- Rolex Bracelets
Rolex Bracelets Ultimate Guide
The case, dial, and bezel might draw the most attention, but the look of a Rolex watch is not complete without its bracelet or strap. In fact, switching out a strap can completely transform the appearance of a Rolex watch, something that isn't necessarily true for other parts of the watch. While the brand's bracelets contribute to the watch's iconic style, some collectors will learn how to change the Rolex bracelets to leather or rubber straps for a different look. Rolex is renowned for some of the most iconic and recognizable bracelet designs of all time, and their catalog includes several different bracelet styles along with a few strap options. Take a look at our in-depth Rolex bracelet and straps guides for tips on how to wear and adjust your watch to suit your needs.
Rolex takes its straps and bracelets very seriously. It is not an afterthought but rather an integral part of its famous timepieces. For instance, the Rolex Day-Date's famous nickname is the "President" in part because of its bracelet. The other part is because it's the go-to luxury watch of countless political and business leaders.
Speak to any Rolex fan and they’ll tell you how comfortable and well-made most Rolex bracelets and bands are. Additionally, not only does Rolex continuously improve upon the bracelets they already have, but the company also introduces new ones. Rolex unveiled a completely new bracelet, the Oysterflex, a few years ago. Such an important timepiece component deserves some attention, so sit back, strap in, and read our ultimate guide to Rolex bracelets, bands, and straps.
The Rolex Oyster Bracelet
We'll start with the most ubiquitous Rolex band - the Oyster bracelet. It may come as a surprise to learn that the Oyster bracelet has been a staple in the Rolex collection for more than seventy years. Rolex first patented the Oyster bracelet design in 1947 and presented it to the public the following year in 1948. However, it's important to note that the origins of the Oyster bracelet date back to the Bonklip style Rolex bracelets that were outsourced to bracelet manufacturer Gay Frères during the 1930s/1940s.
The links of the Oyster bracelet have always been flat and the links have evolved over the years. There have been riveted links, folded links, and solid links. Over the years, the "rivet" style links would be replaced by a thicker "folded" style, before finally being phased out in favor of solid links, which give the bracelet its modern character. However for many, those hollow links from the early days have a certain charm that pure functionality cannot beat.
Evolution of Oyster Bracelet Links
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6635/6636 | Riveted and expandable links | 19 mm / 20 mm | 1954 |
7205/7206 | Riveted | 19 mm / 20 mm | 1954 |
7835/7836 | Folded | 19 mm / 20 mm | 1967 |
9315 | Folded with Diver Clasp | 20 mm | 1969 |
9316 | Folded with Diver Clasp | 20 mm (Sea-Dweller) | 1969 |
78350/78360 | Solid | 19 mm / 20 mm | 1975 |
93150 | Solid (w/ Diver Clasp) | 20 mm | 1975 |
93160 | Solid (w/ Diver Clasp) | 20 mm | 1978 |
Today, the Oyster bracelet is the most widespread band style found in Rolex’s lineup, available in almost all Rolex collections. It is the bracelet of choice of famous Rolex sports watches like the Submariner and the Daytona, as well as, quintessential dress watches like the Datejust and Oyster Perpetual—and plenty in between. Of course, there are also different sizes of the Oyster bracelet depending on the watch. From the smaller Lady-Datejust timepieces to the larger GMT-Master pilot watches to the jumbo Deepsea dive watches, the versatile Oyster bracelet is always a great fit.
Oyster Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model
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70130 | 13mm | Oyster Perpetual 26 |
70160 | 16mm | Oyster Perpetual 31 |
70190 | 19mm | Oyster Perpetual 34 |
70200 | 20mm | Oyster Perpetual 36 |
70400 | 20mm | Oyster Perpetual 39 |
72130-72131-72133-74138-74139 | 13mm | Lady-Datejust 26 |
72340-72341-72343 | 14mm | Lady-Datejust 28 |
72160-72161-72163 | 16mm | Datejust 31 |
73168 | 16mm | Datejust 31 |
72190 | 19mm | Oyster Perpetual Date 34 |
72600- 72601 – 72603 | 20mm | Datejust 36 |
72801-72803-72800 | 20mm | Datejust 36 |
72210 - 72213 | 21mm | Datejust II |
72610-72611 | 21mm | Datejust 41 |
73205-73208-73209 | 20mm | Day-Date 36 |
73605 | 20mm | Day-Date 36 |
72415-72418-72419-72223-72220 | 21mm | Sky-Dweller |
72400 | 20mm | Milgauss |
77200 | 20mm | Explorer 39 |
77210 | 21mm | Explorer II |
71200 | 20mm | Air-King 40 |
78200-78203-78208-78209-79201-79205 | 20mm | GMT-Master II |
78210-78211-78218-78219 | 21mm | Yacht-Master II |
78590-78593-78595-78596-78598-78599 | 20mm | Cosmograph Daytona |
78740-78743-78750-78753 | 17 mm | Yacht-Master 35 |
78763-78800 | 20mm | Yacht-Master 40 |
97200 | 20mm | Submariner |
97200-97203-97208-97209 | 20mm | Submariner Date |
97400 | 20mm | Sea-Dweller 40 |
97220-97223 | 22mm | Sea-Dweller 43 |
98210 | 21mm | Deepsea |
98220 | 22mm | Deepsea |
In addition to being the most prevalent Rolex band, the Oyster bracelet is also available in every metal Rolex uses. Additionally, there are Oyster bracelets set with diamonds for some ultra-special Rolex jewelry watches. The last number in any Rolex bracelet code denotes the material.
- 0 = Steel and/or 904L Oystersteel
- 1 = Everose Gold & Steel
- 3 = Yellow Gold & Steel
- 5 = Rose Gold
- 6 = Platinum
- 8 = Yellow Gold
- 9 = White Gold
Depending on the model, the Oyster bracelet comes equipped with a range of clasps. Here's a list of the type of Rolex clasp used on current-production Rolex watches with Oyster bracelets. What's the difference between the Oysterclasp and Oysterlock? Aesthetically, the former has the Rolex coronet embossed into the clasp whereas the latter includes the coronet as part of the opening mechanism. Mechanically, the Oysterclasp is constructed with a folding clasp with a cover while the Oysterlock is built with a folding safety clasp, a cover, and a safety catch. The Easylink extension system permits the wearer to extend the bracelet by 5mm while the Glidelock can lengthen the bracelet by 20mm in 2mm intervals. Furthermore, the Fliplock extension links allow the band to be adjusted by an additional 26 mm to fit over thicker diving suits.
Oyster Bracelet Clasp Type
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Oyster Perpetual | Oysterclasp |
Datejust | Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system |
Milgauss | Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system |
Air-King | Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system |
Sky-Dweller | Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system |
GMT-Master II | Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink |
Daytona | Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink |
Yacht-Master | Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink |
Yacht-Master II | Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink |
Explorer I | Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink |
Explorer II | Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink |
Submariner | Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Glidelock |
Sea-Dweller | Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Glidelock and Fliplock |
Deepsea | Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Glidelock and Fliplock |
The Rolex Jubilee Bracelet
Dressier than the Oyster bracelet, the Jubilee bracelet made its debut in 1945 on the then-new Datejust timepiece. Its five-piece links construction includes three thinner interior links flanked by larger links. These two different link sizes are especially noticeable on two-tone Rolesor versions when the interior links are in yellow or Everose gold. It is one of Rolex’s dressier bracelet styles, available in a bevy of metal options and sizes.
While the overall look of the Jubilee bracelet has remained largely the same since its introduction, a closer look at the links reveals some notable modifications over the years. There have been folded links, oval links, D-shaped links, and solid links. Before Rolex became the vertically integrated giant it is today, the company outsourced the manufacturing of certain parts to specialists—standard practice in horology back in the day. Some bracelets were even manufactured in the USA and Mexico and these bracelets had distinct oval-shaped links.
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Swiss-Made Folded Link | 1950s – 1970s |
Made in USA/Mexican Oval Link | 1950s – 1970s |
Swiss-Made D Link | 1970s – 2000s |
Swiss-Made Solid Link | 2000s - Present |
The Jubilee has continued as a mainstay in the Datejust collection however, the current steel versions of the sporty GMT-Master II watch are also paired with the Jubilee bracelet.
Jubilee Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model
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63130-63131-63133 | 13mm | Lady-Datejust 26 |
63345-63348-63341 | 14mm | Lady-Datejust 28 |
63160-63161-63163-64169 | 16mm | Datejust 31 |
63600-63601-63603-63608-62803-62800 | 20mm | Datejust 36 |
62613 | 21mm | Datejust 41 |
69200 | 20mm | GMT-Master II |
The Jubilee bracelet is fitted with a concealed folding Crownclasp, which has a Rolex coronet lever that opens the bracelet to reveal folding blades. The concealment of the clasp allows the intricate pattern of the Jubilee links to run seamlessly around the wrist.
The Rolex President Bracelet
The Rolex President bracelet was first introduced on the inaugural Day-Date watch in 1956. Its signature semi-circular three-piece links are instantly recognizable and highly sought-after. Rolex only ever produces the President bracelet in precious metals—never in steel. There are yellow, white, and rose gold, as well as, platinum versions of the President bracelet. For ultra-lavish versions, there are also some diamond President bracelets available too.
The President bracelet is exclusive to all Day-Date watches—Day-Date 36, Day-Date II, and Day-Date 40—as well as some precious metal Lady-Datejust and Datejust 31 models.
Over the years, Rolex made some noteworthy versions of the President bracelet including the Tridor variety where the center links had a mix of three shades of gold. For a short time in the late 1970s and early 1980s, Rolex also manufactured some President bracelets with bark-like accents on the center links.
President Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model
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83135-83136-83138-83139 | 13mm | Lady-Datejust 26 |
83345-83346-83348 | 14mm | Lady-Datejust 28 |
83165-83168-83169-83369-83368-83365-84166-84168 | 16mm | Datejust 31 |
83205-83206-83208-83209-83408-83405-83409-84206-84208-84209 | 20mm | Day-Date 36 |
83415-83416-83418-83419 | 21mm | Day-Date 40 |
83215-83216-83218-83219 | 21mm | Day-Date II |
Similar to the Jubilee, the famous President bracelets are always fastened with a concealed folding Crownclasp. Again, this allows for the beautifully curvy bracelet links to wrap around one's wrist without interruption from a bulky clasp.
The Rolex Integrated Bracelets
In 1977, Rolex presented a range of Oysterquartz watches that ran on in-house quartz calibers. In addition to the distinct angular case shapes of the Oysterquartz Datejust and Oysterquartz Day-Date watches, another fundamental design element of these unique Rolex quartz watches were their bracelets.
True to the fashion of the era, Oysterquartz watches have integrated bracelets that taper towards the clasp. A truly unforgettable look, these bracelets are really fantastic. But even more clever is how Rolex took its classic bracelet designs—Oyster, Jubilee, and President - and revamped them into the integrated style.
The stainless steel integrated Oyster bracelet, two-tone integrated Jubilee bracelet, and solid gold integrated President bracelet were designed close enough to the original bands to bear the same names, yet modified enough to give the Oysterquartz watches their singular style. Many Oysterquartz bracelet codes are the same number as the reference of the watch.
Oysterquartz Bracelet Codes, Style, and Watch Model
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17010-17000B | Steel Oyster | Oysterquartz Datejust |
17013-17013B | Two-Tone Jubilee | Oysterquartz Datejust |
19018- 19028 | Yellow Gold President | Oysterquartz Day-Date |
19019 | White Gold President | Oysterquartz Day-Date |
Interesting editions of the President integrated bracelet for the Oysterquartz Day-Date watches are those with the intricate pyramid patterns.
The Pearlmaster Bracelet
Rolex launched the Pearlmaster bracelet in 1992 for the Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster watches. The Pearlmaster is Rolex's collection of lavish jewelry watches where diamonds and other gems adorn the dial, bezel, bracelet, or all of the above.
Distinguished by their rounded five-piece links, all Pearlmaster bracelets are exclusively in 18k gold, whether in yellow, white, or Everose. Diamond versions range from a pair of diamond-set links to full diamond pavé styles.
While the Pearlmaster's home is the Pearlmaster watch collection, in the 2000s, Rolex did make some special edition Day-Date "Masterpiece" watches fitted with Pearlmaster bracelets and 39mm cases. This explains why in some circles, the Pearlmaster bracelet is called the Masterpiece bracelet. However, in the official brand catalog, these Masterpiece/Pearlmaster bracelets for the Day-Date were labeled "Oyster Special Edition."
Pearlmaster Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model
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72845-72848-72849 | 17mm | Pearlmaster 34 |
44745-42745-42749 | 20mm | Pearlmaster 39 |
72746 -72748- 72748-74746 | 20mm | Day-Date "Special Edition" Masterpiece |
Securing the Pearlmaster bracelet in place is also the concealed folding Crownclasp.
The Rolex Leather Strap
Though Rolex is most famous for its metal bracelets, the Swiss watchmaking giant certainly has made its fair share of leather straps too. In fact, early Rolex models came with leather straps including vintage Oyster watches. The advent of Rolex tool watches — Explorer, Submariner, Milgauss, and GMT-Master — brought about the dominance of metal bracelets in the Rolex Oyster catalog. On the other hand, as the brand’s more traditional dress watch, Rolex Cellini watches have often had leather straps. All current Cellini watches are fitted with leather straps equipped with tang buckles.
In the early 2000s, Rolex revealed some special white gold Daytona models with colorful dials and even more colorful leather straps. Dubbed the "Daytona Beach" collection, these vibrant chronographs donned pink, turquoise, green, and yellow exotic leather straps.
There is an assortment of modern Rolex watches with leather straps such as the Sky-Dweller, Daytona, Day-Date, and Datejust. The Day-Date 36 with leather is yet another collection of colorful dial and leather combinations, including green, blue, Bordeaux, and chocolate. Completing these leather straps are matching gold folding Crownclasp buckles for easy adjusting and optimal security.
Rolex recently replaced all leather Daytona watches with another style of bracelet, the Oysterflex.
The Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet
The newest Rolex bracelet to join the catalog, the Oysterflex is the brand’s version of a rubber strap. Making its debut on the Everose Yacht-Master in 2015, the Oysterflex may look like an ordinary black rubber strap. But of course, it isn't.
First, Rolex insists on calling it a bracelet rather than a strap. This is because of its unique construction. The proprietary Oysterflex actually begins as a titanium and nickel metal alloy blade. That metal blade is then coated in black elastomer. This clever combination means the Oysterflex is both robust like metal yet flexible like rubber.
Flip the Oysterflex bracelet over and you'll find a patented cushion system that resembles fins. This detail allows for much-needed air circulation to keep the sweatiness typically associated with rubber straps at bay.
When the Oysterflex first launched, it was only available on the Everose Yacht-Master 40 and Everose Yacht-Master 37. The white gold Yacht-Master 42 later followed with an Oysterflex bracelet. The Oysterflex bracelet is now also an option on yellow, white, and Everose gold Daytona models. As previously mentioned, the Oysterflex Daytona watches have replaced the leather Daytona models.
There are three widths for the Oysterflex bracelets and each side of the bracelet comes in six different lengths, which are categorized from letters C to H. Rolex currently only pairs the Oysterflex bracelet with gold versions of the Yacht-Master and Daytona.
Oysterflex Bracelet Codes, Bracelet Wide, and Watch Model
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350501 | 20mm | Yacht-Master 40; Daytona | |
351525 | 21mm | Yacht-Master 42 | |
350557 | 18mm | Yacht-Master 37 | |
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122 mm – 132 mm | C | D | |
132 mm – 140 mm | C | E | |
140 mm – 152 mm | D | E | |
152 mm – 162 mm | D | F | |
162 mm – 173 mm | E | F | |
173 mm – 183 mm | E | G | |
183 mm – 193 mm | F | G | |
193 mm – 204 mm | F | H | |
204 mm – 215 mm | G | H | |
215 mm – 224 mm | H | H | |
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128 mm – 138 mm | C | D | |
138 mm – 150 mm | C | E | |
150 mm – 159 mm | D | E | |
159 mm – 170 mm | D | F | |
170 mm – 180 mm | E | F | |
180 mm – 191 mm | E | G | |
191 mm – 202 mm | F | G | |
202 mm – 213 mm | F | H | |
213 mm – 225 mm | G | H | |
225 mm – 234 mm | H | H |
Finishing off the Oysterflex bracelets are matching gold Oysterlock safety clasps along with the 5mm Easylink extension system. However, the newer Yacht-Master 42 includes the Glidelock on its clasp.
The Iconic Rolex Bracelets
As we've illustrated, the bracelet style is such a significant part of the look and feel of a Rolex watch. It's one thing to have certain watch models that are so famous that they are recognizable just by their model names without the need to mention the brand name. Rolex took it further by applying this same icon-making approach to its collection of bracelets.
Rolex bracelets have their own names, distinct design language, histories, and marketing campaigns. No other luxury brand celebrates the watch bracelet as intensely as Rolex does. Drop the names Oyster, Jubilee, and President, and people who know watches immediately know what these Rolex bracelets look like. Similar to cases and movements, Rolex dedicates an enormous amount of research and development to their bracelets too. And it clearly shows when you put one of them on.
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