Le Tri-Marrants

Notre Philosophie

Le Tri-Marrants est un restaurant où l’on cuisine avec 99% fait maison. Ce caractère Artisanal prend sa noblesse dans la technicité des préparations, une Cuisine où l’on se base avant tout sur le respect du produit, des producteurs, des saisons, une cuisine où l’on allie respect du produit et des saveurs. L’équipe du Tri-Marrants est engagée dans un processus de cuisine « Durable & Responsable », circuit court, tri sélectif, compostage, paille jetable, papier CFS…

Nous vous proposons encore un vrai service de salle, préparation du filet Américain sur chariot devant le client (en saison), découpe et flambage en salle. Une très large gamme de produits répondant aux attentes des clients les plus exigeants et aussi pour les Végans, Végétariens et Végétaliens , le tout dans des plats équilibrés, riches en goûts et en textures.

Notre chariot de fromage se veut une vitrine du savoir faire de nos producteurs, en plus des grands classiques de France, d’Italie, d’Espagne, D’Angleterre …

trimaran resto

Notre cuisine en quelques mots

La carte est courte et est principalement composée des différents plats du Menu.

Notre menu est décliné en version Bistronomique, Découverte et Plaisir.

La spécificité du Tri-Marrants est la source de nos produits.

Nous ne travaillons que les meilleurs produits, et ceux-ci rentrent « brut » dans la maison avant transformation (Coquille Saint-Jacques de Dieppe, poissons frais et entier ; turbot, lotte, saint-pierre et autres poissons moins connus … Nos viandes en qualité « Artis » reposée 21 jours (Race Holstein, élevage Belge), Porc Fermier Columbus, Œufs bio et en période de chasse nous ne travaillons que du gibier Belge : selle de biche, chevreuil, canard sauvage  ….)

Une cuisine de savoir-faire & de passion.

Les petits plus du Tri – Marrants

  • Cuisine Bistronomique … Le Charme de la Cuisine de Bistro & l’élégance de la Gastronomie.
  • Cuisine d’envie et d’intuition, le produit est au centre de notre cuisine, l’essentiel est le goût !
  • Cuisine de qualité, respect des produits…découvrez les saveurs de la Cuisine du Terroir, sous un jour nouveau…
  • Les meilleurs produits d’ici et d’ailleurs, le meilleur de nos producteurs locaux.
  • Tableaux de suggestions renouvelés en fonction du marché.
  • Poissons frais uniquement en pêche du jour.
  • Situé au bord du lac de La Plate Taille, vue panoramique sur le lac, la terrasse à été classée parmi les plus belles Terrasses de Belgique.

trimaran resto

Fabian Santi

  • Membre Reconnu du Collège Culinaire de France, Chef Eurotoques, Maître Rôtisseur de Belgique, Ambassadeur de Wallonie,
  • 1 er Chef Belge à rejoindre le Réseau des Chefs Engagés auprès de l’Organisation Ethique Océan.
  • Restaurant de Qualité, reconnu par le Collège Culinaire de France.
  • Fabian Santi est chef de cuisine depuis 1992 et a été distingué à maintes reprises dans les plus grands Guides Culinaires au cours de sa carrière.
  • Il a participé à de nombreuses émissions de télévision et a collaboré à la rédaction de plusieurs livres et ouvrages culinaires.
  • Son passage en tant que Professeur de Cuisine & de Technologie de Cuisine à L’Ecole Hôtelière Provinciale de Namur lui a laissé un sens du partage et de la transmission que l’on retrouve dans ses tutoriels sur sa page Facebook et la page du Restaurant.
  • Chef investi dans la protection de l’environnement, Fabian Santi a développé un vrai concept de cuisine Durable & Responsable , tant dans ses achats que dans la gestion quotidienne du Restaurant.
  • Le maitre mot de sa cuisine, est « Le Produit » avant tout… Une cuisine basée sur le respect du produit et sa mise en avant par une technicité maitrisée.
  • Grand voyageur, il n’hésite pas à mêler ses rencontres de saveurs exotiques aux grands classiques de la Cuisine Française.

Réservation / restaurant : +32 479 / 520 126

Fabian Santi / Direction : +32 475 / 568 196

Rue de Oupia 4/2 6440 Froidchapelle

[email protected]

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Réservation Obligatoire

Cuisine ouverte de 12h 00 à 14h30 & 18h00 à 20h30

Nous demandons une arrivée pour 14h00 MAX et 20h00 MAX Afin de respecter nos collaborateurs le restaurant ferme à 16h30 & 23h30

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Climatisation

Visa, MasterCard, Maestro, Bancontact

Dress code : Restaurant & Terrasse

- Smart Casual / Casual Chic - Pas de tenue de sport ( jogging- casquette, tenue de cycliste ...) - Pas de tenue de plage ( short de bain / paréo...) En cas de randonnée, merci de prévoir une tenue de rechange pour votre repas au restaurant ( pas de chaussures boueuses ...) Les tenues estivales sont acceptées sans problèmes en terrasse ( Bermuda et short de ville H/F)

Le suivi de ces quelques règles élémentaires permet le respect de chacun.

trimaran resto

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Le Trimaran

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D'après les commentaires des clients, la cuisine française est plutôt bonne. Vous pouvez toujours déguster des salades savoureuses à ce bar. Les gourmets disent qu' un parfait est délicieux ici. Beaucoup de visiteurs commandent un vin délicieux. On vous offrira un café immense.

Un personnel digne montre un haut niveau d'hospitalité dans Le Trimaran . Un service énorme est ce que les invités apprécient ici. Ce lieu propose des repas à un prix raisonnable. Un décor familial et une ambiance plaisante permettent aux clients de se détendre. D'après le classement de Google, cet endroit a obtenu un score de 4.1.

Avis d'utilisateurs sur les plats et les services

Evaluations des le trimaran, avis des visiteurs des le trimaran.

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Menu du restaurant

LundiLun Fermé
MardiMar 07:30-23:00
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JeudiJeu 07:30-23:00
VendrediVen 07:30-23:00
SamediSam 09:00-23:00
DimancheDim 09:00-23:00

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Le menu de Le Trimaran proposé par les utilisateurs de Sluurpy

  • Ribs Et Frites Maison
  • Lieu Et Farz
  • Moules frites
  • Café gourmand
  • Moules Marinière-frites
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  • Carpaccio de Saumon Au Gingembre
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  • Soupe de Poisson Maison
  • Encornet Au Chorizo Et Riz
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14' Trimaran Restore and Upgrade - Supernova

Discussion in ' Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building ' started by Hydromann7 , Oct 26, 2015 .

Hydromann7

Hydromann7 Junior Member

Hi Any and all, Scored a small 14' Supernova Trimaran for $300.00 complete. Only missing a few simple fixtures, also needs a few minor hull repairs and and a respray. I figured for $300 I can afford to spend another $1k on doing it up to have an awesome little tri. So, here's the plan. I'll be doing the rebuilt and upgrades in stages and would value some feedback and recommendations along the way. 1. Get the thing on the water and see what it does. To get to this stage I need to: a) Rebuild the rudder, marine ply construction but old and sub bleached with layers de-laminating. Have sanded back and re-glued with epoxy as well as single coated on back 2/3 of blade. Have some left over carbon cloth from a work job and am going to cover foil leading edge to 1/3 with this as it was all chewed up from a reef kiss. b) Plug all leaks from same reef kiss and fix one of the main mounting points on the main hull. All cracked and leaking around the locating hole, have ground out all old / rotten glass and washed out. Used marine epoxy with added kevlar chop fibre to thicken into a paste to rebuild the non uniformed area. Repair has come up good but think I'll reinforce with some carbon cloth as well just to be sure. c) Make up missing bits and pieces to rig the tri, only a couple of ama clamps missing which I can knock up from 3mm stainless bar. Also need to reattach a couple of pulleys. d) Sail the sucker. Have watched some youtube video of this little cat and it seem to sail very nicely. Only issue I could see was that the ama tends to bury if heeled too far. 2. Ok so once I have sailed it and based on what I have seen on youtube I'm a little concerned about the ama sinking and pitching us. I bought this as a tame option alternative to a 4.4m calypso cat for the family. If I pitch us then there is no chance of upgrading to something like the Corsair Pulse 600 down the track. So to fix this I'm looking to modify the ama hulls by extending them about 500mm or 19". My plan is to use Knauf foam board which I already have: 1. Sand back the bow(s), clean and prep for epoxy. 2. Hulls are hollow fibreglass, i don't want to rely on the epoxy alone for strength and joint so was planning on using through hull dowels to either side with foam board, epoxy and clamping. 3. Once epoxy has set boards in place I will then reshape the bows the same way I would shape a surfboard by removing excess foam. I am looking to make a slight reverse wave piercing bow with flared canards set at around 3 deg tapering out to 1 deg. 4. Finish shaping and then lock the whole lot in a skin of epoxy, fibreglass matting and carbon fibre roving for strength. A couple of images attached for reference. Any suggestions, especially on the bow extensions would be appreciated. Thanks Hydromann7  

Attached Files:

Imag0851.jpg, imag0853.jpg, imag0854.jpg, imag0857.jpg, imag0858.jpg, imag0859.jpg, imag0852.jpg.

Onward... So I laid up some carbon on the leading edge of the rudder with my 2 younger boys today.. First attempt at working with epoxy and carbon mat, fairly happy with the results, just need to sand back to a defined edge and finish coat. Also laid carbon mat over the hull repair, again happy with result for a novice. Have also found that I am missing mast fittings, especially the base clamp... arrrgghhh . Will need to scrounge around the internet and see if anyone has a drawing or images and dimensions so I can make one up.  

IMAG0860.jpg

Imag0862.jpg, imag0863.jpg.

upchurchmr

upchurchmr Senior Member

There was an Australian who had one before. You might search on the forum. I believe he is rebuilding a Kraken 25 and building a singlehand TransAtlantic race boat - trimaran.  

Corley

Corley epoxy coated

Hi, I'd build new floats rather than try and modify the old. They are just too small overall for what you want to achieve. Some simple ply floats would do or repurposed cat hulls. A good donor would be something like a paper tiger cat you want something with more volume but not too much extra weight. The standard rig is small so it wont be super fast with the mods you propose probably slower than it is with the small floats. I quite liked mine when I had it the small floats are pretty safe you just push them under when over pressed and the boat rewards getting your human ballast out to windward. You can also right the boat pretty easily from a capsize with the small floats just pull the centerboard out and lean on it like a dinghy.  
Thanks Upchurchmr, Will see if I can track him down. Hydromann  
Corley is the guy as you can see.  
Hi Corley, Thanks for the reply, read your posts on your Supernova, nice to have some input from an experienced user. What are you sailing now? On the floats I have actually had a rethink... Have you seen this http://www.kaptenboatcollar.com/ It gave me an idea some time back for a mono hull design without ballast, I made a model and it actually worked brilliantly to my surprise. What I need in the floats is more buoyancy, this can be achieved only via volume increase. The existing hulls are hollow and as we know air has better buoyancy than foam so an air filled hull is the most buoyant design. However existing design can be enhanced with low density foam, instead just adding length I will also be adding width, it will be similar to the centre hull on a tri where the width increases to increase the buoyancy and provide added lift should the boat bury into a swell. I will use the foam along the length of the hull to create what is essentially a rail / chine along the whole length. This will add buoyancy and will also allow me to shape the rail to give hydraulic lift at the bow that increases with immersion. So the end result should be that I have the same wetted area for low speed / wind, as wind / heel and speed increase so will the wetted area due to added width but with a lifting effect along the length of the hull. I am yet to do the calcs but believe that I will have greater lift from the hydraulic design which will effect the stability more than the added buoyancy. Had considered new or use cat hulls but would need to build in my concepts to these anyway. Already have the foam and epoxy on hand as well as carbon fibre rod to make locking dowels, just need to do a bit of gluing, sanding and shaping to existing design and should end up with what I'm after. Seems a lot easier to me to use existing design that already fits well rather than make a complete new set of floats. Welcome any thoughts or feed back on concepts being considered. Greater minds than mine have done better. Many thanks, Hydromann  
Was thinking along these lines, but shaped much better than drawn Will try to mimic lines along main hull but with a bit more depth to the flared out profile. Hydromann  

Float mods.JPG

Hull mods Kinda like this if you get my rough sketching..  

Hull Modifications.JPG

Hull mods 2 Better depiction. Dowels = 6mm hollow carbon fibre rod. These will be through hull and sealed with urethane glue or epoxy / kevlar glue paste. Foam will be positioned over dowels in un-shaped sections but rough cut to profile wanted. Dowels will be marked and cut slightly short to allow clamping of foam during gluing to fibreglass hull. Clamp will be a balsa plate with backing washer screwed into end of hollow dowel. This way if balsa sticks to overflow glue it can be sanded off when final shaping foam. Once set the bond between original hull and foam should be very strong. Shaped foam will then be epoxy finished with either carbon or kevlar / fibreglass roving and mat, whatever I can get relatively cheaply. Final sanded / under coated and 2 pack polyurethane finished. I'm estimating around 80 plus extra litres of floatation per hull along with hydrodynamic benefits. If I get the positioning right then it will not effect the wetted area at low speed and will improve the lift and righting at higher speed and power. Hydromann  

Hull Modifications 2.JPG

Rudder Sanded out We sanded the carbon fibre back yesterday and here is the result. Quite happy with the finish, edges blended in nicely with very good adhesion to wood. Had actually planned on trimming a clean edge along the carbon fibre when it had gelled but missed the window so had to revert back to sanding. Will finish off with fine sand and then spray pack clear polyurethane. Should look better than new. Hydromann  

IMAG0866.jpg

You may have to look at strengthening the crossbeam structure with the new longer floats as the cantilever will be considerably greater or you could put another crossbeam forward. I never had any problems with my crossbeams but apparently they can break out the fiberglass around their mounting points in the main hull. The worst thing about these boats imo is the heavy main hull a new hull constructed with light weight in mind would really boost performance. I'm sailing on other club members boats at the moment as none of mine are ready to get wet as yet, last race was on an F82r trimaran. Good luck with your project. Hydromann7 said: ↑ Hi Corley, Thanks for the reply, read your posts on your Supernova, nice to have some input from an experienced user. What are you sailing now? On the floats I have actually had a rethink... Have you seen this http://www.kaptenboatcollar.com/ It gave me an idea some time back for a mono hull design without ballast, I made a model and it actually worked brilliantly to my surprise. What I need in the floats is more buoyancy, this can be achieved only via volume increase. The existing hulls are hollow and as we know air has better buoyancy than foam so an air filled hull is the most buoyant design. However existing design can be enhanced with low density foam, instead just adding length I will also be adding width, it will be similar to the centre hull on a tri where the width increases to increase the buoyancy and provide added lift should the boat bury into a swell. I will use the foam along the length of the hull to create what is essentially a rail / chine along the whole length. This will add buoyancy and will also allow me to shape the rail to give hydraulic lift at the bow that increases with immersion. So the end result should be that I have the same wetted area for low speed / wind, as wind / heel and speed increase so will the wetted area due to added width but with a lifting effect along the length of the hull. I am yet to do the calcs but believe that I will have greater lift from the hydraulic design which will effect the stability more than the added buoyancy. Had considered new or use cat hulls but would need to build in my concepts to these anyway. Already have the foam and epoxy on hand as well as carbon fibre rod to make locking dowels, just need to do a bit of gluing, sanding and shaping to existing design and should end up with what I'm after. Seems a lot easier to me to use existing design that already fits well rather than make a complete new set of floats. Welcome any thoughts or feed back on concepts being considered. Greater minds than mine have done better. Many thanks, Hydromann Click to expand...
Thanks for the feed back Corley, Yeah noted due to past damage to the mounting holes in main hull that they will need strengthening. Have fixed the damaged one with an epoxy / kevlar mix and laminated over with carbon fibre cloth, way stronger and only took a few minutes to do. Will also be taking some of the loading stress off with eye nuts mounted in main hull forward and aft of mounting locations and then using 200kg rated strap with 316 strap binders to tension either side. This should reduce any movement in this area which would subsequently load up the pin and hole configuration. So instead of just relying on the pin locking plates it will have the straps as well. Heavy main hull? Yours must be full of water ;-) I know it's heavy if compared to carbon fibre but for the age and size plus overall weight of the boat it seems ok to me. Probably around 20 to 25kg at the most? All up the boat comes in at around 85 to 90 kg which is around the same as my 4.4 cat with foam core hollow hulls. Was looking at the Rave V specs at around 150kg and others on a similar size as well and they all seemed around the same or heavier. Have gone away from lengthening the hulls to the idea of widening them instead, well maybe 100 - 150mm longer still. Would rather achieve added bow lift hydro-dynamically, also lends itself better to developing foils over winter for it. Have been working on a foil design and calcs for 2 years that does not require complex control systems or adjustments on the fly. In theory they should have little cavitation with minimal chance of ventilation and will ride height adjust across a broad velocity range. Still a bit of a pipe dream at the moment as is my ideal sail plan for it. First things first though and get what we have wet and working. Hydromann  
My main hull was much heavier. It was a solid glass layup and I'd estimate about twice the weight you listed for yours. It wasn't full of water but it was heavy maybe they changed the layup schedule at some point in the production run to take some weight out.  
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Wow, not sure what the difference is? Mine is solid glass around 4mm but it doesn't seem that heavy?? Nowhere near 50kg as my 14 yo son and I can easily lift onto the roof rack. I guess they could have skinny'd it up a bit? F82r trimaran is a beautiful boat, not seen one in real life but drooling over one for sale in Townsville. That or a similar sized cat would be a dream boat for me if doing coastal cruising. For day sailing I'd love the Corsair Pulse 600, still a very expensive boat new for the size of it. A couple that sail out of a club here in WA have just ordered one to replace their little Weta. Had a good talk to them about the Weta performance, if I get the improvements I want done and the balance right on the Supernova I think I could give them a good run. Best part is for a fraction of the cost of a Weta. BTW they weigh in at about as much as my Supernova? Hydroman  

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Wow, that was fast! Why trimarans are SO much fun to sail – and how to do it

  • Theo Stocker
  • February 13, 2024

For their size, trimarans can punch well above their weight in speed, cruising potential and fun. Monohull sailor Theo Stocker gets to grips with how to handle one

Humans tend to gravitate into tribes of like-minded enthusiasts, enjoying the encouragement, support and sense of identity, while often looking askance at others; sailors at motorboaters, cruising sailors at racers, monohull sailors at raft, I mean, multihull sailors, and everyone looks askance at jet-skiers.

Large cruising catamarans (40ft now counts as a small one) are a world apart from monohull sailing, but there’s a sub-tribe of sailors dedicated to life on three hulls and builders such as Dragonfly, Corsair, Farrier, and Astus give them plenty of choice.

I’ve been sailing a 22ft (7m) Astus 22.5 this season, with just enough space for a family of four and a minimum of creature comforts. Thanks to her VPLP-designed hulls and 650kg all-up weight, we can sail upwind at 7-plus knots and downwind at over 10 knots with ease, all on a roughly even keel, while the kids play Duplo down below. It can also be beached and is towable behind a car.

Having, it seems, caught the trimaran bug, I wanted to get better at sailing and handling the boat, but my monohull sailing experience and habits were proving something of a hindrance, so we sought advice from some existing trimaran owners, and well as the UK’s top multihull sailors.

Much of the advice will apply to all multihulls , whether two or three-hulled, while other parts are just for small trimarans. I also found that brushing-up some of my rusty dinghy sailing skills helped get my head around what we were trying to do.

To try out our expert tips we went out sailing to see what difference they made. On the day, we got a solid Force 4-5 southwesterly, averaging 16 knots, but fluctuating between 12 and 20 knots true.

trimaran resto

Blasting about on a sporty trimaran is a whole world of fun, but is much calmer than it looks

Trimaran sail trim

One of the biggest differences between a cruising monohull and a multihull is how the mainsail is trimmed. Leech tension on a yacht is often largely controlled by the kicker and the backstay, while the mainsheet sheets the mainsail in and out, predominantly controlling the angle of the boom to the centreline, and there may be a short traveller.

On a mulithull, however, there’s more than enough space for a good, wide traveller. Those who sail on performance monohulls will also be used to this. The sail shape is mainly controlled by the mainsheet, and the traveller then moves the boom towards or away from the centreline.

This is exaggerated on a multihull which has wide shrouds, swept well aft with no backstay, making space for a powerful square-top mainsail with full-length battens. There’s no backstay to bend the mast and flatten what is anyway a pretty rigid mainsail.

trimaran resto

The mainsheet purchase creates enough power to control the leech of the square-top mainsail

Depowering a trimaran

Sailing on a monohull, heel and weatherhelm and eventually a broach give loads of warning that you’re pushing too hard. With straight hulls and little heel, those warning signs don’t really apply to multihulls.

In reality, however, there are a host of warning signals that it’s time to back-off; they’re just a bit different. Even then, there’s still a large safety margin before you get close to danger.

By way of reassurance, with the boat powered up on a beat, Hein, from Boats on Wheels, the boat’s owner, stood on the leeward hull and lent on the shrouds. Even as his feet got wet and the wind gusted at the top of Force 4, the boat didn’t bat an eyelid, thanks to the huge buoyancy of the floats.

trimaran resto

Even with a person on the leeward float the boat was extremely stable

On the water – sail trim

My first inclination was to point the boat as high upwind as possible, pin the sails in and go for height. Doing that resulted in a not-terrible boat speed of 5-6 knots and a good pointing angle.

Free off by a handful of degrees however, and ease the sails just a smidge, and the speed leapt up to 8-9 knots – over 50% more; a huge increase. So, don’t pinch. If you had a decent chartplotter on board, you could find your optimum speed to angle using velocity made good (VMG).

I was also tempted to pinch in the gusts, but it’s better to hold your course and let the speed increase until the main needs easing.

trimaran resto

On the wind, it’s time to get the boat fully powered up

If that’s the case, drop the main down the traveller an inch or two or ease some twist into the mainsail and it makes all the difference in the world, but not so far that the top battens fall away and invert – that really isn’t fast. Push too hard and the boat will slow down, largely from the drag of submerging the leeward float and crossbeams. If you’re still overpowered and the main is luffing, it’s time to reef. Downwind is different, but we’ll get onto that later.

After we put a reef in the main, our boat speeds upwind remained largely the same, and the boat was much happier. I came away feeling reassured that even a little trimaran like this would be pretty difficult to capsize, and there were always plenty of warning signs telling me to take my foot off the pedal a little.

Article continues below…

trimaran resto

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Tacking and gybing a trimaran

Everyone knows that multihulls don’t tack as well as monohulls. Straight hulls and wide beam don’t lend themselves to turning, especially when coupled with the displacement and fixed keels of big cats. Trimarans are a little easier, with a single central daggerboard to act as a pivot, and one or other of the floats will generally be clear of the water. On the downside, light displacement means that there isn’t much momentum to keep you going through the turn and plenty of windage to stop you.

trimaran resto

On a trimaran the central daggerboard helps the boat to turn by providing a central pivot point that catamarans lack

Speed is your friend. Build speed up before the tack to give you as much momentum as possible. The helm needs to steer positively into and through the turn, and if necessary, keep the jib backed on the new windward side to help the bow through the wind. Don’t worry about scrubbing speed off, but you don’t want to get stuck in irons.

When it comes to gybing, speed is again key. The turning bit isn’t going to be an issue as you’ll be scooting along, but the faster you’re going, the less load there will be on the sails. The more you slow down, the more the true wind will pile up.

Trimaran sailing skills

Tacks took a bit of practice. It felt plain wrong to jab the tiller across the boat, slamming a big break on in the water but I ended up putting us through the tacks far too slowly, losing a lot of speed. A more aggressive approach worked better. On the Astus, the traveller was between me and the tiller, so the tiller extension needed to be swung around the stern behind the mainsheet onto the new side.

Similarly, old habits of controlling a gybe needed to be modified. With the asymmetric set, we were planing at well over 10 knots, and the ideal is to stay on the plane. Heading dead downwind and centring the main lead to a more violent manoeuvre than flying into the gybe as fast as possible and, as the boom was never that far out thanks to the apparent wind angle, it didn’t need much extra controlling.

Coming up onto the wind after the gybe helped the asymmetric around the front of the jib and to fill on the new side. Stay too deep and it’ll get blanketed by the main. Once we had built up some apparent wind, we could bear away again.

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You’ll be on a course deep downwind before you know it, hitting speeds in the double digits

Downwind in a trimaran

Upwind cruising may be fun in a multihull, but bearing away and going with the wind is what it’s all about. Easily-driven hulls, a generous sailplan and light weight mean you can be up and planing, leaving displacement boats wallowing in your wake.

The big difference comes from apparent wind. If you’re in a boat that can do 15 knots downwind in 20 knots of true wind, the resulting wind angles can really mess with your head.

To get going then, says Brian Thompson, ‘Use those leech tell-tales again when sailing downwind and reaching to set the correct twist through the mainsheet, and use the traveller to set the correct angle of the whole sail to the wind.’

As the wind and your speed builds, bear away and trim the main accordingly.

In theory, you shouldn’t need to ease the traveller at all, but you may need to if you want to sail deep downwind. As the gust fades, you’ll find the boat slows down, so you can come back up towards the wind a little to pick up some more breeze, and then bear away as you accelerate again.

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Bear away as the boat accelerates. Your course will be something of a slalom as you look to keep a consistent wind angle

This results in something of a ‘slalom’ course, and will also be accentuated if you’re sailing down waves, but that’s all quite normal for apparent wind sailing. Ultimately, you’re looking for a consistent apparent wind angle, even if the resulting wake isn’t straight.

It’s worth remembering that apparent wind reduces the felt effect of the wind, so you need a sailplan to suit the true, not apparent wind speed.

I found that the boat was more sensitive to having a balanced sailplan and trim downwind than upwind, largely because you’ve got almost double the canvas up, with the bowsprit as an extra lever. When weather helm built, I needed to ease the mainsheet to increase twist to depower so that I could bear away. I must admit, getting the boat balanced, sailing fast and light on the helm at 15 knots was something I came away feeling I needed more practice at.

Reviewing the images, I suspect the asymmetric was sheeted in too hard, with too much twist in the main.

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Getting a float fully submerged is when it’s time to back off

On the water

Unfurling the gennaker worked best on a beam reach, giving plenty of airflow over the sail to help it fully unfurl. This was also roughly the fastest point of sail, ideal for getting up some speed for apparent wind sailing. We mostly had the sails set for a close reach, even when we were beyond 120º off the true wind on a broad reach.

It was possible to soak deeper downwind, but lose the apparent wind benefit downwind and our speed dropped off dramatically, prompting us to point a bit higher to find some more speed.

As the boat powered up, it paid to hold a slightly higher angle than I would have done in a monohull for the boat to properly take off and get up into double digit speeds – topping out at 15 knots. Lymington to Cowes would have taken us just half an hour at that speed. It’s easy to give yourself a heck of a beat back!

We were sailing on a pretty flat day, so didn’t have to contend with any waves to speak of. On the recent RTI this is what caused the capsizes of at least two multis, a sobering reminder that you need to sail much more conservatively in lumpier conditions.

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The bows want to point downwind, so a stern-first approach works with rather than against the boat

Coming alongside

A 650kg boat with no draught and plenty of windage feels dreadfully skittish when manoeuvring in confined spaces. Straight hulls with no forgiving curves and fragile-looking sharp bows make berthing tricky. You’ve got a couple of advantages on your side, however. In the Astus, the floats are at pontoon height making stepping off easy.

Whether you have an engine in each hull of a cat, or one in the central hull of a tri, there’s also a lot more leverage to play with to turn the boat and drive her on or off the pontoon. A steerable outboard gives you even more options.

If the boat has a lifting keel or daggerboards, put them down if there’s enough depth to give you a pivot and to resist drifting. Think about getting corners onto the pontoon, rather than putting the boat alongside. On tris, you won’t be able to get to the bow to fend off as it’s too narrow. You can rig a fender up forwards on a line, and two fenders are enough on the flat sides.

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Steering with the outboard towards the pontoon will drive the stern in more; steer away to drive the bow in more

Offshore wind

Coming onto the pontoon with wind blowing off, it worked well coming in stern first. If there’s a tide running, you’ll want to be heading into the tide, so find a spot down wind and down tide to start your approach so you come in at an angle.

On our first attempt we had a bit of tide under us to start with so we came in at a much steeper angle, almost 90º, although this worked out OK in the end.

The crew could then step ashore, taking a line from the stern quarter round a cleat.

Drive forwards against the line and the bow will obediently drive up towards the pontoon, bringing you flat alongside. Getting off was simple, releasing the bowline, and allowing the bow to swing out the before slipping the stern line.

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Coming in astern and stopping upwind of the berth meant the bows blew towards the pontoon far to quickly

Onshore wind

Getting onto and off a pontoon with onshore wind proved rather trickier. On our first attempt we came in stern first. The issue was that once we were just upwind of our desired berth and stopped, we lost steerage and the bow immediately blew off with alarming speed towards the pontoon.

Going ahead would only increase the force of the impact, while going astern only increased the bow’s sideways drift. I managed to back out without smashing the bow, but only just, and ended up awkwardly stern to the wind with the bows pointing at the pontoon.

On our second attempt we came in bows first but having aimed at the berth, I had to motor the stern to leeward to stop the bow hitting, making for a rather forceful coming alongside.

On take three, I came in forwards and began ferry gliding towards the berth early, keeping the bows to windward of the stern. Being able to steer with the outboard meant I could go ahead to keep the bow up, and go astern with the engine pulling the stern down toward the pontoon. In this way, it was possible to come in pretty well controlled and parallel to the berth.

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To get out, motoring astern against a bow line pulled the entire boat clear before slipping the line

Leaving was a different proposition all together, as I didn’t want to drag the bow along the pontoon, or to drive hard onto it to spring off. Instead, we rigged a slip-line from the forward cross beam. Going astern against this, and then turning the engine towards the wind, I could pull the stern, and the rest of the boat, out and away from the pontoon.

Keeping power on astern, once we’d reached a decent angle, we slipped the line and went astern, finding steerage way almost at once, with the bow following obediently in our wake with more control than I had anticipated.

Whether the wind is blowing onto, or off the pontoon, you want the engine to be driving or pulling the boat off the pontoon with a line on the corner you are going away from. That way you avoid point-loading fine ends where it’s hard to fender.

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You’ll want a bridle to reduce swinging, but keep the pick up lines on the bow as backup

Anchoring and mooring a trimaran

While mooring a catamaran is complicated by the lack of a central bow, things should be simpler on a trimaran, and they are, mostly. Picking up a mooring buoy from the main hull bow with a low freeboard and dropping the pick-up line onto a cleat is easier even than a monohull.

The bow may be narrow, but for any lines that pass through a ring on the buoy, you still need to take it back to the same cleat to avoid chafe. That should be it, but windage from the two extra bows and the lack of keel mean the boat can dance merrily around the mooring buoy in a breeze.

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Rig the bridle so the buoy sits to one side to stabilise the boat

In practice, we found that a trimaran benefits from a mooring bridle in the same way that a catamaran does. It can’t be rigged from the floats’ bows, as there are no mooring cleats, so a line passed around the outboard ends of the forward beams gave a pretty good angle, again with long lines passed through the mooring and back to the same side. The main pick-up lines stay as a safety backup.

The other trick is to rig the bridle asymmetrically so that the buoy sits to one side or the other, just enough to not be dead head to wind, making it much more stable in the wind.

On the plus side, the lack of draught or keel means that you’ll nearly always be lying head to wind, so the cockpit remains nice and sheltered whatever the tide’s doing.

We ran out of time on the day to try anchoring, but rigging a bridle, effectively a long snubber to a point on the anchor chain in a similar way wouldn’t be tricky.

If you needed not to swing, or to behave more like deeper boats nearby, hanging a bucket over the stern can help, or there’s always anchoring with a kedge, either out ahead in a V, or in line astern.

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The complete list of trimarans.

There is no single trimaran that is best for everyone. Where some prefer luxury cruisers for long trips with family and friends, others might opt for a high performance racing tri for thrilling rides at breakneck speeds. With the recent spike in trimaran popularity, these days there is a perfect tri for every sailor. So to help prospective trimaran owners decide which boat is just right for them, we here at WindRider have put together a comprehensive list of the best trimarans on the market today! Read through for simple at-a-glance trimaran comparisons of boats both big and small, exhilarating and relaxing, and for all price points.

Jump to a specific sailing trimaran: Neel Weta Corsair WindRider Dragonfly Catri Astus Hobie Sea Pearl Farrier Sea Cart Multi 23 Triak SeaRail Warren Lightcraft Diam Radikal Challenger

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Known for their award-winning luxury trimarans,   NEEL   is based in La Rochelle, the capital city of sailing in France. NEEL trimarans are built for fast cruising with an average cruising speed of about 10 knots, and are even configured to facilitate that sustained speed under motor propulsion. The NEEL 45 was notably named Cruising World’s Most Innovative Vessel in 2013, and by all accounts is an easy-to-sail, high performance boat that is just plain fun.

At a glance:

Models: NEEL 45, 65

Length: 45’ – 65’

Cost:   $$$$$

Use: Luxury cruiser

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A fan favorite,   Weta trimarans   are fast, stable, and remarkably easy to rig. This single-sailor tri has a capacity of up to three, and the ease with which it can be transported and stored makes this a great, versatile boat for beginners. The Weta was named Sailing World’s 2010 Boat of the Year, and one ride is enough to know why: simply put, the Weta is an absolute ton of fun to sail regardless of skill level.

Models: Weta

Length: 14’5”

Cost:   $$ $$$

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The high-end   Corsair trimaran   definitely holds its own in the categories of versatility, performance, and convenience. Boasting a rigging time of 30 minutes from trailer to sailor ,   the Corsair 42 – whose convenient folding amas makes trailering possible – is a simple option even for single sailors, though cabin space is suitable for two adults. These boats are wicked fast, capable of reaching speeds of 20+ knots, and were made for skilled sailors seeking solid construction and high performance vessels, not for beginners.

Models: Pulse 600, Sprint 750 MKII, Dash 750 MKII, Corsair 28, Cruze 970, Corsair 37, Corsair 42

Length: 19’8” – 37’

Cost:   $$$$ $

Use: Sports cruisers

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Built for the sailor who wants to maximize the joys of sailing while minimizing any hassle, WindRider trimarans are notoriously fast, very safe, and a blast to sail from start to finish. With several models that can hold between 1 and 6 riders, including adaptive designs to allow participation from sailors of all levels of mobility, there’s something to suit every sailor’s needs. The WindRider 17, an exhilarating ride perfect for families or camper sailors, has been known to reach speeds of up to 20mph. This easy day sailor goes from trailer to sailing in under 30 minutes and is sure to fit in perfectly with whatever adventures you have planned.

Models: WR 16, 17, Tango, Rave V

Length: 10’11” – 18’3”

Cost:   $ $$$$

Use: Day sailor

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The Danish-built   Dragonfly   trimarans come in a variety of models ranging from 25’ – 35’, all known for their spry performance, comfortable ride, and ease of use. Every model comes equipped with the unique “SwingWing” feature, a motorized system that can unfold the amas even while the boat is already underway – making it accessible to marinas and slips, and even makes trailering possible. Perfect for those who don’t want to sacrifice their comfort for high performance, the Dragonfly can breeze along at 13 knots while remaining one of the quietest compact cruisers out there.

Models: Dragonfly 25, 28, 32, 35, 1200

Length: 25’ – 39’

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Designed for both safe cruising as well as for high speed racing,   Catri trimarans   will make your day. Especially noteworthy is the Catri 25, a stable yet wildly fast foiling trimaran with accommodations for up to 6 people. With profiles optimized for speeds of 25+ knots when foiling, this is no beginner’s sailboat. The special attention paid to stability in the foil design allows the Catri to be a single sailor vessel, even at foiling speed, with no special physical abilities. Whether you’re taking a small crew for longer rides at shuddering speeds or bringing the whole family along for a shorter, but still thrilling sail, the Catri is truly one of a kind.

Models: Catri 25

Length: 25’

Use: Cruiser/racer

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A popular brand of trimaran in Europe,   Astus   has recently made its way to the US market to the delight of sailors on this side of the pond. Designed to offer maximum pleasure with minimum hassle, all models of Astus trimarans are fast to set up, quick on the water, inherently stable, and always a joy to sail. Their outriggers are mounted on telescopic tubes for easy stowage and towing, and can even be extended and retracted on the water for access to narrow passageways and monohull slips in marinas. With models in all sizes and price points, Astus trimarans are a great option for any sailor.

Models: Astus 16.5, 18.2, 20.2, 22, 24

Cabin: Some models

Length: 16’ – 24’

Use: Sport cruisers

HOBIE ADVENTURE ISLAND

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Great for beginners and adventurers alike, the   Hobie Mirage Adventure Island   series is nothing if not just plain fun. With the option to use as a kayak or as a very basic trimaran, the Hobie is transportable, versatile, unintimidating, lightweight, and wonderfully affordable. The pedal system known as “Mirage Drive” allows a person to pedal the kayak using their legs for an extra kick of movement in slow winds. Amas tuck close to the main hull for docking or car-topping, adding serious ease and convenience to the exhilarating experience of the Hobie.

Models: Hobie Mirage Adventure Island, Mirage Tandem Island

Length: 16’7” – 18’6”

Use: Convertible kayak/trimarans

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Best known for its use in camp cruising excursions, the   Sea Pearl   offers a roomy main hull and particular ability to sail in very shallow waters, making beaching and launching a breeze. The lightweight Sea Pearl trimaran is easy to tow, and the larger-than-expected cabin opens this vessel up for overnight adventures with plenty of storage space. The simple design makes the Sea Pearl notoriously low maintenance, and the ease it takes to rig and sail it add to the overall delight of owning this boat.

Models: Sea Pearl

Length: 21’

Use: Camper cruiser

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Quick, lightweight, roomy, and trailerable,   Farrier trimarans   are made for versatility to fit every sailor’s needs. Different Farrier models are available in plan or kit boat form for those who appreciate building their boat themselves, but of course, also as the full production sail-away boat for the rest of us. Single-handed rigging and launching takes under 10 minutes from start to finish, minimizing hassle and getting you on the water fast. All non-racing Farrier designs use a minimum wind capsize speed of 30 knots or more to ensure safety for all those aboard. Add the roomy cabin and high speed capabilities to the equation and you’ve got a boat that is great fun for everyone.

Models:   F-22, 24, 25, 82, 27, 28, 31, 9A, 9AX, 9R, 32, 33, 33R, 33ST, 36, 39, 41, 44R

Length: 23’ – 39’4”

Cost:   $$$ $$

Use: Sport cruisers/racers

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One of the biggest names in the game,   SeaCart   is internationally noted for its high performance trimarans that far exceed expectations for a production boat of its size. The SeaCart trimaran performs as brilliantly off the water as it does on with its super-light and efficient harbor folding system, making light work of trailering. Notoriously easy to manage and maintain, the SeaCart 26 One Design is the ultimate day racing trimaran, designed for both course and inshore/coastal distance racing. Absolutely worth the international buzz it has garnered, the SeaCart is a thrill from beginning to end.

Models:   SeaCart 26

Length: 26’

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A high performance racer class, the   Multi 23   is a lightweight, powerful trimaran known for its wicked speed of up to 25 knots. Multi trimarans of both available configurations were designed to give beach cat thrills and speed without any of the stability or seaworthy concerns. Open ocean sailing is no issue for the Multi’s big bows, which do their job to keep her stable. Built for sailors with a need for speed, the Multi makes a perfect weekend boat for racers, especially those with a taste for boat camping.

Models:   Multi 23

Length: 23’

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Another dual outrigger sailing kayak/canoe design,   the Triak trimaran   was designed to be effortless and fun, especially for beginners. Paddle the kayak with sails furled, use the foot pedals for an extra kick of momentum, or sail with just the mainsail – the only boat in its class to feature an asymmetrical spinnaker – for exhilarating speeds and a blast on the water. Car-top the Triak anywhere for a quick sail or plan for a week long expedition, but always count on having a great time on this easy little boat.

Models:   Triak

Length: 18’

Use: Convertible kayak/trimaran

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SeaRail trimarans   are known for being affordable, light weight, trailerable trimarans that offer the perfect combination of exciting and relaxing experiences to a wide range of sailors. Whether it’s day sailing with your family, resort or camper sailing, SeaRail trimarans are ideal leisure vessels. Leave the hassle to the other boats – the SeaRail takes you from trailer to sailor in 15 minutes. But don’t let its reputation as a leisure tri fool you: if speed is what you want, rest assured that the SeaRail can deliver that as well.

Models:   SeaRail 19

WARREN LIGHTCRAFT

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Warren Lightcraft trimarans , another example of a convertible kayak-to-sailboat option, are known for their aesthetically pleasing designs that are also, as the name implies, very light for simple transportation and ease of use. Convert the kayak into a fast, high performance sailboat in just minutes, fly around on the waves all day long, then simply car-top the 68lb Warren for a maximum enjoyment, low-hassle day on the water. Perfect for sailors and paddlers of all skill levels, the Warren Lightcraft is the best of both worlds and an absolute joy to sail.

Models:   Warren Lightcraft

Length: 15’6”

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Built strictly with racing in mind,   the Diam 24   is a light, powerful one-design class trimaran and a notoriously exceptional performer. Boasting blistering speeds of up to 30 knots, Diam trimarans are not intended for beginners. For racers who crave the very best in terms of intense speeds, smooth handling and impeccable performance, the Diam is the red-hot one-design racing tri for you.

Models:   Diam 24

Length: 24’

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For the sailor who prefers the finer things in life, the   Radikal 26   delivers. Perfect for bringing the whole family out for a day on the water, this high performance, trailerable sailing trimaran strikes the most luxurious balance between quicksilver speeds and a smooth, comfortable ride. The Radikal 26 trimaran is as convenient to transport and set up as it is pleasant to sail, with a folding system that minimizes rigging hassle and also makes this a trailerable tri. Built for a fast and comfortable sail rather than a hold-onto-your-seats thrill, one-the-water safety and overall pleasure makes the Radikal 26 what it is.

Models:   Radikal 26

Use: Sport cruiser

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A solidly-built, single-handed trimaran, the Challenger also doubles as an adaptive design – meaning it is made to accommodate sailors of all levels of physical mobility. Best suited to lakes, the Challenger is a very safe, seaworthy boat for sailors of all ages and experience levels. Add to this the ease of owning, transporting and maintaining the Challenger trimaran and what you get is a simple, fun sailboat perfect both for beginners and those seeking a cheap thrill alike.

Models:   Challenger

At a glance comparison:

Astus 16.5, 18.2, 20.2, 22, 24 16’ – 24’ Sport cruiser Some models
Catri 25 25’ Cruiser/racer Y
Challenger - Day sailor N
Pulse 600, Sprint 750 MKII, Dash 750 MKII, Cruze 970, Corsair 28, 37, 42 19’8” – 37’ Sport cruisers Y
Diam 24 24’ Racer N
Dragonfly 25, 28, 32, 35, 1200 25’ – 39’ Luxury cruiser Y
F-22, 24, 25, 82, 27, 28, 31, 9A, 9AX, 9R, 32, 33, 33R, 33ST, 36, 39, 41, 44R 23’ – 39’ 4” Sport cruisers/racers Y
Mirage Island, Mirage Tandem Island 16’7” – 18’6” Convertible kayak/trimarans N
Multi 23 22’ Racer Y
NEEL 45, 65 44’ – 65’ Luxury cruiser Y
Radikal 26 26’ Sport cruiser Y
Sea Pearl 21’ Camper cruiser Y
SeaCart 26 26’ Racer Y
SeaRail 19 18’ Day sailor N
Triak 18’ Convertible kayak/trimaran N
Warren Lightcraft 15’6” Convertible kayak/trimaran N
Weta 14’5” Racer N
WR 16, 17, Tango, Rave V 10’11” – 18’3” Day sailor N

Did we miss one? Let us know. Tell us what you sail and what you like about each boat in the comments below.

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NEEL 43

The NEEL 43, surprising and innovative

The neel 43, lombard-designed, is even more innovative and impressive, and with a marked move towards the use of bio-sourced and recyclable materials, neel-trimarans has confirmed its determined commitment to respecting the environment., photos and videos, neel 43 sailing, the neel 43 is a trimaran that is both fast and safe, yet easily manoeuvrable by a small crew. its handling at sea, coupled with its performance and comfort levels are outstanding..

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NEEL 43 Exterior

The helm station is especially ergonomic, offering a triple seat,it is accessible, from the cockpit or from the deck. the cockloon® effect can be appreciated thanks to the wide opening between the cockpit and the saloon..

NEEL 43 21

NEEL 43 Interior

The distribution of volumes, flow of movement and luminosity make this new interior a truly unique living space. there are two double cabins, and the configuration of the saloon can be rearranged to sleeps up to 4 people.

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NEEL 43 Life style

The neel 43, which can accommodate up to 10 people, is both fun at anchor and efficient at sea. life on board the neel 43 is definitely synonymous with pleasure and holidays with a a saloon and a cockpit which communicate easily and which form the famous cockloon®.

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Specifications

43 ft Overall width 24.60 ft Draught 4.95 ft Air draft 62 ft Displacement 9 T Full battens mainsail 630 sq ft Furling genoa 466 sq ft Water 132 US Gallons Fuel 80 US Gallons Engine Volvo Penta 50 CV Ship designers Marc Lombard Yacht Design Group Conception NEEL-TRIMARANS CE Certification ICNN

NEEL 43 pont

Testimonials

Testimony - Crossing the Atlantic on a NEEL 43 ? A child’s play! 1

Testimony – Crossing the Atlantic on a NEEL 43 ? A child’s play!

Last July, the SAIL AND SURF WITH THE PLANET family had just taken delivery of their NEEL 43 in La Rochelle. Audrey, Christophe and their 4 children had taken the...

Around the world with 4 children aboard a NEEL 43 : the testimony of the SAIL AND SURF family 7

Around the world with 4 children aboard a NEEL 43 : the testimony of the SAIL AND SURF family

You have owned a NEEL 43 for a few weeks now. Why did you choose a NEEL trimaran and more precisely the NEEL 43 ? At the beginning of...

First months of sailing with a NEEL 43 1

First months of sailing with a NEEL 43

You have owned a NEEL 43 for a few months now. Why did you choose a NEEL trimaran and more precisely the NEEL 43 ?  I have known and visited...

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CORSAIR 760

The 24' corsair has been an enormous success across more than 3 decades of production. however this newest model has received a radical redesign by our partners at perus yacht design, making her the best 24' corsair yet., complete control & comfort, in such a performance machine.

“ Some of the best sailing I’ve done in my entire life and I’m very new to trimaran racing or multihull racing. It’s a blast, I cannot think of anything better than sailing a Corsair trimaran”

– Donovan Brennan – USA

SLIDING POPTOP

Comfortable cruising trimaran.

The 760 offers a comfortable cruising interior with compact galley and pop top to add headroom. This compact cruising trimaran has been designed to comfortably sleep couples for a weekend getaways.   With the addition of an optional collapsible dining table, it will sleep up to 4 making the 760 a performance cruiser the whole family can enjoy.

COMPACT GALLEY

More comfort and safety than any other trimaran of this size, and the greatest 24’ Corsair yet.  This is a beautiful new Corsair offers a comfortable new cruising interior to sleep a couple on a weekend getaway with a galley sink and stove to keep you refreshed.

The 760 offers a comfortable cruising interior with compact galley and pop top. This compact cruising trimaran has been designed to comfortably sleep couples for weekend getaways and with the addition of an optional collapsible dining table will sleep up to 4 making the 760 a performance cruiser the whole family can enjoy.

FOLDABLE PERFOMANCE CRUISER

FOLDABLE PERFOMANCE CRUISER Being able to easily fold and quickly trailer is an important feature for all Corsair trimarans and is a feature that makes the 760 a great choice for people looking to get out on the water and have fun with minimal effort.

FOLDABLE PERFOMANCE CRUISER Folding and unfolding a Corsair takes only a minute. With just 4 bolts to remove, it is easily managed by one person, and is normally done while afloat.

FOLDABLE PERFOMANCE CRUISER The 760 offers a comfortable cruising interior with compact galley and pop top. This compact cruising trimaran has been designed to comfortably sleep couples for weekend getaways and with the addition of an optional collapsible dining table will sleep up to 4 making the 760 a performance cruiser the whole family can enjoy.

FOLDABLE PERFOMANCE CRUISER The 760 offers sailors more comfort, performance and safety than any other trimaran range in this size. This has been achieved by cleverly designing high volume, wave piercing floats. Offering additional buoyancy and significantly increasing the vessels righting moments and safety margins.

Ideal boat for a Solo Adventure:

Sailing the corsair 760.

We go on a SOLO adventure onboard the thrilling Corsair 760 to remote national parks to see all design features of this ultra versatile boat and discover that you don't always need a crew or a big boat to enjoy cruising.

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SPECIFICATIONS

Overall length, 24' 3" / 7.39 m, 17' 11" / 5.46 m, beam folded, 8' 2" / 2.5 m, upwind sail area, draft d/b up, draft d/b down, 5' 3" / 1.6 m, mast length, 34' 5" / 10.5 m, unladen weight, 2,094 lbs / 950 kg, 34' 5" / 10.5 m carbon, 1,795 lbs / 816 kg, recommended options.

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Dash760-OPT006

Anchor, chain & fenders.

The option will include:

  • Anchor & rode.
  • 3 x high quality fenders.
  • 2 x mooring lines.

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Dash760-OPT003

Sunrise yachting high-quality reinforced bow nets increase the safety and comfort of your boat.

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DASH760-OPT001

Floats locker.

Upgrading this option allows you to easily access and utilise the space inside the floats – often for storage of fenders, ropes, hooks, and more… This option also will change the standard 6′ hatchs to 2 high quality tempered glass covers.

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PERFORMANCE PACKAGE

This option will enhance your fine control over the performance of the boat. The option includes:

  • Ronstan Battle stick
  • Windex 15 wind indicator
  • 2 Harken & 2 Ronstan blocks

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SCREACHER CONTROL KIT

Screacher control kit for Corsair Dash 760 and 760R. This is a required option if you would like to include a screacher sail with your boat, or would like to add such a sail in the future.

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SPINNAKER CONTROL KIT

  • Double braid ropes
  • Winch pocket & winch handle
  • 2 Single 57mm carbo block
  • Folding Corsair Trimarans: Legendary Ability, Unbeatable Reliability
  • 5 Reasons Why The Corsair 760 Trimaran Won Multihull Of The Year
  • Corsair Range Brochure
  • Corsair Community
  • Find A Dealer

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Tel +84 28 3873 3630

Sales Enquiry:

[email protected]

Customer Service Enquiry:

[email protected]

© 2024 Corsair Marine International. Alls rights reserved.

Privacy Policy

    Beam:  35'    Draft:  5-8'
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© 2001-2024 ./)   . . ./)   . .

The KGB’s Favorite Restaurant Reopens in Moscow

Aragvi, the haunt of Soviet-era celebrities and spies opens after a 13-year absence and $20 million renovation

Jason Daley

Correspondent

Aragvi Interior

Anyone who stepped into Aragvi during the second half of the 20th century was likely to spot a Eastern bloc movie star, chess champion, cosmonaut or a politburo member. For decades, the restaurant at No. 6/2 Tverskaya Ulitsa in Moscow was the place to be seen for the cream of Soviet society and was a favorite haunt of spies and KGB agents. After the fall of the USSR, however, the restaurant fell on hard times and closed. Now, after almost 15 years, the Georgian restaurant has reopened its doors, hoping its Soviet-era cachet will bring it back to the culinary hip list.

Mary Louise Kelly at NPR reports that the restaurant, opened in 1938, was a favorite with Stalin’s chief of secret police, Lavrentiy Beria, who stopped in often with Stalin’s son Vasily for the Georgian wine. It’s even rumored that Beria designed the state-owned restaurant.

Veteran KGB spy Yury Kobaladze tells Kelly that the restaurant was also a favorite haunt of Kim Philby , a British agent secretly working for the Soviets who served as the liaison between MI6 and the CIA. He defected to the USSR in 1963 after being outed as a double agent. “He liked Georgian food,” Kobaladze says. “That's what he told me. He loved Aragvi.”

Many other people also loved Aragvi since, according to Ilya Krol at The Moscow Times , it was the only place in the city to get Georgian cuisine. “You can't compare today’s dining scene in Moscow with the Soviet one,” poet Lev Rubinshtein, who frequented Aragvi in the 1970s tells Krol. “How many places could you get food from the Caucasus in the capital? Just a few places serving shashlik (grilled meat). Aragvi, with its 12-page menu, had no rival.”

Sergei Solovyov , a director known for  Assa and  Anna Karenina also witnessed the Soviet-era decadence. “I was really shocked when I saw the dishes that you could order there,” he tells Krol. “I can see it as if it were yesterday. They brought our order of lobio, satsivi, shashlik, chicken livers, and caviar to the table … but I was so hungry that I fainted before the waiter brought our plates.”

According to Marina Lapenkova at Agence France-Presse , the formerly state-run restaurant changed hands several times after the fall of the Soviet Union, eventually closing for good in 2003. But the Tashir group and investor Gor Nakhapetyan have spent nearly 15 years and $20 million to restore the nine-room restaurant. The main dining rooms are painted with Soviet murals depicting tractors, workers and sheaves of corn, but otherwise the space does not resemble the previous incarnation.

Head chef Alexei Zenin tells Krol that the menu focuses on authentic versions of Black Sea cuisine, like the dumpling khinkali and the chopped salad  pkhali . Unlike the first time around, the restaurant faces stiff competition. Cheap Georgian food has become very popular in Moscow. That’s why the owners hope to capitalize on the restaurant’s unique history.

But recreating the Cold War ambience exactly would be difficult. Mikhail Lyubimov, a former KGB agent who headed operations against Britain and Scandinavian says most of the staff at the restaurant were retired KGB officers and the restaurant was a great recruiting ground for spies. It was also the spot where agents held farewell parties for colleagues going abroad. He tells Lapenkova he remembers a night “with plenty of drinking, [when] one of our men invited a beautiful woman to dance, not realizing she herself was a US spy and was being tailed by the KGB.”

To get the mood just right, the restaurant would have to bring back the surveillance too. “Everything was bugged, you know?” Kobaladze tells Kelly. “But everybody knew that if you were in Aragvi: don’t talk, keep quiet. The rumor was that all [the] tables had microphones.”

Aragvi Exterior

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Jason Daley | | READ MORE

Jason Daley is a Madison, Wisconsin-based writer specializing in natural history, science, travel, and the environment. His work has appeared in Discover , Popular Science , Outside , Men’s Journal , and other magazines.

IMAGES

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COMMENTS

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  11. 14' Trimaran Restore and Upgrade

    Hydromann7 Junior Member. Hi Any and all, Scored a small 14' Supernova Trimaran for $300.00 complete. Only missing a few simple fixtures, also needs a few minor hull repairs and and a respray. I figured for $300 I can afford to spend another $1k on doing it up to have an awesome little tri. So, here's the plan.

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  13. Side Trips from Moscow

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  23. The KGB's Favorite Restaurant Reopens in Moscow

    For decades, the restaurant at No. 6/2 Tverskaya Ulitsa in Moscow was the place to be seen for the cream of Soviet society and was a favorite haunt of spies and KGB agents. After the fall of the ...