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I have noticed several posts that result in various discussions about tension and adjustments of the standing rigging. The information available in the owners manual for the MacGregor 26S that I purchased used was of very little help. MacGregor was not very specific on the subject. If you push your boat hard, race your boat, or sail in winds subject to high velocities or gusts, then getting rig tension correct could prevent loss of the entire rig. Improper tensioning can result in hardware failures, excess stress to chainplates or deck fittings, and poor or sail trim. I have found various sail manufacturers will have rig tuning information on their web sites. These can be very helpful but not necessarily specific to the boat model. Also, since MacGregor didn't provide details, I looked to other boat manufacturers of boats similar in design and performance to the 26S for guidance. One item I believe to be essential to proper turning and adjustments is a Loos Gage. It typically comes with rudimentary instructions for use and basic tuning guidance. They run about $90. Rigging tension will change for a vessel that is adjusted on land and then launched (not be much but will be different). Also, it will change after about two or three weeks from initial tensioning. Rig tension should be checked every 6 to 10 months. I have provided one sail manufacturers suggestion for rig running below. Harry, please forgive me for not asking before posting: Tuning a Rig with Swept Aft Spreaders In my article on Controlling Headstay Sag I focused mainly on conventional rigs with in-line spreaders. On those rigs your adjustments are done mostly with the backstay, runners, and checkstays. Tuning a rig with swept aft spreaders and shrouds is quite different because in these rigs a large component of both headstay sag and mast bend are controlled through shroud tension. These rigs are most often found on boats with jibs that don't overlap the rig. To start you need to understand what the individual shrouds do, and what effect changing their tension will have. Your rig will have an upper shroud, also called the V1 or cap shroud, which runs from chainplate at the deck up to the hounds or point where the headstay attaches to the mast. It will have a lower shroud, called the D1, which goes from the chainplate to the base of the first spreader. If you have multiple spreaders you will also have diagonal shrouds that runs from the tip of the spreader below to the base of the spreader above. With a two spreader rig this would be called a D2, with a three spreader rig you will also have a D3 and so on. These diagonals may pass over the end of the lower spreader and continue to the deck where they are adjustable or you may have "discontinuous" rigging where each of the diagonals terminates at the end of a spreader where it will be adjustable. The V1 shrouds center the top of the mast in the boat but since they also pull aft they tighten the headstay and induce pre-bend in the mast from the compression load. The D1 shrouds support the sidewise load in the middle of the mast and since they are pulling aft on the middle they will also control how much pre-bend you have. If you have have a two or more spreader rig the upper diagonals, D2's, D3's, etc. will control the sidewise bend in each section where they are attached. Tuning one of these rigs takes some time because your ultimate goal is to reach a point where you have the correct amount of pre-bend, at the same time that the mast stays straight sideways, at the same time you have the correct amount of headstay sag. Start by setting the mast with the desired amount mast rake. This is set only by the length of the headstay; make it longer and you have more rake, shorten it and you will have less. The boat designer, if available, will have an amount he designed for the rig when he developed the rig and hull package. If you are sailing in a one-design class there will probably be tuning guides developed by the top sailors in the class that will give you a rake measurement. In the absence of either one of those try starting out with about 1 degree of rake. That is an amount that is often used by designers and should certainly be close enough for a good starting point. 1 degree equates to about 4" of rake for every 20 feet of mast. Next you will need to know how much pre-bend you should have in the rig. The spar makers should be able to give you a measurement for the amount of pre-bend they designed the mast to have, or again if you are sailing in a good one-design class there will be tuning guides with the amount of pre-bend that has been proven to work in the class. With this information at hand start with a basic "dock tune". With all the diagonal shrouds slightly loose start tightening the V1's, measuring as you go to keep the top of the mast centered in the boat. Tighten them to the point that you have about 25% more pre-bend in the mast than your designed spec. Next tighten the D1's enough to pull the pre-bend back to the desired amount while sighting up the mast to see that it is straight side to side. If you have other diagonals go ahead and tighten them just enough to take the slack out, again sighting the mast as you go to keep it straight side to side. The final tune has to be done while sailing. You should do the initial tuning in light to medium air with just the main up and then as you dial that in work up to more wind. Start by sailing hard on the wind and sighting up the mast, it helps to make notes as you go. First look at the leeward V1, if it is very loose you will need to tighten both V1's equally to keep the top of the mast centered. Take up turns on the leeward V1 enough to take about 1/2 of the slack out of it. Now tack over and tighten the other V1 the same amount. Now look at your pre-bend, since you have tightened the V1's the mast will have a little more pre-bend so tighten the D1's enough to pull the bend back to the desired amount. do this by tightening up the leeward D1 a turn or two at a time, tacking over and adjusting the D1 on the other side. You have to keep sighting up the mast on each tack to be sure your are keeping the middle of the mast centered. Once the D1's are set move up to any other diagonals you have, adjusting the leeward side a turn at a time, tacking over and adjusting the other side as you go. If you have discontinuous rigging this has to be done by a crew member that is aloft so he can adjust the turnbuckles that are at the ends of each spreader. Once your are satisfied that the mast has about the right amount of pre-bend and that it is staying straight side to side, you can start on you final tuning that involves fitting the rig to you sails. Your mainsail should have been built to match the amount of pre-bend the rig builder specified but you can change the amount of pre-bend slightly to make it fit better if needed. Do not reduce the amount of pre-bend to less than the specified amount! Next hoist the jib and sail up wind with it, tacking back and forth a few times while checking the mast to see that it is still straight. At the same time look at the headstay sag and how full the jib is. If you have too much headstay sag when you have enough backstay tension on to make the main look good you will need to tighten up the rig. Tighten up the leeward V1 by two or three turns and tighten up the leeward D1 by half that amount. tack over and do the same on the other side while looking the mast to see if the ratio you used between the V1's and D1's was about right to keep the mast straight side to side. You may have to adjust the D1's a little more or a little less and then re-adjust any other upper diagonals you have. This is a slow process and needs to be done in different wind conditions to really get it right. You will find that to really do it right you will need to adjust the shroud tensions differently for different wind conditions. This need to be done by tuning in the different conditions while sailing with the jib you will use in those conditions. Each jib is cut for different amounts of headstay sag so the overall rig tension has to be changed to match that sag. On boats with multiple jibs you shouldn't have to adjust the rig very much because the jibs should have been designed to work in a narrower range and cut to match the headstay sag you get. On boats that sail with only one or two jibs you will need to adjust the rig a lot more to make the jib work over a wider range. Make sure you record the exact settings you start with and how much you change it for different conditions. This is often done by having a "base" setting and then keeping track of how many turns on or off you put on each turnbuckle as conditions change. This works but it is very easy to lose count of exactly what you have done. A much better way is to get a dial caliper that costs around $25.00 and measure the distance between the studs inside the turnbuckle. Record these numbers in your rig notebook for the different settings. That way you always have a number you can come back to no matter what happens, if you get confused about how many turn you went in which direction, or even if you pull the rig out. Getting back to your desired setting is just a matter of tightening each turnbuckle to the desired measurement. This whole process is slow and usually an ongoing process. Each time you race you should record the conditions, the rig settings, and your results. If the results weren't what they should have been make small changes in the rig to match the mast bend and headstay sag to what you needed to do better. Write it down each time and you will develop your own set of settings that work for you boat and your sails. Harry Pattison President Elliott/Pattison Sailmakers
Great information Thanks for sharing
By: Pat Reynolds Sailboats
Generally speaking sailors are an opinionated bunch but, as a baseline, are okay with any boat you choose because at the end of the day, you’re still sailing and that’s a good thing. Oh, except for one boat – the MacGregor 26M. That boat can start a fight. What do you mean? It’s just a little day sailor with twin rudders, retractable keel for easy tailoring and a relatively spacious cuddy cabin, perfect for overnighting – how on earth could that annoy anyone? We’ll get into it, it does.
None of this makes immediate sense, but the mention of a MacGregor 26M makes eyes roll… in slow motion… all the way around. There are cases of sailors going to the emergency room from rolling there eyes too hard when someone mentioned the MacGregor 26M – that’s how severe all this is. Oh, and to make things a bit more confounding, it’s the best selling cruising sailboat there is – the company (that has now closed it’s doors when owner Roger MacGregor retired) sold over 38,000 boats. So, let’s get down to it. What is the issue?
The MacGregor was designed and marketed to non-sailors or would-be (sort of) sailors. It seems the company gave deep consideration towards something of a fictional demographic – a group of people who didn’t have any great knowledge of sailing but who like the idea of it. They assumed these people would probably not embrace the low speeds associated with traditional sailing – might be a deal breaker, so they slapped a big fat outboard on the transom and that problem was solved! Some MacGregors have engines as large as 70-HPs and can top 20-knots. MacGregor critics have said many times: “ If you try and make something that’s both a powerboat and a sailboat, you’ll end up with the worst of both. ” This may be true, but it’s safe to say most MacGregor owners don’t care. They just dropped the main and took off to beat the rain and get home for dinner. To this critique many M26 sailors will say, “ enjoy that squall while I enjoy my medium rare Porterhouse! ”
Another characteristic that bothers traditional sailors about the MacGregor 26 M is the design or “lines.” There are none. It’s really more of a powerboat blueprint but the boat does have some innovative elements like, for instance, a water ballast system that compensates for the lack of a keel, a rigging system that helps get the boat rigged in around 15-minutes, a rotating mast and a sliding galley that provides for accommodating more passengers. The high freeboard design isn’t sexy, but it does allow for a surprising amount of room down below. The little boat sports two large double berths/two singles, a dinette, galley, six-feet of headroom and a fully enclosed head.
This is another area where new MacGregor boat owners rejoice and critics scoff. A new boat, loaded, was around $35,000 in 2013 when they stopped producing them, but now used M 26M’s can be found for $20K or less. The scoffers believe there is no price point that will ever tempt them into stepping foot on a MacGregor 26. The boat, for some, represents a cheapening of the sport – a stripping away of the elegance and dignity that sailing withholds, leaving us with a mutant powerboat that wants to call itself a sailboat when the mood strikes. Not a pill purists will swallow.
Like them or not, one thing that is indisputable about the MacGregor 26 M is they have brought many non-sailors into the sailing universe. More than a few owners have gotten the sailing bug because they could afford it and then moved towards boats that were designed expressly for sailing.
We say live and let live. If you want to buy tarps and a dowel at Home Depot and fasten them to a canoe, that’s cool with us – as long as it’s safe. Although we’ll admit, when it comes to the MacGregor 26M, we’d much rather see you raise the sail and feel that heel than see you fire up that 70 h.p. and pull the waterskier around the lake. Besides, it’s cheaper to sail!
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Macgregor 25 is a 25 ′ 0 ″ / 7.6 m monohull sailboat designed by Roger MacGregor and built by Macgregor Yacht Corp between 1973 and 1987.
Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
The first version was called the VENTURE 25. With relatively few changes, it became the MACGREGOR 25 (around 1980). With more than 7000 boats sold, it’s one of the most popular models from this builder.
Masthead Rig: I: 28.3’ J: 9.75’ P: 24.5’ E: 10.5’
Photo of Venture 25 courtesy Adam Hunt.
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Rigging a Macgregor 26x. First of all, I think the video is a lie. Trick photography with the speed increased. Something David Copperfield would be proud of. There's no way that you can rig a Macgregor that fast. The boat does have a nice system to pull the mast up. But there's all these wires, connections, ropes, sails, bolts, wires, more ...
A forum for discussion of how to rig and tune your boat or kicker to achieve the best sailing performance. Forum rules. 27 posts 1; 2; Next; returnofthemac Deckhand Posts: 36 Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2022 1:52 am Sailboat: MacGregor 26M Location: Austin, TX. Resource / Guide for basic rigging? Post by returnofthemac » Sat Aug 13, 2022 4:31 am.
Jun 9, 2020. #5. Rigging the jib and main sail should be similar to the MacGregor 26D manual attached. Where are you located? I helped a couple in central California rig his MacGregor 26D last weekend and showed them how to utilize available hardware including blocks, cleats, jam cleats, and winches.
Re: 1983 Macgregor 25 Rigging Questions. by Tomfoolery » Thu May 25, 2017 1:54 pm. It's a bit thin, but if it's anything like the X, you'll end up with something like 300 lb tension on the upper shrouds, and a bit less on the lowers, with the backstay slack and no sails hoisted. Most folks use their MRS to unpin the forestay and back the mast ...
Apr 11, 2020. 746. MacGregor 26s Scott's Landing, Grapevine TX. Jun 15, 2024. #2. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people at this forum. A few other great resources include: MacGregorSailors.com - Index page. and.
Sailboat: MacGregor 26X Location: Hermiston, OR-----2001 26X DF-50 Suz-----(Now Sold) Re: Macgregor 22 - Standing Rigging Specs ... Temporary rigging doesn't have to be fancy - it just has to hold the mast square to the boat (port-starboard), with the proper amount of rake. Then you can make marks on what you have now, or add some temporary ...
Angle to stern. The 25 does't need as much as the X. I think I set mine at 3-4". Use a string or topping lift with a plumb bob or weight on it secured to the back of the mast head. Subtract the distance from the mast to the fastening point for the line. Make sure your back stay is not attached when setting the rig. W.
This is a full set of factory spec rigging for the 26S/26D, priced about $15 less if you buy it as a set. Includes standard 1/8" headstay and backstay and 5/32" upper and lower side shrouds with male stay adjusters swaged on. All of our rigging is high quality stainless wire and stainless swage fittings.
View and Download MACGREGOR 26X owner's instructions manual online. 26X boat pdf manual download. ... Rigging the Mast. Bowline Knot. Securing a Line to a Cleat. Spreader Tubes. Main Halyard. ... Sailboat macgregor 25 (7 pages) Related Products for MACGREGOR 26X. MACGREGOR 26 M 2009; MacGregor 26;
Bolt it to the hinged mast step with a 1/4" x 4" bolt and lock (nylon insert) nut. The 1/4" bolt hole in the mast is near the spreaders. Put a rubber washer on the bolt on each side of the mast to keep it from wearing on the hinged mast step. Make sure the nut is tight. If it comes off, things could get very bad.
The mast is a 7/8 fractional rig with swept-back spreaders and two shrouds; spreaders are mounted in sockets on the mast, an improvement over the original 26. MacGregor constructs the spar from 3″ x 4″ extrusions with wall thicknesses of 1/8″. Standing rigging is 1/8″ 7 x 19 wire on the stays, and 5/32″ 1 x 19 for the shrouds.
Notes. As sail/power 'hybrids', both the M and X models are designed for use with a more than 'auxilary' sized outboard (rated for 5-50hp) and water ballast. Dry hull weight: 2,350 lbs. The MACGREGOR 26M replaced the MACGREGOR 26X in 2003. A similar version later reintroduced from another builder as the TATTOO 26 (2013).
REAR MAST SUPPORT WIRES: (BACKSTAY) Lay the mast on the ground. Start at the top and install the rear mast support wire (31' 4 1/2") to the stainless fitting at the top of the mast as shown in Photo 2. Note that the end with the stainless steel strap does not go on the mast. Use a 1/4" x 11/2" bolt and lock nut.
SailNet Archive Discussion starter. 87689 posts · Joined 1999. #1 · Jan 18, 2010. Hi everyone, I just acquired a 1985 Macgregor 22. Its missing all the running rigging including sheets and blocks. Can any tell me where I can get a picture of what I'm missing or a manual or something?
Our Price: $695.00. MAST, BARE EXTRUSION, 3" X 4" X 24'. Our Price: $695.00. Now available again, CDI is under new ownership and back in production. This is the complete roller furling system for all MacGregor models. You will also need the deck hardware to lead the control line to the cockpit and a headstay compatible with the furler.
The information available in the owners manual for the MacGregor 26S that I purchased used was of very little help. MacGregor was not very specific on the subject. If you push your boat hard, race your boat, or sail in winds subject to high velocities or gusts, then getting rig tension correct could prevent loss of the entire rig.
A new boat, loaded, was around $35,000 in 2013 when they stopped producing them, but now used M 26M's can be found for $20K or less. The scoffers believe there is no price point that will ever tempt them into stepping foot on a MacGregor 26. The boat, for some, represents a cheapening of the sport - a stripping away of the elegance and ...
Our running rigging calculator can instantly spec lines for more than 5,000 sailboats. Just select your boat below and you're a couple clicks away from new, top quality rigging. We've reduced the choices to a minimum to make ordering as simple as possible. (If you prefer more choices, please see our Running Rigging Builder.)
Roger MacGregor tells how it started. Roger MacGregor - The Golden age of Sailboat Production. Safety Decal. Original Macgregor Promotional Video. Original 26X Factory Video. Original 26M Promotional Video. 26X Line Drawings. Macgcgregor Factory Photos 26X. Macgregor Website Archive.
The first version was called the VENTURE 25. With relatively few changes, it became the MACGREGOR 25 (around 1980). With more than 7000 boats sold, it's one of the most popular models from this builder. Masthead Rig: I: 28.3′ J: 9.75′ P: 24.5′ E: 10.5′ Photo of Venture 25 courtesy Adam Hunt.
Macgregor 25 is a 25′ 0″ / 7.6 m monohull sailboat designed by Roger MacGregor and built by Macgregor Yacht Corp between 1973 and 1987. Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts. ... Masthead Rig: I: 28.3' ...
MacGregor 25 with fractional rig. The MacGregor 25 is a small recreational keelboat, built predominantly of fiberglass, ... a one-time Ford employee, may well be credited with doing the same thing for the cruising sailboat. The popular MacGregor 25 was the flagship of his line for 14 years. With a swinging keel - a MacGregor invention - that ...
It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5