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Rigging a Macgregor 26x – the first time

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If you believe the following video, Macrgregor sailboats can be setup in under 15 minutes by a single person. So if you have a team of four, you should be ready to go in four minutes, right?

First of all, I think the video is a lie. Trick photography with the speed increased. Something David Copperfield would be proud of. There’s no way that you can rig a Macgregor that fast.

The boat does have a nice system to pull the mast up. But there’s all these wires, connections, ropes, sails, bolts, wires, more connections that someone assumes you know all about. I had watched the video, several times, and flipped through the 12 page owner’s manual so of course I knew exactly what I was doing.

You can find a PDF of the manual here (and a great resource for Macgregor sailboat owners):

  • Macgregor Sailboat Manuals (macgregorsailors.com)

My problem was that I couldn’t get the CDI furling jib to connect! This is the critical part of the setup. The forestay within the furling jib is what keeps the mast from crashing down on your head. Using the mast raising system to pull the mast forward to make the connection I got close. But no matter what I did I couldn’t connect the forestay with the clevis pin (I didn’t even know what a clevis pin was) to the stainless steel fitting at the nose of the boat.  I was always 4cm away. It was so close and so frustrating!

IMG_2601.jpg

Went back and made sure the backstay was loosened off and all the shrouds were untangled. Finally after an hour I gave up and lowered the mast right back down to the mast carrier. That’s when I figured out the forestay cable was twisted and wrapped at the top of mast. Untwisting this gave me 4 extra cm of length to my forestay and I was able to connect it within a few minutes.

IMG_2613.jpg

One day I hope to be more like Erik in the video above, but today it took me 5+ hours to rig our Macgregor.

I’ve documented how to raise the mast here: Raising the mast on a Macgregor 26x

Related Posts:

Raising the mast on a Macgregor 26x

June 4, 2016

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MACGREGOR 26X Owner's Instructions Manual

  • MACGREGOR Manuals
  • Owner's instructions manual

MACGREGOR 26X Owner's Instructions Manual

  • page of 25 Go / 25

Table of Contents

  • Side Support Lines
  • Mast Raising Pole
  • Adjusting the Mast Support Wires
  • Lowering the Mast
  • Mast Raising Line
  • Forestay Connection
  • Ramp Launching
  • The Water Ballast System
  • Mast Appearance after Proper Tuning
  • Upper Shroud
  • Cross Section of Hull
  • View from Rear
  • Filling the Tank
  • Checking the Level of the Tank
  • Closing the Water Valve and Air Vent
  • Check to Make Sure the Valve and Vent Are Sealed
  • Returning the Boat to Its Trailer
  • Connect the Boom to the Mast
  • Emptying the Ballast Tank
  • Mainsheet Attached to Boom
  • Feeding Mainsail Onto the Boom
  • JIB (Forward Sail)
  • Trucker's Hitch, Top Loop
  • Trucker's Hitch, Complete
  • Mainsail Attachment, Lower Rear Corner
  • Genoa (Option)
  • Centerboard
  • Reducing the Area of the Mainsail (Reefing)
  • Centerboard System Side View
  • Centerboard System Front View
  • Special Safety Warnings
  • Foam Flotation
  • Boat Maintenance
  • Trailer Maintenance
  • Limited Warranty
  • Bleeding the Brake System
  • Axle Maintenance
  • Trailer Light Care
  • Glossary of Sailing Terms
  • General Information
  • Rigging the Mast
  • Bowline Knot
  • Securing a Line to a Cleat
  • Spreader Tubes
  • Main Halyard
  • Forestay and JIB Halyard Block
  • Preparing for Trailering
  • Secure All Gear
  • Carrying the Mast on Top of the Boat
  • JIB Halyard (JIB Hoisting Line)
  • Preparing the Trailer
  • Securing the Boat to the Trailer
  • Tire Pressure
  • Hitching up
  • Towing the Boat and Trailer
  • Attaching the Mast Support Wires to the Boat
  • Hydraulic Surge Brakes
  • Side Shrouds and Stay Adjuster Channels
  • Raising the Mast
  • Raising the Mast with the Optional Mast Raising System
  • Backstay and Stay Adjuster Channels
  • Connecting the Forestay

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MacGregor 26 (newer model)

This hybrid powersailer is so popular that the company has a year- long backlog of orders. its an inexpensive entry level sailboat also capable of towing a water skier..

MacGregor Yachts, one of the largest builders in the US, has a well-established reputation as the producer of inexpensive boats. Located in Orange County, California, its plant sits across the street from the former headquarters of Westsail and Islander in a neighborhood that in 1973 built more than 24,000 boats with a retail value of $88 million. A year later, the number of boatbuilders shrank from 46 to 22. MacGregor endured by sticking to a business plan that is strong on financial and management principles and devoid of romance.

The company was founded by Roger MacGregor as a hobby following his successful completion of the MBA program at Stanford University, where he graduated Phi Beta Kappa, second in a class of 200; he had previously graduated Phi Beta Kappa with a degree in economics from Occidental College.

MacGregors studies at Stanford produced a business model based on the sailboat industry that he eventually used as the blueprint for the company. In 1964, while employed at Ford Aerospace, he began building boats as a hobby. Wife Lou, who is still active in the business, oversaw the embryonic stages of the company.

In 1967, when I was finally making more money from the hobby than my real job, I moved into boatbuilding full time, he recalled.

Since that modest beginning the company has built more than 37,000 boats in its 65,000-square-foot factory, and has annual sales of $10 million. It employees 150 people.

Initially marketed under the Venture brand, the name was changed to MacGregor in 1977. Though the company focused on 22- to 25-foot fiberglass sloops, it made a foray into the big boat market in the 1980s with the MacGregor 65 ULDB, which MacGregor claims was the most successfully produced big boat in the industry. A decade earlier, MacGregor built a 36′ catamaran.

Unlike many industry doomsayers, MacGregor doesn’t agree that the sailboat market has dried up; he thinks people have lost interest because of a perception that sailing is too complicated. To attract newcomers to the sport, he builds boats that are simple to operate, require little maintenance, and are low-priced. His 28-page owners manual is written in everyday English, and includes basic sailing instructions. He also has recruited a loyal dealer network that understands the product and caters to first-time buyers.

MacGregors strategy is to concentrate the entire production effort on one boat so as to amortize production and tooling costs over a long run.

Over the years we have zeroed in on the 26-footer for a number of reasons. It is the largest boat that can be easily and safely trailered and launched, and economically shipped in containers.

Originally introduced as the 26X, the new model replaced an earlier MacGregor 26, a water-ballasted sloop previously reviewed in PS (November 1, 1987 and August 1, 1995); 7,000 of the first model were produced. Since its introduction in 1995, 4,000 of the new 26s have been built, and the company enjoys a backlog of orders stretching into 2001. MacGregor sees no need to increase production, which currently turns out one boat every two hours.

The Design The 26X, conceptually similar to the powersailers built by Lancer in the 1980s, represents MacGregors attempt to reach several markets with a boat capable of sailing at 7 knots and powering at 20-plus knots.

From an aesthetic standpoint, the boat gets average marks. Viewed from the bow, with an entry angle of 18, it has a conventional appearance. Viewed from the beam, its high topsides are evident. Freeboard amidships is 3′ 5″.

Unlike the rounded sections of her predecessor, the new model has a flat, straight bottom designed to enhance planing while under sail or power. It also has a harder turn of the bilge, which translates to a higher initial righting moment. Some owners say the boat will carry a genoa in 15-18 knots of wind before reefing the main or shortening the headsail.

The boat displaces 3,750 lbs. with full tanks; the sail area/displacement ratio (SA/D) is 19 and the displacement/length ratio (D/L) is 138, which indicate the potential for speed.

However, MacGregor says, these figures don’t mean much because crew and gear weight is such a big part of the all up weight. He said that every 100 pounds of weight in the boat reduces speed under power by one mile per hour.

Construction MacGregors theory is that he can sustain his success by eliminating inconsistencies and waste from the production process. Fiberglass fabrics used in the lay-up are cut in patterns and bundled in sequence for laminators.

The hull, deck and interior liners are solid, hand-laid fiberglass, and MacGregor brags that theres not a chopper gun in the factory; instead, workers use low-volume airless guns to wet out resins. No cores are used.

He is particularly rankled by critics who claim his methods are quick and dirty.

We have the neatest, most tightly controlled plant on the earth, and these boats arent failing, he said.

The lamination schedule calls for a layer of 1-oz. mat, followed by 10-oz. cloth, a layer of 1.5-oz. mat, 24-oz. roving, and layers of 1.5-oz. mat and roving. High-load areas in the centerboard trunk and bow have 15 layers of fiberglass built to a thickness of 3/4″; low-load areas are 3/16″-3/8″ thick.

The hull-deck joint is two outward-turning flanges that are secured with stainless steel bolts and locknuts with nylon inserts located on 4″ centers. The joint is bonded with 3M 5200 and the seam is covered with a rubber rail.

The liners are bonded to the hull with 6″ wide strips of mat and roving.

Boats built since spring 1999 have a new deck structure. Older boats have a balsa-cored deck and companionway hatch. The new deck is stiffened by a series of solid fiberglass U-shaped beams with an outer flange bonded to the inside of the deck. The beams, which are on 4″-6″ centers, are filled with foam, over which are laid layers of 1.5-oz. mat; the deck liner is then laid over the deck, which compresses the foam and bonds the deck and liner.

MacGregor said the new method produces a stronger structure and avoids the problems of rot with balsa. The process also reduces weight by 125 lbs.

Water ballast is carried in a chamber that runs from 3′ forward of the transom to the V-berth; it is 4′ wide and acts as a longitudinal stringer. It is enclosed by a fiberglass module bonded to the hull.

This leaves precious little area below the sole for a bilge. Because there is no way to inspect the bilge without looking behind the galley, there is no way of knowing how much water is in it. The company now drills a 1/2″ hole in the sole below the companionway to allow bilge water to appear on the floor of the main cabin.

Without the hole it is possible for the boat to collect a really large, stability-threatening load of bilge water, MacGregor said. Since the liner floor area is essentially a watertight tub, the skipper had no way of knowing until it reached the level of the cutout in the face of the galley.

I prefer a more obvious warning. When he steps in the cabin and ends up with water up to his ankles he will get the message. I recommend owners of older boats make a similar hole, being careful not to drill into the water tank.

One owner said cleaning up bilge water on the sole is messy.

A company video shows that, will full ballast tanks, the boat is self righting. With 120 lbs. of pressure on the jib halyard, the mast lay in the water, and immediately popped upright when the halyard was released; MacGregor said the limit of positive stability is about 115.

MacGregor also claims the boat has positive flotation; the same video shows a boat still floating that is filled with water halfway up the cockpit floor. Flotation is Styrofoam blocks in the cockpit coaming, bow, and under the anchor locker.

As weve written before, water ballast doesn’t produce as stiff a boat as lead, but because you can drain it on the ramp (or dump it underway going 8 knots or faster), you don’t have to tow it down the road.

The centerboard is hollow with drain holes, the bottom of which is filled with resin. It weighs 25 lbs., compared to 600 lbs. in the original 26. The board retracts into the hull, thus avoiding potential damage while launching and loading.

Access to deck hardware and wires is via liner plugs mounted throughout the boat; access to the motor mount and rudder mount are through a hatch in the stern.

The mast is a 7/8 fractional rig with swept-back spreaders and two shrouds; spreaders are mounted in sockets on the mast, an improvement over the original 26. MacGregor constructs the spar from 3″ x 4″ extrusions with wall thicknesses of 1/8″. Standing rigging is 1/8″ 7 x 19 wire on the stays, and 5/32″ 1 x 19 for the shrouds.

Despite criticism that the rigging is too light, MacGregor said, These rigs just don’t come down.

Chainplates are bolted through the hull with stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts. They are strong enough that during construction they are used to remove the hull from the mold;

Deck The cockpit and deck are typical of boats this size; however, there are no side decks so movement forward is over the cabintop. There are lifelines running from the stern pulpit to the base of the bow pulpit; owners with small children would be well-advised to install safety netting at the bow.

Deck hardware consists of two Lewmar #6 winches and cam cleats for the centerboard and furler lines, vang and halyard, located atop the cabin. The centerboard raises easily from the cockpit.

The helm is a movable seat on the transom behind a steering pedestal; cockpit seats are more than 6′ long, and wide enough to be comfortable for most adults.

Because of its size, the small stainless steel steering wheel looks out of place in the cockpit; however, it is reachable from the helmsmans seat, or the rail.

The mainsheet terminates at a padeye atop a stainless steel pipe inside the pedestal. Though the mainsheet arrangement is convenient to the helmsman, we think a sailor intent on proper sail shape will be frustrated.

MacGregor disagrees. The vang (a $69 option) will control the leech adequately.

The boat is equipped with twin rudders, which improves handling when heeled, and provides space on the transom for up to a 50-hp. motor. The rudders raise easily with ropes cleated on the transom.

The motor is raised electrically from controls on the steering pedestal. One boat we inspected had the cables hidden under a polypropylene strip on the cockpit sole, and on another boat they were led through a hole in the side of the cockpit aft through the stern.

A stainless steel rod attached to the rudders and the front of the motor allows moving them simultaneously.

We were alarmed at the location of the factory-installed stern ladder, which is mounted between the port rudder and the engine, close enough to the engine propeller to be a hazard. Todd McChesney of Bluewater Yachts in Seattle, with whom we sailed, installs a ladder fabricated in Seattle that is mounted outboard of the rudder, a better alternative.

Accommodations The area belowdecks feels spacious, a reflection of the 90″ beam, lack of bulkheads or visual intrusions, shiny gelcoat surfaces that are devoid of any wood trim, and reasonable headroom. The company advertises standing headroom. We measured 510″ headroom at the foot of the companionway, but theres less amidships.

Accommodations include a king-sized berth below the cockpit, galley and two settees to port, head and dinette to starboard, and V-berth large enough for two adults.

Though the boat is advertised as having sleeping accommodations for six, MacGregor says thats two too many. The aft berth measures 90″ x 78″, and has enough headroom to use the hull as a backrest. The forward V-berth is 76″ wide at the head, and the dinette converts to a double that measures 80″ long and 41″ wide.

Except for a smoked Plexiglas door enclosing the head, the entire area is wide open, so privacy curtains fore and aft would be high on our list of additions.

The dinette is elevated, providing virtually 360 sight lines through fixed ports, forward hatches and the companionway hatch-a good touch. The table, which is nearly 36 inches square, has a clever feature-a clear acrylic insert flush with the surface of the table under which a chart can be placed. The aft dinette seat is 41″ wide and 18″ deep; the forward seat is slightly smaller.

Stowage below the forward seat extends to the V-berth, and stowage for a removable 48-quart ice chest is located below the aft seat.

The head is marginally large enough to allow showering. It is 25″ wide, 40″ long, and has 57″ of headroom. The only furnishings are a molded sink, small storage area, and a mirror on the bulkhead. A porta-potty is equipped with a holding tank.

The galley is quite small. Counter space consists of several 4″ x 5″ ceramic tiles, a molded fiberglass sink with a freshwater faucet, and cutout for an optional two-burner stove. The galley could use more stowage.

The finish of stowage areas isn’t great; we found rough surfaces on the hull as well as fiberglass shards that can produce cuts.

Performance We tested the boat on a dead calm day so were able to try her agility under power. We had to rely on owner comments for input about sailing characteristics.

Because of its high profile and hull shape, upwind performance is average at best. Most owners opt for a CDI roller furler, a $495 option.

I usually allow 95-105 for a tack, the owner said. Absolute perfect sailing is in 10-15 knots of wind on a close reach. Ive sailed the boat in as much as 35 knots with reduced sail.

Gene Arena, a dealer who has represented MacGregor in San Francisco since 1968, said the boats fare well in the bays gusty, lumpy conditions.

We have to reef this boat sooner than a typical 25′ keel boat, he said, but even novices learn to sail the boat quickly. We typically put the first reef in when wind speed reaches 15-20 knots; when wind speed exceeds 25 knots we tuck in the second reef and reduce the headsail to 65%.

The calculated jib sheeting angle is 11, but Arena said, I don’t think this boat points as well as the old 26 because it has more windage and a different hull shape, so the best bet is to foot off 10.

An owner who sails regularly on San Francisco Bay said, My wife and I sail the boat regularly in 20-knot winds with no problems. With a reef in the main, shes stable and sails well, heeling about 15. But Id never take her into blue water.

Another owner, who sails off the coast of Northern California, said, We typically have 15-20-knot winds, and long 8′-10′ swells, which she handles easily. I think this is an outstanding boat. I was knocked over 50 by a 40-mile per hour gust, and she popped right up and nothing broke.

A Puget Sound sailor, who said he usually sails the boat under shortened sail, records speeds of 8 knots on a broad reach with the genoa. I also like the fact that the bigger motor allows me to fight the heavy current we experience in the Northwest, he said.

The PHRF handicap is between 240 and 250.

MacGregor claims top speed under power exceeds 20 knots, which we confirmed on our test with a boat powered by a 50-hp. outboard. A 9.9-hp. will push the boat at 6-7 knots, a 25-hp. at 12-14 knots. Most buyers opt for the 50-hp. motor. But the added weight of the big outboard has its downside. One owner said, The boat ends up with too much weight aft with 180-230 pounds of motor on the stern, ballast tank, gas tanks, and passengers.

In addition to straight-ahead speeds, we made 360 turns at 18 knots with relative ease and noted that the boat stays relatively flat. In choppy seas, the flat bottom could be expected to pound.

As for its seaworthiness, Roger MacGregor said, The 26 was designed for typical small cruising boat use-inland waters and limited coastal sailing. It is too small to be a long-distance passagemaker. It wont hold enough gear and supplies, and the long-term, day-after-day motion of a small, light sailboat can be tough on the crew.

There are thousands of these boats out there, and many have been caught in, and survived, some really extreme weather conditions, on both lakes and oceans. Like most small cruising sailboats, the 26 can handle high winds and nasty seas, but risk and discomfort levels increase dramatically in severe weather. To maximize fun and safety, most of our owners wisely keep a watchful eye on the weather and try to avoid severe conditions.

Conclusion Theres no question MacGregor is building an inexpensive product that sells for $4,000-$6,000 less than its primary competitors. The list price for boat, sails and trailer is $14,995 FOB the factory. Genoa and gear, roller furling, cruising spinnaker, vang, mast raising system, stove, cushions and transportation jump the price to $17,000; add $5,000-$7,000 for engine and electronics.

They also enjoy relatively high resale. Two-year-old boats on the market are selling for 85%-90% of their original prices.

The owner of a recent model sums it up well, She is fast enough to be pleasurable, forgiving enough that I can be stupid, balanced enough that I can be lazy.

The two-year warranty covers all parts manufactured by MacGregor.

Contact- MacGregor Yacht Corp., 1631 Placentia, Costa Mesa, CA, 92627; 949/642-6830.

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I’d like to add that my MacGregor 26 M has as much room as some 35 footers. I bought it new in 2006 and I will never tire of it! It is the “Jeep” of sailboats, it can float in 12″ of water, and can drive right up on the beach. With a 4-stroke Merc 60 hp, she’ll do 21 mph fully loaded (actually overloaded). She’ll get up on a plane and you’re gone, baby! And at terrific fuel mileage. She sails ok but you won’t win any races, however it wins points being able to sail on a beautiful sunset evening, with nothing but music and no engine noise. She is amazing and people are curious to see how it functions and love it. In Puget Sound the weather changes quickly, but you can get home or back to safe harbor lickity-split, Thank you Roger MacGregor! Mike Jones “Antares”

There is so much information to read I’m wondering if the information to be processed is still relevant. I learn so much about the Mac Gregor 26. This sailboat sounds to amazing to be true in todays market prices. Just starting to to research and there are a lot of older ones out there for sale. Millions dollar question -wait and get new or get old to learn as I go knowing a boat will be more costly so I have to have some throw-away cash on the side

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Need Help rigging a Macgregor 22

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Hi everyone, I just acquired a 1985 Macgregor 22. Its missing all the running rigging including sheets and blocks. Can any tell me where I can get a picture of what I'm missing or a manual or something? I have standing rigging and sails but nothing to hook them up. Any info would be great!  

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Here you go: Venture 21 Brochure  

The backstay on my Mcgregor 22 is broken! What do I need to buy to replace it?  

macgregor sailboat rigging

Call Macgregor they are stiil in business  

Send the old one to riggingonly.com and they will make a replacement.  

Thanks for the reply and the advice. There are no sailors I can find on this beautiful Lake Norfork! How sad, but I will get my little sloop on this lake and sail her! Just having a challenge remembering where everything goes. Mysin concern is the daggerboard. It needs to be checked, and there is nobody who knows anything about it here. Wish me luck! I'm in Mountain Home, AR after living in St. Louis all my life. A little different .  

My wife and I also retired to Arkansas. We have a Macgregor 22 and were just thinking of Northfork. Have you sailed on the lake much? Anyway, how did your break? Did your mast fall? Anyway, that is a stainless tang that is attached by a single stainless bolt on the aft bulkhead. Is there a place in St. Louis that might have it? We travel there frequently. Jeff Rector, AR (In Northeast Arkansas)  

Hey Jeff! I got my boat down here from St. Louis and found the backstay broken; there was no accident. Most of my sailing has been done at Carlyle Lake in Carlyle, Il, on other boats than mine. So I am on my own for the first time without support. I have not sailed Norfork ,but have a beautiful view of it from my new log home. Can't wait! I think it will be tricky because there are a number of turns and direction changes. Come sail it with me!  

I cannot reply to your friend request. The site says you are not on the list, ha! Try again when I know more.  

Well, I am a brand new user. just registered today, so yea, probably not on the list yet. My wife Mary is back in the hospital today as she battles cancer. Frequently we go to Barnes Jewish in St Louis. Today she is in the VA hospital because of blood chemistry problems. As soon as she gets over this stuff, I would love to come and sail with you. Have you called Macgregor yet to see if the part is available directly from them? If not, I would imagine we could fabricate it but working with sheet stainless is difficult. Jeff Jeff Puckett Tag Line: Life isn’t about waiting for the storm to pass it’s about getting out and dancing in the rain.  

Hey Jeff, I'm so sorry that Mary is in conflict today. I am ordering wire to replace my backstay. Next I need to have someone look at my keel. There is a lot to look at, but I'm sure it is probably necessary. I am also looking for a small motor. I think I'll get the Suzuki 6 for 1400 hundred. Hope Mary is feeling better.  

What is wrong with the keel?  

Nothing was wrong the last time I sailed it, but I have never checked it for wear, or lubed it and I know there are several things that can be bad; cable, bolts etc. I need to fi d someone here who can do that.  

Amoungst other things, I am a light sport aircraft mechanic and have a nifty fiber scope that I use to look at places on an aircraft that you can not see otherwise. If you do not find a sail mechanic, perhaps in a week or so let me know and I can bring you my scope and we can take pictures of the cable where it connects to the KEEL. I believe it would fish in through the same hole as the winch cable. We can look for fraying and such, and take photos for records. email [email protected] jeff  

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  • MacGregor Boat Parts
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$999.00

$695.00

$695.00





$354.00

$335.00

$279.00
. This part is CDI part #2010 or "B" in the diagram.

$265.00

$265.00

$189.00
This is the newer winch style mast raising system for use on all MacGregor and Venture boats except the 26M. This system can be used if you don't have a mast raiser at all or if you want to update a block and tackle style system to the newer winch style.

Most boats will need some additional hardware, especially if you don't have any mast raiser at all now.

This system is very specific to the MacGregor Mast and MacGregor hardware and is not sold for or intended to be used on other brands of boats.



$169.00

$159.00

$150.00
This kit includes all the parts you will need to convert an existing block and tackle style mast raiser to the newer winch style. You will need a good mast raising pole with all of its standard hardware and your existing side support wire assemblies to make this kit work. If you do not have a good pole order the complete kit, part #3418-1M0 for the 26M or #3418-1V0 for all other MacGregor or Venture boats.

Installation of this kit requires that you drill 2 new holes in the mast raising pole to mount the winch and 1 hole in the mast for the mast raising bail.
. This part is part "E" in the diagram.

$139.00

$129.00

$113.00
. This part is CDI part #2011 or "J" in the diagram.

$102.00

$99.00

$99.00
. This part is CDI part #1807 or "F" in the diagram.

$99.00

$85.00

$79.00


$78.00

$74.00

$73.00
. This part is CDI part #1932 or "K" in the diagram.

$69.00

$69.00

$69.00


$66.00

$64.00

$63.00


. This part is CDI part #1033 or "E" in the diagram.
   
 

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Standing rigging adjustments and tuning

  • Thread starter MccNeo
  • Start date Sep 15, 2016
  • Macgregor Owner Forums
  • Ask A Macgregor Owner

MccNeo

I have noticed several posts that result in various discussions about tension and adjustments of the standing rigging. The information available in the owners manual for the MacGregor 26S that I purchased used was of very little help. MacGregor was not very specific on the subject. If you push your boat hard, race your boat, or sail in winds subject to high velocities or gusts, then getting rig tension correct could prevent loss of the entire rig. Improper tensioning can result in hardware failures, excess stress to chainplates or deck fittings, and poor or sail trim. I have found various sail manufacturers will have rig tuning information on their web sites. These can be very helpful but not necessarily specific to the boat model. Also, since MacGregor didn't provide details, I looked to other boat manufacturers of boats similar in design and performance to the 26S for guidance. One item I believe to be essential to proper turning and adjustments is a Loos Gage. It typically comes with rudimentary instructions for use and basic tuning guidance. They run about $90. Rigging tension will change for a vessel that is adjusted on land and then launched (not be much but will be different). Also, it will change after about two or three weeks from initial tensioning. Rig tension should be checked every 6 to 10 months. I have provided one sail manufacturers suggestion for rig running below. Harry, please forgive me for not asking before posting: Tuning a Rig with Swept Aft Spreaders In my article on Controlling Headstay Sag I focused mainly on conventional rigs with in-line spreaders. On those rigs your adjustments are done mostly with the backstay, runners, and checkstays. Tuning a rig with swept aft spreaders and shrouds is quite different because in these rigs a large component of both headstay sag and mast bend are controlled through shroud tension. These rigs are most often found on boats with jibs that don't overlap the rig. To start you need to understand what the individual shrouds do, and what effect changing their tension will have. Your rig will have an upper shroud, also called the V1 or cap shroud, which runs from chainplate at the deck up to the hounds or point where the headstay attaches to the mast. It will have a lower shroud, called the D1, which goes from the chainplate to the base of the first spreader. If you have multiple spreaders you will also have diagonal shrouds that runs from the tip of the spreader below to the base of the spreader above. With a two spreader rig this would be called a D2, with a three spreader rig you will also have a D3 and so on. These diagonals may pass over the end of the lower spreader and continue to the deck where they are adjustable or you may have "discontinuous" rigging where each of the diagonals terminates at the end of a spreader where it will be adjustable. The V1 shrouds center the top of the mast in the boat but since they also pull aft they tighten the headstay and induce pre-bend in the mast from the compression load. The D1 shrouds support the sidewise load in the middle of the mast and since they are pulling aft on the middle they will also control how much pre-bend you have. If you have have a two or more spreader rig the upper diagonals, D2's, D3's, etc. will control the sidewise bend in each section where they are attached. Tuning one of these rigs takes some time because your ultimate goal is to reach a point where you have the correct amount of pre-bend, at the same time that the mast stays straight sideways, at the same time you have the correct amount of headstay sag. Start by setting the mast with the desired amount mast rake. This is set only by the length of the headstay; make it longer and you have more rake, shorten it and you will have less. The boat designer, if available, will have an amount he designed for the rig when he developed the rig and hull package. If you are sailing in a one-design class there will probably be tuning guides developed by the top sailors in the class that will give you a rake measurement. In the absence of either one of those try starting out with about 1 degree of rake. That is an amount that is often used by designers and should certainly be close enough for a good starting point. 1 degree equates to about 4" of rake for every 20 feet of mast. Next you will need to know how much pre-bend you should have in the rig. The spar makers should be able to give you a measurement for the amount of pre-bend they designed the mast to have, or again if you are sailing in a good one-design class there will be tuning guides with the amount of pre-bend that has been proven to work in the class. With this information at hand start with a basic "dock tune". With all the diagonal shrouds slightly loose start tightening the V1's, measuring as you go to keep the top of the mast centered in the boat. Tighten them to the point that you have about 25% more pre-bend in the mast than your designed spec. Next tighten the D1's enough to pull the pre-bend back to the desired amount while sighting up the mast to see that it is straight side to side. If you have other diagonals go ahead and tighten them just enough to take the slack out, again sighting the mast as you go to keep it straight side to side. The final tune has to be done while sailing. You should do the initial tuning in light to medium air with just the main up and then as you dial that in work up to more wind. Start by sailing hard on the wind and sighting up the mast, it helps to make notes as you go. First look at the leeward V1, if it is very loose you will need to tighten both V1's equally to keep the top of the mast centered. Take up turns on the leeward V1 enough to take about 1/2 of the slack out of it. Now tack over and tighten the other V1 the same amount. Now look at your pre-bend, since you have tightened the V1's the mast will have a little more pre-bend so tighten the D1's enough to pull the bend back to the desired amount. do this by tightening up the leeward D1 a turn or two at a time, tacking over and adjusting the D1 on the other side. You have to keep sighting up the mast on each tack to be sure your are keeping the middle of the mast centered. Once the D1's are set move up to any other diagonals you have, adjusting the leeward side a turn at a time, tacking over and adjusting the other side as you go. If you have discontinuous rigging this has to be done by a crew member that is aloft so he can adjust the turnbuckles that are at the ends of each spreader. Once your are satisfied that the mast has about the right amount of pre-bend and that it is staying straight side to side, you can start on you final tuning that involves fitting the rig to you sails. Your mainsail should have been built to match the amount of pre-bend the rig builder specified but you can change the amount of pre-bend slightly to make it fit better if needed. Do not reduce the amount of pre-bend to less than the specified amount! Next hoist the jib and sail up wind with it, tacking back and forth a few times while checking the mast to see that it is still straight. At the same time look at the headstay sag and how full the jib is. If you have too much headstay sag when you have enough backstay tension on to make the main look good you will need to tighten up the rig. Tighten up the leeward V1 by two or three turns and tighten up the leeward D1 by half that amount. tack over and do the same on the other side while looking the mast to see if the ratio you used between the V1's and D1's was about right to keep the mast straight side to side. You may have to adjust the D1's a little more or a little less and then re-adjust any other upper diagonals you have. This is a slow process and needs to be done in different wind conditions to really get it right. You will find that to really do it right you will need to adjust the shroud tensions differently for different wind conditions. This need to be done by tuning in the different conditions while sailing with the jib you will use in those conditions. Each jib is cut for different amounts of headstay sag so the overall rig tension has to be changed to match that sag. On boats with multiple jibs you shouldn't have to adjust the rig very much because the jibs should have been designed to work in a narrower range and cut to match the headstay sag you get. On boats that sail with only one or two jibs you will need to adjust the rig a lot more to make the jib work over a wider range. Make sure you record the exact settings you start with and how much you change it for different conditions. This is often done by having a "base" setting and then keeping track of how many turns on or off you put on each turnbuckle as conditions change. This works but it is very easy to lose count of exactly what you have done. A much better way is to get a dial caliper that costs around $25.00 and measure the distance between the studs inside the turnbuckle. Record these numbers in your rig notebook for the different settings. That way you always have a number you can come back to no matter what happens, if you get confused about how many turn you went in which direction, or even if you pull the rig out. Getting back to your desired setting is just a matter of tightening each turnbuckle to the desired measurement. This whole process is slow and usually an ongoing process. Each time you race you should record the conditions, the rig settings, and your results. If the results weren't what they should have been make small changes in the rig to match the mast bend and headstay sag to what you needed to do better. Write it down each time and you will develop your own set of settings that work for you boat and your sails. Harry Pattison President Elliott/Pattison Sailmakers  

Great information Thanks for sharing  

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MacGregor 26M

Cruising Boat Spotlight: The MacGregor 26M

By: Pat Reynolds Sailboats

Generally speaking sailors are an opinionated bunch but, as a baseline, are okay with any boat you choose because at the end of the day, you’re still sailing and that’s a good thing. Oh, except for one boat – the MacGregor 26M. That boat can start a fight. What do you mean? It’s just a little day sailor with twin rudders, retractable keel for easy tailoring and a relatively spacious cuddy cabin, perfect for overnighting – how on earth could that annoy anyone? We’ll get into it, it does.

None of this makes immediate sense, but the mention of a MacGregor 26M makes eyes roll… in slow motion… all the way around. There are cases of sailors going to the emergency room from rolling there eyes too hard when someone mentioned the MacGregor 26M – that’s how severe all this is. Oh, and to make things a bit more confounding, it’s the best selling cruising sailboat there is – the company (that has now closed it’s doors when owner Roger MacGregor retired) sold over 38,000 boats. So, let’s get down to it. What is the issue?

That outboard!

The MacGregor was designed and marketed to non-sailors or would-be (sort of) sailors. It seems the company gave deep consideration towards something of a fictional demographic – a group of people who didn’t have any great knowledge of sailing but who like the idea of it. They assumed these people would probably not embrace the low speeds associated with traditional sailing – might be a deal breaker, so they slapped a big fat outboard on the transom and that problem was solved! Some MacGregors have engines as large as 70-HPs and can top 20-knots. MacGregor critics have said many times: “ If you try and make something that’s both a powerboat and a sailboat, you’ll end up with the worst of both. ” This may be true, but it’s safe to say most MacGregor owners don’t care. They just dropped the main and took off to beat the rain and get home for dinner. To this critique many M26 sailors will say, “ enjoy that squall while I enjoy my medium rare Porterhouse! ”

High freeboard

Another characteristic that bothers traditional sailors about the MacGregor 26 M is the design or “lines.” There are none. It’s really more of a powerboat blueprint but the boat does have some innovative elements like, for instance, a water ballast system that compensates for the lack of a keel, a rigging system that helps get the boat rigged in around 15-minutes, a rotating mast and a sliding galley that provides for accommodating more passengers. The high freeboard design isn’t sexy, but it does allow for a surprising amount of room down below. The little boat sports two large double berths/two singles, a dinette, galley, six-feet of headroom and a fully enclosed head.

Cheap or inexpensive?

This is another area where new MacGregor boat owners rejoice and critics scoff. A new boat, loaded, was around $35,000 in 2013 when they stopped producing them, but now used M 26M’s can be found for $20K or less. The scoffers believe there is no price point that will ever tempt them into stepping foot on a MacGregor 26. The boat, for some, represents a cheapening of the sport – a stripping away of the elegance and dignity that sailing withholds, leaving us with a mutant powerboat that wants to call itself a sailboat when the mood strikes. Not a pill purists will swallow.

Like them or not, one thing that is indisputable about the MacGregor 26 M is they have brought many non-sailors into the sailing universe. More than a few owners have gotten the sailing bug because they could afford it and then moved towards boats that were designed expressly for sailing.

We say live and let live. If you want to buy tarps and a dowel at Home Depot and fasten them to a canoe, that’s cool with us – as long as it’s safe. Although we’ll admit, when it comes to the MacGregor 26M, we’d much rather see you raise the sail and feel that heel than see you fire up that 70 h.p. and pull the waterskier around the lake. Besides, it’s cheaper to sail!

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Macgregor 25

Macgregor 25 is a 25 ′ 0 ″ / 7.6 m monohull sailboat designed by Roger MacGregor and built by Macgregor Yacht Corp between 1973 and 1987.

Drawing of Macgregor 25

  • 2 / 5 Marina del Rey, CA, US 1984 Macgregor 25 $5,800 USD View
  • 3 / 5 Marina del Rey, CA, US 1984 Macgregor 25 $5,800 USD View
  • 4 / 5 Marina del Rey, CA, US 1984 Macgregor 25 $5,800 USD View
  • 5 / 5 Marina del Rey, CA, US 1984 Macgregor 25 $5,800 USD View

macgregor sailboat rigging

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The first version was called the VENTURE 25. With relatively few changes, it became the MACGREGOR 25 (around 1980). With more than 7000 boats sold, it’s one of the most popular models from this builder.

Masthead Rig: I: 28.3’ J: 9.75’ P: 24.5’ E: 10.5’

Photo of Venture 25 courtesy Adam Hunt.

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1984 Macgregor 25 cover photo

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  3. MacGregor Sailing Canoe on Lake Wivenhoe

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COMMENTS

  1. Rigging a Macgregor 26x

    Rigging a Macgregor 26x. First of all, I think the video is a lie. Trick photography with the speed increased. Something David Copperfield would be proud of. There's no way that you can rig a Macgregor that fast. The boat does have a nice system to pull the mast up. But there's all these wires, connections, ropes, sails, bolts, wires, more ...

  2. Resource / Guide for basic rigging?

    A forum for discussion of how to rig and tune your boat or kicker to achieve the best sailing performance. Forum rules. 27 posts 1; 2; Next; returnofthemac Deckhand Posts: 36 Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2022 1:52 am Sailboat: MacGregor 26M Location: Austin, TX. Resource / Guide for basic rigging? Post by returnofthemac » Sat Aug 13, 2022 4:31 am.

  3. New Macgregor 26d owner

    Jun 9, 2020. #5. Rigging the jib and main sail should be similar to the MacGregor 26D manual attached. Where are you located? I helped a couple in central California rig his MacGregor 26D last weekend and showed them how to utilize available hardware including blocks, cleats, jam cleats, and winches.

  4. 1983 Macgregor 25 Rigging Questions

    Re: 1983 Macgregor 25 Rigging Questions. by Tomfoolery » Thu May 25, 2017 1:54 pm. It's a bit thin, but if it's anything like the X, you'll end up with something like 300 lb tension on the upper shrouds, and a bit less on the lowers, with the backstay slack and no sails hoisted. Most folks use their MRS to unpin the forestay and back the mast ...

  5. Bought a McGregor 26M but all rigging was not in place

    Apr 11, 2020. 746. MacGregor 26s Scott's Landing, Grapevine TX. Jun 15, 2024. #2. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people at this forum. A few other great resources include: MacGregorSailors.com - Index page. and.

  6. Macgregor 22

    Sailboat: MacGregor 26X Location: Hermiston, OR-----2001 26X DF-50 Suz-----(Now Sold) Re: Macgregor 22 - Standing Rigging Specs ... Temporary rigging doesn't have to be fancy - it just has to hold the mast square to the boat (port-starboard), with the proper amount of rake. Then you can make marks on what you have now, or add some temporary ...

  7. Macgregor 25 standing rigging question

    Angle to stern. The 25 does't need as much as the X. I think I set mine at 3-4". Use a string or topping lift with a plumb bob or weight on it secured to the back of the mast head. Subtract the distance from the mast to the fastening point for the line. Make sure your back stay is not attached when setting the rig. W.

  8. Rigging

    This is a full set of factory spec rigging for the 26S/26D, priced about $15 less if you buy it as a set. Includes standard 1/8" headstay and backstay and 5/32" upper and lower side shrouds with male stay adjusters swaged on. All of our rigging is high quality stainless wire and stainless swage fittings.

  9. MACGREGOR 26X OWNER'S INSTRUCTIONS MANUAL Pdf Download

    View and Download MACGREGOR 26X owner's instructions manual online. 26X boat pdf manual download. ... Rigging the Mast. Bowline Knot. Securing a Line to a Cleat. Spreader Tubes. Main Halyard. ... Sailboat macgregor 25 (7 pages) Related Products for MACGREGOR 26X. MACGREGOR 26 M 2009; MacGregor 26;

  10. PDF OWNER'S INSTRUCTIONS V21, V22, V25

    Bolt it to the hinged mast step with a 1/4" x 4" bolt and lock (nylon insert) nut. The 1/4" bolt hole in the mast is near the spreaders. Put a rubber washer on the bolt on each side of the mast to keep it from wearing on the hinged mast step. Make sure the nut is tight. If it comes off, things could get very bad.

  11. MacGregor 26 (newer model)

    The mast is a 7/8 fractional rig with swept-back spreaders and two shrouds; spreaders are mounted in sockets on the mast, an improvement over the original 26. MacGregor constructs the spar from 3″ x 4″ extrusions with wall thicknesses of 1/8″. Standing rigging is 1/8″ 7 x 19 wire on the stays, and 5/32″ 1 x 19 for the shrouds.

  12. MACGREGOR 26X

    Notes. As sail/power 'hybrids', both the M and X models are designed for use with a more than 'auxilary' sized outboard (rated for 5-50hp) and water ballast. Dry hull weight: 2,350 lbs. The MACGREGOR 26M replaced the MACGREGOR 26X in 2003. A similar version later reintroduced from another builder as the TATTOO 26 (2013).

  13. PDF MacGregor

    REAR MAST SUPPORT WIRES: (BACKSTAY) Lay the mast on the ground. Start at the top and install the rear mast support wire (31' 4 1/2") to the stainless fitting at the top of the mast as shown in Photo 2. Note that the end with the stainless steel strap does not go on the mast. Use a 1/4" x 11/2" bolt and lock nut.

  14. Need Help rigging a Macgregor 22

    SailNet Archive Discussion starter. 87689 posts · Joined 1999. #1 · Jan 18, 2010. Hi everyone, I just acquired a 1985 Macgregor 22. Its missing all the running rigging including sheets and blocks. Can any tell me where I can get a picture of what I'm missing or a manual or something?

  15. Rigging

    Our Price: $695.00. MAST, BARE EXTRUSION, 3" X 4" X 24'. Our Price: $695.00. Now available again, CDI is under new ownership and back in production. This is the complete roller furling system for all MacGregor models. You will also need the deck hardware to lead the control line to the cockpit and a headstay compatible with the furler.

  16. Standing rigging adjustments and tuning

    The information available in the owners manual for the MacGregor 26S that I purchased used was of very little help. MacGregor was not very specific on the subject. If you push your boat hard, race your boat, or sail in winds subject to high velocities or gusts, then getting rig tension correct could prevent loss of the entire rig.

  17. Cruising Boat Spotlight: The MacGregor 26M

    A new boat, loaded, was around $35,000 in 2013 when they stopped producing them, but now used M 26M's can be found for $20K or less. The scoffers believe there is no price point that will ever tempt them into stepping foot on a MacGregor 26. The boat, for some, represents a cheapening of the sport - a stripping away of the elegance and ...

  18. Running Rigging Calculator

    Our running rigging calculator can instantly spec lines for more than 5,000 sailboats. Just select your boat below and you're a couple clicks away from new, top quality rigging. We've reduced the choices to a minimum to make ordering as simple as possible. (If you prefer more choices, please see our Running Rigging Builder.)

  19. MacGregorSailors.com

    Roger MacGregor tells how it started. Roger MacGregor - The Golden age of Sailboat Production. Safety Decal. Original Macgregor Promotional Video. Original 26X Factory Video. Original 26M Promotional Video. 26X Line Drawings. Macgcgregor Factory Photos 26X. Macgregor Website Archive.

  20. MACGREGOR 25

    The first version was called the VENTURE 25. With relatively few changes, it became the MACGREGOR 25 (around 1980). With more than 7000 boats sold, it's one of the most popular models from this builder. Masthead Rig: I: 28.3′ J: 9.75′ P: 24.5′ E: 10.5′ Photo of Venture 25 courtesy Adam Hunt.

  21. Macgregor 25

    Macgregor 25 is a 25′ 0″ / 7.6 m monohull sailboat designed by Roger MacGregor and built by Macgregor Yacht Corp between 1973 and 1987. Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts. ... Masthead Rig: I: 28.3' ...

  22. MacGregor 25

    MacGregor 25 with fractional rig. The MacGregor 25 is a small recreational keelboat, built predominantly of fiberglass, ... a one-time Ford employee, may well be credited with doing the same thing for the cruising sailboat. The popular MacGregor 25 was the flagship of his line for 14 years. With a swinging keel - a MacGregor invention - that ...

  23. MACGREGOR 22

    It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5