modern yacht anchors

An article from PeterSmith.net.nz , written by Peter Smith www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/new-gen-boat-anchors-explained.php

The New Generation of Small Boat Anchors

A number of new generation anchors have in recent years and decades distinguished themselves from the traditional types of days gone by. Omitting knock-offs, the Delta (late 1980s) is the last of the old generation – although a modern anchor, it is still a plow and therefore effectively just an improved CQR. The Bügel (1986) is considered be the first of the new generation, but only in the last 10 years or so have these more effective anchors started to gain commercial success and widespread popularity.

Effective anchor designs must at minimum meet the following list of requirements:

• The anchor always positions itself correctly – if it falls upside down, it automatically turns over under natural conditions
• It turns (veers) with the wind and tide without pulling free
• It offers high relative holding power and will not roll out even if dragged
• It will hold on the widest possible range of seabeds, handling the typical mud and sand bottoms well in addition to the extremes of very soft mud, very hard sand, grass and weed, kelp, and so on.

Occasionally new anchor ‘inventions’ are released to the market accompanied by an enthusiastic barrage of claims. Independent testing of these designs tends to pick up on outright failure to live up to the hype, as does the failure to attain any acceptance in the boating community. Along such lines a number of interesting looking anchors have come and gone in the past decade; despite such curiosity value, this article will skip these.

Examples of new generation anchors which have gained market recognition are the Bügel, Spade, SARCA, Bulwagga, and Rocna.

Differing approaches

Small boat anchors are most effective in an asymmetrical design, distinct to the symmetrical dual-fluke designs of history and larger vessels. An asymmetrical arrangement necessitates that the anchor will position itself in the correct attitude for setting, regardless of how it is dropped on the seabed.

The Bügel , developed in Germany by Rolf Kaczirek, is the first of the new generation anchors, and it pioneered a novel configuration involving a semi-circular roll-bar. The weight of the fluke rolls the anchor about the roll-bar, pivoting on the shank end. The Bügel is very primitive, consisting of:

• A straight bar shank
• A roll-bar to turn anchor
• A flat fluke with sharp tip to gain rapid penetration

It represents a good development on most old generation anchors, except perhaps the Delta in some circumstances, but is hampered by its simplistic configuration and non-optimized design.

The Spade, a development of Frenchman Alain Poiraud, is almost the polar opposite of the Bügel in terms of design complexity. Omitting a roll-bar, the Spade makes use of the old generation technique of self-righting: simply place a sufficiently heavy mass in the tip, until the anchor cannot possibly sit on its back. The Spade accordingly has a lead insert built into a dedicated ballast chamber in its tip. Additionally, the shank is hollow, fabricated by plate welded together in a triangular cross-section. The fluke is concave, for maximum resistance in soft substrates. The anchor therefore consists of:

• A prominent ballast chamber with lead insert to generate tip-weight
• Hollow triangular shank profile as an attempt to retain strength as weight is removed from the shank in order to achieve the desired weight distribution (except smallest two models)
• “Ears” to prevent blade edge penetration
• Concave triangular fluke for optimum holding power, similar to previous designs by Bruce and others

The Spade is a very effective and high performing anchor, owing entirely to its efficient fluke shape which improves drastically on old plow configurations and significantly on flat fluke designs (including the Bügel). However, on a weight-for-weight basis the fluke is smaller than it might be, on account of the dedicated ballast, which cuts its potential holding power. The complicated design raises fabrication costs and it is questionable if the hollow shank is of adequate strength to handle abuse in stringent environments – the aluminium versions bend very easily indeed.

The key difference between the concepts found in the Bügel and the Spade is that the former relies on force from the anchor rode to set the anchor (assisted penetration) whilst the latter is supposed to use weight distribution and an angled ballast chamber to ensure the optimum angle for penetration (passive penetration) even before any force is applied. In fact the specially weighted tip makes little difference to its setting performance, and is present for the same reason the CQR featured a lead insert way back in 1933: to make sure it rolled over and couldn’t stay upside-down, hence the term “ballast”. The Bügel avoids this requirement by using its roll-bar, of trivial mass contribution itself, and so greater blade area or structural strength can be attained by allocating the weight of the lead to other things. Only the primitive nature of the Bügel restricts its potential.

The Océane, Sword, and Raya anchors are the Spade designer’s attempted answers to the inefficiency of the ballasted Spade and its intrinsic expense, discussed here due to their connection with their big brother. The Sword is still available from the Spade manufacturer, while the latest iteration – the “Raya” – was available for a brief period from Poiraud in Brazil.

These designs attempt to omit both dedicated ballast and a roll-bar, relying on supposedly clever geometry to roll the anchor along its shank.

The Raya is the more sophisticated of the three, but it unfortunately proves something of a failure when examined carefully: it is possible for the anchor to lie on its back, from which position it will completely fail to attain the correct attitude for setting. Once in this particular position, the anchor can be dragged indefinitely and never self-right, as shown in the photo to the right.

The positioning of the shank at the tip also has negative implications for both setting performance and strength and durability (the large spread of unreinforced thin plate that forms the bulk of the anchor’s fluke behind the shank is of dubious wisdom).

The Rocna was developed by New Zealander Peter Smith in 2000, released commercially in 2004 following strong demand developed from early models produced privately for Smith and friends. The Rocna uses a roll-bar like the Bügel, and develops the rest of the anchor to a far more sophisticated level. Both the shank and fluke are carefully optimized in order to maximize efficiency, with an eye to strength and durability. The Rocna consists of:

• A concave fluke similar in form to that of the Spade but with more surface area
• Tip-weight in the form of a thicker tip section, which keeps the tip profile slim while adding strength to the tip
• Skids to assist with setting
• Sensible shank designed to minimize early setting resistance and enable practical stowage on bow rollers.

Testing and feedback demonstrate that a well-designed roll-bar anchor such as a Rocna offers both greater holding power and setting ability than a ballasted-tip anchor such as a Spade.

For more on the development of new generation anchors, and the Rocna in particular, take a look at Rocna designer Peter Smith’s Essay on New Generation Anchors .

New generation anchors summarized

Comparison testing

In 2006, West Marine carried out an involved test of anchors on sand seabeds. They compared 14 anchor types each around 15 kg / 35 lb, in three different real world locations (with varying bottom types). In addition to the old generation plows et al, this test included a number of the newer designs.

In 2011, Practical Boat Owner in the UK published an article by Professor John Knox presenting the results of a series of very carefully controlled pull tests involving several of the more popular new generation types.

Full analyses of these tests are the subject of the Independent Anchor Performance Testing article to which the reader is directed for more detail.

• About the Manson Supreme Anchor , a Rocna look-alike – or why to avoid copies

More reading

• A Process of Evolution: New Generation Anchors
• Independent Anchor Performance Testing
• Old Generation Anchors – What’s really the problem?
• Catenary & Scope In Anchor Rode: Anchor systems for small boats
• Anchor Rode Kellets – Uses and Applications
• Two to Tandem: Maximizing holding power with tandem anchoring
• Anchor Certification, HHP/SHHP Classification, and Type Approval
• Coastguard Handbook: Anchoring Beyond 2007
• Rocna Anchors website
• Rocna Knowledge Base

Tired of anchors? Take a tour of some of the world’s best destinations…

• Photo journals

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Tested: the new style Ultra Anchor

• Theo Stocker
• June 1, 2020

Anchor design is always evolving and Ultra Marine claims its new design is the best yet. Theo Stocker tested the 12kg model, with the Ultra Flip Swivel, on his Sadler 29.

The 12kg model, with Ultra Flip Swivel, was tested on a Sadler 29

At first glance the 12kg anchor with the Ultra Flip Swivel is similar to a Spade anchor, but with curves on three planes.

The upper surface curves strongly downwards towards the tip, so that it catches and digs in even on hard, flat surfaces.

The fluke is concave side to side to prevent ploughing, and the undersides of the fluke arc downwards with side plates at the back to force the tip down.

A hollow shank and a lead weighted tip keep the anchor the right way up. The rear bar prevents chain wrapping round the shank

The tip is filled with lead to maximise tip loading, while a hollow shank creates a stronger shape than plate metal and lowers the centre of gravity.

This weight distribution, supplemented by a central rear bar to stop the chain fouling on the shank, negates the need for a roll bar, which its makers claim can stop anchors digging in more deeply.

Article continues below…

How to choose the right anchor

Which of the many anchor designs is best for your boat? Vyv Cox helps you choose the best anchor for…

The underside of the fluke rises up to a flat section at the rear, which allows the anchor to pivot upwards when being broken out.

It is made in 316L stainless steel only, as the air in the hollow sections would not withstand the hot galvanizing process.

How we tested the 12kg Ultra Anchor and Flip Swivel

We used the anchor in a range of anchorages and heavy weather was simulated with generous amounts of power astern.

We spent nights at anchor and over tide changes, and I also dived on the anchor to see how well it had set.

I was impressed with how quickly the anchor set.

The Ultra Anchor was tested in a range of anchorages

While our normal 10kg Bruce anchor can struggle in soft sand and weed, the Ultra anchor buried itself almost completely and refused to drag.

On bare rock, the anchor slid across a flat piece of rock until the tip met a crevice and brought the boat up sharply.

As the tide changed, the anchor stayed lodged where it was and held the boat, even under astern power.

So the Ultra Anchor’s performance amply delivers on its maker’s promises as is comparaable to other stainless anchors.

If you’re looking at cheaper galvanized anchors, it’s quite a step up cost wise.

Flip Swivel

The Flip Swivel is a great piece of kit too.

No larger than a conventional swivel, but much smaller than other flip swivels, its ball joint reduces lateral forces by allowing 30º of movement in all directions, as well as 360º rotation.

The flip swivel has a nub at the top of the ball joint, which forces the anchor to roll the right way up

A small nub rolls the anchor the right way up as soon as the swivel hits the bow roller.

It’s made of CNC-milled stainless steel, with a breaking strain of a tonne more than our 8mm galvanized chain.

Specifications

Price : From £595 Price as tested: £1,104 Sizes: 5, 8, 12, 16 up to 360kg

Price from: £222 Price as tested: £267 Sizes: 6mm-26mm

Website: ultramarine-anchors.com

Also on the market

Prices start from £280

The Rocna anchor is instantly recognisable with its concave fluke, sharp tip and large roll-bar.

It doesn’t have a weighted tip, putting the weight into making the anchor as strong as possible.

The high-tensile shank is designed to make the anchor self launching, and it has been shown to have high resistance to dragging.

Website: rocna.com

Buy it now on Amazon.co.uk

Buy it now on Amazon.com

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence.

Prices start from £405

The Vulcan comes from the makers of the Rocna, but has been modified to do away with  the roll-bar, which can be cumbersome to stow on bow- rollers under bowsprit or pulpits.

It has a weighted tip, a larger, concave fluke and flared trailing edge to help roll the anchor the right way up.

Prices start from £384

One of the first anchors to pioneer a concave fluke and weighted chamber to increase tip loading, it digs in quickly and has a high drag resistance.

The Spade is available in stainless steel, galvanized steel and aluminium, and the shank can be separated for stowage.

Website: spade-anchor.co.uk

Buy it now on eBay

Buy it now from Jimmy Green Marine

5 Boat Anchor Types Explained (With Pictures)

I myself lost an anchor while out on the lake. It had been an accident, but we were prepared. I was so incredibly thankful we had a spare!

This article will break down the different types of anchors, their uses, and which will work best for your specific needs!

Table of Contents

1) Fluke Anchors

Let’s start with the basics!

The most common anchor used is the Fluke anchor. It is also referred to as a Danforth anchor or a Lightweight anchor.

Fluke anchors have high holding abilities attributed to their wide and flat flukes, commonly made from strong steel.

The Fluke anchors can firmly keep your boat in place. When the flukes at the end of the anchor dig themselves into the bottom with a sand bed, it uses the slight pulling forces of the boat itself to keep it in place.

This anchor type is often the anchor type used for smaller boats. As the name suggests, it is lightweight and easy to handle.

This anchor also stows flat, making it incredibly easy to store. This is important for smaller boats that may not come with high amounts of storage space.

Storage of your anchor, when not in use, is recommended. This is true for all anchor types. They are often sharp and painful when accidentally kicked or stepped on. They can also slide around if not stored properly, which could cause injury or loss of the anchor.

This is often the “go-to” anchor because you can use a lighter anchor for your boat than the weight you would need for other anchor types.

Choosing the proper Fluke anchor is dependent on the length of your particular boat. Fluke anchor weight can range from 4 pounds to 44 pounds or more.

Recommended Weight of FLUKE Anchors per Boat Length:

Some of the boat lengths that are listed above can be compatible with more than one size.

If your boat is on the heavier side or planning to anchor in more aggressive water, you will want to consider using a heavier option.

2) Plow Anchors

Another prevalent anchor type is the Plow anchor. You can tell it is a plow anchor because it will look like a large shovel or scoop.  The original maker of these anchors called them a CQR. A more modern option is called a wing anchor, like the Delta.

The Plow anchor has strong holding power in more types of bottom conditions than the Fluke anchor.

This anchor is also used on larger boats. They are more forgiving when the wind changes direction so that they re-set more easily.

This anchor can be more difficult to store than the Fluke anchor, but special chocks are available to mount them deck.  They also often fit well on bowsprit anchor rollers.  This is why some people purchase both a plow anchor and a Fluke anchor to meet the particular anchoring conditions.

Plow anchors gradually plow themselves into the bottom, burying themselves to create hold.

This anchor is designed to swivel so that change in pull does not cause it to lift out of the ground. This issue can be a problem for the Fluke anchor since it is not designed to swivel this way.

Like the Fluke anchor, choosing the proper Plow anchor depends on the length of the boat. The Plow anchor typically ranges between 26 and 60 pounds. This makes them heavier than the Fluke anchor, making them more difficult to operate but gives them more holding power.

Recommended Weight of PLOW Anchors per Boat Length:

3) Grapnel Anchors

The grapnel anchor can be either fixed or folding.  It does not have the ability to hinge or swivel. Like the Plow anchor, they use their weight to set and hold.

This anchor holds similarly sized boats as the Plow anchor but is usually used on smaller boats.  Its major disadvantage is that the upright flukes can tangle with the anchor line and pull the anchor out.

Like the Plow anchor, this anchor holds up in more bottom types than the Fluke anchor.  It does not usually hold as well as a Plow anchor, though.

Like the Plow anchor, the grapnel anchor is heavy to handle and difficult to store, unless it is the folding style.

Unlike the Plow anchor, the grapnel type anchor has some lighter options, making it a better choice for smaller boats.

The grapnel anchor type can range in weight from 13 to 66 pounds.

Recommended Weight of Grapnel Anchors Per Boat Length:

Like the Fluke anchor, if you have a heavier boat for its length or expect volatile conditions, opt for the heavier option.

4) Claw Anchor

The Claw anchor is also a popular choice because it sets easily and deals well with most types of bottoms. This includes rock, which the previous anchor types mentioned are not ideal for.

The Claw anchor has a wide three-claw design that was originally known as a Bruce anchor.

The Claw anchor, however, can be more difficult to set and hold well.  This means you may need a heavier anchor for your vessel than you would with the other options above.

Like the Plow and grapnel anchor, this anchor is heavy and awkward to stow.  But like the Plow anchor, it will often fit well on a bowsprit anchor roller.

The Claw anchor is relatively less expensive than other anchors, so it remains a popular choice among recreational boat owners.

The Claw anchor can range in weight from 6 pounds to huge industrial sizes. This is the widest range offered by all the options.

Recommended Weight of CLAW Anchors per Boat Length:

Because of the anchor’s range of holding power, quite a few options above overlap. You will want to make sure you opt for the heavier option to ensure your boat holds.

5) Scoop Anchors

The scoop anchor is the term for a number of the new generation of modern anchor designs.

The first of these designs was the Rocna, and now includes others such as Spade and Manson.  These designs are getting very popular because they work in many types of bottoms and have high holding power.

The scoop anchors have been tested thoroughly, and they will generally set and reset easier than the other options.  Because they set so well, you can often use a lighter weight.

However, the scoop anchor can be more difficult to manage and store on the deck or in a locker.

The early versions did not fit well on a bowsprit anchor roller because they had roll bars to help them set and re-set better.  Newer versions have resolved this issue.

The scoop anchor can range in weight from 6 pounds to huge industrial sizes, also.

Recommended Weight of Scoop Anchors per Boat Length:

Because the anchor’s holding power will depend on the boat’s weight and windage, it is used on quite a few options above overlap. If your boat is heavy for its length, you will want to make sure you opt for the heavier option to ensure your boat holds.

3 Factors To Choosing The Right Anchor Type

With a large variety of options, you are probably thinking: so, which one do I choose?

Most boaters agree that you should have two different styles of anchors. This will allow you to use one based on where you are and what you need.

This also allows you to set multiple anchors if needed. This can help with crowded areas or extreme weather. Setting an anchor off the front and back of your vessel can reduce your swinging range when that is important.

There are 3 factors to look at when picking the right anchor for you.

One major factor to look at is the bottom of the body of water you plan to boat in.

1) Consider The Bottom Type For Where You Are Going

This is one of the most important reasons to bring more than one anchor, especially if you are not familiar with the body of water or its bottom.

Bottom Types include:

• Sand : easy for setting and has a high hold.
• Mud : requires a deeper and wider setting for a stronghold.
• Rock/Coral : setting depends more on where you drop your anchor than what anchor you drop.
• Shale/Clay/Grasses : relies on the weight of the anchor more than its design.

Recommended Anchors For Each Bottom Type:

2) Choose The Right Anchor Size (Weight)

After you determine what type of anchor you need for where you are going, you will want to make sure you apply the size charts listed under each anchor.

This is to make sure you pick the proper weight for your particular boat.

When in doubt with any anchor I mentioned above, opt for the heavier option. This will provide more stability and security, no matter what conditions you might encounter.

Some boaters like to have one lighter anchor (a “lunch hook”) for calm conditions and a more robust anchor for overnight anchoring.

The final thing to consider is what your anchor should be made from.

3) How To Choose The Right Anchor Material

There are three common materials your anchor could be made from.

These include galvanized steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Some pros and cons of each metal type are as follows:

*If your galvanization begins to wear down, you can always get it re-galvanized.

Final thoughts

There are many other important considerations with anchoring correctly and confidently.

These include the size (diameter) of the line or ride; and the length of the rode for the water depth, called scope.  For instance, an all-chain rode will hold better than a short length of chain and rope.

This is another whole topic, though.

Hopefully, by using this guide, you can pick the anchor that is best for you and your boat.

The proper anchor can help you be confident while you are out on the water and gives you one less thing to worry about!

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• Boat anchors: A comprehensive guide to secure and stable moorings

Boat anchors are essential tools for securing your vessel in place, providing stability, and ensuring peace of mind during your boating adventures. Whether you're dropping anchor for a serene day on the water or anchoring overnight, understanding the different types of boat anchors, proper anchoring techniques, and considerations for specific boating conditions is crucial. In this article, we will explore everything you need to know about boat anchors, empowering you to make informed choices and anchor your boat with confidence.

The importance of boat anchors

Understanding the importance of boat anchors sets the foundation for safe and enjoyable boating experiences. Discover why anchors are crucial for securing your boat and learn about the benefits they provide.

Types of boat anchors

Explore the various types of boat anchors available, including fluke anchors, plow anchors, mushroom anchors, and more. Learn about their features, strengths, and suitable boating conditions for each anchor type.

Choosing the right anchor for your boat

Selecting the right anchor for your boat involves considering factors such as boat size, weight, and the type of water you'll be navigating. Gain insights into the anchor selection process and make informed decisions based on your specific boating needs.

Anchoring techniques: Step-by-step guide

Master the art of anchoring by following a step-by-step guide that covers estimating the anchor scope, lowering and setting the anchor, and ensuring a secure hold. Discover best practices and tips for anchoring your boat with confidence.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine.  

The marina is a quiet and safe place for your boat.

Anchoring considerations: Water conditions and bottom types

Different water conditions and bottom types require specific anchoring considerations. Learn how to anchor effectively in various situations, such as in tidal zones, currents, and different bottom compositions like sand, mud, or rocky surfaces.

Safety precautions and best practices

Safety is paramount when anchoring your boat. Familiarize yourself with essential safety precautions, including proper use of anchor lines, anchoring in crowded areas, and managing potential risks and changing weather conditions.

Maintenance and care for your boat anchor

Discover how to properly care for and maintain your boat anchor to ensure its longevity and optimal performance. Learn about cleaning, storage, and routine inspections to identify any signs of wear or damage.

Boat anchors are invaluable tools that provide stability and security during your boating adventures. By understanding the different anchor types, employing proper anchoring techniques, and considering specific water conditions, you can anchor your boat confidently and enjoy your time on the water with peace of mind.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite sailing destinations . 

FAQs about boat anchors

Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

The best boat anchor types for different types of cruising & their pros and cons

• Rupert Holmes
• June 17, 2024

Rupert Holmes looks at the different anchor designs and how to choose the right one for your type of cruising

Make sure your anchor is the right size for your boat; too small and it won’t hold. Credit: Nic Compton Credit: Nic Compton

Today we are fortunate to have boat anchor designs that are much more effective than those of only a few decades ago.

Nevertheless, anchor choice is still one of the most heated discussions online and there are a bewildering number of options available, at a staggering range of prices.

When researching this article I found anchors described as being suitable for a 32ft boat, for instance, at prices ranging from only £80 to more than £1,000.

You will be glad you invested in a new generation anchor, like the Rocna, when the weather turns. Credit: Rupert Holmes

There are many different competing factors to consider when choosing an anchor for different types of cruising .

This means a type and size that might be ideal for one owner may well be less suitable for another with a similar boat, but who uses it very differently.

Boat anchor types

Until 20 to 30 years ago there were primarily three different styles of anchor in common use aboard yachts and motorboats under 50ft – the CQR/plough, Bruce/claw and Danforth.

As a result, the bulk of second-hand yachts are still equipped with their original anchors.

It would be nice to think that, if this equipment appears to have worked well for so long, it must be perfectly suited to the vessel.

However, that’s far from automatically the case.

The later years of the 20th century and early part of the 21st saw an accelerating change in anchor design, creating products that are far more reliable than the earlier designs.

The same principles apply to motorboats and sailing yachts

Unsurprisingly, the new designs were more expensive, so were rarely fitted as standard to new boats.

My own experience of these over the past five to 10 years, with the original Rocna and the Lewmar Epsilon, is that they set far more easily than a plough or claw-type anchor, bedding into the seabed both faster and more firmly.

The extent to which an anchor is used also varies widely.

Some owners barely use them from one season to the next, while others will spend almost every night on the hook.

Nevertheless, it’s important that, even for infrequent users, ground tackle is part of the safety kit – to the extent that minimum standards are mandated for offshore racing boats.

The anchor, for instance, may be one of the things that keep you safe in the event of engine failure , stopping you from blowing onto a lee shore at the entrance to a harbour or drifting into a deep water shipping channel.

At the other end of the spectrum, anyone voyaging longer distances may need to rely on the anchor even in severe conditions.

If you attach your anchor chain with a shackle or swivel, make sure you use parts with maximum load in mind

That’s as relevant for those cruising in the Mediterranean , where winter storms and summer squalls have the potential to blow at gale or severe gale force and very occasionally even hurricane force, as for those in North Atlantic waters.

Magazine articles about anchors traditionally talked about the types of seabed each one performs best.

However, in reality, that’s of little help when choosing an anchor as few of us are set up to routinely swap to a different anchor when visiting different places.

Nevertheless, it’s helpful to remember that, in general, the larger the size of the particles on the seabed the lower the intrinsic holding power.

Mud and fine sand therefore offer far better holding than coarse sand, shells or gravel.

Which boat anchor should I choose?

Boat anchor for daysailing.

This is perhaps the least demanding use case, as there’s no need to ensure the boat is safe overnight and considerations are therefore likely to focus around ease of handling.

On a small boat that may point to a lighter-weight anchor with reasonably compact dimensions.

But don’t be tempted by one that is simply too small for your boat.

And if you’re in the habit of leaving the boat at anchor while going ashore for a walk or lunch it’s more important to choose one that gives maximum chance of retaining grip, even with a change of tidal stream or wind direction.

Boat anchor for weekending

If anchoring in tidal estuaries, like the Taw-Torridge Estuary, make sure you have an anchor that can reset quickly. Credit: MH Coast/Alamy

Spending a night on board while at anchor is second nature to many old hands, but can be an anxious time for others and can interfere with sleep.

Today’s GPS-based anchor alarms can help in this respect, but the fundamentals of having good ground tackle that’s well dug in, along with ground tackle that’s suitable for the boat remain as essential as ever.

Few weekenders need ground tackle that will hold the boat in full gale conditions.

However, if anchoring in tidal estuaries it’s important to have an anchor type that will reset quickly if it breaks out on the change of tide.

Boat anchor for coastal cruising

In most cases, this is a similar situation to weekending, at least around the eastern and southern coasts of the UK.

With conscientious planning and a close eye on the forecast, there’s every chance of being able to be safely moored in a sheltered port well before unsettled weather arrives.

However, those who keep their boats in more remote and exposed areas such as the west coast of Ireland or Scotland, or even the far west of Cornwall, are likely to want the same level of ground tackle as those cruising longer distances offshore.

Boat anchor for offshore cruising

As distances get longer, or safe harbours more scarce, then there’s more chance of needing to anchor in bigger winds or more exposed locations.

This calls for bullet-proof gear that’s well-matched to the boat.

Boat anchor for liveaboard and long-distance cruising

Most of the time this calls for similar tackle to offshore cruising , but with two further considerations.

One is an extra-heavy storm anchor that you hope will never get used, but may get you out of trouble in severe weather.

The second is a plan for what would happen should you lose an anchor.

I’ve only lost one in almost 100,000 miles of sailing – but they can get snagged and that occasionally happens in places where it’s not possible to get a diver to recover it, and where the nearest chandlery is hundreds of miles away.

Many long-term cruisers therefore carry a third anchor and rode as a spare.

Boat anchor for dinghy and small-boat cruising

One issue with older generation anchors on smaller boats is that they often need to be of a certain weight – a minimum of 20lb (9kg) is good – to be sure of digging into harder types of seabed, or penetrating weak, which can be problematic for handling and stowage.

Newer generation anchors can, therefore, be advantageous, as smaller sizes will dig in more readily.

While some unbranded anchors can be of acceptable quality others may be lacking.

A drop-forged product will always be superior to a poor-quality casting, which may be brittle.

Equally, I’ve seen examples of anchors with poor welding or galvanising.

Stainless steel anchors are at the other end of the spectrum – some are works of art but they’re often four times the price of a branded galvanised anchor of the same type, without offering any greater holding power.

Types of boat anchor

1. cqr/plough.

CQR anchors are readily available on the second-hand market

This design was originally developed in the 1930s and has remained popular ever since.

Generations of boat owners have therefore relied on plough anchors and in general, they’re well-proven, especially in mud and fine sand.

However, performance is markedly less good in larger particles such as broken shells and gravel.

With the patents now long since expired, many plough-style anchors are generic unbranded models and are among the most affordable of new anchors, while older CQRs are often found in boat jumbles at even more attractive prices.

Today they can make a good budget choice, especially for smaller boats, where the larger weights required than for a recent design may not make handling unduly difficult.

• Ideal for: budget choice for small boats, or as a spare third anchor
• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: unbranded £80 and £150; Lewmar galvanised CQR £230 and £410

2. Bruce/claw

The Lewmar claw anchor. Claw anchors dig in well in soft mud

This was originally developed for large-scale commercial use, including North Sea oil rigs in the 1970s.

It was subsequently refined for use on small vessels and was at one time almost as popular as the CQR.

One of the benefits claimed was that the shape of the claw was such that it could rotate in the seabed following a changing wind direction without breaking out.

Again any patents are long since expired and most claw-style anchors are copies of the original concept.

Some of these may be very good, but I’ve seen others with different geometry and claw shapes that may be more difficult to set and less able to hold as much load relative to their size and weight.

In the past, I have used claw anchors extensively, particularly in the Mediterranean, but snorkelling over them shows they rarely dig in fully, other than in very soft mud.

• Ideal for: budget choice if a CQR/plough style anchor is not available
• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: £80 and £120

3. Danforth

The Danforth takes up little locker space

Originally developed for World War II landing craft, and used for the Normandy landings, one of the benefits of the Danforth is that it stows flat and therefore takes up less locker space.

The large flukes mean it can hold reasonably well once dug in, even though it’s generally less good than newer designs.

However, it has a reputation of being easy to break out if the pull comes from different directions as a result of the boat swinging, a wind shift or a change of tidal stream and is therefore a less good choice as a main anchor.

Nevertheless, it can make a good kedge, especially when anchoring bow-to a quay Mediterranean style.

The original is still in production in the USA, though there are also many branded and unbranded products available that are based on the same idea.

•  Ideal for: budget choice for a powerful kedge anchor that needs to stow easily
• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: (unbranded) £100 and £150.
• Contact: www.danforthanchors.com

4. Lewmar Delta

Most new boats are fitted with the Lewmar Delta

This has its origins in the early 1990s and was developed as an anchor that would be an improvement on the CQR.

It lacks the latter’s distinctive hinged shank but has a proportionately large fluke area, which increases holding power.

Lewmar is a long-standing supplier to many large boatbuilders and the Delta has therefore been the standard fit on many new vessels over the past 30 years.

If anything pricing tends to be below that of many other plough-style anchors.

• Ideal for: better holding power than most ploughs at a very attractive price
• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: £115 and £135.
• Contact: www.lewmar.com

The Bügel digs in quickly, thanks to the sharp tip

The 1980s saw one of the first new-generation anchors and quickly set a new benchmark, though later designs have improved on the concept.

A sharp tip encourages it to dig in quickly, even in harder seabeds and has the potential to penetrate weed, while the flat fluke helps boost holding power, even though it’s not as large as those of later anchors.

The roll bar is its biggest innovation: if the anchor lands upside down on the seabed this immediately rotates it so the tip faces the bottom, thus enabling it to dig in much more quickly.

The ideas behind the Bügel were never patented and it can therefore be a surprisingly inexpensive anchor – a key factor behind its enormous popularity, even though later products offer higher holding power.

• Ideal for: budget anchor with moderate to good holding power
• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: £80 and £130

6. Knox anchor

The Knox anchor is best for use in rough conditions

Professor John Knox spent a great deal of his spare time researching the loads on anchors and rodes, with many of his findings published in PBO .

His work in this area over 20 years contributed a huge amount to our understanding of anchoring and the causes of anchors dragging or breaking out.

This work also led Knox to develop his own design of anchor that would offer significantly better performance compared to the popular models at the time.

It was therefore also one of the first of the new generation designs.

It has a patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle that enables it to dig into the seabed quickly and efficiently.

It’s fitted with a roll bar, while the shank is made of the highest tensile strength steel available.

• Ideal for: offshore and long-term cruising boats that may need to anchor in severe conditions
• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: £330 and £470.
• Contact: www.knoxanchors.com

7. Rocna ll

The Rocna II has a re-shaped roll foil to improve self-righting

The original Rocna anchor, which appeared in the early 2000s, garnered a lot of publicity and did much to bring the benefits of the new generation of ultra-high holding power anchors to a wide audience, quickly gaining acclaim despite an initially high price tag.

Instead of a flat plate, the flukes are more of a scoop shape, which provides excellent holding, while a roll bar helps ensure it’s always positioned ready to dig in quickly.

In addition, the tip is both sharp and heavily weighted, which helps penetrate the seabed, even if there’s some weed present.

This has several benefits – in a crowded anchorage it’s possible to position the anchor much more precisely and, if the hook breaks out due to a change of wind direction or tidal stream, it should reset almost immediately.

Scoop-shaped flukes on the original Rocna anchor provide good holding

More recently an updated Rocna ll has been launched with several improvements.

These include a re-shaped roll foil in place of the roll bar that optimises the anchor’s self-righting performance.

The fluke also has increased surface area, and a redistribution of metal within the anchor increases tip weight.

In the past, it was common practice for serious offshore sailors to choose an anchor at least one size larger than that recommended for their boat.

However, Rocna’s size chart is intended as a guide to selecting an anchor that ought to hold in 50 knots of wind.

Nevertheless, Rocna recommends: “… that perhaps multihull vessels, large flybridge boats and those who may encounter extreme weather should consider increasing the anchor size slightly, or if they are between two sizes, picking the larger.”

• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: £680 and £850. Note that the original Rocna anchor is still available at around half these prices
• Contact: www.rocna.com

The Vulcan can fit on a wide range of bow rollers

A downside of Rocnas is they do not stow neatly on all bow rollers. To solve this problem the company developed the Vulcan series.

It lacks the Rocna’s roll bar, but has a different shape shank and flukes that help it to dig in quickly and enable it to fit on a wider range of bow rollers.

It also has the benefit of being a little more competitively priced than the Rocna.

• Ideal for: boats that need a high-performance anchor but can’t accommodate one with a roll bar
• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: £450 and £480

The Spade has good holding power and can be easily stowed

Another popular modern anchor with a hollow shank that can be removed to make stowage easier.

This makes it an excellent choice for racing yachts and other vessels that don’t permanently keep the anchor on the bow, for occasional use as a kedge, or as a spare third anchor on a long-distance cruising boat.

There’s no roll bar, but the tip loading is close to 50 per cent of the total weight, which helps it to dig in and set quickly.

The main drawback of the Spade is cost – it’s more complex to manufacture than other designs, so the price is relatively high.

• Ideal for: high holding power that’s stowed easily in a locker or below decks
• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: £500 and £700
• Contact: www.spade-anchor.com

10. Manson Supreme

The Manson Supreme is good for anchoring on rocky seabeds

This was the first anchor to receive Lloyds Super High Holding Power certification when the classification was introduced in 2008.

It’s a fabricated design that uses two layers of steel for the fluke and relies on a roll bar, rather than a ballasted tip, to self-right.

The upper slot in the shank is intended for use in rocky seabeds, or in coral.

The idea is that if the anchor becomes stuck the rode can be slid to the shank end of the slot, enabling the anchor to be retrieved without using a tripping line.

The more recent Manson Boss has similar characteristics to the Manson Supreme, but without the roll bar, which makes for an easier fit on some bow rollers.

It’s roughly 15% more expensive than the Supreme.

• Ideal for: modern super high holding power
• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: £225 and £375
• Contact: www.mansonanchors.com

11. Lewmar Epsilon

The winged design Lewmar Epsilon means it can self-right

The Epsilon is intended as a direct replacement for Lewmar’s long-running plough-style Delta anchor.

Although the Epsilon’s shank is proportionately shorter, the two models share the same basic shank geometry.

Therefore, if a Delta fits your bow roller then an Epsilon will fit too.

It has a winged design with concave flukes in a scoop, rather than plough, a shape that maximises holding power in a variety of seabeds, plus a ballasted tip that enables it to dig in readily.

It’s also self-righting, even though the roll bar is optional.

I’ve used it in both muddy and sand/gravel seabeds, where it’s dug in quickly and held for days in winds approaching 30 knots.

• Ideal for: moderately priced and effective new-generation anchor that will fit most bow rollers
• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: £200 and £300

12. Fortress

The Fortress can be used on different types of seabed

This aluminium anchor is a Danforth-style design from more than 30 years ago that’s very light relative to the holding power the anchor provides.

This makes it a perfect option for performance catamarans and trimarans, as well as for smaller fast motor boats.

The key downside is that holding power is achieved through the surface area of the flukes, not the weight of the anchor, which can make it slower to dig in than other types.

Equally, like the Danforth, it works best with a pull aligned with the shank.

Although lightweight it’s also physically larger than other anchors, though it comes apart for easier stowage.

A neat feature is that the angle of the flukes can be varied to suit different types of seabed.

I used one recently for a week in Antigua for a 4.5-tonne 40ft raceboat that was anchored stern-to a quay in Falmouth Harbour.

Despite being only a 6.8kg anchor it dug in solidly into the muddy seabed and held reassuringly firmly when digging it in with the engine in reverse.

Nevertheless, I’d have wanted to use a different anchor if the boat needed to be left unattended for anything other than short periods.

• Ideal for: lightweight yet powerful anchor for straight line pulls.
• Typical prices for 25ft and 35ft boats: £210 and £300
• Contact: www.fortressanchors.com

Will the boat anchor fit?

If you’re worried about whether the anchor you’re considering will fit your bow roller, many manufacturers have PDF templates that can be printed out to create a full-size model of their anchors.

Some retailers, including Jimmy Green Marine also sell cardboard mock-ups at very reasonable prices.

Anchoring technique

This remains an important factor.

If the rode is dropped on top of the anchor, or if the hook is not given a good tug to dig it in, while monitoring transits to check for movement, then even the very best anchors will be less likely to deliver their potential performance.

Equally, choosing a sheltered spot with enough depth at low tide and with a suitable seabed are also important factors.

Continues below…

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Enjoy reading The best boat anchor types for different types of cruising & their pros and cons?

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33 Types of Boat Anchors: Which is Best?

Your car has a handbrake to hold it in place when needed. Similarly, boats have anchors. You slip them off the side of the boat and let them sink to the ocean floor, where they dig in stop your boat from drifting. You can use anchors in oceans and rivers too. But how do they work? Let’s look into specific types of boat anchors so we can find out which one suits you.

Parts of a Boat Anchor

First off, boat anchor types are further subdivided into six main categories. These are:

• Plow anchors – Hinged with a plow-like scoop
• Claw Anchors – Three forked claws
• Fluke Anchors – Hinged shank and flat flukes
• Hook Anchors – Hooks that fan out
• Wing Anchors – Solid angular one-piece wing
• Modern Anchors – Unorthodox hi-tech designs

On oceans or seas, these anchors work by digging into the seabed and using the weight of the chain to hold the ship in place. Things are a bit different in freshwater. But either way, most anchors are made of stainless steel or aluminum, and have the following parts:

• Fluke – This is the tip of the spikes or wings that dig into the waterbed.
• Shank – This is the ‘vertical’ piece of the anchor.
• Arms – These connect the fluke to the shank.
• Palms – These are the flattened sections of the fluke.
• Crown – Some anchors have a base piece that holds everything else together.
• Stock – In traditional anchors, the stock crosses the shank at the crown.
• Eye – At the top of the shank, the eye is a hole where you attach the line.
• Ring – This is a link that attaches the eye to the line.
• Shackle – Some anchor models use a shackle and pin in place of a ring.
• Pin – On some anchor models, this loops through the eye to lock the chain.
• Line – This can either be a link of chains or rope.
• Hinge – This connects the flukes to the shank if your anchor is a hinged model.

Incidentally, a shackle can be used to join several lengths of anchor chains. They may come in 90ft sections with a red shackle between them. The chain links on either side of the red joint are painted white. And a numbered code helps sailors see how much of the line is out. This is called marking the chain, and you can try it at any distance using rubber markers.

different types of boat anchors

Now let’s look at specific boat anchor types , where to use them, and how to tell them apart.

1. Hook Anchor

A hook anchor is sometimes called a grappling anchor. Grapnels were the first patented brand, but lots of others have followed suit. The hook anchor has four or more spiraling spikes called hooks. On some models, the hooks fold into an umbrella-like rod for storage.

2. Plough Anchor

Visually, plow anchors are a cross between claw, wing, and fluke anchors. It has a hinged shank, just like flukes. It has a single prong that’s shaped like a wing anchor. And the tip is shaped like the center fork on a claw anchor. Plow anchors are sometimes called scoops.

3. Claw Anchor

A claw anchor has three forks or claws that look a bit like a clover or a fleur-de-lys. These claws scoop up the sand or muck and release it to anchor the boat. The first trademark claw anchor was a Bruce, but these days, there are lots of generic claw anchors you can purchase.

4. Fluke Anchor

Pretty much all anchors have flukes. But the first trademarked fluke anchor was a Danforth. After the patent expired, other companies made anchors in this design – but they can’t call them Danforths so they have to use the generic name. Fluke anchors can fold flat for storage.

5. Wing Anchor

The first wing anchor ever was a Delta – that was its trademarked name. But today, lots of wing-style anchors are available on the market. Unlike other anchors that have separate parts, wing anchors are a single piece. Generic ones often have the shank welded to the fluke.

6. Spade Anchor

Spade anchors blend the best of delta and plow anchors. They got rid of that dreaded hinge on plow anchors. Unlike deltas, they have a bright yellow fluke with a centralized welding seam. If they fall sideways, the shape and chain pull the fluke back into the correct position.

7. CQR Anchor

CQR is the first plow anchor ever made, and once the patent expired, other brands started making generic versions. The downside of plow anchors is the lateral positioning of the hinge. When the boat tugs on the shank, the anchor often turns sideways and won’t set well.

8. Danforth Anchor

This trademark anchor is easily identifiable. It was the first anchor with a hinge and foldable flukes. The stock is a narrow rod anchored at the crown, pun intended. The shank is flexible, and this anchor can be folded and tucked away, but the anchor is useless on rocky ground.

9. Grapnel Anchor

A grapnel anchor is a modified hook anchor. Unlike regular hooks that are rigid and sturdy, grapnel hooks fold flat into a single rod-like structure. Also, unlike other anchors where the eye is at the opposite end of the shank, grapnel anchors have an eye under the folding hooks. Grapnel anchors (and other hook anchors) do better on rocky sea beds but are bad on sand.

10. Delta Anchor

This branded anchor is the first wing anchor ever made. It’s molded from a single metal sheet and has a single tooth or prong that’s shaped like an angular scoop. That triangular silhouette makes this the strongest anchor design around, and it often gets tweaked by rivals.

11. Bruce Anchor

The original patent claw anchor was a Bruce. This name-brand anchor was often made of stainless steel, which is pretty and shiny, but also quite expensive. The sturdy anchor was popularised on oil rigs. It’s molded from a single piece of metal with no stock and no seams.

12. Modern Anchor

Contemporary anchors try different shapes and styles to meet today’s sailing needs. They often pick bits and bobs from existing anchors, so they can be tough to classify. But examples of these experimental anchors include box anchors, Mooloolaba, Bulwagga, and Hurricane.

13. Mushroom Anchor

A mushroom anchor has a dome-shaped base that easily lets mud and swampy water filter through. It’s a lightweight anchor that uses a polyester line rather than a chain. This freshwater anchor is ideal for rivers and works best with jet skis , dinghies, and row boats.

14. Luke Anchor

A luke anchor sometimes called a fisherman’s anchor, is probably what you picture when you think about boat anchors . They have curved arms with a pointed crown and flukes. They also have a stock at the opposite end, which was meant to weigh down the anchor and hold it flat on the seabed. Many modern anchors have no stocks, opting for stronger pivots instead.

15. Stockless Anchor

Lots of modern anchors have eliminated the stock. Instead, they’ve been rebalanced to put more weight on the flukes. The stereotypical stockless anchor is a modified version with two large perpendicular flukes. The Japanese navy prefers these anchors over other navy styles.

16. Admiralty Anchor

Admiralties are fisherman’s anchors by another name. But while fisherman’s took their name from St. Luke, that famous fisher of men with a medical degree, the admiralty anchor is named after the initial UK government department that was in charge of the navy.

17. Ultra Anchor

The ultra anchor is an upgraded version of wing anchors. The lower surface has angles and planes that make it easier to recover your anchor. The hollow shank and curved lead-lined fluke tips sink the anchor deeper. This lets it set effectively even when it’s lying on its side.

18. Fob Anchor

In many ways, a fob anchor is just like a fluke anchor. Some models have a swinging shank while others have a stationary one.  The main difference is that the crown has finger grips at its tips. This makes it easier to lift the anchor when you want to shift it around or clean it.

19. Hall Anchor

A hall anchor is a stockless mooring anchor with a pronounced crown. The crown is bulky enough to stand flat, positioning the flukes at a vertical angle. This alignment lets the anchor sit heavier on the seabed, which provides a better grip and stops the anchor tipping sideways.

20. Rocna Anchor

Rocnas build on the success of deltas and spades. But while deltas have a V-cut above the welding joint and spades have a broader, concave surface with a centralized seam, rocnas have a hollow semicircular roll bar over the blade. It keeps the fluke from toppling sideways. Modified rocnas have shackle rails along the shank. Others like the Vulcan have no roll bar.

21. Bügel Anchor

Higher Rocnas (6 and beyond) have a shackle rail in addition to the eye. This lets the chain or line slide up and down the shank for easier retrieval. But bügel anchors combine the roll bar of Mantus anchors with a fluke that’s similar to spades and plows… except it’s flat.

22. Manson Ray Anchor

The Manson Ray is a brand name anchor designed in the claw style. It’s molded from a single sheet of metal and the side claws help it grip the ground. But like many claw anchors, it often tips sideways, leaving only one claw submerged, so it’s not as steady when it sets.

23. Britany Anchor

This modified fluke anchor does away with the hinged stock. Instead, the crown is welded to the flukes with a small crossbar, allowing the anchor to lie flat in the boat as well as the seabed. In theory, this makes it easier to bite into sand, seaweed, and other plant matter.

24. Fortress Anchor

A fortress anchor is a post-patent fluke anchor brand, meaning it was designed to mimic the Danforth. It’s made of aluminum and just like all fluke anchors, it has a crown made of vertical base plates. These help the anchor sit flat on the ocean floor. They work best in mud.

25. Box Anchor

A typical anchor needs sandy or muddy ground because it will skim over rocks and seaweed. But box anchors have a hollow box shape and outward-facing flukes on their top and bottom sides. This way, even if the anchor flips, it will course-correct into a 45° angle, even in murky beds. This is why box anchors don’t need chains. You can tie them directly to a rope or a line.

26. Freshwater Anchor

The main difference between freshwater anchors and saltwater anchors is their construction material. Marine anchors are made of galvanized steel, aluminum, or stainless steel, while freshwater anchors might have a protective vinyl film over a base of cast iron or carbon steel.

27. Mantus Anchor

Mantus anchors follow the example set by rocnas. They have a larger roll bar though. And unlike other wing anchors that are welded or molded, the Mantus comes in three separate pieces that need to be bolted together. Mantus anchors have a stronger downward push.

28. UHHH’ooooksHurricane Anchor

The hurricane is another mix-and-match contemporary anchor. It has two flat flukes and a roll bar. These work together to keep the blades flat on the seabed and sink them into the sand or mud. Depending on which model you purchase, hurricanes can be welded or bolted.

29. MoolojjuhihuihiMMooloolaba Anchor

Mooloolabas – sometimes called reef anchors – take their inspiration from folding grapnel anchors. The spiked flukes flank the shank to form acute angles and offer extra setting surfaces. Since the anchor has hook flukes on all four sides, even if the anchor topples, it can still grip the seabed sufficiently. Mooloolabas have ringed eyes on both ends of their shanks.

30. Bulwagga Anchor

Bulwagga anchors are quite popular, though they’re no longer in production. They have three flukes welded onto a hollow triangular base. Most anchors struggle on rocky ground because they slip over the surface. Bulwaggas are particularly good in sand, mud, even stony seabeds.

31. Nautical Navy Anchor

The Navy anchor is a variant of the fisherman’s, luke, or kedge anchor. The difference is that the stock is shorter and sits lower on the shank. The eye is bigger too. Of course, the anchors typically used by modern navies are stockless. But this icon is still popular as a sailor tattoo.

32. River Anchor

River anchors are smaller than marine ones. They are used in rivers, streams, ponds, or dams. The anchor has three ‘ears’ that tip the anchor onto its side when it hits that soft, mushy waterbed. The ears scoop and release any sand, weeds, or mud without getting tangled up.

33. Fisherman’s Anchor

Our last anchor has that stereotypical design. But it’s an upgrade of the St. Luke anchor that it was based on. Instead of a permanent stock, many fisherman’s anchors – also called kedge anchors – have an L-shaped stock with a ball-shaped tip. The stock is screwed into position.

Do you know any boat anchor types we haven’t mentioned? Share them in the comments!

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Thank you very much for your thorough effort in defining and explaining the different types of anchors. Hesham from Egypt!

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Modern Style Anchors: Are They Any Better Than the Classics

Modern Anchors  Offer Big Improvements Over Classics

At first glance, anchors seem like one of the least interesting pieces of technology on your boat. It’s just a big metal hook that you throw overboard. Some boaters rarely use their anchors, while others use them every day of the year. For cruisers traveling long distances and living “on the hook,” anchors are one of their most essential pieces of safety equipment. A good anchor will mean the difference between a good night’s rest and constant stressful anchor watches.

While they may seem unsophisticated, there has been a lot of research and design put into new types of anchors since the mid-1980s. Anchors designed before this time are known as traditional or conventional anchors. Modern anchors have design features made possible by new manufacturing methods and years of testing.

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What Does an Anchor Need to Do?

To understand what makes modern anchors better, you need first to consider all of the tasks that an anchor is asked to do.

The first thing an anchor must do is fall to the seabed in the correct orientation. If the anchor lands upside down, it is less likely to set or dig in, correctly. If an anchor does land upside down, it should be designed in a way that forces it upright quickly when the boat pulls on it.

After an anchor hits bottom, its next job is to dig into whatever substrate is present. As the boat is backed down on the anchor to bury it in the bottom, it should give as much holding power as possible through a combination of the anchor’s own strength and the way that it digs into the bottom. Nearly all commercial anchors of the appropriate size provide fantastic holding power.

Once the anchor is set, the anchor should remain dug in should the direction of the pull change. For example, if the wind shifts, then the anchor should turn enough to accommodate the change in direction without popping out and losing its grip.

The last thing that anchors should do is reset themselves should they pop out of the bottom. This is the boater’s most-feared scenario. The anchor has popped out of the bottom and is no longer holding the boat, usually as a result of a sudden strong wind shift during a squall or frontal passage. While traditional anchors cannot be trusted to reset themselves after a failure like this, modern anchors commonly advertise themselves as excelling in this area.

Traditional Anchor Designs Explained

The classic method of anchor design mostly revolved around coming up with a design of hook for a specific bottom type. For mud and sand, a plow design was appropriate, like the CQR or Delta anchors. For grass or rocks, a hook was suitable, like a fisherman or a Danforth.

The most common small boat anchors to this day are Danforth anchors. Their folding flukes allow them to store flat, and they can dig into quite a few different types of substrates. Deltas are another popular anchor for boats with dedicated bow rollers.

Modern Anchors

The first modern anchor design came from Germany and was called the Bügel. It didn’t look like any other anchor at the time. It featured a thick roll bar atop a spade-shaped flat fluke. Bügels are still around, though they were never common in North America.

A much more popular design came from France, known as the Spade. While the Spade looks like a transitional anchor, its design is quite sophisticated. To ensure the anchor lands correctly each time, the roll bar is omitted in favor of a heavy lead ingot on the tip of the fluke. The fluke is concave-shaped to allow a heavy load and a deep dig into the seabed. The shank of the anchor is hollow, which increases manufacturing costs significantly but increases the effectiveness of the hefty fluke tip. Spades are very popular anchors to this day. Their biggest disadvantage is that they sometimes fit poorly on bow rollers due to their heavily curved shank.

The next famous modern design was the Rocna, designed by a New Zealand sailor. It’s a beefy anchor that combines some elements of the Bügel and Spade. It has a hefty roll bar and a weighted tip on a concave-shaped fluke. Rocnas are very well regarded anchors.

Both the Rocna and Spade have spurred many knock offs and competitors. Another brand of modern design that has become very popular recently is the Mantus anchor. It is a very similar roll bar anchor like the Rocna, but its bolt-together design allows it to be stored in a smaller space.

Independent Anchor Testing

Unfortunately for boaters, getting accurate information about how anchors perform in the real world is extremely difficult. Nearly all testing comes from the anchor manufacturers themselves. Oddly enough, those tests seem to rate their brands most highly.

Over the years, several magazines, including Practical Sailor and BoatUS, have performed various anchor tests. These tests provide a useful baseline to give buyers some ideas of how anchors work in different substrates and conditions. The trials are usually lacking bias but are performed under a set of carefully controlled conditions, very much unlike the conditions an anchor will experience during everyday service.

Several YouTube channels feature interesting anchor tests, some with underwater cameras showing you how the anchor performs in various scenarios. You can see how the anchors perform when the boat direction is reversed, simulating a failure and then reset scenario. It’s a great way to get a feel for what your anchor is doing and under what conditions you might run into trouble. YouTuber SV Panope is widely-known for these videos.

The internet is busting with anchor reviews , but many are highly suspect. Many bloggers, sailors, YouTube videos, and forum users rave about their anchors, but the quality of the information is questionable. Anchor companies have sponsored many blogs and YouTube channels. That’s not to say the anchors aren’t good, only that it’s tough for one boat to test multiple anchors over the course of cruising.

Can You Trust Any Anchor to Reset?

The bottom line is that no anchor can be trusted in all conditions. Modern design anchors feature better designs and more holding power for their size and weight. They will often set quicker and more reliably than a traditional anchor, and some may work in more types of bottom. Any anchor, once set correctly in the seabed, can provide incredible amounts of holding power.

But trusting an anchor to reset itself after failure is tricky business. If a boater suspects that the anchor may fail due to a wind or tidal shift, the safest solution is to use two anchors. Modern anchor users may scoff at that old-school solution, but removing the need for the anchor to reset itself entirely is the only fool-proof solution.

The most important considerations when picking an anchor are the types of bottom you plan on anchoring in and the weight of the anchor. If you will be leaving your boat at anchor overnight, or for anything more than a quick stop, you’ll want to have the biggest anchor you can fit on your boat. A starting point is to take the manufacturer’s recommended size for your boat and then move up one size higher.

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7 Different Types of Boat Anchors You Should Know

An anchor is one of the most important parts of a ship. The boat’s anchor provides stability for the ship to stay in its location no matter which direction the wind blows or how strong it is. Anchors are long metal chains with sharp hooks or barbed heads at each end that grab onto the bottom of the water and pull down deep into it to keep the boat steady.

The boat anchor is a heavy weight that sits on the bottom of a boat to keep it from moving at all. Anchors are usually made of steel and weigh up to 3,000 pounds. They can be thrown from the back or front of a ship, but they have been known to become stuck in the ground as well. Once an anchor has been set, it can be recovered by pulling on a rope attached to it.

History of Boat Anchor

History of the boat anchor is so complicated that some scholars have found it difficult to define what exactly constitutes a boat anchor. According to literature, while some historical records claim the anchor is an early invention, while others claim it was invented during the 1500s. Additional sources suggest that anchors are more recent inventions because they are not mentioned in any writings about shipbuilding prior to 725 AD.

The modern boat anchor is a metal device designed to be fixed to the bottom of a floating vessel to keep it from drifting. It was invented by the English engineer, James Dredge in 1837, and was originally known as a “Drift Anchor.” The first anchor was made of iron and weighed about 350 pounds. This design prevented boats from forming keels that could cut into the seabed and got stuck on rocks.

Types of Boat Anchors for Different Boats

What’s the best type of anchor for your boat? Since there are so many types of boats and water depths, it can be hard to answer this question. You need to consider how much weight your boat can hold and if you’ll be anchoring in sand or mud.

From small dinghies to cruise liners, all with different boat anchors. What anchor should your boat have depends on what type of boat you have and where you plan to use it. Of course, if you don’t know what anchor is best for your boat then it might be a good idea to consult a professional who can help you find the right one for your needs.

Admiralty anchor

Admiralty anchors are designed to be fitted to the bow of large ships, and are the most common type used on naval vessels. They are large, heavy anchors that can span up to 4 meters across. A series of ropes called “cat heads” is placed around the anchor so it does not catch or sink when its weight is borne by them alone.

The Admiralty anchor was first used for this purpose by the Royal Navy in 1887. Admiralty anchors are often used in waters that are too deep for other types of anchor to reach the bottom. This is because they are heavy, weighing up to 10 tons. They have a curved shank which penetrates sand and silt before being pulled out, which helps it to set in place. It has an iron stock at its head with a ring to attach it to a ship’s cable or chain.

Stockless anchor

One of the most common sources for an emergency anchor is a stockless anchor. Anchors have been used as a means of transportation since ancient times. The first anchors were made from logs with stones as weights, and as time progressed, the design was improved upon to include metal components. The stockless anchor has been around since the 1800s and continues to be popular today due to its effectiveness in holding a boat in place.

Usually made of metal, that holds a ship in place. A stockless anchor is special because it does not have the pivot point called the stock. This means that it can be set against anything other than hard surfaces without being damaged. They are also easier to stow on board because they are thinner and lighter.

With this new design, its necessary to carry an additional line called a drogue. The anchor is positioned at the bow and attaches to the ship using the drogue. Once deployed, the drogue will be dragged through the water behind the ship and pull down on the anchor until it reaches the seafloor.

Danforth anchor

Danforth boat anchor is a type of anchor that has a round shape and one long arm at the top. It also has a fluke or two bent arms, which provide a large surface area to dig into the ground. The design was developed by Thomas Danforth in 1807. This anchor is predominantly used for use on boats but can also be used as an anchoring device for light vehicles, such as cars and trucks.

For all-around use, Danforth boat anchors are a solid choice. These anchors are reliable in providing a secure grip on the seafloor to withstand the powerful waves of the ocean. They are also durable, making them last for many years. Most importantly, they have an easy release so even if you lose your anchor it still stays intact and usable for another day. The design is still the same as the original design, but it’s now made of stainless steel instead of cast iron.

CQR plough anchor

CQR plough boat anchors are a type of anchor installed in the bow of a vessel. They are designed to be light and effective, with a black powder-coated finish that resists corrosion. The CQR plough is a self-righting anchor with a narrow, flat blade that penetrates sand and mud bottoms quickly and with ease. The CQR plough boat anchor is an essential piece of equipment for every vessel.

The CQR plough boat anchor was invented in 1822 by Sir Charles Pasley. It consists of a large front fluke, which are the are shaped like an arrowhead, and a broad square stock behind it. This design eliminates the need for a second set of arms to hold the stock up, as with traditional plough boat anchors. In addition to being more efficient, this design also is easier to manufacture.

Bruce or claw anchor

There are many types of anchors that can be used for boats. One of the most common types is called a claw anchor. It has a set of claws, teeth, or hooks that latch onto rocks and other material on the sea floor to hold the boat in place. These anchors are very popular because they are light and easy to deploy. Claw style anchors can also be lifted easily if conditions change and you need to relocate your position quickly.

However, not all anchors are the same. Bruce anchors are a more affordable option from what is typically sold at boat retailers. Claw boat anchors are more expensive and have been known to be more effective in difficult waters.

Spade anchor

A spade anchor is actually an old design that utilizes a concave shape to help draw water up over its edges and out the top of the surface. The Spade Boat Anchor is a great way to get your boat to stay in one spot. The anchor is a two-piece design made from steel and weighs 10 lbs. It has a 2 inch by 8 inch spade that you can easily attach to any boat with an eyelet or shackle.

The spade anchor is a boat anchor designed to be used in sand, mud, or other soft bottoms. It is shaped like an inverted spoon, so it can create a large surface area on the ocean floor. The pointed head of the spade anchor digs into the bottom and the pointed tail keeps the boat from swinging around when it reaches its maximum depth. A spade anchor is most often used in smaller boats where there is little room for storage space.

Northill anchor

Northill boat anchor is a simple mechanical device to hold a boat in place. The Northill boat anchor has 2 main parts, the arm and the lead weight. It attaches to the bow of the boat through two steel cables. The Northill Boat Anchor is primarily used for keeping your boat in place on calm waters with large waves. This is due to its design which can absorb sudden impacts from waves.

Northill boat anchor is a sturdy and reliable anchor that has been in use for over 50 years. This heavy-duty anchor was designed to be used when deploying a boat at sea when strong currents or high waves are present. The design makes this anchor the only reliable choice when it is windy and rough outside. Boat owners can be assured that their boat will stay in its safe harbor no matter what type of weather they may face.

How to Choose a Boat Anchor

Anchoring a boat is an important part of boating safety and can be accomplished by using any type of anchor, but boat anchors are made for the specific purpose. They come in different sizes and styles so it’s important to choose one based on your needs.

Anticipating a purchase of a boat anchor can be an overwhelming process. Many people have no idea what they need to consider when choosing one type over another. Here are some key points to keep in mind when you’re looking for a new boat anchor.

Anchor Material

Buying a new anchor sounds like a simple task, but there are many factors that need to be considered before making your decision. The size of the boat and type of ground is just one consideration. Getting input from professionals can make sure you get the right product for your needs.

Anchor materials also play a big role in determining which anchor to buy and what type of performance you will get when it’s time to set the anchor. There are four major types of anchor materials: aluminum, steel, galvanized steel and stainless steel.

Anchor Size

Anchors come in many different shapes and sizes. For people who are new to anchoring, it is not always clear which size of anchor should be purchased because it can depend on the type of boat. First, select the type of boat you will be using the anchor for. If you are using your anchor to anchor a small boat like a sailboat, then an anchor with a capacity of 10-15 pounds would suffice. However, if you plan on using this same anchor to anchor a larger vessel such as a yacht or cruise ship, then you may want to consider purchasing one that has more than 15 pounds of holding power. The reason why anchors vary so much in their capacities is due to how they are designed.

Choose an anchor shape

When choosing an anchor, it is important to take into consideration the shape of the anchor before buying one. When buying an anchor, there are two types – a fluke or a plow. A fluke is pointed at both ends and used by most recreational boaters. A plow is pointed in only one direction and is typically used by commercial ships. If you plan on using your anchor for fishing purposes, make sure that it’s shaped like a plow because this will allow you to use it with multiple hooks without having to worry about losing them.

Anchor types for different water depths

Different anchor types are needed for anchoring in different depths of water. Lightweight anchors are best suited for anchoring on shallow sand or mud bottoms with less than 10 fathoms of water, whereas heavy-duty anchors are usually used to hold boats on the ocean floor at depths of more than 100 fathoms. The most common type of anchor used today is called an “anchor rode,” which consists of two parts: A shank (the part that goes into the ground) and a weight (usually made out of lead). Anchors can be classified by their shape as well as how they’re attached to the boat.

In conclusion, boat anchors come in a variety of styles and sizes. You should find one that is appropriate for your boat needs. If you can’t find the right anchor, ask around or try to find some help online.

If you’re looking to purchase a boat anchor, consider choosing one that meets the weight requirements of the boat and is made with good quality materials.

Always be careful when anchoring, especially at night !

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Brian Holloway

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We were just starting on our adventure, which turned into the most exciting six month trip I have ever undertaken. We travelled over 4000 nautical miles, completely circumnavigating New Zealand in the wake of Captain Cook. What was interesting in that in the whole of the six months we only spent 15 nights at sea. My aim was to see New Zealand, and we rock hopped visiting everywhere possible, and consequently anchoring most nights. I have a 35lb Manson Supreme holding a 35 foot catamaran, weighing 5 tons. We make a reasonable amount of windage. I felt that a 35lb looked a bit small, but in six months, on very varied types of bottoms there was not one night when we dragged. A marvellous anchor, that I would recommend to anyone.

Aaron Dixon

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I would like to tell you that 25LB Manson Supreme held my 23’ Pro Line Walk around like it was nothing. Where I anchored is a lot of sand, the anchor caught right away and the wind and waves that buffeted the boat around did not budge it. The fluke anchor I have would always slip, and I would have to reset the anchorage. I can safely say this is the best anchor I have ever had. I am so impressed I am looking into a smaller one for my stern (second) anchor.

Big Angry Fish

The holding power of the Manson Boss will help you stay on that perfect fishing spot regardless of the conditions.

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Wellington, new zealand.

In the 6 & 1/2 years we have travelled more than 45,000 miles, visited 26 countries, and have anchored at least 1000 times. We have yet to use any other anchor than our Manson Plough. It has been totally reliable in thin coral sands, in mud and in the treacherous grasses of the Mediterranean. Most of our cruising mates changed their anchoring tackle after disastrous anchoring experiences in the Med. Many were using locally made anchors. We never needed to consider a new option. The Manson also coped well in areas with strong tidal flow, such as the amazon with it’s 7 knot current. We have had the chain re-galvanised twice in the course of our travels, but the anchor is only just requiring attention. Thanks to you folks at Manson for an anchor that has truly passed the test of time… and distance.

FLORIDA, USA

Thanks to my Manson Supreme I survived Hurricane Sally in Florida. As winds reached 110mph there was an incredible amount of force at work, but my 80lb Manson Supreme held my Roberts DS440 steel sailboat, while I watched boats around me sink. I was very impressed and grateful. When the winds subsided, we found we had bent shackles and bent rollers, but the anchor was in perfect condition.

Colin Goldsworthy

We were caught out at Wangaparpara in what I would call a cyclone. It caught us off guard. We had a lee shore, a short scope, in poor holding with only 2 meters under the keel. We had no time to put down a second anchor.

During the next two days we experienced extreme gusts coming off the hills with swell entering the Harbour. That evening there was 95 knots gusts recorded at Channel Island. Our boat is 48 foot, and has plenty of windage. She sails on her anchor. We would sail up, go broadside and then get laid over with the gusts and swell beam on. Your anchor did not budge. The first night I sat and anchor watched, but the second night I was more confident and I slept.

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The Manson Supreme is reliable. Sets quickly, resets quickly, usually no more than the anchors length. Happy in mud, sand, grass. Best anchor we have ever had. Rode out hurricane Joaquin (25 miles west of the eye) anchor didn’t budge in sustained winds of 85 knots. We used this anchor as our main and storm anchor.

NZ Trade and Enterprise

Manson Anchors took a basic component of every boat, and considerably redesigned it to be not only aesthetically pleasing but a real feature on one of the best yachts in the world. This is a real skill and shows again New Zealanders’ ability to create a design that not only solves a problem but does so very eloquently indeed

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• Fishing Tips

The Best Boat Anchors Of All Time (Ranked Best Overall To Worst…)

• By: Joseph Simonds
• on July 16, 2021
• Found In: Boat Anchoring , Boating Tips , Fishing Tips , Weekly Newsletter: 7-18-21

• Comments (22)

It’s boat anchoring time!

Being able to quickly anchor your boat in any situation is one of the most important things for a boater (especially if you’re trying to catch fish and want to make sure you stay on your fishing honey hole).

It’s also a massive safety hazard if you have a small, weak anchor that won’t hold you during a storm, ripping current, etc.

But have you ever been confused (or uncertain) about which anchor is best for your boat?

Well, you’re not alone…

Turns out the majority of boaters we interviewed said they just bought an anchor “because their buddy had a similar anchor on his/her boat” or “because it was on sale and fit in the front hatch of their boat”…

NOT GOOD!!!

That’s why we had Salt Strong Fishing Coach Capt. Peter Deeks embark on a multi-month underwater investigation to find out exactly which anchors are best, and just as important, which anchors to avoid.

Let me tell you, the results were a bit shocking!

Let’s just say that the most popular anchors you see on boats are NOT the best!

Here are the main types of boat anchors that we tested:

• Danforth Fortress Fluke Anchor
• Common Danforth Fluke Anchor
• Small Fluke Anchor (West Marine)
• Danforth Steel Fluke (West Marine)
• Bruce Anchor
• Mushroom Anchor
• Grapple Reef Anchor
• Folding Grapnel Anchor
• Plow Anchor

Next, we tested each of these anchors out in every one of these situations (with and without chain – and with different rope length scopes):

• Hard compact sand
• Loose rocks/shelly gravel bottom
• Rocky/reef/wreck environment

So below you’ll see the following regarding this “best to worst” anchor test:

• An intro video where Capt. Deeks shares a few anchoring tips along with how we set up the test (definitely worth the watch)
• Links to all of the individual anchor tests (for you engineer types who like to see the actual underwater footage and testing of every anchor)
• Actual rankings for each anchor
• Conclusion video where we discuss the pros and cons of each anchor and declare a WINNER of best overall boat anchor

Enjoy this course and please leave us a comment below with any questions you have about anchors, how to anchor, or specific types of anchors you like.

1. Introduction To The Anchoring Test

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2. Links To All Anchor Tests (Actual Underwater Footage)

Click any link below to see the full underwater footage for each anchor type

3. The Boat Anchor Test Results

The point scoring system is based on speed and strength of hold with the following criteria:

1 = one point is awarded for an anchor fail with endless slipping before finally setting

2 = two points are awarded for an anchor that has slight slipping (or slight issues) but does set

3 = three points are awarded for an anchor that works perfectly and sets exactly how and when you want it to

The best anchors (ranked from best anchor to worst anchor):

• Best in Mud
• Best in Sand
• Best in Hard Sand
• Best for using shortest Rode
• Quietest Anchor
• 2 nd in ease of use and storage
• Tied for Best Structure or Wreck
• Plow Anchor (44 Points)
• Large West Marine Brand Fluke Anchor (37 Points)
• Small West Marine Brand Fluke Anchor (37 Points)
• Danforth Fortress Fluke (28 Points)
• Folding Grappling Anchor (26 Points)
• The Most Common Cheap Fluke Anchor (25 Points)
• Specialty Anchor – Best for Structure and Ledges
• Specialty Anchor – Best for slowing a drift or light force use

  Click here to download the Google sheet with all of the individual anchor scores

4. conclusion – the best boat anchors (ranked).

In conclusion, the BRUCE ANCHOR was the best overall anchor for fishing boats.

The Bruce, The Bruce, The Bruce is on Fire!

What’s crazy is that no one on our immediate Salt Strong team had one in their boat (we all had Danforth flukes and even a new Danforth Fortress – which was one of the WORST anchors).

But you can believe we’re all headed out to get a big Bruce anchor after seeing all of this.

The next time you’re at a sandbar, check out what anchors are being used.

I bet you’ll see more cheap fluke anchors and Danforth fortress anchors than anything else (which this study proved to be not very effective at holding boats).

Did you have any “aha’ moments from this anchor course?

Do you currently own a Bruce anchor?

Any anchors that we missed?

Anything else you’d like to see when it comes to boat anchors or anchoring tips?

Let us know by leaving a comment.

Tight lines and tight anchors!

Click here to download the Google sheet with all of the individual anchor scores

 click here to join the insider club, related categories:.

• Boat Anchoring , Boating Tips , Fishing Tips , Weekly Newsletter: 7-18-21

Ok, all the tests without chain are really useless! ANY anchor, should have proper amount of chain. That is just how anchors work. Period! And per Chapmans just sayin. That being said, most anchors hold better in certain bottoms then others. I have used a Fortress for years on a 22 Chawk Pilothouse (LOTS of windage!) w great success. But takes some skill to set properly. Also have have many other kinds and types. All have their place, and most vessels, even small, should carry 2 types, for different bottoms. But thanks for the great vids. Hope people can see, not having chain (really need 10ft of proper size for boat) greatly affects anchor set.

I have the grappling small anchor for my kayak. PLease let me know what you would recommend instead. Great stuff!!

Worst anchor – cement shoes Best anchor – 55 gal drum filled with cement, unknown, and whatever dumped in the tin can grounds off statin island.

Well I, too, had the winning worst anchor which seemed to be a reasonable one when I bought it. I rarely use an anchor since I am in shallow flats most of the time. That anchor didn’t last too long – it rusted worse than most so I pitched it. I use my old galvanized Danforth and it is holding up. Perhaps I will get a Plow or Bruce when the old one gives up. Shorter rode would be a selling point.

Get a Mantus anchor, similar to a plow but self righting. Best anchor ever.

No box anchor included in the test? I use a box on my pontoon and a fluke on my bass boat.

Please remember: You won’t use your best bower for holding fishing marks. For permanent parking. The chain does most of the work. Lots of heavy chain + cable up to seven times the depth of the water at high tide.

For fishing, you will use a very much lighter kedge. Possibly, even without chain. You will probably tow it from mark to mark. Very physical, even with a winch. If it slips now and again so what. Just curse and reset it. You will be on the boat after all.

Best Bower is your insurance for your pride and joy. Best you can accomodate / afford.

Kedge will be your bain. Usually lives like Odo in a bucket. Filthy, heavy, awkward and bloody hard work. Consider if you can set and reset it 10 times on a tide. Can I tow it? Make sure you can afford it when you loose it. Must trip easily so you can get it back off a dodgy bottom.

Choice! The excellent research has been done for you. Many thanks all round.

A rider. As a massive chain swings with the tide, it sterilizes the sea bed. Tremendous destruction. Use fore and aft permanent moorings in the absense of “Eco Moorings”. We are installing the latter, especially to conserve sea grass.

Did you test a Navy Anchor?

I think any “absolute” advice has to be given and/or taken with a grain of salt. I say this because everyone’s frequency of use, depth of water, and type of bottom they anchor in is different. For example, I rarely use an anchor (thanks to Minn Kota and Power Pole) but my anchor resides in the anchor locker of my 22 foot bay boat 24/.7. The anchor in my boat is an FX7 Fortress without any chain. If and when I do anchor (maybe 6 or 8 times a year), it is either mud or sand……and the Fortress locks up tight…..even to the point that, oftentimes, I have to use the boat to pull it up. I personally have no need for a 10 to 15 lb anchor in the bow! Obviously, that would change if I were trying to anchor in 10 feet of water with 20 feet of rope, or anchoring in grass, or ……….

I do indeed have bruce anchors on my boat. I learned of them long ago as a member of the sailing community as they are very popular with cruisers who live on their sailboats. I carry a 10kg Bruce on my 24’ bay boat and a second smaller one. I learned to carry what is called a kedge anchor which really is just a small anchor that you can either throw or manually place to help pull you off a lee shore, when you run aground or are in danger of doing so. I use a 7# bruce anchor with 5’ of stainless chain and 75’ of 5/16” nylon for my line. I can throw this anchor about 50’. Let it settle to the bottom and then set it and pull yourself either off a sandbar or back out to deeper water. It has saved the day more than once and it is also a nice anchor for a dingy or kayak.

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Anchoring Masterclass: How to Anchor like an Expert

Want to anchor with confidence and ease? Tom Fletcher shares some hard learnt charter skipper secrets for expert anchoring…

Tackling anchoring.

Have you ever had the Greek Gods of Anchoring displeased with you? I have. I once spent a week on charter with a wonderfully nice father and daughter, on board Sail Ionian’s brand-new Bavaria C50, and it was an absolute nightmare. What’s more, the yacht had just had a new 30kg Rocna fitted, so I couldn’t even blame the ground tackle! Everywhere I went that week I had to have three or four attempts at dropping before the anchor would catch. By the end, I was in tears with frustration, and still don’t know what I was doing wrong. The next time I took her out on charter I had no problems whatsoever.

In the Ionian we rely heavily on our anchor . It can make or break a week on charter so always make a point of checking what the yacht you’re booking is equipped with. Even for a 30-footer I wouldn’t want under 50m of chain. If I was being demanding, as a rule of thumb I would multiply the length of the boat in meters x5, to get the minimum number of meters of chain I would like.

Favoured anchor types will vary depending upon the type of seabed or the area you’re in. Designs like the Bruce or Fluke can be outstanding in sandy areas like the Caribbean. CQRs can be brilliant where tidal flow direction can change, as the design allows them to twist without breaking out. Even fisherman anchors or grapnels can be useful in rocky areas and riverbeds. However, my years of experience in the Ionian have taught me that a Rocna is the best you can get for varied types of seabeds. At Sail Ionian the whole fleet is retrofitted with Rocnas, or their sister the Vulcan which doesn’t have the roll bar.

Make sure your boat handover goes into detail on the windlass and where the trip switch or fuse is. You will want to know how to tighten the gypsy, and how to free drop the chain too. If you can test the windlass by dropping and raising chain, do so. It’s good to see if the windlass is slow or fast, whether it sounds healthy, and if there is any juddering or slipping (which is a good indication of a worn gypsy that should be replaced before you leave).

I have a real bugbear with skippers who don’t realise the importance of their crew on the bow. With a little training and explanation, they can be the yacht’s best asset when anchoring. I have lost count of the number of times I have started training a crew how to med moor , only to find that the bow person doesn’t have a clue what they are doing, and merely responds to shouted direction from the helm. I like to teach the bow person about techniques, types of seabeds, length of chain… all sorts. I guess some people aren’t that interested, but most seem to like to understand what they are doing!  A crew working together in this way is much more effective. When small problems arise, they can then be dealt with quickly. I like to teach some hand signals too, to stop the shouting over the noise of the windlass and the wind. A basic set of ‘drop’, ‘stop’, ‘up’ and ‘down’ are enough to deal with most needs. Knowledge of how to weigh anchor and control the chain when it’s coming in are invaluable too.

Don’t try to anchor on a steep declining seabed

This is one that is peculiar to deep water anchorages, of which we have many in the Ionian! It can be a common situation that you are trying to anchor near the shore, with the wind blowing the yacht off. However, because of the steepness of the seabed you have the bow in 5m of water but the stern in 10m of water! As you reverse and lay out chain the yacht is getting into progressively deeper and deeper water. The anchor just has no chance of holding as it is, in effect, being dragged down a hill. The moral of the story being to consider not just the material of the seabed, but also the bathymetry.

Deep water techniques

It is quite common on an Ionian charter that I will choose to anchor in well over 10 meters of water. The main constraints with depth are firstly the length of chain we carry, and secondly the strength of the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, a typical 40ft charter yacht will carry at least 60 meters of chain. Using the old maxim of 4-5 times the depth of water, we get a maximum anchoring depth range of around 12-15 meters. Our windlasses can deadlift a substantial weight, but when you consider the length of chain plus the anchor at the end, it is a considerable lift. We usually recommend to guests to always stick under 12 meters, much deeper than that and fuses can start blowing!

When dropping in these depths it is important to remember that it takes time for the anchor to hit the seabed. We often see people reversing as they drop, not realising by the time the anchor catches they can easily be 15-20 meters further away from where they intended the anchor to be. This can cause all sorts of complications, from changes in depth to distance from the shore for long lining. In fact, the most common issue this causes is when long lining; the yacht ends up much closer to the shore than intended, with much less chain out that desired! It’s easy to time your windlass over 10 meters of chain to get an idea how quick it is, then you know roughly how long it will take for the anchor to drop to the seabed.

I would advise positioning the bow where you want the anchor, then letting down 10m of chain, before starting to reverse into the wind, ensuring your anchor is where you want it.

Always look for clear water

The colour of the water is the first give-away of what sort of seabed you’re dealing with, and where in a bay you should drop the hook. A normal Ionian bay will have beautiful clear water and be a uniform mid blue, with patches of light blue. Those light blue patches are usually sandy, without any weed, and are a great spot to aim for. Firstly, you should explore the anchorage at slow speed, keeping one eye on the depth gauge and one eye on the water. Different parts of the bay may be windier that other too. Once you’ve picked your spot, look for those lighter patches of water and aim to get the bow over them. Here is another great example of where you need to reply on your crew on the bow. They will need to direct you to position the bow of the boat over the sand and drop the anchor there. Again, a little communication in terms of positioning and depth, or length of chain, is needed, so that you can get the anchor down on the sand before you start moving in reverse.

Wind directions & local knowledge

Considering wind direction is one of the first lessons to be taught about anchoring. It is, however, complicated by the fickle nature of the Ionian wind. At the mercy of island topography, katabatics, and even time of day, picking a spot that isn’t a lee shore can sometimes be harder than you think. Often a perfect lunchtime anchorage with a light offshore breeze can change to a lee shore once the temperature of the day increases and the afternoon anabatic winds start up.

The first time I saw local Greek charter skippers long lining off the beach in Marmagas on Ithaca I was confused. The morning breeze was light and blowing them onto the shore. I assumed their guests must have asked to be as close to the beach as possible. By the end of lunch though, the wind had switched to a feisty offshore 15 knots, gusting above 20, and my anchor was dragging into deeper water where I had dropped in the middle of the bay. Those Greek charter skippers were sitting comfortably, being blown off the beach, with the strain on their long lines, not on their anchor. It’s always worth keeping a humble eye on what other sailors are doing – there’s always someone cleverer than yourself! 

Free dropping chain vs. lowering on the windlass

As divisive an issue as any in sailing circles! Many who care for their own windlass much prefer to treat it carefully and drop chain freely, by loosening the gypsy, taking the strain away from the windlass motor. At Sail Ionian, we always tell our guests to drop using the windlass though. We feel it gives guests more control, and there is less danger of fingers getting near fast moving lengths of chain. There is also a tendency for the gypsy not to be tightened enough after free dropping. This can result in slipping when weighing anchor, which in turn causes a lot of engineering call-outs and a large fuel bill for a very quick job of tightening the gypsy to the correct tension.

The most important time to consider dropping freely, and quickly, is when you are anchoring in a very windy situation. Sometimes you just want to get the anchor down fast and keep the boat under control using the engine. This can be particularly true for long lining or med mooring in a crosswind. Releasing the chain slowly on the windlass motor can slow the yacht to the point where you lose all steerage.

Whenever free dropping anchor, it is essential to check the bitter end is attached to the yacht securely, and to slow the rate of descent as you approach the end of the chain. Bitter ends are designed to separate when needed, and the speed and weight of a full chain locker dropped without braking can be enough to rip the bitter end d-ring from the deck. I have seen the confused look on faces as the end of the chain follows the anchor to the seabed. Another good reason to train your bow person well! If this ever happens to you, try and note your position in the bay, or hit the MOB button on the GPS quickly. If they know where to look the charter company may be able to dive and find the tackle, saving you a large bill.

Checking you’re well in

Finally, a lot of the issues I see out there could be avoided with a final check to test the anchor. I often see anchors dropped and engine off within seconds, with no attempt to test how well the anchor is dug in. I prefer to sit there with the engine running at least 1000 rpm in reverse for the 5 minutes it takes for the kettle to boil, before I’m happy to relax.

It is a fact of life in the Ionian that there is a lot of weed on the seabed and often anchors can get caught up in this, appear to have set, but break free after a persistent snatch. But this can also be the situation when you have a lot of chain out too. The weight of the chain alone can be enough to resist light winds, or low revs on the engine. It’s only with more force that it becomes clear the anchor is not actually in, and the boat starts drifting.

I have spent many a stormy Vliho night on the bow of an anchored yacht in over 30 knots of wind and not moved anywhere. A well dug in anchor can cope with a surprising amount of force. So don’t be shy with checking you’re set, give her some revs and sit back for a few minutes. You’ll sleep a lot better.

Tom Fletcher is a hugely experience skipper and instructor at Sail Ionian. For more information, go to the Sail Ionian Website .

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The Rundown: An All Encompassing Look at the New NRS Slipstream Raft

Welcome to: “The Rundown”. In our newest editorial series, we’ll provide an all-encompassing look at the latest and greatest products from your favorite brands in the fly fishing and outdoor space. Here, we’ll run over high-level info, tech specs, and our opinions – all paired with a behind-the-scenes interview with product designers who have poured their hearts into bringing these creations from blueprints to the showroom floor.

In this Rundown, we’ll look at the newest release from Idaho-based fishing and whitewater vessel company, NRS , to bring you an all-encompassing look at their latest release: The “Slipstream” Fishing Raft .

Background:

If you’re floating down any river West of the Mississippi, on any given warm and sunny day, there’s a good chance you’ll be seeing an NRS raft making its way down current as well. These iconic watercrafts have been a staple to the angling community, as well as the white water community for decades now.

Based out of Moscow, Idaho; NRS or NorthWest River Supplies,  has been manufacturing watercrafts and other river-sport necessities (such as apparel, Life jackets, technical gear, and much more), since 1972. In 2014, following NRS founder, Bill Parks’ retirement, the company became 100% employee-owned. This is a rarity in our modern, fast-paced economy, and is an approach that sets NRS apart from any other river-product manufacturer out there.

Over the course of the last few years, NRS has heard an increased amount of demand from the angling community for more fishing-focused products and has taken the feedback in stride. With the release of everything from fishing appare l and outerwear, to new fishing-conscious PFDs and Kyaks, NRS has been dumping time, money, and resources into meeting the needs of the rapidly expanding conventional, and fly fishing communities.

It’s a culmination of these efforts which have led to the birth of what we’re talking about today; the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft . Or as we see it, A fishing raft like no other.

What’s New: 

When it comes to the Slipstream Fishing Raft , there are a ton of new features that have been put in to accommodate angling needs. Below, we’ll highlight which ones we think are most notable, and why:

• (From NRS ): “Slipstream rafts feature a streamlined design with deliberately placed d-rings, handles, and valves to reduce weight and eliminate catch points.”

One of the most annoying things that anglers experience when fishing out of a raft (or any boat/ vessel/ scenario), is line getting caught on things. Anyone who has ever fly-fished understands that fly-line was designed by the devil, and serves the sole purpose of getting wrapped around, tangled in, or caught up on anything that it can – including itself. With older raft models, things like casting platforms, protruding frames, and D-rings are the most common culprits when it comes to eating fly line. This is not only super frustrating to deal with when fishing, but can also severely damage your fly line. Which, we all know is pretty expensive.

The beauty of the Slipstream is that it was made with that issue in mind, and eliminated as many rings, valves, and other hazards for your line to get caught around. Most notably, the casting platforms.

• “4” drop-stitch floor provides a super stable platform, eliminating the need for casting platforms. Insert is protected inside a zippered PVC pocket.”

Speaking of the loss of casting platforms, we believe the drop-stitch floor is the key element that sets this raft apart from the rest…

With this new design, gone are the days of dancing around/balancing on elevated plastic floors while trying to fish. The new, 4″ drop-stitch floor runs level from the front of the boat to the back, providing a single, sturdy floor for all anglers and the rower to share. This doesn’t only greatly improve the front and rear angler’s experience, but also provides a sturdy and flat floor for gear storage, such as coolers, fly boxes, dry boxes, and whatever else you want on your boat.

Additionally, the floor is lined with an EVA foam pad which provides great traction, even when wet. It also features an additional valve, located conveniently underneath the rower’s seat, which can be inflated or deflated independently from the rest of the raft, at any time.

• “[Includes] Fishing Rod Holder to stow (2) 9′ rods”

One extra item that is provided in the Deluxe package, which we think is definitely worth mentioning, is the aluminum rod holder which can be attached to either side of the frame. We know from first-hand experience, the easiest place to break a rod, is in a crowded raft. In the chaos of fishing, or even just entering and exiting the raft, a slight misstep can result in $1000+ down the drain, or at least an inconvenient Saturday spent mailing your precious fly rod back to the manufacturer for repair. Neither option is very fun – but it’s something we’re all super familiar with.

This rod holder is made to line the outside of the frame, and conveniently stores your party’s fly rods in a way they’re easily accessible, and also out of harm’s way.

• “The frame includes an internally routed anchor system that’s controlled from the rower’s seat…”

The last insanely cool feature we want to make sure to talk about is the new Slipstream Fishing Raft’s internal anchor system. With almost every other fishing raft, the anchor rope lines the side of the raft and is exposed. This can lead to the rear angler getting tangled with the anchor rope, things getting caught in it, and unnecessary weathering from exposure to the elements.

With the Slipstream fishing raft, however, the anchor rope runs from the sidebar beside the rower’s seat, through the actual raft frame, and out of the frame in the back to the anchor. This creates just one more element of streamlined engineering that keeps unnecessary obstacles out of the way of the raft’s users.

Tech Specs:

Here is the full tech spec sheet from the NRS website.

( Note: these are the specs for the Slipstream 139 Raft , which is the raft shown in the photos within this article. For other models, please reference the “specs” noted on the NRS Slipstream 120’s Page , or the NRS Slipstream 96’s Page . These specs are also for the “Deluxe package”, see website for more details).

Our experience:

In the Spring of 2021, we were privileged enough to receive one of the first prototypes of the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft to test out on our home waters. Since then, this raft has been dragged over rocks, sent through white water, bounced off of trees, caught by hundreds of hooks, left out in the sun, rain, and snow – and has yet to give us a single reason not to love it.

It’s important when reviewing a product to point out the shortcomings as well as what we like, but we’ve had a lot of difficulty doing so. This raft is an amazing size for running medium to large rivers but is versatile enough to be used on small rivers, and even stillwater. With its streamlined construction and drop-stitch floor, our angling experience has been greatly enhanced, and we’ve spent so much more time fishing, and so much less time trying to untangle the line.

All this being said, we are even baffled by the price. You can buy the raft’s “Deluxe Package”, which features all the contents above, for all under $6k. In our opinion, that’s pretty unbelievable.

We don’t want to give away too much more, here. But, stay tuned for our Full Gear Review on the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft which will be coming soon.

An interview with NRS Fishing Manager: Mike Dolmage

In our final portion of “The Rundown” we had a chance to ask NRS Fishing Manager, and someone who has been working on the slipstream since it was just words on paper: Mike Dolmage. Here’s what he had to say about his experience in the Slipstream’s design process:

Flylords: Who are you and what is your position at NRS ?

Mike: I’m the NRS Fishing Category Manager and Hardgoods Product Manager. I’ve been a passionate fly angler for over 30 years, living life in search of the next cast. Fall and winter seasons you’ll find me swinging Pacific Northwest waters for steelhead and in search the rest of the year for new adventures on the fly. When not on the water, I’m involved with the preservation and conservation of our waters and resources as anglers.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Mike Dolmage (@inlandpnwonthefly)

Flylords: What was your role in bringing the NRS Slipstream Fishing Raft to life? 

Mike: My role was creating the vision for a complete NRS Fishing raft package. I conducted extensive research to identify the key features that anglers and rowers demand on a  fishing watercraft. We were focused on providing ultimate stealth fishing watercrafts for the adventure angler seeking remote fishing areas off the beaten path, and on keeping the angler focused on fishing without concerns of stability, line snags, or whitewater performance. Based upon the feedback we created conceptual CAD for the fishing raft package, and collaborated with our frame shop to make the Slipstream series of fishing rafts a reality. The Slipstream series of fishing rafts were successfully launched in 2022, and the Slipstream 120 won the 2022 IFTD Best Of Show Boat/Personal Watercraft. I’ve continued to travel all over North America and introduce the adventure possibilities of the Slipstreams.

Flylords: From start to finish, where did the Slipstream see the biggest challenges? 

Mike: The biggest challenge of the Slipstreams has been navigating the supply chain hurdles that continue to impact manufacturers and factories since Covid. Keeping up with the demand has been an awesome and difficult task at the same time. We work tirelessly to keep Slipstreams rolling out to customers.

Flylords: What was the initial thought process behind the Slipstream? What role was it made to fit?

Mike: The initial thought process behind the Slipstreams was to utilize NRS’s 50-year whitewater river heritage, and provide watercrafts that allow anglers to explore waters they haven’t considered before. We keep the adventure angler at the core of our product inspiration empowering them to take any journey the imagination can think of. The Slipstreams were designed to handle any type of water, and lightweight enough to transport/launch without a trailer or boat ramp.

Flylords: What kind of angler would you say each Slipstream model is built for?

Mike: The Slipstream 139 – designed for big water multi-day adventures or single-day outings with maximum cargo space and room for two anglers and a rower.

Slipstream 120 – designed for ultimate water versatility on multi-day or single-day journeys that require whitewater or tight skinny stream stealth performance with a rower and up to two anglers.

Slipstream 96 – designed to pack the most performance and transportability into a watercraft for a rower and angler. The Slipstream 96 is lightweight and easy enough to transport rooftop or in the bed of a pickup.

Flylords: What are some of your personal favorite features of the Slipstream?

Mike: The internal anchor system running through the raft framework and out the center of the stern provides an anchor system without any exposed rope.

The drop-stitch floor with EVA texture provides a rock-solid lightweight platform for standing without the risk of slipping.

The Deluxe Slipstream packages offer a dual rod holder that allows the angler to keep extra rods rigged up for changing conditions on the water.

Flylords: How do you think the design of the slipstream will affect the way that NRS and other raft manufacturers will design their rafts moving forward?

Mike: The Slipstreams set the bar for future fishing watercrafts to be ultra-transportable but still capable of whitewater environments.  We’ve transported Slipstreams for fishing adventures in anything from vehicles to helicopters and planes. The Slipstreams are an example of empowering anglers to reimagine a new horizon for adventures.

Thank you for checking out this installment of: “The Rundown”. Stay tuned for more activations surrounding the latest and greatest from your favorite Brands in the fly fishing space.

Thank you to NRS for working with us on this project, which has been years in the making. To learn more about the Slipstream Fishing Raft, you can find it HERE . Also, be sure to follow NRS on Instagram to keep up with the newest advancements from our friends in the Gem State.

This article was published as part of a paid campaign between Flylords LLC and Northwestern River Supply Co. All opinions presented in this article are genuine and solely reflect the opinions of Flylords LLC. 

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Ferretti Yachts and Riva to attend Moscow Boat Show 2013

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Written by Zuzana Bednarova

To be represented by Premium Yachts, Ferretti Yachts and Riva , two prestigious brands of the Ferretti Group, will be present at the Moscow International Boat Show 2013, displaying motor yacht Ferretti 530 as well as Riva Iseo yacht tender.

Luxury motor yacht Ferretti 530

Luxury yacht Ferretti 530 was very keen to undertake in collaboration once again with AYT – Advanced Yacht Technology, Ferretti Group Engineering Division and Studio Zuccon International Project . The compact dimensions, 16 meters long and almost 5 meters wide, allow the 530 yacht to deliver grand Italian luxury and cruising immersed in such comfort until now unheard of in a yacht of this size.

Ferretti 530 yacht boasts three revolutionary innovations: the full beam master cabin with chaise longue and two large open view windows that make it a real suite at sea level bathed in light, tones and the natural essences of teak. Moving the galley from the center to the aft section creates a unique open space that includes the saloon, galley, cocktail bar and the dining area, the cockpit area continues thanks to the tilting window. The roll bar free sky lounge and the spoiler allow the 530 a sporty appearance combined with elegantly formal lines.

Ferretti 530 Yacht - Interior

Riva , the iconic Ferretti Group brand, presented a new model at the historical Lake d’Iseo shipyards in July 2011. Featuring elegance and ease of transportation as its distinctive characteristics, Iseo superyacht tender , a 27 foot runabout, is destined to become a must-have for those who love cruising on both lakes and the sea, and, most importantly, design enthusiasts. It is also perfect for anyone wishing to enhance their yacht with an exclusive tender that will never go unnoticed.

Riva Iseo superyacht tender

Due to its ease of manoeuvrability and size, Iseo yacht tender is also ideal as a tender for large yachts. Innovative and elegant, it can also guarantee comfort in bad weather conditions. Besides the electrohydraulic bimini top, it was also designed with a waterproof, automobile-style soft top which protects those on board against water and the wind during cruising.

Please contact CharterWorld - the luxury yacht charter specialist - for more on superyacht news item "Ferretti Yachts and Riva to attend Moscow Boat Show 2013".

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Luxury yachts and other myths: How Republican lawmakers echo Russian propaganda

Two senior Republican lawmakers, the chairs of the House Intelligence and Foreign Affairs committees, say their colleagues are echoing Russian state propaganda against Ukraine.

Researchers who study disinformation say Reps. Mike Turner, R-Ohio, and Michael McCaul, R-Texas, are merely acknowledging what has been clear for some time: Russian propaganda aimed at undermining U.S. and European support for Ukraine has steadily seeped into America’s political conversation over the past decade, taking on a life of its own.

McCaul, chair of the House Foreign Affairs Committee, told Puck News he thinks “Russian propaganda has made its way into the United States, unfortunately, and it’s infected a good chunk of my party’s base.”

Turner, chair of the House Permanent Select Committee on Intelligence, told CNN that anti-Ukraine messages from Russia are “being uttered on the House floor.”

For the past decade, since Russia’s first military incursion into Ukraine in 2014, Moscow has spread propaganda and disinformation in a bid to undercut U.S. and European military support for Ukraine, according to U.S. and Western officials.

Some of the arguments, distortions and falsehoods spread by Russia have taken root, mostly among right-wing pro-Trump outlets and Republican politicians, researchers say, including that Ukraine’s government is too corrupt to benefit from Western aid and that the Biden family has alleged corrupt ties to Ukraine.

Russia, in keeping with traditional propaganda techniques, seeks to make its case and tarnish Ukraine through a mixture of outright falsehoods, half-truths, inferences or simply amplifying and promoting arguments already being made by American or European commentators and politicians, researchers say.

The propaganda is sometimes spread covertly, through fake online accounts, or openly by Russian officials and state media. As a result, the origin of some allegations or criticisms is often opaque, especially when a certain accusation or perception has gained wide acceptance, leaving no clear fingerprints.

Early in the war, a false story boosted by Russian propaganda — that the U.S. had helped Ukraine build biological weapons labs — gained traction on right-wing social media and was touted by then-Fox News host Tucker Carlson.

Russia also is conducting a parallel propaganda campaign in Europe. Belgium’s prime minister said Thursday that his government is investigating alleged Russian bribes to members of the European Parliament as part of Moscow’s campaign to undermine support for Ukraine. Czech law enforcement officials last month alleged that a former pro-Russian member of Ukraine’s parliament, Viktor Medvedchuk, was behind a Prague-based Russian propaganda network designed to promote opposition to aiding Ukraine.

Here are some examples of Republican lawmakers using arguments often promoted by Russian propaganda:

Buying yachts

When Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy met with members of Congress behind closed doors in December to appeal for more U.S. help for his country’s troops, some lawmakers raised questions about Ukraine allegedly buying yachts with American aid money.

Zelenskyy made clear that was not the case, according to Republican Sen. Thom Tillis of North Carolina, a strong supporter of arming Ukraine. “I think the notion of corruption came up because some have said we can’t do it, because people will buy yachts with the money,” Tillis told CNN. “[Zelenskyy] disabused people of those notions.”

Where did the yacht rumor come from?

Pro-Russian actors and websites promoted a narrative alleging Zelenskyy bought two superyachts with U.S. aid dollars. One Russia-based propaganda site, DC Weekly , published a story last November that included photos of two luxury yachts, called Lucky Me and My Legacy , which it alleged were bought for $75 million.

Rep. Marjorie Taylor Greene, R-Ga., a vocal opponent of military aid to Ukraine, in November retweeted a post about the alleged yacht purchase from the Strategic Culture Foundation, a Russian-based propaganda outlet directed by Russia’s intelligence services, according to the Treasury Department. The U.S. has imposed sanctions on the organization, accusing it of spreading disinformation and interfering in U.S. elections.

Another outspoken critic of aid to Ukraine, Republican Sen. J.D. Vance of Ohio, also made a similar claim.

In a December interview with former President Donald Trump’s White House adviser Steve Bannon, Vance claimed that members of Congress wanted to cut Social Security benefits to provide more aid to Ukraine, and that money would allegedly be used for Zelenskyy’s ministers to “buy a bigger yacht.”

“There are people who would cut Social Security, throw our grandparents into poverty. Why? So that one of Zelenskyy’s ministers can buy a bigger yacht?” Vance said. “Kiss my ass, Steve. It’s not happening.”

The tale of Zelenskyy’s luxury yacht, however, turned out to be totally false . The yachts cited in the DC Weekly article remain up for sale , the owners told The Associated Press.

Two academics at Clemson University, disinformation researchers Darren Linvill and Patrick Warren, found that DC Weekly ran numerous stories copied from other sites that were rewritten by artificial intelligence engines. The articles had bylines with fake names along with headshots copied from other online sites. DC Weekly appeared to be a Russian effort to launder false information through a seemingly legitimate news site as part of an attempt to undermine U.S. support for Ukraine, according to the researchers .

Asked by reporters about Vance’s comments, Tillis said: “I think it’s bullshit. ...If you’re talking about giving money to Ukrainian ministers — total and unmitigated bullshit.”

Greene’s office did not respond to a request for comment.

Vance’s spokesperson said the senator was making a rhetorical point about how he opposed sending U.S. assistance to what he sees as a corrupt country, but was not asserting the yacht stories online were accurate.

Vance’s office referred NBC News to an earlier response to the BBC on the same topic:

“For years, everyone in the West recognized that Ukraine was one of the most corrupt countries in the world. Somehow everyone forgot that just as we started sending them billions of dollars in foreign aid.”

Enabling ‘corruption’

Russian state media for years has painted Ukraine as deeply corrupt, and has argued that the U.S. and its allies are wasting money and military hardware by assisting such an allegedly corrupt government.

“This is absolutely a line that they have pushed, and then once it appears in the Western ecosystem, other [Russian] media picks it up and it gets recycled back,” said Bret Schafer, a senior fellow at the Alliance for Securing Democracy.

This line of argument has gained traction partly because Ukraine does face a genuine corruption problem.

Russia’s effort to focus attention on corruption in Ukraine reflects a long-established propaganda method of using facts or partial truths to anchor a broader assertion or accusation, sometimes making a leap in logic, Schafer and other researchers said. Russia’s message amounts to: Ukraine is corrupt, therefore U.S. and Western aid will be stolen and wasted.

Schafer said it was ironic for Russia, a country mired in corruption and kleptocracy, to be leveling accusations about corruption.

Republican Rep. Mary Miller has said she strongly opposes more assistance for Ukraine because it amounts to sending cash to “corrupt oligarchs.”

“With Zelensky coming to DC this week to ask for more money, I will continue to vote AGAINST sending your tax $$ to corrupt oligarchs in Ukraine for a proxy war that could have ended in ‘22,” Miller wrote in a post on X in December.

The Illinois lawmaker also echoed another assertion that often appears in Russian media, that the Biden administration allegedly undermined efforts by Russia to avoid war with Ukraine.

 “A peace deal was on the table that [Ukraine] and [Russia] were both ready to sign, but Biden said NO,” she wrote.

There was in fact no proposed peace agreement that Russia and Ukraine were prepared to sign before Russia launched its full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022, according to U.S. and European officials. As Russian troops massed on the border of Ukraine, Western governments urged Russia not to invade and warned there would be economic and diplomatic consequences.

Reuters has reported that Russian President Vladimir Putin rejected a possible deal to avert a war that had been discussed with Kyiv by Russia’s envoy to Ukraine. The Kremlin said the report was inaccurate and has said Russia tried for years to arrive at an understanding with Ukraine.

As for corruption in Ukraine, Zelenskyy has vowed to tackle the problem, sacking senior officials in some recent cases. But some civil society groups have criticized his approach and Ukrainians say corruption is the country’s second-most serious problem, after the Russian invasion, according to a poll conducted last year.

In an annual survey, Transparency International said Ukraine made progress toward addressing the issue and now ranks 104th out of 180 countries on its Corruption Perceptions Index , climbing 12 places up from its previous ranking.

Ukraine is not alone among countries that receive U.S. and other foreign aid but struggle with corruption. Supporters of assisting Ukraine argue it would undermine America’s influence in the world and its humanitarian efforts if Washington withheld foreign aid from every country where there were reports of corruption.

Miller’s office did not respond to a request for comment.

The Biden family and Ukraine

Republicans have repeatedly alleged that President Joe Biden and his son Hunter have corrupt ties to Ukraine, and that they sought $5 million in bribes from the Ukrainian energy company Burisma to protect the firm from an investigation by Ukraine’s prosecutor general.

There is no credible evidence for the allegations. A key source for the accusations against the Bidens is a former FBI informant, Alexander Smirnov, who was arrested in February on federal charges of fabricating the bribery claims. Smirnov says he was fed information by Russian intelligence.

Republicans had heavily promoted Smirnov’s allegations against the Bidens, seeing them as crucial to a planned impeachment effort against the president that has since fizzled .

“In my estimation, that is probably the clearest example of Russian propaganda working its way into the American political system,” said Emerson Brooking, a resident senior fellow at the Digital Forensic Research Lab of the Atlantic Council.

GOP Rep. Paul Gosar of Arizona cited the false bribery allegations in expressing his opposition to providing assistance to Ukraine.

“In exchange for … bribe money from Ukraine, Joe Biden has dished out over $100 billion in taxpayer money to fund the war in Ukraine. I will not assist this corruption by sending more money to the authoritarian Ukrainian regime,” Gosar said in a statement in October.

Gosar’s office did not respond to a request for comment.

Dan De Luce is a reporter for the NBC News Investigative Unit. 

Syedah Asghar is a Capitol Hill researcher for NBC News and is based in Washington, D.C.