yacht varnish on garden furniture

• A solvent-based yacht varnish for all exterior wood
• Offers long lasting protection
• Waterproofs and protects wood against sun damage
• Resists cracking, peeling and blistering
• Enhances the natural beauty of the timber
• Available in a clear gloss or satin finish
• High V.O.C content

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Ronseal Yacht Varnish is a traditional outdoor varnish, ideal for use on bare wood or over existing solvent-based finishes, such as varnish. It protects exterior wood against the elements, and it is flexible so it will not crack, peel or blister.

Please Note: This product is not suitable for use on painted wood or decking.

Ronseal Yacht Varnish has been specially formulated for use on external, smooth planed wood.

Preparation

Make sure it's a warm, dry day, above 10°C and that the wood to be varnished is clean, dry and free from dust, dirt and any other surface contaminants.

Bare Timber

• Lightly sand the surface to remove any loose wood fibres, then clean with a lint-free cloth dampened with methylated spirits and leave to dry before varnishing
• Any old, decayed, loose wood must be removed before treating the affected area with Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener prior to filling
• Any existing woodworm can be eradicated with Ronseal Woodworm Killer
• Fill any gaps in the wood with Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler or Ronseal Multi Purpose Wood Filler

Previously Stained or Varnished Timber

• All varnish in loose or poor condition should be removed with a scraper or a dedicated varnish remover
• Sand thoroughly to provide a key to help the varnish stick, then clean with a lint-free cloth dampened with white spirit and allow to dry

Application

Always do a small test area before beginning any project to assess colour and compatibility. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the tin at all times. Stir thoroughly before and during use.

• Apply Yacht Varnish evenly with a good quality synthetic brush in the direction of the wood grain
• Apply 3 coats to bare wood; 2 coats should be sufficient for previously stained or varnished wood
• Allow 8 hours between each coat
• Before the final coat, give the surface a light sanding and wipe with a lint-free cloth dampened with meths

Cleaning Equipment

Remove as much varnish as possible from brushes before cleaning. Clean using white spirit or a dedicated paint brush cleaner. Do not empty into drains or watercourses.

Maintenance

If the finish shows signs of wear over time, simply apply a fresh coat of Ronseal Yacht Varnish , following the Preparation and Application instructions above.

This product is an exterior product. Often with exterior products, they are flexible to cope with the expansion and contraction of the wood, but they do not tend to be as durable, meaning that this wouldn't last as long in this environment. Why not consider Ronseal Diamond Hard Interior Varnish instead.

Ronseal Yacht Varnish is only really suitable for smooth exterior wood like doors and windows. This isn't usually what we would recommend for fences as the coating is likely to fail due to increased movement and flexibility. Why not call our Woodcare Experts on 01303 213838 to discuss your options.

Ronseal Yacht Varnish - Safety Information

This is the Business. Water based product by same company remained sticky and gathered dirt on a high use table for 2 years, it seemed never to dry.

It has a lovely finish, takes quite a while to harden

Easy to apply and a quality finish, delighted with the results.

Easy to use, satin leaves a good sheen

Easy to use and gives a great finish.

We use this varnish to coat our wooden garden sculptures and the finish is really good while giving great protection.

This is not clear varnish. I largely discarded the instruction (apart from the temperature) and thinned the first 3 coats. Then, applied other two full coats and the wood took a nice rich colour. Very pleased with it.

This the only external varnish that I use, and I have never owned a yacht! A good hard protected finish and it lasts years in an English garden.

Easy to use and the result is good!

Good shape of tin with well fitting lid. Product should be stirred well. Easy to apply, satin finish as expected, has slight colour the amount depending on the base. Only time will tell how well it performs in sun, wind and rain.

It waterproof the shed keeping the wood looking beautiful

Easy to use with a great finish. Will use it again.

Used this as the cheaper one I normally use was out of stock. Supposedly drys quicker, but wasn’t rock hard for about a week. I have foot marks all over.

Many finishes have a relatively quick drying time and are able to be put into light use, however the products will continue to cure over a period of days and weeks before becoming fully hard. Each product will vary in timings and we recommend light use and no covering such as rugs for a minimum of 7 days.

Painted 5 Internal doors excellent finish. You must rub down the old work first to get a good finish.

I use it on my wooden canoe. It looks fantastic.

Used in restoration of 3 old park benches for village. Base treatment on new timber was Barrettine Premier Golden Brown. That was followed by a couple of coats of this Yacht Varnish. They look truly magnificent, and should last a few years.

In a perfect world, it would set a little harder, but I am dragging heavy loads across the wood every day. Applied really well no complaints.

Used it to protect an oak front door. Looks great and doesn't darken the oak. Not had a winter on it yet.

Arrived quickly and does exactly as it says on the tin. Easy to apply too.

Only used a bit so hard to judge but seems good.

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Written by Terry Smith

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UK’s best exterior varnish for woodwork: Ronseal, Rustins, and Everbuild compared on price, clear glaze, and protection from water

This article was last updated on April 23rd, 2022 at 1:18 am

Exterior varnish is an excellent method of protecting your fence, shed , garden furniture , and almost any wood work outside without detracting too much from your natural wood look, unlike a  stain which is essentially a painted finish. Teak oil is comparable to varnish but not quite as vibrant, normally more matt. If you head to my my decking oil page you can see the difference between the finish there, and really a really vibrant varnish finish:

If you like a good light wood colour like pine and really want that natural timber look and feel to come through then you’ve come to the right place – however not all wood is quite as shiny as the pictured example above. In this article I’ve looked at the normal exterior varnish finishes including gloss and satin (matt is better for interior varnish ) to give you the best overall understanding as to which exterior varnish is going to suit you and your woodwork. We’ve rated the best exterior outdoor varnish based on overall protection (does rain water form beads and run away), discolouration of timber, the quality of the finish and how it looks (bubbles?), ease of application, as well as the price. And just before you dive in, please feel free to take a look at how to get the most from your exterior varnish and some of the best methods and practises.

Best varnish: editor picks for wood exterior:

Best exterior varnish: Ronseal YVS500 500ml Exterior Yacht Varnish Satin – Designed to repel salty sea water: totally over engineered for your average garden furniture making it the best pick by far. Alternative satin finish if you want a better price than Ronseals: Rustins EAVS500 500ml Outdoor Varnish Satin Best gloss varnish finish: Everbuild EVBWVARCLG07 Quick Dry Wood Varnish Gloss Alternative to the Everbuild gloss: Rustins EAVG250 250ml Outdoor Varnish Gloss – Rustins is the name in varnish and very trustable. Quality for decking on a boat/yacht: Johnstone’s 309309 Woodcare Outdoor Yacht Varnish

How to get superb exterior varnish results

Don’t try to use a mini roller for perfect finishes. The trick is a really nice quality brush and let the stroke marks fade together as the varnish levels itself. From my personal experience of corner cutting with a roller it’ll always tend to bubble and try to ‘lift up’. The smart way is a brush and go steady. If you really need to go faster you can try paint pads which make a reasonably good job of this.

Most varnishes are ready to coat again in about six hours. Make sure you pay attention to the specific re-coating times, the last thing you want is to pull and flake or smudge the first layer. It basically then will need to set rock had and be sanded off to come back to a nice finish.

Talking of sanding. A little 240/320 grit, I don’t mind using an orbital sander here, it’s ideal with a fine grit pad. Over each layer of varnish, put a key on so the subsequent layers to bond too is always good practise (key means a light light sand). From years of experience I can tell you the application of vanish is just as much about the prep as it is the quality of material used to get a cracking finish.

Lastly plan well. This is a fair weather job and almost all formulas will rely on good warm weather and no rain.

Dark and light varnish examples (Gloss and Satin)

There are two types of varnish – dark and light. The I would break them down as gloss is the lighter (but still slightly darkens your timber) and satin which will darken your timber. Here’s a look at furniture with a satin/matt finish:

A lighter varnish is normally glossy but will still send it a bit darker – obviously much depends on the grain and colour but here’s a lighter timber with a gloss varnish:

Can I varnish over paint?

In some cases yes, but not the varnish in this article – you’ll want to strip paint before varnishing (and sand heavily to get the natural wood back). An alternative is to blast your furniture with a powerful pressure washer like my petrol version and strip off the treatment/stain/paint first. Please note going to close with so much power can tear the grain a bit so please be careful:

Don’t varnish over wax

One thing you just flat out can’t do is varnish over wax. The reason being, wax repels almost everything! And that includes your varnish too – it’ll literally stop it seeping into the grain so will just wash off, look bubbly, and patchy as well – you will pull your hair out. I highly recommend sanding and blasting off with a pressure washer – note the sanding discs will clog quickly with wax and you’ve also got to consider – do you mind getting your timber wet if using a pressure washer?

Best ways to remove varnish

There are a few sensible ways to remove varnish. My personal preference is a heat gun and then sand, it’ll basically melt the vanish out – this is the way to go without chemicals. The easiest is a varnish stripper – some use a blasting pot (sand pot blasted at timber) which is fine but it can be a bit aggressive on the timber. This is how we do it commercially.

1. Ronseal YVS500 500ml Exterior Yacht Varnish Satin

My number one pick is Ronseal YVS500 500ml Exterior Yacht Varnish Satin. Yep, you read it right, a formula made for yachts. This varnish is absolutely superior in protection to standard varnish in almost every way. The idea of yacht varnish is to repel salt water battering hand rails and decking every single day. The result is a superior finish, a far harder wearing protective layer that cracks and flakes much much more slowly and there’s no way you can call it more expensive because it’ll last miles longer than the average varnish formula.

When you think about it, you can see it stands to reason that the product has to be superior. You are not just paying the upfront extra for a few words, it has a different chemical formula to protect from UV damage to standard varnishes.

In my experience applying this to the trails of my boat as well as the decking I found that I covered about 8m2 and you’ll want 2-3 coats. However, on the sawn wood of fences with far more surface area as a result of the rugged finish, I would say I didn’t get much more than 6m2. I do grant you it’s not the cheapest way to go about protecting your fence or shed, but it sure looks superb. I feel the satin gives just the right look between gloss and dull, and for that reason the Ronseal YVS500 500ml Exterior Yacht Varnish Satin is my favourite exterior varnish. I know I get a bit excited about Ronseal and Cuprinol but that’s for good reason, especially Cuprinol 5 Star , that is some product over the decades I’ve been using it trust me. Anyway don’t let me waffle about wood treatments, you’ll soon get bored – this is a top top product that leaves a lovely hard wearing sheen that’s shiny but not in an over the top gloss way. And by the way the gloss thing is my personal preference, unseal have you covered with the gloss version of this formula which gives serious shine if you so prefer!

If you want to try to fault this product then you might say it’ll slightly darken your timber. Given it’s a satin finish, and what almost all other varnishes will do, I think this is me nit picking. Use this product with absolute confidence.

2. Rustins EAVS500 500ml Outdoor Varnish Satin

Let’s say you want a really good finish with a very good quality varnish without the Ronseals yacht varnish price tag, then Rustins EAVS500 500ml Outdoor Varnish Satin is your go to product in my mind. It’s an excellent formula and much like the Ronseal you will get 6-8m2 out of half a litre tins. It has the added benefit of being pretty much touch dry on a Summers day in half an hour and you can coat it again in four hours. This is due to it being a water based formula. Don’t ty to do this in cold weather, it doesn’t set quickly or right. It needs to be warm. Rustins say it should be at least 10 degrees but let’s be realistic, painting outside in 18 + degrees is much more comfortable anyway. Have an eye on the weather too, you don’t want rain in sight.

A handy tip with this varnish is to add a little water and stir it up well. Yep you hears that right. It’ll help with the viscosity and applies that much more easily. Use a decent soft tipped paint brush to apply for the best looking finish. Where it falls down though compared to the yacht varnish is coats. Expect to layer up 4 but possibly even 5 times to get a really deep solid finish. A porous fence panel will certainly drink this varnish so if you need plenty then follow the link for this product on the review table and select a bigger tin. You get far better value that way.

To sum this product up, it is only beaten by Yacht varnish in my opinion. It’s better than all other standard vanishes I know.

3. Everbuild EVBWVARCLG07 Quick Dry Wood Varnish Gloss

Everbuild make some really nice sealants. That’s not just for wood, I also really like their Everbuild patio sealer too. I’ve found their sealers to be good for both domestic and commercial application and always strike the balance between quality and price, with good value being their strongest card.

If you’re looking for a varnish that doesn’t do the ‘yellowing thing’ then this is probably a good choice for you. A 2.5 litre tin is a bargain at £25 quid and covers about 40-50m2. It’s pretty much a low odour varnish and dries quickly like the Rustins gloss   , however has the advantage of being overcoat-able in about an hour. I would say though with the discolouration almost any varnish can do this if you ty to put too much on in one go. Keep your coats thin and neat. This will give a much bette look in the end despite being more work.

Don’t be concerned when you open the tin to find a milk colour. This is not a gone off batch. This is normal. It will dry clear so no panicking 🙂

Overall it’s a good buy and well priced and probably a flip with Rustin’s but I still prefer Ronseal even though it costs double.

4. Rustins EAVG250 250ml Outdoor Varnish Gloss

As I mentioned earlier glossy varnish isn’t my hat but it wouldn’t be fair to leave out Rustins EAVG250 250ml Outdoor Varnish Gloss. It’s a cracking product, almost second to none with exception only to the yacht vanish.

Like the Rustins satin, it’s touch dry in 30 minutes and re-coatable in four hours. You’l also need four to five thin coats to get a really nice looking finish. It’s almost identical to the satin but with a shinier finish. Brush cleaning is easy and the formula is pretty good as far as non drip is concerned.

The thing I like about this formula is it will go nicely on top of paint and certainly does highlight and even accentuate a paint finish. Make sure the surface you apply to is solid or it’ll flake and look naff. This is pretty much 101 of any paintwork prep though. It’ll go slightly darker than your natural finish but that’s to be expected of almost every single varnish.

A great product and one of those rare ones that actually does what it says on the tin. A definite recommend for anyone looking for a gloss finish.

5. Johnstone's 309310 Woodcare Outdoor Yacht Varnish

To round off the reviews I had to go with another yacht vanish. The Johnstone’s 309310 Woodcare Outdoor Yacht Varnish is a superb product and only second to Ronseal’s on price really. You can expect superb results from this formula and considerably cheaper too – an absolute bargain when you pick the 750ml tin over the 250ml – don’t worry, I’ve updated the link to send you to the 750ml – my apologies, I previously listed the 250ml.

It coats very nicely over previously stained or vanished wood and leaves a really study hard wearing surface. It’s designed for boat decking that is walked on everyday as well as battling the elements – sea water spray, rain, and seagull’s droppings. It won’t crack or peel easily at all and is easily superior to standard exterior varnish – it has to be, a deck on a yacht costs literally thousands, there’s no way you can formulate a sub standard product here so if the intention is garden furniture, then expect years of service if you coat it up heavy. It’ll repel a cordless pressure washer too – something I’ve personally tested.

It’s oil based so in my opinion darkens timber, perhaps even a little more than Ronseal however I don’t personally find that to be a problem. I think the finish enhances over a long period of time and it’s a very natural looking finish that essentially lifts the overall look.

A word of waning, don’t try to lay this on thick, it’ll take ages to set. Go with nice thin coats in warmer weather (essentially following the exterior varnish guidelines I gave above).

About Terry Smith

I’m Terry Smith from gardentoolbox.co.uk, a professional landscape designer, hobbyist gardener, and barbecue fanatic with 20 years experience building and restoring. So as you go through my site you'll watch me document some of the professional garden installs I make as well as the major projects I take on at home. While sharing those experiences and guiding you, I'll be recommending some great tools I use to enable this along the way so you can really buy in confidence. Always feel free to pop me a message: [email protected]

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TotalBoat-496608 Lust Marine Varnish, High Gloss and Matte Finish for Wood, Boats, Outdoor Furniture (Matte, Gallon)

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About this item

• MARINE GRADE VARNISH imparts a rich, clear amber tone that enhances wood grain; creates a durable, uv resistant, waterproof finish that won't fade; ideal for interior and exterior wood, brightwork on boats & outdoor furniture
• CLASSIC SPAR VARNISH WITH A MODERN TWIST: High-build, fast-drying formula allows rapid recoating, multiple coats per day and no sanding between coats; sand lightly before the final coat - be done in a little over 1 day
• FLEXIBLE COATING WON'T CRACK OR PEEL: Premium, oil-based marine polyurethane finish is not damaged when wood expands and contracts with changes in temperature; perfect for all types of wood
• EASY TO APPLY by brushing, rolling or spraying; For a high gloss varnish finish apply 6-8 coats of Lust Gloss; for a smooth satin finish, build with coats of Lust gloss varnish; use Lust Matte for the finish coats
• AVAILABLE IN HIGH GLOSS OR MATTE FINISH in Pint, Quart and Gallon sizes; Thinner: TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 (brushing/rolling) or TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101 (spraying); Coverage: 360-400 sq. ft./gallon

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TotalBoat Lust Marine Spar Varnish

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Product Description

Lust is the first true one-part marine spar varnish that lets you finish any varnish job faster because you can apply multiple coats in one day - without sanding between coats. It cures to a warm, rich, clear amber tone with a high gloss or matte finish that looks spectacular on all types of interior and exterior marine and household wood, including teak brightwork, toe rails, hand rails, trim, doors, cabinets, outdoor patio furniture, bar tops, tabletops, and more. This marine varnish is truly an exciting innovation because you can recoat Lust in as little as 1 hour at 72 degrees F, ultimately applying up to 5 coats in one day! You can't do that with traditional marine varnishes that require tedious sanding between coats, and that have a thin film build requiring 10 or more coats. There are also marine wood finishes that mimic the look of varnish but are no substitute for the real thing. TotalBoat Lust has a linseed oil modified polyurethane formula for smooth flow-out, and is easy to apply by brushing, rolling, or spraying. Its unique formula also makes Lust flexible when it cures, similar to tung oil varnishes. Flexibility is very important in exterior applications because wood tends to contract and expand with seasonal outdoor temperature and humidity changes. And compared to exterior polyurethane, Lust has stronger UV properties that make it a perfect choice for boat brightwork, teak, household trim, exterior doors, wood sculpture and artwork, and more. Available in a High Gloss Varnish or Matte Varnish finish. Compare to Epifanes Clear Varnish, Wood Finish Matte, Wood Finish Gloss, Pettit Flagship Varnish, Z Spar Captain's Varnish, Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, Varathane Spar Varnish, Rust-Oleum Marine Spar Varnish, System Three Clear Marine Spar Urethane Varnish Coating, and Old Masters Spar Marine Varnish. All TotalBoat products provide great value and great results. 100% made in the USA.

From the manufacturer

A Glorious Finish in 1 Day

TotalBoat Lust Marine Varnish is the first true, one-part spar varnish that allows multiple coats in one day, with no sanding required in between.

Classic Varnish with a Modern Twist

Totalboat lust marine varnish is different – and better.

TotalBoat offers the FIRST one-part marine spar varnish that allows rapid recoating without sanding in between coats. Its exceptional durability makes it a great choice for brightwork, trim & more. Traditional marine varnishes require tedious sanding between coats, and their thin-film build means 15, 20, or even more coats required. Then there are the marine wood finishes that mimic the look of varnish, but are no substitute for the real thing. Only TotalBoat Lust varnish gives you the beauty & durability of a classic European spar varnish AND the easy application of varnish-alternative wood finishes.

Fast-Dry High-Build Formula Lets You Finish Varnishing Faster

TotalBoat Lust varnish has a linseed oil modified polyurethane formula for smooth flow-out. But unlike the others, this varnish lets you recoat in 1 hour (at 72 F), letting you apply up to 5 coats in one day. Start and finish your next varnish project in a single weekend! Whether you choose Gloss or Matte, the forgiving formula ensures a beautiful finish with exceptional clarity & durability.

Important Application Notes for Matte

Matte is not intended for use as a sealer (base) coat. For a low-sheen finish with maximum clarity, we recommend using Gloss or Gleam Gloss for sealer (base) and build coats. Finish with a topcoat of Matte, which can be thinned with TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 for improved flow.

Key Product Features for TotalBoat Lust Marine Varnish

• Cures to a lustrous amber finish.
• Recoat in as little as one hour.
• No sanding necessary between coats.
• High-build formula reduces number of coats required.
• Exceptional finish clarity & durability.
• Can be thinned for more coverage.
• Available in Gloss or Matte finish.

It all started simply enough. As boaters, we wanted better stuff for our own boats.

Even our favorite products, the ones we'd come to rely on, had room for improvement. It'd be nice if they could hold up longer, cure faster, coat better, apply easier, and—since we all know boat ownership creates a mini maelstrom in your pocket—cost less. So we took everything we knew from 35 years of customer feedback, combined that with our own boating knowledge, and after a few years of rigorous R&D, TotalBoat was born. Launched, rather. By boaters, for boaters.

Need help? The members of our TotalBoat Tech Team are boat owners who really know their stuff. So whether you're trying to figure out what to buy or what's the best solution for your particular project, they have years of hands-on training and experience—and a passion to help you succeed.

Top Brand: TotalBoat

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Important information

Prepare surface, thin varnish, apply with brush/roll/spray, recoat after 1 hour at 72°F, sand between coats, handle hot weather considerations, manage overcoating.

Customer reviews

• 5 star 4 star 3 star 2 star 1 star 5 star 78% 10% 4% 3% 5% 78%
• 5 star 4 star 3 star 2 star 1 star 4 star 78% 10% 4% 3% 5% 10%
• 5 star 4 star 3 star 2 star 1 star 3 star 78% 10% 4% 3% 5% 4%
• 5 star 4 star 3 star 2 star 1 star 2 star 78% 10% 4% 3% 5% 3%
• 5 star 4 star 3 star 2 star 1 star 1 star 78% 10% 4% 3% 5% 5%

Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them.

To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness.

Customers say

Customers like the finish, quality, and ease of application of the household varnish. They mention it's a very beautiful finish, the shine is excellent, and it works well. Some appreciate that it dries quickly and holds up under lots of outdoor use.

AI-generated from the text of customer reviews

Customers like the finish of the varnish. They mention it's beautiful, has an excellent shine, and is a thick amber varnish that goes on easy if properly thinned. Some say the finish is soft until it fully cures and that it goes on very smooth and even.

"...This stuff is great - looks gorgeous and so easy to keep clean! As for being slippery - yes it is, but no more so than a polished marble floor...." Read more

"...“blonde” wood (I wish I knew what kind) and it turned it into this beautiful , rich brown...." Read more

"I've had this table and chairs out in the weather for over a year. They look great and haven't been damaged by the heat, cold, rain, birds, or..." Read more

"...It still looks great today but a couple areas are checking and the varnish has cracked. The drawback.. each coat takes a day to cure...." Read more

Customers are satisfied with the quality of the product. They mention it's great, provides a great finish, and is still usable. Some say the product works as advertised and provides the best depth and shine on finished products they have seen.

"...The quick dry turnaround between coats is awesome. The end result is awesome . The application is a breeze. You won't be disappointed...." Read more

"...We make a mess - water is always getting on the floor. This stuff is great - looks gorgeous and so easy to keep clean!..." Read more

"... This stuff is great , and I'll use it whenever I need some heavy-duty varnish." Read more

"...I have to say it looked great and pretty flawless at this point. I am not a fan of shiny finish so I waited for the can of matte finish to arrive...." Read more

Customers find the varnish easy to apply. They mention it dries quickly without any problem of showing. Customers also appreciate the quick dry time, saying the entire process is complete in 2 days. They also mention the varnish flows on easily and levels out without brush marks.

"...The end result is awesome. The application is a breeze . You won't be disappointed...." Read more

"...This is hands down the easiest varnish I have ever used ...." Read more

"...I sanded down to 320, cleaned and applied. It went on smooth with very few imperfections ...." Read more

" Very easy to use this high gloss product. Time will show how long it lasts." Read more

Customers like that the varnish dries quickly. They mention it gives them a nice finish, is durable, and waterproof.

"...The quick dry turnaround between coats is awesome . The end result is awesome. The application is a breeze. You won't be disappointed...." Read more

"...I am so pleased - and did I say durable - waterproof - my dream come true...." Read more

"... Fast drying time between coats is highly efficient ." Read more

"This is a thick Marine Varnish. The varnish will dry in about 1 hour . You can sand the first coat that will dry in one hour...." Read more

Customers are satisfied with the durability of the varnish. They mention it holds up under lots of outdoor use, has a beautiful clear and tough finish, and builds an absolutely bulletproof top coat to protect the deck stain. It also withstands minor abrasions with no issues. It stands up amazingly well against snow, rain, and sun beating against their front door. Customers say it's easy to build up thick protection and provides amazing protection for outdoor applications.

"...It works great and it's very durable ." Read more

"One quart size. While this varnish is really good and will protect some home wooden products that I have, the can was packaged poorly and it was..." Read more

"...finish has a wonderful luster, has dried very hard and has a very durable feel to it. And the finished product looks very, very nice." Read more

Customers have mixed opinions about the value for money of the varnish. Some mention it's worth every penny, while others say it'll be a costly mistake.

"...However, this is a very expensive product . Lust also came recommended highly, so we tried it as a possible alternative...." Read more

"... Worth every penny and I chose it because it was the highest rated on some website." Read more

"...This is pretty expensive varnish so it was a little disappointing to spend over $250 and get beat up product. Thankfully they did not explode." Read more

"...came leaking inside plastic bag..1 Oz leaked out..it's all good.. worth the money 💰..." Read more

Customers have mixed opinions about the thickness of the varnish. Some mention it's super thick, while others say it'll be thinned and work with.

"This is a thick Marine Varnish . The varnish will dry in about 1 hour. You can sand the first coat that will dry in one hour...." Read more

"...but look at the results. It is work, but that is varnish. Varnishes are thick and I had long fry times because where I live it never stops raining..." Read more

"...Worked perfect. Would recommend. Its very thick , will last you if thinned." Read more

"...With this product being so thick , put it on thin as you can, let it dry completely, sand 320 grit. And then recoat over and over...." Read more

Customers are dissatisfied with the dent resistance of the household varnish. They mention it's easy to damage and crack. Some say the finish doesn't last long when exposed to the sun and starts peeling off.

"...still looks great today but a couple areas are checking and the varnish has cracked . The drawback.. each coat takes a day to cure...." Read more

"...that I have, the can was packaged poorly and it was severely dented upon arrival . Still usable, but the can will not sit vertical." Read more

"...Box and packaging for both orders was undamaged, but content was dented ...." Read more

"Another item damaged when shipped. The can had a dent in it . Box it came in was fine. Good thing it didn't leak!" Read more

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Yacht Varnish Trade

Adds tough, long lasting protection to wood, preventing fading, cracking or peeling. Our fastest drying heavy duty solvent varnish.

• Our fastest drying solvent varnish
• Rainproof in 4 hours
• Recoat in 8 hours
• Lasting protection
• Stops wood fading
• Use on all exterior smooth planed wood
• Lasting Protection

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How much varnish do I need?

Measure your area precisely, drop the numbers into this smart calculator and it will tell you straight away how many litres you'll need to complete your project.

Up to 8m2 per litre

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How to use Yacht Varnish

Sand the wood using 120 grit paper. Wear a mask to avoid inhaling any dust. Wipe away dust with white spirit and leave to dry. Don't use in temperatures lower than 10°C. Stir well before use and test on a small area to check you are happy with the finish. 

Use a brush and apply 3 thin coats in the direction of the grain. Leave 8 hours between each coat and lightly sand using 240 grit paper before the final coat.

Remove any varnish from your brush and wash with white spirit. Don't put any left over varnish down the drain or into watercourses. Your local authority may have facilities to get rid of unused varnish.

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Home products, yacht varnish.

Product description:

High durability, Clear Gloss Yacht Varnish. 

A tough, top-quality varnish with a high gloss finish. Protects against cracking and flaking caused by UV light. Also provides complete and long-lasting protection under testing weather conditions. Suitable for exterior and interior applications. Ideal for use on boats, doors, window frames, garden furniture and many other items, especially in a marine or exposed environment.

• Drying time:  6 hours
• Coverage:  14m² per litre.

Sizes:  1 Litre, 2.5 Litre

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Painted area:

Volume: 0.2 Litres

Coverage per litre: 13M²

Number of tins needed: 1

Sadolin Yacht Varnish

• For windows, doors and conservatories
• Enhance the natural colour and beauty of wood
• Traditional varnish with added UV protection
• Highly durable, resists peeling and flaking

The colours shown on this website may not match exactly with the end result. The availability of colours shown vary depending upon product size. Sadolin cannot be held responsible for any variations between product and swatches shown.

Description

Sadolin Yacht Varnish is a traditional clear varnish used to build a durable, high gloss finish. With a High Gloss finish, Sadolin Yacht Varnish has been formulated with a completely clear formulation – ideal to enhance the natural beauty and colour of wood. Developed by our wood care experts with protective UV additives, our premium formulation protects against damaging UV light, providing long lasting protection that resists peeling and flaking with its high-build protective barrier.

Additional Information

Painted area: 7.50 sq. Meters

No of Coats:

Drying time:.

• Touch Dry: 4 - 6 hours
• Re-coat: 16-24 hours

Pack sizes available:

Application:.

Apply by brush

How to guides

This Is Sadolin – Episode 1 – Preparation Is Everything

This Is Sadolin – Episode 2 – ‘Classic And Extra – Joined Up For Joinery’

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• Boat Maintenance

The Best Marine Varnish: Exterior Wood Finish Tests

Two-part varnishes leading in durability as long-term test reaches 24-month mark..

Like spotting land after a long passage, were glad to say that the end of our long-term exterior wood finishes test is finally on the horizon. Time, weather, and Southwest Floridas unrelenting sunshine have clearly taken their toll on the test panels over the last 24 months, and as the evaluation moves into its third year, only 19 of the original 54 test products will continue on in our survival-of-the fittest finish matchup. Given that most wood coatings are rarely expected to last longer than two years in the marine environment-particularly in super-sunny locales-its no surprise that we’ve seen more significant changes in the coatings in the last six months than we had in previous checkups.

Our search for the ideal wood finish-relatively easy to apply, easy to maintain, lasts multiple seasons, and is affordable-began in 2007 when we took a look at the different types of exterior wood finishes on the market, their pros and cons, and how easy they were to apply ( one-part varnishes , August 2007; varnish alternatives , October 2007; two-part varnishes , December 2007; teak oils and stains , April 2008). Launched in 2008, the long-term panel test aimed to determine which type of coating offers the best and longest protection and which products stand out among their peers.

We hope the comparison enables readers to decide which finish best matches their own taste, potential labor investment, and wood protection needs.

We’ve rated the test products every six months and reported on the coatings durability in the May 2009 issue ( six-month checkup ), December 2009 issue ( 12 months ), and January 2011 ( 18 months ) issues. Here, we offer the two-year report on the survivors.

How We’re Testing the Marine Varnishes

Testers applied dozens of exterior wood finishes (22 one-part varnishes, six two-part varnishes, 18 synthetics and satins/varnish alternatives, and eight teak oils and sealers) to small panels of bare solid teak. Each was assigned a number for blind judging and was applied per manufacturers instructions. If makers gave a range for the number of coats to apply, testers went with the minimum.

Initial testing rated each products ease of application and original gloss and reflective qualities. In the summer of 2008, the test panels were mounted on a wooden rack (aka: The Rack), which was set up in an unobstructed area on the roof of the PS workshop in Sarasota, Fla., to ensure that all panels received the same amount of weather exposure. The top part of each panel was covered to create a control area that testers used for comparison over time. Every six months, we disassembled The Rack and rated the panels on how well their coating integrity, gloss, and color had fared over time with constant exposure to the elements.

The test was designed as an endurance test, a fight to the finish, so we have not done any maintenance coats or touch-ups to the test panels. These products can be expected to have much longer lifespans if they are regularly maintained.

How We’re Rating the Marine Varnishes

Testers rate each panel on three long-term performance criteria: coating integrity, gloss retention, and color retention. Excellent and Good coating integrity ratings mean that no maintenance is needed; a Fair indicates that its time for a maintenance coat; Poor means the fat lady has sung, and the coating would need to be removed and re-applied. Excellent ratings are given only to those with an uncompromised coating. This time, panels with Poor and Fair- coating integrity were pulled from the test.

Color and gloss retention ratings are relative to the panels original finish. Initial gloss and ease of application are relative to the field within each coating category; these were assigned immediately after the panels were coated.

It was tougher to pick Recommended coatings at the two-year mark, as most wood finishes aren’t intended to go that long without maintenance. One-part varnishes that earned PSs recommendation this go-round were rated Fair for coating integrity (none rated better than Fair ) and had no Poor ratings. Recommended two-part systems rated Good or better for coating integrity with no Poor ratings. No varnish alternatives or teak oils/sealers were recommended at two years.

VALUE GUIDE: Varnish Alternatives

What We Found

What a difference a season makes! With the exception of a few two-part products, the test coatings had lost their sparkle at the two-year mark. Ratings slipped across the board. The UV abuse had obviously taken its toll, sucking the life out of most of the coatings, particularly the clear finishes.

Those clinging to life with Fair coating integrity are still protecting the wood, but they’ve lost their looks. In the real world, all of the one-part varnish and varnish alternative test panels would be due for a maintenance coat, and some-like HMG K Type Varnish, West Marine WoodPro Plus (rebranded Epifanes Rapidclear), and Ace Spar Varnish-would be overdue.

The biggest overall decline was within the one-part varnish test group: Not a single one rated better than Fair for coating integrity or gloss retention, and nearly half of the test field was retired after this rating round. Just six months before, eight of the 19 products rated Good for coating integrity and six rated Good for gloss retention. In 12 months, seven dropped from an Excellent coating integrity to a Fair.

The one-part varnishes offering the most protection after two years are Detco Crystal, Le Tonkinois Vernis, and Pettits Z-Spar Captains 2067. However, their extended protection comes with tradeoffs: Detco rated only Fair for application, Le Tonks gloss started to slip after one year, and Pettits 2067 started losing its original color after 12 months.

One hardware store varnish has surprisingly held its own over the long haul: Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. At half the cost of the Recommended one-part varnishes, Minwax slacked in the color retention department, but it has proven its multi-season durability.

Four of the nine varnish alternatives have been voted off The Rack after two years, and none performed well enough to earn our recommendation for two-year wood protection.

The Cetol products are still at the head of the pack, albeit a somewhat mangy-looking pack. The cloudy, opaque look of the Cetol Marine and Marine Light products may not appeal to everyone, but the fact they’ve maintained their color for more than a year is a good example that higher-solids finishes tend to offer better UV protection.

The Cetol Natural (with gloss) test panel fell from a Good coating integrity six months ago to being dropped from testing. Its performance mirrors what we’ve seen in the field: Give it a little loving once a year with a scrubby pad and a fresh coat, and it’ll last the long haul.

Its taken two years, but the two-part varnishes are finally starting to show their age. Surprisingly, the first products to be dropped from this group are two that performed well in past PS tests: Bristol Finish and Honey Teak. This is likely because the life of a wood finish in Florida is always going to be shorter than in our past test locales in New England.

The other two-parts are still holding up well, with Interlux Perfection and Nautiking Nautithane offering uncompromised protection and better-than-expected gloss after 24 months. Perfection has been reformulated since the test began and is now sold as Perfection Plus.

The temporarily discontinued (since 2009) Smiths Five Year Clear has also proven to be a top-notch finish, but its not available at this time.

While HMG Acrythane XSC didn’t earn our Recommendation this time, it was a top 18-month finish, it still looks good, and it costs less than the Nautithane.

Conclusions About Exterior Varnishes

After two years of testing, we’ve come to accept that perhaps there’s no Holy Grail of exterior wood finishes. It would appear, unfortunately, that we can’t have it all: easy to apply, easy to maintain, long-lasting protection, and a budget-friendly price tag. The reality is that, like much in life, wood protection is all about compromise and balancing your needs with your wants.

There’s no one-size-fits-all solution, and the boat owner who finds gratification in the wet, glossy look of a two-part varnish borne of painstaking preparation and careful application will weigh our test data much differently than the one who regards brightwork maintenance as a masochistic endeavor. For the latter, we recommend seeking out a varnish alternative (easy to apply, easy to maintain) that suits your tastes. With modest maintenance, the Cetol products with gloss overcoats have proven to be the most durable.

For areas where slippery-when-wet coatings wont do, Cetol Natural (without gloss overcoat) or our top-pick teak oil, Star brites Tropical Teak Sealer (classic teak) should be considered. The Star brite will need to be reapplied every three or four months.

If you’re looking for a harder, more abrasion-resistant finish that’ll make it past the year mark, check out the top one-part varnishes like Detco Crystal or Pettits Z-Spar Captains 2067. Boat owners in sailing areas that see less sunshine than our Florida test site should also consider Pettits Flagship 2015 or Captains 1015. One-part varnishes require a little more work upfront and quick attention when they are scratched or dinged, but they also offer a more traditional, high-gloss look. The one-part varnishes in our test slipped dramatically after a year and half, so we suggest an annual maintenance coat, whether they look like they need it or not.

As this test has shown, when it comes to long-lasting protection and gloss, two-part varnishes just can’t be beat. They may be a pain to apply-and should you let the coating fail, you had better invest in a heat gun-but their durability is unmatched.

The top two-part after two years of testing was Interlux Perfection. Because we’ve not yet tested the reformulated Perfection, the top pick honors go to Nautikings Nautithane. While its price tag ($120 per quart kit) is a bit hard for most of us to swallow, Nautithane earned across-the-board Good ratings after two years.

Practical Sailor often supplements panel testing with product challenges aboard our test boats to see whether top products still earn their keep in the real world and to try out new products. Two such evaluations are our exterior wood finish tests.

In the January 2011 issue, we introduced a head-to-head matchup of varnish alternatives—market-newcomer PolyWhey from Vermont Natural Coatings versus perennial favorite Interlux’s Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak—that had been applied to our Cape Dory 25 test boat. For that test, we’ve just let nature run its course: no band-aid touchups, no maintenance coats, no freshwater rinses, no TLC at all.

Comparatively, we’ve been testing Cetol Natural aboard our Chesapeake Bay-based Union 36 test boat, where it was laid on with the Cetol gloss overcoat in 2008; in this evaluation, testers have applied annual maintenance coats and given the coating regular TLC. Here’s the latest on both of these tests:

PolyWhey vs. Cetol Death Match

In the fall of 2010, testers applied three coats of Caspian Clear PolyWhey to the coamings and companionway trim on the Cape Dory, which is sailed several times a week and lives on a mooring in Sarasota Bay, Fla. We also applied Cetol Natural to the boat’s toerail, and previously had applied it to the tiller and forward hatch trim.

PolyWhey is a unique wood finish that uses whey protein, a by-product of the cheesemaking process, as a binder. It’s touted as a more eco-friendly and more sustainable coating than petroleum-based polyurethanes, which can have up to 75 percent more volatile organic compounds (VOCs).

Consistently among the top varnish alternatives in PS’s tests, Cetol Natural is not as muddy-looking as its predecessors, Cetol Marine Light and Cetol Marine—like the Caspian Clear, it allows the wood’s natural grain to show and has a low gloss.

As far as application, both the Cetol and PolyWhey are quick and easy to apply, with much shorter recoat times than hard varnishes and less (or no) sanding between coats. The main difference that we found in these two finishes was with durability.

The PolyWhey turned out to be a much softer coating than the Cetol. It held up for about two months, but after three months, it was in need of a recoat, and at six months, it needed a total takedown—and Cetol had emerged as the death-match victor.

The PolyWhey on the coaming was the first to go: Where crew backs often lean against the wood, the finish was all but gone after four months. The PolyWhey on the companionway slides held on for about that long, but by six months, they were ready for a do-over as well.

The Cetol on the toerail was in need of a few touchups after six months, mostly in areas where fenders and docklines came in contact with it. But the tiller and hatch trim were still fairly well-protected almost a year after application. Although we’d recommend a maintenance coat at this point, testers plan to see how many more months we can eek out of the coating before we reach the point of no return.

Bottom line : We applaud VNC’s efforts to offer a “green” wood finish—and their creative recycling of dairy industry “trash”—but we can’t recommend it over Cetol for an exterior coating in the marine environment.

Cetol with Overcoat

Testers applied three coats of Cetol Natural with Cetol Marine Gloss overcoat to the Union in March 2008. Once a year, we scuff it up with a 3M pad, give it a freshwater rinse, and brush on a maintenance coat.

Compared to a clear, glossy varnish, it looks decent and the maintenance regimen is more realistic for our tastes and available time. However, one downside to softer, varnish alternative coatings—even those with an overcoat—is that they don’t stand up as well as hard finishes to dings and abrasion. Example: The Union’s toerail has one place in need of touching-up where a fender line wore away the finish. (See photo above.)

Bottom line : The Cetol Natural with overcoat has held up very well. While applying the topcoat may mean added effort, both our panel tests and test-boat evaluations have shown that the coating will last much longer and need fewer bandaids if the soft Cetol is protected with the semi-hard topcoat.

Teak oils and other naturally based finishes like PolyWhey, need maintenance coats every few months. Their chemical cousins, however, like Cetol, have proven they can offer good protection with only annual nurturing and the occasional touchup.

• C-Tech Marine (Bristol)
• Deft Finishes
• Le Tonkinois
• Premapro (Coelan)
• Signature Finishes
• Smith’s Five Year Clear
• Vermont Natural Coatings
• West Marine
• Woodplus Marine

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

18 comments.

I’m surprised you didnt include Alwood from Awlgrip

Search Awlwood on the website. We have a couple reports. October 2014 (chandlery), and June 2015 issues. Download the PDFs, because the tables haven’t been loaded online yet. It is broadly comparable to Sikkens Cetol.

opps, Awlwood not alwood

All very interesting……The “bottom line” is just flush the line in fresh water.

Thank you for the great info. I am going order year of Practical Sailor.

What is your opinion of covering a 2 part varnish with a one part?

It is certainly a comprehensive test. I’ve taken the journey of sticking with one of your “good” one part varnishes, Epiphanes Wood Finish gloss 10 coats with Epiphanes final two matte finishes. I’ve been quite impressed with it over the past 8 years on both my Cape Dory Typhoon and my Alberg 30. My conclusion is, read your directions carefully and be patient through all phases of application. Teak requires a caregiver! Great read especially during this pandemic period.

Great review. Your test is useful for me because I want to buy but dont know which product is the best. I must say that I like all of those mentioned above and price is really cheap. It’s always good to hear other input.

You missed out Pettit’s Gold, a water-based varnish. I have used it, and it’s great. For long life? Too soon to tell. Cetol has mostly been a disaster, especially with the Gloss overcoat. Applying Cetol can be tantamount to vandalism.

That’s really nice post. I appreciate your skills. Thanks for sharing.

Did you continue with testing to date, I am after a product that want yellow or bloom because of constant direct sunlight. I am in the North West of Australia where the temp at it’s coolest is 30+ Celsius for a couple of months and peeks over 50 + Celsius for a lot more than the couple of cooler months.

I use Rust-Oleum 207008 Spar Varnish. So much better than those water-based varnishes. This stuff protects almost forever. We used to use this kind of spar varnish in the Navy to protect the woodwork exposed to salty air.

The Interlux Varnish became my favorite varnish on teak fixtures when I tried it out 2 years ago. This is because of the immense difference it makes in the way it lends my pulpit or anything made of teak with a sophisticated, good-as-new finish.

It’s strange that you call out Pettit Z-Spar Captains 2067 as a top performer in the conclusions, but it’s not shown in the chart. Those Pettit products that are included in the chart don’t appear to be top performers. I’m confused.

After less than a year the Bristol finish I used on my boat looks terrible and will have to be removed. The folks at Bristol are absolutely no help at all. Their disclaimer is that they know nothing about boats. I most strongly advise against using this product for marine application. I have photos taken immediately after application, two months after, and eight months after if anyone is interested. By the way, the problem manifested on well prepped old teak and well prepped new teak. Could have just been a bad batch of finish but as I said, the folks at Bristol were no help. I ADVISE AGAINST USING BRISTOL FOR MARINE APPLICATIONS

I’m certain that the analysis of marine varnish was expensive and time consuming but one area that could benefit many subscribers if it was conducted continuously. Practical Sailor is the only place that I can rely on for accurate, up-to-date information on the products I need and use.

This is an important maintenance topic to me. Maintaining brightwork is a lot of labor. This article was last updated in June 2020. I would appreciate an update. I have been using Epifanes clear high gloss varnish for the last five seasons. It gives a good finish but it needs to be touched up one a year even though my boat is under cover for six months of the year. I sail on Lake Erie.

Hi Darryl, I’ve been reading about the new clear wood finishes that are UV cured for furniture. They often topcoat with a “nano” finish. Is this new technology suitable for the marine environment? It sounds too good to be true, easy application, no waiting time, resists scratching… Thanks

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What’s the Best Varnish for Your Yacht?

Looking for the  best yacht insurance ? Buy your  sailing yacht insurance  online at Admiral Marine, or contact our expert team for advice.

Varnishing your yacht is an essential part of its care and maintenance. The benefits are twofold: yacht varnish protects your boat from the elements, while also giving it a beautiful shiny finish. But with so many different yacht and marine varnishes to choose from, it can be difficult to know which one is best for your boat.

In this article, we’ll run through some of the most popular types of yacht varnish on the market to help you choose the right option.

What is Yacht Varnish?

Yacht varnish is an extremely durable solvent-based coating that is designed to protect the wood that yachts are made of and stop it decaying over time. Most varnishes are made up of a penetrating oil, resin and solvent. Although most yacht varnish is applied with a brush, it is possible to buy yacht varnish spray.

Different Types of Yacht Varnish Finish

There are many different types of finish to choose from, so you’ll need to know a little about them to decide which is the best yacht varnish for you.

Designed by Freepik https://www.freepik.com/

Yacht Varnish Brands

There are various brands that produce yacht varnish. Here are a couple of the most popular:

Screwfix Yacht Varnish

Screwfix is a retailer in the UK that sells a variety of products, including hardware and building supplies. They may carry different brands and types of yacht varnish. Yacht varnish provides resistance to water, UV rays, and other environmental elements. Yacht varnishes often contain additives to enhance their durability and performance in marine conditions.

Ronseal Yacht Varnish

A durable, long-lasting marine varnish for wood that flexes with the movement of the wood and resists peeling and cracking. This varnish is slightly more pricey than the Screwfix varnish, but gets great reviews. You can buy the Ronseal brand of yacht varnish in B&Q and other retailers.

How to Varnish Your Yacht

Varnishing a yacht is fairly straightforward, if a little time-consuming. First you’ll need to carefully sand down the entire surface that you want to varnish to get it looking smooth. Then use a soft brush to wipe off any excess dust and debris, since you don’t want it getting trapped in the varnish.

Finally, use a paintbrush to coat the yacht with varnish. Leave it to dry for the recommended amount of time on the tin, then apply additional coats as required. Always check the instructions of your varnish type, and if unsure consult with an expert before starting.

Yacht varnish is solvent-based and contains toxic chemicals, which means it should not be used for varnishing animal enclosures (for example, rabbit hutches or reptile enclosures).

• What is yacht varnish used for? Yacht varnish is used for sealing and protecting wood on boats and yachts. It is also commonly used for outdoor items such as wooden doors, window frames or pergolas.
• What type of varnish is yacht varnish? Yacht varnish is a solvent-based outdoor varnish that is extremely durable. It is usually made up of tung oil and polyurethane resin. 
• What is the best varnish to use on a boat? The type of varnish that is best for your boat will depend on the type of wood your boat is made from and the finish you are looking for. Tung oil varnish is a safe bet for most boats, or you may prefer to use a one-part polyurethane varnish for added durability.
• What is the difference between yacht varnish and outdoor varnish? In general, yacht varnish dries quicker and is designed for marine conditions, so it’s likely to be more durable than outdoor varnish. However, yacht varnish is unlikely to have an anti-slip formulation, making it unsuitable for decking around the home.

Admiral Marine is a trading name of Admiral Marine Limited which is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (FRN 306002) for general insurance business. Registered in England and Wales Company No. 02666794 at 1st Floor, One The Square, Temple Quay, Bristol, BS1 6DG

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What You Need To Know About Buying Yacht Varnish

Yacht / Marine Varnish Plays An Important Role

Yacht Varnish is key to keeping your boat exterior in great condition. When it comes to owning a yacht, there are many exciting factors that will factor into your decision. From the layout and amenities to the style and aesthetic, there are numerous things that play into owning a yacht.

However, for many people, one of the most important factors is the look and feel of the boat. When you own a yacht, it’s essential to take care of it so that it remains in great condition for years to come.

A big part of caring for your yacht involves making sure you have all the necessary supplies on board.

A little bit of history on the origin of Yachts:

The word yacht itself was first utilized in Dutch back in the 16th century and said like “jacht” Dutch people were among the innovators of modern recreational sailing. They chased pirates and enemies on fast yachts while dominating the seas.

Nowadays, Yachts are not just for the rich but are used by many for recreational sailing. You can even rent a luxury yacht for a special occasion or date to enjoy with your friends and family. Yachts are available for sale online, a fully crewed yacht can be rented for a few thousand pounds!

Questions & Answers:

Is there an alternative to tin yacht varnish.

Yes, we have specifically formulated an Aerosol version, clear gloss. This is helpful for smaller areas that you need to coat. It can also be used for all types of external wood for protection. Find this product here: https://www.palatinepaints.co.uk/product/yacht-varnish-clear-gloss-for-exterior-wood-aerosol-spray

How long does yacht varnish take to dry?

Varnish depends on the varnish humidity and temperature, as well as on whether you want it to dry before things get cold and humid late in the day. You would like to be dust-free for a couple of hours so that the varnish gets dry enough that it won’t pick up dust.

Our Yacht varnish is surface dry in 2 hours with a hard dry in 8.

Is it possible to Varnish over existing varnish without sanding?

It is possible to varnish over the existing finish, but it is not recommended. You may experience adhesion issues because you don’t know what the base clear coat is or whether it is compatible with varnishes, even if you were able to determine it.

You must clean and wipe down the surface with mineral spirits and lacquer thinner on dampened cotton cloths before varnishing. Finally, you must sand the surface lightly.

What is the Purpose of Yacht Varnish?

Varnish is a protective coating that is applied to the surface of your boat to help protect it from the elements and against staining. While you may not be able to prevent your boat from being scratched or scraped as it is in regular use, using varnish can prevent your boat from getting stained.

This is especially true of the areas that are used the most like the table, the floors, and the walls. In addition to protecting your boat, varnish also helps your boat look even better. With a smooth and shiny surface, your boat will look more attractive and stylish than ever before.

Our Yacht varnish doesn’t just have to be limited to your Yacht though, It has many uses such as being applied on pieces of furniture, entrance doors and musical instruments.

An overview of the benefits of using our Marine Yacht Varnish

• It provides excellent adhesion to wood and impregnates the material’s surface instantly, adhering to the wood structure for a long time and having a long-lasting effect.
• UV radiation is absorbed and converted into heat by special components present in yacht varnish, making the sun’s almost negligible effect on the material protective film intact.
• The varnish protecting boats from UV radiation contains special compounds that absorb and convert ultraviolet light into heat, protecting the protective coating from degradation. This minimizes the sun’s adverse effects.
• The material is resistant to abrasion and wear thanks to the coating. The film protects the coating from scratches and chips in this case.
• No chemical reactions occur when wiping the surface using household chemicals, if necessary. Acids, alkalis, and salts do not cause a reaction.

Why does your yacht need varnish?

Just like any other boat, your yacht needs to be protected with varnish. This protective coating is applied to the surfaces of your boat to prevent it from being stained and water damaged, it keeps out moisture and as mentioned in the benefits above, it provides you with a high level of UV protection . In addition to keeping your boat in great condition, varnish also makes your boat look more attractive.

With our high gloss varnish, it creates a quality finish that is smooth and shiny.

If you own a Yacht and want to keep the wood in great condition, you’ll be needing to apply several coats of Yacht varnish but the results would be fantastic, one that you would love to show off. Palatine Paints have spend years testing and applying all of our paints to ensure we reach the highest level of quality possible, our Yacht varnish has glowing reviews which allows our product to speak for itself.

Yacht Varnish Interior & Exterior

From £ 12.95 Incl. VAT From £ 10.79 Excl. VAT

Palatine Yacht Varnish is a tough, traditional varnish for new, previously painted, stained or varnished surfaces.  Its quality and high gloss finish means it’s perfect for yachts, boats and other exterior wood projects.

Also available in an aerosol .

Yacht Varnish Spray – Clear Gloss Aerosol

From £ 8.14 Incl. VAT From £ 6.78 Excl. VAT

A tough varnish in a handy spray can for quick and easy use. Not just for yachts and boats, but all sorts of exterior uses.

• Protects new, previously painted, stained and varnished surfaces
• Extremely durable – resists cracking and blistering
• High gloss finish spray
• Also available in a tin format

One thought on “ What You Need To Know About Buying Yacht Varnish ”

is this varnish white inside the tin. jd

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The Best Marine Varnishes

Written by J. Harvey / Fact checked by S. Numbers

Let’s face it, we don’t give as much credit to the almost perfect combination of boats and varnishes. After all, vessels aren’t exactly cheap. They aren’t immune to deterioration as well. If there’s one solid way for you to preserve the life of your investment and even take her beauty up a notch, wouldn’t you seize it?

For my part, I can wholeheartedly say that these varnishes are great investments, especially if we’re talking about the best marine varnish. These concoctions go beyond their practical benefits, lending anything made of wood with a nice finish that only unlocks and magnifies their natural exquisiteness.

I can say as much for the products I’ve featured here. They have given me noteworthy, if not outstanding, results that make the others I’ve tried in my more than ten years of boating and fishing pale in comparison.

• Great finish
• Easy to use
• Great value for money

• Superb satin finish
• High gloss protection
• Very versatile varnish

• Easy to apply
• Excellent UV protection

Table of Contents

1. Rust-Oleum 207008 Marine Spar Varnish

2. totalboat gleam marine spar varnish, 3. epifanes cv.500 clear varnish, 4. mccloskey 7509 man o’war spar marine varnish, 5. totalboat 482869 lust marine varnish, 6. epifanes wfm.500 wood finish matte, 7. minwax 63200444 helmsman spar urethane, 8. interlux iva316/qt cetol natural teak varnish, 9. mccloskey 7505 man o’ war spar varnish, 10. pettit marine paint flagship varnish 2015, 11. system three 1855s16 marine spar varnish, 12. duralux m738-1 spar varnish, 13. old masters 153617 spar marine varnish, factors to consider when choosing marine varnish, what is the best marine varnish, what is the difference between spar varnish and marine barnish, how do you apply marine varnish to wood, how long will marine varnish last, is marine spar varnish waterproof, best marine varnish reviews.

If I’m going for all-around reliability and protection from sun and moisture damage, I’d choose this varnish in a heartbeat.

This is my go-to varnish for anything wood found in my sailboat. Whether it’s furniture or railing or sometimes even the bow, I often get the kind of maintainability I want every time I use this. The finish is no less attractive and only gets glittery over time in a number of my past applications.

Thinned up to around 30%, it dries quickly enough to apply multiple coats in a day. Sometimes I go for as low as 20%, down to even 5%. It’s because thinning too much does tend to backfire and lead to the varnish taking a long time to dry. It’s easy to use with everything considered.

If you want the best results, I’ve found that using a fresh foam brush with every coat would result in optimal smoothness. It may seem like a waste, buying multiple brushes, but the results are unrivaled, to say the least. I’ve had applications that lasted for a good 3 years before I needed to refinish them.

• Excellent UV and water protection
• More affordable but with high-end results
• Low shelf life

This varnish smoothly combines ease of use, beautiful finishes, and above-average durability. The winning formula for successful marine finishes for wood, in short.

This varnish is versatile in that it leaves plenty of routes open for you to take. For one, I like that they give you plenty of freedom when choosing the shine you want. It’s also available in different sizes, so I always get to buy only the proportions I deem fit for a specific project.

I have to be partial to the satin finish, though, since it delivers the exquisite luster I like to see in my indoor boat furniture and fixtures like railings. However, I always make sure to apply a high-gloss varnish if I’m working on anything that has to be exposed to the sun for long hours. That being said, I like that this product gives you both satin and gloss options.

I make sure to apply the high-gloss varnish as a topcoat, and I’ve gotten excellent results, mostly 1 to 2 years of unblemished finishes, with this practice. Sometimes, it’s shorter than that, especially on wooden areas that are more exposed to the elements. Yet, it’s protection you normally expect and can get from high-gloss varnish. In addition, it’s a varnish that’s also noticeably on the thin side, so I kind of get that it wears away faster than thicker varieties.

• Uncomplicated to apply
• Has multiple sheen and size options
• Not as durable as others

Another safe option, Epifanes marine spar varnish is anything but average with its status as a crowd favorite. Expect superior finish and durability if you choose this.

This varnish easily earns a spot here, considering its unchanging and undeniably positive reputation among boaters. Simply put, it’s hard to fault because of the wonderful results it can bring. The shiny, attractive gloss that has the Epifanes trademark is rarely surpassed by other marine-grade varnishes in my opinion.

What’s equally neat is that it’s not difficult to apply. You don’t really need to sand it with every coat, unlike the majority of other brands out there, but I still suggest you do it, especially in the later coatings. I recommend using marine spirits as a thinner with a 2:1 ratio, and take the time to pour it through a strainer to guarantee a smooth finish. At best, you’ll have to set 5 to 7 days of gradual coating to get the kind of attractive finish you want; and I mean capital-A attractive.

As in other great exterior varnishes, this product is an example to follow when imparting UV protection. At least, that’s what I think is primarily responsible for the excellent finish and the overall durability. I use this as much on my sailboat’s wood portions above the waterline and furniture as well as furnishings in my home, and the finish often lasts for 2 years on average.

• Amazing shine and finish
• Takes a while to dry
• Short shelf life

McCloskey’s Man O’War spar varnish is durable, to an almost no-brainer degree. It’s what I buy if I want to get the best out of what spar varnish offers to the average boater.

Despite its relatively hard finish, spar varnish tends to wear out faster than urethane. It’s a natural thing, so I won’t bother to list it as a con. You can’t mimic the deep amber tint, caramelization, and versatility of good old spar varnish, and this brand delivers no less than that trio of perks.

If I’m going to name a worthy brand representative of spar varnishes, I’d promptly pick this one. It adheres excellently to any kind of wood, so I generously slather any wooden fixture in my boat with this once I get a hold of a bottle.

While it’s easy to use, you’d better be prepared to invest time working with this varnish. I use mineral spirits for thinning, and I make sure to apply thin coats, starting from the middle, using a mini roller and a brush, mohair and ox hair respectively. I sand in between coats, and overall it takes time since it dries slowly.

The durability stems a lot from the outstanding UV protection. My sailboat’s wooden bow that has this finish has been battered by rain a good number of times already, and it’s still holding up after a year since the initial application. Since it’s effortless to apply, I just sand and recoat every once in a while.

• Outstanding UV protection
• Adheres to most types of wood
• Classic, eye-catching spar varnish finish
• Slow-drying
• Limited availability

TotalBoat is a household name in the marine industry as far as paints and varnishes go. This is the brand’s best offering if we’re going to consider fundamental factors like durability, shine, and value for money.

I need to stress outright that this varnish is extra thick, almost honey-like. If you don’t thin it out to at least 50%, you’ll only end up grappling with it to less than desirable results. It’s not exactly beginner-friendly with that considered, but it does pay off since you get optimal protection and the kind of shine any boat owner would be proud of.

Speaking of the finish, it begins to shine through once you hit the one-year mark. At least, that’s what I get from most of the vessels and furniture I apply it to. I can say that it’s smooth sailing once you take the time to know the right consistency.

I often use a roller and apply 5 coats then do a recoat after 2 hours in a whole day. Ideally, the last two coats should only be thinned by about 10% only. It might get tricky applying it then but, trust me, you’ll get the hang of it.

I get the results I want within a day or two — or more at times during less than optimal humidities and temperatures. Even so, that’s obviously quicker than handling traditional varnish, which takes weeks to settle. I do acknowledge the thinner’s role in helping with the drying time.

• Excellent shine and finish
• Proven durability
• Becomes easy to use with practice
• Quick-drying

If we’re talking about top-of-the-line, marine-grade durability, this one deserves to be called the best marine wood finish.

This is my favorite to use on teak because of its proven waterproof capabilities and the fact that its satin finish has just the right amount of sheen, for me, at least. It brings out the beauty of the teak and almost any wood I apply it to, for that matter, and this is coming from someone who has tried numerous marine-grade varnish before. I’ve had furniture that managed to maintain its finish for an impressive 5 years with the help of this varnish.

It’s a bit of a challenge to apply. It actually flows well enough as it is, and I rarely have to thin it with every application. However, you have to make sure that you apply it evenly with every coat and oftentimes as quickly as possible. Once I get patchy and bubbly results, that’s the only time I thin it, and I sand after the first coat, totaling up to 3 coats on average. It will dry more slowly if I thin it, though.

• Excellent durability
• Nice satin finish
• Flows smoothly without thinning
• Brings out the beauty of the wood extremely well
• Fairly cost-effective
• Not beginner-friendly

Though not marine-grade, Minwax has proven to be just as durable as many products with that label. It’s very easy to use and delivers just the right amount of shine.

I often use this on my sailboat’s furniture, and if left with no other options, even the wooden exterior of the hull and bow. It goes well with canoes, but I only tend to apply it on the ribs, rudder, and planking. While not marine-grade, it’s great for outdoor furniture, and, to me, that’s always a good sign of heavy-duty UV protection.

If I want to reinforce the protection, I only need to apply more layers, 4 coats at most but not less than 2. I’ve only used it on oak-made fixtures, though, and I get the longevity and finish I want with that kind of simple setup. The varnish lasts up to 1 to 2 years before recoating becomes necessary, with minor peeling only appearing after a year based on my experience.

I like that they give you plenty of options with regards to sheen and container sizes. I prefer satin for my interior furniture. I once made the mistake of not mixing it well and got a result that’s almost similar to high gloss. To avoid this, you need to make sure you mix it for a good 5 minutes and scrape the sides and bottoms of the can as you do so. This guarantees the soft shine you’re aiming for.

• Plenty of sheen and size options
• Decent durability
• Dries quickly
• Not exactly marine-grade

This varnish earns my thumbs up with the kind of inimitable finish it can deliver and its relatively easy application.

This has since become my favorite varnish on teak fixtures when I tried it out 2 years ago. This is because of the immense difference it makes in the way it lends my pulpit or anything made of teak with a sophisticated, good-as-new finish. It’s not overly glossy, which I attribute to the “natural teak” claim, and only darkens the wood a tad so it will still maintain its natural hues.

I’m glad it didn’t cause any yellowing, and after my second application, I can still say the same. It has a runny consistency that merits forgoing thinning on the first coat. I like to use a brush when applying it to have better control over coverage, which is great enough as it is, and all I can say is that I’ll apply this to my boat’s bow and rails the moment they start showing signs of wear.

Nonetheless, it would be pushing it to say that it’s as durable as the other varnishes here. It only took a year before my bow showed signs of peels and cracks. However, after I applied a single maintenance coat on the entire thing, I found that it limited or delayed the damage since I’ve yet to see signs again after doing a recoating. That being said, I suggest applying a fresh layer at least once a year to make the most out of this marine varnish for boats.

• Outstanding finish
• No sanding and thinning required in most cases
• Good coverage
• Minimal darkening
• Well worth the money
• A bit pricey
• Not durable

Budget-friendly, reliable, and just as good as other solid brands, this McCluskey varnish is a must for anyone choosing to go for value for money all the way.

The fact that this varnish can give you outstanding satin finishes and superb durability without going overboard in cost should give you a ready hint why a lot of boaters are shifting to this product. When I say superb durability, I mean thick coatings that you’ll be confident will last for years.

In my case, the minimum is 3 years on all my wood projects, boat bows, railings, and furniture included. You may start seeing peels and scratches here and there, as evidenced by the 7-year-old canoe that I refurbished 3 years ago. But, to me, it’s still none the worse for wear and nothing a minor recoating job won’t remedy.

The finish is not unlike the ones I get from the other varnishes mentioned here. It accentuates the natural color and look of the wood, and I’m saying this for redwood, teak, and light oak, which are the types I’ve applied it to. It dries in a day like most spar varnishes and typically doesn’t need to be thinned, though sanding is ideal per coat.

Incidentally, I need to underline the fact that this varnish is one of the few that doesn’t skin over in the can after you’ve stored what’s left of it. At least, that’s what I can say for most of the cans I’ve purchased and stored, with about a third of the can full in a year.

• Works well for most types of wood
• Superior durability
• Doesn’t skin like other varnishes
• More reasonably priced than other brands

This rarely figures in marine varnish review posts, and that’s unfortunate considering it’s another top-quality marine varnish that doesn’t yellow, imparts a glossy and thick appearance, and superb UV protection.

Usually, I use this as a general-purpose varnish for the teak and cedar parts and fixtures of my one and only yacht. It gives a deep-colored, thick, glossy, grainy, and smooth finish that I can’t get enough of. It doesn’t yellow at all, probably because of the UV additive used, at least, partly. Anyway, this is one positive quality I always like from any alkyd varnish that is done right.

I prefer to spray this one, following the 20% thinning guideline. Spraying shortens the time for full coverage. I sand lightly between coats using 220-grit sandpaper, and by and large, I only need 3 to 4 coats to get the beautiful finish I described above. It takes almost a whole day to dry, but I don’t mind since I get quality results.

As for durability, I can safely say it’s UV stable. I often leave a couple of chairs and tables out on the deck if the weather’s great, oftentimes, for an entire day. Besides a few scratches in some parts, which aren’t UV-related, they haven’t peeled yet and have maintained their shininess after 2 years since application. I can say the same for the yacht’s teak pulpit.

• Doesn’t yellow
• Superb UV protection
• Proven gloss retention

To me, this is the best boat varnish if we’re only considering durability. It also earns a ready checkmark in protection and attractive finish, making it nothing short of tough to beat.

As far as durability is concerned, the longest that I’ve seen this last without undergoing any kind of major peeling or cracking is close to 3 and a half years. It was on my favorite canoe, which I use fairly regularly for freshwater fishing. 3 years is the maximum for any exterior wood varnish for me, and without a doubt, many boaters would say the same.

I attribute most of the longevity to the excellent water and UV protection. My canoe has borne the brunt of rain and water splashes over the years. I can say the same when I expose it to extensive sunlight exposure when I go fishing in Lake Erie. Top-tier durability in my book.

I sometimes use a thinner with this varnish, but I’ve found that you don’t really need to thin it if you use an HVLP spray gun. Sure, it takes a while to dry and you have to be extra careful, but I’ll take that any day if I get to enjoy these perks and results consistently.

• Outstanding durability
• Relatively attractive finish
• Easy to apply with a sprayer
• Comes in gloss and satin varieties
• Dries slowly without a thinner

A true gem of a find, Duralux exceeded my expectations with its durability and versatility.

In almost any kind of marine varnish for exterior doors, durability and protection immediately go well together. This spar varnish proves it doesn’t belong on the back burner by delivering both. One of my canoes that I applied this on is still going strong for more than a year, and that’s a quality not a lot of products can boast of.

I’ve had varnish that didn’t take more than a month to start peeling and cracking. That’s after a fresh application, mind you, and, yes, I follow brand recommendations to a tee if I haven’t discovered a better way to apply it. This varnish has kept my other canoes shiny every time so I deemed it deserves the spotlight.

Moreover, it doesn’t yellow over time, unlike some clear varnish I’ve used before. You may argue that there’s a lot of variables when it comes to varnish yellowing, like sanding and possible chemicals it can react to. I’m not sure whether this is spar polyurethane, but I’m betting it is since that’s the only type of varnish I’ve used that doesn’t give me the yellowing effect even with minimal to no sanding.

• Satisfactory finish
• Uncomplicated application
• Doesn’t yellow over time
• Doesn’t dry quickly

Old Masters’s varnish shouldn’t be overlooked for its conveniences and quality that only a few top-tier varnish brands can bravely claim they can deliver every time.

This is among the lesser-known spar varnishes that don’t yellow even after a long time has passed. The canoe that I refurbished 3 years ago would prove as much, as it’s still holding up well, surprisingly if I might add. To be honest, this was a second option when I bought it as I didn’t have TotalBoat and McCluskey varnishes available back when I did the finishing job.

I was pleasantly surprised by how things turned out. I followed the instructions and stirred it well. It’s just the right kind of thick, to the point that I don’t have to thin it when applying with a brush or roller. I do have to thoroughly sand and clean the surface first, and it evens out nicely with every coating.

It dries quickly enough for me to apply a second coat in a single day, making me think it’s an exception among oil-based spar varnishes. At best, I give an allowance of 8 to 10 hours before brushing the next coat. Obviously, that’s a time-saving perk I’ll take any day.

It doesn’t produce a yellowing effect, even when applied to parts of my canoe that are regularly exposed to heat, sunlight, and the elements. That’s noteworthy considering it’s a clear varnish. I even have to say that the slightly weathered look it has gotten lends it a charm that most boaters would appreciate.

• Easy application
• Decent durability and finish
• Doesn’t yellow with age
• Limited to small pint-sized cans

Based on my experience, there are many “safe” marine varnish options out there. This only means you’re likely to not run out of beginner-friendly brands and can guarantee high-quality results at the same time. Whether it’s high-gloss or satin, all spar varnishes are easy to apply over new wood or previously coated surfaces. Marine varnish is also not partial to any type of wood and can accommodate those commonly found aboard or form part of a vessel, like teak, redwood, oak, etc.

However, that doesn’t completely discount the need to pay attention to certain factors when making your decision. These are usually the ones I make a note of when planning to start a varnishing job.

• Durability – I’ve found that marine-grade polyurethane is hard to equal when it comes to finishes that are guaranteed to last. Most spar varnishes pale in comparison to their urethane counterparts in this regard because polyurethane tends to last for a minimum of 3 years before re-coats are needed, based on my experience. This is why they’re great options as a marine varnish for outdoor furniture.

For spar varnishes, I’ve had finishes that only lasted a year or even less. At best, these two offer equally potent UV protection, waterproof benefits, and even resistance to scratching.

• Drying Time – Are you working with a severely limited timeframe and need to complete coats within a day? You may want to consider varnishes that dry faster like water-based spar urethane since these can dry in only a few hours. Most spar varnishes require a whole day of waiting to apply coats, assuming climate conditions are optimal.
• Ease of Use – To ensure you won’t end up throwing away your money, don’t ignore how easy or hard a specific varnish is typically applied.
• Shelf Life – It won’t hurt to pay attention to how long a specific can of varnish will last while in storage.
• Gloss – This is admittedly a largely subjective factor, but if you’re opting for high-gloss varnish, it’s almost always the one with the best durability. However, do you like your wood to be extra shiny? There are semi-gloss and satin finishes that are just as attractive, if not more, especially when used on anything wood that is below deck.

We also need to discuss the possibility of a varnish yellowing or darkening the wood that it is applied to. Sometimes, the darkening could be due to the UV additive or tint used; thus, making it unavoidable unless you opt for a different varnish brand altogether.

As for yellowing, there are ways to avoid it. I shall discuss it below, but sometimes, it’s due to the actual product as well, especially if they are clear, alkyd, or oil-based. It’s not an absolute thing, though, and there are products that prove to be exceptions to this rule.

You’ll hear a lot of experienced boaters recommending brands like Epifanes, TotalBoat, McCloskey, and Rust-Oleum. I agree with them because, to me, these brands can easily meet the standards of high-quality marine varnish. Each one has qualities where they serve to shine better, and the reviews I outlined above should give you a good idea about what they are.

Nonetheless, I’m not completely discounting the other brands I included here. I daresay that they’re just as good as those top-dog brands, especially in essential factors like durability and a long-lasting aesthetically appealing finish. Moreover, I find them to be valuable substitutes if any go-to brand happens to be unavailable and won’t even hesitate to pick them as the main option based on certain requirements of a finishing job.

Incidentally, you may have noticed that I didn’t include ease of cleaning when discussing these brands. That’s because most, if not all, of them are very easy to clean for me. At least, for the almost uniform smooth finishes that I get out of them.

There’s not much, really. When boaters use the term “spar varnish”, chances are, they’re also automatically referring to marine varnish. You can also see this in how brands usually label their products in online stores, like Sherwin Williams marine spar varnish or TotalBoat gleam marine spar varnish, to cite a few examples. If you’re using spar varnish, it’s almost always marine-grade.

Both terms give the ready connotation of finishes that provide heavy-duty protection against the harsh elements usually involved when boating, fishing, and cruising. You’ll find plenty of oil-based spar varnishes (i.e. tung oil, alkyd resin, etc.) that are imbued with additives that serve to accentuate the natural beauty of the wood, as well as solvents and other chemicals that promote fast drying and add UV protection.

Since certain varnishes have different components or are more natural or synthetic, it’s best to stick to the manufacturer’s instructions when applying any kind of varnish. However, we can’t deny that most projects share a few essential guidelines, such as the following:

• Preparation usually entails sanding between coats. The most ideal to use for this purpose is 180 to 220-grit sandpaper or even a Scotchbrite pad will do sometimes. Take note that some varnish products can do without sanding, especially for the initial coat. But, this would still depend on whether you’re applying it to a bare wooden surface or if it’s been previously coated before. If it’s the latter, then you’d most likely need to sand it first.
• Clean the dust that forms after sanding using a clean rag. I wipe it down further with a tack rag to ensure no dust or debris would still be present the moment I start applying coats.
• As for temperature and humidity, it’s best to apply any kind of marine varnish if the temperatures during the entire day don’t go above 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity should be 50 to 60% or even slightly lower than that. I found that the smartest route to take is to be patient and wait for the right climate before going ahead with a project, especially if you know that it will take a number of days to finish.
• Thinning depends a lot on the product. If it’s too thick, it’s often necessary to do this, even if the brand doesn’t mention it in the instructions. The safest route for this is to follow a 2:1 varnish to thinner ratio. Mineral spirits are recommended.
• I also recommend taking the time to strain the varnish using a paint strainer to ensure a smooth finish. Sometimes, this can make all the difference in the world in getting the kind of finish that any boater would be proud of.
• As for applying coats, there are certain products that require you to start from the middle so that you can ensure an even coating. Others would caution about wiping too much, while many suggest, as is often the case in spar oil-based urethane, to make thin coats for every layer.
• Bristle brushes and badger-hair brushes are often the standard tool for application. But, again, there are products that are easier to apply with a spray or roller.

Most marine varnishes typically last for at least 2 years. There are brands that have a minimum of 3 years before they begin showing signs of damage. I can attest to marine varnish that keeps its shine and protection for 5 years, and I’ve highlighted the exact products that can achieve that.

Ultimately, if you keep its sun exposure to a minimum, you’re guaranteed to extend any kind of varnish’s lifespan. I’ve noticed that varnished fixtures and furniture in my yacht tend to last significantly longer than the ones that are exposed to sunlight extensively, regardless of the varnish’s UV-protective capabilities.

This is almost always the case considering this type of varnish is marine-grade. Most experts attribute this to spar varnish’s flexibility (i.e. its ability to expand and contract with the wood). However, equally many attribute it to the simple fact that spar varnish is mainly oil-based, allowing to wick away moisture with ease.

Now, do you have a good idea of what the best marine varnish brings to the table? With all things considered, the best parting advice I can give is to not hesitate to try out the options available to you. Sure, there will always be no-brainer choices, but it didn’t take long for me to find out that it pays to try out other brands because they may give your boat the kind of shine or longevity you’ve always wanted.

“I am James Harvey – founder of Boating Basics Online. It is established with the drive to help out first-time boaters, which are those desiring to explore their way through the water. So if you are new to boating, start from here with me. “

• Places - European, Western and Northern Russia

YEKATERINBURG: FACTORIES, URAL SIGHTS, YELTSIN AND THE WHERE NICHOLAS II WAS KILLED

Sverdlovsk oblast.

Sverdlovsk Oblast is the largest region in the Urals; it lies in the foothills of mountains and contains a monument indicating the border between Europe and Asia. The region covers 194,800 square kilometers (75,200 square miles), is home to about 4.3 million people and has a population density of 22 people per square kilometer. About 83 percent of the population live in urban areas. Yekaterinburg is the capital and largest city, with 1.5 million people. For Russians, the Ural Mountains are closely associated with Pavel Bazhov's tales and known for folk crafts such as Kasli iron sculpture, Tagil painting, and copper embossing. Yekaterinburg is the birthplace of Russia’s iron and steel industry, taking advantage of the large iron deposits in the Ural mountains. The popular Silver Ring of the Urals tourist route starts here.

In the summer you can follow in the tracks of Yermak, climb relatively low Ural mountain peaks and look for boulders seemingly with human faces on them. You can head to the Gemstone Belt of the Ural mountains, which used to house emerald, amethyst and topaz mines. In the winter you can go ice fishing, ski and cross-country ski.

Sverdlovsk Oblast and Yekaterinburg are located near the center of Russia, at the crossroads between Europe and Asia and also the southern and northern parts of Russia. Winters are longer and colder than in western section of European Russia. Snowfalls can be heavy. Winter temperatures occasionally drop as low as - 40 degrees C (-40 degrees F) and the first snow usually falls in October. A heavy winter coat, long underwear and good boots are essential. Snow and ice make the sidewalks very slippery, so footwear with a good grip is important. Since the climate is very dry during the winter months, skin moisturizer plus lip balm are recommended. Be alert for mud on street surfaces when snow cover is melting (April-May). Patches of mud create slippery road conditions.

Yekaterinburg

Yekaterinburg (kilometer 1818 on the Trans-Siberian Railway) is the fourth largest city in Russia, with of 1.5 million and growth rate of about 12 percent, high for Russia. Located in the southern Ural mountains, it was founded by Peter the Great and named after his wife Catherine, it was used by the tsars as a summer retreat and is where tsar Nicholas II and his family were executed and President Boris Yeltsin lived most of his life and began his political career. The city is near the border between Europe and Asia.

Yekaterinburg (also spelled Ekaterinburg) is located on the eastern slope of the Ural Mountains in the headwaters of the Iset and Pyshma Rivers. The Iset runs through the city center. Three ponds — Verkh-Isetsky, Gorodskoy and Nizhne-Isetsky — were created on it. Yekaterinburg has traditionally been a city of mining and was once the center of the mining industry of the Urals and Siberia. Yekaterinburg remains a major center of the Russian armaments industry and is sometimes called the "Pittsburgh of Russia.". A few ornate, pastel mansions and wide boulevards are reminders of the tsarist era. The city is large enough that it has its own Metro system but is characterized mostly by blocky Soviet-era apartment buildings. The city has advanced under President Vladimir Putin and is now one of the fastest growing places in Russia, a country otherwise characterized by population declines

Yekaterinburg is technically an Asian city as it lies 32 kilometers east of the continental divide between Europe and Asia. The unofficial capital of the Urals, a key region in the Russian heartland, it is second only to Moscow in terms of industrial production and capital of Sverdlovsk oblast. Among the important industries are ferrous and non-ferrous metallurgy, machine building and metalworking, chemical and petrochemicals, construction materials and medical, light and food industries. On top of being home of numerous heavy industries and mining concerns, Yekaterinburg is also a major center for industrial research and development and power engineering as well as home to numerous institutes of higher education, technical training, and scientific research. In addition, Yekaterinburg is the largest railway junction in Russia: the Trans-Siberian Railway passes through it, the southern, northern, western and eastern routes merge in the city.

Accommodation: There are two good and affordable hotels — the 3-star Emerald and Parus hotels — located close to the city's most popular landmarks and main transport interchanges in the center of Yekaterinburg. Room prices start at RUB 1,800 per night.

History of Yekaterinburg

Yekaterinburg was founded in 1723 by Peter the Great and named after his wife Catherine I. It was used by the tsars as a summer retreat but was mainly developed as metalworking and manufacturing center to take advantage of the large deposits of iron and other minerals in the Ural mountains. It is best known to Americans as the place where the last Tsar and his family were murdered by the Bolsheviks in 1918 and near where American U-2 spy plane, piloted by Gary Powers, was shot down in 1960.

Peter the Great recognized the importance of the iron and copper-rich Urals region for Imperial Russia's industrial and military development. In November 1723, he ordered the construction of a fortress factory and an ironworks in the Iset River Valley, which required a dam for its operation. In its early years Yekaterinburg grew rich from gold and other minerals and later coal. The Yekaterinburg gold rush of 1745 created such a huge amount of wealth that one rich baron of that time hosted a wedding party that lasted a year. By the mid-18th century, metallurgical plants had sprung up across the Urals to cast cannons, swords, guns and other weapons to arm Russia’s expansionist ambitions. The Yekaterinburg mint produced most of Russia's coins. Explorations of the Trans-Baikal and Altai regions began here in the 18th century.

Iron, cast iron and copper were the main products. Even though Iron from the region went into the Eiffel Tower, the main plant in Yekaterinburg itself was shut down in 1808. The city still kept going through a mountain factory control system of the Urals. The first railway in the Urals was built here: in 1878, the Yekaterinburg-Perm railway branch connected the province's capital with the factories of the Middle Urals.

In the Soviet era the city was called Sverdlovsk (named after Yakov Sverdlov, the man who organized Nicholas II's execution). During the first five-year plans the city became industrial — old plants were reconstructed, new ones were built. The center of Yekaterinburg was formed to conform to the historical general plan of 1829 but was the layout was adjusted around plants and factories. In the Stalin era the city was a major gulag transhipment center. In World War II, many defense-related industries were moved here. It and the surrounding area were a center of the Soviet Union's military industrial complex. Soviet tanks, missiles and aircraft engines were made in the Urals. During the Cold War era, Yekaterinburg was a center of weapons-grade uranium enrichment and processing, warhead assembly and dismantlement. In 1979, 64 people died when anthrax leaked from a biological weapons facility. Yekaterinburg was a “Closed City” for 40 years during the Cold Soviet era and was not open to foreigners until 1991

In the early post-Soviet era, much like Pittsburgh in the 1970s, Yekaterinburg had a hard struggle d to cope with dramatic economic changes that have made its heavy industries uncompetitive on the world market. Huge defense plants struggled to survive and the city was notorious as an organized crime center in the 1990s, when its hometown boy Boris Yeltsin was President of Russia. By the 2000s, Yekaterinburg’s retail and service was taking off, the defense industry was reviving and it was attracting tech industries and investments related to the Urals’ natural resources. By the 2010s it was vying to host a world exhibition in 2020 (it lost, Dubai won) and it had McDonald’s, Subway, sushi restaurants, and Gucci, Chanel and Armani. There were Bentley and Ferrari dealerships but they closed down

Transportation in Yekaterinburg

Getting There: By Plane: Yekaterinburg is a three-hour flight from Moscow with prices starting at RUB 8,000, or a 3-hour flight from Saint Petersburg starting from RUB 9,422 (direct round-trip flight tickets for one adult passenger). There are also flights from Frankfurt, Istanbul, China and major cities in the former Soviet Union.

By Train: Yekaterinburg is a major stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway. Daily train service is available to Moscow and many other Russian cities.Yekaterinburg is a 32-hour train ride from Moscow (tickets RUB 8,380 and above) or a 36-hour train ride from Saint Petersburg (RUB 10,300 and above). The ticket prices are round trip for a berth in a sleeper compartment for one adult passenger). By Car: a car trip from Moscow to Yekateringburg is 1,787 kilometers long and takes about 18 hours. The road from Saint Petersburg is 2,294 kilometers and takes about 28 hours.

Regional Transport: The region's public transport includes buses and suburban electric trains. Regional trains provide transport to larger cities in the Ural region. Buses depart from Yekaterinburg’s two bus stations: the Southern Bus Station and the Northern Bus Station.

Regional Transport: According the to Association for Safe International Road Travel (ASIRT): “Public transportation is well developed. Overcrowding is common. Fares are low. Service is efficient. Buses are the main form of public transport. Tram network is extensive. Fares are reasonable; service is regular. Trams are heavily used by residents, overcrowding is common. Purchase ticket after boarding. Metro runs from city center to Uralmash, an industrial area south of the city. Metro ends near the main railway station. Fares are inexpensive.

“Traffic is congested in city center. Getting around by car can be difficult. Route taxis (minivans) provide the fastest transport. They generally run on specific routes, but do not have specific stops. Drivers stop where passengers request. Route taxis can be hailed. Travel by bus or trolleybuses may be slow in rush hour. Trams are less affected by traffic jams. Trolley buses (electric buses) cannot run when temperatures drop below freezing.”

Entertainment, Sports and Recreation in Yekaterinburg

The performing arts in Yekaterinburg are first rate. The city has an excellent symphony orchestra, opera and ballet theater, and many other performing arts venues. Tickets are inexpensive. The Yekaterinburg Opera and Ballet Theater is lavishly designed and richly decorated building in the city center of Yekaterinburg. The theater was established in 1912 and building was designed by architect Vladimir Semyonov and inspired by the Vienna Opera House and the Theater of Opera and Ballet in Odessa.

Vaynera Street is a pedestrian only shopping street in city center with restaurants, cafes and some bars. But otherwise Yekaterinburg's nightlife options are limited. There are a handful of expensive Western-style restaurants and bars, none of them that great. Nightclubs serve the city's nouveau riche clientele. Its casinos have closed down. Some of them had links with organized crime. New dance clubs have sprung up that are popular with Yekaterinburg's more affluent youth.

Yekaterinburg's most popular spectator sports are hockey, basketball, and soccer. There are stadiums and arenas that host all three that have fairly cheap tickets. There is an indoor water park and lots of parks and green spaces. The Urals have many lakes, forests and mountains are great for hiking, boating, berry and mushroom hunting, swimming and fishing. Winter sports include cross-country skiing and ice skating. Winter lasts about six months and there’s usually plenty of snow. The nearby Ural Mountains however are not very high and the downhill skiing opportunities are limited..

Sights in Yekaterinburg

Sights in Yekaterinburg include the Museum of City Architecture and Ural Industry, with an old water tower and mineral collection with emeralds. malachite, tourmaline, jasper and other precious stone; Geological Alley, a small park with labeled samples of minerals found in the Urals region; the Ural Geology Museum, which houses an extensive collection of stones, gold and gems from the Urals; a monument marking the border between Europe and Asia; a memorial for gulag victims; and a graveyard with outlandish memorials for slain mafia members.

The Military History Museum houses the remains of the U-2 spy plane shot down in 1960 and locally made tanks and rocket launchers. The fine arts museum contains paintings by some of Russia's 19th-century masters. Also worth a look are the History an Local Studies Museum; the Political History and Youth Museum; and the University and Arboretum. Old wooden houses can be seen around Zatoutstovsya ulitsa and ulitsa Belinskogo. Around the city are wooded parks, lakes and quarries used to harvest a variety of minerals. Weiner Street is the main street of Yekaterinburg. Along it are lovely sculptures and 19th century architecture. Take a walk around the unique Literary Quarter

Plotinka is a local meeting spot, where you will often find street musicians performing. Plotinka can be described as the center of the city's center. This is where Yekaterinburg holds its biggest events: festivals, seasonal fairs, regional holiday celebrations, carnivals and musical fountain shows. There are many museums and open-air exhibitions on Plotinka. Plotinka is named after an actual dam of the city pond located nearby (“plotinka” means “a small dam” in Russian).In November 1723, Peter the Great ordered the construction of an ironworks in the Iset River Valley, which required a dam for its operation. “Iset” can be translated from Finnish as “abundant with fish”. This name was given to the river by the Mansi — the Finno-Ugric people dwelling on the eastern slope of the Northern Urals.

Vysotsky and Iset are skyscrapers that are 188.3 meters and 209 meters high, respectively. Fifty-story-high Iset has been described by locals as the world’s northernmost skyscraper. Before the construction of Iset, Vysotsky was the tallest building of Yekaterinburg and Russia (excluding Moscow). A popular vote has decided to name the skyscraper after the famous Soviet songwriter, singer and actor Vladimir Vysotsky. and the building was opened on November 25, 2011. There is a lookout at the top of the building, and the Vysotsky museum on its second floor. The annual “Vysotsky climb” (1137 steps) is held there, with a prize of RUB 100,000. While Vysotsky serves as an office building, Iset, owned by the Ural Mining and Metallurgical Company, houses 225 premium residential apartments ranging from 80 to 490 square meters in size.

Boris Yeltsin Presidential Center

The Boris Yeltsin Presidential Center (in the city center: ul. Yeltsina, 3) is a non-governmental organization named after the first president of the Russian Federation. The Museum of the First President of Russia as well as his archives are located in the Center. There is also a library, educational and children's centers, and exposition halls. Yeltsin lived most of his life and began his political career in Yekaterinburg. He was born in Butka about 200 kilometers east of Yekaterinburg.

The core of the Center is the Museum. Modern multimedia technologies help animate the documents, photos from the archives, and artifacts. The Yeltsin Museum holds collections of: propaganda posters, leaflets, and photos of the first years of the Soviet regime; portraits and portrait sculptures of members of Politburo of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of various years; U.S.S.R. government bonds and other items of the Soviet era; a copy of “One Day in the Life of Ivan Denisovich” by Alexander Solzhenitsyn, published in the “Novy Mir” magazine (#11, 1962); perestroika-era editions of books by Alexander Solzhenitsyn, Vasily Grossman, and other authors; theater, concert, and cinema posters, programs, and tickets — in short, all of the artifacts of the perestroika era.

The Yeltsin Center opened in 2012. Inside you will also find an art gallery, a bookstore, a gift shop, a food court, concert stages and a theater. There are regular screenings of unique films that you will not find anywhere else. Also operating inside the center, is a scientific exploritorium for children. The center was designed by Boris Bernaskoni. Almost from the its very opening, the Yeltsin Center has been accused by members of different political entities of various ideological crimes. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00am to 9:00pm.

Where Nicholas II was Executed

On July, 17, 1918, during this reign of terror of the Russian Civil War, former-tsar Nicholas II, his wife, five children (the 13-year-old Alexis, 22-year-old Olga, 19-year-old Maria and 17-year-old Anastasia)the family physician, the cook, maid, and valet were shot to death by a Red Army firing squad in the cellar of the house they were staying at in Yekaterinburg.

Ipatiev House (near Church on the Blood, Ulitsa Libknekhta) was a merchant's house where Nicholas II and his family were executed. The house was demolished in 1977, on the orders of an up and coming communist politician named Boris Yeltsin. Yeltsin later said that the destruction of the house was an "act of barbarism" and he had no choice because he had been ordered to do it by the Politburo,

The site is marked with s cross with the photos of the family members and cross bearing their names. A small wooden church was built at the site. It contains paintings of the family. For a while there were seven traditional wooden churches. Mass is given ay noon everyday in an open-air museum. The Church on the Blood — constructed to honor Nicholas II and his family — was built on the part of the site in 1991 and is now a major place of pilgrimage.

Nicholas and his family where killed during the Russian civil war. It is thought the Bolsheviks figured that Nicholas and his family gave the Whites figureheads to rally around and they were better of dead. Even though the death orders were signed Yakov Sverdlov, the assassination was personally ordered by Lenin, who wanted to get them out of sight and out of mind. Trotsky suggested a trial. Lenin nixed the idea, deciding something had to be done about the Romanovs before White troops approached Yekaterinburg. Trotsky later wrote: "The decision was not only expedient but necessary. The severity of he punishment showed everyone that we would continue to fight on mercilessly, stopping at nothing."

Ian Frazier wrote in The New Yorker: “Having read a lot about the end of Tsar Nicholas II and his family and servants, I wanted to see the place in Yekaterinburg where that event occurred. The gloomy quality of this quest depressed Sergei’s spirits, but he drove all over Yekaterinburg searching for the site nonetheless. Whenever he stopped and asked a pedestrian how to get to the house where Nicholas II was murdered, the reaction was a wince. Several people simply walked away. But eventually, after a lot of asking, Sergei found the location. It was on a low ridge near the edge of town, above railroad tracks and the Iset River. The house, known as the Ipatiev House, was no longer standing, and the basement where the actual killings happened had been filled in. I found the blankness of the place sinister and dizzying. It reminded me of an erasure done so determinedly that it had worn a hole through the page. [Source: Ian Frazier, The New Yorker, August 3, 2009, Frazier is author of “Travels in Siberia” (2010)]

“The street next to the site is called Karl Liebknecht Street. A building near where the house used to be had a large green advertisement that said, in English, “LG—Digitally Yours.” On an adjoining lot, a small chapel kept the memory of the Tsar and his family; beneath a pedestal holding an Orthodox cross, peonies and pansies grew. The inscription on the pedestal read, “We go down on our knees, Russia, at the foot of the tsarist cross.”

Books: The Romanovs: The Final Chapter by Robert K. Massie (Random House, 1995); The Fall of the Romanovs by Mark D. Steinberg and Vladimir Khrustalëv (Yale, 1995);

See Separate Article END OF NICHOLAS II factsanddetails.com

Execution of Nicholas II

According to Robert Massie K. Massie, author of Nicholas and Alexandra, Nicholas II and his family were awakened from their bedrooms around midnight and taken to the basement. They were told they were to going to take some photographs of them and were told to stand behind a row of chairs.

Suddenly, a group of 11 Russians and Latvians, each with a revolver, burst into the room with orders to kill a specific person. Yakob Yurovsky, a member of the Soviet executive committee, reportedly shouted "your relatives are continuing to attack the Soviet Union.” After firing, bullets bouncing off gemstones hidden in the corsets of Alexandra and her daughters ricocheted around the room like "a shower of hail," the soldiers said. Those that were still breathing were killed with point black shots to the head.

The three sisters and the maid survived the first round thanks to their gems. They were pressed up against a wall and killed with a second round of bullets. The maid was the only one that survived. She was pursued by the executioners who stabbed her more than 30 times with their bayonets. The still writhing body of Alexis was made still by a kick to the head and two bullets in the ear delivered by Yurovsky himself.

Yurovsky wrote: "When the party entered I told the Romanovs that in view of the fact their relatives continued their offensive against Soviet Russia, the Executive Committee of the Urals Soviet had decided to shoot them. Nicholas turned his back to the detachment and faced his family. Then, as if collecting himself, he turned around, asking, 'What? What?'"

"[I] ordered the detachment to prepare. Its members had been previously instructed whom to shoot and to am directly at the heart to avoid much blood and to end more quickly. Nicholas said no more. he turned again to his family. The others shouted some incoherent exclamations. All this lasted a few seconds. Then commenced the shooting, which went on for two or three minutes. [I] killed Nicholas on the spot."

Nicholas II’s Initial Burial Site in Yekaterinburg

Ganina Yama Monastery (near the village of Koptyaki, 15 kilometers northwest of Yekaterinburg) stands near the three-meter-deep pit where some the remains of Nicholas II and his family were initially buried. The second burial site — where most of the remains were — is in a field known as Porosyonkov (56.9113628°N 60.4954326°E), seven kilometers from Ganina Yama.

On visiting Ganina Yama Monastery, one person posted in Trip Advisor: “We visited this set of churches in a pretty park with Konstantin from Ekaterinburg Guide Centre. He really brought it to life with his extensive knowledge of the history of the events surrounding their terrible end. The story is so moving so unless you speak Russian, it is best to come here with a guide or else you will have no idea of what is what.”

In 1991, the acid-burned remains of Nicholas II and his family were exhumed from a shallow roadside mass grave in a swampy area 12 miles northwest of Yekaterinburg. The remains had been found in 1979 by geologist and amateur archeologist Alexander Avdonin, who kept the location secret out of fear that they would be destroyed by Soviet authorities. The location was disclosed to a magazine by one his fellow discovers.

The original plan was to throw the Romanovs down a mine shaft and disposes of their remains with acid. They were thrown in a mine with some grenades but the mine didn't collapse. They were then carried by horse cart. The vats of acid fell off and broke. When the carriage carrying the bodies broke down it was decided the bury the bodies then and there. The remaining acid was poured on the bones, but most of it was soaked up the ground and the bones largely survived.

After this their pulses were then checked, their faces were crushed to make them unrecognizable and the bodies were wrapped in bed sheets loaded onto a truck. The "whole procedure," Yurovsky said took 20 minutes. One soldiers later bragged than he could "die in peace because he had squeezed the Empress's -------."

The bodies were taken to a forest and stripped, burned with acid and gasoline, and thrown into abandoned mine shafts and buried under railroad ties near a country road near the village of Koptyaki. "The bodies were put in the hole," Yurovsky wrote, "and the faces and all the bodies, generally doused with sulfuric acid, both so they couldn't be recognized and prevent a stink from them rotting...We scattered it with branches and lime, put boards on top and drove over it several times—no traces of the hole remained.

Shortly afterwards, the government in Moscow announced that Nicholas II had been shot because of "a counterrevolutionary conspiracy." There was no immediate word on the other members of the family which gave rise to rumors that other members of the family had escaped. Yekaterinburg was renamed Sverdlov in honor of the man who signed the death orders.

For seven years the remains of Nicholas II, Alexandra, three of their daughters and four servants were stored in polyethylene bags on shelves in the old criminal morgue in Yekaterunburg. On July 17, 1998, Nicholas II and his family and servants who were murdered with him were buried Peter and Paul Fortress in St. Petersburg along with the other Romanov tsars, who have been buried there starting with Peter the Great. Nicholas II had a side chapel built for himself at the fortress in 1913 but was buried in a new crypt.

Near Yekaterinburg

Factory-Museum of Iron and Steel Metallurgy (in Niznhy Tagil 80 kilometers north of Yekaterinburg) a museum with old mining equipment made at the site of huge abandoned iron and steel factory. Officially known as the Factory-Museum of the History of the Development of Iron and Steel Metallurgy, it covers an area of 30 hectares and contains a factory founded by the Demidov family in 1725 that specialized mainly in the production of high-quality cast iron and steel. Later, the foundry was renamed after Valerian Kuybyshev, a prominent figure of the Communist Party.

The first Russian factory museum, the unusual museum demonstrates all stages of metallurgy and metal working. There is even a blast furnace and an open-hearth furnace. The display of factory equipment includes bridge crane from 1892) and rolling stock equipment from the 19th-20th centuries. In Niznhy Tagil contains some huge blocks of malachite and

Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha (180 kilometers east-northeast of Yekaterinburg) has an open air architecture museum with log buildings, a stone church and other pre-revolutionary architecture. The village is the creation of Ivan Samoilov, a local activist who loved his village so much he dedicated 40 years of his life to recreating it as the open-air museum of wooden architecture.

The stone Savior Church, a good example of Siberian baroque architecture. The interior and exterior of the church are exhibition spaces of design. The houses are very colorful. In tsarist times, rich villagers hired serfs to paint the walls of their wooden izbas (houses) bright colors. Old neglected buildings from the 17th to 19th centuries have been brought to Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha from all over the Urals. You will see the interior design of the houses and hear stories about traditions and customs of the Ural farmers.

Verkhoturye (330 kilometers road from Yekaterinburg) is the home a 400-year-old monastery that served as 16th century capital of the Urals. Verkhoturye is a small town on the Tura River knows as the Jerusalem of the Urals for its many holy places, churches and monasteries. The town's main landmark is its Kremlin — the smallest in Russia. Pilgrims visit the St. Nicholas Monastery to see the remains of St. Simeon of Verkhoturye, the patron saint of fishermen.

Ural Mountains

Ural Mountains are the traditional dividing line between Europe and Asia and have been a crossroads of Russian history. Stretching from Kazakhstan to the fringes of the Arctic Kara Sea, the Urals lie almost exactly along the 60 degree meridian of longitude and extend for about 2,000 kilometers (1,300 miles) from north to south and varies in width from about 50 kilometers (30 miles) in the north and 160 kilometers (100 miles) the south. At kilometers 1777 on the Trans-Siberian Railway there is white obelisk with "Europe" carved in Russian on one side and "Asia" carved on the other.

The eastern side of the Urals contains a lot of granite and igneous rock. The western side is primarily sandstone and limestones. A number of precious stones can be found in the southern part of the Urals, including emeralds. malachite, tourmaline, jasper and aquamarines. The highest peaks are in the north. Mount Narodnaya is the highest of all but is only 1884 meters (6,184 feet) high. The northern Urals are covered in thick forests and home to relatively few people.

Like the Appalachian Mountains in the eastern United States, the Urals are very old mountains — with rocks and sediments that are hundreds of millions years old — that were one much taller than they are now and have been steadily eroded down over millions of years by weather and other natural processes to their current size. According to Encyclopedia Britannica: “The rock composition helps shape the topography: the high ranges and low, broad-topped ridges consist of quartzites, schists, and gabbro, all weather-resistant. Buttes are frequent, and there are north–south troughs of limestone, nearly all containing river valleys. Karst topography is highly developed on the western slopes of the Urals, with many caves, basins, and underground streams. The eastern slopes, on the other hand, have fewer karst formations; instead, rocky outliers rise above the flattened surfaces. Broad foothills, reduced to peneplain, adjoin the Central and Southern Urals on the east.

“The Urals date from the structural upheavals of the Hercynian orogeny (about 250 million years ago). About 280 million years ago there arose a high mountainous region, which was eroded to a peneplain. Alpine folding resulted in new mountains, the most marked upheaval being that of the Nether-Polar Urals...The western slope of the Urals is composed of middle Paleozoic sedimentary rocks (sandstones and limestones) that are about 350 million years old. In many places it descends in terraces to the Cis-Ural depression (west of the Urals), to which much of the eroded matter was carried during the late Paleozoic (about 300 million years ago). Found there are widespread karst (a starkly eroded limestone region) and gypsum, with large caverns and subterranean streams. On the eastern slope, volcanic layers alternate with sedimentary strata, all dating from middle Paleozoic times.”

Southern Urals

The southern Urals are characterized by grassy slopes and fertile valleys. The middle Urals are a rolling platform that barely rises above 300 meters (1,000 feet). This region is rich in minerals and has been heavily industrialized. This is where you can find Yekaterinburg (formally Sverdlovsk), the largest city in the Urals.

Most of the Southern Urals are is covered with forests, with 50 percent of that pine-woods, 44 percent birch woods, and the rest are deciduous aspen and alder forests. In the north, typical taiga forests are the norm. There are patches of herbal-poaceous steppes, northem sphagnous marshes and bushy steppes, light birch forests and shady riparian forests, tall-grass mountainous meadows, lowland ling marshes and stony placers with lichen stains. In some places there are no large areas of homogeneous forests, rather they are forests with numerous glades and meadows of different size.

In the Ilmensky Mountains Reserve in the Southern Urals, scientists counted 927 vascular plants (50 relicts, 23 endemic species), about 140 moss species, 483 algae species and 566 mushroom species. Among the species included into the Red Book of Russia are feather grass, downy-leaved feather grass, Zalessky feather grass, moccasin flower, ladies'-slipper, neottianthe cucullata, Baltic orchis, fen orchis, helmeted orchis, dark-winged orchis, Gelma sandwart, Krasheninnikov sandwart, Clare astragalus.

The fauna of the vertebrate animals in the Reserve includes 19 fish, 5 amphibian and 5 reptile. Among the 48 mammal species are elks, roe deer, boars, foxes, wolves, lynxes, badgers, common weasels, least weasels, forest ferrets, Siberian striped weasel, common marten, American mink. Squirrels, beavers, muskrats, hares, dibblers, moles, hedgehogs, voles are quite common, as well as chiropterans: pond bat, water bat, Brandt's bat, whiskered bat, northern bat, long-eared bat, parti-coloured bat, Nathusius' pipistrelle. The 174 bird bird species include white-tailed eagles, honey hawks, boreal owls, gnome owls, hawk owls, tawny owls, common scoters, cuckoos, wookcocks, common grouses, wood grouses, hazel grouses, common partridges, shrikes, goldenmountain thrushes, black- throated loons and others.

Activities and Places in the Ural Mountains

The Urals possess beautiful natural scenery that can be accessed from Yekaterinburg with a rent-a-car, hired taxi and tour. Travel agencies arrange rafting, kayaking and hiking trips. Hikes are available in the taiga forest and the Urals. Trips often include walks through the taiga to small lakes and hikes into the mountains and excursions to collect mushrooms and berries and climb in underground caves. Mellow rafting is offered in a relatively calm six kilometer section of the River Serga. In the winter visitor can enjoy cross-mountains skiing, downhill skiing, ice fishing, dog sledding, snow-shoeing and winter hiking through the forest to a cave covered with ice crystals.

Lake Shartash (10 kilometers from Yekaterinburg) is where the first Ural gold was found, setting in motion the Yekaterinburg gold rush of 1745, which created so much wealth one rich baron of that time hosted a wedding party that lasted a year. The area around Shartash Lake is a favorite picnic and barbecue spot of the locals. Getting There: by bus route No. 50, 054 or 54, with a transfer to suburban commuter bus route No. 112, 120 or 121 (the whole trip takes about an hour), or by car (10 kilometers drive from the city center, 40 minutes).

Revun Rapids (90 kilometers road from Yekaterinburg near Beklenishcheva village) is a popular white water rafting places On the nearby cliffs you can see the remains of a mysterious petroglyph from the Paleolithic period. Along the steep banks, you may notice the dark entrance of Smolinskaya Cave. There are legends of a sorceress who lived in there. The rocks at the riverside are suited for competitive rock climbers and beginners. Climbing hooks and rings are hammered into rocks. The most fun rafting is generally in May and June.

Olenii Ruchii National Park (100 kilometers west of Yekaterinburg) is the most popular nature park in Sverdlovsk Oblast and popular weekend getaway for Yekaterinburg residents. Visitors are attracted by the beautiful forests, the crystal clear Serga River and picturesque rocks caves. There are some easy hiking routes: the six-kilometer Lesser Ring and the 15-kilometer Greater Ring. Another route extends for 18 km and passes by the Mitkinsky Mine, which operated in the 18th-19th centuries. It's a kind of an open-air museum — you can still view mining an enrichment equipment here. There is also a genuine beaver dam nearby.

Among the other attractions at Olenii Ruchii are Druzhba (Friendship) Cave, with passages that extend for about 500 meters; Dyrovaty Kamen (Holed Stone), created over time by water of Serga River eroding rock; and Utoplennik (Drowned Man), where you can see “The Angel of Sole Hope”., created by the Swedish artist Lehna Edwall, who has placed seven angels figures in different parts of the world to “embrace the planet, protecting it from fear, despair, and disasters.”

Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons

Text Sources: Federal Agency for Tourism of the Russian Federation (official Russia tourism website russiatourism.ru ), Russian government websites, UNESCO, Wikipedia, Lonely Planet guides, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, National Geographic, The New Yorker, Bloomberg, Reuters, Associated Press, AFP, Yomiuri Shimbun and various books and other publications.

Updated in September 2020

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