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Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Ultimate Buying Guide

First released at Baselworld 2019, the Yacht-Master 42 is the newest and largest addition to the Rolex Yacht-Master lineup. Historically, the Yacht Master collection has been the only Rolex sports model available in multiple sizes; however, until the release of the Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659, 40mm was the largest case size available. Despite the fact that the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 introduced a new and larger 42mm case to the collection, at the time of writing, the model is only offered in a single configuration: a 42mm white gold case fitted with a black dial, black ceramic bezel, and matching black Oysterflex bracelet.

At first glance, the Rolex Yacht Master 42 reference 226659 appears very similar to the 40mm Everose gold model that is also fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet. Both watches feature black dials, matte black ceramic bezels with raised polished numerals, black Oysterflex bracelets, and Rolex’s in-house Caliber 3235 movement. However, while the core design of the Yacht-Master 42 is shared with the other Oysterflex Yacht-Master watches, the larger case paired with its toned-down monochromatic color profile makes it immediately distinct, and these small changes come together to make the Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 the perfect poster child for the modern Rolex brand.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Reference 226659

Yacht-Master 226659 Key Features:

– Reference Number: 226659

– Production Years: 2019 – Present

– Case Size: 42mm

– Materials: 18k White Gold

– Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds; Date Display

– Dial: Black w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Luminescence: Chromalight

– Bezel: Bidirectional, Black Ceramic Insert w/ 60-Minute Scale

– Crystal: Sapphire (Flat w/ Cyclops Lens)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 3235

– Water Resistance: 100 Meters / 330 Feet

– Strap/Bracelet: Oysterflex Bracelet

– Clasp: Oysterlock Safety Clasp w/ Glidelock Extension System

– Approx. Price: $28,900 (Retail); $33,500 (Pre-Owned)

Click here for our Ultimate Buying Guide on the Rolex Yacht-Master.

The History of the Rolex Yacht Master 42

Compared to many of Rolex’s other lines of watches, the Yacht-Master is a fairly young collection, having only just joined the brand’s catalog in 1992. While Rolex originally built much of its reputation by producing tough-as-nails tool watches, the brand had already started to make its transition towards becoming an all-out luxury manufacturer by the 1980s, and the Yacht-Master was created as an unapologetically luxurious take on the brand’s classic sports watch.

The Rolex Yacht-Master largely follows the same overall design as the Submariner, but leans more towards the opulent and luxurious side of things, rather than being a purpose-built underwater timing tool. Both the Submariner and the Yacht-Master feature rotating timing bezels, but while the Submariner’s bezel rotates unidirectionally and features a luminous dot at the zero-marker, the Yacht-Master’s moves bi-directionally and omits the luminous dot in favor of an insert crafted from either solid gold, platinum, or black ceramic. Similarly, all Rolex Yacht-Master watches feature precious metals somewhere in their construction. Even the most humble models that are largely crafted from stainless steel feature solid platinum bezels, and while the bezel insert on the reference 226659 is built from black ceramic, the watch itself is crafted from solid 18k white gold.

Initially, the Rolex Yacht-Master was exclusively offered in solid yellow gold and with a 40mm case. However, over the years, the collection expanded to include other case sizes and materials including both two-tone and Rolesium (a combination of stainless steel and platinum) references. Both a 29mm Lady Yacht-Master and 35mm Midsize Yacht-Master were previously offered alongside the standard 40mm model, but these two smaller versions were ultimately discontinued in favor of the Midsize Yacht-Master 37.

With that in mind, Baselworld 2019 marked the arrival of both an all-new Yacht-Master size and a new material option for the collection. With the launch of the reference 226659, not only was the Rolex Yacht-Master now available with a 42mm case diameter for the first time in its history but it was also offered with a solid 18k white gold case – something that was previously not an option within the standard Yacht-Master collection. While the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 marked a major step forward for the collection, the new 42mm case size is exclusively available for the ref. 226659, and the watch is only available in one single configuration. Given that the Yacht-Master 42 has only been on the market for a couple of years, many collectors speculate that the solid 18k white gold ref. 226659 is just the first of many 42mm Rolex Yacht-Master watches.

Rolex Yacht Master 42 Defining Elements

For the most part, the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 is a larger, white gold version of the Everose Yacht-Master 40 that is also on an Oysterflex bracelet. However, the ref. 226659 does possess a number of unique traits that make it immediately identifiable and separate it from all other Rolex watches.

42mm White Gold Case

Probably the single most defining feature of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 is its 42mm case crafted from solid 18k white gold. Not only is this unique because the ref. 226659 is the only 42mm Yacht-Master model, but it also holds the distinction of being the only one that has ever been constructed from white gold. Over the course of the Yacht-Master’s history, it has been created in full 18k yellow gold, Yellow Rolesor (stainless steel and yellow gold), Rolesium (stainless steel and platinum), full 18k Everose gold, and Everose Rolesor (stainless steel and Everose gold). Additionally, there is even a version of the 44mm Yacht-Master II regatta timer that is built from white gold with a platinum bezel, but the reference 226659 is the only iteration of the classic Yacht-Master to be offered in full 18k white gold.

Black Cerachrom Bezel

Just like the 37mm and 40mm Everose gold Rolex Yacht-Master models that are also fitted with Oysterflex bracelets, the Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 receives a bidirectional timing bezel with an insert that is crafted from Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom ceramic material. The black ceramic insert is given a matte-sandblasted texture, with raised graduations that feature a high-polish finish for improved contrast. Despite having both a different case size and being made from different materials, the matte black ceramic insert on the Yacht-Master 42 instantly unites it with the rest of the Oysterflex bracelets Yacht-Master watches in Rolex’s portfolio.

Oysterflex Bracelet

The Rolex Oysterflex bracelet is quite possibly the most over-engineered rubber strap in the world – however, to call it a “rubber strap” is a bit misleading. Rolex specifically refers to it as a bracelet within its catalog because the elastomer strap features a flexible metal core for optimum durability and longevity. Additionally, the underside of the strap features a comfort pad that elevates the strap slightly off the wrist, better distributing the weight of the watch and promoting airflow and breathability.

One of the more interesting details about how Rolex has chosen to structure its catalog is that the Oysterflex bracelet (seemingly the most sporty and least formal option) is exclusively equipped to the brand’s solid gold models. Whether fitted to a Daytona, Sky-Dweller, or Yacht-Master watch, all of the Oysterflex-equipped models are crafted from solid 18k gold (either yellow, white, or Everose). At the time of writing, the Oysterflex bracelet is only found on the full 18k Everose gold Yachtmaster 40 and Yacht-Master 37 watches, along with the 18k white gold Yacht-Master 42.

Rolex Caliber 3235 Movement

Despite being 2mm larger than the current Yacht-Master 40, the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 is powered by the exact same Caliber 3235 movement. Designed and manufactured entirely in-house by Rolex, the Cal. 3235 represents the brand’s latest generation of date-displaying mechanical movements and can be found in a number of other date-displaying Rolex watches, including all-time classics like the Datejust and the Submariner.

The Caliber 3235 movement is based around Rolex’s new Chronergy escapement, which features a skeletonized structure for improved efficiency. When combined with Rolex’s proprietary blue Parachrom hairspring and a redesigned gear train and mainspring barrel, the Caliber 3235 offers users an increased power reserve of 70 hours, which represents a significant step up from the 48-hour reserve offered by its predecessor. Additionally, despite its improved efficiency, the Rolex Cal. 3235 movement adheres to the same incredibly stringent ‘Superlative Chronometer’ precision standards, which permit a maximum timekeeping deviation of -2/+2 seconds per day.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Price and Availability

The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 has only been around for a couple of years, so it is still in production and available for purchase from retailers and boutiques. However, as anyone who is familiar with Rolex watches will tell you, finding the model you want brand-new and available for immediate sale is virtually impossible and for many highly popular references, there is no way to buy a brand-new Rolex without spending a significant amount of time on a waiting list. As a result of this lack of availability on a retail level, many buyers turn to the secondary market, where they can add a Rolex Yachtmaster 42 ref. 226659 to their collections without the wait.

How Much is a Rolex Yacht-Master 42?

As of 2021, the retail price for a brand-new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 is $28,900, which represents a $1,600 premium compared to its 40mm Everose gold counterpart. However, due to the fact that the white gold Yacht-Master 42 cannot be purchased at a retail level without being on a waiting list, pre-owned prices exceed their brand-new values and you can expect to pay a premium of several thousand dollars if you wish to skip the line and add one to your collection today.

Where to Buy a Rolex Yacht-Master 42

Since the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 is still in production, you can technically still buy it brand-new from Rolex retailers and boutiques – just as long as you are willing to wait out the cue. A similar story exists for most of the popular modern Rolex models; however, compared to the steep premiums that many of the brand’s stainless steel sports watches trade hands for on the open market (which can frequently reach values in excess of 100% above their brand-new retail prices), the comparatively reasonable premium of a few thousand dollars to skip the line for a reference 226659 Yachtmaster 42 means that buyers often opt for a pre-owned example, where availability is immediate and guaranteed.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42: A Modern Luxury Sports Watch

Rolex may have originally built much of its legendary reputation by building tough and reliable sport and tool watches, but the brand’s days as a manufacturer of utilitarian timekeeping devices have long since passed. These days, Rolex is an all-out luxury brand and it is arguably the single most famous luxury label in the entire world. The thought of a military branch supplying its troops with Rolex Submariner watches has become almost comical given that countless people all around the globe are unable to buy a Submariner, despite being more than willing to pay full retail price for one. In fact, the Rolex Submariner is so in-demand that most people are willing to pay far more than the brand-new retail price, just to skip the multi-year waiting list and add one to their collections.

Despite Rolex’s transition towards becoming a luxury manufacturer, it has never stopped producing reliable and finely crafted sports watches. However, the nature of its sports watches has certainly evolved to take on a more luxury-oriented approach, just like the brand’s positioning within the greater watch market. Rolex was producing sports watches back in the 1950s and 1960s and although its products were always considered to be premium timepieces, they were hardly regarded as luxury items, let alone status symbols.

These days, Rolex sports watches are some of the most iconic and desirable luxury timepieces in existence, and wearing one has become a universally recognized symbol of success and personal accomplishment. As a result of the implicit connotations that they carry, modern Rolex sports watches need to do more than just be tough and reliable; they also need to offer a bit of flash and match the opulent and exclusive image of Rolex itself.

The Yacht-Master 42 reference 226659 is the perfect poster-child for the modern Rolex brand. Its monochromatic color profile paired with its matte black ceramic bezel and black Oysterflex bracelet makes the watch inherently casual and sporty, and at first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking that this was a humble stainless steel model. However, at its core, the Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 is a $30k solid gold Rolex. Wearing a Rolex watch has become a universally recognized status symbol, but Rolex is not a brand known for making over-the-top, statement pieces. The white gold Yacht-Master 42 is the perfect statement piece for those that do not want to make a statement, and that is precisely why the reference 226659 is the perfect poster-child for the modern Rolex brand.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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Hands-On Rolex Yacht-Master II Review

So, I got a YachtMaster II. But hear me out… It was an insanely, and undeserved gift (“the company you keep”, right?). This got me to thinking about a lot of Rolexes offerings , and brought me around to the idea that the Yacht-Master II, no matter how niche a complication, no matter how specific, no matter how big, no matter how ridiculous - Might be one of my favorite models - And I’m not just saying that because I didn’t actually make the purchase.

Let me clear the elephant in the room. That’s the “You’re just saying you like the watch because it was free” statement that is absolutely BOUND to shroud my DM’s after this goes live. And that’s fine, I expect it, I welcome it, and I recognize the privilege that I’m projecting here. However, I would like to clear the air on where this review is going to come from - I have had plenty, and I mean PLENTY of opportunity to buy, sell, handle, photograph, and write about Rolex in the past decade. While I have on occasion, I’ve never particularly found Rolex to be a terribly interesting brand to review. Incremental changes over decades and decades tend to run together, and very few of those changes are worth lengthy, wrist-time in order to trump the (literal) thousands of reviews on the internet already - So I’ve mostly passed up on writing any kind of in-depth article or review on the brand. I’ve always felt that was better left for the Rolex boys, who are probably more qualified than myself to write about them anyway.

That is, until I have been wearing this particular model for a decent period of time. I started to notice that so many of the Rolex Yacht-Master II reviews on the internet, have often come from people who are attempting to sell you the watch. With the exception of a few “Hands On” articles floating around, I have had a very difficult time finding an open and honest review of this particular watch from someone who has actually owned one, and has worn it for a significant portion of time. So that is what I’m going to attempt to do here. This is going to be a wordy, however, comprehensive review of the Rolex Yacht-Master II (Ref 116680) - Arguably the most polarizing modern watch Rolex has produced.

If you’ve been around Rolex circles for any serious amount of time, you’ll likely have heard that the Yacht-Master II is simply too large of a watch for Rolex to have made - And to be fair, it’s very big by Rolex standards. The watch is the only Rolex produced that measures in at 44mm with a significant 14mm thickness and is made of 904L Stainless Steel. So to the more introverted Rolex collector, this is probably not the watch for them. While this model is definitely heavy, I have never once felt this watch to be uncomfortable or a nuisance on the wrist.

I have seen a number of comments that the Yacht-Master II is too bulky and heavy, however I do not feel that is the case. In fact, my Omega Planet Ocean is only 42mm x 15.7mm, and feels much bulkier and heavier than the Yacht-Master II.

The case is alternating with polished and satin-finished and features a nautical blue ceramic bezel. The pushers are, as is Rolex’s MO, a perfect length. Even though I’m left handed, and therefore wear my watch on my right wrist, I had no issues with the pushers digging into my wrist, or catching on my sleeves. The rounded and tapered case, although thick, cleanly buffers between the oversized bezel and any sleeve you wish to pull over it. I live in Tampa FL, so I am always tucking it away under a sleeve… cause… I don’t want to get robbed in a parking lot.

The pushers are easy to use, cause it’s Rolex, and of course they are. The triple-lock crown screws down easy and fits tight against the case, so I never feel like there is any risk in the water - Even though the watch carries a 100m water resistance rating.

The bezel is often criticized for it’s ostentatious nature. I mean, there is no doubt what watch is on your wrist with the huge, bold, and easily seen “YACHT-MASTER II” etched into the bezel itself. The bezel function works with the movement (which we will get to in a minute), as it turns 90 degrees in order to program the indicators (which we’ll also get to). The matte finish with crescent grippers makes the bezel easy to use, and readily available when needed.

This is the ref. 116680, which means there were some moderate adjustments made to the dial by Rolex over the previous er… 116680 (Rolex opted not to change the reference number). Personally, I find them to be minimal, and unless you’re insanely familiar with the Yacht-Master II line of watches, will likely be largely unnoticed, but I feel it important to discuss anyway.

For starters, the indicators are not simply square all the way around the dial anymore. Instead of every indicator remaining the same shape and angle, the 12 o’ clock indice was changed to an elongated triangle to easily dictate the top of the watch. Additionally, the 6 o’clock indicator was changed to an elongated rectangle, again, to easily dictate it’s location. Is this likely to be a deal-breaker for Regatta enthusiasts when looking to time 60 second intervals with a flyback function? Probably not. But it does make the dial a lot more legible, and I suppose, a certain percentage more useful.

Additionally, the other major changes were too the handset. Instead of the heat treated blued handset of prior models, the 116680 features skeletonized hands with lumed tips and an added “mercedes” hour hand. This allows for the wearer to see the Regatta timer lap ring with minimal interruption - Although, I think the blue handset would have helped - The polished hands can get lost against the slick white dial in certain light. Lesser changes include some thickening of lines, a bit darker tint of blue, and some added lume.

Overall, the dial is exactly what you’d expect from Rolex. It’s superbly legible, displays the utility of the movement well, and is innately “Rolex”. The updates definitely add to the legibility, even when using the lap timer, however, I’ve never known a Rolex to really struggle in that department to begin with.

THE MOVEMENT:

Inside the Yacht-Master II is the Rolex Calibre 4161. The movement is formidable, and the functions make sense for the extremely specific times a captain would need to use it. Essentially, the “chronograph” functions as a 10 minute countdown sectioned off in “laps”. When activated, the movement counts the ten lap starting sequence of a regatta race.

Interestingly, because of the internal memory, the movement can be programmed for any position within the 1-10 sequence for even more precise timing. This can be done by rotating the “Command bezel” 90 degrees and pressing the start / stop pusher to adjust the position. Interestingly, Rolex boasts that it’s one of the first watches in the world to utilize a bezel in conjunction to the movement.

The 360+ part Calibre 4161 beats at 28,800 VpH, features a 72-hour power reserve, and Rolex’s Parachrom hairspring for better anti-magnetism.

THE BRACELET:

The watch comes on an Oystersteel bracelet with a pretty unique clasp feature that allows for the adjustment of the links to 5mm - or a half link. This was super handy for my wrist, because the watch sat just a hair too lose, but taking out a third link would cause the watch to flop around more than I’d like. Admittedly, I hadn’t had much experience with this feature, but learned on the fly how easy it was to use. Where the bracelet connects to the clasp, there is a little fold half link. You can either pull up and flip it back down to set it in place, or pull slightly back to release it. This either shortens, or lengthens the link. This is great for hot days when your wrist swells. And the added ability to do it quick, on the fly, and without tools was a huge bonus to the watches utility.

Obviously, there isn’t much improving on the Oyster bracelet. It’s insanely comfortable, it flexes perfectly when it needs to, it’s clasp is solid and doesn’t buckle (no pun intended) and it’s fit to the lugs is perfect for the watch.

The Yacht-Master II is very top-heavy, so it’s important for the bracelet to manage that efficiently, and this is Rolex we’re talking about, so it does. Are there times that swelling and moisture, and dirt / sand affect the comfort? Sure, but there’s nothing the bracelet can do to fix that.

CONCLUSION:

While, admittedly loud, I found myself leaning into the oversized and exaggerated nature of the watch more and more. Is it massive and recognizable? Yes. Obviously. Does it take away from the watch at all? No. I feel it compliments it. Rolex as a whole has a difficult time being identified without, it becoming your entire identity - If that makes any sense, and the Yacht-Master II case is one of the few (in my opinion) Rolex watches that comes with it’s own personality - even if that personality tends to get lumped in with the loud and obnoxiously rich people that tend to strive to own it.

As my first Rolex, I recognize that it’s not exactly the normal “First” for the brand, but I’ve grown to love the watch. In fact, I think it’s a staple in my collection. It’s hefty and legitimately feels like a sports watch worth wearing, and still classic and toned down enough to be a dinner watch. I don’t have much to fault the watch with that isn’t built into the foundations of what the watch is to begin with. I feel and criticism I could really throw at it would be met with “Yeah, we know, that’s the point”, and that just feels… well, pointless.

How much is the Rolex Yacht-Master II?

If you can find one at retail, you’re looking at a price tag of $18,700 USD but is going for around $24,000 to $29,000 on the secondary market.

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Rolex Yacht-Master

Marine character

Launched in 1992, the Yacht-Master was designed specifically for navigators and skippers. This Professional-category watch provides a perfect blend of functionality and nautical style, making it equally at home on and off the water.

An immediately recognizable bezel

The Yacht-Master is easily recognizable for its bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel made entirely from precious metal (Everose gold or platinum) or fitted with a black Cerachrom insert in high-technology ceramic. The raised polished graduations and numerals stand out clearly against a matt background. This characteristic and functional bezel – which enables the wearer to read time intervals, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – plays a full part in creating the unique visual identity of the watch.

Exclusive materials

Robust, accurate and perfectly waterproof, the Yacht-Master is one of the only Rolex Professional watches offered in several diameters (37, 40 and 42 mm).

The Yacht-Master 37 and Yacht-Master 40 are available in a Rolesium version (combining Oystersteel and platinum, exclusive to the Yacht-Master range) and in an Everose Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and Everose gold) with a bezel in precious metal and fitted with an Oyster bracelet. Both models are also offered in 18 ct Everose gold featuring a Cerachrom bezel insert in black ceramic and an Oysterflex bracelet.

Perpetual calibres 2236 and 3235

Yacht-Master models are equipped with calibre 2236 (Yacht-Master 37) or calibre 3235 (Yacht-Master 40 and Yacht-Master 42), self-winding mechanical movements entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. They offer outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability. Both movements’ power reserve extends to approximately 70 hours.

Superlative Chronometer certification

Like all Rolex timepieces, the Yacht-Master is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories, according to its own criteria. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by a green seal and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

A selection of models

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Cosmograph Daytona

Yacht-Master

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GMT-Master II

THE COSMOPOLITAN WATCH

The Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is designed to display the time in two different time zones simultaneously. Robust and functional, it is the ideal watch for criss-crossing the globe.

In function as well as in name, the GMT-Master II evokes long-distance travel across time zones. Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) marks mean solar time at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London – historically the location of the official prime meridian used for calculating longitude and determining different time zones around the world. A cosmopolitan watch, the GMT-Master II is designed for those who criss-cross the globe or whose activities take place simultaneously across several time zones.

ACROSS TIME ZONES Launched in 1955, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master witnessed the rapid expansion of intercontinental travel in the latter half of the 20th century. It even became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known worldwide as Pan Am, the most prominent American intercontinental airline at the time. In 1959, a major event marked the partnership: the first non-stop Pan Am Jet Clipper flight from New York to Moscow. The captain was wearing a GMT-Master, which was used as a navigation aid during the flight. The GMT-Master, a true ‘tool watch’, evolved continually to offer increasing technical performance. In 1982, Rolex introduced a new movement that allowed the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands. To clearly mark this evolution, and to avoid any confusion with the GMT-Master, the model fitted with the optimized movement was named the GMT-Master II.

24-HOUR DISPLAY AND INDEPENDENT HOUR HAND In addition to conventional hour, minute and seconds hands, which display the local time (the time in the wearer’s current location), the GMT-Master II features an arrow-tipped hand which circles the dial once every 24 hours, as well as a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated monobloc Cerachrom insert in two-colour ceramic. When the bezel is in the neutral position, that is with the triangle at 12 o’clock, the 24-hour hand displays a reference time (home time, for example), which can be read using the graduations on the bezel . When abroad, travellers can set the local time easily, with the hour hand ‘ jumping ’ from hour to hour thanks to a mechanism operated via the winding crown. The adjustment can be made independently of the minute and seconds hands, and without affecting the 24-hour hand. As a result, travellers can simultaneously read their local time as well as the reference time .

ROTATABLE BEZEL AND ALTERNATIVE TIME ZONE The time in an alternative time zone can be displayed by simply turning the rotatable bezel. In this case, the reference time is no longer shown, as it is the alternative time zone that is now read via the 24-hour hand against the graduations on the bezel. The bezel was carefully designed to ideally fulfil its function. Rolex developed a bezel rotation system with a trigonal spring that allows the bezel to be turned crisply and securely in either direction and locate with a positive click in each of the 24 different hour positions. The bezel can be turned with ease thanks to its knurled edge, which offers excellent grip.

CERACHROM BEZEL INSERT The bidirectional rotatable bezel of the GMT-Master II is equipped with a 24-hour graduated, monobloc two-colour Cerachrom insert. This patented insert is made of extremely hard, virtually scratchproof ceramics whose colours are unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with gold or platinum using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process. Over and above its functions and its intrinsic technical assets, the bezel of the GMT-Master II contributes to the model’s strong visual identity. In 2013, Rolex broke new ground when it introduced its first single-piece, two-colour ceramic bezel insert – blue on one half and black on the other – on an Oystersteel version of the GMT-Master II. A year later, it unveiled the two-colour bezel insert in red and blue ceramic, on a GMT-Master II in 18 ct white gold. In 2018, the brand presented a two-colour bezel insert in brown and black ceramic, on two variants of the GMT-Master II – one in 18 ct Everose gold and the other in an Everose Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and Everose gold). The two-colour bezel insert in green and black ceramic was introduced in 2022 on an Oystersteel GMT-Master II with the winding crown on the left side of the case and the date aperture at 9 o’clock – the only Rolex watch with this configuration. In 2023, a two-colour Cerachrom insert in grey – a new shade – and black was unveiled on two variants of the model, one in a yellow Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and yellow gold) and the other crafted entirely from 18 ct yellow gold. These Cerachrom inserts blend the exceptional resistance of high-technology ceramic with the iconic aesthetics of the original GMT-Master.

THE GMT-MASTER II, SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFIED Like all Rolex watches, the GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This exclusive designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories and according to its own criteria. These certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee. The precision of every movement – officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) – is tested a second time by Rolex after being cased, to ensure that it meets criteria that are far stricter than those of the official certification. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2/+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone. The Superlative Chronometer certification testing is carried out after casing using state-of-the-art equipment specially developed by Rolex and according to an exclusive protocol that simulates the conditions in which a watch is actually worn and more closely represents real-life experience. The entirely automated series of tests also checks the waterproofness, the self-winding capacity and the power reserve of 100 per cent of Rolex watches. These tests systematically complement the qualification testing during development and production, in order to ensure the watches’ reliability, robustness, and resistance to strong magnetic fields and to shocks.

THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS The GMT-Master II’s Oyster case, 40 mm in diameter and guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and reliability. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel or 18 ct gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only certified Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date at 3 o’clock – or at 9 o’clock on the version with the winding crown on the left side of the case – is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.

CALIBRE 3285 The GMT-Master II is equipped with calibre 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A consummate demonstration of technology, this movement carries a number of patents. It offers outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.

Calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, made of nickel-phosphorus, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability and is also resistant to strong magnetic fields.

The movement is fitted with the blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. In addition to resisting strong magnetic fields, this hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position.

The oscillator of calibre 3285 has a large balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, further enhancing the movement’s shock resistance.

Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide a constant source of energy. Its oscillating weight has been fitted with an optimized ball bearing since 2023. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours.

The GMT-Master II’s movement will be seen only by certified Rolex watchmakers, yet it is beautifully finished and decorated. Since 2023, it has also been marked with the words ‘Chronometer Perpetual’ and ‘Superlative Adjusted’ engraved respectively on the oscillating weight and on the bridges.

BRACELET AND CLASP: SECURE AND COMFORTABLE The GMT-Master II is available on a three-piece link Oyster bracelet or a five-piece link Jubilee bracelet. These two bracelets are equipped with a Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock safety clasp that prevents accidental opening. They are fitted with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand, which allows the wearer to easily increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, providing additional comfort in any circumstance. On the 18 ct gold versions of the GMT-Master II, the Oyster and Jubilee bracelets include ceramic inserts – designed by Rolex and patented – inside the links to enhance their flexibility and longevity.

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