cal 31 sailboat review

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• Sailboat Guide

Cal 31 is a 31 ′ 5 ″ / 9.6 m monohull sailboat designed by C. William Lapworth and built by Bangor Punta Corp. and Jensen Marine/Cal Boats between 1979 and 1984.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Shoal draft: 4.25’/1.3m.

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Review of Cal 31

Basic specs..

The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.

The Cal 31 has been built with different keel alternatives.

One option is a fin keel. The fin keel is the most common keel and provides splendid manoeuvrability. The downside is that it has less directional stability than a long keel.

The boat can enter most marinas as the draft is just about 1.52 - 1.62 meter (4.99 - 5.29 ft) dependent on the load.

Another option is a fin keel.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.30 - 1.40 meter (4.27 - 4.57 ft) dependent on the load.

Cal 31 is typically equipped with an inboard Universal diesel engine at 16 hp (11 kW). Calculated max speed is about 5.0 knots

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.8 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Cal 31 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

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maintenance on 1979 Cal -31new post

• Thread starter seniorladysailor
• Start date Nov 17, 2020
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

seniorladysailor

Just bought a used Cal-31. Boat has not been used lately. What should I do first to bring boat back to greatness?  

sailnoproblem

Wow that’s a tough question. I guess first make sure it’s a safe boat sail. It’s hard to give you a suggestion without knowing the condition, pictures are always helpful.  

Congratulations! And welcome to SBO. Did you have the boat surveyed before you bought it? Typically the surveyor will list the most important and critical items that need to be repaired.  

Hi Dave, No survey as boat was part of quick,cheap estate sale. I have had the bottom cleaned with new zincs and no blisters. I have had my mechanic check the inboard diesel and ordered new parts. The boat was not used too much but the guy who owned it treated it very well and fixed anything that didn't work. The sails and rigging are in decent shape. I have a group of friends and family that are experienced sailors to advise me.  

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

• Keeping the water outside the hull
• Assuring the mast stays up
• The boats steering is sound
• Sails are good
• Equipment is functional

Kings Gambit

Hi. Congrats on the new boat! Nice to own a Cal. Yes. The best way to proceed is to have the survey done now. Hard to be very helpful here without details. Diesel inspection is not included in a hull survey, so you would not be paying double for anything.  

Not much to add... I’d use @jssailem ’s checklist and then go sailing. ... and welcome to SBO  

The first thing I would do is to make sure all of the rigging parts are there and that it goes together. Because eventually you'll launch it and someone will put the mast up and if all the parts aren't there you're stuck. By parts I mean shrouds, whatever type of connector there is to the mast (Ball Fitting...), turnbuckles, tangs for the chainplates, Gooseneck and associated clevis pins, Outhaul wire or line with shackle and clevis pin, vang with connectors, Forestay with or without furler, backstay with or without adjustable component, spreaders and mast spreader mounts and shroud to spreader assembly. While you're checking for completeness look for wires with broken strands, rusty swages, worn or bend clevis pins, Clevis pin receptors with have an out of round shape. Make sure thru hulls are either closed or able to be closed before launch. (Engine cooling water has to be open to start the engine.) As for the engine, new oil, new oil filter, new fuel and new battery. See if it starts. Then, go for a sail.  

shemandr said: The first thing I would do is to make sure all of the rigging parts are there and that it goes together. Because eventually you'll launch it and someone will put the mast up and if all the parts aren't there you're stuck. By parts I mean shrouds, whatever type of connector there is to the mast (Ball Fitting...), turnbuckles, tangs for the chainplates, Gooseneck and associated clevis pins, Outhaul wire or line with shackle and clevis pin, vang with connectors, Forestay with or without furler, backstay with or without adjustable component, spreaders and mast spreader mounts and shroud to spreader assembly. While you're checking for completeness look for wires with broken strands, rusty swages, worn or bend clevis pins, Clevis pin receptors with have an out of round shape. Make sure thru hulls are either closed or able to be closed before launch. (Engine cooling water has to be open to start the engine.) As for the engine, new oil, new oil filter, new fuel and new battery. See if it starts. Then, go for a sail. Click to expand

Dear Shemandr, My Cal-31 is already in the water at a marina in Northern Calif. and my mechanic is handling all the engine related issues but I still need to find someone to check the rigging and sails before I take the boat out for a sail. My late husband was in charge of all those issues in the prior sailboats we owned many years ago but I guess I will have to find some professionals to advise me now.  

seniorladysailor said: Just bought a used Cal-31. Boat has not been used lately. What should I do first to bring boat back to greatness? Click to expand

Hello seniorladysailor, and welcome to SBO Forums. As mentioned in earlier posts a survey would be a good idea. A certified surveyor will point out the parts of the boat that need attention. Be there with the surveyor and listen plus take notes. You will get a written report and pictures to illustrate what is mentioned. The survey will include a list of "must be done" and a list of "recommended to be done" items. That survey might be necessary for insurance for your boat that might be required by a marina where you keep the boat, and the "must be done" items will need attention. It will also give you an estimate of the boat's value at the time of the survey. A rigger will be needed to inspect and to tune the rigging. That is separate from the survey. Again, be there when the inspection is done and take notes on how the tuning was done and of recommendation of parts to be replaced. Respectfully, 31seahorse  

I love my Cal-31. Other than the standard stuff above, Check the spreader brackets! In SF Bay, reef early! I run a 150/155 headsail because most of my power come from the headsail, but you will probably only need a 120/135. Are you running a foil? hank on? roller furl?  

P.S. There is a FB group just for Cal-31 I got my Cal after years unused. All lines needed replaced. I added A/C and Refer kit  

Well, I too got my new to me Cal-31 from an estate sale and the boat has not been used and some time but it seems to be in pretty good shape. I am working with a great mechanic to upgrade the engine and the sails are still ok but I still have to have a professional look at the rigging. Also how do I sign up for the FB Cal-31 group?  

seniorladysailor said: husband was in charge of all those issues in the prior sailboats we owned many years ago but I guess I will have to find some professionals to advise me now. Click to expand

Polish it, if nothing else that will help you find any little glitchy stuff that wasn't noticed earlier. Welcome to SBO. Ask around at your marina about a local sail loft and rigger however you're likely to find that information faster here because there are many sailors out of the San Francisco area on this site. You will be a step ahead when asking about more specific questions on equipment by taking a picture of it with your cell phone and posting it when asking.  

seniorladysailor said: Well, I too got my new to me Cal-31 from an estate sale and the boat has not been used and some time but it seems to be in pretty good shape. I am working with a great mechanic to upgrade the engine and the sails are still ok but I still have to have a professional look at the rigging. Also how do I sign up for the FB Cal-31 group? Click to expand

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• Sailboat Reviews

An older Cal 34 can be a good entry-level cruiser for the handyman, but we like the later interior.

Bill Lapworth didn’t invent light-displacement cruiser-racers, but his name is indelibly linked with the type. At 15,000 pounds of displacement on a 30′ waterline, the Cal 40 is still a fairly light boat, especially considering the low-tech materials and techniques available when she was introduced. Lapworth designed a number of smaller sisters to the Cal 40 in the late 1960’s, all looking as alike as peas in a pod.

If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then Lapworth should have been very flattered at the interest his Cal designs generated, for Frank Butler, now owner of Catalina, designed several successful boats for Coronado that were remarkably similar to Lapworth’s Cals.

Perhaps the most successful of the little sisters to the Cal 40 was the Cal 34. The Cal 34 was in production off and on, and in various configurations, from 1966 until 1979.

Although the hull form of the Cal 34 remained basically unchanged during its production life, enough changes were made in the rig, deck molding, and interior for the boat to have three model designations: Cal 34, Cal 2-34, and Cal 3-34.

Sailing Performance The Cal 34 was conceived as a true racer-cruiser, and early promotional literature stressed her racing performance. The original rig was a low aspect ratio masthead sloop. With a foot length of 14′ and a hoist of 33.5′, the mainsail was of typical late CCA (Cruising Club of America) Rule proportions. The long boom of the original short rig overhangs the cockpit awkwardly, with the mainsheet traveler just forward of the aft end of the cockpit. According to owners, this makes access to the cockpit lockers a nuisance, as well as squandering cockpit space. The tiller occupies the entire forward half of the cockpit, so that the helmsman sits just aft of the deckhouse, while the sail trimmers sit further aft.

The rig on the 2-34 and the 3-34 is just over 2′ taller and the boom 3′ shorter than the original. These dimensions give the rig much more modern proportions, reducing the size of the mainsail by 40 square feet and increasing the aspect ratio of the main from about 2.5:1 to 3.25:1. With the taller rig, the typical PHRF rating of the boat is six seconds per mile faster.

Most Cal 34 owners we surveyed consider the boat to be about the same speed as similar boats upwind, and somewhat faster downwind. This assessment jibes with the performance of most Lapworth designs, which are at their best off the wind. The boat’s PHRF rating, however, suggests that, on the whole, the boat is actually slower than more modern designs of the same size. The C&C 34, for example, is rated about 25 seconds per mile faster than the Cal 3-34.

According to owners, it takes a good breeze to get the Cal 34 moving. With her large, trapezoidal fin keel, the Cal 34 simply has a lot more wetted surface than more modern fin keel boats, although substantially less wetted surface than a full keel design.

Many owners of the original Cal 34 have shortened the foot of the mainsail to improve the boat’s balance. The taller-rigged boats have inherently better balance, since the center of effort of the entire sail plan is further forward. Boats with the short rig and a shortened mainsail foot are likely to be underpowered in light air.

One advantage of the shorter boom is to get rid of the traveler at the aft end of the cockpit. Instead, the traveler is mounted on the bridgedeck, or over the main companionway. While this location would be awkward for racing a tiller-steered boat, it’s good for cruising, since the helmsman could handle the mainsheet as well as the tiller.

One of the most commonly-seen modifications to earlier boats is the installation of wheel steering. This requires relocating the mainsheet on the longerboom boats, but it frees up the space in the cockpit dramatically. The Cal 34 really has a large cockpit, but the tiller and original mainsheet arrangement wasted a huge amount of space. Wheel steering is standard in the 3-34 version of the boat, built in 1976 and later.

Construction The Cal 34 has a relatively unsophisticated, hand laid-up hull. Owners consider the boat to be above average in strength of hull, deck, and rig. A number of owners report that the main bulkhead tends to delaminate due to leaking chainplates. Since this is potentially a serious structural problem, any Cal 34 should be carefully surveyed for signs of leakage in this area. Be particularly cautious about any boat in which the main bulkhead has been painted out, rather than left varnished: look carefully for water stains around the chainplates.

Other areas to check are the deck around the mast step, and the fiberglass keel molding. Internally ballasted boats such as the Cal 34 frequently suffer damage on the toe of the keel when running aground. The keel molding should not ring hollow when tapped with a mallet, which would indicate a loose ballast casting—a sign that the boat has been run aground hard.

Older Cal boats are not heavily built: their light displacement precludes excess material. Furniture and bulkhead tabbing are relatively light, notoriously so in the old Cal 40. The saying about the Cal 40 is that when the berths pop loose in the forward cabin, it’s time to reduce sail.

Despite fairly light construction, we know of several Cal 34s that have done impressive ocean voyaging. We wouldn’t consider a boat of this age and construction suitable for ocean cruising without a careful survey of all structural components. Lightdisplacement hulls such as that of the Cal 34 get a lot of stiffness from the bonding of furniture to the hull. Keeping it in place is important.

One problem area is the chainplates. Several owners report chainplate failure due to metal fatigue, and one owner found several other partially broken chainplates when he replaced on that had broken.

On the whole, however, the Cal 34 is relatively free of structural defects that would be the result of poor workmanship or choice of materials. The faults you find are more commonly a function of the age of the individual boat. For example, some owners report sloppy rudders due to wear of the fiberglass tube which serves as stuffing box and bearing for the rudder stock—a common aging problem with this type of rudder installation.

Pay particular attention to the condition of the gelcoat, particularly the deck gelcoat. Crazing is very common. Unless it has been painted, the distinctive blue Cal sheerstrake is likely to be badly faded in older boats.

In the late 60’s and early 70’s, many West Coast boats, including Cals, were notorious for mediocre systems installations, particularly wiring and plumbing. If an older Cal 34 has had a lot of electronics added, there’s a good chance that the wiring has been pigtailed onto existing circuits, a poor practice. Older Cal 34s also had gate valves rather than seacocks on through hull fittings. These should be replaced.

Other minor weak points include the lack of backing plates on stanchions, which can cause localized crazing of the deck, and leaking aluminumframed cabin ports.

Owners recommend putting in larger cockpit scuppers. The big cockpit can hold a lot of water, and the two small stock scuppers are inadequate.

Interior There have been two interior layouts in the boat. The original Cal 34 and the 2-34 have two quarterberths aft, with the galley to starboard and a dinette to port in the main cabin. The later Cal 3-34s have a more modern conventional layout, with galley aft to port, quarterberth and chart table to starboard. The saloon of the last version has a settee to starboard, dinette to port. Both layouts have V-berths in the forward cabin with the head between the main cabin and forward cabin. Head layout is different in the two models.

On the whole, we think the later layout is superior, although the galley is actually larger in the original version. On older boats, most owners use the dining table for chart work, although it would be quite easy to design a slide-away chart table to fit over the head of one of the quarterberths.

The interior finish of the boats changed a lot over the years. The original Cal 34 had a varnished mahogany plywood interior with varnished mahogany trim. Later boats went to the oiled teak cave look of the 1970s.

There is no doubt that the original interior is lighter and brighter than the later teak interior. However, a varnished mahogany interior requires more upkeep than an oiled teak interior, and is harder to restore to good condition if it has been allowed to deteriorate. Mahogany blackens when exposed to salt water, while teak merely bleaches out and can be reclaimed with a little sanding.

There’s a lot more in the way of creature comforts in the 3-34, in keeping with the growing view that cruising should be more than an expensive form of camping out. Water capacity was increased from the marginal 26 gallons of the early boats to a more serviceable 60 gallons, hot and cold pressure water were standard, and a shower was installed.

The interior is a good selling point in any of the three models. For its length overall, the Cal 34—which is really just over 33′ long—has a lot of interior volume. Headroom on centerline in the main cabin is 6′ 2″. The boat easily has as much interior space as older boats 3′ or more longer.

Engine Like most boats built in the late ’60s, the Cal 34 was originally powered by the Atomic Four gas engine. The engine is located under the cockpit, but is reasonably accessible from either of the quarterberths.

The propeller is driven through a V-drive, and some owners report problems with this unit. A thorough mechanical survey is a must when buying a Cal 34.

In the mid-’70s, diesel engines made their appearance in the boat. A variety of diesels have been installed, including Farymann, 25 and 30 horsepower Westerbekes, and the Perkins 4-91. We would not buy a boat with a Farymann diesel, since parts are difficult or impossible to find. Oddly enough, the most desirable engine for the boat may be the old Atomic 4, which many owners report to be still running strong at 15 years of age or more. Parts are readily available, and are likely to be for some time to come. You could also consider replacing the Atomic Four with one of the Universal diesels designed as a drop-in replacement for the engine.

One disadvantage of the new version of the interior is that engine accessibility has been sacrificed. Owners consider access fair to poor in the aft galley interior, fair to good in the double quarterberth version.

One oddity is that many owners report that the boat pulls strongly to starboard under power, requiring a lot of helm for correction, while another owner reports that the boat pulls strongly to port with the same engine!

Buying a Used Boat Early models of the Cal 34 are well over two decades old today. A lot of changes have occurred in the industry in those 25 years, as well as in the expectations we have for medium-sized cruising boats. Certainly a lot of features of the later Cal 34s—the more efficient rig, better sail handling layout, wheel steering, anchor locker, diesel engine, bigger water capacity and other creature comforts, and more useful interior layout—make them more desirable for most uses. Of course, the price of newer boats reflects the improvements.

An older Cal 34 would be a good choice as an entry-level, medium-sized family cruising boat. A lot of the gear on older models will be painfully obsolete. The rigging, sails, and electronics are likely to be old. Unless the boat has been unusually well maintained, the wood cockpit coamings may need replacing, the hull is likely to need painting, and the deck gelcoat will be crazed.

Blistering has been a relatively minor problem with older Cals, but the hull should obviously be carefully surveyed for high moisture content.

The base price of the Cal 34 in 1969 was $16,800. This was for a stripped boat—the base price didn’t even include lifelines and stanchions.

The next year the base price climbed to $19,277, and it continued to escalate throughout the boat’s production history.

There’s a good chance that an older Cal 34 will give you all the opportunities your heart could ever desire to learn to tinker with fiberglass repairs and the upgrading of systems.

If you’re willing to do this type of stuff yourself, a 20-year-old performance cruiser that you can buy in today’s market for $20,000 or so may be a lot of boat for the money. If you want a lower maintenance boat, stick to a late model Cal 34—but be prepared to pay significantly more.

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Lots of useful info even though I’ve had a Cal 2-34 for 25 years ! Better check those chain plates…

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Any reviews of the Cal 33-2?

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Hi all, I'm in the middle of a boat search, and I've become interested in the Cal 33-2. So far, the only info I've found on these boats is a Bob Perry review of the design (but not the boat itself). Does anyone know if there is a full review of this boat anywhere? I'm also wondering if anyone has any information about the build quality. I'm not that familiar with 80s Cal construction methods, so any information about things like solid vs. cored hull, what type of hull-to-deck joint, backing plates on hardware--those sort of things--would be very helpful. Also, any major known issues (other than the standard stuff on all older boats) is really appreciated. Thanks for your help! -J  

I'll second the request, as I have my eye on one as well. EGS  

They are a glass hull, very competently put together, IMHO a very nice design for a performance coastal cruiser.  

Cal 33-2 I own a Cal 34, big brother to the boat to the model you asked about. I can tell you that Cal's are legendary sailboats, built to last. The 34 sails fast enough to beat most boats her LOA today. My hull is solid glass, cored deck and solid cabin top. The hardware was some of the best available when the boat was built 31 years ago. I just replace 4 port lights with stainless steel and the hardest part was getting the old ones out! They never leaked but the hardware failed to a point they became inoperable. The deck to hull on ours is riveted and glassed over. Its' impossible to get leaks inside the hull from that joint. Resale is usually high, if the boat is well maintained. Most boats of this vintage will have Westerbeke diesels that need attention. Parts are scarce and we have decided to re-power even though there are only 2,800 hrs on ours. The Paragon V-Drive has failed and no parts are available. The joinery on our boat is still beautiful and the layout is perfect for us. I'd take it anywhere in the world. As you can tell, we are very fond of our Cal. Yahoo has a very active Cal users group you might want to visit. Cheers, Dan  

I bought a 1987 Cal 33 this June and am very satified with is construction and preformance. Competes well in the Wed night racing on the Miles River. I have already won my first long distance race beating both PERF 1 and 2 boats. This all with crusing sails and second hand spinniker gear. Some gel coat cracks on deck and some leakage around the chain plates. Will take care of this over the winter.  

Long term owner of early hull # in 1986. Shoal draft. Note Cal 34 is not related in any way with the 33-2. Two different designs and builders. What I like? Sailplan, fore and aft berths, engine, engine access, mast, cockpit layout. Sails better than expected. Just finished 30 mile upwind slug in 25 knots with #3 and single reefed main. Headroom below is great and it is generally a decent looking boat Things I really do not like. Forward hull oil cans in a chop (this might have been remedied in later builds). General construction of the deck has many sharp 90 degree corners above and below decks aft. Meaning more stress cracking and gel coat voids at the corners...plus dangerous if you land on one of them. Cockpit lazarrette lid is heavy, bulky, and thus a safety hazard when open in a chop. The U shaped starboard settee is just not a good design for group dinner or for sleeping upon. Original traveler is a joke. I've years on Swans and Sabres. I would place the build quality below Sabre and Tartan of same vintage, but the price will also be lower. I'm not sure I would do it again.  

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