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Perfecting Your Model’s Sails: The Art of Rigging | Seacraftclassics

• September 10, 2023
• Boats and ships

Mastering the Art of Rigging: Enhancing the Authenticity of Your Model’s Sails

When it comes to creating a realistic and authentic model of a sailboat, one of the most crucial aspects is perfecting the rigging, particularly the sails. The art of rigging involves setting up the sails in a way that accurately represents the real-life counterpart, capturing the essence and beauty of sailing. In this article, we will delve into the secrets and techniques of sail rigging that will elevate the realism of your model to new heights.

Unveiling the Secrets of Rigging: Techniques to Perfect Your Model’s Sail Setup

Rigging a sailboat model requires attention to detail and a deep understanding of the principles of sailing. Here are some techniques that will help you achieve impeccable sail rigging:

1. Research and Reference

Before starting the rigging process, it is essential to conduct thorough research on the specific sailboat model you are replicating. Study photographs, blueprints, and even real-life sailboats to understand the intricacies of the rigging. Pay close attention to the arrangement of the sails, the types of rigging lines used, and the tension applied to each line.

2. Use High-Quality Materials

Investing in high-quality rigging materials is crucial for achieving a realistic look and ensuring the longevity of your model. Opt for materials such as fine thread or fishing line for the rigging lines, and choose appropriate fabrics for the sails, such as cotton or silk. These materials will provide the necessary strength and flexibility to accurately represent the tension and shape of the sails.

3. Rigging Techniques

There are several rigging techniques that can enhance the authenticity of your model’s sails:

• Running Rigging: Use thin thread or fishing line to create the running rigging, such as halyards, sheets, and control lines. Ensure that the lines are properly tensioned and secured to the appropriate points on the mast, boom, and deck.
• Standing Rigging: The standing rigging, including shrouds and stays, provides the necessary support for the mast. Use fine thread or wire to create these lines, ensuring they are accurately positioned and tensioned to maintain the correct shape of the mast.
• Sail Attachment: Attach the sails to the mast and boom using small eyelets or hooks. Pay attention to the proper alignment and tension of the sails to achieve a realistic appearance.

Elevate Your Model’s Realism: Tips and Tricks for Achieving Impeccable Sail Rigging

Here are some additional tips and tricks that will take your sail rigging to the next level:

1. Weathering and Aging

To add a touch of realism to your model, consider weathering and aging the sails. Use diluted acrylic paints or fabric dyes to create subtle discolorations and stains that mimic the effects of sun, saltwater, and time. Be sure to apply these effects sparingly and strategically to maintain a natural appearance.

2. Scale Accuracy

Pay close attention to the scale accuracy of your model’s rigging. Ensure that the size and proportions of the rigging lines and hardware are appropriate for the scale of your model. This attention to detail will greatly enhance the overall realism of your sailboat replica.

3. Practice and Patience

Perfecting the art of rigging takes practice and patience. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempts are not flawless. Take the time to learn from your mistakes, refine your techniques, and experiment with different approaches. With each model you build, your skills will improve, and your sail rigging will become more refined.

Mastering the art of rigging is essential for creating a realistic and authentic model of a sailboat. By conducting thorough research, using high-quality materials, and employing the right techniques, you can achieve impeccable sail rigging. Additionally, incorporating weathering and aging effects, ensuring scale accuracy, and practicing patience will elevate the realism of your model’s sails even further. So, set sail on your next model-building adventure and let your rigging skills shine!

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Rigging Begins

June 23, 2017

Fact check…I’m not great at rigging.  Rigging is a pretty specific skill, unique to model ship building, and this is only my second build.  On my Phantom build , I kinda rushed through rigging and just tied a bunch of knots.  I’m determined to do better this time.

The Plan for Rigging

In looking at other build logs, it seems that many modelers prefer to prepare as much rigging as possible before the masts are mounted on the ship.  This has some pros and cons…

• You can move the mast around to get a better angle to work.
• You don’t have to reach around existing rigging lines to attach things.
• You will likely use more rigging line, since you can’t precisely size each line.  You have to leave extra length on each run to ensure it is long enough.
• You have a mess of rigging lines that you need to keep organized.
• You have to do a bunch of work before you see any results.

On my Phantom build, I did all the rigging in place, after the masts were installed.  This time, I’m going to pre-rig what I can.

The general plan:

• Attach all the blocks, shackles, etc. to the masts, booms, and gaffs.
• Attach as many of the rigging lines as possible to the masts, booms, and gaffs.
• Leave each line with extra length, and coil the lines up.
• Tag each line with a sticker noting which line it is.
• Mount the masts.
• Run the shrouds and attach them to the deadeyes on the hull.
• Run the remaining standing rigging.

Over the last few months, I’ve spent a lot of time reviewing the plans and attempting to identify each rigging line.  There are some details that are not very clear on the plans, so I’ve had to research a few items.  I’m sure that I’ve got some things wrong, but I think my rigging notes are good enough to get me started.

In preparation, I’ve made the following documents:

• A diagram of all the rigging, prepared in Adobe Photoshop, that shows each rigging line using a color-coded line.  The different types of lines are on different layers, allowing me to turn them on and off to isolate lines by type.
• Diagrams of each line, showing how each line is attached, including what kind of splice, seizing, hook, shackle, etc. is used, as well as any blocks.
• A spreadsheet of all the lines, indicating the starting point, ending point, color, line size on the model, and where it is shown on the plans.

The spreadsheet assigns a unique number to each line so I can keep track of things as I’m working.  I’ve identified 89 different lines.

Types of Rigging Lines

There are two main ‘categories’ of rigging: standing and running.  I’ve never been on a boat, much less a sailing ship, so my knowledge is limited to what I’ve learned over the last couple of years.

From what I’ve seen,  standing rigging includes all the lines that hold the masts up.  These are typically fairly heavy, and are relatively ‘fixed’.  (They can be adjusted through lanyards and such, but they typically do not involve blocks or pulleys.).  Running rigging includes all the lines that hold up the sails and adjust how the sails are angled against the wind.

Standing Rigging

On model ships, standing rigging is often done with black rigging line.

The  shrouds are rigging lines that hold the masts up by their sides.  There are normally several shrouds for each mast.  The Bluenose has 4 shrouds for the each lower mast , on each side, for a total of 16.  It also has a shroud running down from the top mast , adding another 4.  These 20 shrouds are run down to the main rail, where they are secured to the deadeyes on the chain plates .

Finally, there are two top mast shrouds on the main mast, that run from the top of top mast to the trestle tree .

Stays  hold the masts on the fore and aft sides.  There are a number of different stays on the Bluenose.  A few run between the main and fore masts, while several others run down to the deck or bowsprit .

Running Rigging

Most (all?) of the running rigging on a model ship is done with tan rigging line.

The term  halliard comes from ‘haul yard’, and refers to lines that raise things.  The halliards tend to be some of the more complex rigging lines.  They typically have a number of blocks, and often weave back and forth.

The  lifts hold tings up, like booms.  The Bluenose has lifts for the main boom, the fore boom, and the jumbo jib boom.  A couple short  spreader lifts hold up the spreaders on the fore mast.

The term  tackle seems to refer more the actual pieces that form the pulleys.  However, there are a few lines on the Bluenose that the plans refer to as  tackles , so I’m using that term here.

The Bluenose has a tackle on the bottom of the main boom and fore boom.  It also has tackles for lifting the dories on both the port and starboard sides.

The  sheets are lines that control the corner of a sail.  They can keep tension, as well as control the movement of the sail.  Many of these seem to be capable of running on either the port or starboard side.

The  tacks are fairly simply lines that hold down the bottom corner of sails.

The  downhauls  run from the top of the sail down, and are used to pull the sail down when it is being stowed.

Miscellaneous Rigging

These might better fit under one of the other categories, but I’m separating them out into a  miscellaneous category because they a little different than the other lines.

Ratlines and Footropes

Ratlines are ropes that form ‘ladders’ on the shrouds.  These can be used to climb up to the upper portions of the masts.

Footropes are lines that are secured to things like the main boom and the bowsprit (not shown) where they extend outside the ship.  Sailors could stand on the footropes when they need to get out to these areas.

Flag Halliards

The  flag halliards are technically halliards (they lift something), but they are just used for flags so they tend to be pretty light/simple.  The Bluenose has three – one on the main mast, one on the fore mast, and one on the main gaff.

I didn’t bother to draw up the  clews , but these are noted on the plans so I’m including them here.  The clew lines seem to run along the edges of sails, and are used to pull up the corners of the sails.

There is a LOT of discussion online about what size rigging line should be used for the various lines.  Hardcore modelers use all kinds of resources to determine the precise size of rope that would have been used.  I’m not that fancy.

The Model Shipways Bluenose kit provides rigging line in a few different sizes: 0.008″ (very thin, like thread), 0.021″ (medium weight), and 0.028″ (thicker).  These don’t match what’s indicated on the plans.  The plans show a variety of thicknesses, like .006″, .012″, and more.

To make things a little more complicated, I’m replacing all the rigging line in the kit with line from Syren Ship Model Company .  The kit line is fine, but Syren’s is way better.  The sizes are not always exactly the same, so I went with what was close.  The 0.008″ kit line was replaced with 0.008″ Syren line.  The 0.021″ kit line was replaced with 0.018″ Syren Line.  The 0.028″ kit line was replaced with 0.025″ Syren Line.

I decided to use these lines as follows:

Blocks, Hooks, Shackles and Splices

Knowing where lines go and what size they should be isn’t enough.  The details matter.  Each line has its own unique usage of blocks, hooks, shackles, splices, etc.  Adding all these details accurately makes all the difference in the look of the model.

I’ll just touch on the basics here, and go into more detail about how I’m implementing each piece as I get further into rigging.

There are a number of pieces of hardware that go into the rigging.  All these little bits and pieces have specific purposes.  Some are supplied by the kit, while others have to be made from scratch.

Blocks are pulleys.  (Some hardcore ship guys would probably cringe at that statement, but that is the simplest, easiest explanation).

Rigging lines are run through blocks to make things easier to pull and lift.

On a model ship, the blocks are not actually functional.  They don’t have the little wheels.  Instead, they are just small wooden pieces with holes drilled through for the lines.  Depending on the ship, a kit might have many different sizes and types of blocks.

On the Bluenose, we have single, double, and triple blocks.  A single block has one set of holes, representing one ‘wheel’ in the pulley.  A double block as two sets, and a triple block has three sets.

The Model Shipways Bluenose kit provides blocks in a number of different sizes.  I’m only using the triple blocks.  All the others have been replaced by block from Syren Model Ship Company .  Syren’s blocks are much higher quality.

Blocks can be attached in a number of different ways.  I spent a lot of time going over the plans to determine how each block should be attached.  Typically, a hook or loop is attached to the block, which is then attached to a mast/boom/gaff, or to another rigging line.  I identified several different configurations:

• A block with a single hook attached.
• A block with a single loop attached.
• A block with a loop on both the top and bottom.
• A block with a hook on one end and a loop on the other.

Seizing a block and setting up the hook or loop is a skill that requires a lot of practice.  Many modelers have come up with creative jigs and techniques for this.

Several places in the rigging call for  hooks .  These are fairly simple metal pieces with a ring on one side, and hook on the other.  I make mine by bending brass wire.

Shackles are a little more complex.  A shackle allows a line to be secured in place, but removed at any time by removing the shackle’s bolt.  There are a number of ways to make them.  I’ve made some for the bowsprit , and my technique is covered there.

Deadeyes are typically round pieces that are used to secure the shrouds.  I installed some of these when I put the chain plates on .  Working on the deadeyes is one of my least favorite parts of rigging.

Deadeyes come in pairs, and each pair is held together by a lanyard.  This allows the lines to be adjusted to achieve the right tension.  Getting them all straight, tight, and even is a pain.

Securing the Lines

To secure the lines to all this hardware, a few different techniques are used.  On my first build, I simply tied knots for everything.  This time, I’m trying to do things better.   My usage of these techniques will not be accurate .   In many cases, I’m going to use simple versions of splices and seizings.

Eye Splices

I’ve written about eye splices before.  An eye splice is a loop in the end of the line, created by splicing the line back onto itself.  Eye splices are  much   easier to do before the line is attached (in any way) to the ship.  Try to do all your eye splices in advance.

Some places call for eye splices that have to be done in place on the ship.  In these cases, I’ll be ‘faking it’, but simply seizing the line to itself, wrapping it with thread, and hoping nobody notices.

Seized Loops

A seized loop is common on a model ship.  The end result is similar to an eye splice in that it creates a loop, but this technique allows you to tighten the line in place.  The line is looped around whatever it is being attached to, pulled tight, then tied to itself with thread.

Lanyards are used in a few places there things need to be pulled tight, but remain adjustable.  There are two main types of lanyards on the Bluenose.

The lanyards for the deadeyes are done in the traditional method.  There are many diagrams on how to do this.  The lanyard is run through the holes in the upper and lower deadeye, they tied off on the shroud.

In other places, like the spreader lifts, lanyards are used to pull the lines tight.  For these, I’ll tie the lanyard to the line, then loop it through whatever it is being attached to several times (eye bolt, bail, etc.).  Once I’ve got a few loops, I’ll tie it off again.

So, What Next?

Now that I have a plan for the rigging, it is time to get everything I can installed on the masts.  The goal is to get everything as complete as it can be before installing the masts.

Unfortunately, it is really hard to document and illustrate this as I go.  Also, it would be a little confusing for someone jumping in later looking for assistance with a particular line (they’d see one end of it installed now, and the other end installed much later).

So, to make it easier I’m not going to document the rigging prep I’m doing on the masts.  Instead, I’ll jump forward to once the masts are mounted, and fully document each line as I finish it.

Prepping all the rigging on the masts went fairly quickly, taking about a week.  Once the prep work was done, all the lines were labeled (I printed some labels).  Then I installed the masts.

Serious modelers will tell you not to glue your masts in – the rigging should hold it up if you do it right.  The advantage of that is that if you need to remove the masts in the future (repairing damage several years from now), you can.

I’m not good enough at rigging to pull that off, so I glued my masts in place.

Rigging lines and hardware installed on the masts.  Each line is coiled and labeled.

The coiled and labeled rigging lines look like a mess, but they are actually pretty well organized.  Each line is identified by the number from my spreadsheet as well as its name.

Messy, but still organized.

Now all I have to do is finish attaching all this stuff.

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Larry Robinson - Making Model Yacht Sails - how to build in their shape, a master class in sail making for modern rc model yachts. Around 700 copies sold by mid 2015 and still going strong.

If you want to know how to make well shaped rc model yacht sails, and make them efficiently and consistently, this contains all you need to know. The method used by the top sail makers for putting the 3D shape into the sails, as well as the luff shaping, is described in some detail. The design and construction of the all important moulds themselves is also dealt with at some length. Packed with other hints and tips and very well illustrated. A thorough master class in sail making for modern model yachts.

"Even those sail makers who have advanced to higher levels of their craft will find thought provoking ideas. Anyone thinking of testing the waters should be greatly helped and inspired by what they find here. In short it’s a master class in high precision sail making for R/C yachts."

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Mastering RC Model Yachting: Tips and Techniques

• By - Kyle Hilson
• Posted on November 14, 2023 April 11, 2024
• Posted in RC Boats

RC model yachts are miniature versions of actual yachts that are built to be controlled remotely. They are often used by hobbyists who enjoy building, racing, or sailing these models as a pastime activity. RC model yachts are available in different types, including sailing yachts, racing yachts, and scale models, each with their unique features and characteristics. Building an rc model yacht can be a fun and challenging experience, requiring specific tools and materials. Once built, a model yacht can be sailed on water surfaces, using techniques and maneuvers required for different scenarios, such as racing or leisure sailing. In this article, we will explore the different aspects of rc model yachts, from building and sailing to racing and maintenance, and provide tips and tricks for each area.

Types of RC Model Yachts and How To Build Them

• Some types of RC model yachts are:
• Sailing yachts: designed to mimic real sailing yachts and controlled using a remote control from ashore.
• Racing yachts: specifically designed for racing and may have different features than other types of RC model yachts.
• Scale models: scale replicas of real yachts and can be of different sizes depending on the scale model created.
• Hobbyists choose to build RC model yachts for different reasons, such as:
• Learning skills, such as model building , painting, and use of power tools.
• Customizing models to their preferences and styles.
• Having full control over the model yacht’s design and components such as the sails and rigging.
• Tools required for building an RC model yacht include:
• A hobby knife or scissors for cutting parts and sails.
• A spray adhesive for adhering sails to the model yacht.
• A sanding tool for smoothing out rough edges on model yacht parts.
• Websites such as Amazon, eBay , and RC Planet offer different types of RC model yachts, parts, and kits for sale.

What are some tools required for building an RC model yacht?

Tools required for building an RC model yacht include a hobby knife, sandpaper, pliers, scissors, a power drill, and a soldering iron.

Building an RC Model Yacht: Tips, Materials, and Tools

• Building an RC model yacht from scratch requires:
• A plan or blueprint for creating the RC model yacht
• The required tools and materials
• Knowledge and some level of expertise in model building
• Tips and tricks for building an RC model yacht include:
• Start with a simpler model kit before tackling a more complex one
• Follow the model kit instructions carefully and thoroughly
• Take your time and be patient, as building an RC model yacht can be time-consuming
• Use quality materials and tools to ensure a successful build
• An example of a simple plan to build an RC model yacht is listed below:

• Websites such as HobbyKing offer various RC model yacht kits, parts, and tools to build RC model yachts as a hobby.

What websites offer RC model yacht kits, parts, and tools for hobbyists?

There are several websites that offer RC model yacht kits, parts, and tools for hobbyists including Tower Hobbies, HobbyKing, and Model Yacht Fittings.

Tips for Sailing an RC Model Yacht

• Sailing an RC model yacht requires:
• Basic knowledge of sailing fundamentals such as tacking and gybing
• Understanding how to control the yacht using a transmitter
• Installing the sails and rigging on the yacht correctly
• A calm and flat body of water to sail on
• Tips and tricks for sailing an RC model yacht include:
• Familiarize yourself with your yacht and its behavior in the water
• Practice sailing on calm days to gain confidence and experience
• Always be aware of obstacles and other boats on the water
• Adjust the sails to suit the wind conditions
• Websites such as RCGroups offer forums and discussions on sailing techniques, tips, and product reviews for RC model yacht enthusiasts .
• Learning to sail an RC model yacht is a great way to improve your real-life sailing skills and can be a fun and rewarding hobby.

What websites offer forums and discussions for RC model yacht enthusiasts?

Websites such as Model Yacht Club, RC Groups, RC Universe, and Sailboat RC offer forums and discussions for RC model yacht enthusiasts.

Techniques and strategies for improving your skills in RC model yacht racing

• RC model yacht racing is a popular aspect of the hobby and involves:
• Racing against other RC model yacht enthusiasts
• Abiding by specific rules and regulations set by RC sailing clubs or organizations
• Competing in various races such as short-course , long-distance , and offshore races
• Training and practice are essential in RC model yacht racing, and there are various techniques and strategies that can be followed to improve your skills.
• Online retailers such as HobbyKing and Tower Hobbies sell a range of products for RC model yacht racing, including specially designed racing yachts and equipment .
• RC model yacht racing events can be found worldwide, and enthusiasts can participate in local, national, and international races .
• RC model yacht racing is a thrilling and competitive aspect of the hobby and offers a sense of camaraderie and sportsmanship with other enthusiasts.

What are some techniques and strategies for improving RC model yacht racing skills?

Some techniques and strategies for improving RC model yacht racing skills include practicing on a consistent basis, analyzing and adjusting sailing techniques, studying wind and water conditions, maintaining and upgrading equipment, and seeking advice and guidance from experienced sailors.

Necessary maintenance for optimal RC model yacht operation

• Maintenance is an essential aspect of keeping RC model yachts operating efficiently and effectively, and it involves:
• Regular checks and service of the yacht, battery, rigging, and sails
• Proper storage to protect the yacht from damage or weathering
• Cleaning of the yacht’s hull and equipment using appropriate cleaners and methods
• Replacement of any worn-out or damaged parts to ensure the yacht operates at optimal levels
• There are many online resources available that provide tips and tricks for maintaining an RC model yacht, including:
• Blogs and forums such as RCGroups and RC Universe , which provide hobbyists with a platform to share ideas, ask questions, and offer advice
• Online videos, tutorials, and manuals that provide detailed instructions on how to maintain different types of RC model yachts
• Online retailers such as Amazon and eBay that sell a range of RC model yacht maintenance products such as cleaners, oils, and spare parts
• Maintaining an RC model yacht properly not only increases its lifespan but also ensures that it operates efficiently and effectively, providing hobbyists with enjoyable and hassle-free RC sailing experiences.

What resources are available online for maintaining RC model yachts?

There are various resources available online for maintaining RC model yachts, including forums and websites dedicated to RC sailing, instructional videos, online manuals and articles on maintenance and repair.

In conclusion, RC model yachting is an exciting and engaging hobby that provides enthusiasts with the chance to explore the art of sailing in miniature form. Building, sailing, racing, and maintaining an RC model yacht can be a fulfilling and immersive experience that brings joy and satisfaction to hobbyists. With an array of RC model yachts available, including scale models, racing yachts, and sailing yachts, hobbyists can choose the ideal yacht based on their preferences and skill level. Moreover, the availability of online resources, including forums, retailers, and instructions, can assist hobbyists in their journey towards becoming skilled and experienced RC model yacht sailors. Whether you choose to sail solo or compete with other enthusiasts, RC model yachting is guaranteed to provide hours of fun and thrilling experiences. So why not try it out and dive into the world of RC model yachting today!

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Sail Trimming – By Roger Stollery

Sail trimming.

This article about Sail Trimming appears on the website by kind permission from the editor of Model Boats, Martyn Chorlton who commissioned the article.

Whatever boat you sail, the pleasure of seeing it sail and handle well will depend on how you set the sails before you go on water and what you do with your transmitter once your boat is afloat ( Photo1 ). Hopefully, the tips in this article may help to achieve that pleasure and they apply to all boats that are powered by a jib and a mainsail, irrespective of their size or class. It does not matter whether they are conventionally rigged, rigging less or swing rigged, as the wind cannot distinguish such things as it flows round the sails (Photo 2).

Before going afloat

Always check your sail trim before going afloat. Assuming that your mast is set up as the designer intended with the mast more or less vertical, the following things need to be adjusted; sail camber, boom angles, sail twist. Before making any adjustments, switch on and pull the sails in to your beating trim. Refer to the quick sail trim guide illustrated ( Photo 3 ).

Sail camber

The camber in the mainsail should vary approximately between 1-in-6 and 1-in-12, with less camber as the wind increases. The camber in the jib should be slightly less than that in the mainsail. As sails often have different amounts of fullness cut into them, depending on the manufacturer’s design, assess the camber setting in the area of maximum fullness, not just at the boom. A full cut mainsail may well need very little camber at the boom.

Boom angles

Your beating trim should bring the end of the main boom close to the centre line, but the jib boom should be at a greater angle as shown in the diagram ( Photo 4 ).

Adjust the jib camber so that the angle of the back of the jib doesn’t impinge onto the mainsail, as this will encourage back winding of that sail, which is not a good idea. The wind needs to funnel through the gap or slot between the two sails without undue restriction.

Whilst it is OK to set the boom angles at the bottom of the sails to encourage this airflow, it is most important that there is plenty of this gap or slot along the whole length of the back edge of the jib. This is to encourage the flow around the back of the mainsail, to increase its power.

Set the twist in the mainsail first. The amount of twist needs to vary with the wind strength with more twist in light winds and in very strong winds, but a good guide for light to moderate winds is approximately 1-in-40 (40mm in a 1600mm leech length). This should be assessed against the straight line of the backstay as shown in 3. No twist, as in 2, makes a boat a bit slow with a tendency to point higher and to feel ‘niggley’. Too much twist 1 also slows a boat down by the drag from a flapping leech, but is less serious than too little twist ( Photo 5 ). Then set the jib leech tension to match the shape of the mainsail leech. Assuming that the forestay is tensioned and that the

pivot point of the jib boom is approximately 20% of the length of the boom back from the tack, the jib leech line needs to be adjusted to achieve a jib leech shape that is more or less parallel to the mainsail leech shape, except a bit more open halfway up the jib, as shown in 3. In 1 there is no twist in the jib leech and the slot is closed down preventing a clean airflow getting to the mainsail. If in doubt err on having the slot more open, either by increasing the boom angle or increasing the leech line tension. Getting a good trim is getting a good balance between the various tensions so that the sails work well together and this can be done by testing how the sails perform in the wind ( Photo 6 ).

Trim testing

Test your windward trim by holding your boat into the wind, as if it were sailing as close as possible to windward with the sails fully drawing. Rotate the boat closer to the wind and observe which sail luffs first. With an ideal trim both should flap together as shown in the shaded area. If the front of the sail luffs first, then reduce the fullness in the sails, until both sails luff together. If just the main luffs first, open the slot with the jib boom angle or leech line adjustment or flatten the mainsail. Adjust and test several times until the ideal is approached. Always check your trim before launching and adjust to suit the wind conditions, which are always changing.

Wind indicators

These are two items of equipment which will help you to see the wind and how to trim your sails to its constantly changing direction and strength; a flag and tell tales. Without these you are to some extent blind as to what the wind is doing out there in the distance ( Photo 7 ). Photo 8

Click Here to download the lightweight wind indicator document

Setting up the rig

All the illustrations show what a good trim looks like and this next section describes how to achieve those shapes in more detail. Balanced swing rigs, where the yard rotates about the mast, and rather than the mast rotating, are the easiest to set up, because the forces in the jib ‘magically’ balance the forces in the mainsail. Once the camber in the sails and the jib sheet sets the slot at the booms, there is really only one adjustment to be made and this is adjusted by the bowsie at the head of the jib on the forestay. This automatically controls the amount of twist in both sails, so whatever the tension in this ‘kicking strap’ the shape of the slot retains the correct relationship.

This is the case for the BOTTLE boat as shown in the heading photograph and most rigs in the Footy class (Photo 9). Despite the sails of these boats being cut without any fullness, being double sided with the light polythene just folded round the mast, the fullness can be adjusted on the head stick in the same way as you would adjust the camber at the bottom of the sail at the boom as shown here ( Photo 10 ). Incidentally, the rules for the next America’s Cup demand this form of double sided mainsail.

On a Marblehead with this balanced rig, as well as adjusting the forestay this tension is balanced by the jib leech line to give the precise slot. The balance between the two sails also allows for the leech tensions to be very simply adjusted by the TX trim on the sheet whilst you are sailing ( Photo 11 ).

Most commonly used swing rigs used on Marbleheads and other classes have the ‘forward and aft booms’ rigidly fixed to the mast which rotates and whilst each sail has to be setup separately without any magical balance, at least the settings can remain the same each time you take the rig out of the sail bag.

Much more complex is the setting up of a conventional rig, as there are so many adjustments to be made in setting the rig up before you even start to adjust the trim. Illustrated is an IOM rig set up in accordance with the designer’s rigging guide with all the points of adjustment marked with a green star ( Photo 12 ).

Once the mast is in place, the shrouds need to be set up and it is very important that they are set up with even tension either side. This can be checked with finger and thumb on the shrouds either side of the mast and the shroud closest to the mast tightened so that these distances are the same ( Photo 13 ).

Once this is adjusted it is important to repeat the tensions and this can be done by the bottom of the bottlescrew connecting to the deck fitting with an L-shaped hook as shown on the deck of this fabulous wooden scale ENDEAVOUR J class. The bottlescrew can then be locked to repeat the tensions ( Photo 14 ).

In the fore and aft direction the mast needs to be set up using the forestay and the backstay. The aim is to produce a very gentle S bend in the mast aiming backwards a touch at the bottom, bending forward to the forestay and then being bent back by the backstay. The forestay needs to be tight, but to create this backstay tension is needed.

How much backstay tension will depend on the bend in the mast matching the shape of the luff of the mainsail. Too much tension will cause creases and the loss of mainsail leech tension. Too little tension and the mainsail may look too full with a hard leech as shown in the leech comparison 2. This is assuming that there is no ram.

If you do have a ram this can be used to create the desired mast shape. The ram can be set up so that when the mainsail is out on the run the kicker either tightens or slackens slightly. More ram will allow the kicker to slacken as the main boom goes out and less ram will allow the kicker and therefore the mainsail leech tension to tighten.

The kicking strap is a key adjustment and the amount of tension will depend on the wind conditions. In light of fluky airs, which we often encounter on our small enclosed lakes, less tension is always better than too much. The kicking strap will tighten the leech and by doing so will reduce the relative tension in the luff, so this needs to be adjusted to suit.

Finally, one more thing to check is that the jib is balanced and that the counterweight to the jib boom should be sufficient to keep it balanced so that it has no bias, which will help you to gybe the jib easily ( Photo 15 ).

Once afloat

Now is the time to go afloat and test your sail trim, because a perfect trim set up on the shore is only part of achieving a good performance. This effort will be wasted if the sail trim is not adjusted to relate to the constantly changing winds experienced on our enclosed lakes. Always come back and fiddle if

you are not happy. Many expert skippers bring their boats back and adjust their tensions a short time after launching to make sure it is adjusted perfectly for the conditions, which of course are always changing!

Sailing to windward is not just about pulling the sheets in hard and steering. In all wind strengths, easing the sheets helps restore speed immediately after a tack, for example. In very light winds your flag and tell tales may indicate that the wind has more off the side and requires the sheets to be eased to gain speed. Steering the whole boat closer to the wind may be too slow to take advantage of such a shift. Speed is everything in these conditions, so avoid using the braking effect of the rudder.

When reaching it is very important to let your sails out as much as possible to prevent the sails stalling and losing drive. If the flag at the masthead is making a big angle to the top of the sail, let your sails out. Lower down if the leeward tell-tale is not streaming, the airflow over the jib is stalled and the sails are pulled in too hard. This is the most common fault made by sailors of all sizes boats, not just models. It is so easy for radio sailors to pull that stick down hard in the excitement of racing in an attempt to go faster, but it stalls the sails and the boat goes slower.

So if in doubt, let them out!

When running downwind the tell-tales may not help, but keep an eye on the flag to make sure that you are on the most favourable gybe. Try and keep your wind clear of those behind, who are likely to take your wind and slow you down.

Watch and talk to the experts

The importance of good sail trim cannot be emphasised enough. It is all-important in vane racing, which is all about sail setting and getting the balance between the sails and the vane steering gear. This has made vane sailors masters of this art and you will rarely see vane sailor’s radio racing with a poor sail trim. Watch how top sailors set their sails and don’t be afraid to copy them. Many will be only too pleased to pass on their knowledge, so don’t be afraid to ask questions.

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Catsails are specialist manufacturers of sails and accessories for performance radio controlled model yachts.

Proprietor Nigel Brown has been sailmaking since 1980 and has worked in some of the top sail lofts across the World including building sails for 4 America’s Cup programmes.

Years of sailmaking experience at the highest level combined with the best materials, high standards of workmanship and attention to detail have resulted in truly top quality products that are well proven on racecourses around the world. All mainsails and jibs are shaped using carefully milled moulds which ensures accurate repetition and consistency of shapes from one sail to the next.

Nigel has been building sails for the International One Metre since 2005 with sail shapes and construction techniques being continually refined ever since. IOM sails are well proven on the race circuits having won races and regattas in Spain, Italy and Malta as well as in the UK.

In 2012 the range was extended to include sails for the popular Micro Magic class that instantly received great acclaim.

When the DragonForce 65 was launched in 2013 and the DragonFlite 95 in 2016 Catsails soon became one of the leading suppliers of after market sails for these popular boats and they are now shipped all around the world and have powered boats to national titles in a number of different countries.

Catsails additionally make high performance sails for the RG65 class to fit both swing and conventional rigs.

Catsails also make custom accessories that are designed to protect boats, rigs and foils whilst the boats are out of the water.

Mainsail Having spent considerable time producing sails with a perfect parabolic built-in curve, it would be a pity to spoil this aerodynamic wonder by distorting it when set on its spars and used for sailing. Attachment to mast I usually tie the sail to the mast using fine spectra cord.  The attachments are spread about 150 - 200 mm apart.  When attached this way, it is important that the sail is allowed to move around the mast to the leeward side.  Ties then should be sufficiently loose to allow this and have the same degree of looseness.  One way of achieving this is to tie the cord with a small piece of material of sufficient size in the loop.  The cord is tied firmly and the material removed to leave a uniform loose tie.  The material that could be used includes wooden skewer, knitting needle etc.  Ensure the knot does not slip!  A reef knot where the ends are fed through twice holds very well - if problems still persist use a small drop of ca glue.  Please avoid such adhesives from touching the sail material. The head is best attached to the mast through a pivoting mechanism.  This allows the head of the sail to fall off as it should in a breeze so the sail takes up an increasing twist all the way up the sail Luff tension should be maintained at a minimum, only enough to remove any wrinkles  in the lower section and sufficient to keep the luff near the mast and not blow away between the ties.  If in doubt use less tension as too much will distort the shape of the sail.  Generally the greater the wind strength, the more the luff tension needed. The mast must be set in a mast tube or mounted in such a way as to allow fore and aft adjustment.  Rigging should then start with the mast having a slight aft lean of about 20mm at the mast top with the jib connected.  There should be a mast preventer  adjustable to contact the mast near the boom attachment in a tension boom vang or near the compression strut in a compression vang system Backstay Tension Backstay tension is necessary to add tension to the forestay.   Sufficient tension should be added to pull the mast into a curve which almost matches the curve cut into the luff of the mainsail.  The mast preventer should then be adjusted to just contact the mast with a minimum of force.  The boom vang should then be tensioned to pull up the leech against gravity (i.e. boat on it's side) and still leave about 20-30mm below the plane of the mast and backstay when the boom is held in the centreline.  If no mast preventer is present then any increase in wind will cause the leech tension to increase pulling the mast head aft and pushing the lower mast forward.  This will twist the mainsail too much.  The mast preventer stops the forward movement of the lower mast and helps hold the mast top back so delaying the bend and the twist.  The forestay tension is initially determined then by the  luff curve built into the mainsail and affected by mast strength and the use of the mast preventer Jib Setup The wire luff forestay built into the jib is used to take almost all of the tension of the rig.  Tension in the luff of the jib should be at an absolute minimum because again tension will stretch the material and distort the shape of the sail.  For this reason, I never use a separate bowsie tension adjustment at the head of the jib as there is that tendency to put too much tension in it.  Instead. II tie the head to the end of the forestay wire and have a separate adjustment for the sail luff running through the front of the boom and back along the boom.  This way, once adjusted, it seldom needs much change.  As well, setting up the jib becomes easier as the top adjustment always seems to need adjustment as every time the forestay adjustment is moved, the jib luff also needs adjustment.  How many times have you seen people adjust the forestay by making it longer to rake the mast aft a little and the whole rig tension being taken by the sail luff resulting in a distorted and stretched sail.  I shudder every time and cannot keep from saying something. The other way that I see jibs being destroyed is in the use (or non use) of the jib topping lift.  There will be considerable tension in this line approximating about 1/4 the tension in the forestay.  This comes about because the pivot point on the jib boom is about 1/4 or 25% of the way back from the forestay attachment / tack of the jib.  Reducing the distance back from the tack to say 20% reduces the force at the topping lift and vice versa.  The topping lift must be tensioned to take all the load off the leech of the sail and allow it to fall away from the line by a small amount say 20mm or so.  Failure  to do this means all the tension can be taken by the leech of the sail and there is no better way to stretch the sail material and seams so ruining a jib!  Adjustment of the pivot position will change the tension needed in the topping lift.  More tension means the leech will not twist off till a higher wind strength.  Tender yachts with relatively large sails can benefit by having a smaller tension in the topping lift (e.g. IOM) so allowing the jib boom to lift and the jib twist off more readily than in a yacht with more self righting such as a Marblehead or Ten Rater.  Do not be tempted to bring the pivot point back much beyond the 25% mark as the sail as an airfoil can become unstable and flutter from side to side.  In addition, more of the sail is moved to windward in front of the pivot point and the slot between the jib and mainsail is closed a little - all negative influences on performance. Sheeting Angles The angle between the boom and the centre line of the yacht when the sails are close hauled and the yacht is sailing at its most efficient speed to windward is called the sheeting angle.  In general, the main boom is set to a relatively small angle about 5°.  This means a 300 mm boom will be set about 25mm from the centreline.  The jib boom must be set to a greater angle of about 10° which means a 300 mm boom will be set about 50 mm from the centreline.  These values will depend on many factors including the fullness of the sail, the twist in the sail and the wind velocity but the values given should serve as a starting point   Location of sheet attachment points on the booms is equally important.  When the sail control on your transmitter is moved from its close hauled position to its fully out position the main sheet will move sufficient distance to allow the main boom to move to a position at right angles to the centreline of the yacht moving through an arc of 85°.  As the jib sheet will move the exact same distance as the main sheet then if the jib boom is to move to a position at right angles it will move through an arc of only 80°.  This can only occur if the attachment point for the jib sheet on the jib boom is slightly further from the pivot point then the attachment point for the main sheet from its pivot point.  Typical values for the main is 220mm behind the gooseneck pivot and for the jib is 240 mm behind its pivot point.  To maintain this differential movement for the two booms, the pull from the sheet fairlead should be as horizontal as possible.  This means the mainsheet post should be as close as possible to the main boom and similarly for the jib fairlead.  This is really critical for the main as the amount of twist in the sail is controlled by tension in the boom vang so as the boom moves out, the twist stays much the same.  Any vertical component to the mainsheet at close hauled will effectively increase the downward pull on the boom and hence to maintain twist less vang pressure is needed.  As the boom moves out as in a reach, this vertical component in the main sheet rapidly reduces so the twist will increase significantly as the vang pressure is now too small and drive will decrease which is exactly what you don't want in a reach!  Trying to maximise the twist for a reach when the sail is half out will mean there will be too much down force on the boom at close hauled position, reducing the twist and causing the top half of the sail to stall as the leech is pulled too tight.  This situation is not quite so critical for the jib as the jib uphaul maintains the twist in the sail despite increases down tension on the jib sheet and the larger sheeting angle means the vertical component is less.  Nevertheless it is still wise to keep the jib boom as close as possible to the jib sheet fairlead and maintain as horizontal a pull as possible.      

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Rigging cord & thread.

Rigging on ships refers to the intricate network of ropes, cables, and supporting structures used to control the ship’s sails and masts. It played a vital role in maneuvering the vessel and harnessing the power of the wind to propel it forward. The rigging was carefully arranged and adjusted to maximize the efficiency of the sails and allow for different sailing maneuvers. It required the expertise of skilled sailors who understood the intricacies of rigging and could manipulate the ropes to optimize the ship’s performance in different wind conditions. Rigging was a complex and integral part of the sailing ship, enabling it to navigate the seas and carry out its intended tasks, whether it be exploration, trade, or naval warfare. Wooden Ship Model Fittings Rigging Cord & Thread come in a range of sizes. Our range of rigging cords are presented here. Note that Amati cords tend to be thinner than other brands of the same nominal thickness. Our cords come in fawn, grey, brown & black.

Popular Rigging Cord & Thread

Rigging Cord – Grey – 1.75mm x 10m – Mantua

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Rigging cord & thread categories, black rigging cord, brown rigging cord, fawn rigging cord, grey rigging cord, filter products.

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Rigging Cord – Grey – 2.0mm x 5m – Corel

Rigging Cord – Grey – 1.2mm x 10m – Corel

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The definitive guide to sailing yacht rigging

Related articles, superyacht directory.

Do you know your Bermudan rig from your DynaRig or wingsails? And which is best? BOAT explains it all...

Take a look at a modern racing yacht from above, beating to windward and heeled to the breeze, and you can see at a glance why Bermudan rigs have stood the test of time. With its fore and aft sails bladed into efficient aerodynamic shapes, a modern yacht can slice close to the wind and be driven hard. Such a sight would have been outlandish a century ago. Then, a typical trading barquentine could set 18 sails to catch light airs, but it needed a large crew to battle with canvas far out on the yards. In a modern miracle as incredible in its way as flight, today’s racing yachts can sail faster than the speed of the wind – in some cases several times faster.

A mainsail set on a single spar is an age-old concept but only in the 19th century was it adapted as the Bermudan or Marconi rig. A one-piece mainsail set on a mast without a gaff, hoisted with one halyard and controlled by one sheet, was simpler and more efficient. This revolution became the power train of pleasure yachting and racing.

But perhaps the time is coming for a re-evaluation of simpler rigs requiring fewer crew – alternatives with lower loads operated by automated systems. In an era of reduced carbon consumption, could more radical sailplans even herald a revival in sail power?

The evergreen Bermudan rig

The Bermudan rig is the all-rounder, able to perform well at all angles of sail. It is efficient upwind, while downwind the sail area can be significantly boosted with a big gennaker or spinnaker. For good reasons, it is the first choice for nearly every modern sailing yacht up to around 60 to 65 metres for cruising and regatta racing alike. At larger sizes, however, things start to become trickier, and the trade-offs get interesting.

Over the last decade, sail handling technology has steadily advanced to allow sloop rigs to grow larger and larger. “But with that comes a highly loaded rig, many tonnes of compression from tension in the rigging, and you have to build structure in the boat to accept that,” explains Paul MacDonald, founder and superyacht sales manager of Southern Spars.

“You have to have a lot of deck gear and captive winches below decks and the machinery for that. But over the years, boom furling systems and MPS [Multi Purpose Sails for downwind angles] stored on a drum, for example, have made sail handling safer.

Bill Tripp is the designer behind the 86-metre Aquijo , which broke new ground in 2015 as the world’s largest Bermudan ketch. Tripp prefers to call the rig a "sketch", a portmanteau word for a rig that is neither a sloop nor a ketch “because the main and mizzen are identical”. Even though the sailplan is divided over two masts, each spar is still a towering 90 metres above the water. Aquijo perfectly illustrates the issues involved with a Bermudan rig when scaled up.

“The sloop is great but I prefer the ‘sketch’ for sailing around the world under full control due to the desirability of a two-masted rig for reaching ability, which dominates passages, and the safety of controllable loads when sailing in all kinds of conditions miles from nowhere,” he says.

Upwind, Aquijo sets a jib, staysail, mainsail and mizzen, all in North Sails 3Di, totalling 3,821 square metres. A furling Code sail for reaching and downwind angles increases that to a vast 5,051 square metres.

While Aquijo has a crew retinue of 17, it can be controlled under sail by six or seven people. With custom winches to handle halyards and sheets, the sails can be hoisted astonishingly quickly for such a large rig. “It takes five minutes to put the main up, on average, and the main and mizzen can go up at the same time,” Tripp says. Aquijo has now sailed 100,000 nautical miles around the world and the owner is planning another circumnavigation through the Northwest Passage.

Tripp is not convinced of the wisdom of a much larger single-masted sloop rig. “If you are day sailing in the Med, a sloop would be awesome, but I am not sure if you had fewer sails you would be able to [reduce canvas] well enough. Also the mast is a windage problem when the keel is up and you are beam-to. If you are on anchor, that’s no problem but you’d have to be able to cope with being on the docks in 70 knots. The windage at 120 metres is not only more but the centre of effort is so much higher, and so the heeling loads all go up.”

However, British designer Malcolm McKeon , the name behind the high-performance, sloop-rigged carbon composite superyachts Missy and Ribelle , is pushing the sloop rig to new heights. His 85-metre design concept Apex, developed with Royal Huisman , would be the largest sloop-rigged yacht in the world. “The loads are enormous,” he admits, “but it is all scalable.”

“The big disadvantage is sail handling. The downwind sails are pretty complicated once you start hoisting and retrieving, even with drum and reel systems. It is not straightforward.” But, he adds, “I think we know the advantages of a sloop: if you want all-round performance you can’t beat it, even at the top end.”

Advantages of a clipper rig

The DynaRig has been around as a concept since the 1960s when German engineer Wilhelm Prölss devised these free-standing, rotating rigs as a fuel-saving solution for large commercial vessels. The idea was ahead of its time, so much so that its first realisation came nearly 40 years later when American owner Tom Perkins bought the residual technology and commissioned Dykstra Naval Architects to create a three-masted DynaRig for Maltese Falcon , his 88-metre Perini Navi.

The DynaRig is not as efficient upwind as the Bermudan rig, and is probably not the best solution for a yacht smaller than around 65 metres, suggests Jeroen de Vos of Dykstra. “We wouldn’t advise putting a DynaRig on a small yacht because there are other ways to manage sail handling. But on a larger yacht the DynaRig becomes an alternative because there is no rigging, no highly loaded sheets, low-tech [small] sails and no big winches.”

The beauty of the DynaRig is that its automatic systems can be handled by one or two people and, notes de Vos, “you don’t have to get out of your chair to go sailing. Maltese Falcon can sail on and off the anchor and can set 2,400 square metres of sail in six minutes. On other boats it takes six minutes to get the sail cover off.”

Damon Roberts of Magma Structures, which built the rigs for Maltese Falcon and the only other DynaRig yacht to date, the 106-metre Black Pearl , says: “You can do any manoeuvre easily; it’s like sailing a dinghy. There are no highly loaded sheets or ropes or flogging lines. You can luff up, bear away, tack and gybe at  any time and really enjoy sailing the boat without any apparent fuss.”

So with all these advantages, why has the DynaRig been chosen for only two sailing superyachts? For some designers, such as Malcolm McKeon, it is partly to do with compromises imposed by the large mast tubes and bearing diameters on the internal structure and layout, “particularly in the cockpit area,” he says. He also points out that the clipper ship look is not to every owner’s taste. “Sloops are more conventional looking,” he says.

Damon Roberts says there is still development work to be done. He has teamed up with Southern Spars and, with their additional resources, expects evolution with several new projects. “These include two at the moment that are twin-masted DynaRigs,” he says. “We did quite a lot of wind tunnel work early on as we felt that was really the sweet spot for it, and people will be stunned at how efficient these are.”

The future of the wingsail

Wingsails have been around for decades too, but with their adoption by the last two America’s Cups and the confluence with foiling technology, they have undergone rapid and revolutionary development.

To date, there is no proven solution for reefing a wing that would be suitable for offshore cruising or ocean passages. As the pronounced aerodynamic “nose” at the leading edge of a wing can develop force in strong winds, they could potentially make a large yacht uncontrollable in port as well.

“How do you get rid of sail and how does [a boat] handle when caught out in heavy wind conditions – which you will be? How do you keep the angle of attack all the way up the rig and how do you handle squalls?” Roberts asks. “A mechanism to reduce sail might be easy to sketch out but it is difficult to engineer.”

Jeroen de Vos says: “The wingsails are more developed towards performance and I wouldn’t say that they are as practical as soft sails or would ever make handling easier. But if somebody wants that, why not? Reefable soft sails, wings that are inflated, hoisted panels, possibly these are applicable. The development of this area is happening very rapidly.”

Paul MacDonald of Southern Spars agrees that the time is not here yet but thinks it will come. “In reality we are in the early days of wings. For the America’s Cup, they are the most efficient way of sailing by a long shot, but with them comes handling issues, which the industry hasn’t resolved yet. But I am sure they will be in 10 years’ time. Designers such as VPLP are starting to [work on concepts] and we are going to see something that is usable and efficient and suitable for ocean work eventually,” he says. “And whatever the solution is, you imagine that it will scale.”

Looking to the future

A drive for greener superyachts could present an opportunity for sail, but perhaps it needs to be less daunting.

“There is this intimidation of sheets and backstays, and sailing is a language you don’t learn in a year,” Tripp says. “But we have a project we are doing now with a yard with some new rig technology and some soft wings that we think is going to be viable.

“We can uncomplicate sailing more. If we can win people over from motorboats it will help, but we are only winning these battles one or two at a time. We need [more] projects like Sailing Yacht A , which are something really different, and do more things better with less energy. We as architects need to elicit change.”

McKeon also sees change coming. “People are more and more concerned about keeping their image green and sails are the way to do that,” he says. “Simpler sailing systems are needed. The current generation is used to Bermudan sloops. In years to come, the traditionalists will all be gone, and maybe new people will be more accepting of [different ideas]. I think in the future we will certainly have wings.”

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NYLET 92 years - Sailmakers and 'Fine Products' since 1932. Large range of mast & deck fittings. See photos on this page.

Fittings, wires (stainless steel), lines & cordage, increasing choice of screws, nuts & bolts, in brass as well as stainless steel. also tools. aluminium tubing (incl 7075). iom rig bags & 'how to' booklets. look in our price list first, 500 items (fittings in section e). fine products - quality first - everything for the model yachtsman, since 1932. makers of model sails to the national maritime museum cornwall..

We offer a wide range of top quality mast & deck fittings for model racing yachts, including rigging screws, bowsies, chain plates, deck eyes, spreader sets and kicking straps, etc. A large selection of line & wires and stainless steel & brass screws, bolts & nuts. Rig fittings packs and deck packs are also available for IOM, Marblehead and 36 inch yachts (see price list). Specialist fittings include ballraced kickers. We suggest that you look at the photos of fittings (below) to be sure that you select the parts that you require. We offer a quick turnaround on orders thanks to our high stock levels. The fittings we list are those that are currently in production, see section/s E in our price list (for which click on 'main pages'). Aluminium tubing for masts & booms, also available in 7075 (stiffer) quality. Nylet 'How To' booklets & books, see section A in our price list. Tough IOM rig bags with 3 compartments and carry handle. Also lead ballast bulbs and sail winches. For more detailed info just click on any of the "read more" buttons. Click on 'contact us' for phone numbers/email/postal address. Please see customers comments on this and various other pages.

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Mast and deck fittings are available as separate items and also packs (see our price list).

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Deck fittings.

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Some fittings in more detail.

For the full listing in price list, see section E1

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56 years of nylet model yacht fittings fine products world-wide mail order since 1958. makers of model sails to the national maritime museum cornwall..

We offer quality mast & deck fittings for racing yachts, including rigging screws, bowsies, chain plates, deck eyes, spreader sets and kicking straps, etc. as well as a large selection of screws & wires and cordage. Rig fittings packs and deck packs are also available for IOM, Marblehead and 36 inch yachts (see price list). Quick turnaround on orders thanks to our high stock levels. The fittings we list are those that are currently in production. See the price list for other items such as 'How To' booklets & books, IOM rig carry bags, lead ballast, sails & sail winches.

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