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Explaining the Different Types of Marine Window Material

Taking proper care of your boat keeps it seaworthy for longer. Choosing the right materials for your marine windows is one important choice boat owners need to make to do just that.

Typically, boat windows are made from specialty textiles rather than glass . These textiles are designed to withstand everything the open water throws at them. Several different kinds of clear textiles are available today and knowing your marine window material options helps you ensure you’re getting the right product for your needs.

[To Learn More About Strataglass Marine Vinyl, Contact Us Today]

Here’s a quick look at the most popular marine window materials on the market today:

Vinyl and Polyester Composite: An excellent composite material, vinyl and polyester composite fabrics offers the flexibility you need to curve and bend along a boat’s contours easily. Fabrics made using this composite stay tight against the frame and provide waterproof and mildew resistance. Herculite Inc. offers this composite combination in two top quality marine grade fabrics: Riviera and Regatta .
Clear Pressed Polished Coated Vinyl : A popular choice for everyday marine use, clear pressed polished coated vinyl can be rolled back easily, which is great for boat tops. Herculite’s Strataglass is one of the top brands on the market for this versatile material. Another reason for the popularity of this material it is available with scratch-resistant special coatings, which extend the life of the material considerably. Strataglass is one such example of a material that offers such a coating: VueShield .
Polycarbonate: Made from a semi-rigid clear plastic, polycarbonate windows are widely considered to be nearly unbreakable. With polycarbonate, user visibility is clearer that other clear plastics, plus it can be coated with scratch and UV resistant coatings for additional protection. Polycarbonate is an excellent choice for rugged uses. However, this textile isn’t soft like clear vinyl so it can’t be rolled up for storage. It also tends to be pricey.
Acrylic: Like polycarbonate, acrylic panels are semi-rigid and provide excellent visibility. Acrylic panels are very difficult to break, making them an excellent choice for rugged marine use. However, acrylic fabric windows can be scratched easier than some other options, and the panels can’t be rolled up for storage. Acrylic can also be expensive, so it’s best used sparingly.

When it comes to marine vinyl window materials, remember to consider the cost of each material and how that relates to its longevity. Some materials will last longer than others, which make their additional cost make sense over than cheaper materials that will require frequent replacement. Alternately, if you can maintain a more affordable and versatile fabric like polycarbonate or a clear polished pressed vinyl properly over time, why not choose the more cost effective solution (and get benefits like a roll up window?) How you use your boat and what your needs are will dictate which material is best for you.

One final note: remember that the gauge (a.k.a. thickness) of your windows affects how it will look, as well as its clarity and flexibility. Some marine window materials come in gauges as thick as 40 gauge and as thin as 12 gauge. Before you buy, check out this quick buying guide on marine window materials to make sure you’re getting the perfect choice for your needs.

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Window Material

We sell 3 types of clear vinyl window material. Our "roll vinyl" is least expensive but flexible and is available in 20 gauge and 30 gauge thickness. In our canvas shop, we use 20 gauge for porch enclosures and 30 gauge for enclosures on small run-abouts and pontoon boats. Crystal Clear is roll vinyl that has been pressed and polished for better clarity. Strataglass goes one step further with a polymer coating which makes this "glass" more resistitant to scratches and UV damage. Both Crystal Clear and Strataglass are available in a thickness of 40 gauge and are flexible enough for roll-up "smiles" on enclosures.

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What’s The Best Type Of Material For Aftermarket Boat Windshields?

Not all boat windshields are built the same way. Some feature materials that are sturdier than others in certain applications. That means you can’t choose a one-size-fits-all windshield, because they might fail for a job they’re not made for. So let’s sail on and take a look at the most common materials used for aftermarket boat windshields.

Related: DIY Boat Restoration in 5 Easy Steps

Types Of Materials

There are three basic types of materials used for marine window or windshield. Here’s a quick look at each of them:

Acrylic: This type of marine window isn’t made of glass, but with a special type of plastic. Also known as “organic glass,” acrylic is a semi-rigid window option. That means you can bend it to a certain degree without breaking. This is one of the most commonly used materials in marine application s , for reasons that will be explained further.
Glass: This is a bit closer to windows in homes that people are more familiar with. It’s another popular choice for use on custom boat windshields, mainly due to their versatility.
Polycarbonate: This is made from a semi-rigid clear plastic that is durable enough to be considered unbreakable. It can withstand far more punishment on the water than almost anything else, but that comes at a price.

What Are The Advantages Of Each?

As previously discussed, each aftermarket boat windshield or window material has its own advantages. Read on to learn more about what each material can do, and when they’re best applied.

Acrylic is much like polycarbonate because it’s semi-rigid. Again, this allows for a certain degree of bending, which makes it great for following a boat’s contours. As you may know, boats don’t always have straight lines. Going for an acrylic windowpane will make installing windows easier. Another thing about acrylic is it’s also incredibly durable. They’re very strong; strong enough in fact that they’re hard to break. This makes them perfect for rugged environments, like the open ocean. Lastly, acrylic is naturally UV resistant, so there’s no need for extra coating to protect yourself from harmful UV rays.
Glass is easier to find, and sometimes even cheaper than non-glass alternatives. Many praise glass for its overall versatility, because you can install it anywhere on a boat. Side windows, deck windows, even on the bridge – it doesn’t matter. There is always a glass option for every specific installation location on a boat. And since glass can also be custom-shaped, you don’t have to bend it. You can have it custom-ordered to fit a specific boat model, and nothing else.
Polycarbonate is a type of clear plastic that is unbreakable. If you want windows that can withstand anything short of a bullet, this is the material to go for. It also offers the best visibility, which makes them ideal for windows in the first place. Because what is the purpose of a window if you can’t see out of it anyway? Not to mention, you can also coat it with UV-resistant and scratch-resistant film for added protection.

Coated Or Uncoated?

Windows and windshields are prone to getting scratched. They’re also vulnerable to letting UV rays in, as previously stated. As such, mariners also have the choice to go for either coated or uncoated windows.

Technology is advanced enough now that coated windows are often the best options out there. The fact that these windows are coated means they’re protected from a wide variety of issues. A huge one of which is scratching. Imagine this: how can you enjoy the outside scenery if you have to look through scratches? With the right coating, scratches will never be a problem.

But perhaps the biggest issue with uncoated boat windshields/windows is protection from the sun. When sailing, you’re at the mercy of its rays. UV rays, to be specific. And not only could it damage your skin, but also the windows. In fact, clear plastic surfaces are very much prone to UV ray damage. The sun evaporates the surface’s plasticizers, which makes them brittle. And if the surface becomes brittle, then it can break.

Which One Should You Go For?

Despite all of this information, there’s only one thing certain at the end of the day. It’s your choice! If you own a boat, it is up to you to determine what works well for it and what doesn’t. That also applies to choosing the right aftermarket boat windshields and windows. Consider your needs and wants against cost, durability, and longevity, and you might have just done yourself a favor. It’s really that simple.

Related: Do’s & Don’ts: DIY Replacing Boat Windshields

We Can Help You With Your Custom Boat Windshield Needs !

If you’re still confused about which material for your windshield to pick, we can help you out. Here at Peninsula Glass , we fabricate flat glass boat windshields and have several of the best professionals in the business ready to answer your every query. Talk to us today!

S/V Violet Hour

Sailing adventures in the pacific northwest.

How To: Replace Frameless Acrylic Windows on a Boat with the VHB Tape Method

Now nearing five years into owning our 1984 C&C , we’re finally getting around to replacing the badly weathered acrylic cabin windows. Our windows weren’t leaking (much) – a common reason to replace fixed ports, but were old enough that they were badly crazed and more translucent than transparent. We have frameless windows, also known as surface mounted portlights.

Acrylic plastic doesn’t last forever, and some say as little as 6-10 years is all it takes before you start getting UV damage in the form of spiderwebbing lines (crazing). Since we live aboard, having windows we can see clearly out of is a big livability improvement. How many people can honestly say they live in a home without transparent windows? Most houses have glass, which doesn’t craze like plastic does.

We try to avoid working on cosmetic projects (although this is more than cosmetic, since it allows us to see better), but now that we’ve finished 3 years worth of higher priority refit items (like the rig, rudder , etc), we have the luxury of spending some time on lower priority things. And this is a good one for our current cruising phase because it’s relatively low cost but high in time requirements. And we had lots of time available this past November / December.

New window to right, old one to left (note: the streaking on the old one is because I washed it with a dirty sponge)

Many C&C owners have done this project already, and my methods were for the most part simply copying what others have already done. There’s nothing incredibly hard here, but the details matter. If you rush this job, it’s likely to have a poor result in the end.

Our existing windows were thru-bolted and sealed with some kind of black flexible sealant. For the new windows we switched to a more modern method: the acrylic is adhered to the hull using adhesive 3M VHB tape (VHB stands for Very High Bond) and sealed using Dow Corning 795 industrial silicone.

There are good explanations of this method here:

The YouTube show Boatworks Today
CnC List (C&C owners list)
Sail Magazine: Replacing Fixed Portlights

From what I understand this method is used on many newer production boats such as Beneteau’s. Still, I took me a while to feel comfortable with whether it would be offshore worthy. A window failure at sea can be catastrophic – if you lose a cabin window while waves are breaking over the boat, you might have no easy way to prevent taking on water.

There are some people who will still disagree, but once I understood the VHB properties I was confident it could hold up to offshore stress. VHB tape is used to bond skyscraper windows to buildings. As long as it’s applied correctly, it has very high bonding strength. And the fact that it’s a flexible tape creating a soft mounting surface is actually an important feature.

Thru-bolting acrylic windows makes them weaker – our old windows had cracks around the thru-bolts in several places. Acrylic expands/contracts with temperature changes, and the boat itself flexes slightly when at sea. So a window is more likely to fail due to flexing and cracking than it is to pop out.

Old window with thru-bolting, cracked in bottom corner

This project takes a lot of time, and is not the kind of project to rush or take shortcuts. For us it took at least 40 hours, plus about 10 hours in prep research and communicating with the plastics shop. About 1/4 of the 40 hrs was in filling the 100+ thrubolt holes and chipping off Plexus, which not all boats will have to deal with.

Per Window, approx 8-10 hours:

1-2 hrs: Remove ~30 thru-bolts and pry off old acrylic
1 hr: Test fit new window and mask around hull frame with painter’s tape
1 hr: Apply VHB tape, test fit again and cut off inner acrylic masking paper where the VHB tape will adhere. Scuff that edge with sandpaper and clean with 50/50 IPA/water. Apply silicone around corner of hull inset, then press in new acrylic.
1 hr: Inject and tool silicone into the gap around the new window. Clean-up. Remove acrylic masking paper and marvel at your new view.

Total: 8 hrs/window * 4 windows = 32 hours

Filling and painting ~100 thru-bolt holes: approx 8 hours:

45 minutes per epoxy round * 2 iterations/window * 4 windows = 6 hrs
~2 hrs for painting over epoxy on interior

The epoxying required many iterations because we were doing one window at a time, and because when you inject thickened epoxy into a horizontal hole (a hole in a near-vertical surface), it’s difficult to get the hole completely filled on the first attempt. In some holes it settled and I had to refill on the next round. There may have been better choices for fill material, but epoxy thickened with sandable filler was popular on a few forums I read.

We used the 5952 VHB tape because it’s a high bond strength designed for these applications and it comes in black (some of the other model #’s are red or gray, which wouldn’t look good under the windows). Some caution is advised picking a supplier. Ebay has cheap VHB tape but is not an official 3M distributor. McMaster Carr, Grainger and others are. 3M informed me Amazon is a 3M distributor. I found a number of complaints on Amazon product reviews, but I believe this may have been for Amazon affiliate stores (if it says “Sold by X” or “Sold by X and fulfilled by Amazon”, that’s *not* an Amazon supplied product).

Plastic sheeting – we used 3 mil “clear” plastic sheeting to cover the windows while they were out. It literally said clear on the packaging, but the sheeting was not clear at all – more like opaque. It let light in, but we could not see out through it. If you’re living aboard it might be worth finding actually clear plastic sheeting.

Paint scrapper – rigid style
Paint scrapper – flexible style
Painter’s tape
Fein MultiTool with 80-180 grit sand paper
Dremel with sanding drum

Getting the old windows off wasn’t terribly hard, but cleaning the surface is. First we had to scrape off all the black sealant, and then found a hard, brown epoxy-like material underneath – Plexus, aka methacrylate adhesive (Plexus is the brand name of this structural adhesive). Plexus is evil stuff. It’s quite possibly worse than 5200 in regards to removal. It bonds permanently to the underlying gelcoat or fiberglass. It’s what C&C used originally to bed the windows, and nowadays is no longer a recommended method.

Removing remaining Plexus involved hitting a scraper with a hammer to chip it off, which also pulled off gelcoat at times. You can try sanding it, but it will take a very long time to sand if it has any thickness to it. Luckily, not all of our windows had much Plexus – it appears a former owner already replaced the windows and removed some Plexus.

After removing as much Plexus as possible, I sanded using a Fein Multitool with medium grit sanding triangles, and occasionally used my Dremel sanding drum. The Fein is better for getting a flat, smooth surface along the beveled edge. The Dremel can sometimes create diveted / uneven surfaces, since it uses a round sanding drum, so I only used that in small spots where I had stubborn protruding bits of Plexus.

All Windows At Once or One at a Time?

Since we live on our boat, and would be doing this during the cold, rainy Pacific Northwest winter, a big question was whether to do all 4 windows at once or one at a time (or 2 at a time). Most people do them all at once, to make the project go quicker, but most people aren’t doing this while living aboard in the winter.

We were glad we decided to do them in stages (#1, #2, and #3+4 at the same time). It made the project take 4 weeks instead of two, but we realized having all four windows out at once would make life really difficult and unpleasant. After covering the holes with the “clear” 3-mil plastic sheeting, I found the clear sheeting was more opaque than clear. Especially after doubling it up (for better insulation), it was not possible to see through the sheeting. This means less visibility, and having no windows in your cabin in the winter would be really difficult. Seasonal affective disorder is a real risk here in the winter, when daylight hours are short, sun sometimes non-existent, and opportunities to get outside are reduced.

There are two other downsides to having windows out in the winter that we worried about: cold, and rain. These turned out to be not as bad as expected. Covering the window (with the plastic sheeting plus draping a heavy plastic panel from our old full enclosure) reduced heat loss pretty well, and we kept our two electric heaters running to compensate.

And rain never got in through the sheeting – I monitored to make sure the painter’s tape at the top edge and sides was well adhered, and reinforced with duck tape at the corners when adhesion got reduced. Having a Strataglass panel (full enclosure panel) above the window also greatly reduced rain getting on the plastic sheeting.

To Paint the Back Edge of the Acrylic or Not?

One aspect we did differently from some others online is we didn’t apply black paint to the back edge of the new acrylic, where it overlaps the hull inset. Others recommend this, often with Krylon paint, to ensure that the white hull surface doesn’t show through the tinted acrylic. We figured the black VHB tape would take care of this (and a couple others online did it this way as well).

On the 1st window where we used 1/2” width VHB tape, it didn’t completely cover the white hull. We attempted to fill in the rest with the black 795 sealant, but that was a bit messy and so it doesn’t look perfect. But it’s not too bad. On the next 3 windows we switched to 3/4” VHB tape, which completely covered the visible hull surface and looks great.

1st window inset, with the 1/2″ tape

What’s the Worst Vegetable on a Boat? A Leak!

Stuff going wrong is pretty normal in boating, but usually it’s something going wrong with old equipment, not something brand new we’re putting in. It’s really disheartening to finish a project and find you did something wrong (as with the autopilot mount last year ).

So when I found out our brand new window was leaking, I was pretty upset! As a heavy Seattle mist fell in late November (the kind of drippy, foggy rain that isn’t heavy rain but creeps into the tiniest apertures on a boat), a steady drip appeared inside one corner of our 1st new window.

It was very hard to trace the leak, but as far as I can tell it came from one of two possible sources:

Miniature gaps where the silicone bead had pulled away from the hull or acrylic. These were only a hair’s width thick, but that was probably enough for water to wick in.
Gel coat cracks along the edge of the hull frame. Our 35 year old boat has plenty of small gel coat cracks around the window ports, caused by hull flexing / normal hull stress. In some cases these hair-width spider lines extend under the silicone sealant and may have been wicking water in.

The 1st window, done with 1/2″ VHB tape

One trick I discovered was using compressed air (the kind you get for cleaning computer keyboards) to push air at the exterior of the sealant joint. When I got to imperfect sealant, even though there might be no visible issue, the air would push through and create bubbles in the water sitting behind the gap. I did this with a headlamp, which facilitates seeing through the tinted acrylic.

I eventually fixed the leak with some reapplications of the Dow Corning 795, but for the next 3 windows we followed more stringent processes.

Tooling the Silicone

From that mistake on the first window, we learned that tooling the silicone requires much greater attention to detail than expected. The sealant around the acrylic needs to be perfect to avoid water seeping through. If the silicone pulls away from the edge – either hull or acrylic – water can wick in through the crack.

So on subsequent windows we did additional prep (filling gel coat cracks with epoxy) and made sure to perfectly tool the silicone into the gap. Dow Corning 795 is pretty forgiving, and we were able to work on it just with a bare finger – no soap or liquid – but you can only run over it once or twice. Repeated attempts to make it neat will likely make it worse. However, if an area wasn’t tooled cleanly in the first pass or two, I found I could apply additional silicone on top of the messy area and then re-tool that.

When we pulled the cover paper off our first new window, a stunned look passed over our faces. Natalie and I couldn’t believe the night-and-day difference it made. For years we had been looking through crazed, foggy windows, and the new one was crystal clear.

For comparison, holding the old acrylic in front of the new one

It was almost like the window wasn’t there at all. We could see our neighboring boat in sharp detail, and can only imagine how much better the views are going to be in the beautiful anchorages we visit once we’re back out to full-time cruising (April).

This project took a lot of time, but relatively little money in boat terms, and turned out to be well worth the effort.

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25 thoughts on “ How To: Replace Frameless Acrylic Windows on a Boat with the VHB Tape Method ”

nice project, where did you get your replacement acrylic windows?

Most plastics shops can cut the acrylic, we used Clear Cut Plastics in Ballard, Seattle.

Thanks for sharing your project, i picked up some great information. Question – what thickness were the acrylic windows – ie” 3/8 or 1/4 inch?

They are 3/8″. Thanks, glad this post has been helping other boaters!

Did you use asolvent for the black sealant that was above the Plexus? What solvent is recommended? Some people recommend a 1/8 inch gap betwwen the new acrylic and the window frame. Do you also recommend this gap? The 795 fills this gap and allows for expansion. When placing the window into the VHB tape,what did you use for spacers to ensure the acrylic window was properly spaced into the window frame? I am considering a number of double stacked washers appropriatley spaced along the bottom of the frame. Your blog has been very helpful. Thank you.

We tried some 3M Adhesive Remover I believe and Goo-B-Gone as well as I think alcohol/soapy water mixture and none of them helped a great deal, they just make the sealant softer/wetter which may make it easier to scrape off. But mostly it was a manual scraping job and then finishing touches with a sander (oscillating Fein or Dremel). I would definitely try for a 1/8 inch gap between acrylic and hull frame dimensions. A couple of our windows didn’t quite have that (maybe only 1/16″) and expansion / flexing caused them to leak a bit after 1 yr. We redid them with a slightly bigger gap (by sanding down the acrylic edges that were tight). To place onto the VHB tape we test fit and then ran duck tape strips along the bottom edge. Then folded down the window, injected sealant into corners not covered by tape, removed the tape cover and carefully placed the window keeping the duck tape taut (2 person job). The stacked washers idea sounds good.

Thank you very much for your quick reply. Xylene did soften the black material to help in removal but did run and discolor the gelcoat.

In one of the articles you linked to, it recommends 3M 4991 which is 2.3mm thick, not 3M 5952 which is only 1.1mm thick. I just used the 5952 that you recommended and there is almost no gap unfortunately. I’m going to do the other set with the 4991 and hopefully it gets closer to that 1/8 in. We’ll see what happens in a year I guess!

Yes, that’s a good point – I think the tape thickness depends on the boat and how your window insets are designed. On our C&C, the thinner tape was best because otherwise the windows would’ve protruded out from the coach roof.

The gap that was filled with sealant was a gap around the circumference of the acrylic window – so that gap was mostly determined by the width/height the acrylic is cut to, rather than the tape thickness. But I agree some custom tweaking is needed depending on the particular boat.

How’s it holding up? Do you still recommend this window conversion?

Yes, they held up well and I know other people that have used the same technique.

I have a C&C 115 (2006) that requires window replacement as well. The originals were bronze colored Lexan polycarbonate (I think). We do some offshore racing. Question: acrylic or polycarbonate for replacement? I’ve heard pros and cons of both.

I recall reading some debates on acrylic vs polycarbonate/Lexan… each has pros/cons but acrylic is easier to source from local shops I think. Here’s an article I found which discusses it: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/portlight_replace/page02.htm

Polycarbonate/Lexan is stronger, but strength isn’t really the issue with windows our size. The author saying polycarb/Lexan scratches easier is a big downside for us since it’s already hard avoiding scratches to acrylic.

What color / tint were your new windows? Looks like you used a dark grey?

It was medium gray, “Acyrlite 2064”.

I’ve seen a few videos now, including two from professional shops, showing two variances from your method: Firstly, they said they weren’t just painting the acrylic for visuals but also to protect the 795 from UV exposure (which seems odd as it’s absurdly hardy), and secondly, they applied the tape and sealant to the window rather than the boat itself… seems more like a technique choice.

Thoughts on the UV thing? Have you noted any cracking or shrinkage with the 795?

UV protection might be a good idea (I’ve seen black tape used on other boats, however I don’t know if they used Dow Corning 795 behind that tape). We didn’t have any issues at all with the sealant deteriorating. Dow Corning 795 claims to be “highly resistant to UV” and “virtually unaffected by sunlight, rain, weather.”

I like what you have done. I am planning on replacing the windows on my boat if I break the windows due to removal. My acrylic is in good shape but they used Sikaflex and it has failed in some areas so it could be difficult to get windows out. If you use the VHB tape to leave a 1/8″ gap around the outside of acrylic, can you just fill that gap in after placing windows in place to create seal. Would 1/8 gap be enough to seal window or should I make it 1/4 inch as I have the room.

I think it might be difficult to inject enough sealant into a 1/8″ gap after placing the window on the VHB tape. It can be difficult to position the window precisely and the gap may end up tighter on one side. 1/4″ would make it easier and also give more expansion room (in some cases it’s the sun heating causing expansion which cracks the acrylic and/or breaks sealant seal). It’s a judgment call though, depends on the situation.

3/16 would be better. Fill around with DowSil 795 using a spoon to carefully contour it.

The windows on my yacht are large 40” x 80” and they can grow by as much as 1/2” depending on the temperature range. From my understanding the VHB tape attaches to acrylic and fiberglass. Will the tape have enough give not to detach from either the acrylic or fiberglass due to expansion or contraction of acrylic compared to fiberglass.

Those are very large windows (looks like you have a catamaran) – over 3’x6′ is about twice the size of what I did. So that’s beyond my expertise, you may need to find someone else with similar sized windows that has done this project. The VHB tape is pliable/stretchy and 3M has a technical specs sheet which may say how much expansion it can tolerate. I suspect it would work out but can’t say for sure.

what method did you use to remove the old plexiglass. was heat used?

I don’t recall using heat. That may have been a good idea to soften the sealant. For us paint scrapers and gradual, even leverage was enough.

I saw a 1980 C&C a couple years ago that had custom made frames made to help seal the windows in. It was about a half inch wide, maybe 1/8″ thick, polished and screwed into the hull. Looked great. Not sure of any of the specific design details – actual thickness, screw sizing, was there a gasket… Appeared to be polished stainless steel. Anyone have thoughts on this? Thanks

Replacing your boat's windows

Replacing your boat's windows is crucial for maintaining a safe and comfortable vessel, as old or damaged windows can compromise the structural integrity and create an uncomfortable environment for you and your family.

Replacing Your Boat’s Windows

Sailing the open seas with your family is an incredible experience, but it also requires a well-maintained and safe vessel. One essential aspect of boat maintenance is ensuring that your boat’s windows are in good condition. Over time, windows can become damaged, leaky, or simply outdated, and replacing them can greatly improve your boat’s overall performance and comfort. In this article, we will guide you through the process of replacing your boat’s windows, including the materials and tools you’ll need, the steps to follow, and some helpful tips along the way.

Why replace your boat’s windows, choosing the right materials, tools you’ll need, step-by-step guide to replacing your boat’s windows, tips for a successful window replacement.

There are several reasons why you might consider replacing your boat’s windows:

Leaks : Over time, the seals around your boat’s windows can deteriorate, leading to water leaks. This can cause damage to your boat’s interior and create an uncomfortable environment for you and your family.

Cracks or Damage : Windows can become cracked or damaged due to various factors, such as impact from debris or stress from the boat’s movement. Damaged windows can compromise the structural integrity of your boat and pose a safety risk.

Condensation : If your boat’s windows are not properly sealed, condensation can form between the panes, reducing visibility and potentially leading to mold and mildew growth.

Aesthetics : Replacing old, worn-out windows can greatly improve the appearance of your boat, making it look more modern and well-maintained.

Energy Efficiency : Newer windows often have better insulation properties, which can help to regulate the temperature inside your boat and reduce energy consumption.

When it comes to replacing your boat’s windows, there are several materials to choose from. The most common materials used for boat windows are:

Acrylic (Plexiglass) : Acrylic is a popular choice for boat windows due to its lightweight, durable, and UV-resistant properties. It is also relatively easy to work with and can be cut and shaped to fit your boat’s window openings.

Polycarbonate (Lexan) : Polycarbonate is another popular choice for boat windows, as it is even stronger and more impact-resistant than acrylic. However, it is also more expensive and can be more difficult to work with.

Tempered Glass : Tempered glass is a strong and durable option for boat windows, but it is also heavier and more expensive than acrylic or polycarbonate. Additionally, tempered glass cannot be cut or shaped after it has been tempered, so it must be ordered in the exact size and shape needed for your boat’s windows.

When choosing a material for your boat’s windows, consider factors such as cost, durability, ease of installation, and the overall look you want to achieve.

Before you begin the process of replacing your boat’s windows, gather the following tools and materials:

Measuring tape
Utility knife
Straight edge or ruler
Marker or pencil
Drill and drill bits
Jigsaw or circular saw (for cutting the window material)
Sandpaper or file (for smoothing edges)
Silicone sealant
Masking tape
Clean cloth and rubbing alcohol (for cleaning surfaces)
Screwdriver and screws (if needed for your window installation)

Follow these steps to replace your boat’s windows:

Step 1: Measure and Plan

Before you begin, measure the dimensions of your existing windows and the window openings on your boat. Be sure to measure the thickness of the window material as well. Use these measurements to determine the size and shape of the new windows you will need to order or cut.

Step 2: Remove the Old Windows

Carefully remove the old windows from your boat, taking care not to damage the surrounding surfaces. This may involve unscrewing any fasteners or cutting through old sealant with a utility knife.

Step 3: Clean and Prepare the Window Openings

Once the old windows have been removed, clean the window openings thoroughly. Use a clean cloth and rubbing alcohol to remove any dirt, grease, or old sealant residue. This will ensure a strong bond between the new windows and the boat’s surface.

Step 4: Cut the New Windows

If you are using acrylic or polycarbonate material, you can cut the new windows yourself using a jigsaw or circular saw. Be sure to use a fine-toothed blade designed for cutting plastic materials. Use a straight edge or ruler and a marker to draw the cutting lines on the material, then carefully cut along the lines. Smooth any rough edges with sandpaper or a file.

If you are using tempered glass, you will need to order the windows in the exact size and shape needed for your boat’s window openings.

Step 5: Dry Fit the New Windows

Before applying any sealant, dry fit the new windows in the window openings to ensure they fit properly. Make any necessary adjustments to the window size or shape at this stage.

Step 6: Apply Sealant

Apply a generous bead of silicone sealant around the perimeter of the window opening, ensuring that there are no gaps or voids in the sealant. This will create a watertight seal between the window and the boat’s surface.

Step 7: Install the New Windows

Carefully place the new windows into the window openings, pressing firmly to ensure a good bond with the sealant. Use masking tape to hold the windows in place while the sealant cures, which can take up to 24 hours.

Step 8: Secure the Windows (if necessary)

If your boat’s windows require additional fasteners, such as screws or bolts, install them once the sealant has cured. Be sure to use stainless steel or marine-grade hardware to prevent corrosion.

Take your time and be patient throughout the process. Replacing your boat’s windows can be a challenging project, but the end result will be well worth the effort.
Always wear safety glasses and gloves when working with tools and materials.
If you are unsure about any aspect of the window replacement process, consult a professional or experienced boater for advice.
Regularly inspect your boat’s windows for signs of wear or damage, and address any issues promptly to maintain the safety and integrity of your vessel.

Replacing your boat’s windows is an important aspect of boat maintenance that can greatly improve the performance, comfort, and appearance of your vessel. By following the steps outlined in this guide and using the appropriate materials and tools, you can successfully replace your boat’s windows and continue to enjoy your sailing adventures with your family.

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Boat windshields glass & plexiglas replacement windshields, boat windshields | glass & plexiglas replacement windshields.

The boat windshield replacement options we offer at Flex A Fab are made from the toughest materials and have the highest safety levels in the industry. We offer a number of different styles, including curved boat windshield replacement products, universal boat windshields, and aftermarket windshields.

Our boat windshields hold up against anything you throw at them. They are made from tough, shatterproof materials that can come scratch or abrasion-resistant too. All of our boat windshield replacements look as close to clear glass as possible and are guaranteed to stand the test of time.

from $310.00

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To find out more about our boat windshield replacements, take a look at our inventory below.

Different Boat Windshield Options

Our boat windshields come in different material types, which means you can choose the best style for your needs. We offer a variety of styles too, so you’re guaranteed to find a product that works with us.

Below we have summarized the difference between the two material types we offer to help make your decision a little easier.

Glass Replacement Windshields

Glass is a popular choice for boat windshield replacements, and it is particularly useful for those looking for a curved boat windshield replacement as it can be custom ordered curved.

Many people choose glass for their aftermarket windshields because of their familiarity with it. It is clear, tough, and versatile as a material.

Plexiglas Acrylic Replacement Windshields

Plexiglas is an acrylic plastic that is as transparent as glass and is a popular replacement for it.

As a semi-rigid material, Plexiglas can follow the curves of a boat's contours, making it easy to install. This material choice is also a hardy and durable choice, perfect for the tough environments you will be taking your boat to.

Looking For High-Quality Boat Windshield Replacements? Contact Flex A Fab Today!

Here at Flex A Fab, we are committed to quality, which is why all of our replacement windshields are as close to OEM as possible.

We want to replace your windshields with a product that will stand the test of time, and we have succeeded in this endeavor time and time again.

For more information on the glass and Plexiglas boat windshield replacements that we offer, get in touch today.

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Custom Marine Windows &

Plastics Forming

!! Removable Windows Now Available !!

The development of fiberglass boats has freed the yachtsman of much of the care and maintenance previously required for his yacht. Improvements in the development of marine windows reflect the same advancement. Go industries, founded in 1971 then acquired by Maritech in 2023, is the foremost manufacturer of high-quality, vinyl framed marine windows. With a commitment to offer carefree maintenance, quality, non-corrosive materials and ease of installation, Maritech Industries strives to serve all their customers by producing not only standard, but also custom built marine windows. We are looking for pictures of our windows in your sail or power boat. If you would like them featured on our website, please email them to [email protected] with a brief description of the vessel!

Unique patented design.

Maritech windows are manufactured using a white, high impact weather resistant vinyl plastic frame. Rigid vinyl can withstand most chemicals that are used by a yachtsman on his boat, including paint thinner and acetone. The vinyl frame, when used with plastic panes, will conform easily to curved cabin sides. The most important advantage of all is no corrosion.

EASY TO INSTALL

Installation of maritech windows was designed with the yacht owner in mind. the windows install using the “clamp” method as illustrated in the drawings below. both the outer frame, which holds the pane material, and the inner trim ring come pre-drilled and the necessary stainless fastening screws are provided. after the old windows are removed, and the cabin side is cleaned of all impurities, simply apply a quality sealing compound to the inside of the exterior frame and place the window in the cut-out. the interior trim ring is then screwed in place and the installation is complete..

Four Basic Types

Fixed - Maritech Industries has the capability to manufacture almost any shape or size window. Fixed windows are available with our standard heavy duty frame. The standard frame can have a 1 -1/2", 1- 7/8", 2-1/2", 3", 4" and/or 6" corner radius as well as mitered corners. The heavy duty frame is available with a 2-1/2” or 4-1/2” radius, or with mitered corners.

Sliding -Sliding windows have a number of unique features that are available only with Maritech windows. With plastic pane windows (Lucite S.A.R.), the handle used to slide the window open and closed are glued as well as screwed on to assure that they will not come off. Large drain holes are provided on the outside. Plus a “splash guard” , which is clear plastic strip , is glued on the inside. These two features work together to make Maritech sliding windows one of the most leak-proof windows available. Standard frame sliding windows come in 1-7/8” , 2-1/2" , 3” or 4"radius, and/or mitered corners. Heavy frame sliding windows are available with a 2-1/2” or 4-1/2” radius, or mitered corners.

Custom radiuses are available upon request.

Hinged - Ventilation has always been a problem on most power boats. Maritech Industries has the answer to this in the form of a hinged windshield. Like all Maritech windows, the hinged window can be made to almost any shape or size with the use of our unique vinyl frame. All hinged windows use high quality stainless steel wind-shield adjusters to hold the hinged pane open in any position. When closed, screw down dogs are used to make a water-tight seal.

! NEW RELEASE !

Removeable - We are currently working with USCG to satisfy new egress requirements for inspected vessels. In most cases we are able to make either a sliding, hinged or removable window with latches or tension knobs in place of an existing fixed window! Contact us for more info!

Removable with latch handle

Removable with tension knobs

Choice Of Pane Material

Maritech windows can be made with panes of plexiglass, Lucite S.A.R. (super abrasion resistant), tempered glass, or upon special request, Lexan Margard. All are avail-able in various tint colors as well as clear. One of our design engineers can assist in the pane and thickness choice best for your particular needs.

Many Standard Configurations

Since Maritech windows have been the choice of various manufacturers as standard equipment, we have many production patterns in stock. When requesting a quotation, please give us the boat type and length as well as the “block” dimensions so that we can check your windows against our patterns. Because Maritech Industries makes windows as they are ordered, changing the size of your existing windows can be done at little to no extra cost.

Very friendly and informative , estimate and turn around time were exactly as they said, after sending a template , the two windows i ordered installed effortlessly and fit perfectly, I should also mention pricing was more reasonable than 4 other manufactures i spoke with for same product

Cannot believe anyone has not yelped this business yet. I have an old US Yachts boat. The original window maker went out of business but somehow that business found its way to Mark Plastics. I dealt directly with Mark I had just a small single window but you would have thought I was placing a huge order. Mark spent a ton of time with me on the phone, walked me through what he needed and built me a replacement boat window within a week. Absolutely fabulous and a big shoutout to San Francisco Boat Works for steering me to Mark Plastics.

Mark at Mark Plastics is great! I'm about to place my third order with him, which will be the final batch needed to replace all ports in my old 1976 Islander 36. The new ports were a perfect fit, which was a big relief as I had to lug them on an international flight. Mark's office is low-tech - best to call and leave a message. He always calls back.

Love the new windows and nice to be able to see through the windows now! (old plastic window were crazed and with the sun on them it was like having shades pulled down)! The color tint is perfect! The windows went in easy with just a bit of trimming! The opening galley window sure helps remove the moisture while cooking. Many Thanks for a job well done!! Duane Sheehan

December 2023

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CatalinaOnly.com

Video how to replace your boat windows for catalina sailboats.

Now offering acrylic retrofit windows for Catalina’s 22’s, 25’s, 27’s, 28’s, 30’s, 34’s, 36’s and 42’s with recessed frames (no aluminum frames). These models date from about 1986-1987 and require only the exterior windows. All of our kits are perfect for sailboat upgrades or replacements of existing contemporary installations …. MORE

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Welcome to Waterway Systems

Marine windows, boat windshields, center console windscreens. .

Marine Windows, Boat Windshields, Center Console Windscreens. Custom manufactured for your restoration or new boatbuilding project.

Building quality marine windows for private and commercial fishing vessel, houseboat, specialty barge, ships, and yachts..

Since 1977 Waterway Systems has been engineering and manufacturing the finest window units available.

Fabricated in Florida, shipped USA and Internationally.

Custom Acrylic / Plexiglass Parts. Center Console Windscreens, Dash Panels, Livewell Lids, Flybridge Windscreens, Hatches. CNC Plastic Machining

Waterway Systems

7010 28th ST CT E

Sarasota, FL 34243

941-779-4709

[email protected]

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26-08-2014, 18:29
Boat: Bruce Farr 44	windows on my 44ft as they are very badly craised. I am not sure which material to go for and have been told there are three main options perspex, polycarbonate or strengthened glass. My understanding of the comparison between each material is that perspex is more scratch resistant then polycarbonate but polycarbote is tougher then perspex and won't crase as quickly and glass is great because it doesn't scratch as easily and looks great but isn't as tough as polycarbonate. Does anyone have any opinions on the best cruising window material to use? Thanks Anthony

26-08-2014, 18:46
	Later, Dan

26-08-2014, 19:56
Boat: Currently Shopping, & Heavily in LUST!	made of a couple of types of plastics laminated together & call it good. Such is sometimes done on BIG opening, foredeck hatches on yachts. There are a couple of other factors to consider on what you choose. How are you mounting them, as with some climactic/temperature variations, some of the plastics will expand & enough to break the bond of the sealant/adhesive. Beth Leonard mentions Polycarbonate doing this, & that because of it, they switched to tempered glass. Also, Polycarbonate, & to some degree, both absorb moisture with time, & suffer from UV degradation. Both of which actually can cause quite severe strength losses, so talk to the manufacturers on this. Some of those folks hiding behind "bullet proof" (polycarb) could be in for a rude surprise if anyone takes a copper jacketed, lead cored, poke at them. Seriously. And said info comes from a gent who's a premium expert in the protection field. I think that if you look at a lot of the vessels, you'll see that their standard windows are tempered glass. And that the heavy duty, storm shutters/windows, made out of only get bolted on when they're going to be facing serious heavy . Albeit some of the latter are too. Also, be VERY careful in terms of what you use sealant/adhesive wise for non-glass windows, as some sealants can chemically/molecularly damage the various plastics used in some types of windows & . For things especially with (metal) bolt on rings, butyl tape has really caught on it seems. For me, if it's time to seriously go , & I'm re-doing the ports. I'd go with a heavy duty set of windows bonded in place. And then, on the , above & below the windows, glue on a nice wide, solid strip of G10. To which (clear) storm windows/shutters would be bolted most of the time. Likely some thick Polycarb, possibly with sacrificial, peel off layers of clear "tape", or a thin layer of Acrylic bonded to the outer side of the Polycarb for scratch protection. And when I say sacrificial layers of tape what I mean is almost exactly that. While I haven't researched it, it's common to see car drivers have their pit crew pull off a thin layer of tape off of the visors on their helmet, when they make a stop. It's a quick way for them to get 100% clear vision back in 1/2 sec, as with the old layer which gets tossed goes all the , grime, etc. But sans into the pros & cons of that, or just to go KISS; storm over shutters like I mentioned, of laminated, or bolted together Acrylic & Polycarb. Ah, also do some looking into what to use & what not to as far as cleaners on plastics. I'm going on memory here, but I seem to that Windex & Ammonia products are a no no for Lexan, as it'll soften the material even more than it is to begin with. Possibly even causing a strength loss... do some Googlefu on this.

26-08-2014, 20:19
Boat: Building a Max Cruise 44 hybrid electric cat	- Youtube Vlog -

26-08-2014, 21:04
Boat: Little Harbor 46 (1988)	. I have six fixed windows that go below when the is heeled over. So they have to hold back the ocean. After 26 years the original 1/2" Lexan windows started to leak around the edges although their strength still seemed perfectly fine. In fact I had to abuse them severely to remove them and they never broke. They were very crazed and dull. What had failed was the between the plastic and the cutouts in the . When I took everything apart it was clear that the they used way back then was happy on the but not the plastic. The sealant came off the plastic cleanly and easily, but was still very stuck on the fiberglass. With some from the local Hinckley yard where my Little Harbor was built I found the local location of Piedmont Plastics who were extremely helpful. There are all sorts of choices of polycarbonate, the one used mostly on being Makrolon (their brand name, other companies make competing products). They also have different coating for UV, scratch resistance, etc. The local shop didn't have in stock what I needed but found it elsewhere, put the order together for my cuts and had it delivered to my house in 2 days. I was amazed. Once I had the six rectangular new pieces I had to machine them into ovals to match the old ones. This was dead simple with a router and normal woodworking bit. The plastic was very easy to with. As mentioned previously the key is the adhesives. Luckily the technology has vastly improved over the years. Again with from the yard I found Sikaflex has a broad selection of products and an excellent web site for what to do. They have a specific primer for fiberglass, another one for the polycarbonate, and of course the that goes between. All great stuff and easy to use with very clear instructions and videos. They also have solutions for glass and every other material you may want to glue up it seems. My hull windows are now perfectly clear and leak free. I have to admit to having a bunch of apprehension the first few times we heeled the boat over into some pounding waves but no . I don't give it any thought now. My favorite part of this story is that the yard estimate for this was $6 to 8k! I did it for around $400 in materials and a bunch of hard but fun work. I also have the confidence now to start replacing all my polycarbonate glass next . All my frames are good so just the plastic needs replacing. All this being said your best solution might be tempered glass - which I know nothing about. Good luck. JR

27-08-2014, 02:46
Boat: Building a Max Cruise 44 hybrid electric cat	for the tempered glass. It's the stuff used to hold the huge windows up on skyscrapers. - Youtube Vlog -

27-08-2014, 04:50
Boat: Island Packet 38

27-08-2014, 05:39

Boat: Bristol 47.7

when the boat is heeled over. So they have to hold back the ocean. After 26 years the original 1/2" Lexan windows started to leak around the edges although their strength still seemed perfectly fine. In fact I had to abuse them severely to remove them and they never broke. They were very crazed and dull. What had failed was the sealant between the plastic and the fiberglass cutouts in the hull. When I took everything apart it was clear that the sealant they used way back then was happy on the fiberglass but not the plastic. The sealant came off the plastic cleanly and easily, but was still very stuck on the fiberglass.

With some advice from the local Hinckley yard where my Little Harbor was built I found the local location of Piedmont Plastics who were extremely helpful. There are all sorts of choices of polycarbonate, the one used mostly on being Makrolon (their brand name, other companies make competing products). They also have different coating for UV, scratch resistance, etc. The local shop didn't have in stock what I needed but found it elsewhere, put the order together for my cuts and had it delivered to my house in 2 days. I was amazed.

Once I had the six rectangular new pieces I had to machine them into ovals to match the old ones. This was dead simple with a router and normal woodworking bit. The plastic was very easy to work with.

As mentioned previously the key is the adhesives. Luckily the technology has vastly improved over the years. Again with advice from the yard I found Sikaflex has a broad selection of products and an excellent web site for what to do. They have a specific primer for fiberglass, another one for the polycarbonate, and of course the adhesive that goes between. All great stuff and easy to use with very clear instructions and videos. They also have solutions for glass and every other material you may want to glue up it seems.

My hull windows are now perfectly clear and leak free. I have to admit to having a bunch of apprehension the first few times we heeled the boat over into some pounding waves but no . I don't give it any thought now.

My favorite part of this story is that the yard estimate for this work was $6 to 8k! I did it for around $400 in materials and a bunch of hard but fun work. I also have the confidence now to start replacing all my polycarbonate glass next . All my frames are good so just the plastic needs replacing.

All this being said your best solution might be tempered glass - which I know nothing about.

Good luck.

JR

27-08-2014, 06:51
Boat: Little Harbor 46 (1988)	for coatings/treatments. The abrasion resistance doubled the for example if I remember right. More for UV protection too. That being said my sales guy didn't insist I get the treatments and said most people don't and never come back with problems. I don't know what I'll use when I get to the hatches but Makrolon will be a strong choice. But these get walked on so abrasion resistance is far more important than the hull ports. I also think the sealing of the plastic to metal on the hatches will be easier and cheaper than the critical strength needed for the hull ports. Sent from my using Cruisers Sailing Forum

27-08-2014, 06:58
	with Makrolon. Much clearer than anything else I have seen. Sent from my using Tapatalk HD

27-08-2014, 08:38
Boat: Searunner 40 trimaran, WILDERNESS	. Mine have a fixed inner rim, with a matching outer finish ring. I flame polish the outside edge of the acrylic to eliminate any potential cracking caused by the jigsaw blade, then everything in 3M 4200 UV, cover the exterior rim screw heads and finish with a coat of LPU to the margin of the cabinside.

27-08-2014, 12:07
Boat: Norsea 27	with a soft rag, old diaper, prevents scratches. I'm replacing the fogging tempered glass on all my ports after a test on one port that is doing weel after more than 5 years.

27-08-2014, 12:25
Boat: Cambria 44/46	and readily available. I have it in my and fixed portlight windows. I second the use of dow glass adhesive. My dodger took the impact of a large, metal handle that was flipped out of the main by the jibsheet. It was violently slammed against the glass and bounced off and into the sea. I most like the clarity and longevity. It will never craze or get cloudy. Doing the job once is good. My new hard dodger will be glass. An important point; the edges must be protected (for the heat tempered version) but then that's usually no problem as that is how we mount it. There is a Youtube video of chemically tempered glass on an hydraulic press the bends it 45 degrees with out failure.

27-08-2014, 12:32
Boat: Lippincott 30	. Is anyone familiar with this or have any experience with it?

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Nov 15, 2020

Boat window replacement

Updated: Dec 22, 2020

Polycarbonate boat windshields do not last forever or the best option . If a window is damaged, full of scratches, or almost opaque, it is time to install new Polycarbonate windows. On our website, you will find various materials that are extremely suitable for boat glass replacement, whether you choose good and affordable or extremely durable and inexpensive. In this article, we offer advice on the choice of material and instructions for disassembly and assembly. Every handy do-it-yourselfer can replace polycarbonate boat windshields by following these tips.

Acrylic sheet or polycarbonate?

Two plastics are suitable for boat windshield replacement: . Acrylic sheet is the cheaper of the two while polycarbonate is the best choice if the window must be strong and impact resistant above all else. Bear in mind that with polycarbonate , the tint will be darker with the thicker sheets. Both acrylic sheet and polycarbonate are available in various colors and in sheet thicknesses from 2 to 12 millimeters. Only in the case of tinted polycarbonate will the transparency become less as the sheet thickens. You can request a sample from us to determine the correct shade/material thickness.

Replace boat window frame – disassembly

Normally, boat windows are contained in a rubber window frame. To dismantle the window you have to disassemble the complete window, including the rubber window frame. This requires two pairs of hands: one person bends the rubber frame, while the second person pushes the window out. In the case of older plastic windows, bear in mind that the window can break, which can lead to injuries. Always wear gloves when you push the window out. When the window is disassembled, the rubber window seal can be removed. It is advisable to clean the window frame well in soapy water using a mild household detergent, such as soap. You can make rigid window frames smooth by greasing them with fabric softener. Leave it on overnight and the rubber will become smooth again.

Determine the size of the new boat window and cut it to shape.

The new window has exactly the same dimensions as the old window. Measure the window well, measuring twice to be extra sure. In our website, you fill in the sizes you require and we deliver the window in a rectangular shape. This may mean that you have to saw the rounded shape of the corners yourself, the tips in sawing / cutting polycarbonate blogs give the most important tips for sawing. Stick masking tape over the window foil and draw the cutting line on it. This prevents the window from being damaged during cutting.

Mount boat window frame

Lubricate the rubber window frame with Vaseline on both sides, this allows you to correct the position of the boat window in the frame when the rubber seal is placed in position.. Then apply the window rubber around the new window. Check that the rubber fits well all around and that the corners also fit snugly around the corners of the window.

Then lay a cord in the outer edge of the window seal, the cord should lie tightly in the rubber and the ends should protrude at least 8 inches, preferably in the middle of the top edge. Now place the boat window in the opening, with the bottom first. With two pairs of hands, the window can then be mounted into the aperture. Press the window slightly on the outside and guide the window seal around the rebate. Due to the tight fit, the rubber will eventually become difficult to fold in the rebate. Then pull the cord to bend the lip of the rubber seal outwards and press the boat windshield into place so that it is well bedded into the rebate.

www.justpolycarbonate.com

#polycarbonate #polycarbonatesheet #polycarbonatesheets

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Functions of marine windows, picking the best marine windows materials.

It is common to see boats with marine windows regardless of their size. One of the most common is the porthole or bulls-eye window. This is usually a circular window that is used to allow light to enter the boat. Yacht windows are important especially because they allow light and fresh air into the boat below deck.

With boat windows for sale , anyone who is below deck can see the outside world. When they are closed, the boat windows usually weather tight offering a strong defense against bad weather.

Determining the best boat windows

Any reasonable boater probably knows how important it is to take care of a boat for it to be seaworthy for a long time. It is important to choose the best boat windshields materials for the sailboat windows and this is a choice that boaters need to take very seriously.

Marine windows are created using specialty textiles. The textiles are created in such a way that they can handle all the things that happen on the water. In most cases, the textiles are clear. Knowing the available options helps in the selection process.

Some popular marine windows materials

There are some materials that are more popular in a far as marine boat windows are concerned. Some of the materials include:

Vinyl & polyester composite

This is one of the best materials that you can find for boat windows. It offers great flexibility, especially when it comes to bending on the contours of a boat easily. The fabrics created using this kind of composite are usually capable of remaining tight and they are waterproof. They also happen to be mildew resistant which is an incredible thing for a boat. Different brands offer their own version of this composite and there is a wide variety to choose from.

Pressed and polished coated vinyl

This is another popular choice for marine use on a daily basis. It is easy to roll the material back and this makes it an ideal choice for boat tops, the top brands offer versatile options for this material. There are some versions that are scratch-resistant using special coatings making it very durable.

Polycarbonate

This is made using clear plastic that is semi-rigid. The boat windows are considered to be unbreakable and are available from many high quality boat windows suppliers. This material offers the user more visibility and it is such a clear option compared to other types of plastics. It can also be coated with coatings for UV and scratch resistance to add more protection. This is a great material to use when situations get rugged. The textile is not as soft as vinyl so it is not possible to roll it up if it needs to be stored. It also happens to be a bit pricey.

These are semi-rigid options and they offer great visibility as well. Breaking these marine boat windows is very hard and they are valuable when in rugged marine situations. The fabric is easily scratched compared to others. There is also no way to roll it up if it needs to be stored and the price can be restrictive.

How to choose boat windows for sale

Cheaper or old yacht windows materials need a lot of maintenance even though they are very affordable, such fabrics like polycarbonate also happen to be versatile compared to other options. If you are in a position to maintain them, you should choose a cost-effective solution and enjoy benefits such a rolling the window up.

The kind of choice that you make in as far as material is concerned usually depends on the kinds of activity or needs that you have. By evaluating your needs, you should be able to pick a material that suits you perfectly and one that can handle the kind of things you intend to engage in while out on the water.

The other thing that you should probably note is that the thickness, also called the gauge of the window can have a great effect on flexibility, clarity, and exactly how it looks. The gauge can be anywhere between 12 and 40. These are some of the things you need to check before making the purchase.

Purchasing marine boat windows

When you are selecting the best houseboat windows, it is important to compare the materials cost and how it is related to its durability. There are some that will stay perfect longer compared to others. At times, it may make sense to buy pricier material if it is more durable instead of replacing affordable material every now and then.

You can find new or used boat windows for sale at Harbor Shoppers. We have in stock some of the widest range of windows to choose from. Whether you are looking for yacht windows, used boat windows, round boat windows, boat cabin windows, small boat windows, boat plastic windows or any other types of marine windows, our staff can help you in the decision-making process so that you end up with only the best.

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cabin window replacement material

Thread starter hobie61
Start date Mar 28, 2010
Forums for All Owners
Ask All Sailors

Hi, I am seeking advice for best material to replace cabin windows on my older C&C--Plastic (lexan), tempered glass, or regular glass? I discovered cracks in my cabin windows. The windows are contained in the older style screw on aluminum window frames (25x7). I have removed one window for which I discovered is plastic. In the mean time, I had a local glass shop cut some regular glass for me for replacement. I had inquired about tempering and was quoted $100/ window and they suggested not worth the cost. Beginning to wonder now, as dont want to rebed/replace once on the water. Inquired with Boman and quoted approx $275 with new frame and tempered glass. Seeking your suggestions for best materials for the windows. Thanks for your time and help. Tim

Don't think I would want "Glass" in my boat. Do a search on this site and you will find plenty of answers to your question. Bee

Contact Idasailor....they might be able to make new ones using your old ones as templates.

hobie61 said: Hi, I am seeking advice for best material to replace cabin windows on my older C&C--Plastic (lexan), tempered glass, or regular glass? I discovered cracks in my cabin windows. The windows are contained in the older style screw on aluminum window frames (25x7). I have removed one window for which I discovered is plastic. In the mean time, I had a local glass shop cut some regular glass for me for replacement. I had inquired about tempering and was quoted $100/ window and they suggested not worth the cost. Beginning to wonder now, as dont want to rebed/replace once on the water. Inquired with Boman and quoted approx $275 with new frame and tempered glass. Seeking your suggestions for best materials for the windows. Thanks for your time and help. Tim Click to expand

Hermit Scott

I have a 1979 catalina 30. I didn't like the window configuration. And the windows were old and corroded and were made of tempered glass. Regular glass is a terrible hazzard by the way. I filled all the ports in and I am replacing them with smaller opening ports. This is no joke though. I am aobut 45 or 50 hours into the job and not close to fininshed on the outside. The inside is finished except for paint.

Attachments

IIRC, there are acrylics and polycarbonates specifically formulated for glazing. They are highly scratch and UV resistant. I would ask your local glass and window guys (a shop big enough to have this sort of experience anyway) about these materials. You can cut and fit them yourself with regular woodworking tools, if that's your inclination. Pete

Richard Bryer

I replaced the fixed ports in our H34 with 1/2" acrylic. There is a posting in Modifications describing how I did it.

Barnacle Bill

If you want smoked or tinted windows, you have to find a source that has the tint you want, for starters. Secondly, usually Lexan is used for deck hatches because the material is stronger than acrylic and you need strength where you want to stand on it. But, Lexan is a bit more scratch susceptible than acrylic. Acrylic is more scratch resistant, I think, and since you don't need similar strength properties for a window mounted on the side, I think that is preferred. C&C had a recessed area where the window was installed, in many of their boats and I assume that is the situation you have here. I think they used an epoxy to adhere the window to the fiberglass. If you have the type window that has a frame around it, you can use the same material. If you have the type of window, like a Bomar opening hatch, I would just replace the part instead of trying to fit a window into it.

Thanks for your advice. It is much appreciated.

Barnacle Bill said: If you want smoked or tinted windows, you have to find a source that has the tint you want, for starters. Secondly, usually Lexan is used for deck hatches because the material is stronger than acrylic and you need strength where you want to stand on it. But, Lexan is a bit more scratch susceptible than acrylic. Acrylic is more scratch resistant, I think, and since you don't need similar strength properties for a window mounted on the side, I think that is preferred. C&C had a recessed area where the window was installed, in many of their boats and I assume that is the situation you have here. I think they used an epoxy to adhere the window to the fiberglass. If you have the type window that has a frame around it, you can use the same material. If you have the type of window, like a Bomar opening hatch, I would just replace the part instead of trying to fit a window into it. Click to expand

Barnacle Bill said: Secondly, usually Lexan is used for deck hatches because the material is stronger than acrylic and you need strength where you want to stand on it. Click to expand

I've worked in Stained Glass for years and there is no way I would even consider putting standard window glass in my portholes. That said, acrylics and lexan are relative newcomers to the porthole market. Portholes have been made with glass for years and years. The trick is that they're not made with standard window glass. They were made with very thick glass, up to an inch thick, maybe more. IMO, you could use non-tempered glass in a porthole but you'd probably need something with a thickness of at last 1/4 to 3/8 inch. I have a civil war era porthole on my wall, 10 inch I think, salvaged from the wreck of the ship my great x3 grandfather served on. The glass is at least 3/4 inch thick, if not thicker, and weighs a lot! While it's possible the glass is not original (the ship burned at least once) I think it's unlikely the portholes were tempered glass as it wasn't invented until after the war.

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Boat windows and windshields, hatches, airplane canopies and windows, car windows and windshields.

Bell Plastics can make your boat window! In the past 40 years, we have made thousands of boat windshield. Think your window is to big. We can bend a piece of 2 inch acrylic 96 inches X 240 inches.

We can make this window too.

What do boats, planes, trains and automobiles all have in common?

We’ve made windows and windshields for all of them and much more..

Working from your old damaged windshield or pencil drawing, even when it is on a napkin. If you don’t have either, you can bring us your boat or plane and we will make it from from scratch.

We will cut down your motorcycle windshield or make a new custom motorcycle windshield that is 2 inches bigger than your old one.

Over the years we have made replacement windows for Russian Migs, submarines, wing tip light covers, vintage plane canopies, airplane gun turrets. Replacement car dashes and rear light or turn signal covers. We have made windows for solar cars, 500 dollar cars and for 15,000,000 dollar cars. Plus giant custom dome for show cars.

Is your boat window in kit form?

12 Pieces of broken plastic with 3 pieces missing, we can still make it.

Acrylic windows have hard surfaces and are very ridged. 10 to 15 years outdoors, sometimes people bring us 40 year old acrylic windows to replace.

Polycarbonate windows have a softer surface than acrylic. Regular polycarbonate last 3 to 5 years outdoors.

We don’t have any boat hardware, there is just to much hardware for us to stock.

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Custom and replacement windows

BEFORE the windshield is in 4 pieces.

AFTER 1 piece 3/16 acrylic in frame.

We have made hundreds of replacement windshields & windows.

Most windshield projects take 2 – 3 weeks to complete. Sometimes longer if we have to order special materials.

Unless we have the boat here we only drill holes in flat windows. We will send you all the drill bits needed so you can safely drill hole in your new windows and a piece of scrap material to practice on.

If you want Bell Plastics to remove and replace the window from the frame we will do it but it is a separate charge.

All over the phone or internet estimates are just estimates until we have seen the window/windshield in person.

It is getting very difficult to get some colors of material. If we can’t find a match to your color we will make it from the closes match we can find.

Gray colors tend to hold the color over time. Bronzes tend to change color faster in the sun.

Acrylic last longer in the sun than polycarbonate.

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Email a couple photos of your window. One from the front and one from the side to [email protected]. Be sure to include as much information as possible. Color, thickness, size also include any changes you want made. If you only have 1/2 the pieces please tell us. Or you can call us today for a quote.

Before you send us your windshields

Send Bell Plastics photos of your windows to get an estimate.
Clean your window. This will save you money.
Write your name and phone number on it. This will help you get your windshield back.

When you send us your windshield.

When the windshield is in pieces send as many pieces as you have.
I you have a frame and gasket, send the frame and gasket.
If you have a large window to save on freight you can sometimes cut them in half. Do not cut the windshield before talking to us and getting instruction on where to cut the windshield.
If you have to make a wooden shipping crate, make the crate big enough so we can use it to return the new windshield.

Solar car 1/8 PETG.

Mold for solar car window.

What’s the difference between Acrylic and Polycarbonate?

Our friends over at National Cycle have put together a little video to demonstrate and are kind enough to allow us to share it with you!

Thanks National Cycle!

All phone & email estimates, guesses and quotes are only our best guess made from the information we have at the time. Until we see your window in person no price quoted is binding. After we see your window and we give you a price we will not change the price.

Boat Windows, Hatches & Screens

We manufacture boat windows, hatches, screens, washboards, polypropylene tanks, instrument panels, flybridge screens etc. We understand the importance of a rapid response particularly if the vessel is vulnerable to adverse weather or theft. This is why we can usually operate a fast service on request for replacements.

REPLACEMENT BOAT WINDOWS, HATCHES & SCREENS

We stock many variants of marine grade perspex/plexiglas/polycarbonates etc. Clear, tinted, coloured, patterned, mirrored, solvent resistant and unbreakable materials are all available from stock in a wide range of thicknesses varying from 3mm – 20mm.

Our moulding oven is the largest in the area and enables us to produce curved/shaped screens in excess of 3 metres in length. If you are unable to supply the moulding required, Port Synthetics are able to produce tooling for all mouldings.

Below are some of our custom built marine fabrications, for more infomation about the different services we can provide for the marine industry please contact us via our contact us page.

We are currently offering a free of charge templating service Monday-Thursday 9am to 5pm Friday 9am to 2pm Saturday by appointment 10am-12noon We will take a template of your old window / washboard/ or companion way while you wait! Take them back and secure your pride and joy. Either call us on 02392 269788 or use the link below to book a time.

Replacement Boat Washboard – Before & After

Below you can see an old wooden boat washboard a customer came to us with, and next to it the brand new plastic boat washboard we replaced it with. Lightweight, modern and allowing lots of light inside, this is a great example of the ideal replacement boat washboard – and a very happy customer!

Boat Hatch and Washboard, from the inside and outside

View from inside.

View From Outside

Vandals smashed screen with brick

New screen moulded and refitted

Windows Perspex/acrylic windows are a light and durable alternative to glass. We are able to cut to your specific shapes, from either your existing windows or templates. We can provide drilled & countersunk holes, polish/bevel edges to suit your individual requirements.

Washboards We manufacture 1, 2 & 3 part washboards in Perspex/acrylic, which allows light into your cabin whilst keeping it secure. Using a tint ensures you maintain a level of privacy. Unlike wood, acrylic will not rot or deteriorate.

Hatches Port Synthetics supply new acrylic panels to replace your old crazed/discoloured hatch.

Marine Mirrors New! Synthetic glass, scratch and moisture resistant. 50% lighter than glass, 10 x more impact resistant than glass. No more edge desilvering, easily machined, drilled, jigsawed etc. Cut to shape panels, delivery available. See more info here: https://www.rehau.com/gb-en/fabricators-installers/surfaces/glass-laminate/rauvisio-crystal-mirror

Flybridge Screen Replacement

We specialise in replacement Flybridge screens and fully understand the frustration of being unable to replace your screens through your boat manufacturer.
With over 85 years of knowledge in the marine screen industry we are able to offer you a service second to none!
Our oven forming, tooling and computerised CNC machine routing to shape facilities are ranked among the highest in Europe.

Boat Mirrors - the traditional glass mirror vs our new marine mirrors - see the difference!

If you have any questions about our marine fabrications please contat us at [email protected]

ACRYLIC – Trade names Perspex, Plexiglas, Altuglas etc

Available in

clear 2mm – 50mm
tints 3mm – 15mm

Used mainly for windows, hatches, washboards & screens

10 year warranty
30 times stronger than glass but a fraction of the weight

POLYCARBONATE – Trade names Makrolon, Lexan, Marlon etc

clear 1mm – 12mm
tints 3mm, 4mm, 5mm & 6mm

Used mainly for wrap around speedboat screens (3mm/4mm thick), which are able to be cold bent to suit.

In general we do not recommend the use of polycarbonate in a marine environment as the softer surface scratches much easier than that of acrylic. However, in extreme cases where impact strength is paramount, we can supply this material with an abrasion resistant coating, although this is much more expensive option.

Boat Windows – When to Fit a Replacement Window

Taking care of your boat windows (also known as marine windows) is a great way to avoid having to do the boat windows replacement procedure due to disrepair. Having ports or windows in your boat serves a variety of purposes, they add appeal, light, and can increase the value of your boat. Ports are generally smaller than boat windows, with some windows being as large as those found in a home. Regular repair is also recommended especially if your boat spends a significant amount of time in a salt-water environment as this can damage parts of the boat windows themselves, as well as the surrounding parts.

Essential Maintenance of Your Marine Windows

A ll types of boat windows are going to require maintenance and parts will need to be replaced if they become damaged. For example, seals are an important part of the boat windows and are often overlooked; they are designed to help keep moisture out of the boat by forming a tight seal around the window. Salt air can be damaging to the wood, fabrics, fittings and plastics in a boat. To avoid the type of damage that comes from prolonged exposure it is important to check the ports and boat windows for cracked glass / acrylic panels or damaged seals and fittings.

Do Your Boat windows Have Seals?

M ost boat windows have a seal . In some cases, they will have two, one for between the glass and the window frames and the other for between the frame and the hull of the boat. If there are cracks in either of the seals, the window can be compromised. Even if these cracks do not let in potentially damaging salt air it can cause moisture to build up between the window frame and the hull and can cause mould and mildew to grow. If your boat is wood, it can even cause the wood to rot if there is prolonged exposure.

Keep Them Water Tight

Rubber is one of the common materials that are used to make watertight seals on ports and boat windows. If they are not cared for they can end up drying out and cracking. When this happens, the seals need to be replaced. If a seal has been damaged for an extended period, you may end up needing to replace the entire window. Replacement does not have to be limited to times where you find damage. There are other reasons to consider replacing your boat windows. Boats generally have enclosed cabins, ports and boat windows are one of the easy ways that airflow is provided to cabins.

Reducing Your Costs

Ports and boat windows can be as energy efficient as windows designed for homes. You can purchase windows with double paned or thicker glass, although clear or smoked acrylic panels are often preferred for value and durability. This can help to insulate the cabin from outside changes in temperature. Damage is not the only reason for boat windows to be replaced. Many people consider replacing their marine windows and ports as a way to reduce fuel and energy expenses by insulating the cabin. When your boat windows and ports are in good repair they provide significant benefit to you and your boat. Boat Windows help to protect against outside temperatures, damp creeping in and help to keep the inside protected and provide light and air to the cabin.

In Summary About Boat / Marine Windows

First of all, if you need help, advice or a quote Contact Us Here. Acrylic is a light weight tough material that is often preferred to glass when mariners decide to replace their boat windows. just make sure that you replace your Boat Windows before you develop major problems.

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COMMENTS

Explaining the Different Types of Marine Window Material
Here's a quick look at the most popular marine window materials on the market today: Vinyl and Polyester Composite: An excellent composite material, vinyl and polyester composite fabrics offers the flexibility you need to curve and bend along a boat's contours easily. Fabrics made using this composite stay tight against the frame and ...
Strataglass Crystal Clear Vinyl
We sell 3 types of clear vinyl for boat windows, Strataglass, Crystal Clear 2020 and roll vinyl, at great prices perfect for your boat or marine canvas job. ... Repair Tape; Rings; Shackles; ... Sale Hardware; Sale Finished Products; Window Material. We sell 3 types of clear vinyl window material. Our "roll vinyl" is least expensive but ...
Top Material for Aftermarket Boat Windshields
This is one of the most commonly used materials in marine applications, for reasons that will be explained further. Glass: This is a bit closer to windows in homes that people are more familiar with. It's another popular choice for use on custom boat windshields, mainly due to their versatility. Polycarbonate: This is made from a semi-rigid ...
Window Replacement Installation Advice
5. Cal 33-2 RKYC. May 26, 2023. #1. I'm looking for some advice on installation for new cabin windows. I think I know what I'm doing but wanted a pulse check to avoid any messy and timely rework. Complete: I've removed my old cabin windows (frameless). Cleaned up the old windows to use as templates for the new acrylic.
How To: Replace Frameless Acrylic Windows on a Boat with the VHB Tape
Per Window, approx 8-10 hours: 1-2 hrs: Remove ~30 thru-bolts and pry off old acrylic. 4 hrs: Scrape, sand and prep window frame in hull. Clean with a degreaser (ex, acetone) and then 50/50 isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / water mix. This included about 1 hr/window for epoxy repairs to damaged gel coat.
Replacing Your Boat's Windows
The most common materials used for boat windows are: Acrylic (Plexiglass): Acrylic is a popular choice for boat windows due to its lightweight, durable, and UV-resistant properties. It is also relatively easy to work with and can be cut and shaped to fit your boat's window openings. ... Tips for a Successful Window Replacement. Take your time ...
Boat Windshields Glass & Plexiglas Replacement Windshields
from$420.00. Universal Curved Glass Boat Windshield Repair. 32 reviews. from$310.00. Stratos Plexiglass Acrylic Boat Windshield Repair Replacement. 32 reviews. from$210.00. Princecraft RESORTER Plexiglass Acrylic Boat Windshield Repair. 32 reviews.
Maritech Industries Marine Windows
Go industries, founded in 1971 then acquired by Maritech in 2023, is the foremost manufacturer of high-quality, vinyl framed marine windows. With a commitment to offer carefree maintenance, quality, non-corrosive materials and ease of installation, Maritech Industries strives to serve all their customers by producing not only standard, but also ...
Flat Glass Boat Windshield Replacement
But Motion Windows provides a better window in about half the time: only 7 or 8 weeks after you order them. Talk to us about your boat windshield requirements (360) 944-4446. Boat Windows is the most trusted name for boat windshields. We custom-manufacture boat windshield replacement. Customize your boat windshield today!
Boat Windows Replacement: Key Considerations
The right kind of materials must be used in your boat's window glass. When buying windows, inspect each piece and ask about the materials used. You also have to do your own research on the right materials so you'll have an idea which works best. The right finishing gives your boat's windows the best protection to improve its clarity.
Video: How to replace a Window on your boat
VideoHow to replace your Boat Windows for Catalina Sailboats. Now offering acrylic retrofit windows for Catalina's 22's, 25's, 27's, 28's, 30's, 34's, 36's and 42's with recessed frames (no aluminum frames). These models date from about 1986-1987 and require only the exterior windows. All of our kits are perfect for sailboat ...
Waterway Systems Custom Marine Window Fabrication Boat Windows
Fabricated in Florida, shipped USA and Internationally. Custom Acrylic / Plexiglass Parts. Center Console Windscreens, Dash Panels, Livewell Lids, Flybridge Windscreens, Hatches. CNC Plastic Machining. Waterway Systems has been manufacturing marine windows for over thirty years. Custom new and replacement boat windows for all types of vessels.
Taylor Made® Windshield Glass Solutions
From introducing the first curved-glass windshield to the marine market, to the inventive construction of our sleek, aerodynamically designed glass surfaces — when it comes to boating windshields, framing, and replacement accessories and components, Taylor Made's capabilities are second to none. Leveraging decades of hands-on experience and ...
Which Boat Window Materials?
I'd go with a heavy duty set of Acrylic windows bonded in place. And then, on the cabin, above & below the windows, glue on a nice wide, solid strip of G10. To which (clear) storm windows/shutters would be bolted most of the time. Likely some thick Polycarb, possibly with sacrificial, peel off layers of clear "tape", or a thin layer of Acrylic ...
Boat window replacement with Polycarbonate Sheet
Two plastics are suitable for boat windshield replacement: . Acrylic sheet is the cheaper of the two while polycarbonate is the best choice if the window must be strong and impact resistant above all else. Bear in mind that with polycarbonate, the tint will be darker with the thicker sheets. Both acrylic sheet and polycarbonate are available in ...
Yet another window replacement material debate?
All major hatch, portlight and window manufacturers use Acrylic in offshore / bluewater marine products. Acrylic is more scratch resistant than standard (9034) polycarbonate. Acrylic is significantly more durable when exposed to Ultra Violet radiation (sunlight). Acrylic is less expensive than Polycarbonate.
Marine Windows, Boat Windows
Harbor Shoppers offers Best Boat replacement window, Sailboat Window Online. 1 (800) 484-0367. Register; ... The boat windows are considered to be unbreakable and are available from many high quality boat windows suppliers. This material offers the user more visibility and it is such a clear option compared to other types of plastics. It can ...
Replacement Windows
TO ORDER YOUR CATALINA RETROFIT WINDOWS. CALL: 800.899.3996 | Contact Us | Pricing. How to Order Cruising Concepts accepts orders via email at [email protected] and by phone at 800.899.3996. Please include a detailed description of your vessel. Custom designs can be discussed directly via phone call.
cabin window replacement material
Mar 28, 2010. #1. Hi, I am seeking advice for best material to replace cabin windows on my older C&C--Plastic (lexan), tempered glass, or regular glass? I discovered cracks in my cabin windows. The windows are contained in the older style screw on aluminum window frames (25x7). I have removed one window for which I discovered is plastic.
Boat windows & windshields
Until we see your window in person no price quoted is binding. After we see your window and we give you a price we will not change the price. Bell Plastics makes boat windows replacement hatch covers, windshields for motorcycles, airplanes from acrylic & polycarbonate Hayward, CA 510-784-1111.
Boat Windows & Hatches, Washboards, Marine Mirrors
Our moisture resistant marine mirror. If you have any questions about our marine fabrications please contat us at [email protected]. ACRYLIC - Trade names Perspex, Plexiglas, Altuglas etc. Available in. clear 2mm - 50mm. tints 3mm - 15mm. Used mainly for windows, hatches, washboards & screens. 10 year warranty.
Boat Window Replacement Parts
Boat Windows is a leading source of window replacement parts for boats, including glass, window, screen, and installation parts. Order today!
DIY Boat Window Replacement
Glazing Materials -- Introduction. When replacing boat windows, you can choose from three glazing materials: polycarbonate (Lexan), acrylic (Plexiglas), and tempered glass. The windows on offshore boats vary from between 5/16 inch to 3/8 inch thick. As a point of reference, the large pilot house windows on a Nordhavn 43 are 10mm (about 3/8 inch ...