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New dry-stack at Universal

Hamble River marina joins growing list of dry-stacks

Hamble Yacht Services (HYS) Universal have opened 60 new dry racking facilities at Universal Marina.

Based on the eastern side of the River Hamble, the facilities have been developed as part of ongoing improvements at the Universal Marina site.

Last year HYS opened up popular dry-racking facilities in Port Hamble.

The demand for these services, which far exceeded the berths available, resulted in HYS investing in the development of additional dry-racking at Universal, which has included the purchase of a custom built fork lift and development of an operational area.

The dry racking facilities at HYS Universal can accommodate boats up to 10 meters in length weighing no more than 10 tons.

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They say: “Storage rates are comparable to other berthing facilities in the area.

“In addition, customers benefit from reduced maintenance costs because dry storage reduces the need to remove fouling regularly from the bottom of the boat, and a clean hull also helps reduce fuel consumption.”

Malcolm Hearnden, General Manager of Hamble Yacht Services (HYS) says: “The company is delighted to expand its dry sailing service, with the installation of a fully customised dry racking system for ribs and power boats up to 10 meters on the eastern side of the Hamble River.

“With the continued development at Universal Marina, these latest facilities make it one off the best service yards on the river, with quick access to the Solent.”

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Welcome to Universal Marina

Universal Marina

Nestled on the east bank of the beautiful River Hamble, Premier’s Universal Marina provides a hidden oasis for a wide range of boats.

A short drive down the local access road reveals this hidden gem. Surrounded by trees, Universal feels a world away from the bustle of life, and yet the marina is within easy reach of the Solent and all its waters have to offer. Meanwhile, you’ll find a full-service boatyard, dry stack boat storage and a range of marina berths all with 24-hour access and private parking.

River Hamble atmosphere

The beauty of the River Hamble is very evident at Universal. You can make the most of its relaxing atmosphere ashore with a choice of the cosy Mermaid’s coffee shop or a full dining experience at the riverside Banana Wharf restaurant. Enjoy tranquil walks along the tree-lined riverbanks, with the knowledge that the conveniences of Portsmouth or Southampton are just a short drive away.

Click to watch an aerial view of Universal Marina. 

Boatyard expertise

A secluded and intimate feel makes for a relaxing environment, whether you’re looking for marina berthing or shoreside storage, with all the main facilities onsite. The boatyard maintains an air of calm, even at the busiest times and there’s a small chandlery. From marine electronics to rigging and engineering, a surprising number of specialist companies are tucked away here, attracted by the marina’s unique charm.

You can follow the latest news, events and updates from the team on the  Universal Marina Facebook page . 

Get a quote

If you would like a personalised price for berthing or boatyard services at Universal Marina you can get a quick quote online here.

Universal Marina features

Universal Marina has all the services you’d expect from a premium marina.

24-hour security

Fuel pontoon, electricity, personal bathrooms, full-service boatyard.

Boatyard services

Universal Marina's full-service boatyard has a modern hoist bay and waiting pontoon. Lift, launch and block-off services are provided by the friendly, specialist team. There’s a small onsite chandlery, which happens to specialise in anodes. A wide range of onsite expert companies are poised to help with any professional repairs or maintenance work. 

• High pressure hull cleaning
• Lift, launch and block-off
• Boat storage

With additional companies available onsite to assist with

• Maintenance and repair
• Engine lifts
• Mast removal

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Getting to Universal Marina

Universal Marina is tucked away on the east bank of the Hamble River and has excellent access by road, rail and air. Situated just seven miles east of Southampton and three miles from the M27. 

Premier Marinas Universal Marina, Crableck Lane, Sarisbury Green, Southampton, Hampshire SO31 7ZN

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What is happening to Dry stack sailing at Universal Marina?

• Thread starter PurpleKate
• Start date 8 Dec 2017

Two friends of mine who both dry sail J105's from Universal Marina received the note below by email. Anyone got any background to what is happening? Universal has a fairly large and successful group of racers who dry sail from the Marina regularly winning Offshore JOG, RORC, SORC etc. Having been a berth holder for a while the racing fleet seems to grow which you would think would be welcomed, but now it seems the Marina is just sweeping them aside. Im struggling to believe it can be safety as other Marinas like Hamble Yacht Services are still offering dry sailing? Is a Marina really going to chuck out all its racers to put ecopods on the space? Personally Im upset as I guess all my racing friends are going to be moving, I also hear from my friend big price rises are set for 2018. Maybe its time to move with them all... Thoughts? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here at Universal Marina we are undergoing lots of new and exciting projects which are already starting to take shape. Over the next few years the Marina will have an array of new features including Eco Pods, Shepherds Huts, an Exclusive Retreat, fishing lake, and water sports facilities to name but a few. To acknowledge our permanent berth holders, they will have their own exclusive use lounge area and private showers. All exciting stuff! We are writing to you now to inform you that as a customer on our ‘Dry Sail’ scheme, having completed our Risk Assessments for the coming year, due to the nature of your vessel unfortunately we will no longer be able to offer you the same facility. To explain in more detail, boats with deep drafts and soft hulls are far more likely to suffer from cradle failure than any other type and with the Dry Sail scheme having frequent lifts in and out during the sea son, it puts us in a position of liability as this hull type is not designed for regular lift outs and it puts excessive load on the keel itself. You may notice that a few of the current Dry Sail customers will remain for next season; this is purely because of their combined weight distribution and design lending itself more suitably to lifting. In order to further the overall service provided at Universal Marina, we feel this is an appropriate opportunity to improve our company operations from a safety standpoint. Over the past years the Marina have been happy to accommodate the Dry Sail fleet, keeping an allocated number of berths vacant at all times to facilitate this, as well as sufficient hard standing area. However now it has become a potential operations / safety issue we need to respond accordingly.  

Well-known member

IIRC there was an incident earlier this year with the pickup crane having a bit of a contretemps with some infrastructure in the stack area. It's hard to imagine there not being some associated damage to boats. I suspect the reasons for the change have been forced upon them by insurance and a critical risk assessment. Perhaps the area will be filled with merry shepherds huts, sybaritic glamping tents, and the sounds and smells of a mini Glastonbury. What a prospect to anticipate !  

Certainly seems like they are planning a more 'diverse' business going forward  

Our owner had the same letter. We’ve been there for at least 7 years. I don’t buy the safety argument at all. It’s a business decision that they don’t make enough money out of dry Sailing. Mostly, I think, because they have done away with the pens for dry Sailing and only use them for the dry stack mobos. When we first started Sailing from there there was only us and about 3 others. Universal had only just started offering it I think, partly because we’d all just been evicted from Swanwick because of some development that never happened... At first we were always in the pens right at the bottom of the ramp, but in the last few years they’ve been putting us in berths all over the marina. I can see that if they have a waiting list for regular berths then they would rather do that, as it’s a lot less hassle, wish they could just be honest and say it’s a business decision instead of hiding behind H&S though...  

What a tone-deaf letter! "It's really great here, all this cool stuff happening, we can't wait, by the way you're no longer welcome." How hard would it have been to write, "we appreciate all our berth-holders, and we're glad you chose to stay with us, so we're sorry to have to tell you that, due to circumstances beyond our control, we can no longer host you here"?  

• 10 Dec 2017

Agree Strolls, the letter is particularly badly written with no thought given to an appropriate way to break the bad news, It wasn't even sent by post just attached to an email that said Happy Christmas - see attached. It then ended with please move your boat by Jan 2nd. Needless to say my friend is not very happy with the whole fiasco. Somehow most of the regular staff have left Universal in the past few months.  

• 11 Dec 2017

PurpleKate said: Agree Strolls, the letter is particularly badly written with no thought given to an appropriate way to break the bad news, It wasn't even sent by post just attached to an email that said Happy Christmas - see attached. It then ended with please move your boat by Jan 2nd. Needless to say my friend is not very happy with the whole fiasco. Somehow most of the regular staff have left Universal in the past few months. Click to expand...

• 12 Dec 2017

I suspect that there is an element of risk avoidance, or just hassle avoidance, but space might be an issue. Land is so valuable that marinas are tempted to see if they can put housing on their site. Port Hamble used to have loads of free parking and the ramshackle but fun Square Rigger. Then they developed those offices down the south end with flats on top and parking became much more restrictive. Mercury are developing round their site and reducing the car parking area. Shepherd's huts may not be quite in the same league but the pressure is on to "leverage their assets" or whatever the term is.  

• 14 Dec 2017

My friend is trying Hamble Yacht services and Hamble Point who both offer dry stack. Latest I hear is Universal might allow the Sunfast fleet to stay if they can find a solution with the cradles.... or maybe just trying to protect some of the revenue as those guys go for 24lifts/year! As for the regular berth-holders I got a note yesterday saying we are all to be remeasured, The note had a similar tone of consumer indifference. Apparently we've been audited and some naughty naughty berth-holders have been lying about how long there boats are!!!! So we all on the naughty step for now waiting to see how much our fees will go up by.  

savageseadog

Is this apply to J105's only? I know that the J105's had keel structure weaknesses, perhaps it's that?  

Active member

I don't think it is just the J105's, we have recently tried to bring a 43ft yacht on a dry sail package to Universal, and they told us they are not taking in any more Dry Sail customers... I call BS on the H&S excuse, its just another way to increase profit margins. Universal is going down the pan. Been a happy customer for 5 years, and with two key staff leaving over the last year, think we will be off too.  

• 15 Dec 2017

Not just 105s. We've been evicted too. Such a shame as there was starting to be a real buzz about the place.  

• 28 Dec 2017

s.riley1972

I agree, things have changed. This does sound like a nonsense to me, sure it has more to do with the space that needs to be kept aside both on the hard and in the water for dry sailors. Along with the parking required for dry sailors as they have so many crew! Have similar feelings so started this thread: http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...o-Universal-Marina&highlight=universal+marina  

• 14 Mar 2018

Honeymonster

I am a Sun Fast 3200 owner and was a very happy dry sail customer at Universal. It was a lovely place to be with friendly attentive staff (many of who have recently left), and a buzzing social scene evolving. I was offered continuation of a dry sail contract, but the price jump was circa 70% over last year, so I have unfortunately voted with my keel and am moving the Hamble Yacht Services. The saving will pay for a couple of new sails ever year!!!  

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Ports Of Call: River Hamble

‘no man ever steps in the same river twice’ observed greek philosopher heraclitus, which captures perfectly the essence of the energetic river hamble. mark featherstone and jo moon revisit old haunts but discover new delights on a recent visit to this iconic maritime destination..

T he charming waters of the River Hamble rise near the medieval town of Bishop’s Waltham, gathering pace as the river passes through the numerous marinas and nature reserves scattered along its historic shore, before opening out 12 kilometres later into Southampton Water at Hamble-le-Rice. The river is renowned as a sailing mecca, but this is also a fantastic destination for powerboaters to rest, recharge, generally watch the world go by or experience the teeming wildlife along its wooded shores. With deep water and easy access to the Solent at all states of the tide, the river is the perfect base for exploring the UK’s southern shores, and for those with a curious mindset, there is a wealth of history, innovation and creativity to discover.

Port Hamble Marina aerial view.

The Solent has been synonymous with innovation throughout history, dating as far back as the 15th century when Henry V’s groundbreaking three-masted ship, Grace Dieu, was launched, the wreck of which is marked on the river. During the First World War, Hamble’s airfields took centre stage with the production of the Avro 504 biplane, and then, in the Second World War, the river was home to an experimental aircraft department and was later the training and repair centre for the iconic Spitfire, Lancaster and Wellington aircraft. The energy of these trailblazers lingers today, and many racing campaigns have been launched from here.

MDL Port Hamble Marina

Jo and I spent an enjoyable afternoon recently at Port Hamble watching the Swedish team scrubbing the sleek 52ft hull of their sailing yacht, Ran, in preparation for the 2023 Fastnet Race. It brought back wonderful memories for me of helping to prepare Tracy Edwards’ iconic boat, Maiden, for the Whitbread Round the World Race with an all-female crew. These ‘super-racers’, and others like them, are on the Hamble for a reason, and that’s because the marina facilities here are second to none. Indeed, for servicing and repair work you’ll absolutely want for nothing. But on the occasion of our amble around the Hamble, we started with a visit to MDL’s Port Hamble, located right in the heart of the south coast’s sailing scene. In fact, being one of the very first ever built in the UK, this summer the facility celebrates an impressive 50th year!

Hamble Point, Port Hamble and Mercury

A friendly team awaits the visiting boats at the busy 310-berth Hamble Point Marina. The berth holder facilities are good too, with a Force 4 chandlery providing everything you can think of and some things you can’t! Local restaurant chain Banana Wharf has a varied menu from which to choose breakfast, lunch or dinner, all of which you can eat sitting on their balcony enjoying the comings and goings of the many craft afloat, including the colourful racing dinghies cheekily weaving in and out among their bigger cousins. Call ahead to reserve a berth or book online on the MDL website. Up to 48 feet in length can be accommodated, but beware, this is a busy marina, and particularly so when special events are in full swing. The fuelling berth is easily accessible, and we both enjoyed watching a video on the MDL website showing the charismatic mariner Tom Cunliffe giving his interpretation of how to use it!

MDL Mercury Yacht Harbour

MDL Hamble Point Marina.

MDL serves the west side of the river with two more fabulous marinas close by, namely Mercury Yacht Harbour, located a mere few minutes away upriver from Port Hamble, and Hamble Point Marina, found just a short hop downriver. Originally built by Sir Robin Knox-Johnston, Mercury has 360 berths and enjoys deep water at all states of the tide. There’s a holiday village here too with self-catering accommodation and a campsite, so this could make the perfect stopover if you were trailering your boat down to these parts. You can also launch from the facility’s slipway.

MDL Hamble Point dry stack.

Hamble Point Marina, whose location at the mouth of the River Hamble is hard to beat, has extensive shoreside facilities, a large dry stack system for motor boats for up to 10 metres in length and a huge range of marine brokers. If you require maintenance and repair facilities, this is the marina to visit, and it’s worth noting that there is also a wide, easily accessed slipway with ample car parking and trailer storage. However, you won’t find any fuel here, and apart from the Ketch Rigger bar and restaurant, there is nowhere else to eat or to provision your boat. That said, the great advantage of Port Hamble Marina is the fact that the picturesque village of Hamble, with its many pubs, upmarket restaurants and grocery store, is literally just a few minutes’ walk away.

Marina office – Port Hamble Marina.

Hamble Yacht Services

Adjacent to Port Hamble Marina, is Hamble Yacht Services who provide marina berthing offering fast access to the Solent at all states of the tide. Permanent berths are available, while visitors will also be given a warm welcome. Storage ashore is also available as hard standing or dry stacking, with unlimited launches with only one hours notice required, great for those impromptu dashes to enjoy a few hours at sea. The dry stack is open 7 days a week (seasonal) and is suitable for craft up to 9m. There are good facilities on shore providing 24/7 security, modern showers, on-site parking and cafe.

Fuel berth Port Hamble, open every day!

Hamble-le-Rice  

So nice, they named it twice! The village was officially renamed ‘Hamble-le-Rice’ in 1992, but it is still known as ‘Hamble’, which is old English for ‘crooked’ – presumably more a reference to the topography of the river than the residents! Whether it got the last part of its name from the rise of land above the river or because of the rushes that abound in the surrounding area no one knows, but it truly is the quintessential English village. The period cottages tumbling down the hill are typical of the local Hampshire architecture, being built of the warm red brick made just 5 miles away at Burlesdon Brickworks, now a volunteer-run museum and well worth a visit. Hamble’s cobbled high street meanders from the square, which boasts a very handy Co-op store, to finish at the village’s charming quay and slipway built by American servicemen in the run-up to D-Day. On the way down the hill, we stopped for a very refreshing half a cider at the King & Queen pub before catching the pretty pink foot ferry to Warsash. There has been a ferry service from here since the 13th century. You’ll find its operating times are seasonal and displayed on the boards at the boarding points.

The Swedish team preparing their 52ft yacht for the 2023 Fastnet Race

Beautiful brick cottages and The King & Queen pub, Hamble-le-Rice.

The east side of the river seems to offer a more laid-back lifestyle where people can slow down and enjoy the simple pleasures of picnicking on the shore or taking leisurely walks. There was a friendly and convivial atmosphere in Warsash as we walked along the front, watching a jet ski being loaded onto its trailer on the wide slipway after a day of fun on the river. Boys were fishing off the pontoons and a couple of families motored alongside and headed up the gangway to the Rising Sun pub, while a group of friends sat in deckchairs on the foreshore chatting in the evening sun. The village flourished in the 19th century, with shipbuilding, fishing and farming being its mainstays. Crab was collected by boat from the West Country, and lobsters from Ireland were flown in as late as the 60s, to be deposited in the nearby fish ponds before being taken by horse and cart, along with fresh local strawberries, to Swanwick railway station. This heritage is commemorated with a fabulous lobster mural painted on the side of the iconic black and white harbour master’s building. This colossal crustacean measures 7 metres long and is part of a series of six murals that the London-based street artist ATM has created, in partnership with the Hampshire and Isle of Wight Wildlife Trust, to shine a spotlight on the local marine wildlife. The River Hamble has a wealth of habitats, from the inter-tidal mudflats at Hook-with-Warsash to the salt marshes in Upper Hamble and plenty of shoreline in between. We took the footpath upstream from Warsash to Universal Marina, which took around an hour. It was easy going underfoot and we passed through the delightfully named Bunny Meadows on an embankment separating the marshes from the main estuary.

Looking forward to a fish supper at the Rising Sun in Warsash.

Step through the Tardis doors to the Jolly Sailor`s sunlit terrace.

Universal and Swanwick

We soon found ourselves at Premier Marinas – Universal latest addition to their portfolio – a facility boasting a full-service boatyard and one of the largest dry-stack facilities on the river. High-quality facilities including a fuel berth are just what you might expect from a Premier marina, and everything’s beautifully managed by a friendly team. Coffee on the veranda of the on-site café, Mermaids, was a very welcoming experience, and from here we watched the peaceful marina comings and goings. All manner of marine services are available here, and if you are lucky enough to find yourself here at sunset, you can’t beat a crew supper atop Banana Wharf’s newly opened and very atmospheric decking, just as the sun finally kisses the horizon and the river is ablaze with calming colours.

Banana Wharf at Premier Marinas – Universal has a fantastic atmosphere.

Premier Marinas – Universal dry-stack facility.

Dry stacking & marina at Premier Marinas – Swanwick

Carrying along the path to Swanwick, another Premier marina further upriver, we were accompanied by a myriad of gulls. We enjoyed spotting the different species as they waded along the shore dabbling in the mud for lunch. Swanwick Marina is a perfect base for exploring the upper reaches of the Hamble. Kayaks and SUPs can be hired here, and the slipway is accessible at all tides, though car and trailer parking is on site and limited. The berth holder facilities here are well appointed, and the very lively Boat House Café has a wide choice of meals served all day from the riverside decking. Just to the north-east lies the famed Elephant Boatyard, named after Nelson’s flagship, HMS Elephant, which was built here in 1786. The surrounding woodland has contributed much to the yard’s boatbuilding past over the centuries too. If it’s history that floats your boat, we recommend a visit to the most iconic of Hamble’s pubs, the Jolly Sailor, which also has visitor tender moorings on a high tide and was even built before HMS Elephant! A charming brick facade hides a cheeky personality with something interesting to look at wherever you sit, and although the real star of the show is, of course, the river, here at the Jolly Sailor you’ll find plentiful waterside seating to take full advantage of the vista.

Premier Marinas – Swanwick during the annual British Motoryacht Show

Hamble Common WW II gun emplacement built to protect Southampton and the oil terminals

This is a great marina for exploring the northern shores of the river and has a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, with the quirky Seahorse Bistro keeping crews well served with toasties and gorgeous cakes. One of 11 boatfolk marinas on the south coast, this facility welcomes visiting craft of up to 13.5 metres LOA. Book on the website or call ahead and the team here will organise maintenance if needed – and in addition, a great little chandlery is provided on site too. A short walk under the bridge from Deacons is the Chandlery Barge. We thoroughly recommend this if you like a rummage! Based on a World War Two vintage concrete barge, there are treasures to be found here, both new and old, with helpful and knowledgeable staff on hand to assist.

boatfolk – Deacons Marina.

Looking forward to a fish supper at the Rising Sun in Warsash

Upper Hamble

The upper reaches of this historic river are fringed with ancient woodland interspersed with mudflats and salt marshes where sea lavender grows in purple profusion. The river at this point is very shallow and is best visited from about an hour before first high water until three hours after. You’ll need to navigate beneath the A27 bridge, which has limited air draught, so it’s perfect for tenders and small RIBs, kayaks and SUPs. The river is navigable, though, as far as Botley, which was once described as ‘the most delightful village in the world’ by resident William Cobbett, the 19th-century champion of traditional rural England. It is indeed charming and well worth a ramble along the high street and on around the main square, where there are plenty of opportunities to stop for refreshment. The River Hamble Country Park on the north shore is a great family place to visit with its new visitor centre, where one can learn more about the local wildlife, walking trails and BBQ areas. From their pontoon, you will spot the yellow nautical marker where the wreck of King Henry V’s ship, Grace Dieu, lies, and a short walk through the woodland will lead you to the remnants of HMS Cricket, which was built to provide accommodation and training for crews involved in the 1944 D-Day landings.

Busy weekends at Warsash on the wide slipway

Eastlands Boatyard is also located on the upper reaches of the River Hamble. Offering 70 berths together with up to 40 dry-storage spaces and hardstanding for up to 200 boats, the yard also has use of a private slipway. There are toilets and showers, ample car parking, and its location enjoys stunning Hamble views from the yard’s picnic and barbecue area. If you require special launch and recovery services, a Roodberg state-of-the-art boat mover is on hand for craft up to 14 metres in length.

Look out for the cheerful yellow Hamble Harbour Patrol boats.

Time for reflection

Watching the Fastnet fleet stream downriver with their joyful orange jibs providing a colourful spectacle, we could feel the excitement and anticipation of their voyage that started on the beautiful River Hamble. A place of rich maritime history and natural wonder, this is not only a dream location for seafaring adventures and family holidays, but also a great place to spend downtime on the waterfront enjoying a seafood platter and glass of Chablis while mulling over one’s next visit to this river of discovery.

Premier Marinas – Universal berthing and pontoons.

Approach by sea

The Hamble offers all-weather shelter, but beware of southerly and south-westerly winds at the river mouth. On the approach from Southampton, look out around Hamble Spit and make sure the Hamble Beacon Cardinal Mark (Number 2) is visible. Depending on the state of the tide, shoaling occurs to the north of the beacon. Once in the river proper, stay to starboard and keep a good all-round watch as the river is invariably busy at all times.

As for tides, the river has a double high water (stand) that lasts for up to two hours, which means strong ebb tides, particularly at spring tides (over 3 knots on the spring ebb).

Deck shoes off, walking shoes on!

The shores of the River Hamble are a walker’s paradise. Bring your binoculars and camera to catch the incredible birdlife along the way. Here are some of the highlights:

The Hamble Peninsula Trail , which includes the Strawberry Trail to Burlesdon, where horse-drawn vehicles once loaded their baskets of strawberries onto the Strawberry Special trains to London.

Netley Abbey, the most complete surviving Cistercian monastery in southern England, founded in 1239 and painted by Constable. It was also the inspiration for Jane Austen’s Northanger Abbey.

Royal Victoria Country Park, with its beautiful park grounds and café, where you can visit the landmark chapel for the Royal Military Hospital.

Burlesdon Brickworks Museum – the UK’s sole-surviving Victorian steam-driven brickworks.

The Solent Way , Warsash to Hill Head. This is a 5-mile section of the 60-mile Solent Way, taking in two nature reserves along the sand cliffs of Hill Head. A must for birdwatchers.

Hamble and the D-Day landings

Nearly 3,000 commandos embarked from the Rising Sun pier in landing craft bound for Gold Beach on D-Day. The men were accompanied by the eerie sound of Lord Lovat’s personal piper, which was relayed through loudspeakers, setting the troops cheering from the decks of their transport. Later, the pipes played the 1st Commando Brigade across the fire-swept beach and as they advanced to the now famous rendezvous at Pegasus Bridge in Bénouville.

Useful Info

River Hamble Harbour Authority: 01489 576387

Water Patrol: 07718 146380

Marinas VHF: Ch 80

Overnight berthing on visitors’ pontoons, midstream and walk ashore.

mdlmarinas.co.uk

Hamble Point Marina:   023 8045 2464

Port Hamble Marina (MDL): 023 8045 2747

Mercury Yacht Harbour:   023 8045 5994

premiermarinas.com

Universal Marina: 01489 574272

Swanwick Marina:   01489 884081

boatfolk.co.uk

Deacons Marina: 023 80402253

eastlandsboatyard.com

Eastlands Marina:   01489 889177

hambleyachtservices.co.uk

02380 201501

We strongly recommend that you get hold of a copy of the River Hamble Handbook & Directory . It’s the boater’s ‘bible’ for the Hamble and has a list of all the marinas and their facilities along with important pilotage information. You can pick up a copy at the Harbour Office in Warsash and at most of the river’s marinas.

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There are two large regions called Altai: the Altai Republic with the administrative center in Gorno-Altaysk and the Altai Krai with its capital Barnaul. The most famous attractions are in the Altai Mountains, but you can also spend some great days in Altai Krai. Here I am telling you where to go in the Altai Krai to have a great time.

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Basargino looks like it was created in some kind of computer simulation game. And there, on a little piece of land you need to arrange cozy wooden comfortable houses, a farm, a church, a cafe and a restaurant with insanely delicious meals, an apiary, lakes with fish, a chicken coop and pastures. You also should have cows, pigs, goats and sheep. And also wolves and yaks to make the visitors even more delighted.

Visit the forge in Belokurikha and forge a horseshoe for good luck 

There is not a feminine equivalent for a blacksmith, therefore I will simply introduce Anna Biletskaya as the blacksmith. Anna, armed with a heavy hammer and an anvil, is able to forge a horseshoe for a horse in 15 minutes and a decorative horseshoe for luck in only 10 minutes. Well the last one is more in demand lately. Anna opened her smithy to visitors a few years ago. This blacksmith in a skirt shows the whole process during her short master classes: first heat a piece of metal over a fire, then take a hammer and beat it well on the anvil, pull it back, then bend it and put it back into the fire. Finally, cool and clean it.

Visit "The Gold of Altai"(Zoloto Altaya) - to bath in Sanduny or to ride a horse

A hot bath filled with herbs such as hypericum, yarrow, camomile and also a rejuvenating bathtub -  these are the Russian answer to the best Asian spa with plumeria flowers. Well, the Altai version looks more brutal, but you will quickly feel the great effect. The herbs are collected and specially prepared here, in "The Gold of Altai" eco-hotel on the shore of the lake. Bathhouses are warmed up in both old Russian traditional ways: the "black" banya (a smoke goes out of bathhouse through cracks in wooden walls) and the "white" banya (a smoke goes out of the bathhouse through a pipe). The professional bath attendants will help guests adjust the right amount of steam and smack them briskly all over their bodies with special bath brooms. The largest horse farm in this district is also located in the hotel area; you should not miss the chance to ride a horse at least around the local territory.

What else to do in Altai:

• Take a walk through the pine forest near Barnaul
• Stop by the village of Srostki, where Vasily Shukshin (the soviet movie director) was born
• Spend a day at the "Biruzovaya Katun" Resort
• Take a walk along Biysk and visit the museum of the Chuysky Tract
• Relax in the "Altay Palace", check-in to the only official gaming zone in Siberia
• Go to Lake Aya

You can see the photo report about Altai Krai and Altai Mountains here .

Also read about Altai: The Princess of Ukok The most beautiful places of the Altai Mountains Looking for a snow leopard A female Blacksmith: The Mother-anvil Karakol Valley: Protected by Spirits Translation: Irina Romanova, Instagram:   @astrabella1

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Altai Republic (Russia) Travel Guide: A Journey through Twisting Mountain Roads

• December 13, 2023

Altai: Land of Shamanic Traditions and Otherworldly Scenery, Complemented by First-Rate Tourist Amenities

Popular ski resorts and rugged nature reserves, where few human feet have trodden — all this is the Altai Republic at once. In 2020, the region was visited by 2 million tourists — twice as many as the year before. But at the same time, untouched nature has been preserved here. We tell you where the most picturesque landscapes and unique archaeological sites are located, when and where you can see the mummy of the Altai princess, and how to reach the remote lakes where the Old Believers hid from persecution.

How often do tourists encounter bears — and who is much more dangerous than these animals? How to plan a trip and what customs and traditions of the Altai people should be remembered so as not to offend anyone? Where to stay and what to bring back from the trip? And what to pay attention to when traveling on one of the most beautiful highways in the world — the Chui Tract — and beyond its borders.

In Russia, there is the Altai Krai and the Altai Republic — these are two different regions. The Krai is located to the north, and its landscapes are mostly fields and steppes. The Republic is to the south — it is mountains and taiga, sometimes also called the Mountain Altai.

Table of Contents

Gorno-Altaysk is the capital of the republic and its only city

All the main attractions of Gorno-Altaysk can be explored in a day. The city won’t astonish you with beautiful architecture, but it’s cozy: there are many pleasant parks and squares. Founded in 1830, Gorno-Altaysk grew from a small settlement of the indigenous Teleut people. However, the first humans lived here over a million years ago: the site of the city was one of the oldest settlements of primitive man in Eastern Asia — the Ulalinka Site.

All the most interesting antiquities are gathered in the National Museum . It is a must-visit to better understand not only Altaian traditions but also East Asian culture as a whole. Altai is the ancestral home of the Scythians and Turkic peoples (Altaians, Turks, Kazakhs, and many others). In 552 AD, the ancient Turks created a state — the khanate, and here the Turkic script originated, with the Altai Mountains being a part of the Great Silk Road.

In 2012, the museum underwent a major reconstruction and is now modern and accessible — equipped with ramps and an elevator. The collection includes archaeological finds from frozen burial mounds, deer stones , statues, runic inscriptions from the Turkic period, and shamanic attributes — in a couple of hours, you can visualize all the main stages of the ancient history of the Altai Mountains.

Visitors often come to the museum specifically to see the mummy of the Ukok Princess — for whom a separate hall was built. In 1993, on the Ukok Plateau in the Ak-Alakha River valley, archaeologists excavated a burial site dating back to the 5th–3rd centuries BCE. In the tomb, a Scythian woman lay in a sleeping position with six horses. The perpetual permafrost preserved her numerous tattoos and clothing: a silk blouse, a woolen skirt, felt stockings, and a fur coat. Her head was adorned with a complex hairstyle nearly a meter high — made of hair, wool, felt, fabric, leather, and carved ornaments. Scientists took the mummy to the Novosibirsk Institute of Archaeology and Ethnography. Later, it was established that the woman died at 25 from breast cancer.

Ten years later, a devastating ten-point earthquake occurred in the Kosh-Agach region, the consequences of which are still seen as fractures and cracks in the ground. Religious people took this as a sign: the Ukok Princess was angered and wanted to return home. Some believed it was enough to bring her back to Altai, while others insisted that her body should be reburied. Eventually, in 2012, the mummy was brought to the Gorno-Altaysk National Museum.

But the disputes did not end there. In 2014, a severe flood hit the Altai Mountains, destroying hundreds of homes. Two months later, a major hailstorm with hailstones the size of chicken eggs shattered windows and slate roofs, destroyed gardens, left dents in cars, and felled trees. A couple of weeks later, the Council of Elders of the Altai Republic decided to bury the princess, and their decision was approved by the head of the region. In 2015, representatives of the Turkic Spiritual Center filed a lawsuit in the city court for the return of the princess to the Ukok Plateau, but were denied. The court justified this by stating that burial would lead to the loss of a scientific and cultural object.

As a compromise, the museum management devised a schedule for displaying the Ukok Princess. You can only see her during the waxing moon, not any day as before. In traditional Altaian culture, this is the best time for public and family events, religious and ritual ceremonies, and important beginnings. The museum’s website publishes a schedule with possible visiting dates. An adult ticket costs 250 rubles (2.41 euros), a family ticket (two adults and no more than three children from seven to 16 years old) — 450 rubles (4.33 euros).

The permanent exhibition of the museum features paintings by the main Altai artist Grigory Choros-Gurkin, a student of Ivan Shishkin. In Altai, Grigory Ivanovich is loved not only for his talented epic landscapes but also for his active public work. In 1937, the artist was falsely accused and executed in the NKVD prisons. Today, a street where the museum is located is named after the painter, and the name could have been given to the airport. In 2018, the Public Chamber proposed to name 47 Russian airports after distinguished compatriots, and online voting was conducted nationwide. Most residents of the Altai Republic chose Choros-Gurkin, but followers of Nikolai Roerich from other regions also joined the voting — the traveler visited Altai in 1926 during his Asian expedition and was also included in the list. Eventually, Roerich won by a small margin, which upset the locals so much that they decided not to name the airport after anyone.

The play ‘The Ascent to Khan Altai’ by Andrey Borisov, about the life of Gurkin, is usually one of the most popular productions in the drama theater. From the theater, you can walk to the city park and the ‘Blue Altai’ cinema. There are no particular entertainments here, but it’s a nice place for a walk: the building stands near a small lake, and almost from there starts the promenade of the Maima River. Along the bank, there’s a boulevard with gazebos and a bridge leading to the foot of Komsomolka.

Opposite is Mount Tugaya, which is great for hiking. To reach the observation deck, one must climb 750 stone steps. From this point, the entire Gorno-Altaysk is visible. Next to the mountain, there’s a stadium and a spring, adorned with marble statues of fairy tale heroes — Yrystu and Alyonushka. Sometimes there’s even a queue for the water.

Just a couple of minutes’ walk from the spring is the ‘Enchi’ ethnogallery in the printing house building. On the second floor, paintings by local artists, felt, cedar, stone, and clay souvenirs, musical instruments are sold, and you can try on national clothing. On the first floor, there’s the ‘ Typografia’ restaurant (35 Kommunisticheskiy Avenue), serving Altai cuisine: meat snacks, which are various types of boiled meat with onions; ostrich fern, which tastes like mushrooms when cooked; grayling, the most common fish in the Altai Mountains. Altaians, being former nomads, predominantly prepare dishes from meat and milk. The average bill is 500 rubles (4.82 euros), and local dishes should be ordered in advance, as 90% of the menu is European cuisine. In the ‘City’ cafe-bar (26/1 Chaptynova Street), you can try burgers with maral meat — Altai deer (450 rubles (4.33 euros)) and lamb dishes (about 500 rubles (4.82 euros)). There are a few other local dishes typically eaten in Altai. Chegen is a sour milk drink similar to kefir or ayran; boorsoki are small doughnuts fried in deep oil; Altai flatbread made from dough; talkan — ground barley grains added to tea or water with salt and butter; chokchok — a dessert made of talkan and honey; kurut — dry cheese.

The Chui Tract – one of the most beautiful roads in Russia

The road to many attractions passes along the Chui Tract. Meandering rivers along the tract, mountain gorges, green valleys, and steppes will alternate with each other. All the main natural monuments seem to be strung along this road.

In the Russian Empire, a ‘tract’ was a term used for an improved dirt road or, in general, a major well-traveled route connecting important settlements. But today in Siberia and the Urals, some roads continue to be called ‘tracts,’ mainly historical ones.

The site of the modern Chui Tract was once the Mungal Tract, references to which can be found in Chinese chronicles dating back a millennium. By the mid-18th century, it was a trade route with Mongolia, consisting of a narrow pack trail winding among passes and ridges. In 1914, the road began to be widened and improved for vehicle travel.

The Chui Tract is a federal road, and its condition is noticeably better than that of regional routes. For example, the Teletskoye Tract is also very beautiful, but its surface is significantly worse. The road from Aktash to Ulagan to Balyktyul is a dirt road that occasionally turns into asphalt.

Manzherok — a bike park in summer, a ski resort in winter, and a cable car operating year-round

The village has many comfortable tourist bases, hotels, and campgrounds — and therefore, it’s always full of tourists. In summer, people come here to ascend to the observation deck on Mount Malaya Sinyukha (1020 meters) via the gondola cable car. On weekdays, an adult ticket costs 500 rubles (4.82 euros), on weekends and holidays — 600 rubles (5.78 euros), and guests staying at hotels on the resort territory receive one trip as a gift. From the top, there are views of the Katun River and Manzherok Lake — it’s warm enough, and people even swim in it in summer. The rarefied air tints the mountains in a bluish shade, which is why Sinyukha got its name.

At the top, there’s a café with a standard selection of sandwiches, pastries, drinks, and souvenirs. You can also paraglide with an instructor — 10–15 minutes in the air cost 5000 rubles (48.16 euros), including photos and videos of the flight.

Bike rental ranges from 300 to 5000 rubles (2.89 – 48.16 euros) per hour, depending on the specifications. ‘Manzherok Bike Park’ is the first professional bike park beyond the Urals with four tracks of varying difficulty. The ‘Green’ track is for beginner riders, with a length of 1850 meters, starting from the middle station of the cable car. The ‘Blue’ track has a low level of difficulty, a wide and smooth 1700-meter-long route, also starting from the middle station, featuring jumps and simple turns. The ‘Red’ track, with a medium level of difficulty, includes two routes of 700 meters each and one of 3000 meters, with steep descents and sheer sections. And the most challenging one is the ‘Black’ track.

The park also has a 4.5-kilometer walking trail, a wooden extreme park, and a dirt pump track.

On the mountain, there’s a shaman’s hut, where from time to time one can meet a shaman (usually during the waxing moon). This is specially designed for tourists and is more of an educational and entertainment format. Normally, folk healers are not very public people, they live the same life as everyone else, and in a crowd, they are indistinguishable from ordinary passersby. Locals find them through recommendations from acquaintances. Agencies often offer various tours under the name ‘Trip to a Shaman’. But whether there will be a real shaman at this meeting is unknown.

In winter, six ski runs of varying difficulty levels open on Malaya Sinyukha. There is a separate slope for beginners, and instructors are available to teach — a one-time lesson costs from 1800 rubles (17.34 euros) per hour. For children with special needs — cerebral palsy, Down syndrome, hearing and vision impairments — specially qualified instructors conduct the lessons. They teach rollerblading in summer and skiing in winter — from 1200 rubles (11.56 euros) per hour.

Chemal — an abandoned hydroelectric station, rafting, and views from Mount Camel

It is believed that Chemal is the warmest village in all of Siberia. It has a mild climate, and there are many sunny days throughout the year — averaging 20 per month in summer. The area is known for its gardens, such as the popular ‘Peony Garden’ ecopark . The park features a guest house, a restaurant with tasty pizza (average check 700–800 rubles (6.74 – 7.71 euros)), and a nursery for ornamental plants.

Patmos and Chemal Hydroelectric Station. Altai has its own Patmos. But here, it is a very small islet — a rock with sheer walls in the middle of the Katun River, accessible by a suspension bridge. It was named after a monastery built in the 19th century. During the Soviet era, the hermitage was destroyed. In 2001, a church of John the Theologian was built on its site.

From the bridge towards the hydroelectric station runs a one-and-a-half-kilometer goat trail, in places with wooden or stone steps and railings, and in others, it’s made of clay soil. It’s better to walk here in clear weather — it’s not very safe in the rain. The trail leads to the Chemal Hydroelectric Station by a challenging but short route. This is not the only way — you can bypass the forest and Mount Beshpek via Sadovaya Street. The hydroelectric station was built in the 1930s, but today it is not operational. Various extreme attractions, rafting, and souvenir shops are located on its territory.

The most interesting souvenirs are sold in Askat — a village of artisans in the Chemal district. A clearing with workshops is located at the entrance, where you can also watch the local craftsmen at work. In the village itself, there is a linen shop and the Golovan’ master’s estate. About a kilometer upstream of Askatka is the Silver Spring — the stream’s waters are rich in silver.

Camel. A mountain with a height of 927 meters on the southeastern outskirts of Chemal, near the hydroelectric station. A well-trodden trail leads to the top, which is clearly visible even from afar. No special preparation is needed to get there, and the views of the surroundings are magnificent.

Rafting. The Katun River in the Chemal and Manzherok areas is suitable for beginner rafting. Many popular and uncomplicated routes start on the shore near Patmos or the Turquoise Katun. A three-hour rafting trip with all equipment will cost about 800 rubles (7.71 euros). Rafting on the Chemal River is a bit more challenging and costs around 1500 rubles (14.45 euros).

Karakol Lakes. From the village of Elekmonar (eight kilometers from Chemal), you can go trekking to the Karakol Lakes. Suitable for those who don’t travel further along the Chui Tract but want to see mountain landscapes. The main advantage is accessibility — almost to the lakes, ZIL trucks go, and the last part of the route can be walked or reached by a more passable GAZ-66 vehicle or on horseback. Commercial tours usually take a whole day. If you want to stay in a tent or spend a day or two at a recreational base, you can organize the trip independently, paying separately for transportation to and from each side, or walk the entire way.

In the Karakol Valley, there are many sacred places for the Altai people: the Bashadar burial grounds with sacrificial layouts, the Nizhnee Sooru site, where, according to legends, evil spirits dwell. On the left bank of the Karakol River, on the Bichiktu-Bom mountain, you can see petroglyphs from different eras. Another sacred place is Lake Arygem with its pure spring water and the Arzhun-Suu mineral spring.

On the way to Aktash — passes, ancient petroglyphs, and high-altitude lakes

Aktash is a village from which it is convenient to reach attractions towards Ulagan and Kosh-Agach. Along the way, there are many picturesque landscapes: you will have to overcome two passes — Seminsky and Chike-Taman and you can see the confluence of the Chuya and Katun rivers.

Seminsky Pass (1717 meters). Located at the 583rd kilometer of the Chui Tract. The ascent from the northern side stretches for nine kilometers, the descent to the southern side — 11 kilometers. Over this short distance, several vegetation zones will change: steppe-forest, forest, and high-mountain. There is an observation deck at the top where you can eat and buy souvenirs.

Tavdinsky Caves. A complex of 30 caves represents a kind of prototype of a multi-apartment building. People lived in these caves for several centuries: during excavations, artifacts from the early Iron and Bronze Ages were found.

The Barangol Necropolis consists of kurgans of the Pazyryk culture, which are scattered on both sides of the Chui Tract. Between the villages of Barangol and Ust-Sema, there is a six-meter Kamyshlinsky Waterfall with two drops.

Chike-Taman Pass (1460 meters). The road to the pass winds up endless twists of serpentine, and at the top, there is an observation deck with a view of these steep turns. On the platform, there are also several cafes and souvenir kiosks.

After the Chike-Taman Pass, there are many natural monuments: rock images, caves, kurgans. After the village of Inya, perhaps the most interesting of them is the Kalbak-Tash site . It is the largest complex of petroglyphs in Altai and practically on the side of the Chui Tract — it doesn’t require a long and tiring walk to reach. The oldest images are about eight thousand years old. Scientists have deciphered only about three thousand of them, and that’s far from all. If you look on your own, most of the drawings can simply be misunderstood. Therefore, it is best to go on a guided tour.

Yalomanskaya Fortress (settlement) — an ancient structure at the mouth of the Bolshoy Yaloman River. A little further — Ayr Tash Stone Gates — a place where the Chui Tract is squeezed between two sheer cliffs. Ininsky Bridge — the first and only two-chain suspension bridge built in the Soviet Union.

Chuy-Oozy — the confluence of the Chuya and Katun rivers, a sacred place for the Altai people. It is a cliff from which one can see how one river flows into another: the waters of the Chuya are muddy, those of the Katun — clear. Nearby is the eponymous nature park — a large ancient sanctuary with a huge number of rock drawings and kurgans. For example, the deer stone Adyr-Kaya, presumably erected two to three thousand years ago. It is a plate of greenish slate with a cut top. It was from this stone that the study of the deer stones of the Altai Mountains began.

Shirlak Waterfall (Maiden’s Tears). Another attraction that is easy to reach. It is clearly visible even from the road when traveling along the Chui Tract towards Chibit and Aktash.

Chibit Village. From here start the routes to the Shavlinsky Lakes, which formed due to the melting of the North-Katun Glaciers. The Lower Shavlinsky Lake is the most accessible for unprepared tourists, to which one can get from Chibit on horseback. The road is quite long — 35 kilometers, but there are many stops along the way. More prepared hikers can continue the route to other Shavlinsky Lakes and passes of the North-Chuya Ridge. Through the passes, you can reach the Maashey Glacier, go to the Karakabak Lakes or the Abyl-Oyuk and Kamry Lakes, and reach the watershed of the Kurundu and Yungur rivers. All these are challenging routes for experienced hikers.

In addition, Chibit often hosts various water racing competitions: here flows a very difficult section of the Chuya. Nearby are two waterfalls: Big Ular and Upper Karasu (Little Ular).

Aktash — an excellent base for exploring the surroundings

In Aktash, tourists are offered jeep tours around the area. A trip in an off-road vehicle along selected routes will cost about 2500 rubles (24.08 euros) per person. However, some attractions can also be reached with your own car.

Relay Station. An operating radio tower on Mount Verkhnya. From a height of 3000 meters, fantastic views of the North-Chuya Range and the Kurai Steppe open up. It’s better to go there in clear weather, otherwise, you won’t be able to see all this beauty due to the clouds.

‘Mars-1’ and ‘Mars-2’. A place that gained fame a couple of years ago when a blogger traveling in Altai dubbed these mountains ‘Martian’ on their Instagram. They are located approximately nine kilometers southwest of the village of Chagan-Uzun, and their red color comes from compounds of iron and manganese. You can drive to ‘Mars-1’, but ‘Mars-2’ requires a walk.

According to locals, they knew about the red mountains before — but didn’t consider them anything special. It’s also preferable to visit the ‘Mars’ in clear weather — the mountains acquire a Martian color only when the sun is shining. On a cloudy day, it all looks less picturesque.

The Geyser Lake is located six kilometers from Aktash. A wooden bridge leads to the lake, and on the way, you have to pass through the territory of a tourist base and pay 100 rubles. Of course, there are no geysers at the bottom of the lake, but springs. There are also three layers of clay: blue-black-blue, and the springs constantly create new patterns on the surface from these layers.

Red Gates. Rocks between which a narrow road winds, if you go towards Ulagan. The composition of these rocks includes cinnabar — a mercury mineral.

Uchar Waterfall. The largest waterfall in the Altai Republic, located within the Altai Nature Reserve.

Ulagan. A major district center with supermarkets. This is where civilization ends. Attractions along the way include the Stone Mushrooms in the Akkurum area, the Katu-Yaryk pass, and the Chulyshman river valley — also very popular places.

Kosh-Agach District — trekking to the glacier, lakes, and megaliths

Kosh-Agach is the coldest point in the Altai Republic during winter. The village is situated in an intermountain basin, hence it has a sharply continental climate. At the same time, according to meteorologists, the Kosh-Agach region is one of the sunniest in Russia. Since 2014, the country’s largest solar power station has been operating here.

Akturu Valley. To get to the ‘Akturu’ alpine camp, first, from the village of Kurai, one must reach Perevalka — an intermediate camp. From there, you need to travel either by a special vehicle or on foot. In ‘Akturu’, you can stay in a cabin, cottage, or tent. The area has baths, a cafe, and showers. The camp’s programs with excursions, accommodation, transportation from and back to Kurai cost 24,000–32,000 rubles (231.16 – 308.22 euros) per person for five days.

The easiest route to the Waterfall Stream and the Small Aktru Glacier takes two to three hours. It does not require any special preparation and is suitable for families with children. A guided tour for a group of five people costs 3000 rubles (28.90 euros). The Big Aktru Glacier (eight kilometers long) and Blue Lake are located 12 kilometers from the camp.

On a separate day, you can ascend to the Teacher’s Pass . The name is associated with the sports society of the same name, which opened a training camp here for teachers in the late 1930s. This pass leads from the Aktru valley to the valley between the peaks of Kyzyl-Tash and Jubilee. From the pass, one of the peaks of the North-Chuya Range , the Dome of the Three Lakes , is visible. It offers a beautiful view of Mount Belukha.

Throughout the Chuya Steppe (the upper course of the Chuya River), there is a huge number of archaeological monuments. For example, in the Elangash river valley, there is a complex of rock paintings stretching 18 kilometers in total. 20 kilometers southwest of the village of Kosh-Agach is the Altai version of Britain’s Stonehenge. An ancient megalithic complex of giant stone slabs over four meters high, arranged in a circle.

Teletskoye Lake — the second largest after Baikal

The village of Artybash is located on the shore of the second-largest freshwater lake in Russia. In Altai, Teletskoye Lake is called ‘Altyn-Köl’ — ‘Golden Lake’. Today, its surroundings are a protected nature reserve.

In summer, a ferry operates on Teletskoye Lake: from Yelangash (Artybash) to Cape Kyrsey (the southern shore of Teletskoye). You can admire the beauty of the lake and all the attractions along the way to Aktash. It also operates in the opposite direction. The ferry crossing for a passenger car costs 10,000–12,000 rubles (96.32 – 115.58 euros), motorcycle — 4,000–6,000 rubles (38.53 – 57.79 euros), pedestrian tourist 1,000–1,500 rubles (9.63 – 14.45 euros).

The most popular waterfall of Teletskoye, Korbu , can only be reached by water. It is 12.5 meters high. Near the bridge connecting Artybash and Yelangash, there are pleasure boats. For 1500 rubles (14.45 euros) per person, they offer tours to view the waterfalls, lasting a couple of hours. If desired, you can also go on the ‘Pioneer of Altai’ ship — but it takes five and a half hours and is more expensive — 1800 rubles (17.34 euros).

Near Korbu is another waterfall, Kishte . It is considered to be the loudest waterfall, although Korbu is taller. You cannot walk near it — it is surrounded by rocks and water, but the boats approach it closely. Opposite is the 80-meter Ayu-Kechpes, and on the western shore is Chedor, near which you can also disembark and walk, as near Korbu.

In Artybash, there are small private museums, such as ‘Ethnopark on Teletskoye’ . It consists of three yurt-museums, one of which recreates the exhibition of a traditional Altai dwelling: with a hearth in the center, and division into male and female sides. The exhibits — various household items — were shared by the indigenous residents of Altai villages over two years before the opening. The museum owner, Synaru Anatpaeva, treats visitors to herbal teas and chegen — one of the most beloved and popular national drinks in the Altai Mountains, made from fermented boiled milk. During such tea sessions, she talks about the traditions and customs of the Altai people, recalls legends about the attractions. Tourists ask about things they find interesting, such as wedding rituals, shamanism, or the history of the people.

In summer, on weekends, concerts are held in the park, where you can listen to ethnic Altai music. In addition to tours, there are workshops on felting, after which visitors leave with souvenirs made by their own hands. The ticket to the ethnographic park costs 400 rubles (3.85 euros), and the museum is closed in winter.

Uimon Valley and Mount Belukha

In the 18th century, Old Believers fled to the Uimon Valley to escape persecution. Later, local legends even suggested that the free country of Belovodye was located in these areas. Indeed, they are suitable places to hide: even today, the road to the villages of Uimon is very difficult and in places dangerous. Gromotukha Pass is a boundary with steep turns and a mound instead of asphalt. After it begins the valley. Mainly, people come here to see the Multinsky Lakes and conquer the highest point of Siberia — Belukha (4506 meters).

Multinsky Lakes. This is a cascade of lakes on the northern slope of the Katun Ridge, formed by a melting glacier in the upper reaches of the Multa River. 30 kilometers from the lakes is the eponymous village. There are several ways to get here: on foot or by truck GAZ-66 (popularly known as ‘shishiga’) or UAZ through off-road — muddy tracks, serpentine, and turbulent rivers. The trip from Multa to the lakes costs 1800–2000 rubles (17.34 – 19.26 euros), from Ust-Koksa — 2000–2500 rubles (19.26 – 24.08 euros).

In Ust-Koksa , there is the largest selection of accommodations, so tourists usually stay here. It is a district center with a population of about 4000 people. The village has a small airport and a bus station. Due to good transport accessibility, it is convenient to plan different routes from here. Tourist bases typically have their own off-road vehicles for taking guests to local attractions, or they collaborate with local drivers.

Another option is to stay closer to the lakes, in Verkh-Uimon, Multa, Maralnik, or Zamulta. These are small villages with populations of 600-700 people, so there are fewer hotels and tourist bases, but many locals rent out houses (from 1500 (14.45 euros) per day). There is not much difference in price. In Ust-Koksa, accommodations are more comfortable and there is a wider choice, but in nearby villages, this is compensated by much more beautiful landscapes — for example, the Gromotukha River and the pass of the same name.

Tourists usually visit three to five of the largest lakes, but there are a total of 42. The Multa River flows through the Upper, Middle, and Lower Multinsky Lakes, and they seem to flow into each other. Transportation usually only goes as far as the Lower Lake — beyond that, vehicles cannot pass. To reach the other lakes, you must cross the river or go around on foot.

Near the Lower Lake, it’s convenient to stay with a tent, where there are a couple of dozen camping spots, several small cabins (400 rubles (3.85 euros) per person, with outdoor washbasins and a fire pit) and a bathhouse (1000 rubles (9.63 euros) per hour), and electricity is provided by generators for a couple of hours a day. In the nearby ‘Multinsky Lakes’ mountain camp, rooms with a bathroom and a warm shower cost from 1200 rubles (11.56 euros) per day, and staying in your own tent on the territory costs 100 rubles (0.96 euros) per day.

To cross to the opposite shore of the Lower Lake, tourists use a motorboat to further access the other lakes. If there are four or more people, the cost is 350 rubles (3.37 euros) per person one way; for one to three people, it’s 1000 rubles (9.63 euros) per boat. It’s also possible to walk around the lake along the shore, about two kilometers.

The shore of the Lower Lake, which serves as the start of the route, is rocky, while the opposite shore is sandy, giving the water a turquoise hue even on cloudy days. The Shumy, the threshold where one lake flows into another, can only be crossed on foot to the Middle Lake. The Upper Lake is another five kilometers away, and a little further is the Katun Biosphere Reserve. Passes must be obtained from the game wardens (150 rubles (1.44 euros)), and a passport is required. A trail through the reserve leads to Lake Kuyguk.

Belukha is 1000 meters lower than Elbrus — the highest peak in Europe, but climbing it is considered more challenging. The mountain changes significantly each year, and the weather around the summit is very variable, with rocks falling due to glacier movements and frequent avalanches. Conquering it without mountaineering experience is not possible.

Therefore, travelers mostly go trekking to the foot of Belukha, but this also requires good physical preparation. Additionally, one must be mentally prepared for rain and cold nights. The routes can vary slightly, but usually, the entire journey takes 10–14 days. Along with guides, tourists set out from the village of Tyungur and visit Lake Ak-Kem, which reflects Belukha, the Ak-Kem Glacier, the Tekelyu Waterfall, the Valley of Seven Lakes, Kucherlinskoe Lake. Some tours include rafting on the Katun. On average, including transfers, the tour costs 25,000–30,000 rubles (240.79 – 288.95 euros).

Nature Worship. The locals greatly respect and value nature and react painfully when they encounter careless or disrespectful behavior. In June, Altaians were outraged by a video in which a Moscow blogger, for some reason, shot at the Katun River, which the indigenous people have revered since ancient times. The reaction was even sharper when a Novosibirsk company launched a mattress into the Geyser Lake with a very fragile ecosystem for an advertisement shooting.

This indignation is easy to understand, and it’s not just about the fear that the pristine beauty could be destroyed. Many Altaians still worship spirits, visit shamans, and perform traditional rituals. Nature is a cult, an animated sanctuary, and a source of pride. It is also a force with which people are closely connected, as the lifestyle of village residents remotely resembles that of their ancestors: many still engage in agriculture, hunting, and livestock breeding.

Influence of Traditions. Tourists often do not know that the colorful ribbons tied to trees in Altai are not for making wishes. Here, it is part of a religious ritual. But due to unawareness, travelers tie any piece of fabric they find to the branches, sometimes even cutting up their colorful clothing. In reality, tying ribbons is an offering to the spirits, for which people specially prepare.

The ceremonial ribbons are called ‘d’yalama’ and ‘kyira’, and they come in four colors, each symbolizing different phenomena. White symbolizes Altai faith and purity; yellow represents the sun and mountain peaks; green symbolizes plants and taiga; blue represents rivers and lakes. The ritual is performed at the new moon, in the morning or during the day. Ribbons are tied on the eastern side, in pairs — because everything on Earth has a pair. Before this, the new fabric is consecrated — fumigated with juniper. One ribbon is usually placed slightly higher as a sign that good is always stronger than evil.

The Altai people still observe old traditions, which are reflected in their daily life and creativity.

Inscriptions on Rocks. Eight thousand years ago, our ancestors left petroglyphs to pass knowledge to other generations. However, writing one’s name in paint on rocks today is of dubious value. Moreover, local volunteers struggle to restore the mountains to their original state. Since 2019, participants of the ‘Clean Altai’ project have been cleaning rocks of inscriptions along the most popular tourist routes: the passes of the Chui tract and the cliffs along the Katun, on the way to Ulagan. The work is costly and labor-intensive: there are many inscriptions, and volunteers spend hours removing paint with a sandblaster from a small area. On challenging passes like Chike-Taman, volunteers require the escort of road services due to the very steep and narrow turns.

What to Bring Back Home

Tourists usually buy honey and herbal balms based on honey, herbal teas, pantogematogen (a drink made from maral antler blood), local natural cosmetics, chocolate with pine nuts, and various cedar souvenirs. Near the passes and close to the attractions, there are always many souvenir shops. However, everything is significantly more expensive in such places, and the balms are often left in the heat for a long time, contradicting storage conditions. Therefore, it’s better to check out the same items at local markets in district centers or specialized phyto-pharmacies. In Gorno-Altaisk, such a pharmacy is located at Protocnaya Street 16/1.

Traffic Jams. During the summer, many residents from neighboring cities — Biysk, Barnaul, Novosibirsk, Kemerovo, Tomsk — come to the Altai Mountains to spend the weekend. Typically, they choose tourist bases and resorts near the city: Manzherok, Ayu, Biyuzovaya Katun, Chemal — places that can be visited in a day before returning for the start of a new work week. Therefore, starting from Friday evening and throughout the weekend, there is increased traffic on the Chui tract, sometimes leading to traffic jams. Serious collapses are rare, but it’s useful to know this feature to plan travel time — for example, not to miss a flight.

Wild Animals. The most common animals you’ll encounter are harmless rodents like chipmunks or squirrels, not bears. In the forests, be cautious of snakes. The likelihood of encountering a bear during a stop is very low — the brown bear is a cautious creature and usually does not want to encounter humans. In the summer of 2021, bears were spotted several times at Teletskoye Lake — where the Katun Biosphere Reserve is located. Who is more dangerous in such encounters — human to bear or bear to human — is a debatable question. In most cases, bears are scared of humans and run away, especially if the encounter occurs in a populated area .

Tick Season starts in spring and ends in autumn. Park areas and tourist bases are treated for dangerous insects, but if you plan to hike or take long walks in nature, it’s better to get vaccinated against tick-borne encephalitis (the most serious disease transmitted by ticks) before the trip. The procedure usually consists of three stages. The first vaccine is given in the fall to prepare for the spring-summer epidemic, then another one in early winter. The third vaccination is done 9-12 months after the first. After that, the body will develop immunity for about three years.

If you don’t want to bother or if there’s little time before the trip, you can buy tick insurance. It’s sold by most insurance companies and costs about 400 rubles (3.85 euros). This amount can save money if you are bitten by a tick infected with encephalitis or Lyme disease. Without insurance, immunoglobulin injections for a person weighing 60-70 kilograms will cost at least 8000 rubles (77.05 euros).

Where to Stay

Accommodation in the Altai Mountains can be found to suit any taste and budget. If you go during the peak tourist season, it’s better to book accommodations in advance — at least a couple of months ahead. In Altai, the rule is – the closer to district centers, the greater the choice of comfortable accommodations.

Finding a place for a tent is not difficult. Tourists most often stay near the banks of the Katun River, where there are many organized camping sites. However, it’s most comfortable to camp on the territories of tourist bases: they are usually guarded and treated for ticks, and amenities include a bathhouse or shower. The price per person is on average about 150 rubles (1.44 euros) per day. But there won’t be much unity with nature or romantic campfire gatherings here.

The perfect combination of comfort and nature is glamping, but they usually only operate in summer. Glamping sites are often located in beautiful natural areas, and tourists stay in large tents, sleep on soft beds, and the site has showers with hot water and offers meals and organized excursions. Prices vary depending on the level of comfort. For example, a double yurt in “Ethno House Yurt” in the village of Aktash costs 1500 rubles (14.45 euros) per day, with shower and toilet in a separate building. In “Cheposh Park,” the minimum price for a double tent with a shower is about 5000 rubles (48.16 euros).

Here are a few more options: “Saikol” three kilometers from the village of Kurai, Cloud Park Altay in the Chemal district, the tent mini-hotel “Forest and Sea” in the Kosh-Agach district, and “Taigala” near Chibit.

How to Get There. In 2023, traveling from Europe or the UK to Gorno-Altaysk in the Altai Republic involves a series of connecting flights, as there are no direct flights to this destination.

One option is to fly to Istanbul, Turkey, utilizing airlines like Turkish Airlines, which offers extensive connections from various European cities. From Istanbul Airport (IST), you can then take a flight with Pegasus Airlines or Turkish Airlines to Russian cities like Moscow or Novosibirsk.

Another option is to fly to Yerevan, Armenia, with airlines such as Air France, Lufthansa, or British Airways offering flights to Zvartnots International Airport (EVN) in Yerevan. From Yerevan, you can take a connecting flight to Moscow with airlines like Aeroflot or Armenia Aircompany.

Direct flights to Gorno-Altaysk are available from Moscow, Kazan, Novosibirsk, and Krasnoyarsk. With the start of the summer tourist season, Nordwind Airlines offers direct flights from St. Petersburg. A round-trip ticket from Moscow to Gorno-Altaysk costs on average between 6000 to 15,000 rubles (57.79 – 144.48 euros). It’s also possible to fly to Barnaul (700 kilometers from Gorno-Altaysk), Novokuznetsk (800 km), or Novosibirsk (900 km), and then travel to Gorno-Altaysk by land transport. A ticket to Novosibirsk costs 5000–10,000 rubles (48.16 – 96.32 euros), plus an additional 3000 rubles (28.90 euros) for a bus and another seven hours on the road.

The nearest railway station to Gorno-Altaysk is located in Biysk, 100 kilometers away. To reach the capital of Altai, you’ll need to travel by bus or taxi. From Moscow to Biysk, the train journey takes two days, and a one-way ticket costs about 7000 rubles (67.42 euros). There are also trains from Novosibirsk and Barnaul.

These routes may involve overnight layovers, so it’s advisable to plan for potential stays in transit cities.

Getting Around the Republic. During the summer, Let 410 planes from “Siberian Light Aviation” with a capacity of 19 passengers fly to remote district centers from Gorno-Altaysk. There are flights to villages like Kosh-Agach and Ust-Koksa, with one-way tickets starting from 1500 rubles (14.45 euros). The journey takes about an hour. It’s a great opportunity to quickly reach your destination and experience flying in a small plane. Bus number 103 runs from the airport to the bus station in Gorno-Altaysk. A taxi ride would cost about 300 rubles (2.89 euros). Traveling to Kosh-Agach from Gorno-Altaysk by car takes no less than eight hours.

Daily scheduled buses run from Gorno-Altaysk to the most popular tourist destinations. The bus station does not have its own website, but it has an official Instagram account with a link to E-traffic , where you can view the schedule and buy tickets. Main destinations include Manzherok (about 120 rubles (1.16 euros)), Chemal (350 rubles (3.37 euros)), Onguday and Shebalino (400 rubles (3.85 euros)), Turochak and Artybash (500 rubles), Ust-Koksa and Multa (1000 rubles (9.63 euros)), Kosh-Agach and Tyungur (1500 rubles (14.45 euros)). An alternative is to find carpooling options on BlaBlaCar or rent a car. For example, on Booking Car , the minimum price for a car is 1700 rubles (16.37 euros) per day. Car rental services “Za Rulem” (Communist Avenue, 81, bldg. 2) and Arget (Biyskaya Street, 23) offer cars for an average of 2700 rubles (26.01 euros) per day.

When to Visit

In Altai, the climate is sharply continental: winter doesn’t hold back on frosts, and summer on heat. The weather greatly depends on the region, but in Gorno-Altaisk and the nearby villages, the warmest month is July. The average temperature is around plus 19 degrees Celsius, and heat up to plus 36 degrees can last for a couple of weeks. Nonetheless, even if traveling in the middle of summer, you should bring warm clothes. For example, the temperature on mountain passes is five to six degrees lower than on the plains.

Winter. In winter, people primarily come to Altai for picturesque landscapes and ski resorts. In Gorno-Altaisk, you can ski or snowboard on Komsomolka (402 meters) — an easy track suitable for beginners. The neighboring Tugaya mountain is designed for those with more serious sports training. But lovers of active recreation often choose ski resorts outside the city: ‘Manzherok,’ ‘Teletsky,’ or the ‘Semin Pass’ training center. Initially envisioned as a base for training athletes, it is now open to tourists.

Spring. At the end of April to early May in Altai, the red rhododendron blooms — this endangered shrub covers the mountains and rocks with bright pink flowers. Residents of nearby cities often come during the May holidays to see the bloom. There is especially a lot of rhododendron in the Mayminsky, Chemalsky, Ongudaysky districts, and beyond the Chike-Taman pass. Spring is also the best time to see waterfalls as they are full-flowing.

Summer and Autumn. In summer and autumn, there are more options available — from contemplating natural expanses to trekking in the mountains or off-roading in uninhabited areas. By mid-September, one of the main rivers, the Katun, becomes strikingly turquoise — the water changes color several times a year.

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