sailboat mast swing

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

The best mast climbing gear for sailors & solo climbers

• April 19, 2023

The best mast climbing gear for sailors isn't necessarily anything fancy and marinised with a premium price tag, instead you can pick up the best mast climbing gear from a regular high street store with a climbing department. This buyers guide has all the gear for climbing a mast solo, double handed or fully crewed.

The best mast climbing gear for solo sailors or double handed sailors can be found in some well known high street stores and not necessarily in a chandlery.

This buyers guide curates all the gear you might need with plenty of alternative options to suit individual tastes and needs.

If you are unsure how to climb a mast on your own or with a short handed team of two, then you can read how to do that in my other article explaining in a step by step guide how to climb a mast , using some of the gear in this buyers guide.

Happy climbing!

The basic set up at a glance

DMM Women’s Vixen Harness – Buy now from GoOutdoors.co.uk

Petzl ascension ascender – buy petzl ascension left handed from gooutdoors.co.uk, petzl gri gri + – buy grigriplus from decathlon, best mast climbing gear: essential buyer’s guide, harnesses and bosun’s chairs.

DMM Women’s Vixen Harness

Reasons to Buy: Light weight, easy to stow, custom fit and secure Reasons to Avoid : Can cut off circulation to legs if hanging around a long time

This is the harness I used in the video. It is designed for women. I’ve used it for about 8 years and it is still in great condition. It comes in sizes XS to L. I bought the L to fit over my foulies or larger clothes, but it is a little big when wearing just light form fitting clothes. Ideally I would get a smaller sized harness for that purpose.

Specifications • 5 gear loops • breathable • 345g (xs) – 410g (large)

Buy now from GoOutdoors.co.uk

Reasons to Buy : Light weight, easy to stow, custom fit and secure Reasons to Avoid : Can cut off circulation to legs if hanging around a long time

The Beal harness, which is designed for high level climbing is my second harness for use when I am not wearing full foulies. It fits comfortably over shorts or leggings. The soft fit feels snug and comfortable around my hips and thighs and the harness has a good number of gear loops to clips bits and bobs to. It has a double ziplock fastening and is a little lighter weight than the DMM harness above. The leg loops are nicely adjustable to avoid pinch too.

Specifications • 4 gear loops • breathable • 321g (size 1 – waist 61-76cm, thigh 45-57cm) • 358g (size 2 – waist 75-90cm, thigh 54-66cm)

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence. Where indicated, items have been tested independently of manufacturers influence.

PETZL Adjama Harness

Reasons to Buy: Light weigtht, easy to stow, custom fit and secure Reasons to Avoid : Can cut off circulation to legs if hanging around a long time

 Leg loops adjustable with doubleback buckles, to adapt to different body types and to seasonal clothing. Capacity to carry large amount of gear.

Specifications • 5 gear loops • 460g (s) – 545g (large)

Buy now at GoOutdoors.co.uk

Buy now at Amazon.com

Lalizas Bosun’s Chair

Reasons to Buy: comfortable for lengthy spells working up a mast, built in tool stowage, can be used in conjunction with a harness Reasons to Avoid : smaller users might find the metal triangles can hit their chest, not as secure as a dedicated harness

Rigid seat, basic bosun’s chair  from Lalizas as seen on many boats around the world. I have used this one a lot. The only niggle I have with it is the hard metal triangles used for attaching to the halyard have bruised the middle of my chest when they push back while working aloft. I make sure I wear good padding when I use it now, and this may not affect taller people. I keep using it because the hard seat suits me and it’s better than a wooden plank with carpet stapled to it.  Combine this with a harness when working aloft on a lengthy job.

Specifications • tool pockets and loops • rigid seat • no frills but does the job

Buy now on Amazon.co.uk

Lalizas Professional Bosun’s Chair

Reasons to Buy: comfortable for lengthy spells working up a mast, built in tool stowage Reasons to Avoid : smaller people might feel a bit too enclosed in this larger seat

A comfortable bosun’s chair with secure back to avoid slipping through. Good tool storage onboard and tool loops. I’ve used this one on various boats over the years including in the opening picture to this article. It always inspires confidence and comfort.

Specifications • Used by many professional riggers • Comfortable for lengthy spells • Lots of tool storage

Buy Lalizas Professional Bosun’s Chair from Bataeu Plus via Amazon.co.uk

Petzl Ascension Ascender

Reasons to Buy: good for use on most boats using up to 13mm halyards Reasons to Avoid : if you have halyards larger than 13mm this wont fit

This is the ascender I use on my own climbing gear. I use a left handed version because I am right hand dominant and it’s easier for me to slide the ascender up with my left hand while pulling up on the lazy line with my right hand.

Specifications • line size: 8mm – 13mm • 165g • left or right handed versions

Buy Petzl Ascension from Amazon.com

Climbing Technology Quick Up+ Ascender

Reasons to Buy: good for use on most boats using up to 13mm halyards, two seperate holes for gear and lanyards on the bottom keeps gear organised Reasons to Avoid : if you have halyards larger than 13mm this wont fit

The easy-to-use Quick Up+ ascender from Climbing Technology comes with an ergonomic, glove-friendly grip that makes it a solid option for fixed-rope ascents.

Specifications • line size: 8mm – 13mm • 215g • left or right hand versions

Buy CT Quickup Ascender from AlpineTrek.co.uk

Belay Devices

Petzl GriGri+

Reasons to Buy: enables a smooth controlled descent and easy to take up slack when climbing, easy to use Reasons to Avoid : a little pricey for some, involves moving part so you need to ensure you use it correctly to avoid damage

This belay device can be used with all single ropes (optimised for 8.9 to 10.5 mm diameter ropes) and is equipped with an assisted breaking function. Suitable for beginner mast climbers to expert riggers.

Specifications • line size: 8.9mm – 10.5mm • 200g • auto-locking

Buy GriGriplus from Amazon.com

Matik belay

Reasons to Buy: enables a smooth controlled descent and easy to take up slack when climbing Reasons to Avoid : a little pricey, if you prefer to side feed you may want the other style of belay device

This works in a similar way to the GriGri but the line feeds in a straight line rather than from the side. Some people prefer this to avoid their lines becoming twisted.

• line size:  8.6mm to 10.2mm

• antipanic auto clutch engagement

Buy Matik Belay from Amazon.com

Petzl Reverso

Reasons to Buy: enables a smooth controlled descent, simple device with very little to go wrong Reasons to Avoid : requires a little more skill to use

No moving parts, the Petzle Reverso is a simple belay device that can be more easily put on or taken off a line as you go. You push a bight of rope through one of the apertures and clip a carabiner through to act as the friction turn. A really handy bit of a kit.

Specifications • line size 8.5mm to 10.5mm • 57g • very simple device with little to go wrong.

Buy Petzl Reverso from Amazon.com

Grivel Mega K6N Screw Lock Snap Hook

Reasons to Buy: You need several carabiners to rappel, good value for money Reasons to Avoid : Don’t use in places where cross loading might be likely

For belaying and rappelling. It is designed for use with both single and double ropes.

I use two of these in my solo mast climb gear. One is used from the bottom of the ascender to hold the footloop and personal lanyard and the other is used on the top of the ascender to work as a reduction turning point for the belay lazy line.

Specifications • 7000-series aluminum • Screwgate • 78g

Buy Grivel K4n Carabiner from Trek Inn

Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate Carabiner

Reasons to Buy: use these in areas where cross loading is likely to happen, easy to use Reasons to Avoid : they don’t fit on to the ascender as easily as some others

Designed specifically for belaying, the GridLock isolates the belay loop behind its uniquely shaped gate, thereby keeping the carabiner in its proper orientation.

I use two of these carabiners, both from my harness. The anti-crossloading design is reassuring as the repeated loading and unloading of both the belay and ascender has a tendency to make standard carabiners rotate and there’s a high risk of crossloading when solo rappelling.

Specifications • Anti cross load design • 76g

Buy Black Diamond Gridlock from GoOutdoors.co.uk

DMM –  Rhino Quicklock – Locking carabiner

Reasons to Buy: anti crossloading horn can be useful, some love the twist lock feature of the gate Reasons to Avoid : the twist lock gate might not suit some people

For regular users of pulleys or GriGri like belay devices.

I use this carabiner on my prusik line. The horn stops the hitched on line sliding around the carabiner as it is repeatedly adjusted.

Specifications • Anti cross load horn • Quicklock gate • 81g

Buy DMM Rhino from Alpine Trek.co.uk

Slings and quickdraws

DMM Dyneema sling

Reasons to Buy: basic lanyard, nothing to go wrong Reasons to Avoid : some might find they need a greater degree of adjustment

Dyneema has several advantages over traditional nylon webbing – it’s incredibly light and strong, less susceptible to UV degradation and is more abrasion resistant. I use this sling as my personal lanyard between harness carabiner and the ascender. You need to find a sling that can be adjusted to your own personal reach length. I double this one over to give me the correct length.

Specifications • 11mm Dyneema tape • 120cm • Strength: 22kN

Buy DMM Dyneema sling from GOOutdoors.co.uk

Multi Chain Evo Daisychain

Reasons to Buy: gives a greater degree of adjustment than a simple sling, easy to use Reasons to Avoid : Costs more than a simple sling

A daisy chain is a versatile alternative to the above single sling option. You can use this to adjust lengths for multiple applications, which might be ideal if more than one of you will be using it to climb the rig, especially if you’re notably different heights. Obviously there’s a cost implication as it’s four times the costs a basic dyneema sling.

Specifications • 90g • Tensile strength: 24 kN • Dyeema loops

Buy Multi Chain Evo from AlpineTrek.co.uk

Beal Nylon Sling

Reasons to Buy: a budget way to get a good quality footloop, can be used for a multitude of other tasks Reasons to Avoid : some prefer a rigid foot section to their footloop, not as easy to adjust as a dedicated footloop

A basic Nylon loop, ideal for use on a multitude of climbing uses, I personally use this as my footloop. I have two of them. They are cow-hitched onto the bottom of my ascender, one is tucked away and the other used for climbing. When I reach working height I use the second loop to stand up with both feet or to wrap one around the mast. It’s very handy to have two of these.

Specifications • length 120cm • width 16mm

Buy Beal Nylon Sling from GoOutdoors.co.uk

PETZL –  Footape – Foot loop sling

Reasons to Buy: Adjustable footloop with a decent foot spreader to avoid your foot being squashed under tension Reasons to Avoid : a bit more pricey than a basic loop, designed solely as a footloop so not suitable for other jobs

Specifications • 65g – 20mm webbing • Minimum length 84cm • Maximum length 125cm

Buy Petzl Foot loop sling from AlpineTrek.co.uk

Black Diamond Quickdraw

Reasons to Buy: really handy for carrying kit or gear aloft, useful for tethering yourself in place to hold you while you work Reasons to Avoid : none

Wire gate and solid gate carabiners. quick and easy to clip to a harness and then to secure tools, gear, or yourself to a solid point while you work at height.

Specifications • 103g • 12cm sling

Buy Black Diamond Quick Draw from Decathlon

DMM Quickdraw Shadow

Two solid gates on an 18cm sling. Quickdraws comes in a variety of wire and solid gate styles with a variety of sling lengths. You can buy them in multipacks or individually.

Specifications • 113g • 18cm sling

Buy DMM Shadow quickdraw from GoOutdoors

How to climb a mast: Step by step guide

Don’t forget to use your own judgement when following our advice, or use a professional. Here’s our full disclaimer.  

Further reading on mast climbing methods and equipment

How to climb a mast safely at sea – masterclass with Pip Hare

Mast Climbing for short handed crews

7 mast climbing kits on test

12 Bosun’s chairs tested

What happens when you dismast in the antarctic

Enjoyed reading Climbing a mast – best climbing gear & practical guide?

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How To: Sailboat Mast Climbing Guide

Climbing your sailboat mast can be an easy and enjoyable activity. With the right equipment and information you will successfully be able to access all exterior parts of your mast. In this guide, I will teach you how to climb your mast with confidence. As with so many activities on a boat, safety must be your top priority when climbing your mast.

Regardless of your crew situation, the equipment necessary to safely climb your mast is basically the same: two halyards, a bosun's chair, and some form of harness. You can be hoisted by crew or ascend using an ascension device. The particular equipment you choose is up to your preference and budget.

Sailors die every year from improper climbing techniques. By doing your due diligence, you will be ready to safely climb your mast. Ascending your mast is not the time for cursory preparation, so you must double up on all safety equipment. Redundancy is key. Don't put yourself in a position where a single failure of equipment could mean your death.

I have been up my sailboat mast half a dozen times and have never felt unsafe or afraid while aloft. By always following thorough safety precautions and having solid communication with my crew, I actually enjoy going up the mast. It gives me perspective of my vessel and the surrounding area that is normally out of view. I hope this guide helps you enjoy your first time climbing your sailboat mast, as well.

I am not an expert on climbing sailboat masts. I do not know the condition or quality of your equipment. It is your responsibility to ensure your safety and the safety of your crew. This is solely a guide to help you feel better informed on this topic.

Table of contents

The Crewed Climber

The most basic way to climb a mast is to have a crew member crank you up using a winch. This method requires you to have a crew member on board with the brawn and willingness to do that job. If you are lucky enough to have a beefy, willing crew member then this section is for you.

Primary Safety Equipment (w/Crew)

• Bosun's Chair
• Main Halyard

Your primary safety equipment will consist of a bosun's chair  (or equivalent) connected to a halyard. Ideally the halyard will be one that does not have a free-standing block at the top of the mast. Your main halyard will likely be your best option for your primary line.

Feed your primary line through your bosun's chairs double d-rings and secure using a bowline knot. Tying your halyard to your bosun's chair will eliminate possible failure at the halyard shackle.

Once you have tied your primary line to your bosun's chair using a bowline knot, clip the halyard shackle to the d-rings as a redundant safety measure.

Prior to using your bosun's chair, be sure to read the instruction manual for your particular model so that you are properly secured within the chair.

Secondary Safety Equipment (w/Crew)

• Secondary line

On my sailboat, my husband and I have climbing harnesses that we use as backup to our bosun's chair. A foul weather harness will work for this application as well.

Put on the harness prior to getting into the bosun's chair. Just as with the primary line, use a bowline knot to secure the second halyard to your harness. On my sailboat, I use the spinnaker halyard as my secondary line. You may have a line better suited for the job such as a removable topping lift.

Which Winch?

Now that you have your primary and secondary gear set up, it's time to deal with the working end of your primary and secondary lines.

Due to the variation in block, winch, and cleat locations from boat to boat, it is difficult to give exact directions for how to set up your lines. On board my vessel we use the main halyard as our primary line. The main halyard runs out of our lower mast, through several blocks and back to our cockpit. We run the primary line back to our starboard jib sheet winch because it is self-tailing and has two speeds. Our secondary line runs back to the port jib sheet winch.

In this method it is necessary for both winches to be self-tailing.

Whichever line you choose to use as your primary line, you will need to find as unobstructed a path as possible for that line to join with your winch. Use blocks as needed to create a chafe-free path for your primary.

Every time I have climbed our mast, my husband has been below at the winch. Even though we use a winch that is self tailing, whenever possible we have a friend tailing the primary line. This additional safety precaution prevents line slippage and a possible accident.

The Hoisting Begins

You now have your harness on with your secondary line attached and you are in the bosun's chair with the primary line attached. It's time to test the system's strength. First, have your winch handler take out any slack in the primary line while you stand with knees bent at the mast base. Have your mate cleat off the primary line. Then, test the strength of it all by bouncing a few times in the bosun's chair.

It might seem silly bouncing around in the bosun's chair just above the deck, but it sure makes me feel better knowing that I have already put more stress on the system than I will at any other point during my climb.

Feeling confident that all systems are go, your crew member will begin cranking on the winch from the cockpit. Being raised up the mast can take a while. Be sure to wear shoes and gloves so that if you decide to assist in your ascension, you don't end up with paint slivers in your hands and feet.

Your crew member will crank you up a few feet at a time or perhaps a few inches at a time, depending on their vigor. Every time they pause on the primary winch, they will pull in slack on the secondary. They must secure the primary line prior to attending to the secondary. This will ensure that if your primary fails you will only drop a short distance onto your secondary line.

Once you have reached your working point on your mast, your crew member below will cleat off both lines. Your winch handler will surely feel like it's nap time but their job isn't over yet. While you're working, be sure your crew member stays attentive in case you realize you don't have the necessary tools for the job or you are ready to descend.

I have been at the top of my mast only to realize that I need a flat head instead of a Phillips, or electrical tape, or a multimeter. It's beyond frustrating to be at the top of the mast and realize that you forgot something or don't have what you need.

To save the arms of your cranking crewmember, bring a long piece of string in the pocket of your bosons chair. If you realize you need an additional tool, you can lower the string to your crew member and they will tie on the forgotten item for you to pull up. If you happen to be particularly forgetful, it would be clever to employ a canvas bag to receive the tools.

I have found that it's difficult to see the top of my mast while sitting in the bosun's chair even when it's fully raised. I remedy this by bringing a looped piece of webbing (a sling) which I connect with a carabiner to the top of my mast. I then step into the piece of webbing which raises me high enough to see the top of the mast .

The Fun Part

One of the most enjoyable parts of climbing the mast is coming back down. The work is done and now you get to enjoy a smooth, steady descent to deck level.

It's essential that your crew member below wear gloves for this part of the job. I recommend gloves for the entire job but certainly for this bit.

From the cockpit, your crew member will uncleat the secondary line and remove that line from it's winch. Your crew member will then take the line out of the self-tailing mechanism on the primary winch while maintaining a firm grip on the line. They will slowly let out the primary line while keeping three wraps on the winch. Continue slowly releasing line until all crew are deck side.

To aid in exiting the bosun's chair I recommend descending until you are sitting on deck. The extra slack will help you remove yourself from the bosun's chair as gracefully as possible.

The Crewless Climber

Knowing how to climb your mast independently is invaluable, even if you never sail solo. Lifting an adult using a winch can be difficult, time consuming, and tiring. By having the right equipment you can climb your mast with very little to no assistance.

Primary Safety Equipment (Solo)

There are many types of products on the market to help you climb the mast. There are ladders which utilize your mainsail mast track, webbing loops raised to the mast top using the main halyard, and permanently installed mast steps. Alternatively, there are devices which attach directly to the main halyard which allows you to climb the halyard. I'm going to refer to any device that is used to climb the halyard as an "ascension device".

Regardless of the ascension device you choose, these items are essential:

• Ascension Device
• 3 Climbing Carabiners
• 2 Foot Slings

Secondary Safety Equipment (Solo)

• Secondary Line
• 1 Climbing Carabiner

Sailboats are not all rigged the same. You may find that your spinnaker halyard is your only option for the secondary line. On some vessels, the topping lift will be the best option. You will need to determine which line works best for you.

Using The Ascension Device

The ladder style ascension devices are fairly self-explanatory. If you know how to climb a ladder, you're all set. So, I will not go into their use here. In this section, I will explain how to use a rock climbing ascension device to climb your mast.

This is an example of a rock climbing ascension device:

Beth lives on board her 1983 30ft S2 sailboat with her husband, 6 year-old son, and her two fur babies. She has been sailing and boating for most of her life. Beth has been blessed to experience cruising in the Great Lakes, the Bahamas, and in Alaska. She loves to travel and adores living on her tiny boat with her family.

by this author

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Going Up the Mast Alone

A certain appeal of sailing is its seeming limitlessness. One can spend a lifetime perfecting navigation skills. Remember Marvin Creamer, who circumnavigated by the ancient Polynesian method of memorizing the relationships of stars? He carried no instruments, not even a compass.

Even more mundane aspects of sailing confound us with myriad possibilities. Take going up the mast. There are lots of ways to make the short trip nobody enjoys.

For going up alone, one can choose from mast steps, web ladders, adaptations of mountain-climbing equipment or mechanical contrivances utilizing gears or tackle.

Whatever method you choose, thought must be given to the question of whether you want the capability of going up the mast while underway with the mainsail set. Reaching the top while tied securely to a dock or at anchor on a quiet morning is one thing. Going aloft with the mainsail in the way is another.

With the main set, steps can be used only when ascending along the front side of the mainmast. Web ladders can’t be used at all because their slides fit in the mainsail track.

In the recent July 1 issue, the nine currently available mast steps were reviewed. Included were fixed, folding and demountable steps. Also extolled was a device called a Saf Brak, a short cam cleat-equipped strop for use with a harness or boatswains chair.

To complete the examination of devices to travel up and down your mast, undertaken here is a look at two mast ladders made of webbing, another device called the Mastlift (a little like a chain fall) and, because of a readers suggestion, a rundown on a professional riggers way of doing it.

Mast Ladders The two ladders-Capt. Als and the Mast Mate-are made of very strong webbing. Each is hoisted to the masthead with a halyard. Sail slides to fit your mast track and shackled to the vertical length of webbing help keep the ladder close to the mast.

Mast Mate uses powerful 2″ nylon-Dacron blend webbing for both the single vertical strap and the steps. The steps have double layers of webbing. Gary Wheeler, who developed Mast Mate, said the special webbing has no memory, so it stows and deploys very nicely, with the steps standing open. The steps are 17″ apart. There are double steps 3′ from the top; they can be placed higher if desired.

Wheeler recommends that a downhaul be rigged and made taut to give the Mast Mate good vertical stability.

Capt. Als uses three vertical 1″ all-Dacron straps, which also support PVC tubing on the steps. Compared with Mast Mates all-web step, the PVC tubing on Capt. Als helps a bit when you insert a foot. The tubing also makes fine handholds.

Alan Byer, president of Capt. Als Products, Inc., said the ladder has recently been re-engineered. The web loop at the top end has been replaced with a high tensile stainless ring and the steps have been made 12″ apart rather than the prior 15″. The 12″ steps are an especially good idea for those with short legs or whose long ones are no longer quite as flexible.

Most importantly, instead of mast slides sewn to the webbing (by your sailmaker), Capt. Als now has brass grommets, reinforced with stitching, at 24″ intervals to which sail slides are to be attached with small, loose-pin shackles. (The grommet system has always been used by Mast Mate, which furnishes nylon shackles; you supply the sail slides.)

There is but a moderate load on the grommets and shackles; the principal load is on the halyard.

The real advantage of the grommet/shackle arrangement vs. sewn-in-place slides is that if you change boats, you can, if necessary, easily change the sail slides.

Capt. Als sells for $148 for a 36′ version, $198.89 for the 50′ model. The Mast Mate is $250 for a 35-footer, $350 for the 50′. Both come in custom lengths and with bags.

While convenient, the downside of these two ladders is that they can’t be used underway. The mainsail must be lowered first; in fact, unless you have a gate above the lowered main, you may have to remove it entirely.

The Mastlift A different approach to mast-climbing is the Mastlift imported by IMTA. It has parts made in Switzerland, is assembled in Spain and sold by a German company. Its a slick but very expensive drum-shaped gear box that is attached to a halyard (or better, two halyards) and hoisted to the masthead while a line on a reel is retained initially at deck level. Fasten your harness or chair to the line (5/16″ Spectra with a breaking strength of close to five tons) and use a separate line, a continuous long loop fitted to a ratchet wheel, to enjoy a 10-1 advantage for hoisting yourself. It takes about 10 minutes to rig. The Mastlift wont get you eye level with the top of your mast, but hardly anything does.

The Mastlift has a worm gear drive and two automatic brakes, so you need not keep tension on the continuous control line. Reversing the pull on the loop brings you down.

An important advantage of the Mastlift is that it also can be used on the end of a boom as a lifting device. Made of stainless, anodized aluminum and high impact plastic, the Mastlift for masts up to 45′ costs $995 and weighs 15 lbs. The large one for masts to 82′ costs $1,195 and weighs 17 lbs. You get every three years a free courtesy inspection of ratchets, brake pads, etc. Available as an extra is a thick neoprene cover ($40) to prevent damage from swinging around. Unfortunately, it covers just the sides and not the ends of the drum. To keep the Mastlift entirely away from the mast, a roller device (a stainless bridle with wood rollers) permits you to hoist the Mastlift on the jib stay with the sail furled; it sells for $60. Mastlifts boatswains chair ($166) is sturdy, but it wouldnt be our choice; wed use a soft chair like a Lirakis or Raudaschl. (Bosuns chairs were reviewed in the January 15, 1993 and August 15, 1993 issues.)

We could not find for this review a device called the Topclimber, that utilizes a static line, moveable hand grippers and a set of stirrups. It once was handled by Luna Industries, a Canadian firm, but their telephone answering machine states that they no longer handle the Topclimber.

Home-Made Chair & Tackle But heres another approach, prompted by a letter from a reader, Michael Spencer of Duluth, Minnesota, who asked, How do real riggers do it? He had asked a professional rigger, who described a system involving two fiddle blocks and a length of 5/8″ line five times the height of the mast. But the rigger issued so many warnings and admonishments, Spencer is being rightfully cautious. So, he wrote us.

Weve been admiring our riggers system for some years now. Tim Leery of Portsmouth, Rhode Island told us that he copied his chair and tackle from others and it too has been copied. Like Mr. Spencers rigger, Tim has 4:1 purchase, but does not use fiddle blocks. Schaefer 3″ side-by-side double blocks, one with a becket and both with shackles make up the purchase. What distinguishes Tims setup is the big teak cleat bolted to the lower block with 1/4″ x 40 machine screws and nuts (see photo), for belaying his 300′ of 7/16″ Regatta braid. (Note that he does not use a stopper, clutch or cam, Clam or jam cleat.)

To use, he secures the shackle (not a snap shackle!) to a halyard led over an internal masthead sheave (never a block suspended from a crane!). Then he gets into the chair and begins hauling. Though hes only lifting about 25% of his weight, he says it does require some arm strength. For less effort, the purchase could be increased to 5:1 or 6:1 by using one triple/double or triple/triple block combinations, the disadvantages being that the hauling line gets proportionally longer and thered be increased friction.

To secure himself when he stops, Tim belays the lifting line on the teak cleat bolted to the block. Then, he runs a 4′ pennant around the mast and back to his chair, securing it with a carabiner. This pennant not only keeps him from swinging, it will stop his fall at the first obstruction, such as the spreaders.

Working from a swinging chair isn’t easy. Tim recommends installing two steps near the masthead for foot placement. This enables one to actually work at masthead level by getting a little higher; the blocks with chair stop a little short of letting you get your head above the masthead.

Because Tim works alone, he does not have a safety line in the form of another halyard attached to a harness. When a helper is available, this is a good idea. That person should take the halyard end to a winch or give it a half-turn on a cleat and trim as the rigger ascends. When the rigger descends, the helper should pay out line, keeping some tension and friction on the winch or cleat.

Weve been up the mast many times with a helper or two grinding and tailing a winch below, and frankly, its always made us nervous. Paranoia sets in. What happens, for example, if a bee stings the tailer? Or he gets a cramp or simply relaxes his grip when he spots Willow Bay on a passing boat?

Most professional riggers we know, including Tim Leery, prefer to take themselves up rather than rely on deckhands.

The Bottom Line Now to summarize both the July 1 review of steps and this examination of the ladders and other means of going to the masthead, the choices in steps remain the same: Fixed or folding.

The fixed types are basically the old $16.99 Ronstan, which is small and snag-free, or triangular-shaped pieces of stainless steel or aluminum that are fastened with screws or rivets. They hold the feet captive, a good feeling in a seaway. But, halyards inevitably foul on them. We think the best of the triangles is the $26.99 Pace-Edwards, an excellent aluminum extrusion that can be fastened with aluminum rivets.

The folding types-the $14.50 Mast Walker (made by Damage Control) and a nearly-identical $15.99 step made by ABI-present less of a corner for halyards to catch, but are simply pegs that despite a lip at the end, don’t hold the foot captive.

The final choice in steps are the de-mountable Fasteps, which sell for $12.95. Used in conjunction with the previously mentioned Saf Brak, which sells for $68.95, we think the Fastep/Saf Brak combination is the best choice in steps. Besides providing automatic safety against falling, the Saf Brak keeps the climber close to the mast.

For web ladders, theres little to choose between the Mast Mate and Capt. Als. With either, the tendency to swing around is nerve wracking. Still, we keep one aboard. The manufacturers of these web ladders talk about hoisting them on any halyard or even a topping lift, but note that the professional rigger will not go aloft on anything that does not go over a fixed masthead sheave. One also should periodically check the sewing.

Of the Mastlift, its an expensive but solidly engineered solution to a problem that can be solved less extravagantly-unless you want to use it for other lifting purposes. Backed up by a Saf Brak, it provides an extraordinary feeling of security. We exercised it a number of times while repairing lights and instruments on Viva, our Tartan 44 test boat (see photo) and with each usage, confidence climbed higher and higher.

Finally, if youre inclined to go often to the masthead without anyone to help, consider rigging your own tackle, but as a safeguard buy and figure out how to rig a Saf Brak. A photo of the Saf Brak is in the July 1 issue.

Again, a reminder about going aloft while underway.

Going up a bare mast with sturdy gear while tied to a dock on a calm morning is not difficult-just nervous.

Doing so while underway, with the mainsail set, is a much more demanding feat. You cannot reach the masthead with the mainsail set using steps unless you go up along the forward edge of the mast. You cannot go up with either web ladders, because they mount in the mainmast track. You could rig the Mastlift, but were not sure how it would be with that 15-pound canister swinging around up there. You can go aloft with a block and tackle of your own assembly, but unless you use a Saf Brak on a separate line, you have nothing to prevent you from swinging around.

Our choice? We like the ability to go it alone and not depend on the strength and concentration of crew below, especially-and we don’t mean to be sexist here-a small woman. If we had the bucks, wed buy the Mastlift. If not, the home-made riggers tackle would satisfy us nicely. With any of these systems-steps, ladders or tackle-wed definitely use the Saf Brak. For about $70, it is, we think, the best insurance you can buy.

Contacts- ABI, 1160A Industrial Ave., Petaluma, CA 94952; 707/765-6200. Capt. Als Products, PO Box 370153, West Hartford, CT 06137-0153; 860/232-9065. Defender Industries, Inc., 42 Great Neck Road, Waterford, CT 06385; 800/628-8225. Fastep & Saf Brak, Alfred Gilbert Enterprises, 2921 Wood Pipe Lane, Philadelphia, PA 19129; 215/849-4016. Mastlift, IMTA, 326 First St., Suite 17, Annapolis, MD 21403; 800/606-0589. Mast Mate, Box 5035, Augusta, ME, 04332, 800/548-0436. Mast Walker, Damage Control, 7670 Bay St., Pasadena, MD 21122-3433; 410/360-2445. Pace-Edwards, 2400 Commercial Blvd., Centralia, WA 98531; 800/338-3697. Ronstan, 7600 Bryan Dairy Rd., Largo, FL 33777; 813/545-1911. Schaefer Marine, 158 Duchaine, New Bedford, MA 02745-1293; 508/995-9511. West Marine, 500 Westridge Dr., Watsonville, CA 95076; 800/262-8464.

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Yachting World

• Digital Edition

Video: is this the most exciting thing you can do with your crew?

• Harriett Ferris
• May 17, 2016

This video of a crew halyard swinging aboard a First 40 went viral on our Facebook page. Here's the story on how they did it...

Scroll down for video

How to swing aboard the First 40 Sailplane – the video that went viral on Yachting World’s Facebook page . We spoke to Joe Bottomley, the boat’s self-appointed ‘chief of halyard swinging’ to find out how they did it:

‘Attach a fender to the end of two spinnaker halyards or a pole topping lift and jib halyard. Adjust so the fender is as high as possible, one person per fender. Motor as fast as possible in a straight line.

‘Once up to speed, put the helm down hard to starboard. The stern will take a couple of seconds to kick and you will feel it when the rudder catches and suddenly the stern will swing right out. This is when they should jump.

‘At this point you want to knock the throttle into neutral as this will put the forward energy into sideways energy once the jumpers start to fly out to the side.

‘Now here’s the most important part, and where it begins to become dangerous. Jump too early and you narrowly avoid the stern of the boat if it kicks in early, and too late you will end up hitting the bow.

‘If you want to go for the record, you need somebody really mad to get round the front of the forestay. This happened during our video – the other three fell off, which catapulted our record jumper round the bow.’

For other stunts whilst sailing, head over to our Video page, where we have a collection of the craziest stunts on sailing boats .

Things to double check for:

• Sharp clips on shackles when connecting the fenders to the halyard
• Boats close by
• Swimming abilities
• Making sure your jumpers aren’t scared- it gets pretty high
• Securing everything down below
• Get plenty of action shots!

• Navigating the High Seas: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Masts

Sailboat masts are the unsung heroes of the sailing world, silently supporting the sails and ensuring a smooth journey across the open waters. Whether you're a seasoned sailor or a novice, understanding the intricacies of sailboat masts is essential for a safe and enjoyable voyage. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of sailboat masts, discussing their types, maintenance, and everything in between. 

Types of Sailboat Masts

Sailboat masts come in various configurations, each with its advantages and drawbacks. The two primary types are keel-stepped and deck-stepped masts.

Keel-Stepped Masts

Keel-stepped masts are the most common type, extending through the deck and resting on the boat's keel. They provide excellent stability and are suitable for larger sailboats. However, they require careful maintenance to prevent water intrusion into the boat's cabin.

Deck-Stepped Masts

Deck-stepped masts rest on the deck of the boat, making them easier to install and remove. They are commonly found on smaller sailboats and are more forgiving in terms of maintenance. However, they may offer slightly less stability than keel-stepped masts.

Components of a Sailboat Mast

To understand mast maintenance better, it's essential to know the various components of a sailboat mast. The key parts include the masthead, spreaders, shrouds, and halyard sheaves.

The masthead is the topmost section of the mast, where the halyards are attached to raise and lower the sails. It also often houses instruments such as wind indicators and lights.

Spreaders and Shrouds

Spreaders are horizontal supports attached to the mast to help maintain the proper angle of the shrouds (cables or rods that provide lateral support to the mast). Properly adjusted spreaders and shrouds are crucial for mast stability and sail performance.

Mast Materials: Choosing the Right One

Sailboat masts are typically constructed from three primary materials: aluminum, wood, and carbon fiber. Each material has its unique characteristics and is suited to different sailing preferences.

Aluminum Masts

Aluminum masts are lightweight, durable, and relatively easy to maintain. They are commonly used in modern sailboats due to their cost-effectiveness and longevity.

Wooden Masts

Wooden masts, while classic and beautiful, require more maintenance than other materials. They are best suited for traditional or vintage sailboats, where aesthetics outweigh convenience.

Carbon Fiber Masts

Carbon fiber masts are the pinnacle of mast technology. They are incredibly lightweight and strong, enhancing a sailboat's performance. However, they come at a premium price.

Mast Maintenance

Proper mast maintenance is essential for safety and longevity. Regular cleaning, inspection, and addressing minor issues promptly can prevent costly repairs down the line.

Cleaning and Inspection

Regularly clean your mast to remove salt, dirt, and grime. Inspect it for signs of corrosion, wear, or damage, paying close attention to the masthead, spreaders, and shrouds.

Common Repairs and Their Costs

Common mast repairs include fixing corroded areas, replacing damaged spreaders, or repairing shrouds. The cost of repairs can vary widely, depending on the extent of the damage and the materials used.

Extending the Lifespan of Your Mast

Taking steps to prevent damage is essential. Avoid over-tightening halyards, protect your mast from UV radiation, and keep an eye on corrosion-prone areas.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Check out our latest sailing content:

Stepping and unstepping a mast.

Stepping and unstepping a mast is a crucial skill for any sailboat owner. This process involves removing or installing the mast on your boat. Here's a step-by-step guide for safe mast handling.

Step-by-Step Guide for Safe Mast Handling

• Gather the necessary tools and equipment.
• Disconnect all electrical and rigging connections.
• Use a crane or mast-stepping system to safely lower or raise the mast.
• Secure the mast in its proper place.
• Reconnect all electrical and rigging connections.

When and Why to Unstep a Mast

You may need to unstep your mast for various reasons, such as transporting your sailboat or performing extensive maintenance. It's crucial to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and ensure a safe unstepping process.

Sailboat Mast Boot: Protecting Your Mast

A mast boot is a simple yet effective way to protect your mast from water intrusion and damage caused by the elements. Here's what you need to know.

The Purpose of a Mast Boot

A mast boot is a flexible material that wraps around the mast at the deck level. It prevents water from entering the cabin through the mast opening, keeping your boat dry and comfortable.

Installing and Maintaining a Mast Boot

Installing a mast boot is a straightforward DIY task. Regularly inspect and replace it if you notice any signs of wear or damage.

Replacing a Sailboat Mast

Despite your best efforts in maintenance, there may come a time when you need to replace your sailboat mast. Here's what you should consider.

Signs That Your Mast Needs Replacement

Common signs include severe corrosion, structural damage, or fatigue cracks. If your mast is beyond repair, it's essential to invest in a replacement promptly.

The Cost of Mast Replacement

The cost of mast replacement can vary significantly depending on the type of mast, materials, and additional rigging needed. It's advisable to obtain multiple quotes from reputable marine professionals.

Yacht Masts: Sailing in Style

For those looking to take their sailing experience to the next level, upgrading to a yacht mast can be a game-changer.

Differences Between Sailboat and Yacht Masts

Yacht masts are typically taller and offer enhanced sail performance. They are often equipped with advanced rigging systems and technology for a more luxurious sailing experience.

Upgrading to a Yacht Mast

Consult with a marine professional to determine if upgrading to a yacht mast is feasible for your sailboat. It can be a significant investment but can transform your sailing adventures.

Sailboat Mast Steps: Climbing to the Top

Mast steps are handy additions to your mast, allowing easier access to perform maintenance or enjoy panoramic views. Here's how to use them safely.

Using Mast Steps Safely

Always use proper safety equipment when climbing mast steps. Make sure they are securely attached to the mast and regularly inspect them for wear or damage.

The Advantages of Mast Steps

Mast steps provide convenience and accessibility, making sailboat maintenance tasks more manageable. They also offer an elevated vantage point for breathtaking views while at anchor.

Mast Maintenance Tips for Beginners

If you're new to sailboat ownership, these mast maintenance tips will help you get started on the right foot.

Essential Care for First-Time Sailboat Owners

• Establish a regular maintenance schedule.
• Seek advice from experienced sailors.
• Invest in quality cleaning and maintenance products.

Preventing Common Mistakes

Avoid common pitfalls, such as neglecting inspections or using harsh cleaning agents that can damage your mast's finish.

Sailing with a Mast in Top Condition

A well-maintained mast contributes to a safer and more enjoyable sailing experience. It enhances your boat's performance and ensures you can rely on it in various weather conditions.

How a Well-Maintained Mast Improves Performance

A properly maintained mast helps maintain sail shape, reducing drag and improving speed. It also ensures that your rigging remains strong and secure.

Safety Considerations

Never compromise on safety. Regularly inspect your mast, rigging, and all associated components to prevent accidents while at sea.

Sailboat masts are the backbone of any sailing adventure, and understanding their intricacies is crucial for a successful voyage. From choosing the right mast material to proper maintenance and upgrading options, this guide has covered it all. By following these guidelines, you can sail the high seas with confidence, knowing that your mast is in top condition.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. Contact me.

Denisa Kliner Nguyenová

My Cruiser Life Magazine

How to Climb a Mast – Is a Mast Ladder Worth It?

One of the inevitable parts of owning a sailboat is climbing the mast. Some people enjoy this task. For them, it’s another part of the adventure. But I am not one of those people.

For me, there is only one task that is worse than going up the mast. I will spare you the gory details, but it may surprise you to learn that it does not involve the toilet. That’s right, climbing the mast is worse for me than dealing with toilet issues.

Mast climbing is made even worse due to my trust issues. While I usually have two or more people around to winch me up, I don’t trust any of them. Not my wife, not the weirdo from the next dock, and not the “professionals” I know who would be willing to help. 

So I set out to learn how to do it myself. I am by no means an expert, but I have successfully climbed up and back many times now on several boats. I can do it myself if needed, but I still like having a helper around to hear my screams and fetch me tools.

Table of Contents

Safety first, self-climbing gear — block and tackle climbers.

• ATN Mast Climber 

Hoistable Sailboat Mast Ladder

Mast climber sailboat options for every boat, mast ladder and mast climbing faqs, how to climb a mast with two people.

Before diving into how a solo sailor might climb up the rig, let’s look at how most people tackle the problem. The traditional sailor’s solution is the lowly bosun’s chair. 

The bosun’s chair is simply a board attached to wide nylon webbing that you can sit on. The webbing is attached to a halyard, and the halyard is winched up the mast by someone on deck. 

• Add custom text here

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Bosun’s chairs vary in features. Some are as simple as a board with straps. Others are much more secure and comfortable, with a back to keep your bum in place and straps around your thighs to ensure it does not slip. Of course, the more secure and comfortable it is, the easier it is to do projects with two hands. Many sailors like to use a climbing safety harness

It takes quite a lot of winching for the deckhand to get you to the top. It’s the only job on my sailboat that makes me wish for an electric winch, actually.

Going up the mast is all about planning and playing the “what if” game. For safety, please make sure everyone involved knows their roles. It’s advisable to put someone on the winch who is well-versed in cleat hitches, clutches, self-tailing or non-self-tailing, and whatever else you’ve got going on. Shouting about which line to secure where and how is the last thing you want to do as you swing 50 feet off the deck.

Always have a safety line. Yes, it increases your work and gives you one more thing to worry about. But it just might save your bacon. 

Don’t forget to plan out precisely what you’re going to be doing once you get where you’re going. Walk through every action you need to take. 

Make sure you take all of the tools you need—and might need—with you. I like to take as much as I can in a close-fitting messenger or sling bag. The only thing worse than mast climbing is doing it multiple times. Of course, you can have your helper send tools and parts up and down with a bucket, but it adds complexity to the operation and lots of potential to be aggravated.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Lucy, Matt, Chelsea (@boatlifelarks)

How to Climb a Mast Solo

All of this is well and good if you have a helper, but what if there is no one around? Solo mast climbing requires even more planning out and thinking. The same rules apply, but now you’ve got to figure out how to get to the top without anyone else’s help.

A safety line is essential even with these options, so plan accordingly.

The top ways for a solo sailboat mast climber to accomplish the task are listed below.

• Block and tackle self-climbers
• Climbing ascenders, like the ATN Mast Climber
• Fixed mast steps
• Hoistable sailboat mast ladders

Professional riggers have been going up masts by themselves for a long time, so it’s no wonder that they’d have some pretty good systems worked out. While some depend on a ground-side helper to winch them up, many prefer the freedom of using a custom-made block and tackle setup. 

If you want to go this route, you’ll want to be very good with rope handling and marlinspike seamanship. You’ll also need to invest in some nice hardware. Most sailing stuff comes marked “not for human climbing.”

Most of these setups attach to the boat’s halyard. You then hoist one end of the setup to the top of the mast, and the other end is attached to your bosun’s chair at deck level. The bitter end is with the chair, and it includes a jammer or stopper. There’s enough purchase in the system to make hoisting yourself up a relatively simple maneuver. 

These systems can’t get you right up to the top of the mast, but this is a weak point for most climbers.

ATN Mast Climber

A slightly slicker version of the same idea is the ATN Mast Climber . This gadget is pulled right from the rock climbing world. Out of the box, you need no other rigging or parts to make it work. 

Instead of hoisting anything up, the Mast Climber attaches onto an existing static line. Tie a halyard to the deck, and winch a bit to get the line taut. The Mast Climber then attaches to that line for the climb up. It’s easiest if the line isn’t perfectly vertical. I like to attach mine to the coachroof handrails. Being able to attach it anywhere on deck means you can position yourself to best reach whatever you need to work on.

The Mast Climber has two parts: the bosun’s chair climbing harness and the foot straps. Each attaches to your mast line with the climbing equivalent of a rope clutch. With a squeeze, they let you move freely up the rope. But once you release your grip, your weight jams them locked onto the line. 

It takes a little practice to use the Mast Climber, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll be going up in no time. To my surprise, coming down is actually a little more challenging because it requires different timing and spacing than going up does. One tip–always wear sturdy shoes and gloves.

The no-brainer solution for salty bluewater solo sailors is to install mast steps. These fixed metal steps attach to each side of the mast and allow you to climb up just like a regular ladder. 

The steps are small, and you’ll need a safety line as well. But they do enable you to climb up the mast any time without having to get more equipment or worry too much about it. And short of falling off, they’re better fool-proof and easy to use. 

Unfortunately, they are always there – and not exactly pretty. It’s a lot of hardware on your mast, which increases weight and windage aloft. From the installation side, putting them on is a big and expensive project that requires drilling many holes in your beautiful aluminum spar.

You might opt to install only a few steps to help you with other climbing systems. For example, many sailors install a pair or two at the masthead. Then when they arrive with their bosun’s chair or a self-climber, they have something solid to stand on. If the steps are positioned high enough, they’ll even enable you to work on the masthead.

A mast ladder is a hoistable ladder made of webbing. It goes up on the mast on your halyard and attaches into the mast track just like your mainsail—with slides.

Recovery Marine

• 50 Foot Mast Ladder
• Steps Double Reinforced
• Easy to Use Mast Ladder
• Man Overboard Ladder

Kinleven Marine Mast Ladder

This is probably the nicest hoistable mast ladder on the market. It’s made-to-order for your vessel, so you’ll have to supply a few measurements from your boat to get it built just right. 

The best feature is the ladder’s rungs, which are made from sturdy and strong plastic. This gives the ladder the most solid feel of any available options. It’s like climbing a conventional ladder, more or less.

It’s also extremely stable because it is mounted on slides that match your mast track. Unfortunately, you will have to remove your mainsail to load it into the track. That’s a pain but shouldn’t take more than a few minutes. 

One of the best mast ladder sailboat owners can choose, the Mast Mate is simple and easy. Where the Kinleyen is a beautiful unit, it is custom made to fit your boat. Some sailors might favor a unit they can use on any boat, and the Mast Mate is just what the ship’s doctor ordered.

The disadvantage of webbing ladders like the Mast Mate is that the steps are made of webbing, too. That can make it hard to get a good foothold, and it’s far from comfortable. However, it does mean that the ladder folds up into a small and light package for storage.

Like the Kinleven, the Mast Made uses mast slides to keep the ladder in place. You might have to sew your own on if the maker doesn’t supply them.

Unless your boat has a mast small enough to put up and down quickly, the day will come when you need to climb it. It’s best to practice and have the gear onboard. That way, you can tackle the task and get back to sailing.

What is a mast ladder?

A mast ladder is one method to climb the mast of a sailboat for maintenance. Sailors often need to climb the mast to inspect the rigging, replace light bulbs, service wind instruments, or free tangled lines. 

Mast ladders are made of webbing and collapse for easy storage. When you want to use it, remove your mainsail from the mast track, and insert the slides from the ladder. Hoist the ladder with your main halyard, securing the bottom and tightening the line. Use a second halyard as a safety line if you lose your footing.

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

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Sail Boat Masts: The Essential Guide for Smooth Sailing

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 1, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer sail boat masts:

Sail boat masts are vertical structures that support sails on a sailboat. They vary in material, such as wood, aluminum, or carbon fiber, and in design based on the type of sailing rig used. Masts play a crucial role in determining a sailboat’s performance and handling characteristics.

Understanding Sail Boat Masts: A Comprehensive Guide

Ah, the graceful dance of a sailboat gliding across the open waters . Few things embody the feeling of freedom and adventure quite like sailing . And at the heart of every sailboat lies a crucial component that often goes unnoticed – the mast. In this comprehensive guide, we aim to unveil the mysterious world of sailboat masts, providing you with a deeper understanding as well as some witty insights along the way.

1. What is a Sail Boat Mast? Imagine if you will, the backbone of a sailboat – tall and proud, supporting the sails that harness nature’s power to propel you forward. That, my friend, is what we refer to as the mast. It serves not only as a support structure but also plays a vital role in determining your boat’s performance and maneuverability on water .

2. Materials Matter: Masts can be crafted from various materials such as aluminum, wood, carbon fiber, or even composite materials combining these elements for optimal strength and weight ratios. Choosing the right material for your mast depends on factors like cost, weight considerations, and performance objectives. After all, every sailor knows that lighter masts lead to faster boats!

3. Rise Above: The Height Matters Did you know that taller masts tend to provide more sail area? Yes indeed! They allow sailors to harness more wind energy when reaching or downwind sailing conditions. However, there is always a trade-off since taller masts tend to increase windage (the surface area exposed to wind), potentially impacting stability in gusty weather conditions – something no sailor wants!

4. Welcome to Sections’ City: Mast structures come in various shapes and sizes; they are carefully designed by integrating multiple sections with different diameters throughout their length. Each section has its role in optimizing strength while minimizing weight aloft—an essential aspect given how higher-weighted tops can negatively impact boat balance and performance.

5. Know Thy Rig: A sailboat mast is also part of the rigging – the interconnected system of ropes, wires, and hardware that supports and controls the sails. Understanding how various components work in harmony is fundamental to maneuvering your boat efficiently . The mast interacts with everything from halyards to shrouds, stays, spreaders, and more. Alas, it’s not just a tall stick!

6. Step by Step: Stepping a Mast Stepping refers to the process of raising or lowering a mast using a crane or other mechanical means so that it’s properly secured on your boat deck. It might appear straightforward until you realize there’s an art to it! Properly stepping a mast involves aligning different elements precisely and ensuring they are tensioned correctly for optimal performance—no room for guesswork here!

7. Maintenance Matters: Just like any other component aboard your sailboat , masts need regular love and attention too! Routine inspections help identify any signs of wear or damage such as corrosion, stress fractures, or loose fittings before they escalate into bigger problems. After all, prevention is better than clinging to a snapped mast in the middle of nowhere!

As you can see dear reader, understanding sailboat masts goes far beyond their elegant appearance. They are the pillars that uphold our sailing dreams while ensuring we navigate smoothly through challenging waters . So next time you embark on an adventure onboard a sailboat – take a moment to appreciate the unsung hero that is your mast!

How to Choose the Right Sail Boat Mast for Your Vessel

When it comes to sailing, one of the most important components of your vessel is the sailboat mast. This towering structure plays a crucial role in determining the performance and handling characteristics of your boat. Choosing the right mast can make a world of difference in how well your vessel sails through the water . So, let’s take a closer look at some key factors you should consider when selecting the perfect sailboat mast for your vessel .

1. Rigidity and Flexibility: The first thing to consider is the rigidity or flexibility of the mast. A highly rigid mast allows for better control and enhanced upwind performance. On the other hand, a more flexible mast provides increased power and acceleration downwind. Understanding how these attributes affect your sailing style will help you choose a mast that suits your needs.

2. Material Composition: Sailboat masts come in various materials such as aluminum, carbon fiber, and wood composites. Each material has its own pros and cons, so it’s essential to weigh these factors against your sailing objectives. Aluminum masts are cost-effective and reliable but tend to be heavier than their counterparts. Carbon fiber masts offer excellent strength-to-weight ratio, resulting in greater speed potential but they can be expensive. Wood composites provide a classic aesthetic appeal along with good stiffness but require regular maintenance.

3. Mast Profile: The profile or shape of your sailboat mast significantly impacts its performance characteristics as well as ease of use while handling sails. Masts with elliptical profiles are popular due to their ability to reduce drag effectively and enhance agility on different points of sail compared to round masts .

4. Mast Length: Determining the appropriate length for your sailboat mast depends on several factors like boat size, intended use (racing or cruising), and expected wind conditions in your sailing area. A shorter mast gives you improved maneuverability under heavy winds while sacrificing some upwind abilities, whereas longer masts lead to enhanced performance in light wind conditions.

5. Compatibility with Sail Plan: A sailboat mast should be compatible with the sail plan of your vessel. Consult sailmakers or boat designers to ensure that the mast ‘s dimensions, such as height, base diameter, and halyard attachment points align properly with your desired sails. Matching these aspects will enable optimal power transfer and improve overall sailing efficiency.

6. Consideration for Future Upgrades: If you’re planning to upgrade or modify your sailboat in the future, think ahead when selecting a mast. Some masts offer greater compatibility for adding additional accessories like radar systems or wind generators without compromising sailing capabilities. Considering these possibilities during the initial selection can save you both time and money down the line.

Choosing the right sailboat mast is a decision that requires careful consideration of various factors affecting sailing performance, style, and long-term goals. Assessing rigidity/flexibility needs, material composition preferences, profile options, length requirements, compatibility with your sail plan, and future upgrade potential will guide you towards making an informed decision. Remember to seek advice from professionals within the sailing community who can provide valuable insights based on their experience. With a well-chosen mast on your vessel, you’ll be able to navigate through any challenging waters with grace and confidence!

A Step-by-Step Guide on Installing and Maintaining Sail Boat Masts

Are you a sailing enthusiast looking to ensure your sailboat performs at its optimal level? Look no further! In this comprehensive guide, we will take you through the step-by-step process of installing and maintaining sailboat masts. From tackling those initial installations to performing regular maintenance tasks, we’ve got you covered. So grab your captain’s hat and let’s set sail on this mast maintenance journey!

Step 1: Preparing for Installation

Before diving into the installation process, it’s imperative to gather all the necessary tools and materials. You’ll need a sturdy ladder or boat deck to access the mast safely, along with tools such as wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers. Additionally, ensure that you have any specific hardware or rigging equipment required for your particular sailboat model.

Step 2: Unraveling Mysteries – Sailboat Mast Components

Understanding the various components of a sailboat mast is crucial before proceeding any further. Key parts include the mast itself (usually constructed from aluminum or carbon fiber), spreaders (horizontal supports extending perpendicular from the mast), shrouds (vertical wires supporting the mast), stays (wires connecting the mast to other parts of the boat), and halyards (ropes used for raising and lowering sails). Familiarize yourself thoroughly with each component to prevent any mishaps during installation or maintenance.

Step 3: Raising the Mast – The Main Event

With preparations complete and an understanding of important components gained, it’s time for the main event – raising the mast! This step requires careful coordination if you’re doing it solo; hence having an extra pair of hands is highly recommended. Aligning each component accurately while cautiously hoisting can be challenging but extremely rewarding once successfully accomplished.

Step 4: Securing Connections – Ensuring Sturdiness

Now that your mast stands tall and proud, securing connections becomes paramount. Begin by firmly attaching shrouds and stays to the designated points on your sailboat ‘s deck. Use appropriate tensioning techniques, considering any instructions or guidelines specific to your boat ‘s construction. Ensuring sturdy connections will contribute significantly to the safety and functionality of your mast in the long run.

Step 5: Maintaining Mast Beauty – Routine Check-ups

Maintaining your sailboat mast’s pristine condition requires regular inspections and upkeep. Check for any signs of corrosion, damage, or wear on all components, particularly around attachment points. Cleaning with mild soap and water can help preserve its glossy appearance. Additionally, lubricate moving parts like pulleys and halyard sheaves to ensure smooth operation.

Step 6: Weathering the Storm – Preparing for Rough Seas

Sailors know that unpredictable weather conditions are part of the sailing experience. Before embarking on a boating adventure, properly secure your sailboat mast against potential storm damage. Lower sails and wrap them securely to minimize wind resistance while covering exposed mast sections with protective materials such as fabric sleeves or plastic covers.

In conclusion, installing and maintaining sailboat masts is a fundamental aspect of owning a sailboat. By following this step-by-step guide carefully, you’ll gain the confidence needed to tackle installations like a pro while keeping your mast in excellent condition throughout its lifespan. Remember, attention to detail in both installation and routine maintenance is key for optimal performance and years of enjoyable sailing experiences ! So get out there, raise those sails proudly, and let the winds guide you on unforgettable adventures !

Common FAQ About Sail Boat Masts Answered

Introduction: Sailboat masts are a critical component of any sailing vessel , providing support for the sails and helping to propel the boat through the water. However, they often come with their fair share of questions. In this blog post, we’ll tackle some common FAQs about sailboat masts and provide you with detailed professional answers that are both witty and clever.

1. What materials are sailboat masts typically made from? Sailboat masts can be made from various materials including aluminum, carbon fiber, and wood. Aluminum is commonly used due to its strength-to-weight ratio and affordability. Carbon fiber offers superior strength while being lightweight but comes at a higher cost. Wooden masts, although less common nowadays, provide a traditional aesthetic appeal.

Answer: Sailboat masts – not just “sticks in the sky,” but engineering marvels that strike a perfect balance between performance, durability, and aesthetics. Whether you prefer metallic muscle in your mast or an elegant wooden touch, the choice ultimately depends on your priorities – strong as steel or classic charm?

2. How do I choose the right mast length for my sailboat ? Selecting the appropriate mast length depends on factors such as boat size, sail area, intended use (racing/cruising), and the type of rigging system employed (sloop/cutter/ketch). The optimal mast height will ensure proper sail trim and power transfer while maintaining stability.

Answer: Ahoy there! Determining your ideal mast length requires careful consideration of various factors – like Goldilocks seeking her “just right.” Too tall a mast could have you kissing clouds; too short might leave your sails underwhelmed. Strike a balance where winds sing sweetly through taut fabric without rocking you off kilter!

3. Can I replace my sailboat’s single mast with multiple smaller masts ? While uncommon on conventional monohulled sailboats, multiple smaller masts are often seen on multihulls (catamarans and trimarans). These designs distribute the sail area across various masts to enhance stability and reduce heeling. However, retrofitting a single mast boat with multiple masts is typically impractical due to structural considerations.

Answer: Ahoy, explorer of unconventional ideas! Picture this: your magnificent monohull bedecked with multiple masts swaying in the breeze. Alas! The laws of physics dampen our imaginations; retrofitting extra masts to an existing single-masted beauty hardly holds water. But fret not, for multi-hulled vessels embrace the wind’s whimsy – poised and ever steady!

4. How do I maintain my sailboat mast ? Maintaining a sailboat mast involves regular inspection for corrosion, cracks, or any signs of wear and tear. Cleaning with mild soap and water is recommended while avoiding harsh chemicals that may degrade materials. Greasing fittings periodically ensures smooth operation, and storing the mast properly during off-seasons will prolong its lifespan.

Answer: Avast ye landlubbers! To keep your noble mast standing tall against wind’s fury, honor it with regular TLC – inspect every nook and cranny lest hidden foes sabotage your suave sailing plans! Conquer corrosive cretins by cleansing gently with nature’s elixir – soap and water. Apply grease to joints like armor-laden knights, ready to conquer calms through any clime!

Conclusion: Sailboat masts serve as emblems of both functionality and artistry, supporting the sails while adding elegance to any vessel they adorn. By addressing these common FAQs about sailboat masts with detailed professional answers presented in a witty and clever manner, we hope you now have a deeper understanding of their importance in sailing adventures. Fair winds and happy exploring!

Exploring Different Types of Sail Boat Masts: Which One is Right for You?

When it comes to sailing, one crucial component that directly affects the performance of your sailboat is the mast. A sailboat mast not only supports the sails but also plays a significant role in determining how well your vessel handles different weather conditions and navigates through the water . With various types of masts available, it can be challenging to decide which one is perfect for you and your boating needs. In this blog post, we will be delving into the world of sailboat masts, exploring their different types and helping you make an informed decision.

1. The Classic Single Mast: A tried-and-true option that has been used for centuries, the single mast offers simplicity and versatility. It consists of a single vertical spar that holds up the sails . This traditional design allows for easy handling and rigging adjustments, making it an excellent choice for beginners or sailors who prefer a straightforward setup.

2. The Fractional Rig: A fractional rig features a mast where the forestay (the wire supporting the front edge of the mainsail) doesn’t reach all the way to the top of the mast, but rather attaches at some point below its peak. This design provides better control over sail shape and makes it easier to depower in strong winds. Fractional rigs are prevalent on smaller racing boats due to their ability to handle various wind conditions effectively.

3. The Masthead Rig: Opposite to the fractional rig, a masthead rig has its forestay reaching all the way to the top of the mast, attaching directly beneath its peak. This type of rig offers excellent stability and durability while providing more power when sailing downwind or using larger headsails like genoas or jibs with long luffs. Masthead rigs are commonly found on cruising boats and larger vessels .

4. The Junk Rig: If you’re looking for something completely unique, consider exploring a junk rig – an unconventional yet fascinating design originating from Chinese sailing vessels . The junk rig uses battens to help shape the sail , and its free-standing mast is slightly inclined forward. Though less common in Western waters, the junk rig provides excellent downwind performance and requires minimal tweaking while sailing .

5. The Wing Mast: More commonly seen on high-performance racing yachts, the wing mast is a modern departure from traditional designs. Resembling an airplane wing, this mast enhances aerodynamics and minimizes drag. Wing masts are known for delivering outstanding speeds by efficiently converting wind energy into propelling force. However, they can be complex to rig and operate properly while requiring meticulous tuning.

Ultimately, the ideal type of sailboat mast depends on your intended use, personal preferences, and experience level as a sailor. If you’re just starting or prefer simplicity, the classic single mast should suit you well. For racers seeking optimal performance or cruisers looking for stability and power, fractional and masthead rigs respectively would be worth considering. Adventurous sailors with an affinity for unconventional designs may find the junk rig intriguing, whereas experienced racers might appreciate the cutting-edge efficiency of a wing mast.

By understanding these different types of sailboat masts and their respective advantages, you’ll be better equipped to make an informed decision when it comes time to choose one that’s right for you. Happy sailing!

The Role of Sail Boat Masts in Sailing Performance: What You Need to Know

Introduction:

Sailing is a fascinating activity that combines breathtaking beauty with the thrill of harnessing nature’s power. It requires not only skillful navigation and mastery of the sea but also an understanding of the intricate components that contribute to a sailboat’s performance. One such crucial element is the sailboat mast, which plays a significant role in determining how well your vessel maneuvers through water. In this blog post, we will delve into the depths of understanding and explore the importance of sailboat masts in sailing performance, enlightening you on everything you need to know.

1. The Anatomy of a Sail Boat Mast

To comprehend the impact of masts on sailing performance, let’s first dissect their anatomy. A sailboat mast typically consists of several parts, including the base or heel fitting, which connects it securely to the boat’s deck. Moving upwards, we find various sections called steps or partners that reinforce its structure while providing stability and support for other rigging components.

Atop these sections lies the critical component known as the headstay attachment point—an essential link between mast and sails—and potentially home to halyards and other lines used for raising different sails at varying heights.

2. Rigidity: A Key Factor

One crucial aspect influencing sailing performance is the rigidity or stiffness of your sailboat’s mast. A sturdy mast efficiently transfers wind energy into forward propulsion by minimizing flex or bend during gusts or heavy winds. This rigidity enables better control over your sails’ shape, optimizing their efficiency for optimal speed.

Modern masts are usually made from lightweight materials such as carbon fiber, designed to strike a balance between strength and flexibility for enhanced maneuverability without compromising durability.

3. Shape-shifting Abilities: The Bendy Masts

Now here comes an intriguing phenomenon – bendy masts! Although counterintuitive at first glance, certain types of sailing vessels employ masts specifically designed to flex under specific conditions—a feature known as mast bend or pre-bend.

Bendy masts can be angled to a predefined curvature, allowing the sail’s leading edge (luff) to retain an optimal shape even when hard sheets are pulled tight. This flexibility promotes better airflow over the sail’s surface, maximizing lift and driving force.

The technique of mast pre-bending is particularly useful in upwind sailing scenarios where sailors strive for increased power while minimizing drag. However, it necessitates careful adjustments to maintain balance, as excessive bending can negatively affect speed and maneuverability.

4. Height and Sail Area: Finding the Perfect Balance

When it comes to sailboat masts, striking the right balance between height and sail area is crucial. A taller mast grants greater leverage by elevating sails higher into wind patterns with stronger gusts. Consequently, this allows faster acceleration as more energy from the wind translates into forward motion.

However, increased mast height must also be accompanied by an appropriate expansion of sail area to maintain equilibrium and prevent excessive heeling (leaning). Too much lean not only puts stress on the boat’s structure but also reduces overall stability—both detrimental to sailing performance.

5. Mast Controls: Rigging Your Way to Success

To optimize sailing performance further, sailors have masterfully developed various controls attached to the mast known as rigging systems. These controls include halyards for raising sails and adjustable backstays used for tensioning your rigging depending on wind conditions.

Fine-tuning these controls enables sailors to adapt their boat ‘s rigidity dynamically—crucial for maintaining peak performance across different wind strengths or directions.

Conclusion:

Sailboat masts certainly hold a pivotal role in determining how effectively you navigate the vast blue expanse. Understanding their function allows you to unlock newfound potential in your vessel—a harmonious alliance between nature’s forces and human ingenuity brought together through skilled seamanship.

So next time you embark on an aquatic adventure, take a moment to appreciate the intricate design and engineering behind your sailboat’s mast—a silent hero propelling you towards new horizons of exhilarating sailing performance. Happy sailing!

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Rotating Wing Masts—Part I

By reuel parker.

Conch 32 Sail Plan

In the late 1990s it occurred to me to design a trailerable one-design racer. I was living in Key West, and I also saw this as a way to get involved in Key West Race Week, a fairly major event in the world of fast sailboats.

Most small one-design racers have fin keels and require custom trailers, necessitating the use of a crane or Travel Lift to launch and haul them. Without very much knowledge or experience with one-design classes or rating rules, I simply dove into the project. I figured that one-design boats primarily race against each other, so I could design what I wanted… and I had a lot of ideas I wanted to try.

I designed the boat and rig during winter of 1997-8, but didn’t get around to designing the mast until early 1999. I named my design CONCH 32, after the giant, tasty undersea snails indigenous to most tropical and subtropical waters (including the Florida Keys). “Conch” (pronounced “Konk”) is also the knick-name for people born and raised in the lower Keys. Long-term transplants, like myself, who become faux “natives” are referred to as “fresh-water conchs”. The name seemed appropriate for a one-design class designed specifically to be raced in the Florida Keys. Also, my office and boat shop were located in the old Singleton sea food packing plant, which had recently been sold, and re-named The Conch Farm. We built a number of boats there, including the prototype Commuter 36 MAGIC, the three 28′ Swansea Pilot Schooners GLANCE, FRANK and SYLVIA, plus numerous small dinghies and sharpies.

I was hoping that the new owners of the property would endorse my new one-design class as a promotional gambit—perhaps even to the extent of financing one or two boats. Although they seemed excited about it at first, nothing ever happened.

Plan & Construction Sections for the Conch 32.

To make the boat as light as possible, I incorporated polystyrene insulation foam in the hull and decks (Dow “blue-board”, which glues well with epoxy). The hull bottom is tortured marine plywood, arc-bottomed aft and V-bottomed forward. Beam is 8′ 6″ and displacement is 4,400 lbs, making this a trailerable boat. The NACA 0009 foil-shaped centerboard contains lead shot and polyester resin, and becomes a ballasted fin keel in the down position. The twin rudders are also foil-shaped.

The most unusual feature of new my hot-rod sailboat design was her mast. Rotating wing masts are very common in Key West, which is populated by a large number of charter catamarans (called “cattlemarans” locally). From studying and sailing on the big cats, I was intrigued by their rotating wing masts, and wondered why you never see them employed on mono-hulls… so I decided to try it myself.

Construction Details for the Conch 32 lower mast.

Part of my concept for the Conch 32 was that she be easy and inexpensive to build—no exotic hardware! The few stainless steel components required can be made by a resourceful home-builder with a mini-grinder and bench vise. Mast track, sail-slides and sail battens can be made from standard PVC plumbing pipe and aluminum flat stock. The mast step ball joint employs a standard trailer hitch (a method used by several of the big charter cats). Sheaves use standard Schaefer Delrin replacement parts available from any chandlery or catalogue.

The idea behind rotating wing masts is that the mast fairs into the sail, like a real wing, instead of the sail coming off what is frequently the wrong part of the mast. Visualize a mains’l attached to a mast track on an oval-shaped mast while beam-reaching, and you get the picture. The mast becomes a flat block, contributing nothing but turbulence to overall sail shape. With a teardrop-shaped wing mast that is free to rotate, the mast acts like the foremost bones in a bird’s wing, or the leading edge of an airplane wing. It contributes to sail shape, rather than detracting from it. Many racing multihulls employ a “mast tiller” to further control the juxtaposition of mast to sail. This device is attached to the mast base, with control lines leading to the cockpit, allowing fine-tuning of mast/wing shape.

Construction Details for the Conch 32 upper mast.

This gave me the bright idea to put the mast tiller at the head of the mast, allowing the sail to automatically orient the mast optimally to the sail. I named my invention the “L-HEAD MAST”. I was also aware of a relatively new trend in sail shape, employing full-length sail battens near or even in the head of the sail. This creates a “Bat-Wing” effect, a trend which has become even more common today, fifteen years later. Some of these new sails even look suspiciously like gaff-riggers, although they aren’t! I might mention here that bat-wing sails have been commonly used on canoes, kayaks and wind surfers for many years.

I wanted my new mast to be as simple as possible, but I had to find a way to make a structural bend near the top, to form the “L-head”… this I achieved with a stepped laminated nose stringer, and pie-shaped skin sections in way of the bend. I designed a mast core consisting of an internal plywood web frame coupled to solid stringers fore & aft. The mast can be made using nothing more exotic than a table saw. I used the web frame compartments for internal halyards, mounting sheaves in integral boxes. I eliminated the infamous “Jesus Shackle” (responsible for numerous dismasting accidents) in favor of standard SS eyebolts and a custom-made tang.

Rig details for the Conch 32.

I also designed a pivoting “bow sprit/spinnaker pole” for attaching a spinnaker tack, allowing the spinnaker to be shifted to windward on a broad reach, out from behind the mains’l.

Despite all the thought and design work I put into this project, it went over like a lead balloon! I have never sold a set of plans for the Conch 32, and one has never been built. I later designed a Conch 19 (a smaller version of the 32), and that one, also, vanished without a trace.

During this time I was avidly studying the Chinese Junk rig, which is where full-length battens for sails originated, and I began to see correlations between Junk sails, lug-rigged sails, full-length battens and multiple sheet leads. My sail plan for the Conch 32 combines various techniques from various rig types spanning centuries of time, all blended together to make something new.

In Part Two on this subject, I will address larger rotating wings employing more modern techniques and hardware, as applied to both monohulls and multihulls.

Jan 12, 2014, Saint Lucie Village

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Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Leave a comment

You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

The Illustrated Guide To Boat Hull Types (11 Examples)

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Hinged Mast Step

• Thread starter picklefreek
• Start date May 26, 2005
• Oday Owner Forums
• Ask An Oday Owner

picklefreek

Hi again all. I want to get a hinged mast step for my new 23 (pop-top, swing center board). It is just to much for Eileen to hold down while I raise the mast. I talked to Rudy and he doesn't have one. A friend of mine is a metal fabricator and is sure he can make me one, put would love to see some pictures of it. If any of you can help, that would him get under way, that would be awesome!! Thanks~ Chris ([email protected]).  

bruce cornell

mast step go to www.dwyermast.com and look at mast steps...everything needed is there.  

Pop Top or Convertible? I need some info to help you. There were 3 Oday 23 cabin roof configurations...pop-top, convertible, and fixed roof cabins. This comes from the Oday brochures.The pop-top allows the entire cabin roof to rise, and the mast is stepped on the keel. The roof has a penetration that slides up the mast. A hinged step at roof line for this mast is a specialty item that joins two mast sections. I have seen it done.The convertible top allows just the aft half of the cabin roof to raise. The fixed top is just that: fixed. Both of these have the mast stepped on the forward cabin roof (over the compression post) and use a standard two-pin tabernacle. This can be made to "hinge" either forward or aft by removing one pin or the other, the allow most of the stepping methods described in other posts.What do you have?...pop-top or convertible?  

convertible it is Keith..I have the "convertible" model. Forgive if I word this wrong, but the mast step is mounted in front of the roof as you decribed. This is just "oval" shaped and of course is just smaller then the diameter of the mast it self for the mast to sit on. It this point I have to have a person holding the bottom of the mast to ensure it goes where it should. I would like to take of that "step" and have a hinged one so I don't have to waste the use of my helper just holding the bottom. You know what I mean? If not, feel free to email me directly at "chris(nospam)@fernstravel.com" (of course removing the nospam). Thank you so much for your help!! ~Chris  

Time to Add a Hinge Chris...Ok, we've got the same boat: 1973 Convertible 23. If you want pictures to compare details, let me know.Mine is equipped with a two pin hinge assembly under the mast step you describe. You need to remove the existing oval base, clean off the sealant, and mount the hinge assembly (4 through bolts, fresh 4200) in its place, on top of the compression post through the cabin. The existing oval mast step base is remounted on top of the hinge assembly. Step the mast and put in set screws to fix the mast to the oval step base. You'll have to back off your shroud turnbuckles a bit to allow for the slight added height. Next time you remove the mast, pull the appropriate pin to hinge (I've seen past posts by owners who lower to bow; other who lower to stern). Once down, pull the second pin to remove. The top half of the hinge assembly stays with the mast. The mast is a lot of weight as it gets low, and you need to adopt a lowering method to keep it under control. There is a mast lowering scheme in the archives on this site that I use.D&R Marine lists a mast hinge on the parts sheet for the 23, but no picture. The website given by Bruce, below, has my hinge listed and shown. On Dwyermast, go to Hardware, and you'll find the DH2150 Hinge w/ 3/8" pins. That dimensionally matches the one on my boat. If you want to really get organized, add the Halyard organizer plate DH2890 under the hinge, so you are ready to mount blocks and run the halyards aft for easy sail handling. Hope this helps.  

last thought check mast angle now with old system, you may have to make a wedge to go under the new tabernacle to get the proper mast angle. would recomend putting it all together dry, raise mast and check that it is at proper angle and stays reach properly. if correct, drop the mast and add the 4200, etc.  

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• Sailboat Guide

1978 Pacific Seacraft 25

• Description

Seller's Description

Sturdy well maintained freshwater trailer sailor ready to go. Selling due to purchase of a larger boat for extended cruising. If I had the time to keep and sail both I would, but I’d rather someone else continue to enjoy and take care of her.

Background: Purchased 3 years ago (saw very little use with previous owner since 2013). Do not have a complete history, but based on conversations with PO and documentation aboard there is evidence of 3 owners including me. Have been to the Florida Keys (Marathon) twice and a trip to the Puget Sound (Olympia to Port Townsend). At cruising weight (tools, provisions, etc), boat & trailer weighs 7000lbs. Highway towing with a stock 5.7L 2011 Toyota Tundra 4x4 maintaining posted speed limits is not an issue. Heavy, but does sail well in winds above 8kts. Have been out single handing sustained mid-high 20s with gusts into 30s and felt safe. Settles in at about 10 degrees heel angle. Received second place in the 2023 Lake Pueblo Sailing Club Commodores Cup w/ PHRF rating of 312. This model is also featured in Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere by John Vigor if you’re interested in more model specific details

Overall: No soft spots. All portlights and hatches seal completely (no leaks). Some hairline gelcoat cracks typical of age but no excessive crazing. Fuel tank removed for inspection and in serviceable condition but never used. I use a small aux tank located in lazarette (estimate .15-.2 gallons per hour based on logs). Water tank removed for inspection and repair, replaced with 29 gal flexible (removable) water bladder with vented/pressurized electric faucet in galley.

Engine: Start and runs without issue. Yanmar YSB-8 with 400 hrs. Note: purchased with hour meter inop. PO replaced old engine with (290 hr freshwater engine). I have detailed hours mx logs, which is what I use to keep track of current hours.

Equipment: Updates/included items (have paperwork/receipts for all major purchases): All lines run to cockpit, including main halyard and 2 reefing lines (MastGates.com custom sail channel insert, Spinlock triple clutch, Barton single line reefing systems) Note: System is installed and functional, but some pieces of the Barton SLRS will need to be more permanently attached as I was leaving flexibility to fine tune the running rigging. Original jiffy reefing system functional as well, if you prefer reefing at the mast.

Pressurized electric galley water pump (manual pump inop) 35 lb. galvanized Delta fast-set anchor 14-35lb. Long Anchor Delta Roller (not installed) Fortress Fx-11 Anchor - 7lb 25 ft chain, 125ft rode Origo 4300E Alcohol-Electric 2 burner stove (1 electric burner inop, both alcohol burners work) 2023 Oil change oil strainer cleaning new impeller 2023 primary & secondary fuel filter change (new spares) 2023 Mast plate with boom vang & SLR connections 2023 Alternator & belt ( used spares) 2023 Rudder gudgeon hardware removed and rebedded 2022 AC to DC 12V 15A LifePO4 Plug-in Battery Charger Smart Charger and Maintainer 2022 GIANDEL Power Inverter 1500W Pure Sine Wave DC 12V to AC 110V 120V with Dual AC Outlets & LED Display Remote Controller 2.4A USB Port 2022 SOK 12V100Ah LiFePO4 Battery w/ Bluetooth & Built-in heater 2022 Renogy Rover Li 40 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller w/ Bluetooth 2022 350 watts solar (2x Renogy Flexible Solar Panels 175 Watt 12 Volt) 2022 4 to 1 Vang 2022 Main sail cover 2022 Precision Sails, Mariner Package 400 Series Advanced Dacron 6oz: Mainsail with 4 partial battens, 2 reefs, sail numbers 2022 Precision Sails Mariner Package, 400 Series Advanced Dacron 6oz: 125% Genoa w/ draft stripes, UV protector, furling reefing marker, foam luff inserts Note: Original mainsail, hank on jib, and 135 genoa available 2022 Harken Mark IV Ocean Furler 2022 Pettit Hydrocoat Ablative Antifouling Paint 2022 Air Head Composting Toilet w/ full-sized seat (original marine head avail) 2022 Oil impeller change 2022 Freshwater and saltwater anodes 2022 24MS-VL ValuCraft/Duralst Marine Starting Battery 2022 Rule LoPro 900GPH Automatic Bilge Pump 2022 TillerClutchX manual tiller quicklock system 2022 Raymarine Ev-100 Tiller Evolution Autopilot 2021 Raymarine i70s Instrument Display with Wind and Depth Transducer 2021 Barton Lazy Jacks

Also includes partially rebuilt Yanmar YSB-8 engine (unknown hrs) and too many parts/spares to list.

Tandem-axle EZ Loader Trailer: Title in hand, registered in CO. 3 inch x 30 ft launch strap (10k lbs working/30k break) 2024 Keel guides with carpet bunks installed 2024 Full hub service (replaced inner & outer bearings, races, etc.) greased using red n tacky 2023 New highway rated tires (including 2 full sized spares) 2022 Electric brake install with new hubs/bearings

Link to pictures and extra parts available upon request.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

From BlueWaterBoats.org :

The first of the boats to carry the legendary Pacific Seacraft name, the 25 was penned by Henry Mohrschladt and built from humble beginnings in his garage in 1976. This tiny double-ender was fashioned after the workboats of the 19th century which were able to carry heavy loads, sail quickly and safely in a broad range of weather. By modern standards the little 25-footer is considered quite slow, but to make up for this she is immensely strong and seaworthy, low maintenance, and perfectly capable of being trailered to a cruising ground of your choice.

It’s been said the Pacific Seacraft 25 looks much like a blend between fishing vessel and a ship’s lifeboat encapsulating a traditional old world feel. Beneath the waterline is a full keel with a forefoot cutaway which blesses her with fine tracking abilities combined with a hefty rudder hung from the double-ender’s stern post. The bottom of the keel has a long enough straight section to allow her to sit upright without nosing forwards should she be tied up while the tide is out.

The boats were available in cutter and sloop rig. The cutter rigged boats had a small bowsprit of less than two feet in length, the slot between the headsail and the stay sail which anchors at the stem head is quite small.

Under sail the helm is light and tracking is excellent. Light air performance is abysmal, more canvas area is desperately needed, but in winds above 8 knots she can move surprisingly well with hull speed attained in 12-14 knots of breeze. She’s initially tender before stiffening at about 10 degrees of heel with the first reef typically thrown in above 16 knots. In rough conditions she is known to heave-to particularly well with a reefed staysail and triple reefed main.

The first hull was built by Pacific Seacraft’s two founders Mike Howarth and Henry Mohrschladt in Henry’s garage in Orange County, California. The boat was promptly taken to a local boat show where it sold immediately and created a good deal of interest. Production eventually moved from the garage to the company’s first official premises in Santa Ana on South Susan Street when the residential neighbours didn’t take kindly to the smell and sounds of fiberglass boatbuilding.

Early Pacific Seacraft 25s were sloop rigged without bowsprits and their associated cutter rig. Many options were on offer and you’ll find numerous variations on the market today. Options included various hull colors, teak sea-hoods for the hatches, teak decks, cockpit grates, and cutter rigs in the later models. There was even an option for a private forward cabin separated with a full bulkhead and a finely crafted door. Apparently four boats were built with swing keels and additionally a few boats were owner-finished.

Production continued through until 1981 with the last recorded boat being hull number #257 for a total production count of 157. The Pacific Seacraft 25 was eventually phased out when the company introduced Bruce Bingham’s Flicka 20 to its lineup of yachts. The new 20 footer’s standing headroom and clever use of space in her open cabin interior proved to be important factors. The molds for the Pacific Seacraft 25 were eventually shipped to Japan, but their ultimate fate remains unknown.

Construction

The hulls were built of hand-laid fiberglass with lengthwise mock-planking molded in, while the deck and cabin were of fiberglass cored in balsa to keep the weight down. The cabin trunk design is quite boxy and despite its apparent height the internal headroom only manages five feet two inches.

There is a small gunwale that’s two inches at the bow which reduces to nothing at the cockpit, topped with a wide caprail of teak. The sidedecks are comfortably wide that gets wider further forward of the boat.

The cockpit has a good size and shape for a seagoing boat possessing a secure feel. It has comfortably rounded corners for lounging, a roomy stern lazarette, and a spacious port-side locker. The cockpit has two drains on the forward edge which are adequate, though for serious offshore work 4 drains would be better.

Below the cockpit floor is a large hatch that can be unsealed and detached by undoing 25 screws. It’s a large area to keep well sealed and watertight but it does allow for unprecedented access to the engine and stuffing box. The standard engine is a single cylinder 8-horsepower Yanmar diesel which fits snugly under the cockpit. Access to the engine from behind the companionway steps is minimal – enough for a peek, but that is all.

A deep and narrow fuel tank is located in bilge just forward of the engine area – it’s a great spot for space efficiency and for keeping a low center of gravity. Unfortunately, as with early Pacific Seacraft practice, they were made of aluminum, and being located in the bilge, despite having runners under it, the tank would typically develop saltwater corrosion and leaks six to eight years into its life. The job of replacing these tanks has become infamous in the industry.

The mast is stepped onto a tabernacle that allows it to be dropped or raised easily, this area is supported by a wooden compression post that transfers the load of the rig onto the keel.

Interior Layout

Belowdecks is accommodations for up to five, it’s unlikely you’ll go cruising with more than two people on a boat this size, but the extra berths may be handy for short coastal trips. The forepeak has a small double berth that’s sized better for children, also in the forepeak is a head and hanging locker opposite each other on either side of the hull. A curtain separates this area from the saloon.

The galley is generously sized and well laid out with fresh and seawater hand pumps, a sink, and originally sold with a pressure kerosene or alcohol two burner stove. Opposite is a dinette and settees that face forward and aft that can seat up to three. The dinette can be lowered to make room for a double berth and further aft is a seagoing quarter-berth.

Six bronze opening portlights and an overhead hatch allows for plenty of light and ventilation to enter the cabin. The joinerwork is superb and up to the standard set by Pacific Seacraft on all of their vessels.

Links, References and Further Reading

» Pacific Seacraft owner review by Ron Chappel, Good Old Boat Magazine, March/April 2004 » Twenty Small Sailboats to Take you Anywhere by John Vigor, p105 » Pacific Seacraft 25 Owners Forum , messages, information and photos.

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