diy sailboat bowsprit

Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Adding a bowsprit to your boat

• Rupert Holmes
• July 7, 2023

Nearly every new boat has a bowsprit, but what about older yachts? Rupert Holmes looks at what is available on the market for owners of older vessels

A custom made stainless steel sprit may cost around £2,000 for a 35ft boat and can be made so that it doesn’t add to clutter on the foredeck. Credit: Rupert Holmes Credit: Rupert Holmes

The performance benefits of today’s reaching sails in light airs , together with their ease of handling, are so beneficial that almost every new sailing yacht has a bowsprit from which efficient asymmetric spinnakers and Code 0s can be flown.

At the same time, more and more older boats are sprouting sprits for the same reasons.

Some of these are propriety units, with prices starting at around £700, while others are custom-made, costing around £1,500 to £2,000 for stainless steel sprits suitable for a 35ft boat, but double that or more for carbon fibre.

On the other hand, many others are home-made, using materials as diverse as short lengths of scaffold pole to salvaged sections of broken windsurfer masts.

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In all cases the first step is to decide whether it will be used only for nylon spinnakers without furling gear.

This is because sails with furling gear, especially Code 0s, have much higher luff loads.

This means the whole set up needs to be much stronger and a bobstay from the end of the sprit to the bow of the boat near the waterline may be needed to counter the vertical forces involved.

A sprit used for a Code 0 will also be subject to greater compression load, so will need to be stronger and in a few cases may also require side stays.

A second decision point is whether a fixed sprit is acceptable, or whether you need one that can be retracted – to avoid incurring additional mooring fees, for instance.

The third is whether or not anchor handling will be affected.

The best sprits on new boats have excellent integrated anchor rollers and stowage, but this can be harder to achieve in a retrofitted arrangement, unless it’s one that sits on deck.

Bowsprits on the market

Seldén bowsprit

Seldén’s four aluminium and five carbon deck-mounted sprits are popular and easy to fit.

They can be used with nylon sails on boats from 1.5 tonnes displacement up to 26 tonnes.

They’re also rated for use with a Code 0 on smaller boats up to 6.7 tonnes loaded displacement (aluminium version) or 9.3 tonnes (carbon).

This style of sprit is easy to retract or remove to be stowed elsewhere, but the fittings will still clutter the foredeck.

Prices: from around £700 to £2,500 Contact: seldenmast.com

Facnor bowsprit

Facnor produces a range of four aluminium sprits for boats from 25-57ft that can be used with asymmetric spinnakers from less than 60m2 up to 150m2 and, Code 0s of 37m2 to 105m2, providing a bobstay is fitted in the latter case.

Prices: £700-£1,300 Contact : facnor.com

Trogear bowsprit

Trogear’s neat carbon sprits are typically fixed to the hull, just below deck level at the bow and hinge upwards when not in use.

The six model range suits boats from 25-70ft.

Prices: £1,040 to £3,500 Contact: trogear.com

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How to create a bowsprit for a boat?

When it comes to sailing, a bowsprit can be an incredibly useful tool. It extends the length of your boat, giving you greater sail area and stability. However, many boats don’t come with a bowsprit, so if you’re looking to add one, here’s what you need to know.

1. Choose your bowsprit material

There are a few options to choose from when it comes to the material you use for your bowsprit. Wood is the most traditional, but it requires a fair amount of maintenance to keep it in good condition. Fiberglass and metal are also options to consider, as they require less maintenance but can be more expensive.

2. Determine the length

The length of your bowsprit will depend on the size of your boat and the amount of sail area you wish to add. Generally, a good rule of thumb is to make your bowsprit around 1.5 times the length of your boat.

3. Cut the timber

If you’re using wood for your bowsprit, you’ll need to measure and cut the timber to the correct length. You’ll also want to shape the timber using a saw and sandpaper to achieve the desired shape.

4. Add reinforcement

Once you’ve shaped and sanded your bowsprit, you’ll need to add some reinforcement to ensure it’s sturdy enough to withstand the pressure from the sails. You can add metal plates, brackets or even another layer of timber to the inside of your bowsprit.

5. Install your bowsprit

Finally, it’s time to install your bowsprit. You’ll need to attach it to the bow of your boat using bolts, screws or brackets. Make sure it’s securely fastened, as you don’t want it flying off in heavy winds.

6. Finish off

Once installed, you can finish off your bowsprit with some varnish or paint to protect it from the elements.

Adding a bowsprit to your boat can make a huge difference to your sailing experience. With careful planning and attention to detail, you can create a bespoke bowsprit that will enhance the performance and appearance of your vessel.

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A Guide to Bowsprit Configuration

A bowsprit is now an almost inevitable feature of a racing yacht or performance cruiser and there are also a number of off-the-shelf retrofit options available. The uptake is due in part to the popularity of asymmetric downwind sails which offer ease of handing, particularly when sailing with reduced crew. But even for a predominantly symmetric spinnaker boat, a bowsprit is necessary for flying a code zero or other specialist reaching asymmetric. In this blog we look at how to best setup a bowsprit to suit your sail inventory. 

Don’t yet have a bowsprit? 

If you are looking for a bowsprit for your boat, it’s worth checking whether there are any dedicated options available from the yard. Alternatively, let’s take a quick look at the standardised retrofit options available on the market. These are broadly split into 2 categories: A-frames and single tubes. 

Carbon A-frame from Trogear 

The A-frame sprits from Trogear are lightweight and stiff, making them just as suitable for racing as for cruising. Various mounting options exist, including compatibility with most anchor brackets. The big benefit of these sprits is that they don’t clutter the foredeck. A bobstay is always required.

Trogear bowsprits

Carbon or aluminium single tube 

Single tube sprits such as those from Selden and Facnor are typically much more affordable and can be self-supported without a bobstay. This is achieved by having approx. 50% of the total pole length fixed on the foredeck with the remainder projected forward. As a result, these take up a significant amount of prime foredeck real estate. For high-load reaching sails a bobstay is required.

Facnor and Selden bowsprits

Finally, if you still haven’t found what you need then a custom or semi-custom approach may be the only way. Look for a local yard working in stainless or composites who is able to make you an offer.

Non-furling asymmetrics

Let’s move onto the setup. For a downwind asymmetric without a furler, the tack line is connected directly to the tack of the sail. This is the simplest setup requiring only a single block, ring or friction sheave at the end of the bowsprit. If you want the ability to peel from one asymmetric to another then you will need either a second tackline parallel to the first, or you can use a peeling strop to temporarily fix the tack of the new sail before the tackline is transferred.

Depending on the type of bowsprit, a bobstay may not be necessary for downwind sails. For example, short stainless steel prodders, bowsprits integrated with the anchor bracket, or stiff single tubes like on a J boat typically don’t have a bobstay. 

Furling sails 

Furling downwind asymmetrics and code zeros are also flown from the bowsprit but have slightly different requirements. A good rule for successful furling is to have an attachment point which does not allow the entire furler to rotate. A furler which is clipped onto a single tackline is liable to rotate inadvertently and wrap the furling line up with it. There are a couple of ways to prevent this. One is to attach the furler to a fixed metal padeye on the bowsprit. This simple solution removes the need for an additional tackline running to the cockpit. It does however mean that you will need to be able to reach the attachment point! Facnor offer a fixed furler attachment point which slides in/out along their bowsprits:

Alternatively, use a 2:1 tackline where the dead end of the tackline has some separation from the working part. This separation prevents the furler from twisting once it is under load. The added benefit of a 2:1 tackline is better control of luff tension. 

A reaching sail like a code zero creates a higher load case than a downwind sail and generally needs a bobstay. 

A bit of everything 

If you are cruising then it’s likely that you don’t need the ability to peel from one asymmetric to another. In this case, a fixed padeye for a code zero or a single tackline for a non-furling sail is probably the way to go. 

But if you are racing, then it’s likely that you have a number of non-furling asymmetrics, perhaps a couple of furling sails, and you need the ability to peel from any sail to any other. In terms of bowsprit setup this is absolutely achievable and in fact it’s probable that halyard management becomes the limiting factor in realising your ambitions of peeling away endlessly into the sunset. 

To achieve this versatile setup, we need twin friction rings at the end of a the sprit for twin tacklines. Approx. 10cm aft of this we need an additional soft padeye or loop which will be used to create the 2:1. Both tacklines should have quick release snap shackles. You now have a setup where each tackline can either run directly onto the tack of the sail, or be clipped back onto the soft padeye for a 2:1. With this you can peel in any combination you like. Of course this also requires you being able to reach the soft loop for the 2:1.

Bowsprits Summary 

Adding a bowsprit to your boat allows you to increase the sail inventory and spend more time fast reaching. But it’s worth planning the setup to suit all the sails you intend to use: 

• A single tackline with a shackle is sufficient for a non-furling asymmetric 
• Peeling between asymmetrics requires a peeling strop OR a second tackline 
• Furlers should be clipped to a fixed padeye or 2:1 tackline to avoid twisting 
• Adding a secondary attachment point allows a single tackline to be converted to 2:1 
• Twin tacklines which both have a 2:1 option gives the most versatility 

If you have any questions please feel free to email us at [email protected] , or click the link below to see our full range:

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A Guide to Bowsprit Configuration from upffront.com

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Joel, Barry - I'm not taking digs at the C27, just passing on a concern. There is a serious difference between buying a well engineered kit from the builder and a DIY. I'm also not taking digs at Joel's ability to engineer it out properly and safely. Since the have the kit why DIY? Safety should never be suborned to budget.  

sailingfool

Joel, I personally think you are going in the right direction for improving your off-wind sailing experience. My next boat I plan to do the same, add a sprit with a furling asymetrical. Decent performance off wind is all about sail area, and using a sprit can allow you to fly a asym up to 100% larger than a cruising chute flown off the stem. Yes, a cruising chute is better than a white sail off wind, but quite limited. The furling characteristic makes setting and retrieving practical for shorthanding, and the area provides performance. Go for it. I'd be hesitant to make my own sprit though...  

sailingfool said: Joel, I personally think you are going in the right direction for improving your off-wind sailing experience. My next boat I plan to do the same, add a sprit with a furling asymetrical. Decent performance off wind is all about sail area, and using a sprit can allow you to fly a asym up to 100% larger than a cruising chute flown off the stem. Yes, a cruising chute is better than a white sail off wind, but quite limited. The furling characteristic makes setting and retrieving practical for shorthanding, and the area provides performance. Go for it. I'd be hesitant to make my own sprit though... Click to expand...

jameswilson29

If you were to design your own sprit, a great feature would be an articulating sprit with the sprit pivoting around the stem area and a curved track on the aft, so you could position it to the gunwale on either leeward side when flying the spinnaker, thus gaining additional valuable projection of the pole to windward.  

JonEisberg said: Might be a bit of an apples to oranges comparison we're making here... When you say that you furled an "asymmetric sail", or "gennaker", did you do so with one of the new Top-Down furlers like those from Karver? Or an older Roll-Gen? Because those are the only way to "furl" an asymmetrical spinnaker that I'm aware of... And, those units like the Karver, are VERY expensive... People tend to use the terms "asymmetrical", "gennaker", and "Code 0" interchangeably, but the Code 0 is a very different sail, with a straight luff of high strength that makes it possible to furl in a conventional manner... That can't be done with a spinnaker... The top-down systems were first developed for the big superyachts, where the sheer size and weight of a sock made for difficult handling by the crew... But for the sort of boats most of us sail, I still think a sock is the way to go... The top-down furlers need to be tacked to either the stem, or a sprit, they appear to lack the versatility of being able to fly an asymmetrical spinnaker using a pole, for instance... Never having used one myself, however, I'm not certain about that... Has anyone out there used one? I'd be interested in hearing your take... Click to expand...

chucklesR said: Joel, Barry - I'm not taking digs at the C27, just passing on a concern. I There is a serious difference between buying a well engineered kit from the builder and a DIY. I'm also not taking digs at Joel's ability to engineer it out properly and safely. Since the have the kit why DIY? Safety should never be suborned to budget. Click to expand...

JonEisberg said: I'm curious, what sort of sail are you referring to, precisely? A Code 0? ... Click to expand...

sailingfool said: The sail I have in mind is often referred to as an A1 as in Asymmetric Racing Spinnakers | Doyle Sailmakers . Not having done the math, Ii would think an A1 on a CAt27 with a four four sprit would have 70% or more area than a cruising chute. combined with the convenience of a furler, this area makes the sail more useful in the light to mid winds. In higher winds, the price of sailing with a genoa is not so bad... I agree your cruising chute is providing excellent drive in your photo, and a larger A1 would be dicey, but winds in the high teens to low 20s is not the sweet spot where most sailors are looking for more go anyway. Click to expand...

chucklesR said: Joel, Barry - I'm not taking digs at the C27, just passing on a concern. There is a serious difference between buying a well engineered kit from the builder and a DIY. I'm also not taking digs at Joel's ability to engineer it out properly and safely. Since the have the kit why DIY? Safety should never be suborned to budget. Click to expand...

jameswilson29 said: If you were to design your own sprit, a great feature would be an articulating sprit with the sprit pivoting around the stem area and a curved track on the aft, so you could position it to the gunwale on either leeward side when flying the spinnaker, thus gaining additional valuable projection of the pole to windward. Click to expand...

Joel H. said: Wow, that would be trick. Though on my Cat. 27, if you draw a line parallel to the centerline, between the stem fitting and the foreword pulpit rail stanchion, there isn't a lot of cross-section there. So I don't think I can get much more swing to starboard, presuming I mount it on the port side, than it will take just to get it to intersect the C/L of the boat at a decent projection. That was one reason the teardrop cross-section of the spar, I have, seemed so "ready made". Thanks for the thought James. Next time I'm down at the yard I'll check that possibility out. Cheers for now, Joel H. Click to expand...

peterchech said: A few posters mentioned using the spin pole instead of bothering with a sprit, and that has been mentioned recently on SA as well, but I just don't understand how the tack of the sail is attached to the end of the pole, how the pole is kept from rising up (tweakers? downhaul?), and how it would be jibed. Could someone explain? Click to expand...

peterchech said: Just out of curiosity, what kind of angles can one expect from a typical/basic cruising spinnaker tacked to the bow pulpit on an older boat like the op's? Can they be used for light wind beam reaching or even hotter? Click to expand...

Joel H. said: Originally Posted by jameswilson29 If you were to design your own sprit, a great feature would be an articulating sprit with the sprit pivoting around the stem area and a curved track on the aft, so you could position it to the gunwale on either leeward side when flying the spinnaker, thus gaining additional valuable projection of the pole to windward. Click to expand...

That's an interesting setup, although 3 minutes, 3 trips to the bow, and leaving the pole loose on the deck for one gybe seems a bit messy to me! The douse in the second video is what we call a "letter-box drop", and it is a good way to control the chute and keep it from getting fouled on the way down IF you have a loose footed main. Throwing the halyard overboard to ensure it runs smooth works well. I do it once in a while just to get the twists out, but you have to remember to rinse the salt out of it if you care about your halyards!  

SchockT said: That's an interesting setup, although 3 minutes, 3 trips to the bow, and leaving the pole loose on the deck for one gybe seems a bit messy to me! The douse in the second video is what we call a "letter-box drop", and it is a good way to control the chute and keep it from getting fouled on the way down IF you have a loose footed main. Throwing the halyard overboard to ensure it runs smooth works well. I do it once in a while just to get the twists out, but you have to remember to rinse the salt out of it if you care about your halyards! Click to expand...

I see. So ur basically setting up like u would the symmetrical spinnaker, except you have one extra line, the tack line. (Foregut/after guy is the same as guy and spin sheet, right?) Sort of eliminates the point of a cruising assymetrical though, which is to simplify downwind sailing. By the time I set this up for my cruiser, I might as well just throw up the symmetric and have less complication to deal with! Still, it allows deeper angles for those with asyms so it's cool in that sense. Eliminates the only advantage that symmetrical kites hav on the race course. I haven't seen one flown off a pole yet at the race course, but maybe I just haven't been looking hard enough. maybe I should pretend I invented the technique ;-)  

peterchech said: I see. So ur basically setting up like u would the symmetrical spinnaker, except you have one extra line, the tack line. (Foreguy/after guy is the same as guy and spin sheet, right?) Click to expand...

peterchech said: Sort of eliminates the point of a cruising asymmetrical though, which is to simplify downwind sailing. By the time I set this up for my cruiser, I might as well just throw up the symmetric and have less complication to deal with! Click to expand...

peterchech said: Still, it allows deeper angles for those with asyms so it's cool in that sense. Eliminates the only advantage that symmetrical kites hav on the race course. I haven't seen one flown off a pole yet at the race course, but maybe I just haven't been looking hard enough. maybe I should pretend I invented the technique ;-) Click to expand...

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Extending the Bow: Are Add-on Sprit Kits Worth It?

Bowsprits are back with a vengeance: practical sailor compares the latest aftermarket kits..

Already de rigueur with many performance-oriented sailors, easy-to-handle lightweight sails are gaining popularity with cruisers. And setting a gennaker, asymmetric spinnaker, or a new rendition of an old-fashioned drifter/reacher is easier than ever before. The big question is: Will the cost of a mini-bowsprit actually be worth the effort and expense involved?

After a series of sea trails with sprits, spinnaker socks, and free-luff furlers, weve come to the conclusion that the technology works well, but whether this is a valid investment depends on how important it is to you to keep sailing in light conditions. With fuel prices scraping the stratosphere, efficiency in light wind may be a bigger priority than it was in the past.

In our recent look at furlable code sails, drifters, gennakers, and asymmetric spinnakers (“ A New Twist on Furlers ,” March 2008), we proved that an efficient “no foil” furler made hoisting and dousing a large light-air sail almost a walk in the park. We also were quick to recognize that setting the sail a couple of feet ahead of the stem, on a pole, sprit, or other projection, improved both performance and the sails handling characteristics. With this in mind, we decided to delve deeper into the issue of sail-tack projection, and evaluate the differing approaches to tacking the light-air sail forward of the bow of the boat.

Much of the credit for mainstreaming this renaissance in bowsprits goes to Rod Johnstone, designer of the J-boat line and creator of the metric Js (130, 120, 105, etc.) that hit the water with a built-in, extendable free-standing pole meant to replace traditional spinnaker-handling gear. The new approach simplified foredeck gymnastics and significantly streamlined the chute-handling routine. Even so, cruisers and many racers rightfully balked at the prospect of having a big hole near the bow of their boat and a noticeable proboscis built into the topside. At the same time, shorthanded round-the-world racers were flocking to triple sets of furling headsails with light-air sails the size of circus tents set on an articulating tubular bowsprit.

This approach to sailing efficiency has now launched into the mainstream as Selden, Forespar, Forte, Sparcraft, and others have designed aftermarket kits suitable for a wide range of sailboats. All these kits have one aim: Move the tack point of any light-air sail ahead of the stem. Each design faces similar challenges, specifically the need to handle side loads on a tubular structure and the ability to adapt to a wide range of deck geometry and pre-existing obstacles.

Bowsprit engineering

In order to better understand the forces associated with modern sprit technology, a bounce or two on a playground seesaw offers some insight. On both the seesaw and the bowsprit, the location of the fulcrum and the load applied at one end of the lever arm determines what happens at the other. Its important to note both the strength and the direction of the pull when contemplating the force vectors involved. Like any lever, the longer the stress arm becomes, the more load is imposed on the fulcrum-and the stronger both the bowsprit tube and its support members must be.

Traditional bowsprits incorporated a bobstay and even whisker stays to reduce the bending loads at the fulcrum. Just as rigging turns side loads on a mast into compression loads, a bowsprits bobstay and other wires do much the same. However, many modern mini-sprits actually behave more like a free-standing mast, resisting sail loads through stiffness rather than being kept in column by a bobstay. This requires thicker or higher-modulus materials able to withstand the point load induced at the fulcrum, usually a collar-like fitting mounted on the deck.

Our furler tests revealed that close reaching with a Code 0-type sail (a specialized lightweight sail designed for sailing tighter angles than an ordinary asymmetrical spinnaker) or even the use of a more conventional light No. 1 genoa, tripled and even quadrupled the tack load. In Practical Sailors view, this sort of use mandates the need for a bobstay. Those planning to use the sprit solely for reaching purposes with an asymmetrical spinnaker or gennaker only need a bobstay if they intend to use the rig in heavy air conditions. Most manufacturers set extension length and/or wind speed limits for their sprits.

On some boats, the advantage of a sprit is offset by the amount of clutter it adds to the foredeck. Working around a windlass, bow roller, cleats, and the anchor well can turn an easy installation into a real challenge. Fortunately, these sprits come with versatile hardware kits and installation guidelines that make sense. Theres usually a need to add topping and backing plates, as well as address the concern about spreading the loads.

The installation is best handled by a pro rigger, but a skilled do-it-yourselfer should be able to handle the job. It is critical that the deck core be sealed at any new penetrations, and any new points of stress in the deck or hull are conservatively reinforced to cope with the loads of the sprit kit.

The Forespar Banana Sprit uses a smaller-diameter sprit tube with a thick wall section, and incorporates a downward bias and a bottom gusset to add stiffness. The latest version has been extended at both the inboard and outboard ends. It the features tangs on top and bottom, which makes attaching an endless line furler and a bobstay quite simple.

When using the sprit without a furler option, the Banana Sprit leads the line aft through an optional top mounted block-as opposed to the internal tack line in the Selden sprit (see below). For added reinforcement, the manufacturer offers an optional attachment bracket along with a bobstay chainplate fitting.

Theres an upside and a downside associated with the sprits shorter length: Forward projection is limited, but the units compact size makes it very locker-stowable.

Bottom Line: Though its deck fittings and design are not as elegant as some of the others tested, it will hold favor with those who have limited space at the bow.

Based in Ledyard, Conn., Forte Carbon Fiber Products is a composite spar builder that has gained solid ground with competitive sailors. Its sprit kit package comes with nicely machined saddle-type deck fittings and webbing loops for tack attachment.

Ralph Naranjo

The diameter of carbon sprits tended to be a little larger than the alloy alternative. However, the quality of the composite tubes we looked at met an aerospace standard, and for those with extra cash to spare, the carbon sprit option is worth a second look.

Bottom Line: The weight savings of a carbon fiber sprit is significant, but so is the price increase over aluminum.

Selden makes aluminum and carbon fiber sprits. It offers three different diameter tube sections for its aluminum kits. Each comes complete with end fittings and mounting bracket options. The tack line runs through the sprit, so the outboard end acts as a guide for a tack line. The sprit also has webbing attachment points at the top and bottom.

An owner can choose either a stainless steel mounting bracket designed to fit an anchor roller, or a similar fitting designed for direct deck attachment. The well-thought-out kit includes two inboard end-clips that allow the sprit to simply be retracted and clipped for storage. In cases where an anchor locker lies beneath the sprit, the tube can be easily pulled completely free and set in a second deck ring and inboard end-clip that is set outboard near the rail.

Bottom Line: This kits combination of simple but rugged design and user-friendly installation options moved it to the top of the pack. It gets the Practical Sailor Best Choice pick.

Similar to the Selden sprit, the Sparcraft system Practical Sailor evaluated is an alloy, free-standing sprit featuring a tack line through the center of the tube. The kit contains a stainless-steel mounting ring with a high molecular weight plastic sleeve insert that helps reduce chafe at the tube and the tendency for the tube to crimp. Sparcraft also offers a carbon-fiber version.

Various mounting options are available, including a temporary bobstay attachment and the ability to rig the sprit for the heavier loads imposed by a Code 0 or close-reaching in light air. The pole can be retracted for storage or removed and placed elsewhere.

Bottom Line: This sprit is very similar to the Selden, using a slightly greater tube diameter for equal-sized boats, and costing nearly double what the Selden costs.

Free standing vs. Bobstay Assist

As mentioned before, tack loads create an upward force that can be offset by a bobstay. The wire can be attached to an eye-fitting bolted through the thick solid fiberglass stem at a point well below the headstay chainplate but above the waterline. The bracket or welded tabs on the outboard end of the sprit effectively join the tack and bobstay into a single bow-string that puts compression loads on the arrow-the sprit. Hardware at the inboard end needs to be up to this compression loading. However, with a bobstay attached, some sprits can be used as a tack point for a code sail as well as for off-the-wind reaching with an asymmetric spinnaker.

With a free-standing sprit, the load at the fulcrum collar is upward, and theres a tendency to crimp the sidewall of the tube. At the inboard end of the pole, the force is downward rather than aft because theres much less compression on the sprit. Adding a bobstay causes the upward crimp load at the collar (fulcrum) to lessen, but a new compression component is introduced at the support structure located at the aft end of the pole.

Adding more sail to the pointy end of the boat will improve light-air performance, and the furling systems and sock technology available today make it easier than ever to manage more sail area. But it is tempting to go overboard, and add too much sail area and a too-complex system to handle it.

When all was said and done, our nod of approval went to Selden for its simple, versatile, alloy free-standing sprit, a unit thats intended for gennakers and asymmetric spinnakers. The hardware versatility makes it user-friendly, and its cost-effective price point adds to its appeal.

For those with a tight squeeze on the foredeck, Forespars Banana Sprit offers a recommended alternative. Its projection lengthprovides a sniff of clear air and a convenient tacking point for a gennaker or asymmetrical spinnaker. Forespar, does not recommend using the sprit for Code 0-type sails.

The best solution varies from crew to crew and will depend upon how much you care about performance and how much effort you’re willing to put forth to get that performance. A mini-sprit for an asymmetric or gennaker that slides forward into place and aft for easy storage will have the widest appeal. A more permanent installation with a bobstay adds light-air on-the-wind sailing capability and makes sense for those with reasonably efficient sailboats.

Carbon sprits are pricey, but the tube technology is terrific and the weight savings will probably appeal to those who go to the effort to keep neither chain nor heavy anchors stored at the bow.

• Bowspirit Details
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Add On Bowsprits
• The Perfect Spirit Remains Elusive

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Quick Tip: Bowsprits

• By Cruising World Staff
• Updated: November 10, 2015

With many sailors choosing to refit older cruisers, and the new top of the line cruisers from J/Boats to Euphoria sporting either fixed or retractable sprits, many are asking if a bowsprit is really necessary.

In short: If you plan on using an asymmetrical cruising chute, then yes, a bowsprit will significantly enhance the performance of your a-sail.

Many people are opting for the ease and performance offered by asymmetrical spinnakers to replace the traditional symmetrical spinnakers on their cruising boats. If you are flying an a-sail, a bowsprit will significantly enhance the performance of the sail by reducing the blanket effect of the main. The longer the sprit, the less of an effect your main will have on your chute’s performance. If you’re interested in speed, a bowsprit will also allow you to carry a larger sail. Most importantly though, a bowsprit will make shorthanded sailing much easier. A bowsprit makes maneuvers and sail handling – particularly gybing – significantly easier, a very important factor for small crews.

• More: cruising tips , How To , quick tips , sail handling
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Adding a bowsprit

• Thread starter letlmt
• Start date Nov 21, 2018
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina Capri 22
• Capri 22 Repair & Maintenance

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

Thank you all for your input. I think this project is going to have to be put on the back burner. I do not have the resources to do the work myself and I think the cost of the sprit, top-down furler, and labor from the boat yard would be well over $4,000. Plus I am not sure that I am willing to make such a dramatic change to my new boat, maybe if the boat were used I would have done it.  

Slartibartfass

Capri 22 mod.

letlmt said: Thank you all for your input. I think this project is going to have to be put on the back burner. I do not have the resources to do the work myself and I think the cost of the sprit, top-down furler, and labor from the boat yard would be well over $4,000. Plus I am not sure that I am willing to make such a dramatic change to my new boat, maybe if the boat were used I would have done it. Click to expand

Thats some hard core fabrication work there Nice job!! have you found it stable enough side to side without side stays?  

RussC said: have you found it stable enough side to side without side stays? Click to expand

odj22sailor

letlmt said: I think this project is going to have to be put on the back burner Click to expand

Thanks  

AlastairLC said: Something to plan for in the future maybe. In the meantime you might find a used asymmetrical. Fly it from your bow with a sock. The Sail Warehouse has two packages for your boat at $1000. Good luck! Click to expand

I have an asymmetrical spinnaker with an ATN sock on order with the boat. I was intrigued by the bowsprit because it would hold up the lazy sheet and allow the sail to project more into the wind. Then I found out about the top down furlers which was really interesting because I will be sailing by myself most of the time. However, in the end it all just became too expensive to warrant without proving the spinnaker and sock method to be unworkable. I am also nervous about making such a drastic change to the boat before even taking delivery of it. If it were offered as a factory option, I would have grabbed it in a second.  

Personally I would forget about the lazy sheet thing. With a top down it's actually faster to roll it up, turn, unroll it than to screw around with sheets, main, rudder, and do it without spilling your beer. I got some Marlow line that's a pretty orange and grey colour that weighs absolutely nothing, blew the cordage budget and gets walked around the stick. In zero air, it actually helps the sail stay inflated. Two lengths of it would be the difference between filling the kite or not a lot of the time.  

That is a good point, I should get some super light sheets. I like that  

Trogear has a 15% off sale: https://trogearusa.com/  

I have been experimenting with Selden's GX-7.5 top-down furler and deck-mounted removable bowsprit. The bowsprit works very well. I did need to move the bow cleats back about six inches for clearance and to allow the proper support locations. Other bowsprit configurations I explored would not allow sufficient clearance of the bow pulpit. The other problem I had was that the spinnaker headboard was too stiff and too broad interfering with the top-down furling aspect. I have removed a portion of the headboard but may still have to relocate the spinnaker halyard mast block a few inches higher.  

I installed a Selden Bow Sprit. I added a Bobstay just for insurance.  

Ditto.  

I would agree with a bobstay for a Catalina 30. For a Capri 22, I believe that even the smallest Selden sprit is over-engineered for the loads on a asymmetric spinnaker, and is not needed.  

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