free to run.
• Pull the outhaul line while maintaining hand-tension on the inhaul line as the sail comes out. This is easier if one crew member pulls the outhaul while another keeps some tension on the inhaul.  Without tension on the inhaul line, you run the risk of the mainsail unfurling too quickly, which can cause the sail to luff violently and tangle up the outhaul.
• Tuck the outhaul into the winch's self-tailing line jaw and if necessary, grind  the winch handle until the sail is all the way out.
• Once the mainsail is fully unfurled (or unfurled to a desired reef point), close the outhaul and inhaul line clutches. Wrap the mainsheet on a cabin top winch and be sure to leave the mainsheet clutch open . Steer away from the wind to a close haul or reach and let the wind fill the sail.
• If necessary, you may adjust tension on the outhaul to trim and shape the sail.

How To Clear Furling Mainsail Jams

A common cause of a jammed furling mainsail is that the sail was wrapped too loosely around the tube inside the mast last time it was furled. To unjam it, your goal is to tighten the sail's wrap. Try the following steps:

• Close the inhaul line clutch.
• Wrap the inhaul line on a cabin top winch and tuck it into the line jaw.
• Wrap the outhaul line once or twice around on the other cabin top winch hold onto the tail firmly. Do not tuck the line into the line jaw.
• Open the outhaul line clutch.
• Grind the winch holding the inhaul line to bring the sail back in a foot or two. Maintain firm hand-tension on the outhaul line while furling.
• Close the outhaul clutch and tuck the outhaul line back in the winch's line jaw.
• Remove the inhaul line from the winch and open the inhaul clutch. 
• Try again to unfurl the sail. As before, maintain hand-tension on the inhaul line as you pull on the outhaul. Grind the outhaul winch with caution - do not use excessive force.
• If the sail is still jammed, if conditions permit, send two crew members forward on deck. Repeat the above steps again, with one sailor tugging downward on the foot of the sail, and the other sailor tugging outward on the clew as the sail comes out.

Never force a stuck sail by grinding hard on a winch. Excessive force could damage the sail or other components. If you still cannot get the sail unfurled after a few attempts, head back to base and call the office. A technician will meet you at the dock to troubleshoot the problem.

Trimming a Furling Mainsail

• In high winds (>15 knots), flatten the sail to de-power it. Tighten the outhaul to increase horizontal tension. Tighten up the boom vang to increase vertical tension.
• If the foot of the sail is still too baggy after the clew has reached the end of the boom, you can tighten the foot of the sail a little more by tightening the inhaul.   Keep the outhaul clutch closed and tighten the inhaul with caution - if you overtighten, you risk tearing the sail.
• In light winds, (<10 knots) a rounded shape in the sail will add more driving power. Loosen the outhaul and/or boom vang to give the sail a deeper curve or "belly."
• Main halyard tension is set by the MSC fleet technicians. Do not adjust the halyard. If the main halyard seems slack, report it when you fill out your electronic Boat Check-In Form.

Reefing the Mainsail

Reefing a furling mainsail is simple! Follow the steps below to furl the sail in part-way to shorten the sail. Some mainsails have marks on the foot of the sail to indicate suggested reef points, but you can customize your sail area to make it any size you like.

How To Furl Properly and Prevent Future Jams

Your goal is to wrap the mainsail tightly around the tube inside the mast. The trick is to tighten up the boom vang and maintain tension on the outhaul as the sail is being furled in.

• Steer into the wind and fall off to the left a couple of degrees.  - A slight starboard tack is acceptable if your mainsail wraps around the furler in a counter-clockwise direction. (A slight port tack will force the sail against the opening in the mast, making it difficult to furl the sail in.)  - A slight port tack is okay if a mainsail wraps around the furler in a clockwise direction. (A slight starboard tack will force the sail against the opening in the mast, making it difficult to furl the sail in.)
• Wrap the boom vang line around a winch and tighten it up a bit. This will lower the boom and flatten the sail, which helps it to wrap smoothly.
• Carefully unwrap the mainsheet from the winch and loosen the mainsheet.
• Wrap the outhaul once or twice on a cabin top winch. Keep a firm grip on the tail, but do not tuck it in the winch's line jaw. 
• Wrap the inhaul line on the other cabin top winch and tuck it in the line jaw.
• Open the outhaul clutch.
• Grind the winch holding the inhaul line to furl in the mainsail. Maintain some tension on the outhaul while furling to ensure the sail wraps tightly.
• Once the mainsail is fully furled, tighten up the mainsheet and close all clutches.

Want to learn more seamanship and safety tips? Check out the Member Resources section of our website. New articles are added frequently!

Article by Mary Elkins on January 17, 2020 Special thanks to Jim Haussener for his contributions to this article.

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Captain Jeff Cathers is really cool. I had such a great time on the Farallones Day Trip . It was actually my very best day of 2020. Thank you so much for coordinating the trip.

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I would definitely recommend Modern Sailing to anyone who is interested in learning to sail the right way.

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FURLING SYSTEMS

BOOM FURLING SYSTEMS

Boom Furling Units are becoming more and more popular on mid-size and larger cruising yachts, where they offer the opportunity to have a fully automated furling system without compromising the sail area or performance of the mainsail. This is because we can build a sail with full-length battens and the same roach profile as we would on a standard mainsail. These sails perform as well as standard mainsails and are reefed by partially rolling the sail.

STANDARD FEATURES

Full Battens Stiffening Battens Bolt Rope Leech Tabling 2 Reefs Soft Tack and Clew Leech Line Telltales Sail Bag

Sail Numbers Insignia Additional Reefs Shape Stripes

GENOA FURLING SYSTEMS

Doyle's Genoa Furling System is an ideal, value priced solution for coastal cruisers. Roller furling makes handling larger genoas easier, and give sailors a wider wind range with the option of roller-reefing.

Our design team’s understanding of loads, strain and chafe allow Doyle to deliver a durable, cost-efficient sail. There are various options available, depending on requirements and budget.

CODE 0 FURLING SYSTEMS

A furling unit means that using a Code 0 is as simple as hauling on the sheet to deploy the sail, then pulling on the furling line to furl it away when finished.

IN-MAST FURLING SYSTEMS

In-mast furling units are a very popular choice for the cruising and offshore market. They offer a very convenient way to furl the sail and offer a user friendly shorthanded solution to the cruising sailor.

Traditionally the in-mast furling mainsail was viewed as an inefficient sail for windward performance but with the solution of vertical battens performance is greatly improved.

For more information on the Selden in mast furling - see here 

SOPHIE THOM ONBOARD AT DOYLE SAILS SOLENT

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Everyone wants Doyle Sails. Here’s why

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It was business as usual for Doyle Sails and their customers at Hamilton Island Race Week

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Jimmy Green Marine offer 3 different types of headsail furling system according to sail shape, each quite different but designed to achieve broadly the same outcome.

Headsail furling also known as roller reefing is a system designed to reef or dowse the headsail when the breeze freshens too much and for convenient stowage when not at sea. The reefing (furling) is achieved by rolling the headsail up so that it presents reduced or no sail area to the breeze

Select your furling system based on the type of sail to be furled:

Jib Reefing Systems

You can select and purchase your DIY furling system from Jimmy Green online, choosing from the leading brands: Plastimo, Profurl, Harken and Selden. These systems feature aluminium foil sections which you can fit yourself following the manufacturer instructions.

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Selden Furlex 304S

Selden furlex 404s, marlow prodrive 2.0.

Roller Boom Furling: The Ultimate Guide for Sailors

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 12, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer: Roller boom furling

Roller boom furling is a system used on sailboats to easily roll and reef the mainsail. It involves a rotating boom equipped with a built-in roller mechanism, enabling quick and convenient sail adjustment. This method enhances safety, efficiency, and ease of use for sailors.

Roller Boom Furling: A Comprehensive Guide to this Innovative Sailing Technology

Sailing enthusiasts are always on the lookout for innovative advancements that can enhance their sailing experience. One such technology that has revolutionized the way sails are managed is Roller Boom Furling. This comprehensive guide aims to shed light on this fantastic innovation, giving you a clear understanding of its functions and benefits.

So, what exactly is Roller Boom Furling? In simple terms, it is a system that allows sailors to easily furl and unfurl their mainsails with minimal effort. By utilizing a rolling mechanism integrated into the boom, this technology eliminates the need for crew members to manually handle heavy and cumbersome sails .

But how does it work? The Roller Boom Furling system consists of several key components working in perfect harmony. The primary elements include a hardened aluminum boom with an internal rolling mechanism, controlled by a powerful hydraulic or electric motor. Attached to this boom are specialized sail slugs that securely hold the mainsail in place while allowing it to roll up smoothly. Additionally, there is a control panel located within easy reach of the helm station, enabling precise control over the furling process.

Now let’s delve into the advantages of Roller Boom Furling. Firstly, its convenience cannot be overstated. With just the push of a button or flick of a switch, sailors can effortlessly furl or unfurl their mainsails in seconds. No more struggling with tangled lines or wrestling with stubborn sails; Roller Boom Furling takes care of it all.

Furthermore, this technology enhances safety on board by minimizing risks associated with sail handling . In challenging weather conditions or when unexpected situations arise, having full control over your main sail without requiring excessive manpower ensures quick reactions and smoother maneuverability.

Accuracy is another significant advantage brought by Roller Boom Furling systems. Manual furling methods often result in uneven roll-ups, leading to distorted shape and reduced performance . This technology streamlines the process, ensuring consistent and precise sail roll-ups every time. The result? Optimized sail performance, better boat balance, and improved overall efficiency.

However, it’s important to note that Roller Boom Furling is not limited to just convenience and safety benefits. This technology also has a positive impact on sail longevity. By exerting controlled tension throughout the furling process, Roller Boom Furling systems reduce wear and tear on the sails, extending their lifespan significantly. This translates into cost savings in the long run as sailors can enjoy their sails for many additional seasons.

Despite its undeniable advantages, it’s essential to consider a few factors before adopting Roller Boom Furling for your vessel. Compatibility with existing rigging systems, overall weight considerations, and budget constraints should all be taken into account during the decision-making process. Consulting with reputable sailing professionals or manufacturers can help you make an informed choice based on your unique requirements.

In conclusion, Roller Boom Furling is a game-changing technology that has transformed the way mainsails are managed while sailing. Its convenience, safety features, accuracy in sail handling, along with increased sail longevity make it an appealing choice for both cruising enthusiasts and racing crews alike. Embracing this innovative sailing technology promises to not only enhance your sailing experience but also elevate your performance on the water. So why wait? Join the revolution today!

How Does Roller Boom Furling Work? Exploring the Mechanics Behind this Game-Changing System

Roller boom furling has revolutionized the way sailing enthusiasts approach their craft. This innovative system has taken the sailing world by storm, offering enhanced convenience and ease of use. But how exactly does roller boom furling work? Let’s dive into the mechanics behind this game-changing system.

At its core, roller boom furling replaces traditional mainsail handling methods with a more streamlined and efficient mechanism. Gone are the days of wrestling with heavy mainsails or struggling to stow them neatly. Roller boom furling simplifies the entire process, making it a breeze for sailors of all skill levels.

The key component of roller boom furling is a drum-like device that sits horizontally along the boom itself. This drum contains a heavy-duty spring-loaded mechanism that can be activated with a simple pull or push. The mainsail is connected to this drum by means of an attached flexible panel commonly known as an “in-mast sail.”

Here’s where things get interesting: when you activate the roller boom furling system, this mechanism employs its internal gears and springs to smoothly roll up the in-mast sail around itself. This compactly stores the sail within the drum, creating a tidy and space-saving solution.

But what about unfurling? Well, fear not! Roller boom furling wouldn’t be complete without offering effortless deployment as well. By pulling on another control line connected to the drum, you can quickly release the bundled-up sail from its storage position . The inherent flexibility of materials used in modern sails ensures smooth unfurling without any hiccups.

Now let’s talk about some fascinating technical aspects that make roller boom furling so efficient and reliable:

1. Drum Design: The drum in which the sail is stored is carefully crafted using high-strength materials such as aluminum or carbon fiber composite to ensure durability while keeping weight down. This allows for optimal balance and performance on the boat .

2. Spring Mechanism: The internal spring-loaded mechanism within the drum plays a crucial role in achieving smooth and controlled furling. Its tension can be adjusted to accommodate different sail sizes, wind conditions, and sailor preferences, thereby providing customizable functionality.

3. Gearing System: To ensure consistent and reliable performance, roller boom furling incorporates a precisely designed gear system. This system allows for effortless rolling and unrolling of the in-mast sail while minimizing friction and wear on the overall setup.

4. Control Lines: The control lines connected to the drum are intelligently positioned along the boom for easy access and manipulation. By strategically locating these lines, sailors can effortlessly engage or disengage the roller boom furling mechanism without compromising their comfort or safety.

It’s important to note that roller boom furling systems have come a long way in terms of technological advancements over the years. Today, they offer improved reliability, ease of use, and durability compared to earlier iterations.

The benefits of roller boom furling are abundantly clear – it simplifies sail handling, reduces physical strain on sailors, enables quick adjustments based on changing wind conditions, and enhances overall sailing experience by eliminating hassle during maneuvers.

In conclusion, roller boom furling is an ingenious system that has transformed traditional mainsail handling into an efficient and elegant process. By understanding its mechanics and appreciating its various technical aspects such as drum design, spring mechanisms, gearing systems, and control lines – sailors can fully appreciate the convenience this game-changing system brings to their sailing adventures. So go ahead; embrace this innovative technology to elevate your sailing experience to new heights!

Step-by-Step: Understanding the Process of Roller Boom Furling for Efficient Sail Handling

Roller boom furling is an innovative technique widely utilized in sail handling for its efficiency and ease of use. If you’re new to the world of sailing or want to brush up on your knowledge, this step-by-step guide will walk you through the entire process of roller boom furling.

Step 1: Understanding Roller Boom Furling Before we delve into the process itself, it’s essential to grasp the concept behind roller boom furling. Unlike traditional sail handling techniques that require manual effort and coordination, roller boom furling simplifies everything with a single mechanical device. By utilizing a rotating drum built within the boom, this system allows you to effortlessly roll and unfurl your sails regardless of their size.

Step 2: Preparing for Sailing The first step towards efficient sail handling with roller boom furling begins even before you hit the water. Make sure your roller reefing gear is well-maintained and properly installed . Inspect all components for any signs of wear or damage, ensuring that they are in excellent working condition.

Step 3: Unfurling the Sail As you approach your sailing destination, it’s time to prepare for unfurling the sail using roller boom furling. Begin by releasing any halyard tension or backstay pressure on your mainsail. This will aid in facilitating a smooth and controlled deployment of your sails as they roll out from inside the mast.

Step 4: Engaging Roller Boom Furling Once your mainsail is fully released from its stored position inside the mast, engage the roller boom furler by turning its control mechanism or operating button – usually located near the cockpit. This action sets into motion a series of interconnected gears designed to rotate and unwind your mainsail smoothly .

Step 5: Steering & Controlling Unfurled Sail With the sail now unfurled, pay close attention to your boat’s steering to ascertain a balanced and stable sailing stance. Adjust your sail trim by utilizing control lines and sheets, ensuring optimal airflow and maximum efficiency. With the roller boom furling system, controlling the unfurled sail is a breeze, enhancing the overall sailing experience.

Step 6: Furling and Stowing Sail As your sailing adventure draws to an end or if weather conditions change abruptly, it’s time to furl and stow the mainsail using roller boom furling. Gradually release any strain on control lines while simultaneously engaging the furler mechanism in reverse – typically done with a simple push of a button. The rotating drum within the boom will begin winding up the sail efficiently, neatly rolling it back into its stored position until you’re ready to unfurl again.

Step 7: Safety Measures & Maintenance Safety always remains paramount during any sailing endeavor. Regularly inspect all components of your roller boom furling system, including track systems, swivels, bearings, extrusions, and controls. Lubricate moving parts as recommended by manufacturers to ensure smooth operation. Familiarize yourself with emergency procedures specific to your roller boom furling gear in case of unforeseen situations while at sea.

In conclusion, roller boom furling offers an efficient and user-friendly method for handling sails. By following these step-by-step instructions and performing routine maintenance tasks on your gear, you can optimize sail handling performance while enjoying a witty and clever solution guaranteed to make your sailing adventures even more delightful. So get ready to embark on smooth seas with this innovative sail-handling technique !

Roller Boom Furling FAQ: Answering Your Most Pressing Questions about this Advanced Sail Control System

Are you a sailing enthusiast looking to take your sailing game to another level? If so, then roller boom furling is a sail control system that deserves your attention. This advanced technology has revolutionized the way sailors handle their sails, providing improved control and convenience on the water. In this blog post, we will delve into the details of roller boom furling and answer some of the most pressing questions surrounding this innovative system.

Q: What is roller boom furling?

A: Roller boom furling is a cutting-edge sail control system that allows sailors to easily reef or furl their mainsail while out on the water. It replaces the traditional method of manually lowering or folding the mainsail by incorporating a motorized mechanism within the boom itself. This clever innovation enables sailors to adjust their sail area quickly and efficiently, even in challenging weather conditions.

Q: How does roller boom furling work?

A: The roller boom furling system consists of several components working in perfect harmony. It includes an electric motor placed inside the boom that drives a series of gears connected to a flexible foil sail track attached alongside it. By engaging the motor, sailors can effortlessly rotate the boom and wrap or unwrap the mainsail around this foil track as needed. This mechanism eliminates cumbersome manual labor and simplifies sail management on board.

Q: What are the advantages of using roller boom furling?

A: There are numerous notable benefits to adopting this advanced sail control system. Firstly, roller boom furling greatly enhances convenience for skippers and crew members alike. Reefing or stowing your mainsail becomes as easy as pressing a button, saving time and effort while increasing safety at sea.

Secondly, by allowing quick adjustments in response to changing wind conditions, roller boom furling enhances overall performance under various sailing scenarios. Whether you need to reduce sail area during strong gusts or increase it for lighter winds, this technology offers unparalleled flexibility and responsiveness.

Additionally, roller boom furling provides improved sail longevity. By maintaining proper tension and control during the reefing process, it minimizes wear and tear on your mainsail while ensuring a consistently smooth sail shape. This extends the lifespan of your sails and reduces the need for frequent replacements.

Q: Is roller boom furling suitable for all types of boats?

A: While roller boom furling is highly versatile, its suitability depends on the specific design and structure of your boat’s rigging system. Smaller cruising sailboats with single-spreader rigs generally find it easier to implement roller boom furling due to their simpler setups. However, larger yachts with more complex rigging configurations may require additional customizations or adaptations to accommodate this system effectively.

If you are considering installing roller boom furling on your boat, we recommend consulting with a professional sailmaker or yacht rigger who can evaluate your vessel’s specifications and provide expert advice tailored to your unique needs.

In conclusion, roller boom furling is an advanced sail control system that combines convenience, performance, and durability in one brilliant package. By simplifying sail adjustment procedures while maximizing control over your mainsail, this technology allows sailors to elevate their sailing experience like never before. Whether you are a seasoned sailor or a beginner looking to upgrade your boat’s capabilities, roller boom furling is undoubtedly an innovation worth exploring. So why not embark on this exciting journey towards effortless sail management today?

Pros and Cons of Roller Boom Furling: Is it the Right Choice for Your Sailboat?

Title: Pros and Cons of Roller Boom Furling: Is it the Right Choice for Your Sailboat?

Introduction: When it comes to enhancing ease and convenience on a sailboat, roller boom furling systems have gained significant popularity. This innovative technology allows sailors to furl and unfurl their sails effortlessly, making it easier to adapt to changing wind conditions. However, like any other system on a boat, roller boom furling also has its drawbacks and may not be suitable for every sailor or sailboat. In this blog post, we will delve into a detailed analysis of the pros and cons of roller boom furling, helping you make an informed decision about whether it is the right choice for your sailboat.

1. Convenience at your fingertips: The primary advantage of roller boom furling is how effortless it makes handling the sails. With a quick pull or push of a line, you can easily roll or unroll the mainsail according to your needs. This convenience eliminates the need for physically going forward to reef or deploy the sail manually.

2. Enhanced safety: Roller boom furlers contribute significantly towards sailing safety by reducing the risks associated with manual handling of heavy sails in adverse weather conditions . The ability to adjust and reduce sail area swiftly ensures better control over your vessel during sudden gusts or squalls.

3. Improved maneuverability: With roller boom furling systems, altering sail sizes becomes hassle-free while underway. If you encounter varied wind speeds or directions that require adjustments promptly, these systems allow you to quickly change from full sail area to partially furled with minimal effort – thereby enhancing your boat’s maneuverability.

4. Reduced wear and tear: Traditional mainsail flaking and folding methods are notorious for causing excessive creases in the fabric which lead to detrimental wear over time. A roller boom rig helps eliminate creasing issues altogether, ensuring longevity of your sail by reducing friction, chafing, and unnecessary stress on the fabric.

1. Costly investment: It’s important to address the upfront financial investment required for installing a roller boom furling system. These systems tend to be relatively expensive compared to conventional mainsail setups. However, if you frequently sail single-handed or with a small crew, the convenience and safety they offer might outweigh the initial cost.

2. Potential mechanical failures: As with any complex technology, there is always a risk of mechanical failure. Roller boom furlers consist of multiple moving parts – bearings, gears, and motors – that are subject to wear and tear over time. Regular maintenance and occasional repairs might be necessary, so it is essential to have spare parts readily available.

3. Added weight aloft: The installation of roller boom furling systems increases the weight aloft on your sailboat due to additional hardware components. This extra weight can potentially affect your boat’s stability and sailing performance in certain conditions. It is crucial to evaluate how this may impact your specific vessel before proceeding with installation.

4. Limited compatibility: Roller boom furling systems may not be compatible with all sail configurations or mast types. Retrofitting an existing rigging setup could be challenging or require significant modifications which can add costs and complexity to your project.

Conclusion: Roller boom furling undoubtedly brings numerous advantages in terms of convenience, safety, maneuverability, and reduced wear and tear on sails. However, it may not be suitable for every sailor or sailboat due to the associated costs, potential mechanical issues, added weight aloft dynamics, and compatibility concerns.

Ultimately, deciding whether roller boom furling is the right choice for your sailboat requires careful consideration of these pros and cons alongside an evaluation of your sailing style preferences and budget constraints. Consulting with marine professionals or experienced sailors can provide valuable insights tailored specifically to your situation.

Top Tips and Tricks for Maintaining your Roller Boom Furling System in Perfect Working Condition

Maintaining your roller boom furling system is vital to ensuring smooth sailing and maximum performance on the water. A well-maintained system not only prolongs its lifespan but also enhances safety and convenience while at sea. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just getting started, these top tips and tricks will help you keep your roller boom furling system in perfect working condition.

1. Regular inspections: Begin with regular inspections to identify any signs of wear, damage, or malfunctioning components. Carefully examine all the parts of the roller boom furling system, such as the boom, furler, swivel, and control lines. Look for cracks, corrosion, rust, frays in the lines, loose connections or fittings that may affect overall functionality.

2. Lubrication: Proper lubrication plays a crucial role in maintaining a smoothly operating roller boom furling system. Apply a high-quality marine-grade lubricant to all moving parts such as bearings, gears, sheaves, and tracks. Ensure that you follow manufacturer recommendations for lubricant selection and application frequency.

3. Sail Care: Take care of your sails to prevent unnecessary strain on the roller boom furling system. Regularly inspect your sails for tears or frayed edges caused by wind stress or chafe against rigging components. Repair any damages promptly using sail repair tape or consult a professional sailmaker if necessary.

4. UV Protection: UV rays from the sun can cause significant damage to both sails and your roller boom furling system over time. Invest in proper UV protection such as sacrificial covers for both mainsails and jibs when they are furled away on the boom after use. This will help minimize UV degradation and extend their lifespan.

5. Tension adjustments: Maintain optimal tension in your roller reefing line according to prevailing wind conditions and sail size for smooth operation during reefing/unfurling maneuvers. Avoid excessive tension or slack that could lead to jams or increased wear on the furling system components.

6. Halyard Management: Ensure proper halyard management by having a dedicated topping lift to support the boom’s weight while at anchor or when the mainsail is not in use. This helps reduce stress on the roller boom furling system and prevents unwanted slippage of sail controls.

7. Regular Cleaning: Saltwater and environmental debris can accumulate on your roller boom furling system, leading to corrosion and impairing its functionality. Rinse your system with fresh water after each sail to remove salt residue before it has a chance to cause damage. Use a mild soap solution for thorough cleaning when necessary.

8. Service Intervals: Follow manufacturer recommendations for regular servicing and maintenance intervals, which often include professional inspections and parts replacement as needed. A periodic checkup by an expert will help identify hidden issues that can escalate into costly repairs if left unattended.

9. Operator Training: Lastly, ensure all sailors aboard are well-trained in operating and maintaining the roller boom furling system correctly. Provide training sessions, offer guidance, and create written instructions that cover operation procedures, emergency protocols, proper line handling techniques, and troubleshooting common problems.

By adhering to these top tips and tricks for maintaining your roller boom furling system in perfect working condition, you’ll be able to enjoy hassle-free sailing experiences season after season. Remember, investing time and effort in preventative maintenance will save you from unexpected breakdowns while ensuring optimal performance when you need it most!

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What Is A Furler On A Sailboat?

‍ Key Takeaways

• Sailing furlers are common in a variety of different types of sailboats
• These are used to make life easier when sailing or racing to roll the sails in or out
• They are an extremely convenient tool that provides efficiency if used appropriately
• Furler sails can come in many shapes and sizes depending on the boat
• Your sailing goals may go hand in hand with the type of furler you have on board

‍ Furler sailing is a convenient way to make life easier on your sailboat. But what is a furling system on sailboats?

Roller furling systems are unique mechanisms that allow you to effortlessly roll up the sail or unfurl. A roller furling system features a central location for a drum or spool for storing the sail and a furling line to give sailors the ability to operate the sail.

In my experience, furling systems are comparable to reefing systems, but are arguably best for moderate conditions while sailing. Depending on what setup you have will likely make a difference while sailing.

Table of contents

‍ How Does a Roller Furling System Work?

A roller furling setup will vary depending on what type you have on your boat. Most boats today have some type of system already on board, especially racing boats.

Sailors can adjust their sail area or store their sails efficiently by pulling on the furling line. This line can be controlled from the boat's cockpit and allow solo sailing to be more manageable and eliminating the need for crew members to handle bulky sails manually.

There are a variety of positives with furlers that most sailors find useful. Below are the pros for these systems.

Ease of Use

They are convenient and make for a quick setup while adjusting to the wind in various conditions. This allows an easy transfer without having to take the sails down or changing them out completely.

Peace of Mind

This makes it safer while sailing since you will have better response times and control from the cockpit. This helps limit the likelihood of any dangers out on deck or due to weather.

You have the power in your hands to adjust for sailing power. This gives you total control of when to optimize the best sailing conditions.

Longevity in Mind

A furling system allows you to roll up the sail neatly to avoid exposure to harmful UV rays and other issues obtained if you were to leave it out. This is crucial for long term use and for protecting your investment.

There are some negatives to keep in mind for these systems as it may interfere with your sailing goals. Below are the cons to consider.

Strong Conditions

These may not operate the best in windy conditions. A furled sail could decrease upwind performance if the conditions are not the best.

Rope Could Weaken

The rope that is used to control the furler is susceptible to chaffing. This must be checked each time you are going out on the water in addition to other safety guidelines.

Location of Drum

The drum is usually installed on the deck. This means the sail area is slightly reduced and the luff is shortened.

Needs Routine Maintenance

You should always look over and keep records of maintenance on board. The bearings are one example of something you should keep an eye on as the saltwater and sand will cause wear and tear.

Different Types of Roller Furling Systems

There are different types of furling systems that you might have already or might be interested in getting. Some are easy to use while others might be difficult depending on the setup. Below are the three system setups that you will likely need to learn more about.

If you enjoy manual labor to roll the sail in or out, then this means you have a manual one. These are usually cheaper because it is more physically demanding.

You simply need to be able to push a button to get an electric furler to operate. This provides a much smoother sailing experience if you are unable to roll the furlers out by hand.

If you have a larger yacht then you might have a hydraulic furler . These are definitely smoother and offer excellent power.

Which Roller Furling is Best for You?

Now that you know some differences between manual, electric, and hydraulic, you can take a step further and see which system is best for your sailing goals. There are specific names used in the marine industry to categorize these furling systems.

This is the most basic setup for a furling system. This system includes a deck swivel drum, wire luff headsail, and head swivel. This also means you do not need hanks or the use of luff tape.

Internal Halyard

The internal halyard runs alongside the forestay without using the jib halyard. It employs an internal halyard for one groove, while the sail's luff slides up another groove, and prevents the halyard from getting tangled.

Head Swivel

The head swivel is one of the most popular systems and most expensive since it operates the smoothest out of them all. It features a lower drum, equipped with metal cross-sections, and a ball bearing head swivel. It is excellent for racing and for changing headsail easily.

Bottom or Top Down Furler

All systems back in the day were once bottom-up furlers. As engineering improved over the years, more headsails were designed for lighter wind.

The bottom is a standard roller furler where the base of the drum unrolls to release the sail. When rolled back, the sail wraps from the base and is common for jib and genoa sails.

The top down furler is for Code 0 and asymmetric spinnakers. These roll the sail from the top to the base, leaving the base free-floating and improving sail handling.

Cleaning and Maintaining Your Furler

Proper routine maintenance is crucial for keeping your boat in the best shape. This means you cannot afford to skip checking or repairing your furler.

Failure to spend a solid 15 to 30 minutes taking the time to properly clean and maintain your furler will cost you more time and money down the road. Below are a few tips to get started for most furlers.

Reading the Manual

It is imperative that you read and understand the manufacturers manual that came with the furler. This will have the basics and everything else you need to know about safe operation or properly maintaining the furler.

If you do not have one after buying a boat, then you can look for it online or contact the manufacturer to send you one. In addition, you could always look online and read forums that talk about similar issues with their furlers.

Get the Furler Ready

The first thing you should do is to remove the genoa sail and mark the furling line for easy removal of the drum during year-end maintenance or before the season starts. Check the bolts, drum, and remove any debris that could be lodged with a degreaser (your manual might recommend one).

Lube All Required Locations

If any parts move then there needs to be some kind of lubrication. This is especially true if you have metal on metal.

Your manual will likely tell you what type of grease to use and where to apply it. Once that is completed you can assemble the drum and clean everything you touched.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Mainsail Furling Systems – Which one is right for you?

With the variety of options of mainsail furling systems available, including slab, in-boom, and in-mast systems, it can be challenging to determine which one best suits your needs. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the pros and cons of each system, enabling you to make an informed decision that aligns with your sailing requirements.

The majority of yachts, specifically over 75%, utilize the slab-reefing technique as their preferred method for reefing the mainsail. However, as the size of the boat increases, there is a noticeable trend towards adopting systems that allow the sail to be furled within the spar itself. In-mast furling systems, in particular, are more prevalent in larger yachts with a length overall (LOA) of 50 feet and above. For craft measuring 65 feet and beyond, in-boom furling becomes the more commonly employed method.

In essence, as yacht size grows, there is a shift towards the use of in-mast or in-boom furling systems instead of the traditional slab-reefing method. This transition is influenced by factors such as ease of use, convenience, and the desire for improved sail control. Larger yachts often opt for in-mast furling due to its ability to reef the sail at any point of sail, while in-boom furling offers advantages in terms of sail shape and incremental reefing positions.

Slab (AKA ‘Jiffy’ Reefing) System

The slab-reefing method has stood the test of time and remains the most prevalent choice, with over 75% of yachts utilizing this system. Over the years, jiffy reefing lines have replaced the traditional reefing points stitched into the sail, offering a more convenient and efficient solution. There are variations of the jiffy system, including single lines and continuous lines, each with its advantages.

When it’s time to reef the mainsail, the crew releases the halyard tension to allow the sail to be lowered. Reefing lines, which are pre-attached to the sail, are then pulled through reefing cringles (sturdy metal rings) along the luff of the sail. These lines are used to gather and secure the excess sail material in a folded position. By pulling the reefing lines, the sail is gradually reduced in size, creating a smaller and more manageable sail area.

Once the desired amount of sail area is reefed, the reefing lines are secured, typically by tying them off to designated reefing points or reefing hooks on the boom. This ensures that the reefed portion of the sail remains securely in place. After the reefing lines are secured, the halyard tension is adjusted to raise the sail back up, taking into account the reduced size of the reefed area.

Advantages of Slab System

• Best Sail Shape: When sailing upwind, the bellied shape of a slab-reefed mainsail optimizes its wing-like performance both at the luff and on the foot. This design ensures enhanced aerodynamics and improved overall sail efficiency.
• Bigger Sail Area When Fully Set: The slab-reefing system allows for considerable roach in the mainsail, adding valuable sail area. However, it’s important to note that this advantage diminishes when the sail is reefed.
• Adjustable Back Stays: Unlike in-mast systems, the slab configuration enables better sail shape through the ability to tension the back stays and bend the top of the mast head back. This adjustability contributes to improved performance and control.
• Simplicity: The slab system boasts minimal complexities, reducing the likelihood of mechanical failures and simplifying maintenance requirements.
• Lowest Cost: In comparison to in-spar furling systems like in-boom and in-mast, the slab system proves to be the most cost-effective solution. The absence of additional mechanisms such as mandrels, motors, and gearing significantly reduces overall expenses.
• Better Stability: When the sail is furled using the slab system, the weight is concentrated on the boom, resulting in improved yacht stability. In contrast, in-mast systems carry the weight aloft, affecting stability in certain conditions.
• Less Windage: The slab system incorporates a smaller mast section, reducing both cost and windage when compared to in-mast systems. Additionally, the boom’s smaller and lighter profile ensures easier control and eliminates the need for a preventer on all points of sail, as required with in-boom systems.

Disadvantages of Slab System:

• Must Come Head to Wind: To set and reef the sail using the slab system, the yacht needs to be rounded up into the wind. This maneuver can be challenging, particularly in open ocean conditions with 40 knots or more of wind and waves reaching heights of 5 meters or more. Rounding up the yacht in these extreme conditions requires skill and experience.
• Crew Required on Deck: When the mainsail needs to be fully dropped, it will require crew members to go on deck to lash down the main halyard, preventing the sail from snaking up again. This additional crew involvement adds complexity and potential risks, especially in adverse weather conditions.
• More Sail Maintenance: Slab-reefed sails require more maintenance compared to in-boom or in-mast systems. The reefing point cringles, which take all the load when the sail is reefed, need to be regularly inspected and maintained to ensure they do not break down. This additional maintenance requirement adds to the overall workload of sail care.
• More Crew Needed: Setting a reef using the slab system typically requires a minimum of two crew members. This means that, depending on the size of the yacht and the sailing conditions, additional crew members may be required to put a reef in the mainsail. This can limit the sailing options for those who prefer to sail single-handed or with a smaller crew.
• High Sail Stack: On larger yachts (45ft and above), the mainsail stack on the mast can become quite high when using the slab system. To fully secure the mainsail to the gooseneck, crew members will need to go on deck and climb two or three steps up the mast. However, it’s worth noting that the Harken T-Track Switch system can significantly reduce the height of the stack, offering a potential solution to this challenge.
• Less Reef Points: Slab-reefed sails are generally limited to two or three reef points. In comparison, in-boom or in-mast systems offer a greater range of incremental reefing options. Having more reef points allows for more flexibility in adjusting the sail area to match various wind conditions, enhancing sailing performance and safety.
• More Lines in the Cockpit: When the sail is reefed using the slab system, there are more ropes present in the cockpit, requiring proper stowage to prevent tangling and ensure a clear working area. Managing the additional lines can be challenging, especially in fast-paced or demanding sailing situations.
• Needs Lazy Jack Bag: A stack-pack bag, also known as a lazy jack bag, is required on the boom to contain the mainsail when it is furled using the slab system. While this bag facilitates sail stowage, it adds windage and potentially affects the aesthetics of the yacht. The impact on aesthetics may vary depending on personal preferences and the design of the lazy jack bag.

In-Boom Furling System

In-boom furling is a method used to reef the mainsail on a yacht by rolling the sail inside the boom. When it’s time to reef the mainsail with an in-boom furling system, the process begins by activating the mainsail furling mechanism. This mechanism is typically located inside the boom and is connected to a mandrel, which acts as a spindle for rolling the sail. By operating the mainsail furling control, the mandrel rotates, causing the mainsail to be gradually rolled up inside the boom.

As the sail is rolled up, the excess material is neatly stowed within the boom. In-boom furling systems often feature full-length battens that help maintain the shape and stability of the reefed sail. The mainsail furling process continues until the desired amount of sail area is reefed, adjusting to the prevailing wind conditions.

Once the sail is fully rolled up inside the boom, it is securely held in place. In-boom furling systems usually incorporate a locking mechanism to prevent any unintended unfurling of the sail. This ensures that the reefed sail remains tightly furled and ready for use when needed.

Advantages of In-Boom:

• Good Sail Shape: The in-boom system allows for a better wing-style sail shape compared to the in-mast system, though not as versatile as the slab system. It enables the sail to maintain a more efficient aerodynamic profile, enhancing overall performance. It’s important to note that while some claim the sail shape can be the same as that of a slab system, this is not entirely accurate. The sail and its full-length battens must be rolled around a straight mandrel (the in-boom spindle), and excessive belly built into the sail can cause it to stack forward onto the gooseneck, leading to undesirable consequences.
• More Reef Positions: With the in-boom furling system, there are typically more reef positions available. The furling process finishes at a point well between the battens, allowing for smaller increments of reef compared to the slab system. This finer control over reefing enables sailors to adjust the sail area more precisely to match varying wind conditions, optimizing performance and maintaining a comfortable sailing experience.
• Less Weight Aloft: When the sail is furled, it rests on the boom rather than being positioned aloft, resulting in a better righting moment compared to the in-mast system. The reduced weight aloft contributes to enhanced stability and maneuverability of the yacht, particularly in challenging weather conditions.
• No Reefing Lines in the Cockpit: Unlike the slab system, the in-boom system eliminates the need for reefing lines in the cockpit. This simplifies the setup and reduces clutter, providing a cleaner and more organized cockpit layout. It allows for better movement and minimizes the risk of tripping or entanglement during critical maneuvers.
• Less Windage on the Mast: The mast section required for the in-boom system is generally smaller compared to the in-mast system. This reduction in mast size, similar to the slab system, leads to lower windage. The reduced wind resistance contributes to improved performance and maneuverability, particularly when sailing upwind.
• Bigger Sail Area: With the in-boom system, the mainsail can have a substantial roach, similar to the slab system. The roach refers to the extended area of the sail beyond a straight line connecting the head and clew. A larger sail area allows for increased power and potential speed, benefiting both performance-oriented sailors and those seeking exhilarating sailing experiences.

Disadvantages of In-Boom:

While the in-boom system offers several advantages, it’s important to consider its limitations and potential drawbacks before making a decision. Here are some disadvantages associated with the in-boom mainsail furling system:

• Must Come Head to Wind: Similar to the slab system, the in-boom system requires the yacht to be rounded up into the wind to furl and set the sail. This maneuver can be challenging, particularly in open ocean conditions with strong winds and large waves. Rounding up the yacht in adverse weather or rough sea conditions may pose difficulties and require skilled seamanship.
• Longer Furling Process: When furling the sail using the in-boom system, the sail takes longer to drop compared to the slab system. The mandrel, which the sail is rolled around, requires more time to take up the lowering sail. As a result, the helmsman must hold the yacht into the wind for a longer duration, extending the mainsail furling process. This prolonged time spent maneuvering into the wind can impact overall sailing efficiency and require additional attention from the crew.
• Two-Man Operation: To ensure the sail is not stacking forward excessively during the mainsail furling process, crew members must be stationed on deck to monitor the furl. This means that the in-boom system typically requires a minimum of two crew members or more. The need for additional crew members may limit the flexibility and ease of handling for single-handed sailors or those operating with a smaller crew.
• High Cost: Among the three mainsail furling systems discussed, the in-boom system tends to be the most expensive option. In addition to the furling system itself, the installation often requires additional components, such as a powered vang to assist with lifting the boom. The higher cost of the in-boom system should be taken into account when considering budget constraints or cost-effectiveness.
• Propensity to Stack Forward: If the helmsman allows the boat to fall off the wind while the sail is being furled and wind fills the sail, even at the leech, there is a risk of the sail stacking forward. When this happens, the sail must be re-hoisted and the mainsail furling process restarted. This potential for the sail to stack forward adds complexity to the furling procedure and requires vigilance from the crew to prevent such situations.
• Needs a Preventer: The in-boom system, due to its larger boom size and the inclusion of furling mechanics, requires the use of a preventer on all points of sail. A preventer is a line used to secure the boom and prevent unintended jibes or sudden movements. The presence of a preventer adds complexity to sail handling and requires careful attention to prevent accidents or damage to the rigging.

In-Mast Furling System

When utilizing an in-mast furling system, reefing the mainsail is a straightforward process. The mainsail furling mechanism, typically located inside the mast, is engaged to initiate the mainsail furling operation. As the furling control is activated, the sail is rolled up around a mandrel positioned within the mast.

As the mainsail is furled, it is neatly stored inside the mast, reducing the exposed sail area. The mainsail furling process continues until the desired amount of reefed sail area is achieved, providing better control and stability in stronger winds. In-mast furling systems often allow for infinite reefing points, enabling precise adjustments to match the prevailing conditions.

In-mast furling provides sailors with a reliable and user-friendly solution for reefing the mainsail. Its versatility, ease of operation, and streamlined cockpit contribute to a more enjoyable and efficient sailing experience, particularly for cruisers and those seeking simplicity in sail handling.

Advantages of In-Mast:

The in-mast mainsail furling system is widely favored among larger offshore cruising boats for its convenience and ease of handling. It offers several advantages that make it a popular choice for many sailors. Here are some advantages associated with the in-mast mainsail furling system:

• Doesn’t Need to Come Head to Wind: One of the significant advantages of the in-mast system is that it allows the mainsail to be furled at almost any point of sail. Unlike other systems, which require the yacht to be rounded up into the wind, the in-mast system enables reefing or furling without altering the yacht’s course significantly. Even when running downwind , a simple change of course by around 20 degrees can lift the sail off the shrouds and spreaders, facilitating easy reefing.
• One-Man Operation: Depending on the chosen system, the in-mast furling can be operated by a single crew member. Electric or hydraulic systems, in particular, offer the convenience of effortless furling with minimal physical exertion. This feature is advantageous for short-handed sailing or when there’s a lack of crew members available to assist with sail handling.
• Less Rope in the Cockpit: Compared to the slab system, the in-mast system reduces the amount of rope and lines in the cockpit. If equipped with an electric or hydraulic motor, the sail furling can be controlled from the cockpit, minimizing the need for crew members to go on the deck during sail maneuvers. This contributes to a clutter-free and safer working environment onboard.
• More Reef Points: The in-mast system allows for infinite reef points, offering more flexibility in adjusting the sail area to suit various wind conditions. Sailors have the freedom to reef the sail incrementally, tailoring it to the prevailing winds and maintaining optimal control over the yacht’s performance. This versatility is particularly beneficial for long-distance cruising or when encountering unpredictable weather conditions.
• Medium Cost: Compared to the in-boom system, the in-mast system generally falls into a more moderate cost range. While specific prices may vary depending on the chosen manufacturer and additional features, the overall cost is often more affordable, making it an attractive option for sailors seeking a balance between performance and budget.

Disadvantages of In-Mast:

The in-mast mainsail furling system is widely popular, particularly among larger offshore cruising boats. It offers several advantages, but it’s also important to be aware of its limitations and potential drawbacks. Here are some disadvantages associated with the in-mast mainsail furling system:

• Flatter Sail Shape: One of the drawbacks of the in-mast system is that it doesn’t provide as good a sail shape as the slab or in-boom systems. The need to wrap the sail around the mandrel inside the mast restricts the ability to achieve an optimal wing-style sail shape. This limitation can impact overall performance, especially when sailing upwind.
• Bigger Mast Profile: The in-mast system requires a larger mast section to accommodate the mandrel and the furled sail. The increased size of the mast profile can lead to additional weight aloft, affecting the yacht’s stability and righting moment. It’s important to consider the impact of a larger mast profile on the overall sailing characteristics and performance of the yacht.
• Smaller Sail Area: With the in-mast system, the sail area is generally smaller compared to the slab or in-boom systems. To accommodate the furling mechanism, the sail cannot have battens and instead relies on a hollow shape (the reverse of roach) to minimize leech flapping. This reduction in sail area can limit the yacht’s performance, particularly in light winds or when maximizing sail power is crucial.
• Greater Weight Aloft: Due to the inclusion of the mandrel and the furled sail within the mast, there is increased weight aloft with the in-mast system. This additional weight affects the yacht’s center of gravity and can have a slight impact on the righting moment. It’s important to assess the implications of increased weight aloft on the yacht’s stability and overall sailing performance.
• Possible Sail Jam: One concern with the in-mast system is the potential for the sail to jam within the mast. Although this is a concern for many sailors, it can be mitigated by adopting proper furling procedures. Releasing the outhaul line gradually, followed by tensioning the sail through the in-mast motor, can help prevent jamming. Some manufacturers have also developed automatic outhaul systems to further reduce the chances of sail jam. However, it’s crucial to be aware of this potential issue and take the necessary precautions.
• No Mast Bend: Unlike other systems, the in-mast system requires the mast to remain straight. Bending the masthead back, which is possible with other systems, can cause the sail to jam. The inability to adjust mast bend restricts the ability to fine-tune sail shape and performance, especially when sailing in varying wind conditions.

When considering the various mainsail furling systems available for yachts, it’s important to evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of each option to determine which system best suits your sailing needs. Here’s a summary of the main points discussed for the three common mainsail furling systems: slab, in-boom, and in-mast.

Slab System: The slab system is widely used and offers several advantages. It provides excellent sail shape and a larger sail area when fully set. It is relatively simple, cost-effective, and lightweight compared to other systems. However, it requires the yacht to come head to wind for reefing or setting the sail, which can be challenging in adverse weather conditions. Additionally, it requires more crew members for sail maneuvers and has a higher sail stack on larger yachts.

In-Boom System: The in-boom system keeps the furled sail low down and allows for good sail shape. It offers more reef positions and reduces weight aloft, contributing to a better righting moment. However, it also requires the yacht to come head to wind for furling and setting the sail, which can be time-consuming. The system tends to be more expensive, often requiring a powered vang for boom lifting. There is a propensity for the sail to stack forward, necessitating the use of a preventer on all points of sail.

In-Mast System: The in-mast system is favored for larger offshore cruising boats due to its convenience. It eliminates the need to come head to wind for reefing or furling, allowing for easier sail handling at any point of sail. It can often be operated by a single crew member and has fewer ropes in the cockpit, enhancing safety and reducing clutter. The system offers more reef points, allowing for incremental adjustments to the sail area. However, it compromises on sail shape, has a larger mast profile, and results in a smaller sail area when fully set. Sail jamming is a potential concern, but can be mitigated with proper sail tensioning techniques.

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• TECHNICAL SUPPORT

Furlex jib furling and reefing system – For carefree sailing

Furlex jib furling systems.

Furlex is available for dinghies and yachts up to 80’. You can chose between on deck or through deck installation as well as manual operation with a furling line or electric or hydraulic drive. You have the option of installation on an ordinary 19-strand wire, a Dyform® wire or a rod forestay. If you want to be able to adjust the forestay length, an integrated rigging screw can be provided.

If you want carefree sailing, Seldén’s got you covered.

The S-series is Seldén’s traditional jib furling and reefing system. Operated by pulling a furling line and fitted above deck, the S-series has been seen on boats worldwide for decades. The basic concept behind Furlex remains – a complete and reliable jib furler supported by professional sailmakers and riggers. Over the years the product range has expanded and Seldén are now offering Furlex S for dinghies, keelboats and yachts up to approximately 65’.

FURLING SYSTEMS FOR DINGHIES The smallest furlers in the Furlex family are used as standard equipment on numerous dinghies, small catamarans and keelboats. They feature stainless ball bearings for long life, composite components for low weight and clever designs to reduce friction. Properties that have made Furlex the world’s best-selling furling systems since early 80’s

FOR Ø4-Ø5 MM FORESTAYS, 18-26’ BOATS The Furlex 50S is the perfect choice for every sailor who wants a compact, low weight furling system. It shares many features with the larger members of the world-famous Furlex family. The patented load distributor in the halyard swivel and the full length distance tubes for smooth rotation are the same as on all the other Furlex models. Furlex 50S is supplied as a complete kit including forestay wire, halyard lead, stanchion block, pre-feeder and furling line. Easy to order and easy to install.

FOR Ø4 – Ø14 MM FORESTAYS, 25-65’ BOATS The fourth generation of Furlex is an uncompromising evolution of the world’s best selling jib furling and reefing system. Proven design blended with innovation is our way to maintain the iconic heritage of Furlex. The 104S-404S systems ranges from ø4 to ø14 mm forestays and are delivered as complete kits by professional riggers and sailmakers.

• Furlex 20S 30S 40S
• Furlex 104S-404S
• Calculator – Righting moment at 30° heel (RM)
• Calculator – Cut lengths of luff section and wire
• 20S, 30S & 40S – Technical details
• 50S – Assembly and Operation
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FURLEX ELECTRIC

Sailing by pushing a button.

Once you have experienced using a Furlex you will not want anything else up front. Jib furling is all about convenient sail handling from the safety of your cockpit and with the Furlex Electric a new dimension is added – ease of use.

WHAT’S NEW?

The MkII version of Furlex Electric, launched 2018, is a compact and weather proof aid to handle your foresail and smart enough to under­stand how much power to use. It works fast or slow at your command, it consumes a minimum of your power supply and it’s built to last. Lean back and let Furlex Electric do the hard work.

ON THE TECHNICAL SIDE

Furlex Electric is designed around a highly efficient 42V electric motor. A DC/DC converter (PSU, Power Supply Unit) converts the boat’s 12V or 24V to 42V which allows for thin cables to the motor unit, easy installation and a compact unit design. Power is transmitted to a self-locking worm gear to rotate the luff extrusion at a max torque of 60Nm (204E), 90Nm (304E) and 135Nm (404E). These high torque levels mean that you can always rely on being able to furl your foresail – even when the wind and sea are doing their worst.

The motor uses only 10-25 amps at normal load and it takes 25-30 seconds to furl a genoa. When sailing with a partly reefed genoa, the worm drive provides a mech-anical lock. In order to prevent accidental overloading, the system comes with a built-in current limiter adapted to the type of Furlex, 204E, 304E and 404E. If you attempt to furl the sail without first releasing the sheet, the torque is immediately limited to a safe level. This safety feature is automatically re-set a few seconds after the control switch is released.

In the event of power failure, the sail is simple to furl manually. An emergency line-driver system is included as standard and can be used for both on-deck and through-deck installations. An emergency handle with ½” socket is available as an option.

Press one button and you will run the sail, in or out, at low speed. To double the speed, press the other button simultaneously.

Furlex Electric is available for either on-deck or through-deck installations. The main advantage of a through-deck installation is better sailing performance as a result of a longer luff length. More space on the foredeck is an added bonus!

UPGRADE YOUR MANUAL FURLEX

Push-button performance is an easy upgrade for anyone who already has a manual Furlex 200S, 300S or 400S series (production year 1997-2015) or the current models 204S, 304S or 404S on their yacht. The furling line, drum and the line guard assembly are simply replaced with a Furlex electric motor unit. No sail conversion is required as the luff length of your existing sail is unaffected.

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MAXIMISE YOUR BOAT’S POTENTIAL AND LET THE FURLEX SYSTEM WORK WITHOUT BEING SEEN.

Tacking the sail at deck level allows for a longer luff length of your foresail. You will improve sailing performance without compromising the convenience of the jib furling system. The bow will also be less cluttered as the line drum is hidden below the deck.

The free turn of the tack swivel is the same as in all other Furlex models; a necessity to reduce the furling resistance and to flatten out a reefed genoa.

The MkII version of Furlex TD (Through Deck) has all the benefits developed for the standard 4th generation Furlex, such as, smooth furling with roller bearings combined with stainless ball bearings for the drum and an optional rigging screw to adjust the forestay length. In addition, the outside diameter of the line drum is smaller than on earlier TD models which simplifies installation in narrow anchor boxes and allows for installation further forward.

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FURLEX HYDRAULIC

SAILING FROM THE COCKPIT AT THE PRESS OF A BUTTON

A hydraulic powered Furlex system enables you to reef, furl and trim the sail area to suit the wind conditions at the touch of a button. The patented, built-in motor has a direct drive to the worm gear, to keep moving parts to a minimum and increase power, efficiency and reliability. The worm gear, which is self-braking, locks the sail in the required position. In an emergency, the foresail can also be manually furled and unfurled with an ordinary winch handle.

The Furlex Hydraulic is designed to provide a harmonious visual interplay of stainless steel and aluminium. The hydraulic motor is located inside the worm gear and the positioning of the motor contributes to the compact design of the Furlex Hydraulic.

A Furlex Hydraulic is typically combined with a hydraulic driven furing mast. The complete system includes a hydraulic pump, valve units and drive units, all connected by hydraulic hosing.

The system is operated from the cockpit by control switches connected to the system through a control box.

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Yachting World

• Digital Edition

Furlers: All the latest kit on the market

• Toby Hodges
• May 18, 2021

Toby Hodges takes a look at the significant developments that have been a feature of the furler market in the last few years, and picks out some of the best options on the market

Easy reefing on the Kraken 66 White Dragon during our heavy airs test, with an in-boom system by Southern Spars. Photo: Kraken Yachts

A tug on the working sheet and the furling line, the offwind sail spins open and your boat surges forward, the great joy of a furlers doing that for which they are designed.

You’re content in the knowledge that it’s simply a case of releasing the sheet and pulling on the furling line again to have all that sail area tamed and back under wraps in seconds – no wrestling with poles, no dancing around a foredeck grappling with socks or buckets necessary.

Continuous line furlers, together with the torsional ropes or cables around which the sails furl, have given us a lot to be grateful for.

The ability to manage large code or asymmetric sails with minimal crew is becoming ever easier thanks to advances in structured luff sails and the technology and reliability of furlers.

However, choosing the right furler for your bowsprit or stemhead can be quite complex. Are you running only one type of sail off each of your furlers and is that a Code 0 for reaching or a free flying A-sail for sailing deeper angles – or both?

The answer will likely determine whether it’ll be more practical to furl the sail from the bottom-up or, as has become more popular, from the top-down.

Here, we take a look at Karver’s latest KF V3 model as well as the current range of options in this sector.

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Is in-boom furling the next big thing in sail handling technology?

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Most manufacturers of furlers now offer top-down units, either as a dedicated drum or as an adapter for their existing units. “We have seen a significant decline in Code 0s, with 80% of enquiries in the last 12 months for asymmetric sails and more and more for top-down furlers,” says Phil Anniss, director of Upffront.

His company supplies from all manufacturers, so he’s a useful source for discussing the latest trends in furlers. Upffront’s core market is 30-50ft cruising yachts and Anniss says these sailors increasingly want to be able to use top-down systems on their existing gennaker/A-sails rather than have to get a new sail.

“We sell the idea of a top-down adapter to allow people to use the same drums for furling both Code 0s and asymmetric sails,” he says.

Karver KF V3

French hardware company Karver has been helping to take the sweat out of furling flying sails since the launch of its first KF V1 furler in 2004.

Its latest V3 version targets a particularly broad tranche of the sailing market. A patented carbon and Kevlar continuous line wheel helps to reduce weight – the V3 is much lighter than its aluminium wheel predecessor – while the Kevlar teeth also create less friction and wearing.

Commercial director Tanguy de Larminat explains that the gains the company has made in weight has allowed for a reinforced structure while retaining the high performance.

The variety of units now offered should appeal to both racing and cruising sailors. There are eight sizes from 1.5-12 tonnes SWL (safe working load), all available in four different versions: Standard, Racing, Classic and Structural.

Interestingly, Karver has moved away from dedicated top-down units, preferring top-down adapters for all its new range.

A large drum version is available on the 1.5 and 3.0 models, which provides power to start the furl if doing so only by hand, but may not suit top-down systems that rely on speed.

De Larminat says Karver is also reprising its work with sustainable materials. “We are applying what we started to do 10 years ago. “Most of our carbon products can be produced by replacing the carbon with bio-sourced material such as bamboo or linen fibres, with no loss of performance.”

The price of KF furlers remains the same as previous models.

KF V3 3.0 Standard Price: €1,491. www.karver-systems.com

Bamar RLG EVO 10

The EVO is the latest-generation Bamar furler, which has an independent tack swivel mounted on the aluminium drum. This is a simple, well-engineered and light model for its 3.0 tonne SWL. The jaw width makes it difficult to use the bottom-up drum for a standard top-down cable, however Bamar has its own Rollgen stay that plugs into the EVO drum. Price: €1,634. www.bamar.it

SeldÉn CX25

Seldén offers a GX range to suit gennakers or asymmetric spinnakers, or a CX range designed for Code 0. The latter is perhaps more versatile as they can use top-down adapters.

The CX drum size is small for top-down furling but it has a large jaw width to allow for adequately sized rope diameter.

In a similar vein to Harken, the Seldén drums are designed to work with its own branded cables. Seldén has a very competitive price point for its CX range, which also includes torsional rope.

Price: €1,427. www.seldenmast.com

Facnor FX+ 2500

This offers impressive performance for the price in one of the lightest units available.

The new generation FX+ range was updated last year with new guides to secure the furling line around the drum. The well-rounded design has a decent jaw width and the option for a top-down adapter.

The Facnor FX+ is arguably the closest competitor to the Karver KF V3.

Price: €1,785. www.facnor.com

Harken Reflex 2

The Reflex furling systems have been developed for optimum use with load-sharing code sail technologies. They come with top-down adapters (pictured) but only for use with Harken cables – so are sold as complete kits together with Harken’s torsional rope.

Good value as long as you don’t need to interface it with an existing torsional cable. Price: €1,642. www.harken.com

Profurl NEX 2.5

This has one of the largest drum diameters to promote fast furling with minimal effort. Ratchet versions are available for greater control.

The NEX system is designed to be compatible with Profurl’s proprietary Spinex, a system with plastic balls around the torsional rope.

The NEX 2.5 is advised for cruising yachts up to 42ft.

Price: €1,561. www.profurl.com

Ronstan Series 160

Ronstan is one of the few remaining companies offering dedicated top-down drums. This is particularly appealing for owners of smaller yachts/sportsboats who typically only use A-sails.

However, at this 160 drum size, it may make more economic sense to choose a furler with a top-down adapter for use with multiple sails.

Price: €2,261. www.ronstan.com

Ubi Maior FR125

Ubi Maior has a full range of dedicated top-down units or drums with adapters manufactured from single blocks of aluminium. These have high working loads and small drums, but jaw widths may limit practicality for top-down Code 0 furling.

Price: €2,002. www.ubimaioritalia.com

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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Furlers: Thumbs Up, Thumbs Down

What the best riggers in the business have to say about the systems they install, maintain, and repair..

By almost any measure, roller furling units have evolved to become nearly ubiquitous in our pastime. And, as we wrote in our Feb. 1, 2004 market scan of headsail furling units, that evolution has rendered many of these products superbly functional. To wit, an overwhelming majority of respondents to the reader survey that accompanied that article gave these products high ratings for reliability and functionality. Our experience concurs with that. (We installed furling units on two of our test boats in the past.) It seems that these systems are generally earning their keep, but that’s an outlook which needs to be further qualified. 

To do that, we felt it would be instructive to field the comments of those who install and repair roller furling units on a regular basis, so we tracked down professional riggers around the country. Some of these individuals were involved in furler developments early on, and all of them have hands-on experience dissecting frozen set screws, replacing damaged extrusions and worn bearings, or simply puzzling though the machinations of differing installations. They often view headsail furling units in a harsher light than the rest of us, so we asked about the most common issues encountered, as well as their experience with particular products. Here’s what they said, followed by responses from the manufacturers:

Common Issues “Most of the problems with roller furlers stem from improper installation,” said Svendsen’s Boat Works’ Doug Fredebaugh from the San Francisco Bay area, a 20-year rigging veteran. “Anything from having the foil the wrong height to having the halyard restrainer in the wrong position, to bad rig tune—an often overlooked culprit—can lead to poor roller furling performance. If you have lots of time and are very careful, roller furling units are easy to install. However, there are always going to be places where you can misinterpret instructions and end up doing something irreparable like cutting the foil to the wrong length.”

“Owner installation is a double-edged sword, because there are owners with different levels of mechanical abilities,” explained Annapolis Rigging’s Collin Linehan, who has been a rigger for nine years and a sailmaker for six prior to that. “It’s something owners can do, but often a customer comes into it with these grand ideas and then they run into problems and it takes me two and a half weeks to clear my schedule to get somebody out there. If you’re sailing in the northeast, that’s a significant part of your season gone right there.

“It’s when you stop paying attention—say furling the sail without looking up—that you risk running into problems. Old halyard wraps, improperly located halyard restrainers, and user error are the most typical problems we see. The most important thing that all of these furler producers could put in their operating instructions would be a line that says: ‘If you think there’s a problem, stop and look around.’ You should never need a winch to turn a furler, these units are meant to be operated by hand.”

“Of course I have a vested interest in saying that people shouldn’t put units together themselves,” admitted Keys Rigging’s Gary Shotwell, a 30-year rigging veteran, “but from a purely benevolent standpoint, I really think it is a fairly complicated process. We’ve had a few dismastings due to halyard wraps. The other thing to be on the lookout for is what some boatyards will do to a roller furling unit in the process of taking the mast down. Often the people doing the job don’t understand the mechanics of the unit. And reassembly by yard personnel almost always leaves the potential for some kind of trouble.”

“The cause of most problems is poor or improper installation and not the furler,” agreed Sound Rigging and Yacht Service’s Todd Rickard in Seattle, basing his remarks on 12 years as a rigger. “There aren’t that many problems with today’s furlers. The fact that most boats in the ’70s and ’80s had hank-on sails led to something of a roller furler binge in the ’90s. Roller furlers have been standard on new boats for the last three-to-five years. Buying a furler requires the same philosophy as buying winches, the benefits of over-sizing make life easier. I just saw a 44-footer with a Schaefer 2100 on it. The unit fit, but the owner is going to be disappointed in its performance in high winds.”

“One of the biggest problems we see,” opined Fritz Richardson of San Diego’s Pacific Offshore Rigging, “is owners not setting the sail up with the right length tack pennant. Typically, furlers don’t break now as they did in the earlier stages.”

“I’d say most of the problems start at the top end of the swivel unit,” offered Alan Veenstra of the Chicago Sailing Club, basing that on his 40 years of experience. “The length of the pennant is often incorrect, as is the angle. If the furler is too low, the halyard will wrap. If there’s a deficiency, it’s that the top swivel is paid less attention than the drum. It’s hard to know from deck level if the jib is the right height. If the sail is too long, it’ll jump off the furler and jam, if it’s too short, you risk a halyard wrap.”

“It’s not a very intricate thing to put together,” countered Eddie Brown, who is involved in installing about 60 furling units a year while commissions new Beneteaus for St. Barts Yachts in Charleston, SC. “If you are replacing one with the same brand, there’s no problem, you can put it right together, but if you’ve got to go and figure out measurements and mess with toggles and link plates and whatever you’ve got to hook up there, then it can be a little tricky doing pin-to-pin measurements.”

“The biggest challenge for an owner installation is changing over to a mechanical wire end fitting,” said John Fretwell of Rig Works in San Diego. That, and going aloft. Mechanical fittings are more expensive than a swaged fitting, and though you might end up coming out ahead eventually in terms of re-rigging, few people are going to own a boat long enough to worry about re-rigging it two or three times. Problems will vary by manufacturer, but in a general sense, corrosion between stainless and aluminum causes most of the problems we see, especially if the unit lives in an anchor well, which is now becoming popular.”

CDI “We used to sell CDI—it’s best for trailerable boats. You can’t take it anywhere you need to reef as it’s sailed on a Flexible Furler that is too flexible.” —Doug Fredebaugh

“CDI came stock on MacGregors, and in my mind they don’t build a system suitable for much more than that, even though I know they make units for larger boats.” —Todd Rickard

“When properly applied, the CDI is a fine system. I’d have to say that my problem with the unit is not the design, but improper application. Invariably, people try to save some money and end up utilizing the wrong system for the wrong application. The CDI doesn’t have the load handling properties that other furlers have and as soon as you start running over the load sizes and the sail sizes, that’s when you really start to generate problems.” —Collin Linehan

“We’ve done a lot of CDIs. They’ve changed a lot over the years. We installed a lot of the Flexible Furler models. It’s a good, cheap unit. While it’s not a Harken, Schaefer, or Profurl, we will recommend a CDI for trailerable boats because they are indestructible. The design is very unsophisticated, changing sails is a bit of a problem, and something that you’re not going to be doing out at sea. We don’t recommend them for anyone who’s doing any blue water sailing. The fact that we hardly ever deal with warranty issues is a good reflection on the product in general.” —Gary Shotwell

“Most of the ones we’ve worked with were quite old and were troublesome, but it was mostly an age issue, as most were 10 years or older.” —John Fretwell

CDI’s Joe Dahmen responds:

“If you look back to the 1995 Practical Sailor roller furler survey, 100 percent [of the respondents] who owned a CDI unit said they’d buy another one again.

“It’s common to have a 10 or 15-degree gap between sections of aluminum extrusions, as getting the tolerances right when heating aluminum to extrude it is very difficult. Put together three splined sections and you typically have thirty degrees of twist. There’s no more wind-up with our unit than with splined joints, and there’s no Loctite to worry about coming loose. We make a unit simple enough for owners to install, and by using an internal halyard we’re able to eliminate problems with forestay wrap.

“A lot of these guys aren’t overly enthusiastic about our unit—we’re breaking their rice bowls by offering an extremely simple, durable, essentially zero-maintenance unit an owner can install.”

Facnor “I’ve only worked on old Facnors, not the new ones, but seeing these units when they are 10 to 12 years old gives you strong opinions about what will be a good furler 10 years from now. The earlier models had joint problems with the foil that tended to open up over time with wear.” —Doug Fredebaugh

We’re starting to get a little more involved with Facnor. Some of their units are quite nice. They’re doing some single-line-drive systems that have been developed from the Code Zeroes used in a lot of the racing programs. I don’t have a heck of a lot of experience using it, but as far as the system and installation, and the actual looks and the integrity, it’s a pretty nice system. However, I have had issues with Facnor getting parts that have put people out for some time.” —Collin Linehan

“We’ve done several Facnor installations, although mostly mainsail furler systems. These are also a fairly inexpensive unit compared to the others.” —Gary Shotwell

“Facnor is ahead of other competitors in terms of continuous line systems. I don’t know if you’re familiar with sails like Code Zeroes—extremely flat asymmetrical spinnakers—a lot of bigger boats are using continuous line furlers to deal with these sails. What’s different about this approach is that the luff is not attached, this unit attaches to the tack of the Code Zero and to the head; there’s no foil. These are systems that generally live with the sail, when it’s time to break out that sail, it gets tacked onto the deck, usually with a snap shackle arrangement, and then the sail gets hoisted in a furled mode; these are primarily used by racers for lighter air.” —John Fretwell

“Facnor has borrowed a lot from Profurl, but in my mind they haven’t improved on anything.” —Todd Rickard

“To me Facnor is a cheaper system as far as how it’s put together. It does have a good system for putting the tubes together, using a longer extrusion that goes inside of the tubes, so it’s pretty tough in there. One thing I see is that The Moorings uses them and that tells me that they are used hard and they hold up. I have had one or two cars that have failed, but it was a faulty ring that they had put in the car and they sent me two new ones, and it was an isolated incident.” —Eddie Brown

Facnor’s John Kileen Responds:

“No other furling manufacturer has created more new products or grown more in the last 10 years than Facnor. Since the company was started in 1981, we have continually created new products and improved on the existing ones. Significan’t changes in our standard jib furling line include sealed waterproof bearings, simplified installation process, and stronger connectors.

“Facnor’s involvement in the world of single-handed ocean racing, including the Vendee Globe and Around Alone, has led to the most innovative improvements in furling systems. Most of these race boats are equipped with Facnor furlers consisting of a continuous line furling drum and Kevlar or PBO headstay instead of wire and foils in order to save weight aloft. A similar arrangement is now available for racing and cruising boats of all kinds using the continuous line drum and our standard aluminum foils.

“Facnor will continue to develop products for ocean racing yachts and use that experience to improve furling products for all levels of cruising and racing sailors. We’re OEM on Beneteau, Jeanneau, and Wauquiez, to name but a few. Now with distribution in the U.S. through Charleston Spars, Facnor is in position to service customers in North America.”

FaMet “We used to have a saying, ‘FaMet rhymes with damn it,’ I’m not even sure if these units are still in production, but if they are, I’m sure they’ve improved.” —Doug Fredebaugh

“We really don’t deal with FaMet at all. I have absolutely no experience with those.” —Collin Linehan

“It’s interesting that you should mention FaMet because I’ve got a customer that has a damaged unit so I’ll be looking for new parts for it. I believe Regency Marine is fulfilling that now, but it’s been a while since I’ve had to go looking for them. Thirty years ago, the FaMet was a popular unit. They are very robust, but very heavy, kind of yesterday’s technology. Check back with me and I’ll tell you how it went.” —Gary Shotwell

PS couldn’t get a response from FaMet in time for this article.

Furlex “Furlex is a design nightmare to put new wires into. The Norseman-style end fittings make it hard to work on, and the system is one that is not engineered with the idea of servicing effectively. Taking apart a Norseman fitting that has been under great strain for 10 years makes me think the manufacturers are trying to torture me. We had a Furlex that took six hours to put a new headstay in, while with a Harken unit, the process usually takes less than an hour.” —Doug Fredebaugh

“Furlex is a great system for the dollar, being that it comes with a headstay. These are tried and true, and really good for around the bay, or for your coastal guys. You could go on extended cruises with it, but I wouldn’t go around the world with one. I say that just because they don’t have the miles logged that say a Profurl system does; they also have a lot of moving parts inside there.” —Collin Linehan

“We’ve sold a lot of Furlex furlers, it’s our third most popular unit here. I don’t think I like it as much as a Harken or a Profurl. One of the reasons is the way the extrusions are put together, there’s a little bit of play in them. The last Furlex we worked on the extrusion machining wasn’t perfect.” —Gary Shotwell

“The Furlex price includes everything: the replacement headstay to the line for the drum, which means less running around for the installer and less complexity. I wasn’t crazy about Furlex until four or five years ago when they went from a plastic cage to a stainless steel body. More people are offshore with Furlex right now than any other. We’ve installed Furlex furlers on John and Amanda Neal’s boat Mahina Tiare III. I’d say Furlex is my favorite.” —Todd Rickard

“I’d rate Furlex unbelievable in their commitment to customer service. I’ve seen the company replace operator-inflicted damage at no charge. My favorite furlers are Profurl and Furlex. Most of my clients will be heading offshore, so even minimum maintenance requirements like flushing out the lower unit with fresh water is sometimes not possible.” —Fritz Richardson (Pacific Offshore Rigging)

Furlex’s Scott Alexander responds:

“We’ve designed our furler from a mastbuilder’s perspective and a complete understanding of rig loads. The guy from Svendsen’s is referring to a Norseman when in fact it’s a Sta-Lok, and he was likely working on a system 10-to-15 years old. We have great instructions on how best to dislodge the Sta-Loks after many years of hard sailing; they have fantastic holding power.

“When Furlex was redesigned in 1997, we addressed the issue of making it much simpler to release the Sta-Lok terminal. Furlex has always used Sta-Loks due to their excellent serviceability and long life in comparison to a swage fitting. All Furlex systems include a new forestay with a Sta-Lok on the lower end. Furlex has been supplied to quality offshore builders for many years: Hylas, Tayana, Farr, Nautor Swan, Halberg Rassy, and Sweden Yachts, to name a few.

“We intentionally have a small gap between the extrusions in order to avoid chafe of the foils with each other when sailing downwind with a slack forestay. We appreciate that Keys Rigging noticed this detail. Mahina Tiare III logs over 15,000 miles per year and enjoys sailing in the Roaring Forties. Need we say more?”

Harken “Harken is what I consider the best. The disassembly is easy and you can still get parts for 10-year-old units. Harken has a big blue sheet spelling out the directions. You have to be sure to inspect everything, every foil. One out of a hundred has a burr on it, and if you miss that halfway through the installation, you are hosed as the joints end up being stuck halfway through. Harken and Schaefer are our most popular brands, these are units that we’ll sell more of by a factor of 10. As far as fitting extrusions together, Harken uses stainless steel screws, while Schaefer uses anodized aluminum rivets. The Harken wedge system is extremely durable. Infrequently there will be problems with not having enough Loctite on, but it’s pretty rare.

“The market on furlers is saturated, and you can expect furlers made today to last 20 years. I’ve seen Harken furlers that were installed in the ’80s that are still working. The only maintenance required is that you spray fresh water on the unit. If you want to get fancy, you can spray McLube on the sail. As far as warranty issues, in the last five years we’ve had one claim on a Harken unit and it was resolved instantly…the quality makes it something of a non-issue since it doesn’t come up very much.” —Doug Fredebaugh

“Harken has a great system. You’ll find that problems with the higher end systems come from installation error or user error. They have refined their unit to the point where if you know what you’re doing when you handle them, you’re all set. I think these companies are all pretty much on the same plane when it comes to customer service, shipping, directions, and warranties. We sell nearly equal amounts of Harken, Profurl, and Furlex.” —Collin Linehan

“Harken is my favorite, and is what I have on my boat. Harken is a very complicated unit [for owners] to install. I think Torlon bearings are an excellent idea, the ones on my own boat are 16 years old now and I’ve done zero maintenance and they are doing just fine. I also like the way Harken fits its extrusions together. It’s very positive and they use the red Loctite ®. There’s a little friction pad that holds it in place while the Loctite cures. Harken has been particularly attentive in terms of customer service, but I can’t say that they are that much better than other furling manufacturers in that regard.” —Gary Shotwell

“Harken units from 10 years ago are still being used successfully. Today you can change the lower unit of a Harken Mark II open drum for about $600, which is a lot cheaper than putting a whole new furler on.” —Todd Rickard

“I install a lot of Harkens, it’s a good, standard furling unit, but not so user-friendly to install. You have to have a swage fitting and it’s hard to modify the unit to fit. You have to take the unit apart to modify it, it’s basically built to be put up and stay up. I’ve found Harken particularly awkward and inelegant to assemble. The extrusions are a very tight fit.” —Alan Veenstra

“One problem that I run into with Harken, is the way that their bearings [foil connectors] go in, the way you have to work down—if you mess up you’d have to take the whole thing back apart.” —Eddie Brown

“Harken is the best choice for the racer as it’s the lightest. But it’s also more awkward than others for repeated disassemblies. For some of the racing boats who want to be able to break down and transport the boat not necessarily on their own keels, and those furlers are a little less easy for multiple disassemblies. It’s the Loctite®, the connectors, and the fact that the connectors need to be swaged on a rod or a wire headstay ,whereas with Schaefer units the connectors are split so that you don’t have to push every foil over every connector for reassembly.” —John Fretwell

Harken’s Dan Rondeau responds:

“Our furling systems take a little more time to assemble, but for good reason. The connectors are closed tubes so they are stronger for their size compared to a “C” shape connector. As a result, foils can be smaller for the same strength as well. Weight aloft is less, so there’s less heeling—something any boat owner can appreciate.

“A simple tool called a ‘pusher wire’ will speed assembly when sliding foils over the connectors. This wire is made of 3/16” 1×19 wire and is about 7 ½’ in length, just a little longer than the foil.

“We use red Loctite® because it gives a durable bond, yet can be taken apart with heat if the foil needs repairs. Coating the connectors with Loctite® spreads the load onto the joint, and takes the point-loading off the fasteners. The screws are really just a final lock for the foil joint. A couple of tips: when coating connectors with red Loctite®, smear most of it on the side opposite the plastic wedges. This is the best gluing surface. Also, instead of putting glue on the foil screws, put a drop in the connector hole.

“The manual has an easy-to-use chart to figure foil cut length so it saves you from doing the math. All you have to do is plug in your pin-to-pin measurement. Note: make sure you measure from the center of the marine eye to the pin that attaches the furler to the chainplate or link plates. Do not include the masthead toggle in your measurement.”

Hood “The latest generation addressed the problems with the earlier ones. With those, the push button furlers were a nightmare to work on as the joints between the extrusions could get loose and cut the sails. We take a lot of Hood furlers in the 10 to 12-year-old range off of boats, and I’m told the new ones are a lot better.” —Doug Fredebaugh

“Hood has a good system, although some of the older ones are increasingly hard to find replacement parts for.” —Collin Linehan

“We’ve done a lot of work on Hoods, mostly on the older units, which had some serious corrosion problems. I’m grateful to Hood because they made the first good, strong roller furling unit that changed my mind about roller furling. They kind of sat on their laurels though, because I didn’t see a lot of improvement after that. The unit uses alternating Delrin and stainless steel bearings. They have a new system out, but my experience with it has been very limited.” —Gary Shotwell

“I don’t have experience with new Hoods, but to be honest we have done fairly frustrating jobs with the old ones, and I guess one of the reasons is because they were old, over 10 years, and we had one supplier for the parts.” —John Fretwell

Hood’s Mike Haber responds:

“In the 1980s, we didn’t have the anti-corrosive selection that we have today. Older parts aren’t in our new units as our newer designs have better functionality and longevity. You could keep a Model T running, but it wouldn’t make great transportation. Still, we try to make an upgraded parts kit and are pretty good at making things work. Many boats owners have replaced sails, rigging, chain plates, and so on. Furlers are one of the least maintained units on a boat, and the location on the pointy end ensures that they’ll be spending a lot of time getting sprayed with salt water. We’re uniquely dedicated to our customers and offer a program that gives 50 percent off the list price for owners of existing Hood furlers looking to upgrade.”

Profurl “Parts for earlier Profurl units are no longer available, and the bearings in these are somewhat archaic. A stiff, 10-year-old Profurl furler won’t perform as well as a 10-year-old unit from another company. The lifetime guarantees won’t do any good if the unit doesn’t spin.” —Doug Fredebaugh

“I consider Profurl to be my personal favorite. There have been a lot of miles logged on these units; they are very, very simple, straightforward, extremely durable, and low maintenance.” —Collin Linehan

“Profurl has sealed bearings, and it’s something that we’ve had good luck with, except that when they start to go bad they won’t let us repair them. The unit has to go back to their authorized factory to change the bearings.” —Gary Shotwell

“Profurl and Facnor are using sealed bearings. The benefits of sealed bearings aren’t as great as they say they are.” —Todd Rickard

“I hate to say it, but I’m satisfied with Profurl. Because these units are made in France, I installed one on my boat with some consternation. But no swaging needs to be done and the extrusions are large enough for a Sta-Lok or an eye fitting to pass through. I installed a Profurl on a 47-footer last year, and the process only took three or four hours. Profurl is better in my mind because you can take it down and work on it, any piece can come out and be replaced relatively easily. That said, I’m not fond of Profurl’s aftermarket replacement parts. I just bought a replacement set screw for $10. It’s a special screw, sure, but it’s not a $10 screw. If this company was concerned about customer loyalty, it should have just sent the screw for free. Also, a 7-foot extrusion costs almost $200.” —Alan Veenstra

“The best unit that I’ve seen out is Profurl. The installation is easy, and I’ve never had a failure on one. I’ve trained several guys who’ve helped me doing rigging for years and if they come to me and tell me there’s a part missing out of the box I tell them they’re lying. The quality control, as far as what’s in that box when I get it, well, everything is there—always. I’ve found one or two cases where they’ve sent me the bottom pin and they forgot to put the threads on it, but the pin was there. As far as stuff that’s in there, they are very customer friendly.” —Eddie Brown

Profurl’s Vernon Hultzer responds:

“It’s a true testament to the system that the older units being referred to are over 25 years old, and Profurl stopped making parts for them over 10 years ago. A 10-year-old Profurl unit that has been looked after will work better than an exposed plastic or stainless steel bearing that has been sitting in the sun and salt for 10 years. We extend a 10-year warranty on our Classic Range of furlers, not a lifetime.

“Profurl has established bearing service repair centers all over the U.S. If a dealer shows that he is competent to handle repairs, we are more than willing to allow them to open the units up. We have to stand by our product, and can’t allow everyone to open the bearing system; otherwise we lose control of the quality control. Our spare parts are expensive. Rolls Royce is also an expensive car. One gets what you pay for in this world.”

Schaefer “Schaefer is what I would consider to be a modern cruiser’s dream. The bearings are brilliant, needing only to be hosed down with fresh water once every six months. The riveted-together extrusions are well engineered, and replacing the forestay in the shop is easy. We put Schaefer on a lot of cruising boats. Harken and Schaefer are our most popular brands.” —Douglas Fredebaugh

“Schaefer makes a fine line of roller furlers. The Schaefer Snapfurl is an excellent system for boats under 26 feet. It’s simple and can be installed by the purchaser.” —Collin Linehan

“You can’t go wrong if you choose one of the top four: Harken, Furlex, Schaefer, and Profurl. Seventy-five percent of our installations are Furlex and Schaefer, the balance is Harken and Profurl.” —Todd Rickard

“Schaefer is gear that I like a lot. We sell a lot of them. They’re fairly simple, and I believe are better engineered than Profurl. They’re a little more robust, and fairly simple gear.” —Gary Shotwell

Schaefer Marine’s Fred Cook responds:

“Riggers are on the front line with customers and have the most ‘real world’ experience. We respect their comments, and their feedback is very important to us. Some call us conservative, but we take our responsibility to our customers, dealers, and riggers seriously.”

Conclusions The functionality of modern roller furling units depends first and foremost on proper installation. Predictably, the riggers we spoke to favor professional installations, partially because they’ve witnessed the downside of owner installations, and, of course, because they too need to put food on the table. And many of them cautioned against the temptation to purchase undersized units as a means of saving money. As with anchors and winches, over-sizing has its advantages, but our riggers made it clear that this is only necessary if your brand of sailing warrants it.

These professionals also counseled that prospective buyers consider the aftermarket prices for things like set screws, foils, and bearings as most units eventually require replacement parts or some servicing, and higher end units will likely have higher aftermarket part prices. They also said that though maintenance on headsail furling units is now quite minimal (the sealed bearings of Profurl are virtually maintenance free, while other units require little more than a periodic rinse with fresh water), it’s a good idea to check the foil connections once a season. Set screws can work loose, and you should also check for signs of corrosion between stainless steel fasteners and aluminum foil sections.

Even with the proper installation, maintenance, and inspections, things can go wrong. Spinnaker halyards or other headsail halyards kept on the bow could inadvertently get wrapped in the upper swivel, and an overzealous or inattentive crew might damage the unit by not noticing this. Headsail halyard tension, several riggers told us, should also be eased when the boat is at rest for long periods to retain sail shape.

They also emphasized that there are other important considerations for those in the market for a new furling system. You need to consider your use of the product. Will it be for racing, occasional offshore cruising, or just daysailing? And how do you feel about swaged end fittings vs. mechanical terminals? What about foil shapes? Do you want rounded extrusions? And will you be able to keep up with the minimum maintenance requirements, or are you hoping that “maintenance-free” means just that? All of these are important considerations.

As an aside, there were several models that appeared in our Feb. 1 market scan—Alado Nautica, Bamar/Plastimo, and Reef-Rite—among them, that we haven’t covered here. These units were hardly mentioned by the riggers we interviewed, but that shouldn’t be misinterpreted as a slight on those products. More than one rigger admitted that he hadn’t any experience with units made by those companies.

So who comes out on top? Our unofficial winner in this highly subjective survey is the one product none of these riggers faulted; one that was invariably used as a standard for excellence: “I’m not sure I want this in print,” said an unnamed rigger who was referred to us by another manufacturer’s distributor, “but I highly recommend Schaefer. They’re reliable. I like the bearings, they require very little maintenance, they are robust, the installation is easy, and they are quite conducive to disassembly.” Harken’s furlers garnered high praise, though they seemed to be more complicated to install and disassemble, and Furlex and Profurl both won emphatic support among many of our riggers. All told, the bar has been pushed to an extremely high level by these four product lines, and collectively they represent solid investments.

Contacts • CDI, 607/749-4599, www.sailcdi.com • Facnor, 704/597-1502, www.facnor.com • FaMet, 785/842-0585, www.fametreefurl.com • Furlex, 843/760-6278, www.seldenmast.com • Harken, 262/291-3320, www.harken.com • Hood Yacht Systems, 603/826-5791, www.pompanette.com/hood • Profurl (Wichard, Inc.), 800/852-7084, www.profurl.com • Schaefer Marine, Inc., 508/995-9511, www.schaefermarine.com • Alado Nautica USA, 972/943-8262, www.aladous.com • Bamar/Plastimo, +39 0543798670, www.bamar.it • ReefRite, +64 9 407 8794, www.reefrite.co.nz

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Batten and Receptacle

Schaefer batten end receptacle and sail luff tape are supported by Schaefer’s sailtrack, absorbing batten compression loads and reducing sail chafe.

Sail Articulation

Sail Track shown articulating on the system axis.

Track Head Fitting

Upper sheave assembly with two aluminum ball bearing sheaves further reduce friction.

Entire system articulates on the same axis, for easy hoisting, reefing and stowing at any apparent wind angle.

Open-view boom ends allow visual inspection of all internal parts for confidence while reefing and furling.

Furling Drum

Placing the furler drum at the aft end of the boom eliminates the need to drill large holes through the mast to mount the drum forward of the mast where it can foul lines.

• Oversized Torlon bearings are set in angular contact races to absorb high compression loads and minimize friction
• Torlon ball bearings reduce friction to make hoisting, reefing or furling effortless.
• Aft drum perfectly aligns track with gooseneck, for easy furling and reefing on all points of sail.
• Heavy duty fixed rigid vang for correct alignment and support.
• Use our wide array of turning blocks, foot blocks, and mast-mounted bearing blocks for proper leads to the cockpit.
• Furls any mainsail, even modern, high-performance, full batten mains.

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