Watch Certification Services of America

  • Rolex Bracelets

Rolex Bracelets Ultimate Guide

The case, dial, and bezel might draw the most attention, but the look of a Rolex watch is not complete without its bracelet or strap. In fact, switching out a strap can completely transform the appearance of a Rolex watch, something that isn't necessarily true for other parts of the watch. While the brand's bracelets contribute to the watch's iconic style, some collectors will learn how to change the Rolex bracelets to leather or rubber straps for a different look. Rolex is renowned for some of the most iconic and recognizable bracelet designs of all time, and their catalog includes several different bracelet styles along with a few strap options. Take a look at our in-depth Rolex bracelet and straps guides for tips on how to wear and adjust your watch to suit your needs.

Rolex takes its straps and bracelets very seriously. It is not an afterthought but rather an integral part of its famous timepieces. For instance, the Rolex Day-Date's famous nickname is the "President" in part because of its bracelet. The other part is because it's the go-to luxury watch of countless political and business leaders.

Speak to any Rolex fan and they’ll tell you how comfortable and well-made most Rolex bracelets and bands are. Additionally, not only does Rolex continuously improve upon the bracelets they already have, but the company also introduces new ones. Rolex unveiled a completely new bracelet, the Oysterflex, a few years ago. Such an important timepiece component deserves some attention, so sit back, strap in, and read our ultimate guide to Rolex bracelets, bands, and straps.

The Rolex Oyster Bracelet

We'll start with the most ubiquitous Rolex band - the Oyster bracelet. It may come as a surprise to learn that the Oyster bracelet has been a staple in the Rolex collection for more than seventy years. Rolex first patented the Oyster bracelet design in 1947 and presented it to the public the following year in 1948. However, it's important to note that the origins of the Oyster bracelet date back to the Bonklip style Rolex bracelets that were outsourced to bracelet manufacturer Gay Frères during the 1930s/1940s.

The links of the Oyster bracelet have always been flat and the links have evolved over the years. There have been riveted links, folded links, and solid links. Over the years, the "rivet" style links would be replaced by a thicker "folded" style, before finally being phased out in favor of solid links, which give the bracelet its modern character. However for many, those hollow links from the early days have a certain charm that pure functionality cannot beat.

Evolution of Oyster Bracelet Links

6635/6636

Riveted and expandable links

19 mm / 20 mm

1954

7205/7206

Riveted

19 mm / 20 mm

1954

7835/7836

Folded

19 mm / 20 mm

1967

9315

Folded with Diver Clasp

20 mm

1969

9316

Folded with Diver Clasp

20 mm (Sea-Dweller)

1969

78350/78360

Solid

19 mm / 20 mm

1975

93150

Solid (w/ Diver Clasp)

20 mm

1975

93160

Solid (w/ Diver Clasp)

20 mm

1978

Today, the Oyster bracelet is the most widespread band style found in Rolex’s lineup, available in almost all Rolex collections. It is the bracelet of choice of famous Rolex sports watches like the Submariner and the Daytona, as well as, quintessential dress watches like the Datejust and Oyster Perpetual—and plenty in between. Of course, there are also different sizes of the Oyster bracelet depending on the watch. From the smaller Lady-Datejust timepieces to the larger GMT-Master pilot watches to the jumbo Deepsea dive watches, the versatile Oyster bracelet is always a great fit. 

rolex bracelets

Oyster Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

70130 13mm Oyster Perpetual 26
70160 16mm Oyster Perpetual 31
70190 19mm Oyster Perpetual 34
70200 20mm Oyster Perpetual 36
70400 20mm Oyster Perpetual 39
72130-72131-72133-74138-74139 13mm Lady-Datejust 26
72340-72341-72343 14mm Lady-Datejust 28
72160-72161-72163 16mm Datejust 31
73168 16mm Datejust 31
72190 19mm Oyster Perpetual Date 34
72600- 72601 – 72603 20mm Datejust 36
72801-72803-72800 20mm Datejust 36
72210 - 72213 21mm

Datejust II

72610-72611

21mm

Datejust 41

73205-73208-73209

20mm

Day-Date 36

73605 

20mm

Day-Date 36

72415-72418-72419-72223-72220

21mm

Sky-Dweller

72400

20mm

Milgauss

77200

20mm

Explorer 39

77210

21mm

Explorer II

71200

20mm

Air-King 40

78200-78203-78208-78209-79201-79205

20mm

GMT-Master II

78210-78211-78218-78219

21mm

Yacht-Master II

78590-78593-78595-78596-78598-78599

20mm

Cosmograph Daytona

78740-78743-78750-78753

17 mm

Yacht-Master 35

78763-78800

20mm

Yacht-Master 40

97200

20mm

Submariner

97200-97203-97208-97209

20mm

Submariner Date

97400

20mm

Sea-Dweller 40

97220-97223

22mm

Sea-Dweller 43

98210

21mm

Deepsea

98220

22mm

Deepsea

In addition to being the most prevalent Rolex band, the Oyster bracelet is also available in every metal Rolex uses. Additionally, there are Oyster bracelets set with diamonds for some ultra-special Rolex jewelry watches. The last number in any Rolex bracelet code denotes the material.

  • 0 = Steel and/or 904L Oystersteel
  • 1 = Everose Gold & Steel
  • 3 = Yellow Gold & Steel
  • 5 = Rose Gold
  • 6 = Platinum
  • 8 = Yellow Gold
  • 9 = White Gold

Depending on the model, the Oyster bracelet comes equipped with a range of clasps. Here's a list of the type of Rolex clasp used on current-production Rolex watches with Oyster bracelets. What's the difference between the Oysterclasp and Oysterlock? Aesthetically, the former has the Rolex coronet embossed into the clasp whereas the latter includes the coronet as part of the opening mechanism. Mechanically, the Oysterclasp is constructed with a folding clasp with a cover while the Oysterlock is built with a folding safety clasp, a cover, and a safety catch. The Easylink extension system permits the wearer to extend the bracelet by 5mm while the Glidelock can lengthen the bracelet by 20mm in 2mm intervals. Furthermore, the Fliplock extension links allow the band to be adjusted by an additional 26 mm to fit over thicker diving suits.

rolex bracelets

Oyster Bracelet Clasp Type

Oyster Perpetual

Oysterclasp

Datejust

Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system

Milgauss

Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system

Air-King

Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system

Sky-Dweller

Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system

GMT-Master II

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Daytona

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Yacht-Master

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Yacht-Master II

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Explorer I

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Explorer II

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Submariner

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Glidelock 

Sea-Dweller

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Glidelock and Fliplock

Deepsea

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Glidelock and Fliplock

The Rolex Jubilee Bracelet

Dressier than the Oyster bracelet, the Jubilee bracelet made its debut in 1945 on the then-new Datejust timepiece. Its five-piece links construction includes three thinner interior links flanked by larger links. These two different link sizes are especially noticeable on two-tone Rolesor versions when the interior links are in yellow or Everose gold. It is one of Rolex’s dressier bracelet styles, available in a bevy of metal options and sizes. 

While the overall look of the Jubilee bracelet has remained largely the same since its introduction, a closer look at the links reveals some notable modifications over the years. There have been folded links, oval links, D-shaped links, and solid links. Before Rolex became the vertically integrated giant it is today, the company outsourced the manufacturing of certain parts to specialists—standard practice in horology back in the day. Some bracelets were even manufactured in the USA and Mexico and these bracelets had distinct oval-shaped links. 

Swiss-Made Folded Link

1950s – 1970s

Made in USA/Mexican Oval Link

1950s – 1970s

Swiss-Made D Link

1970s – 2000s

Swiss-Made Solid Link

2000s - Present

The Jubilee has continued as a mainstay in the Datejust collection however, the current steel versions of the sporty GMT-Master II watch are also paired with the Jubilee bracelet.

rolex bracelets

Jubilee Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

63130-63131-63133

13mm

Lady-Datejust 26

63345-63348-63341

14mm

Lady-Datejust 28

63160-63161-63163-64169

16mm

Datejust 31

63600-63601-63603-63608-62803-62800

20mm

Datejust 36

62613

21mm

Datejust 41

69200

20mm

GMT-Master II

The Jubilee bracelet is fitted with a concealed folding Crownclasp, which has a Rolex coronet lever that opens the bracelet to reveal folding blades. The concealment of the clasp allows the intricate pattern of the Jubilee links to run seamlessly around the wrist.

The Rolex President Bracelet

The Rolex President bracelet was first introduced on the inaugural Day-Date watch in 1956. Its signature semi-circular three-piece links are instantly recognizable and highly sought-after. Rolex only ever produces the President bracelet in precious metals—never in steel. There are yellow, white, and rose gold, as well as, platinum versions of the President bracelet. For ultra-lavish versions, there are also some diamond President bracelets available too.

The President bracelet is exclusive to all Day-Date watches—Day-Date 36, Day-Date II, and Day-Date 40—as well as some precious metal Lady-Datejust and Datejust 31 models. 

Over the years, Rolex made some noteworthy versions of the President bracelet including the Tridor variety where the center links had a mix of three shades of gold. For a short time in the late 1970s and early 1980s, Rolex also manufactured some President bracelets with bark-like accents on the center links.

President Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

83135-83136-83138-83139

13mm

Lady-Datejust 26

83345-83346-83348

14mm

Lady-Datejust 28

83165-83168-83169-83369-83368-83365-84166-84168

16mm

Datejust 31

83205-83206-83208-83209-83408-83405-83409-84206-84208-84209

20mm

Day-Date 36

83415-83416-83418-83419

21mm

Day-Date 40

83215-83216-83218-83219

21mm

Day-Date II

Similar to the Jubilee, the famous President bracelets are always fastened with a concealed folding Crownclasp. Again, this allows for the beautifully curvy bracelet links to wrap around one's wrist without interruption from a bulky clasp.

The Rolex Integrated Bracelets

In 1977, Rolex presented a range of Oysterquartz watches that ran on in-house quartz calibers. In addition to the distinct angular case shapes of the Oysterquartz Datejust and Oysterquartz Day-Date watches, another fundamental design element of these unique Rolex quartz watches were their bracelets.

True to the fashion of the era, Oysterquartz watches have integrated bracelets that taper towards the clasp. A truly unforgettable look, these bracelets are really fantastic. But even more clever is how Rolex took its classic bracelet designs—Oyster, Jubilee, and President - and revamped them into the integrated style.

The stainless steel integrated Oyster bracelet, two-tone integrated Jubilee bracelet, and solid gold integrated President bracelet were designed close enough to the original bands to bear the same names, yet modified enough to give the Oysterquartz watches their singular style. Many Oysterquartz bracelet codes are the same number as the reference of the watch.

Oysterquartz Bracelet Codes, Style, and Watch Model

17010-17000B

Steel Oyster

Oysterquartz Datejust

17013-17013B

Two-Tone Jubilee

Oysterquartz Datejust

19018- 19028

Yellow Gold President

Oysterquartz Day-Date

19019

White Gold President

Oysterquartz Day-Date

Interesting editions of the President integrated bracelet for the Oysterquartz Day-Date watches are those with the intricate pyramid patterns.

rolex bracelets

The Pearlmaster Bracelet

Rolex launched the Pearlmaster bracelet in 1992 for the Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster watches. The Pearlmaster is Rolex's collection of lavish jewelry watches where diamonds and other gems adorn the dial, bezel, bracelet, or all of the above.

Distinguished by their rounded five-piece links, all Pearlmaster bracelets are exclusively in 18k gold, whether in yellow, white, or Everose. Diamond versions range from a pair of diamond-set links to full diamond pavé styles. 

While the Pearlmaster's home is the Pearlmaster watch collection, in the 2000s, Rolex did make some special edition Day-Date "Masterpiece" watches fitted with Pearlmaster bracelets and 39mm cases. This explains why in some circles, the Pearlmaster bracelet is called the Masterpiece bracelet. However, in the official brand catalog, these Masterpiece/Pearlmaster bracelets for the Day-Date were labeled "Oyster Special Edition."

Pearlmaster Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

72845-72848-72849

17mm

Pearlmaster 34

44745-42745-42749

20mm

Pearlmaster 39

72746 -72748- 72748-74746

20mm

Day-Date "Special Edition" Masterpiece

Securing the Pearlmaster bracelet in place is also the concealed folding Crownclasp.

The Rolex Leather Strap

Though Rolex is most famous for its metal bracelets, the Swiss watchmaking giant certainly has made its fair share of leather straps too. In fact, early Rolex models came with leather straps including vintage Oyster watches. The advent of Rolex tool watches — Explorer, Submariner, Milgauss, and GMT-Master — brought about the dominance of metal bracelets in the Rolex Oyster catalog. On the other hand, as the brand’s more traditional dress watch, Rolex Cellini watches have often had leather straps. All current Cellini watches are fitted with leather straps equipped with tang buckles. 

In the early 2000s, Rolex revealed some special white gold Daytona models with colorful dials and even more colorful leather straps. Dubbed the "Daytona Beach" collection, these vibrant chronographs donned pink, turquoise, green, and yellow exotic leather straps.

There is an assortment of modern Rolex watches with leather straps such as the Sky-Dweller, Daytona, Day-Date, and Datejust. The Day-Date 36 with leather is yet another collection of colorful dial and leather combinations, including green, blue, Bordeaux, and chocolate. Completing these leather straps are matching gold folding Crownclasp buckles for easy adjusting and optimal security.

Rolex recently replaced all leather Daytona watches with another style of bracelet, the Oysterflex.

rolex bracelets

The Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet

The newest Rolex bracelet to join the catalog, the Oysterflex is the brand’s version of a rubber strap. Making its debut on the Everose Yacht-Master in 2015, the Oysterflex may look like an ordinary black rubber strap. But of course, it isn't.

First, Rolex insists on calling it a bracelet rather than a strap. This is because of its unique construction. The proprietary Oysterflex actually begins as a titanium and nickel metal alloy blade. That metal blade is then coated in black elastomer. This clever combination means the Oysterflex is both robust like metal yet flexible like rubber.

Flip the Oysterflex bracelet over and you'll find a patented cushion system that resembles fins. This detail allows for much-needed air circulation to keep the sweatiness typically associated with rubber straps at bay.

When the Oysterflex first launched, it was only available on the Everose Yacht-Master 40 and Everose Yacht-Master 37. The white gold Yacht-Master 42 later followed with an Oysterflex bracelet. The Oysterflex bracelet is now also an option on yellow, white, and Everose gold Daytona models. As previously mentioned, the Oysterflex Daytona watches have replaced the leather Daytona models.

There are three widths for the Oysterflex bracelets and each side of the bracelet comes in six different lengths, which are categorized from letters C to H. Rolex currently only pairs the Oysterflex bracelet with gold versions of the Yacht-Master and Daytona.

Oysterflex Bracelet Codes, Bracelet Wide, and Watch Model

350501

20mm

Yacht-Master 40; Daytona

351525

21mm

Yacht-Master 42

350557

18mm

Yacht-Master 37

122 mm – 132 mm

C

D

132 mm – 140 mm

C

E

140 mm – 152 mm

D

E

152 mm – 162 mm

D

F

162 mm – 173 mm

E

F

173 mm – 183 mm

E

G

183 mm – 193 mm

F

G

193 mm – 204 mm

F

H

204 mm – 215 mm

G

H

215 mm – 224 mm

H

H

128 mm – 138 mm

C

D

138 mm – 150 mm

C

E

150 mm – 159 mm

D

E

159 mm – 170 mm

D

F

170 mm – 180 mm

E

F

180 mm – 191 mm

E

G

191 mm – 202 mm

F

G

202 mm – 213 mm

F

H

213 mm – 225 mm

G

H

225 mm – 234 mm

H

H

Finishing off the Oysterflex bracelets are matching gold Oysterlock safety clasps along with the 5mm Easylink extension system. However, the newer Yacht-Master 42 includes the Glidelock on its clasp.

The Iconic Rolex Bracelets

As we've illustrated, the bracelet style is such a significant part of the look and feel of a Rolex watch. It's one thing to have certain watch models that are so famous that they are recognizable just by their model names without the need to mention the brand name. Rolex took it further by applying this same icon-making approach to its collection of bracelets.

Rolex bracelets have their own names, distinct design language, histories, and marketing campaigns. No other luxury brand celebrates the watch bracelet as intensely as Rolex does. Drop the names Oyster, Jubilee, and President, and people who know watches immediately know what these Rolex bracelets look like. Similar to cases and movements, Rolex dedicates an enormous amount of research and development to their bracelets too. And it clearly shows when you put one of them on.

rolex bracelets

IMAGES

  1. Rolex Yacht-Master 42, 18k White Gold, Oysterflex Bracelet, 226659 For

    rolex yacht master oysterflex bracelet

  2. A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm With Oysterflex

    rolex yacht master oysterflex bracelet

  3. Rolex Yacht-Master 40 126655 Everose Gold Oysterflex Bracelet 2022

    rolex yacht master oysterflex bracelet

  4. Four Things To Know About Rolex’s Oysterflex Bracelet

    rolex yacht master oysterflex bracelet

  5. Rolex Yacht-Master 42, 18k White Gold, Oysterflex Bracelet, 226659 For

    rolex yacht master oysterflex bracelet

  6. Baselworld 2015: Rolex Launches New Everose Gold Yacht-Master with

    rolex yacht master oysterflex bracelet

VIDEO

  1. Rolex Yacht-Master 42

  2. A Look Inside the Rolex Yacht-Master

  3. ROLEX YACHT MASTER CINTURINO IN CAUCCIU' : Prestigio e Innovazione senza Tempo

  4. Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet Watches

  5. Rolex Yachtmaster Everose Ceramic Oysterflex 40 mm 116655 Watch Overview HD

  6. ROLEX YACHT-MASTER 37MM ROSEGOLD OYSTERFLEX CUSTOM DIAMOND PAVED DIAL (2018)