. You will develop a sense of what to hoist when by trying different sail combos on the same course and conditions...a mile between buoys with a beam wind is a good start.
Ketches are great but they require a bit more thinking to get the most of them. Your is pretty heavy and probably a challenge in light air, but in heavy air you will see that the can reduce sail and "keep on keeping on" in fine fashion while sloops are reefing down or heading for the moorings.
Good luck. I'm sure we'd love some "action" photos. . Can't sleep? Read for fast relief. Can't read? Avoid , because it's just personal reviews of sea books.
04-02-2012, 18:24
Boat: Sabre 402
made it advantageous to have a mizzen because it added sail area without affecting the rating. Downwind, the mizzen and mizzen staysail (some even have a mizzen spinnaker) can add speed, but upwind, many owners don't even bother to hoist their mizzens. As you have found, it can upset the balance of the and keep you from heading off. Operating in the backwind of the , it usualy has to be trimmed so flat to keep it from luffing that it doesn't help push the boat forward much, but creates dragfrom luffing, no matter how tight you strap it. We sailed an H-28 ketch for about ten years, cruising and . It even had a "mule" sail that was rigged between the top of the mizzen and the top of the main. Didn't set that very often! At , though, having the mizzen point us definitely into the wind kept yawing to a minimum and made sleeping much more comfortable.
04-02-2012, 18:49
Boat: 50-ft steel Ketch
04-02-2012, 20:42
Boat: Custom 41' Steel Pilothouse Cutter
. Can't sleep? Read for fast relief. Can't read? Avoid , because it's just personal reviews of sea books.
04-02-2012, 21:04
Boat: Koch Muiden, 37 foot ketch
and love our mizzen. Practical, aesthetic and aerodynamic.
We also experience some (heading up, coupled with ten degrees or more of helm) and balance this by easing the mizzen, and the main, but in many cases, we sail with headsail and mizzen. No main. That way the mizzen is more effective, acts as a steadying sail and we can balance the boat with or unfurling the headsail. We can raise and lower the mizzen safely from the (as we can also control the headsail) allowing us sufficient sail in rolly conditions of sea and swell.
To set the main, as with reefing, we need a crew on the top at the base of the main and this is a very unstable position. However on good days - all sail is up and she reaches and runs on the quarter like a dream. Our fastest sail ever however was in the D'Entreacasteau channel (Tasmania) in 25 knots of wind with half a headsail and full mizzen - doing 8.5 knots!
The mizzen is also a place for our wind , second aerial, radome, TV , aft and boarding and BBQ floodlight, and soon a pair of large ships hooters under the mizzen bracket.
on the mizzen? Seems like they would get a **LOT** of from the main??
09-02-2012, 14:02
with the first suitable window. That should give us some practical experience. However, it may be a few months before we get the weather. Will keep reading about sailing in the mean time! Cheers.
11-02-2012, 06:36
Boat: Sabre 402
up as far as the Faroes. The book starts without him knowing how to sail.
20-08-2013, 10:39
Boat: Whitby 42 Ketch
???
20-08-2013, 11:34
Boat: Pearson, 424, 42', Sarah
??? " I have a on my 424 Ketch and have made two crossings of the Atlantic primarily steered by the .
I encountered two significant, but manageable issues with this configuration. . Remove the vane. Tack the boat onto the new course and trim the sails. Re-install the vane. Disengage the autopilot and re-engage the Monitor. This is a cumbersome procedure, but a minor inconvenience on an off-shore where tacks are not the norm. from the boat effectively. This happened to me one night after we tacked with the mizzen furled. In the dark I just forgot about the furled mizzen, and the Monitor kept letting the boat go off-course. I engaged the autopilot and started investigating the problem and eventually noticed the mizzen boom to windward of the Monitor. I tacked the furled mizzen over the Monitor vane using the topping . When I re-engaged the Monitor all was back to normal. So there can be issues with a windvane and a ketch rig, but for most off-shore sailing they are not major issues. When sailing in shore or when having to tack often I either furl the mizzen or steer by autopilot.
John
20-08-2013, 11:49
Boat: Catalina 42
12-02-2015, 10:41
Boat: 1973 Allied Princess 36' Ketch
23-02-2015, 10:31
Boat: Skookum Pilothouse Ketch 34'
is . So that is what I tried. I chose to douse the jib almost as soon as I deployed it. Just overwhelmed. So much going on.
Still with just the main and mizzen, the boat was balanced and easy sailing. I tacked a couple times, playing with the , staying on a close reach. The conversation went a little like this...What happens when I do this? I'm. What happens when I do that? I'm, OOH NO! Ok, that's better, OH NO, again.
About an hour later, I was suddenly unable to tack. It would cross to irons and then untack. I tried a couple times and then decided if was enough. I am pretty sure it was the mizzen trim. I will try again Thursday.
Can any of you describe sail trim for a ketch and how to use the mizzen to my advantage? I still need to use the tiller to tack, yes? Where is my mizzen trim on a close reach when I begin my tack? In tight, or spilling air?
Come on you Old Salts! Bring it!
Bobby S/V Wandering Star Tacoma, WA
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Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear
A Sunny Look at Ketches
My affinity for cruising ketches like the Allied Seawind II we feature this month runs contrary to the view of their many detractors. Their criticism goes something like this: Ketches were popular in early days of cruising when undersized winches and friction-bound hardware conspired to make handling large sails a chore. With efficient winches and modern hardware, split rigs are obsolete on boats under 50 feet, they say.
Having wrestled down the main on more than a few 40-footers with state of-the-art everything, I don’t buy this argument, but Ill let it stand. Nor will I quibble over complaints about a ketchs handicap to windward-which in my view is overstated, at least with regards to the better designs.
You can poke around the cruising blogosphere and find plenty of resident ketch-haters, and indeed, some of the complaints have merit; the added weight and expense of the ketchs extra rigging are irrefutable knocks. But having lived aboard and sailed a much-beloved, 32-foot William Atkin ketch for 10 years, Im not interested in joining the chorus. Ill instead celebrate the rigs attractions, especially to the short-handed cruiser.
Smaller sails are easier to handle. In squally weather, start with a reef tucked in the main, then just furl the mizzen or jib as needed without leaving the cockpit, upsetting helm, or wrestling more reefs into the main.
Ride the invisible rail. The fore-and-aft distribution of sails simplifies the task of achieving a rock-steady helm.
Impress your sloop-sailing friends with fancy ketch tricks. Sail backward through the mooring field (spin circles if you have a sharpie), nose casually up to anchor, hove-to with jig and jigger.
Barrel westward on a reach. Turbo-charge off-wind sailing by setting a mizzen staysail.
Dont fear a dismasting. Having two independently stayed masts increases your odds of having at least one spar to use for jury rigging. (This advantage does not apply to ketches with triatic stays like the lovely Sea Witch.)
Sail in good company. Some famous ketches to consider: Steinlager 2 (1990 Whitbread winner), Suhaili (Robin Knox Johnstons Golden Globe race winner), Joshua (Bernard Moitessiers beloved, steel globe-trotter), Wanderer IV (Eric and Susan Hiscocks storied last boat), Colin Archers heroic little rescue boats . . . the list goes on.
Draw longing sighs from those ashore. There is something about having a main and mizzen working together that kindles romantic visions of South Sea islands.
Another nice thing about ketches is that many have reached an age when they are true bargains. Here are a few familiar ketches worth considering:
L. Francis Herreshoffs classic H-28, Gary Hoyts unstayed Freedom 40, Charlie Morgans Bahama-mama Out Island 41, Ted Brewers Whitby 42 (aka Brewer 12.8), the Cheoy Lee Offshore 41, any of William Gardens iconic ketches, the Swedish-built Hallberg-Rassy 42, Atkins Ingrid 38 (and her related offspring), John Hannas iconic Tahiti ketch, Holman & Pyes Bowman 57, and two S&S designs, the Swan 57 and Tartan TOCK.
Im sure PS readers have many other boats to add to the list as evidence that reports on the death of the cruising ketch have been greatly exaggerated.
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Sailboat Guide
Pearson 365 Ketch
Pearson 365 Ketch is a 36 ′ 5 ″ / 11.1 m monohull sailboat designed by William Shaw and built by Pearson Yachts between 1976 and 1982.
Rig and Sails
Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
Sail Area / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
D : Displacement in pounds.
Ballast / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
Displacement / Length Ratio
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
LWL: Waterline length in feet
Comfort Ratio
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
LOA: Length overall in feet
Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
Capsize Screening Formula
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
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Home » Strong wind downwind with unstayed Masts, Cat Ketches and Cat Yawls, more safety and efficiency
Strong wind downwind with unstayed Masts, Cat Ketches and Cat Yawls, more safety and efficiency
In general our thinking about angle of heel downwind is passive – however we can take active control – also a neat trick for more power from cat ketches and yawls with or without unstayed masts and for all boats with unstayed masts.
More info about the Goat Island Skiff Plans
I was only able to make the trip because of Chuck and Sandra from Duckworks putting me up and John Goodman, the owner/builder of the Green Goat Island Skiff “GIR”. It was a particular pleasure to sail with John (left in pic below). He because he is a very good sailor and was interested to make as much from the learning curve the conditions provided as I was.
Though one of the smaller boats in the fleet it was able to perform equal or faster than larger boats. Part of it is the boat is lighter and simpler than most of the other boats. And it has gained a reputation for high average speed. The other thing was we were doing something in a very different way to all the other boats.
Strong Winds – Mostly Downwind. … A good chance to experiment
The winds were strong (25mph – 20knots plus) and from the stern. It meant lots of high speed running and broad reaching. Points of sail where control can be difficult as the boats roll around badly as they encounter large waves.
Why sailing by the lee is NOT a no go zone or something to avoid
Sailing by the lee is traditionally something we are all warned about. But getting used to it has really significant handling and safety benefits for boats with unstayed masts.
The more you use it the more understandable and predictable the boat behaviour becomes.
Raceboats with unstayed masts have been using these techniques for years and switch between regular sailing to by the lee sailing continuously on the downwind legs to add speed and control.
Building up experience by sailing by the lee in moderate conditions allows us to really see the different stages and hints that the sail will give you before it does anything silly. And if you do gybe accidentally, the sail is completely depowered on the other side.
This attitude to by the lee sailing makes gybing safer – Read More!
Goosewinging correctly – sailing fast by the lee in unstayed sailboats
Most sailors have some idea of goosewinging. Particularly as many boats move to much cheaper and easier to handle unstayed rigs. Many will goosewing when the wind is from behind. Most do it the wrong way.
Normally the crew will flip the mizzen over to the opposite side. This is the wrong thing to do for best performance and in many conditions for safety.
A better choice is to allow the mizzen to flip over to the side it wants and forcefully gybe the mainsail to the other side.
The following diagram explains why in most conditions it is better to gybe over the mainsail.
In the left image the mizzen is partially blocking the wind from the mainsail.
In the right the mainsail is completely exposed to fast moving fresh air. Or, even better, it can be in the stream of accelerated air that passes either side of the blockage caused by the mizzen. Racing sailors will know a similar effect when you go either side of an island. Or, when there is a big bunch of boats just to one side of direct upwind behind you.
So that is for speed. But the important thing I want to show is also how it is good for SECURITY and makes sailing faster.
RELATED LINK – All our Lug Rig Articles – over 20 directly useful articles on setting up and thinking about lug rigs.
Control of heel and powering up through sailing by the lee
Because almost all the sailing in the Texas 200 is with strong winds from behind we had hours each day to play with different settings. For years I have used Sailing By The Lee to maximise speed. But I had heard A second advantage of sailing by the lee has two stages of explanation. This part also applies to cat rigs that are unstayed.
The diagram above shows what happens to the heel vector as the mainsail is trimmed in and out. The boat will heel one way when you pull the mainsheet in and the other when you ease it out.
We used this actively when sailing the Goat to give the boat the angle we wanted. If the boat starts heeling in the wrong way or becomes unstable this method gives you a powerful method to bring the boat upright.
Video showing Active heel Control from a “By the Lee” angle.
We didn’t have to worry about the boat rolling or heeling uncontrollably in the fast running and broad reaching conditions. In the video I get the windward and leeward side mixed up – very easy to do when sailing by the lee. But it still shows how new to using the method we were.
The reason this is such a powerful method is that at all times the mainsail has full power. The following diagram shows why.
In the left diagram with the mainsail on the conventional side you can also control the heel by sheeting the mainsail in and out. However there is a limit because the sail loses its power as it is eased – it starts to luff. Just when you need the power to pull the boat upright you lose the power to do so.
When by the lee the (boat on the right) power increases dramatically as you trim in the mainsail. The the sail moves from stalled to having smooth flow from leech to luff reversing the normal flow direction.
From a speed perspective it gives control to avoid a nasty roll in the wrong direction. Simply by pulling in or easing the sheet suddenly a few feet. But whichever way you are forcing the boat to heel the mainsail is developing full power the whole time.
This understanding feeds into methods of the “Safe Gybe” – Click this link.
Limitations of sailing by the lee
During the Texas 200 we started off with a fairly gung ho attitude. “full mainsail or one reef” and then towards the end we were usually deciding between second and third reef. There was so much power available using this method our normal sailing speed above 8 mph at any time. Most of the time around 10 mph (just under 9 knots) with extended sprints up to 12 or 14 mph.
Here we would ease the mainsail to push the boat upright.
Very good speed for a little boat – and it was consistent speed – not momentary. The only boats the little Goat Island Skiff was unable to overhaul were the catamarans in the event.
The downside of the by the lee method is as the wind increases there comes a point where the boat is going so fast in the waves that it overtakes a wave at such speed that it digs its nose into the wave in front deeply. Happily with the balanced volumes of the Goat hull this does not produce any veering or helm loads. Quite unlike 1980s style planing boats that have wide transoms.
If this happened consistently we simply stopped, sheeted in the mizzen to hold the boat on a close hauled course. Then put another reef in the mainsail.
If we were not sure that another reef was the best choice we would gybe the mainsail. Putting the main on the leeward side and accept that the sail would lose power when eased – something we counted on.
Related Article The Safe Gybe and the Fast Gybe
2 thoughts on “Strong wind downwind with unstayed Masts, Cat Ketches and Cat Yawls, more safety and efficiency”
Hey MIK, good to see you survived our lovely heat.
I am really curious how your opinion has changed or remained the same regarding the yawl rig (or the cat ketch by extension) in comparison to a single sail.
I do know that on the old sharpies, they would let the sail fly forward of them mast when running just to stabilize. Did you try that?
In a more specific vein, now that you have spent some serious time in the sailing conditions we have down here, what do you think would be a good choice for a generally comfortable sailing boat for single handing these conditions? Keep in mind that the wind you experienced was not exceptional in this area. You should see it when it really gets blowing.
Hi David, The single sail is by far the best solution for off the beach sailing – you can rig in minutes and get going. The boat is less cluttered, significantly cheaper and less labour.
However for a distance event or cruising having the ability to hold the nose to wind or the boat abeam of the wind does allow reefing much more easily. In the Texas 200 it would be mostly possible to pull ashore to reef if the wind had come up – but this would require a degree of thought and calculation and probably conservatism before crossing some of the larger bodies of water – like Matogorda Bay etc.
All in all I was very happy to be sailing the yawl version for this event.
Best wishes Michael
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How to Heave To On A Sailboat
If you’re wondering how to heave to on your sailboat, and why you might want to, then you’re reading the right article!
Heaving to is an important safety technique that every sailor should know, and practice regularly. But do you know how to heave to, and under what conditions might need to use this manoeuvre?
In this article we take a deep dive into the practice of heaving to – exploring how to enter a hove-to state on different kinds of sailing vessels, when and why to use this technique, and taking a look at some historical examples of instances where heaving to has saved lives.
You can trust us to tell you everything you need to know about the heave-to manoeuvre, because we are seasoned sailors with RYA-accredited qualifications and thousands and thousands of miles under the keel, hard-won in every sea state imaginable. We have also heaved to quite a few times ourselves!
Before we get into the mechanics of how to heave to, let’s take a quick look at what this technique is and aims to achieve.
Table of Contents
What is heaving to, why heave to in sailing, how does heaving to work, how to heave to in a sailboat, how to heave to in a sloop.
How to heave to in a cutter
How to heave to in a ketch
How to heave to on a catamaran
Heaving to as a storm tactic.
Heaving to is a manoeuvre that sailors can use to slow their vessel down to a near-crawl, while fixing the helm and sail positions so that the crew no longer need to actively steer the boat or manage the sails.
When performed correctly it will also place the bow of the boat at angle up into the waves, allowing her to ride them smoothly and producing maximum comfort for all aboard. It should also minimise leeway.
As we’ll see in a moment, the exact technique to achieve these outcomes varies by the kind of sailing boat you have – principally, by her sail plan.
You may occasionally hear power-boaters use the term “heave to” to simply mean throttle back and come to rest. In this article, we’ll mostly be talking about the technique of heaving to under sail instead.
Heaving to is an important safety manoeuvre commonly used to sit out heavy weather, allowing the crew to go below, take a rest and get warm and dry. A correctly hove-to boat can sit out most kinds of weather, just bobbing along on the top of it.
Heaving to can also be used as a low-effort way to simply wait in position for a time, such as when waiting for tides to turn, a squall to blow past ahead, or for a bridge to open.
Some sailors have been known to heave to just to have a cup of tea and a biscuit!
Another application is stopping the boat in a hurry while under sail. For this reason, it’s used in some man-overboard recovery techniques. Naturally, you can dump the sheets to achieve a similar outcome, but that doesn’t apply reverse thrust in the way that backing a sail does.
When it comes to MOB scenarios you could heave to in order to stop the boat rapidly, then engage the engine, throw the sails down and proceed to recover the MOB under power.
Or, if you intend to recover the MOB under sail, you can approach them while hove-to in order to drift up to them slowly.
Not everyone agrees that heaving to is the correct way to initiate an MOB; a lot of sailors advocate for letting the sheets fly instead, forgetting about the flapping canvas and getting the motor on as soon as possible.
You’ll see a lot of complicated explanations online for how heaving to actually works. We think most of them overcomplicate things, and generally prefer to explain it like this:
Heaving to works by backing the headsail so that it fights the mainsail. If you get it right the two sails cancel each other out and the boat stays more or less static, despite being powered up.
That’s not quite the whole story, but it’s by far the easiest way to visualise what’s happening on a hove-to boat.
To initiate a heave-to, you proceed as though you are going to tack the boat, but do not tack the headsail sheets or adjust the headsail in any way. The main, of course, will self-tack, but the headsail (or storm sail ) needs to be blown backwards through the triangle formed by the mast and the forestay, and end up backed – with the belly facing inboard – rather than outboard as it usually would.
Still with us? If you’re lost, think about it like this: you are literally just performing a normal tack without tacking the headsail sheets. At the end of the manoeuvre, you will have a normal, correctly tacked main, but a headsail that is backed and still sheeted as though you were still on the opposite tack.
The result of this is that the mainsail powers the boat forwards normally, but the headsail is backed and resisting it, pushing it backwards; so the boat achieves a state of near-equilibrium and simply drifts.
You should only be travelling at around a knot, but the boat is still powered-up and stiff rather than at the mercy of the waves, and therefore orders of magnitude more comfortable than if you had put the sails away.
That’s the flavour of it: now let’s look at exactly how to heave to on a sailboat, step-by-step.
When heaving to, we’re always trying to achieve the same thing: to get the headsail and the mainsail balancing each other out, so that the boat is still powered-up and comfortable, but no longer making any headway.
Generally speaking, we achieve that either by tacking a sail, but not the boat; or the other way around – by tacking the boat, but not one of the sails. Either way, we end up with one sail fighting the other, and the boat comes to a stop.
The exact procedure to enter a hove-to state is different for different kinds of sailing vessel and rig, so let’s start with the simplest scenario: you are a sloop, with one mast, a mainsail and a jib.
There are two ways for a single-masted sailing vessel such as a sloop to begin a heave to. For both of them, you want to be travelling upwind.
The first way is to literally heave the jib over to the “wrong” side of the boat, i.e. the windward side. This means releasing the leeward sheet and manually hauling the sail through the gap between the forestay and mast using the windward sheet.
It sounds complicated when you spell it out like that, but it’s literally the same set of steps you would follow to tack the headsail, just like normal- except you don’t tack the boat.
The jib moves, the wind doesn’t, so the jib ends the manoeuvre backed and pushing backward against the main; which is still on the correct tack, powered up and propelling the boat forwards.
The alternative is to tack the boat but not the jib.
In other words, the helmsman swings the wheel to wind; the bow of the boat tacks as you would expect, but at the point the crew would normally scramble to release one jib sheet and tension the other to tack the headsail (the moment your helmsman booms “lee ho!” , if you’re that sort of boat) – you instead do nothing.
The jib ends up backed again, because nobody tacked it. The main self-tacks and re-powers on the new tack, and the two still end up counteracting each other. Personally, we feel this is much easier, as you don’t have to manually heave the jib back through the gap between the forestay and mast – you just turn the helm.
Tacking the boat also slows you down a lot right away, which is one of the goals of heaving to in the first place.
Whichever of these two methods you use, the next step is to turn the wheel to windward – as though you are trying to tack back again. Of course, you will not have the speed or drive to do this with a backed headsail.
The purpose of turning the helm to wind like this is threefold:
One, we need to stay head-to-wind to keep the headsail backed. If we bear away, the headsail will fill and we will exit our heave-to.
Two, heaving to doesn’t truly stop the boat. You will still be making a knot or two through the water. This is actually desirable, because you will also be making leeway. By pointing upwind, we aim to use that knot of speed to counteract the leeway and remain more or less stationary over ground.
Thirdly, we want the bow of the boat to be facing up into the waves, at an angle, because that’s a lot more comfortable for the crew than taking them on the beam.
Start by turning the wheel to wind by hand and finding the point at which the boat settles down and maintains a steady course to wind and wave. You can lash the wheel there if you desire, and then you’re free to go below.
If she doesn’t want to settle down, or you’re making too much headway over ground, you may need to ease the sheets or even take a reef in the main.
It’s important to try heaving to in different conditions so that you know how your particular vessel performs, before you need to perform the manoeuvre in anger. Old, heavy-displacement, full-keel boats are often much easier to heave to than modern fin-keelers.
How to heave to on a cutter or Solent rig
Cutters and Solent-rigged sailboats have a single mast, like a sloop, but they have two headsails. The addition of an extra headsail makes heaving to a little more difficult.
The primary headsail on a cutter is usually a large genoa that attaches at the masthead and runs to the bow, or often to a bowsprit enabling a larger sail. This is usually the sail we will be backing in order to heave to.
The second headsail on a cutter is usually called a staysail, and attaches about a quarter of the way down from the masthead. This second, smaller headsail is often set up to be self-tacking.
When you want to tack a sloop, you only need to pull the headsail through the very large gap between the forestay and mast. When you want to tack the genoa on a cutter, you have to fit that extremely large sail through the much smaller gap between the outer and inner stays.
The upshot of all this is that it’s harder to back the sail on a cutter. You can either drag it laboriously through the gap using the winch, or someone can go forward and manhandle it along – but that’s not always the safest in heavy weather.
When it comes to a Solent rig, it’s usually much easier. A Solent does have two headsails, but the outer one is usually a cruising chute and the inner one is the jib. As such, to heave to on a Solent-rigged boat, you perform the exact same steps as on a sloop.
How to heave to on a ketch or a yawl
Twin-masted sailboats, such as ketches, can also heave to.
These vessels have a main mast and a second, smaller mast called a mizzen, and can fly sails from both masts. The difference between a ketch and a yawl is the size and position of this aft mast.
Most ketches and yawls fly a headsail, a mainsail, and then a smaller mainsail from the mizzenmast called a mizzen sail. In other words, only the main mast has a headsail.
You do get mizzen staysails that sit between the main and mizzen masts but they’re rare. To all intents and purposes, we’re dealing with three sails here, and two of them – the main and mizzen – are self-tacking.
The principle to heave to on a ketch or yawl is similar to a sloop: we’re still looking to balance the sails, by backing the headsail and leading the main powered up.
Because the mizzen behaves like a small main, we treat it like one and let it self-tack along with the main. As a result, in our hove-to position, we have a backed jib, and a main and mizzen flying regularly.
We now turn the wheel to windward and use the tension on the mizzen sheet to adjust how high or low we point into the wind and waves. We can also use the tension on the main sheet to influence how much headway we make.
Most catamarans actually can’t heave to. When a monohull heaves to, part of what makes it work is the action of the sails pivoting around the keel – and the keel provides drag and dimension stability that reduce leeway.
Catamarans don’t have keels. At least, not deep keels with heavy ballast bulbs. They can have fixed, stubby little mini-keels, or long retractable daggerboards – but either way, their keels act like the fins on a surfboard rather than ballast. They also have two of them – they just don’t behave in the same way as monohulls.
Cats do have a few heave-to-adjacent manoeuvres that they can turn to in a storm, though. The first is to deeply reef the main, drop the traveller all the way to leeward, and then pull the mainsheet in hard. Lash the helm so that the cat is on a safe, close-hauled course. If you get it right, you should be drifting sideways calmly at about half a knot, with your bows into the waves at an angle.
This is sometimes called “parking” a cat. Performance cats with daggerboards, when performing this manoeuvre, should leave both boards about halfway down.
Performance cats also have the option to pull the boards right up and skate freely over the surface of the waves; either with or without sail power.
Performance cats are fast, so as long as there’s enough room to run, they also have the option to turn down wind and match the cadence of the wave train – creating a smooth ride with minimal wave impacts. They also ride higher on the waves as they accelerate, effectively creating more reserve buoyancy.
When sailing in heavy weather in a catamaran, however, it’s important to remember that cats don’t heel and it can be harder to tell when one is overpowered. They also don’t spill wind and self-compensate in the way that a heeling monohull does, so it’s wise to reef early and often.
Heaving to as a storm tactic exploded in popularity, particularly in the RYA syllabus, after the 1979 Fastnet disaster.
The 605-mile race is held once every two years off the coast of the UK. In 1979, it was struck by a terrible storm; more than a hundred boats capsized and 19 people died.
Hundreds more would certainly have been lost if not for the brave actions of an unbelievable, impromptu volunteer search and rescue operation – the largest ever in peacetime – consisting of more than 4,000 members of the public and pleasure boat owners.
It was later discovered that every single boat that had heaved to had emerged from the storm completely unscathed. Every boat that capsized or been knocked down had either attempted to carry on sailing, or had used a different technique called “laying ahull”.
In the aftermath of these events, the RYA took it upon itself to disseminate the information that heaving to saves lives, and they continue to recommend it as a storm tactic today.
As noted earlier in the article, not all boats actually can heave to, but if your boat is capable, it’s certainly a valuable trick to keep up your sleeve. It’s a good idea to read up on how sailing your sailboat in a storm just in case you need to employ other tactics.
In conclusion, heaving to is an important safety technique that every monohull sailor should be aware of. At a basic level, it provides you with a window of calm and safety to gather your thoughts and take some refreshments. At the extreme end of the scale, it could save your life in a storm one day.
It’s important to practise heaving to before you need to use the technique for real, because every boat performs a little differently. This goes double if you intend to incorporate heaving to into your man overboard protocol.
Heaving to isn’t a particularly difficult technique, but you do need to try it out a couple of times in order to get comfortable with the sail and trim your particular vessel requires to settle down into a nicely hove-to state.
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COMMENTS
What's in a Rig? The Ketch
The Ketch. What's in a Rig Series #4. Ketch rigs hold a special place in many a cruising sailor's heart. There's something dignified and majestic about them. They are two masted rigs with a main mast and a (smaller) mizzenmast - they carry a jib just like a sloop. Generally, ketches will be in the 40-plus foot range.
What Is a Ketch Sailboat?
A ketch is a two-masted sailboat with a tall mizzenmast mast aft of the mainmast. A key characteristic of Ketch sailboats is that their mizzenmast is shorter than the mainmast. The mainmast itself is typical and resembles a sloop mast. A ketch has a mainsail and one or more headsails on the mainmast, along with a single mizzen on the mizzenmast ...
Ketch
The name ketch is derived from catch. [2] The ketch's main mast is usually stepped further forward than the position found on a sloop. [3]The sail plan of a ketch is similar to that of a yawl, on which the mizzen mast is smaller and set further back.There are versions of the ketch rig that only have a mainsail and a mizzen, in which case they are referred to as cat ketch.
15 Surprising Benefits of a Ketch Rig (and 7 Cons)
The ketch rig is an especially effective rig for larger boats (40ft and up). Just a quick recap: the ketch is a two-masted sailboat that has a mainmast (front) and shorter mizzenmast (aft or back). Both masts carry a mainsail. The sail on the mizzenmast is also called the jigger. Your mizzensail provides all kinds of benefits.
Ketch Sailboats: The Ultimate Guide
This design allows for a versatile sail plan, with various combinations of sails that provide excellent balance and handling. The purpose of ketch sailboats is to offer enhanced control, stability, and ease of handling, making them suitable for both coastal cruising and long-distance passages. Courtesy of Yacht World.
Ketch Sailing Techniques: Mastering the Art of Sailing a Ketch Yacht
A ketch is a type of sailboat that has two masts, with a smaller mast located at the stern. The smaller mast is known as the mizzenmast, and it is usually smaller than the main mast. Ketch sailing is a popular activity among avid sailors, as it offers a range of benefits, including improved stability, increased speed, and excellent maneuverability.
A One-sided Defense of the Cruising Ketch
Impress your sloop-sailing friends with fancy ketch tricks. Sail backward through the mooring field (spin circles if you have a sharpie), nose casually up to anchor, hove-to with jig and jigger. Barrel westward on a reach. Turbo-charge off-wind sailing by setting a mizzen staysail. Don't fear a dismasting.
What is a Ketch Sailboat?
A ketch is a sailboat with two masts. The mainmast is shorter than the mast on a sloop, and the mizzenmast aft is shorter than the mainmast. Ketches are a type of sailing vessel that have been around for centuries. They are known for their unique design, which features two masts - the main mast located towards the front of the vessel and a ...
Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)
The two-masted rigs are: Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (a cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts. Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast is much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without a mainsail. Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts.
Ketch sailboats
The ketch is a traditional sailing vessel that has its origins in Holland. It was originally used as a fishing boat, but was later adapted for use as a pleasure craft. The ketch is characterized by its two masts, with the main mast being taller than the aft mast. The sails are also asymmetrical, with the mainsail being larger than the headsail.
PEARSON 424 KETCH
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5
Ketch sailing: Jib and jigger
Carol and I are both admirers of the ketch rig. Some Yachting Monthly readers may have seen my article on the rig (Six reasons to sail a ketch, May 2014) so I won't repeat all I wrote then apart from briefly mentioning some of the basic advantages of ketches - their sail plan options, heavy weather versatility, ability to set a riding sail at anchor, use of the mizzen boom as an outboard ...
CRUISING SAILBOAT RIGS: Ketches, Yawls, and Schooners
Mizzens on yawls also tend be rather short. On a ketch the mizzen is forward of the rudder and is usually significantly taller. In a classic schooner rig, the taller mainmast is aft and the shorter foremast is forward. On some schooners, however, the masts may be the same height. For many years it was axiomatic that a split rig must be best for ...
Fatty loves his ketch rig, especially in a blow. Ketches have two masts, the small one aft. To put it crudely, they are sloops with a small mainsail-type sail aft (but forward of where the rudderpost bisects the waterline). The advantages of a Ketch Rig are: All the sails are small and manageable; The rigging and sheet loads are lower,
Does A Ketch Sailboat Make A Good Cruising Boat?
So, in answer to the original question, although they're not the best choice for windward sailing, the ketch can make an ideal cruising sailboat. Lastly, the mizzen mast on a ketch sailboat provides an ideal place to mount your radar scanner and wind generator. And as one old sea-dog once told me, a convenient thing to lean against when you're ...
Understanding Sailboat Rigging Diagrams: Exploring All Types
There are several types of sailboat rigging diagrams, each depicting a specific rigging configuration. One commonly used diagram is the standing rigging diagram, which illustrates the fixed elements of a sailboat's rigging, such as the mast, shrouds, and stays. This diagram helps sailors understand the placement and tension of these essential ...
Ketch Sailing for Beginners
Boat: Hermann Lazyjack 32 schooner. Posts: 70. Re: Ketch sailing for beginners. As you suggest, the mizzen tends to push the stern downwind, with the result that the bow is pushed up into the wind. Try easing the mizzen. The "balance" you are looking for is to balance the tendency of the jib/genoa to push the bow off the wind, with the mizzen ...
A Sunny Look at Ketches
Impress your sloop-sailing friends with fancy ketch tricks. Sail backward through the mooring field (spin circles if you have a sharpie), nose casually up to anchor, hove-to with jig and jigger. Barrel westward on a reach. Turbo-charge off-wind sailing by setting a mizzen staysail. Dont fear a dismasting.
Pearson 365 Ketch
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize. Formula. 41.24. <40: less stiff, less powerful.
TAHITI KETCH
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5
Strong wind downwind with unstayed Masts, Cat Ketches and Cat Yawls
The following diagram shows why. In the left diagram with the mainsail on the conventional side you can also control the heel by sheeting the mainsail in and out. However there is a limit because the sail loses its power as it is eased - it starts to luff. Just when you need the power to pull the boat upright you lose the power to do so.
How to Heave To On A Sailboat
One, we need to stay head-to-wind to keep the headsail backed. If we bear away, the headsail will fill and we will exit our heave-to. Two, heaving to doesn't truly stop the boat. You will still be making a knot or two through the water. This is actually desirable, because you will also be making leeway.
MARINER 36 (GARDEN) KETCH
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5
IMAGES
VIDEO
COMMENTS
The Ketch. What's in a Rig Series #4. Ketch rigs hold a special place in many a cruising sailor's heart. There's something dignified and majestic about them. They are two masted rigs with a main mast and a (smaller) mizzenmast - they carry a jib just like a sloop. Generally, ketches will be in the 40-plus foot range.
A ketch is a two-masted sailboat with a tall mizzenmast mast aft of the mainmast. A key characteristic of Ketch sailboats is that their mizzenmast is shorter than the mainmast. The mainmast itself is typical and resembles a sloop mast. A ketch has a mainsail and one or more headsails on the mainmast, along with a single mizzen on the mizzenmast ...
The name ketch is derived from catch. [2] The ketch's main mast is usually stepped further forward than the position found on a sloop. [3]The sail plan of a ketch is similar to that of a yawl, on which the mizzen mast is smaller and set further back.There are versions of the ketch rig that only have a mainsail and a mizzen, in which case they are referred to as cat ketch.
The ketch rig is an especially effective rig for larger boats (40ft and up). Just a quick recap: the ketch is a two-masted sailboat that has a mainmast (front) and shorter mizzenmast (aft or back). Both masts carry a mainsail. The sail on the mizzenmast is also called the jigger. Your mizzensail provides all kinds of benefits.
This design allows for a versatile sail plan, with various combinations of sails that provide excellent balance and handling. The purpose of ketch sailboats is to offer enhanced control, stability, and ease of handling, making them suitable for both coastal cruising and long-distance passages. Courtesy of Yacht World.
A ketch is a type of sailboat that has two masts, with a smaller mast located at the stern. The smaller mast is known as the mizzenmast, and it is usually smaller than the main mast. Ketch sailing is a popular activity among avid sailors, as it offers a range of benefits, including improved stability, increased speed, and excellent maneuverability.
Impress your sloop-sailing friends with fancy ketch tricks. Sail backward through the mooring field (spin circles if you have a sharpie), nose casually up to anchor, hove-to with jig and jigger. Barrel westward on a reach. Turbo-charge off-wind sailing by setting a mizzen staysail. Don't fear a dismasting.
A ketch is a sailboat with two masts. The mainmast is shorter than the mast on a sloop, and the mizzenmast aft is shorter than the mainmast. Ketches are a type of sailing vessel that have been around for centuries. They are known for their unique design, which features two masts - the main mast located towards the front of the vessel and a ...
The two-masted rigs are: Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (a cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts. Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast is much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without a mainsail. Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts.
The ketch is a traditional sailing vessel that has its origins in Holland. It was originally used as a fishing boat, but was later adapted for use as a pleasure craft. The ketch is characterized by its two masts, with the main mast being taller than the aft mast. The sails are also asymmetrical, with the mainsail being larger than the headsail.
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5
Carol and I are both admirers of the ketch rig. Some Yachting Monthly readers may have seen my article on the rig (Six reasons to sail a ketch, May 2014) so I won't repeat all I wrote then apart from briefly mentioning some of the basic advantages of ketches - their sail plan options, heavy weather versatility, ability to set a riding sail at anchor, use of the mizzen boom as an outboard ...
Mizzens on yawls also tend be rather short. On a ketch the mizzen is forward of the rudder and is usually significantly taller. In a classic schooner rig, the taller mainmast is aft and the shorter foremast is forward. On some schooners, however, the masts may be the same height. For many years it was axiomatic that a split rig must be best for ...
Fatty loves his ketch rig, especially in a blow. Ketches have two masts, the small one aft. To put it crudely, they are sloops with a small mainsail-type sail aft (but forward of where the rudderpost bisects the waterline). The advantages of a Ketch Rig are: All the sails are small and manageable; The rigging and sheet loads are lower,
So, in answer to the original question, although they're not the best choice for windward sailing, the ketch can make an ideal cruising sailboat. Lastly, the mizzen mast on a ketch sailboat provides an ideal place to mount your radar scanner and wind generator. And as one old sea-dog once told me, a convenient thing to lean against when you're ...
There are several types of sailboat rigging diagrams, each depicting a specific rigging configuration. One commonly used diagram is the standing rigging diagram, which illustrates the fixed elements of a sailboat's rigging, such as the mast, shrouds, and stays. This diagram helps sailors understand the placement and tension of these essential ...
Boat: Hermann Lazyjack 32 schooner. Posts: 70. Re: Ketch sailing for beginners. As you suggest, the mizzen tends to push the stern downwind, with the result that the bow is pushed up into the wind. Try easing the mizzen. The "balance" you are looking for is to balance the tendency of the jib/genoa to push the bow off the wind, with the mizzen ...
Impress your sloop-sailing friends with fancy ketch tricks. Sail backward through the mooring field (spin circles if you have a sharpie), nose casually up to anchor, hove-to with jig and jigger. Barrel westward on a reach. Turbo-charge off-wind sailing by setting a mizzen staysail. Dont fear a dismasting.
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize. Formula. 41.24. <40: less stiff, less powerful.
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5
The following diagram shows why. In the left diagram with the mainsail on the conventional side you can also control the heel by sheeting the mainsail in and out. However there is a limit because the sail loses its power as it is eased - it starts to luff. Just when you need the power to pull the boat upright you lose the power to do so.
One, we need to stay head-to-wind to keep the headsail backed. If we bear away, the headsail will fill and we will exit our heave-to. Two, heaving to doesn't truly stop the boat. You will still be making a knot or two through the water. This is actually desirable, because you will also be making leeway.
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5