rudder post sailboat

4 Rudder Types for Sailboats

A rudder is an ancient piece of technology that people still use to steer sailboats today. Modern sailboats use many different types of rudders.

If you turn the rudder to the left, the stern will turn right, and vice versa. You can use either a steering wheel or a tiller to move the rudder. Not every type of boat has the same kind of rudder, nor should every boat - different boats need significantly different rudders.

There are several different types of rudders in common use. Sailboats use full keel rudders, spade rudders, outboard rudders, and skeg-mounted rudders, plus variations on each type. What type of rudder is best depends on the shape of the hull and the boat's size.

Table of contents

Different rudder types and their advantages

Full keel rudders.

Many sailboats have a full keel rather than a fin keel, which requires a particular type of rudder. A full keel is the standard type of keel, or flat blade at the bottom of a sailboat. A full keel is designed for stability, not speed - it can keep you safe in rough water.

A generation or two ago, nearly all cruising boats had full keels. However, this is no longer true. Many customers today prefer fin keels, which are designed with speed rather than stability in mind.

A fin keel is smaller than a full keel and shaped differently. Fin keels are more popular today because many sailors today never go far from the coast. If you are near the coast, fin keels are relatively safe.

With a full keel sailboat , the rudder appears to be part of the keel. It is attached with a hinge and looks like a continuation of the keel. There may be a hole between the keel and the rudder, where the propeller is, although not all boats use this design.

What is the advantage of a full keel rudder?

A full keel rudder is strong and protects the boat from harm. A full keel rudder helps a boat survive a storm. Any debris floating by will not snag on a full keel rudder as it will snag on some other rudders.

Do full keel rudders have any disadvantages?

It is harder to move a full rudder than to move other types of rudders. Water flowing by the boat puts a great deal of pressure on a full keel rudder and makes the rudder hard to move. It takes a lot of force to push the rudder against the water moving past the boat.

Spade rudders

Spade rudders are for fin keel boats rather than full keel boats. A spade rudder sticks straight down into the water. A spade rudder can rotate left or right with a rudder post that extends into the hull.

Advantages and disadvantages of spade rudders

The most obvious advantage of the spade rudder is that it can be part of a fin keel boat. A full keel rudder requires a full keel - you could not attach a rudder of this type to another type of boat.

It is also not nearly as difficult to turn a spade rudder as it is to turn a full keel rudder. The water does not put all of its force on one side of the rudder, so it does not take as much force to turn it.

One disadvantage is that debris floating in the water can get caught on a spade rudder. Spade rudders are more delicate than full keel rudders in many ways. Debris can damage a spade rudder.

A spade rudder can also be damaged by rough water. Large waves may exert enough pressure on a spade rudder that it will break. A large wave can bend the rudder post, and after that happens, your rudder becomes useless.

Outboard rudders

An outboard rudder is not part of the boat's hull and is mounted outside of it, at the back of the boat. Usually, an outboard rudder is not hooked up to a steering wheel.

Instead, it is hooked up to a tiller, which is a steering lever. A tiller can take a bit of getting used to if you are used to a steering wheel, but a tiller is not hard to use. Many sailors prefer a tiller, especially for smaller boats.

Advantages and disadvantages of outboard rudders

If an outboard rudder is damaged, it is not likely to damage the rest of the boat. Since there is no rudder post running through the hull, damage to the rudder usually won't mean damage to anything else as well.

You may also be able to remove and fix a damaged outboard rudder while you are still out at sea. There is no way to remove a rudder that is part of the hull and beneath the boat, but a rudder attached to the boat with hinges may be possible to fix at sea.

Outboard rudders are not necessarily weaker than and can be stronger than other types of rudders. The hinges that hold an outboard rudder in place may be stronger than a rudder post.

In some ways, an outboard rudder is worse than either a spade rudder or a full keel rudder. Unlike a full keel rudder, things like rope floating in the water can get caught on an outboard rudder. Objects floating by can also hit and damage an outboard rudder more easily than they can damage a more durable full keel rudder.

Compared to a spade rudder, the outboard rudder is harder to turn. The water pressure will always be on one side of the rudder; this is not always the case with spade rudders.

Skeg mounted rudders

Skeg rudders are both durable and possible to use on fin keel rather than full keel boats. Skeg mounted rudders are more durable than the spade rudders you usually find on fin keel boats.

Skeg mounted rudders have the same disadvantage as full keel rudders and outboard rudders, which is that they require more energy to turn. The water will put all of its pressure on one side of the rudder. Only spade rudders avoid this problem.

Is a tiller better than a wheel?

Either for inexperienced or veteran sailors, a tiller can work better. With a tiller, you will get immediate feedback. If you turn a wheel, the boat won't turn right away, which can confuse or annoy a new sailor.

The tiller should be long enough, as it is harder to turn if it is shorter. In strong winds, you need a long lever to turn your boat without it taking a great deal of strength.

It is easier to turn a wheel than to turn a tiller, as there is more leverage with a steering wheel. Therefore, wheels are better for larger boats; as a tiller is harder to turn with a bigger boat.

A tiller's advantage is that it is more responsive than a wheel, even though it is harder to turn. The boat will start to change direction almost immediately if you use a tiller. In racing, it is normal to use a tiller because you can change direction more quickly.

How does a rudder work?

A rudder works through water pressure. If you turn the rudder, the pressure becomes higher on one side of the rudder than the other. The rudder then moves toward the side with the lower pressure, which causes the boat to change direction.

When a sailboat turns, it pivots around a point near the middle of the boat. Both the stern and the bow move simultaneously, with the middle of the boat not moving. You have to take this into account while sailing, or else you might swing the end of your ship into another boat.

What is the purpose of the keel?

The keel keeps the boat stable. Without a keel sticking down from the boat into the water, it would be easy for the wind to push the boat around. Without a keel, the wind could easily push you sideways and make the ship much harder to control.

A keel is also weighted. The keel is full of ballast, which is weight that keeps the boat from flipping over. Without ballast, a boat would be top-heavy and unsafe.

Keels are usually made out of the same material as the rest of the boat - if the boat is aluminum, the keel will be as well. The ballast is usually lead.

While full keels are better in rough weather in most ways, a fin keel does a better job of preventing the wind from blowing your boat around. Wind can create leeway, which is sideways movement of the boat. Leeway is most likely if you are sailing into the wind.

Do rudders often fail at sea?

Yes, a rudder failure is one of the more common hazards you might encounter at sea. Not every sailboat has a good, durable rudder. The rudders on cheap boats, especially cheap fiberglass boats, can fail.

The rudder pole should neither be too weak nor too strong. If the rudder pole is too weak, it will bend easily. If it is too strong, it may damage the hull rather than bend, which is even more dangerous.

A rudder has a metal framework inside of it. If the framework breaks, the rudder will become unusable. With a cheaper boat, the metal framework may not be welded together properly.

Make sure you buy a sailboat that has a reputation for safety. Don't buy the cheapest boat you can find - look into whether or not the boat is safe to take out to sea.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Updating a classic fiberglass cruising yacht.

Rudder Post Observations and Anatomy

My rudder is currently out of my boat and I thought this would be an opportune time to make sure I understand how it works and seek opportunities for improvement and maintenance.  

My boat has a spade rudder , which means that the rudder post itself supports all of the loads placed on the rudder when turning.  An alternative would be a skeg-hung rudder where the leading edge of the rudder would be a fixed point like the trailing end of a full keel or a small fixed edge to bear the initial resistance of the rudder moving through the water.  A spade runner is more balanced than a skeg when turning and works well provided the rudder post is strong enough to bear the loads. 

With the rudder removed, the hull interface is visible: 

From below, a metal sleeve within the fiberglass in the post hole can be seen.  I found some internet references to a “neck bearing” that other boats might have where this sleeve is located.  I guess I wouldn’t characterize my configuration as a neck “bearing” as the metal post simply slides up into the sleeve without any rolling balls or pins anywhere.  This joint is not watertight and permits seawater to make its way up into the rudder hole.  

You stare into the rudder sleeve and the rudder sleeve stares into you.   

Within the boat, with the quadrant removed, onc can see the space between the sleeve ‘stuffing box’ gasket on the lower side, and the “rudder carrier” or upper bearing above.  The space between these two interfaces is where my radial drive (quadrant) bolts.  

The upper bearing/rudder carrier secures the top of the rudder post in the cockpit floor fiberglass and has a lid that can be unscrewed from above to permit the insertion of the emergency tiller.  It appears my rudder carrier is missing a nut.

The stuffing box on the lower side prevents water from entering the boat but does not hold the post tightly. A bushing also rests between the bottom of the radial drive and the stuffing box.  

Peering with a phone camera down through the stuffing box into the rudder sleeve, one observes some rotational wear.  

The exposed metal rudder post measures 24” from the top of the foam rudder to the end of the stock.  

The lowest seven inches of the post show substantial wear – the metal is shiny and bright where the portion higher up bears a glaze of old grease.  This shiny section makes sense as the lower part of the stock is like the fulcrum of the lever created by the rudder.  It seems one ought to try to keep this section as lubricated as possible, since this is the portion that suffers the most friction and wear.  

I have learned that the way to lubricate the rudder post shaft is with a grease zerk fitting.  I found one on my rudder post inside my cockpit locker, but it is so rusty and so inaccessible that I doubt the zerk has ever been put to beneficial use.  Other Ericson owners have written about the process of installing a grease zerk fitting and that seems like a good idea.  With my boat out of the water, now seems like an opportune time.  

Studying all of these connections and trying to puzzle out how the rudder keeps turning and the boat stays dry yielded for me the following ‘conceptual’ section diagram of the rudder post for an Ericson 32-200 and probably other models of Ericson Yachts.  

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• Fiberglass Boat Repair

Rudder Repair

By: Tom Pawlak

By  Tom Pawlak — GBI Technical Advisor

A typical spade rudder for sailboats is made up of two fiberglass skins that define the shape of the rudder, a metal mandrel that is an extension of the rudder post, and foam core which bridges the space between the skins and mandrel. In order for a rudder like this to work properly, its fiberglass skins must be attached to the core and the core must be attached to the metal mandrel. Side loads on a rudder exert compression loads on the core which transfer into the mandrel. If the components become detached, the rudder can deflect excessively and eventually develop cracks in the fiberglass skins.

Causes of rudder failure

Through normal use, rudders go through a lot of stress. With every turn, the skin on each side is subject to a cycle of compression and tension. Years of sailing can accumulate a lot of these fatigue cycles. Shock loads, groundings, competitive sailing and a rudder that may have been under-engineered all contribute to rudder failure.

Additional damage, at least in northern climates, can be caused by freezing water. A slight leak at the top of a fiberglass rudder will allow moisture to enter. A drop or two of water per day adds up over time. Once inside, the water will freeze during the winter. When it freezes, it expands and can crush the foam core and, in some cases, cause the rudder to delaminate and even split apart. It may take several seasons for a problem like this to reveal itself. Our tech staff gets many calls about this kind of damage from boat owners in northern climates.

A common place to find damage is at the top of the rudder where the skin meets the rudder post. The core and fiberglass skin surrounding the post are repeatedly compressed against the post. The result can be a gap along side of the post, allowing excessive movement and permitting water to enter along the post.

Reinforcing/repairing the top of the rudder

A small gap around the rudder post or tube is not considered serious and can be sealed with a flexible sealant to keep water out. Left unsealed, the gap may allow water into the rudder, leading to extensive damage later.

As a rudder ages and additional fatigue cycles accumulate, stress cracks may develop in the fiberglass laminate around the rudder post at the top of the rudder. These cracks usually radiate from the post into the surrounding fiberglass, often beginning at the glue joint where the two fiberglass halves of the rudder meet. If the cracks are limited to this glue joint, they can be cleaned out with a broken hack saw blade or rotary grinder and glued back together with epoxy thickened with a high density filler.

If the cracks at the top of the rudder radiate into fiberglass beyond the glue joint, the cracks need to be properly repaired. This is accomplished by grinding out all of the damaged fiberglass and replacing the removed material with fiberglass cloth and WEST SYSTEM® Epoxy. At the same time, reinforce the joint between the rudder post and the fiberglass rudder top by cutting away a band of fiberglass and core around the post and filling the gap with epoxy thickened with high density filler.

• Grind away the damaged fiberglass skin around the cracks with a rotary tool like a die grinder or Dremmel TM tool. Avoid grinding into the rudder post, this will weaken it. Cut the opening to a smooth circular or oval shape, and grind a 12:1 bevel around the edge of the fiberglass.
• Grind back the fiberglass skin at least 1/2″ from the rudder post on all sides. Grind or cut the core around the post at a 45 degree angle back to the post.
• Dry the area with heat lamps or heat guns if necessary. Sand the metal surfaces to be bonded with 80 grit to roughen the surface.
• Apply a coat of unthickened epoxy to the metal, fiberglass laminate and core.
• Fill the excavated area around the tube with epoxy thickened with 404 High-Density filler.
• Apply layers of wet out fiberglass fabric across the repair to restore the skin. Use enough layers to equal the original skin thickness. Step the edge of each layer of fabric back to match the 12:1 bevel. Sand and fair the surface when cured. Apply several epoxy barrier coats after fairing is completed, before applying bottom paint.

It’s not a bad idea to reinforce the top of the rudder in this way as a precaution, when the rudder is out of the boat and you are making other rudder repairs.

Repairing delamination

Accumulated stresses can lead to cracks in other locations on the rudder. A common skin failure on an aging rudder occurs in the area where the metal mandrel inside the rudder ends. These stress cracks show up on the sides of the rudder about two thirds of the length down from the top. The damage may be isolated to the cracks in the fiberglass skin or problems may go deeper.

Delamination can occur anywhere in the rudder but will most likely show up in this same area where the metal mandrel inside the rudder ends. The stress cracks and delamination can go unnoticed for a season or two and the problem may not be identified until water begins weeping from the rudder after the boat is pulled from the water.

When delamination is discovered, drill a few small holes to drain any water that may have accumulated inside the void. Tap on the outside of the rudder to identify the extent of damage. Debonded areas will have a distinct dull sound compared to undamaged sections. Use a pencil or permanent marker to identify the boundaries of damage.

There are two approaches one can take to restore strength to the delaminated area. The first and easiest option is the drill and fill approach. The second option involves removing the fiberglass skin in the debonded area, repairing the core, gluing the skin back in place and structurally repairing the original cracks in the skin if any and the cuts made in the fiberglass skin to gain access to the core.

Drilling and filling

The drill and fill method is the easiest of the two repairs. It involves fewer steps but takes more time to complete the repair because of the longer time required to dry out the wet core before the repair can be attempted. The repair may not be as reliable as the second method because there is no opportunity to inspect or prepare the delaminated areas inside the rudder for optimum bonding. Even so, this method has worked well when the damage is not too extensive.

• Drill a series of 1/8″ to 3/16″ holes on a one inch grid pattern over the debonded area. Drill deep enough to get to the center of the core. You may hit the metal mandrel.
• Dry the core. Wet cores can take weeks or months to dry even if a multitude of holes have been drilled. Force drying with heaters or heat lamps is recommended for speeding the process. A small fan blowing over the surface will help. Locate any heat source carefully to minimize the risks of fire. I have been surprised to find how hot a surface can get after leaving a heat lamp unattended for several hours.
• Verify that the core is dry by drilling a few more holes when you think the rudder has dried out. Squeeze the core drillings to see if they are dry.
• Inject a slow curing epoxy such as 105 Resin and 206 Hardener or 105 Resin with 209 Extra Slow Hardener. Use syringes to force the epoxy into the delaminated areas. Lay the rudder on its side with the drilled side facing up, so gravity works in your favor.
• Refill the holes as necessary with unthickened epoxy until the holes are filled flush with the surface. A light layer of fiberglass cloth can be applied over the area to strengthen the area if desired.

Removing the skin and repairing the core

Most repair facilities use the second option and cut off the fiberglass skin in the debonded area. They remove and repair the voided core before gluing the rudder skin back in place. This method allows the rudder to be repaired over the period of days rather than weeks. It is also a more reliable repair because you get to see what you are bonding to. Surfaces can be dried quickly and thoroughly, and damaged core can be removed and replaced with new core.

• Cut through the fiberglass skin using the marked boundary of the delaminated area as a guide. Use a rotary tool or a circular saw with the blade set to cut just below the surface of the fiberglass.
• Carefully pry off the fiberglass skin to expose the delaminated core. Removing the skin may be difficult if the delamination is within the core rather than between the skin and core. Hack saw blades or dry wall saws may be needed to cut the core that has delaminated from the mandrel but is still attached to the surrounding areas. Remove the skin and attached core together.
• Remove all loose and crumbled core.
• Dry the area with heat lamps or heat guns. Caution! Don’t let the surface get too hot.
• Bond any intact pieces of core back in place (like a three dimensional puzzle), using thickened epoxy. Gaps of 1/4″ can be bridged using 105 Resin with 206 Hardener thickened with 407 Low-Density Filler. Wider gaps are possible if you are working in cool temperatures or if you use 209 Extra Slow Hardener. Caution! epoxy generates heat (exotherms) when it cures and may melt the foam core if too much epoxy is used at one time to fill wide gaps in the core.If the core is too broken up, replace larger voids with a foam core of similar density, glued in place with epoxy and low-density filler.
• Prepare the bonding surfaces of the core and the inner surface of the removed skin (or the core attached to the skin). Dry fit the fiberglass skin over the repaired core. Remove any small pieces of core or epoxy that may keep the skin from fitting flush. Vacuum off any dust and loose material.\plain \par
• Wet out the bonding surfaces of the fiberglass skin or attached core with unthickened epoxy. Apply epoxy thickened with 406 Colloidal Silica to the core with a notched trowel.
• Press the fiberglass skin into the thickened epoxy and hold it in position (flush with the surrounding skin), with weights, duct tape or bungee cord.
• Prepare the cuts in the fiberglass skin for repair by grinding a 12:1 bevel in both directions from the cut. An 1/8″ thick fiberglass skin will require a 1/2″ wide bevel on either side of the cut.
• Apply several layers of fiberglass tape over the joint. Use enough layers to equal the thickness of the skin. (Several layers of 731 or 732, 9 oz. fiberglass tape equals about 1/8″
• Prepare the surface of the cured epoxy by washing with water and an abrasive pad, and sanding thoroughly (or wet sanding). Fair the fiberglass buildup with 407 Low-Density filled epoxy. Apply three barrier coats of epoxy over faired areas, allow to cure, then wet sand, before applying bottom paint.

For general information on fiberglass boat repairs, download our  Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance (free download) manual (free).

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• Understanding boat rudders: Navigating the key component for smooth sailing

Navigating a boat requires a complex interplay of various components, and one of the most crucial elements is the rudder. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of boat rudders, exploring their functionality, importance, and role in steering a ship to smooth sailing.

What are boat rudders?

Boat rudders are an essential component of the vessel's steering system. They are hydrofoil-like structures located at the stern (rear) of the boat, underwater. The primary function of the rudder is to control the direction of the boat by redirecting the flow of water as the boat moves forward.

The role of boat rudders in steering

Boat rudders play a vital role in steering a ship. When the helmsman turns the wheel or tiller, the rudder changes its angle, redirecting the water flow on one side of the boat, creating more resistance on that side, and causing the boat to turn in the opposite direction.

Types of boat rudders 

Spade rudders: Spade rudders are simple and streamlined rudders attached directly to the hull. They are commonly found in modern sailboats and provide excellent maneuverability and responsiveness.

Skeg rudders: Skeg rudders are partially submerged and supported by a skeg, a vertical extension of the hull. These rudders offer increased protection and are often used in larger motorboats and trawlers.

Balanced rudders: Balanced rudders have a portion of the rudder forward of the pivot point, which balances the force applied by the helmsman. This design reduces the effort required to steer the boat.

Barn door rudders: Barn door rudders are large, flat, and wide rudders resembling barn doors. They are commonly seen in traditional fishing vessels and provide excellent control in rough seas.

Spade hung rudders: Spade hung rudders are free-floating rudders attached to the boat only at the top, allowing them to swing freely. They are commonly used in high-performance sailing yachts.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Components and mechanics of boat rudders

A typical boat rudder consists of several key components:

Rudder blade: The rudder blade is the flat, vertical surface responsible for redirecting the water flow. It is the most critical part of the rudder and comes in various shapes and sizes.

Rudder stock: The rudder stock is a sturdy vertical shaft that connects the rudder blade to the steering mechanism. It provides the necessary support and stability for the rudder.

Tiller or wheel: The tiller or wheel is the steering control operated by the helmsman. When turned, it causes the rudder to change its angle and steer the boat.

Rudder bearings: Rudder bearings are the mechanisms that allow the rudder to pivot smoothly on the rudder stock. Properly lubricated and maintained bearings ensure easy steering.

Steering linkage: The steering linkage consists of rods or cables connecting the tiller or wheel to the rudder stock. It transmits the helmsman's steering inputs to the rudder.

Steering a ship: The interaction between rudder and helm

The process of steering a ship involves a coordinated effort between the rudder and the helm. When the helmsman turns the wheel or tiller, the rudder angle changes, causing a difference in water flow on either side of the boat. This creates a force imbalance, turning the boat in the desired direction.

The effectiveness of the steering system depends on various factors, such as the rudder's size, shape, and angle, the vessel's speed, and the water conditions. Proper coordination between the helmsman and the rudder is essential for precise maneuvering.

Maintaining and repairing boat rudders

Regular maintenance is crucial to ensure the optimal performance and longevity of boat rudders. Here are some maintenance tips:

Inspect for damage: Regularly inspect the rudder blade, stock, and bearings for any signs of wear, damage, or corrosion.

Lubrication: Ensure the rudder bearings are well-lubricated to prevent friction and allow smooth movement.

Antifouling: Apply antifouling paint to the rudder to prevent marine growth, which can negatively impact performance.

Check steering linkage: Inspect and adjust the steering linkage regularly to maintain precise control.

Address issues promptly: If any problems or abnormalities are detected, address them promptly to prevent further damage.

Rudder design innovations

Advancements in technology have led to innovative rudder designs aimed at improving performance and efficiency. Some notable innovations include:

Hydrodynamic profiles: Rudder blades are now designed with advanced hydrodynamic profiles to reduce drag and enhance maneuverability.

Rudder fins: Some rudders are equipped with additional fins or foils to improve stability and minimize yawing motion.

Retractable rudders: Certain sailboats feature retractable rudders, which can be raised when sailing in shallow waters, reducing the risk of grounding.

Steer-by-wire systems: Modern vessels are adopting steer-by-wire systems, replacing traditional mechanical linkages with electronic controls for smoother steering.

The influence of rudder size and shape on turning radius

The size and shape of the rudder directly impact the vessel's turning radius. Larger rudders with greater surface area provide more steering force and can turn the boat more quickly. However, larger rudders also create more drag, which can affect overall speed and fuel efficiency. The optimal rudder size depends on the boat's size, weight, and intended use.

Rudder efficiency and hydrodynamics

The hydrodynamics of the rudder significantly affect its efficiency. Smooth and streamlined rudder designs minimize drag and turbulence, resulting in improved performance and fuel economy. Advanced hydrodynamic analysis and simulation tools help optimize rudder shapes for various vessels and operating conditions.

Common rudder issues and troubleshooting

Like any mechanical component, boat rudders can experience issues over time. Some common problems and troubleshooting tips include:

Stiff steering: If the steering feels stiff or unresponsive, check for obstructions in the rudder bearings or linkage.

Vibrations: Vibrations during steering may indicate misaligned rudder blades or bent rudder stocks.

Leaking bearings: Leaking rudder bearings require immediate attention to prevent water ingress and corrosion.

Excessive play: Excessive play in the rudder could be due to worn steering linkage or loose connections.

Reduced maneuverability: Reduced maneuverability may result from a fouled or damaged rudder blade.

Rudder steering systems

Various steering systems are employed in conjunction with rudders, each offering unique advantages:

Tiller steering: Common in smaller boats, tiller steering directly connects the tiller to the rudder stock, providing direct and responsive control.

Wheel steering: Larger boats often use wheel steering, which utilizes a mechanical or hydraulic system to transfer steering inputs to the rudder.

Hydraulic steering: Hydraulic steering systems offer smooth and effortless steering, ideal for larger vessels.

Electric steering: Electric steering systems, also known as electro-hydraulic steering or electronic power steering (EPS), utilize electric motors to assist in steering the boat. These systems work in conjunction with hydraulic components, making steering more effortless and responsive for the boat operator. 

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FAQs about rudders