yamaha 30 sailboat specs

Review of Yamaha 30

Basic specs..

The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.

Unknown keel type

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.00 - 1.10 meter (3.28 - 3.58 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.5 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Yamaha 30 is about 153 kg/cm, alternatively 859 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 153 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 859 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 23m 2 (247 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Yamaha 30 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

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I'm currently boat shopping and am considering a couple of these - anybody have any experience with them? Both of them are later Mark II models and have the engine forward which I kind of like because of the access to the engine and stuffing box. As is my wont, I checked their PHRF ratings and found everything from 165 to 195. Both of those seem extreme, I was expecting around 170. Any info on that end would be appreciated as well.  

I always thought them to a bit odd. Have never heard anything bad about them. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk  

Our first boat was a 1981 Y30 we had for 5 years, until a year ago. I know the owners of several here. We really liked the boat but wanted more space and more protection from the weather in the cockpit so upgraded. The boat sails well, always felt very solid. Some say tippy for a 30ft but I don't have a comparison. Very little prop walk since the prop is far forward of the stern. The long prop shaft has to be well supported, which it is if the original stuffing box is still present. Some have had to add another bearing block after putting in a dripless stuffing box as apparently they don't support the shaft so well. Repacking the stuffing box is trivial as you have lots of room and lots of light. The deck is nice to move around on, lots of room to go forward and places to hold. Always seemed to come home with a new bump or bruise on a shin after a weekend though. Often from a winch when coming or going from the cockpit I think. Rarely noticed it when it happened though. (??) Hard to put a dinghy on the foredeck with the baby stay in place. Many remove it. The boat has lots of room inside and lots of storage. Good size cockpit locker too. Ours had no holding tank when we bought it and I was not happy with any of the solutions I had seen. Ended up putting in a Vacuflush with the tank in the cockpit locker. Really happy with that (except for the cost!). With the engine in the V-berth there is lots of room above the engine but you spend your time draped over it to change the impeller etc. as it is at the front. One advantage is the V-berth is warm in the winter after motoring! Never been a racer so can't comment on the PHRF. Let me know if there is anything else I can tell you.  

KBuckley said: Our first boat was a 1981 Y30 we had for 5 years, until a year ago. I know the owners of several here. We really liked the boat but wanted more space and more protection from the weather in the cockpit so upgraded. The boat sails well, always felt very solid. Some say tippy for a 30ft but I don't have a comparison. Very little prop walk since the prop is far forward of the stern. The long prop shaft has to be well supported, which it is if the original stuffing box is still present. Some have had to add another bearing block after putting in a dripless stuffing box as apparently they don't support the shaft so well. Repacking the stuffing box is trivial as you have lots of room and lots of light. The deck is nice to move around on, lots of room to go forward and places to hold. Always seemed to come home with a new bump or bruise on a shin after a weekend though. Often from a winch when coming or going from the cockpit I think. Rarely noticed it when it happened though. (??) Hard to put a dinghy on the foredeck with the baby stay in place. Many remove it. The boat has lots of room inside and lots of storage. Good size cockpit locker too. Ours had no holding tank when we bought it and I was not happy with any of the solutions I had seen. Ended up putting in a Vacuflush with the tank in the cockpit locker. Really happy with that (except for the cost!). With the engine in the V-berth there is lots of room above the engine but you spend your time draped over it to change the impeller etc. as it is at the front. One advantage is the V-berth is warm in the winter after motoring! Never been a racer so can't comment on the PHRF. Let me know if there is anything else I can tell you. Click to expand...

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Considering buying Yamaha 30-2

• Thread starter DimonOpa
• Start date Jan 31, 2017
• Tags yamaha 30
• Brand-Specific Forums

Hi guys, I am seriously considering buying Yamaha 30 tall rig. It would be my first boat. I'm hoping to be able to do some long distance racing and maybe some beercan racing. I have 8 years of racing experience sailing Sonar 23. Yamaha looks like a sound boat and seem to be perfect for my needs for cruising. My concern is, how competitive is Y30 design? (Having a heavy inboard and a fuel tank in a bow...) I appreciate your input.  

My marina neighbour is a 1982 Yamaha 30 that he bought new and is very pleased with it. She has the same Yanmar YSM12 motor that I have in my CAL. I would not worry about the motor being in the bow, the hull is designed for that. They changed the design in the later 1980s and moved the motor to the traditional rear location. I’m told Yamaha sailboats have a very good reputation for both quality of build and sailing ability. If I was looking for a newer boat, I would have a look at these local boats: http://www.thunderbirdmarine.com/boat-info.php?ID=4400 http://www.thunderbirdmarine.com/boat-info.php?ID=4337 Depending on your size and budget desires it may be worth while to look at this one: http://www.thunderbirdmarine.com/boat-info.php?ID=4426 Remember that the cost of ownership goes up exponentially with the length. i.e. Marina moorage, maintenance, sails, hardware, insurance, etc.  

palacegrand

I have a Yamaha 30 Tall Rig, in Sidney at Westport. The fellow I bought it from in Seattle used to race it and I understand it did fine. But me, I don't race so I don't really know how well it does beer canning. I mostly single hand daysail & cruise, though the girlfriend will come along when her schedule allows. The boat is very well built, solid and well thought out. Original gear seems top notch. Engine in the bow, and while I thought it was too small (12hp) it is actually more than sufficient. Satori single hands very well, is very comfortable and will move along well. Doesn't feel like it points quite as tightly as my old Ranger 28, but then few will. I find the tall rig handy for a lot of the summer/fall quiet days, but for winter & spring sailing I'll reef early to keep her a bit flatter. She seems to slow if overly heeled, but I've often sailed with main 2nd reef and jib to 1/3 in 15+knots and still do an easy 6/7 knots. For cruising it's a dream. There's a lot of room inside, nice headroom, and a decent galley (though I'll add a cooler for longer trips). I added a Newport propane furnace which does a nice job (and quick) for cooler weather cruising. The V-berth is ... a tad short for two, but my girlfriend is a real "snuggle then stretch out" so I can find myself cramped. The large quarter berth can sleep two, or nice size for a single. I patched together a setup between the two settees that allows us more room sleeping across the saloon. I kinda wish I had the 33 for even a bit more space, but I don't actually know if the V berth is any longer. One downside for me: I'd like to have a dodger for winter but the boom is a bit low and the traveller is in the way of making a good sized one work. Though I have seen them on a couple of Yam's. How's that for some starting info?  

We used to have a Yamaha 30 Mk II with the engine under the cockpit. Well built boat and the boat we moved up to after owning a San Juan 24 for 17 years. The light air performance was no-where as good as the San Juan 24 and the motor in the stern model had more weather helm than the San Juan 24. WE hit a log in English Bay in Vancouver in The Yamaha 30 and I hauled the boat and there was only paint damage. I suspect the keel would have ripped off hitting the same log in our old San Juan 24. I remember it was a bit of a problem getting the 8 lb "fat boy" propane tanks needed for the propane locker so make sure these are still available. Don't worry about the foot rails on the cockpit seats, they are comfortable. We now have a Yamaha 33 tall rig with lead keel and motor in the stern. New motor. Keep that in mind when you buy and get a mechanical inspection.  

kampuniform

Jalepeno said: My marina neighbour is a 1982 Yamaha 30 that he bought new and is very pleased with it. She has the same Yanmar YSM12 motor that I have in my CAL. I would not worry about the motor being in the bow, the hull is designed for that. They changed the design in the later 1980s and moved the motor to the traditional rear location. I’m told Yamaha sailboats have a very good reputation for both quality of build and sailing ability. If I was looking for a newer boat, I would have a look at these local boats: http://www.thunderbirdmarine.com/boat-info.php?ID=4400 http://www.thunderbirdmarine.com/boat-info.php?ID=4337 Click to expand

It will probably cost a $1000 to put AC on the Yamaha 33 talked about above. By the time you purchase the panel, tinned copper wire, shore power outlet, shore power cable and maybe an ELCI and a couple of enclosures you're up there. There was no AC in our Yamaha 33 when we bought her so we put AC in. Probably worth considering replacing the AC system on any boat more than 30 years old (depending of course on the specific condition).  

Captain Crunch

I went from a Sonnic 23 to my 84 Yamaha 30. Sailed it for years with my family. I raced her, cruised her. She is fast and points very high a great racer!! We lost her in a storm due to a dock cleat failure. We (my family) are heart broken!!! I had a brand new UK Genoa racing sail made for her which I didn't get until the end of the season. I used it twice. If you find a 30 and you are in need of an amazing performance sail let me know. Good luck in your search- Ken Hart  

If there is anyone out there looking to buy a great turnkey Yamaha 30 with many recent updgrades, $25,500 CDN in British Columbia near Campbell River! -Quadraite  

If it's the one I'm thinking of, I think people are being put off by that massive stainless arch. I was put off by the arch and the new cabin heater ( prefer propane/no through deck chimney).  

Hey OP, I've got a Yamaha 30 1981, Engine in the bow. Great boat for me so far. It rode through Hurricane Matthew recently, the dock it was attached to broke. Had some decent damage to the bow, but considering what happened it came out pretty lucky. I learned a little about fiberglass after that!! Anyway, for sailing it can be a little tippy. Its light, so it's often necessary to reef. All in all a fun boat to sail.  

Midnight Sun

Captain Crunch, Do you still have the Genoa? Cheers Craig  

Captain Crunch said: I went from a Sonnic 23 to my 84 Yamaha 30. Sailed it for years with my family. I raced her, cruised her. She is fast and points very high a great racer!! We lost her in a storm due to a dock cleat failure. We (my family) are heart broken!!! I had a brand new UK Genoa racing sail made for her which I didn't get until the end of the season. I used it twice. If you find a 30 and you are in need of an amazing performance sail let me know. Good luck in your search- Ken Hart Click to expand

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Yamaha 30D Outboard Motor Review

Originally published in TrailerBoat #270, June / July 2011.

Back in 1986, Yamaha released the world’s first three-cylinder 30hp two-stroke outboard motor. This followed on from the success of its more powerful three-cylinder engines, starting with the 75hp introduced to Australia in late 1982.

Known as the 30D, Yamaha’s new 496cc 30 had features such as a three-carbie loop-charged powerhead and variable-ratio oil injection, yet at 61kg for the manual-start longshaft version, it was only 17 per cent heavier than the popular twin-cylinder cross-flow 521cc Johnson 30, which weighed 52kg. The Yamaha 30D developed 29.6hp at 5000rpm while the Johnson developed 30.0hp at 5500rpm.

As with the Yamaha 40V released a year earlier, the Yamaha 30D used exhaust gases from one cylinder to scavenge the next, making it far more fuel efficient than a big twin. It also had “Precision Blend” oil injection, where the oil was injected at the reed valves, with a fuel / oil ratio that varied from 80:1 at WOT (wide open throttle) way down to 200:1 when trolling.

The only competition to the Yamaha 30D has been the oil-injected Suzuki three-cylinder DT30C outboard, an innovative engine that idled on two cylinders. However, this engine was discontinued in the Aussie market when Suzuki Australia stopped local distribution of outboards in 1999. Both before and since the Suzuki DT30C, the Yamaha 30D has had the market all to itself.

Unfortunately you’ll only find oil injection in the electric-start version of the 30D (the 30DETOL), which also has power trim and tilt. Manual start versions make do with a fixed 100:1 fuel / oil premix, after the initial 10-hour break-in period on a ratio of 25:1.

Whereas the larger three-cylinder Yamaha engines have cold-start fuel primer systems, the Yamaha 30D has a manual choke. In any case, because of the inherent balance of this engine, it’s remarkably easy to start.

ON THE WATER

Since 1986 I’ve spent a fair amount of time using Yamaha 30D outboard engines. Although they’ve enjoyed modifications and improvements over the years they have remained the benchmark in this class.

I recall one instance where I found myself powered by a 30D aboard a 7m Yamaha 23 workboat — a boat that planed easily with three guys aboard. In another instance, which I’ll detail here, I was on a 4.5m Sea-Al Seaman aluminium dinghy, which was a perfect match for saltwater angling.

After carefully running in the Seaman’s new engine for 10 hours, it was subjected to extensive testing over a three-month period. Particularly impressive was the remarkably low level of vibration exhibited by the engine when trolling at the minimum of 670rpm, although I have to say it was also quiet across the entire rev range, and even at WOT — where the roar of carbie induction often creates quite a racket. Through tight figure-of-eight turns at 4000rpm there was no hint of prop ventilation, despite the Seaman’s long keel. There’s no doubting the fact that Yamaha makes excellent alloy props!

For the performance trials the Seaman was loaded with two adults and fishing tackle, bringing the total displacement to 460kg. Cold starting required a firm two-handed pull, while only one hand was needed when the engine was hot. Only when running on the break-in mix did the engine blow any oil smoke, and even then this only occurred when the engine was cold. The upfront gearshift was easy to use and, providing the anti-ventilation plate remained immersed, power astern was good when operating on shallow-water drive, with no adverse effect on the engine’s cooling system.

The only real operating problem encountered during the loan period was a “flat spot” on transition from the idle jet to the main carbie jets when the throttle was opened quickly. According to owners of this engine I’ve interviewed over the years, this has been a common problem, but it doesn’t occur when the throttle is opened gradually. No amount of tuning seems to resolve the issue, however.

The manual-start Yamaha 30D I borrowed had oil injection, but the 0.9lt undercowl oil tank didn’t take up much space on the powerhead and even with a starter motor fitted, the engine would still be easy to service. Whichever model is chosen, there’s easy access to the spark plugs and carbie / throttle linkages (the 30D has mechanical ignition timing advance).

SERVICING AND MAINTENANCE

Yamaha recommends servicing the 30D every 100 running hours, or annually after the first service at 20 hours.

Since its release the 30D has developed a reputation for reliability and survival in salt water, particularly since Yamaha YDC30 alloy was introduced in the ’90s. It provides saltwater anglers with affordable, reasonably fuel efficient, easily maintained and smooth-running power, and because it’s unlikely that we’ll see outboard exhaust emissions laws introduced in Australia before 2015, the Yamaha 30D should be around for a good while yet.

As of April 2011, a manual longshaft Yamaha 30D has a price of $4385 RRP, while the electric-start version has a price of $6053 RRP. A spare alloy prop is $176, and for recreational usage these engines are covered by a three-year warranty.

YAMAHA 30D PERFORMANCE

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• Sailboat Guide

1981 Yamaha Boats 30

• Description

Seller's Description

Designed by Peter Norlin, this is a production built 1981 Yamaha 30. The vessel is a GRP sailing masthead sloop, with a single unit moulded fiberglass hull, having a raked stem, soft chines, a lead fin keel, and a transom stern. There stainless steel bow and stern rails, and double stainless steel lifelines run around the decks on stainless steel stanchions. The cockpit is partially enclosed in a canvas top dodger with acrylic see through front panels. The well appointed, spacious interior is Burmese Teak and Holly, and it features a 6’3” ceiling height, 10.5’ beam, three single berths and one double v-berth in the bow. She sleeps 4-6 people comfortably. The deck layout is the conventional trunk cabin aft cockpit design. There is a flush hatch over a chain locker on the foredeck. There are four port light openings, two on each cabin side, covered with lengths of acrylic glazing, and there is a hatch above the V-berth. There is a chain locker in the forepeak with deck access followed by a V-berth stateroom with a hinged escape hatch and engine compartment beneath. A plywood partial bulkhead separated the V-berth from the main cabin. The head compartment is to the port, with an opposing hanging locker to the starboard. The saloon features a pilot berth on the port side, a large table amidships and a convertible settee on the starboard side. Aft of the settees, to the starboard side, the galley is located, with a recessed threeburner propane stove with oven, counter space, a sink and icebox access. Opposite, to the port side, a quarter berth is located. The engine compartment is centrally located, just below the V-berth, housing a single cylinder Yanmar YSM 12 diesel engine, providing auxiliary power via reduction gear through a 3/4 bronze shaft, to a two blade bronze propeller. Narrow side decks, enclosed by polyester double life lines on stainless steel stanchions, lead around the cabin to the canvas fully enclosed cockpit, which is spacious with two long settees and a hermetic propane tank storage compartment to port and a larger locker to starboard. A composite

Equipment: Dimensions

Length Overall: 29.42ft Beam: 10.58ft Length at Waterline: 23.58ft

Fresh Water Tank: 1 X (Plastic) Fuel Tank: 1 X (Stainless Steel)

Accommodations

Single Berths: 2 Heads: 1

Engine Make: Yanmar Engine Model: YSM12 Total Power: 10hp Fuel Type: Diesel

Electrical Equipment

Shore Power Inlet

Electronics

Depthsounder Compas VHF

Inside Equipment

Oven Marine Head

Steering Wheel Tiller

Storm Jib Spinnaker Genoa Furling Genoa

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Jeanneau Sun Light 30 Review: A Family Cruiser With Racing Influence

• David Harding
• September 24, 2024

As a light and sprightly coastal cruiser with racing potential and room for the family, the Jeanneau Sun Light 30 has much to offer

Product Overview

Jeanneau sun light 30.

When the big French production builders started launching boats like the Jeanneau Sun Light 30 in the mid-to-late 1980s, they got the British builders worried.

I was working in the sales office of Sadler Yachts at the time. Sadlers, along with other British yards such as Westerly, Moody and Hunter, had always prided themselves on producing rugged, capable cruisers that would look after the crew when the going got tough and that were built to last.

Aesthetics are important to some owners, and the Sun Light is less stark and angular than many more recent designs. Photo: David Harding

Then along came the new wave of family cruisers from across the Channel. They were typically much lighter than the British designs, with beamy, higher-volume hulls and spacious, airy interiors. Many of them sailed nicely in light airs and, importantly, they had room for a heads compartment and double cabin in their broad sterns.

This layout had first been seen on small boats in Jeanneau’s 27ft Fantasia in the early 1980s, and it caught on.

With some exceptions, British builders tended to stick to a more traditional approach in terms of both design and interior layout. For a while at least, the home-grown boats put up a good fight, often finding favour among owners with more offshore experience. When eventually most of their builders disappeared, it wasn’t just because the designs had become dated.

The conventional interior layout with its teak trim incorporates good handholds and stowage. Photo: David Harding

Whatever the reasons for the decline of the sailing-yacht industry in the UK, there’s no doubt that the French designs found wide appeal. Newcomers in particular often saw no point in buying a relatively narrow, heavy boat with a deeper, darker and smaller interior if they could have a boat that was lighter, brighter, cheaper and roomier – especially if it also sailed well in the sort of conditions they would want to go out in.

Jeanneau Sun Light 30: State of the eighties

One such design to emerge was Jeanneau’s Sun Light 30. She was designed in 1986 by Daniel Andrieu, a designer with an impressive record of race-winners under the IOR (International Offshore Rule). Many builders adapted successful IOR level-rating designs (quarter-tonners, half-tonners etc) by giving them smaller rigs and shallower keels and selling them as production cruisers with a winning pedigree.

Some of these were very successful for builders such as Beneteau and Jeanneau but, while the Sun Light was from a designer with a proven track record in the IOR, she wasn’t simply a de-tuned half-tonner.

New winches and running rigging can make a big difference to the ease of handling on an older boat. Photo: David Harding

Her racing influence was evident in her weight of just 6,800lb (3,100kg). Her rig was also of typical IOR proportions, with a large fore-triangle, overlapping headsails and a relatively small, high aspect-ratio mainsail. On the other hand, she had a more sensible keel than many IOR designs: essentially a parallelogram with a radius to the trailing edge and a slight swelling at the tip.

A further cruising ‘concession’ was a partial skeg in front of the rudder. With her generous beam and a broad stern by the standards of the day, the Sun Light was a prime example of the new generation of light, roomy and nippy cruiser/racers. Not surprisingly, she proved popular.

Article continues below…

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When she was launched in 2003, the Sadler 290 was probably the roomiest and most powerful 29ft twin-keeler ever built…

Jeanneau Sun 2500 review

Size is often an overrated feature in a boat. Bigger can be better in some instances but, to my mind,…

Looking to an upgrade

And, nearly 30 years later, she appealed to Paul Dale when he was looking for a 30-footer as a move up from his 24ft Fox Hound. At the time, Paul’s other boat was a Dufour 41 that he had sailed across to the Caribbean and kept (and raced) in Grenada. He and his wife wanted a small boat to keep on their mooring in Chichester for local sailing. The limitations of the Fox Hound’s size, however, meant that they started looking for something bigger after a couple of years, and 30ft (9m) seemed about the right length.

Paul had experience in boats both bigger and smaller, including his first boat (a Halcyon 27), a Contest 33, a Sigma 362 that he had raced extensively in RORC and JOG events, the Dufour, which he bought after the Sigma as a bigger and more comfortable boat for the ARC, and the Fox Hound.

A lifelong cruising and racing sailor, Paul Dale has owned boats from a Foxhound 24 to a Dufour 41. Photo: David Harding

‘We wanted our replacement for the Fox Hound to be capable of going across to Brittany or Normandy and living on for a week or two,’ said Paul, ‘so we bought this as a temporary measure. Then we sold the Dufour and thought we would put the money into something a bit more fancy.’

That was the initial plan, but what to buy? The reasoning behind the purchase and subsequent refurbishment of the Jeanneau Sun Light 30– and then the decision to keep it instead of buying a new boat – will be covered in an article by Paul in an upcoming issue as it is a good lesson in why an old boat can be as good as a new one. Suffice it to say that he saw nothing new of similar size that appealed, in terms of aesthetics (an important consideration) or functionality.

A friend bought a new 30-footer that, in races, Paul’s Jeanneau Sun Light 30 sailed straight past. Signs that the joinery on his friend’s new boat might not be set to last particularly well were a further consideration, so he decided to stick with what he had.

Boarding gates are a useful addition, rarely seen on boats of this size and age. Photo: David Harding

Old and good

Having now sailed Alexia for 10 years, Paul is more than happy with his decision not to change. But what is it about this design, now approaching 40 years old, that makes it so practical and versatile? I joined him on what eventually turned into a bright and breezy day to find out.

The mainsheet runs across a track on the aft end of the bridgedeck. Photo: David Harding

Alexia had been brought in from the mooring and was waiting alongside the Itchenor pontoon when I arrived, so there was no need to use the sugar-scoop to climb aboard over the stern. New boats typically have hinge-down transom platforms instead of sugar-scoops, to minimise ‘wasted’ hull length, but they only allow easier stern-boarding – whether from a dinghy or from the water – if lowered in advance. A sugar-scoop is there all the time. For convenience and safety, that has to be a significant plus.

For climbing aboard via the topsides, Paul fitted boarding gates between the stanchions. When the Jeanneau Sun Light 30 was new, she was sometimes criticised for having a deck that flexed in way of the stanchion feet – partly a result of her light weight – but the new feet for the gates felt pretty firm.

Wide, well-angled coamings make a very comfortable perch for the helmsman. Photo: David Harding

Punching the tide down the harbour was made easy by the new 20hp Yanmar 3YM, which gave us a comfortable 5 knots over the ground and 6 knots or more through the water. As we went, Paul explained that the boat was in heavy-displacement mode, carrying 200 litres of water and 90 litres of fuel ready for an imminent cruise to France. He fitted extra tanks, roughly doubling the standard capacity, for spending longer aboard. He accepts that the substantial increase in displacement inevitably slows down a boat that’s so light by design.

Performance features

Helping Alexia’s performance were features that you don’t always find on boats of this size and age, such as the Featherstream prop (‘a great buy’) and new (double-taffeta) laminate sails by North. Many 40-year-old boats have hardware well past its prime that makes for inefficient sail-handling, whereas Paul fitted new Lewmar self-tailing winches and Dyneema running rigging.

Generous beam creates plenty of space around the galley and chart table. Photo: David Harding

When we set sail off West Pole and I hopped into the RIB to take the photos, a south-westerly of 16-18 knots prompted Paul to start with one slab in the main. The wind soon decreased, and had dropped so much by the time I got back aboard that we had to shake out the reef. As we did so, I suggested that it might provoke the wind into returning.

About two minutes later, we saw a band of fresh-looking breeze filling in from about 30° to the left of its original direction. When it reached us, we found it was a mean of 20 knots gusting to over 23, and we were set up for 12-15 knots in terms of halyard tension, outhaul and all the other settings, quite apart from simply carrying too much sail.

Since time was against us and it would have taken more than a few minutes to adjust everything, I had a good opportunity to see how the boat behaved when well over-pressed. She handled surprisingly well, letting me feather her into the fresher patches while maintaining enough drive to power through the steep sea. The helm remained nicely balanced and our speed over the ground, with some adverse current, hovered in the mid-to-high 4s. Had we reconfigured everything I’m sure we could have achieved 5 knots even given the sea state and our draught of just 4ft 9in (1.45m). Over 5 knots would seem likely in flat water, especially with the optional deeper fin.

Caps, intermediates, forward lowers and aft lowers are all taken to separate chainplates in the middle of the side decks. Photo: David Harding

Significantly, the boat didn’t feel remotely skittish or on the edge. She had an easy motion and felt far more comfortable than might have been expected, given what we were asking of her. Downwind, she picked up her skirts and surfed readily as we gybed the angles back towards the harbour, frequently clocking over 8 knots. This is undoubtedly a quick, rewarding and responsive boat to sail that, as Paul observes, also sails more upright than many older designs.

A comfortable perch

For die-hard dinghy sailors – even those of us who have covered a few miles offshore – there’s still nowhere better to helm from than a comfortably angled cockpit coaming, with a tiller extension in one hand and the mainsheet within easy reach. That’s what you get with the Sun Light, and it adds to the pleasure of sailing her.

If you ask her to bear away without easing the mainsheet – you shouldn’t, but sometimes you have to – she responds dutifully, the rudder maintaining good grip.

The primary feature of designs from this era that can make them harder to sail is the size of the headsail, in this case combined with forward lowers to add to the fun of tacking. Those new Lewmar self-tailers definitely earn their keep.

A nav station with a well-sized chart table and space for instruments. Photo: David Harding

Then, when the breeze kicks in, you have to suffer the compromise of a rolled headsail whereas, with a newer design, you would de-power the mainsail and perhaps twist out the headsail slightly – all much easier to do. That’s one of the few compromises often seen in boats influenced by the IOR.

Although Alexia took the moderately brisk conditions of the day in her stride, Paul knows where the limits lie – for the boat and for him. ‘She’s far too light to be a serious offshore boat, because you get thrown about so much in a seaway. But with better forecasts, it’s not as though you have to endure ghastly weather these days.

For a Channel crossing going to windward, I would set out in a Force 3, maximum 4. If it’s a reach I will go up to Force 5, and if it’s a run or on the quarter I’ll go in a 6.’ When you’ve got wherever you’re going, the Sun Light offers good comfort and plenty of space below decks. Some of the woodwork has been replaced and much of it refurbished following Paul’s purchase.

Leech reefing pennants and the outhaul are handled by a winch on the mastLeech reefing pennants and the outhaul are handled by a winch on the mast. Photo: David Harding

The layout is conventional for the time, with the galley to port forward of the aft cabin, and the heads abaft the chart table to starboard. That’s unless you have the alternative layout with a linear galley to port opposite a dinette. The chart table– rarely seen on modern boats of this size – is another feature that Paul values, for use as a desk or just somewhere to sit and relax with a book. He considers the slightly smaller heads to be a worthwhile trade-off.

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Alexia is an example of how a 40-year-old boat can still be a fast, roomy, versatile and easy-to-handle cruiser if you choose the right design and, as Paul puts it, ‘if you’re prepared to spend the money and not put up with horrible old kit’. He acknowledges that he has spent more than he would ever see back if he were to sell – which he has no intention of doing – but he has got the boat he wants, for much less than the price of a new one. As ever with a boat, the important thing is to choose it according to the sort of sailing you have in mind. This owner knows what he likes and he knows what the boat likes. They get on together very well indeed.