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Rolex Yacht-Master & Yacht-Master II: The Comprehensive Guide to the King of Sailing Watches

The Rolex Yacht-Master occupies a prominent but, for many, difficult-to-define area within the company’s overall portfolio. It’s regarded as a popular dress watch but is firmly positioned within the “Professional” collection. It looks a lot like a Submariner but isn’t really a dive watch, so it’s really not like a Submariner at all. It’s designed as a men’s watch but has become a canvas for some very feminine executions. And unlike other Rolex models that offer an original “I” and a second-generation “II” version, like the GMT-Master and Explorer, the Yacht-Master I and II are scarcely related in their design or functions at all. And yet, the Yacht-Master remains a top-tier timepiece both for Rolex and its legions of fans, and in its relatively short span on the market has welcomed a number of innovative materials and technologies into the Rolex fold. Read on to discover more about the Rolex Yacht-Master (in all its various versions) and what makes the model unique among its Oyster Perpetual brethren.

1967 - 1969 - The Prototype: Cosmograph Yacht-Master

Rolex Cosmograph Yacht-Master, circa 1967 (photo: Rolex Magazine.com )

While the Yacht-Master as we know it today traces its genesis only to 1992, the name appeared on a Rolex dial several decades before — on a watch that resembled more an evolution of the Daytona than of the Submariner — indicating that a sailing-themed watch was something that Rolex had been tinkering with as an organization for some time. In 1967, shortly after the debut of the Cosmograph (soon to be the Cosmograph Daytona) in 1963, Rolex developed a chronograph wristwatch prototype, with a three-register “reverse panda” dial and a tachymeter scale that it dubbed the “Cosmograph Yacht-Master” ( Reference 6239/6242); at 39.5mm, it was larger than the core Daytona model, which at the time was a fairly modest 36mm. Also setting it apart from all of its siblings in that collection is the odd addition of a multicolored scale at the bottom left of the 3 o’clock subdial, presumably to be used in concert with the chronograph function for counting down to the start of a yachting regatta. Only three examples of this model, which appears to have never been commercially released, are known to exist, one of them once owned by guitar legend and Rolex super-collector Eric Clapton. 

1992 - Enter the “Luxury Submariner”

The first Rolex Yacht-Master in yellow gold (Ref.16628, circa 1992)

The Rolex braintrust never fully abandoned the idea of a nautically inspired boating watch to join the diving-tool Submariner (and eventually its more robust successor, the Sea-Dweller), and the Crown finally pulled the trigger on it in 1992. The Ref. 16628 model, which launched the modern Yacht-Master collection, was intended as a more luxurious version of the Submariner, at the time still regarded as more of an upscale tool watch than a dressy sport watch appropriate to be worn on the deck of a yacht. Accordingly, it looks a lot like the Submariner in its primary aesthetic and technical details. Its dial featured the same Mercedes handset; the same eclectic assortment of circles, rectangles, and triangles at the hour markers; and the same Cyclops lens-enhanced 3 o’clock date window that the Submariner acquired in 1969, along with a very similar rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale. 

Rolex Yacht-Master Ref. 16628 with mother-of-pearl dial (photo: Analog:Shift )

The main differences are in the execution. For several years at that point, the case of the Submariner had been boasting a water resistance rating of 300 meters (still a standard for the model today), while the Yacht-Master’s case came in at a respectable but much more pedestrian 100 meters — again, more suited for being worn above the water than under it. While the case diameter of the newcomer was the same — 40mm — it was, along with its Oyster bracelet, made of 18k yellow gold, while the vast majority of Submariners were still made of 904L “Oystersteel.” The aforementioned bezel offers the most distinguishing differences: it rotates in both directions rather than one, another indication that the watch’s primary role was not to time dives (in which case, a unidirectional bezel that tracked how long the wearer had been underwater, and couldn’t be inadvertently moved for an inaccurate reading, was the safest option) but to be used for a more versatile array of calculations including counting down to the start of a yacht race. The more outwardly notable difference from its diving predecessor was the bezel’s 60-minute scale, which was relief-engraved directly onto the precious metal surface rather than etched into an insert made of aluminum, bakelite, or (as it is nowadays) ceramic. The overall effect was more streamlined and, objectively, more “luxury” than “tool” or “sport.” The movement inside was the same as the one the Submariner used at the time — Rolex’s “Perpetual” (i.e., automatic) Caliber 3135. 

As you might surmise from the evidence at hand here, the Yacht-Master’s remarkable resemblance to the Submariner is the result of neither coincidence nor design laziness. As watch companies are apt to do occasionally, Rolex had the notion at one point, probably during the 1980s, to upgrade and revamp the look of the Submariner — which, it’s worth remembering, had not really changed much since its debut in 1953. According to industry lore, propagated by some who were involved at the time, one of those experiments yielded a watch that Rolex executives were very bullish about — but not bullish enough to actually pull the plug on the “old” Submariner design and replace it with the newer, more luxurious one, hence the revival of the 1960s “Yacht-Master” name and the launch of what would be — until the debut of the Sky-Dweller in 2012 — Rolex’s newest product family.

1994 - 2005: Growing the Fleet: Midsize, Ladies, and Two-Tone Editions

In 1994, recognizing the potential unisex appeal of its first new timepiece collection since the Daytona, Rolex followed up the original Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master with a 35mm “Midsize” version (Ref. 68628) and an understatedly feminine 29mm “Lady Yacht-Master” model (Ref. 69628) Both were in yellow-gold, and both were powered by Rolex’s self-winding Caliber 2135, with a 42-hour power reserve. It was the first time in Rolex’s history that a model from its “Professional” series, which includes traditionally male-targeted models like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona, was offered in a smaller case size than that of the original. Even in the core 40mm sizes, the Yacht-Master template established in 1992 proved to be ideal for more decorative treatments; over the years, Rolex has released versions of the Yacht-Master 40 with ruby, sapphire, and diamond-set hour markers, mother-of-pearl dials, and even fully paved diamond-set dials.

In what would become something of a tradition for the series going forward, Rolex unveiled the first Yacht-Master with a bi-material construction in 1999. The Ref. 16622 boasted a 40mm case that combines stainless steel (for the case middle, caseback, and Oyster bracelet) and 950 platinum (for the relief-engraved bezel and the dial) in a somewhat monochromatic hybrid that the company refers to as “Rolesium.” Another bi-metal Yacht-Master iteration, one more striking in the tonal contrasts of its materials, arrived in 2005, the first “Rolesor” model, with Oystersteel and yellow gold used for the case and bracelet. That watch, Ref. 16623, was available in a variety of dial colors, including champagne, blue, and brown, and even a mother-of-pearl version.

Rolex Yacht-Master Ref.  16623 "Rolesium"

2007: Regatta Revolution: The First Yacht-Master II

In 2007, Rolex introduced the next generation of the Yacht-Master, and it was not only a significant departure from its predecessor; it was also, in a way, a return to the “Cosmograph” functionality of the 1960s prototypes. In actuality, the Yacht-Master II, first issued in a 44mm case in yellow gold (Ref. 116688) or white gold (Ref. 116689), is more appropriately described as a separate family of watches than as a branch of the main Yacht-Master series. For one thing, the movement that debuted inside the watch, Caliber 4160, was entirely new. Technically speaking, it’s a descendant of the Caliber 4130 found in Daytona models, and Rolex’s first in-house caliber to incorporate a built-in regatta countdown feature. For another, place a Yacht-Master II next to a “regular” Yacht-Master and they look, really, nothing alike. The bidirectional bezel of the Yacht-Master II is emblazoned not with the diving-inspired 60-minute scale of its smaller sibling but a countdown scale, with Arabic numerals starting with “10” and concluding at “0” spanning a semicircular arc from approximately the 8 o’clock to the 4 o’clock positions. A similar descending 10-to-0 scale is featured on the dial, positioned inside the border of the small rectangular hour markers and above the running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The bezel insert, made of Cerachrom, Rolex’s patented ceramic alloy, is also much more Submariner-like than Yacht-Master-like.

The first Rolex Yacht-Master II, circa 2007

The chronometer-certified movement offered not only a column-wheel driven chronograph function but an exclusive regatta countdown device, developed in-house by Rolex, that can be pre-set for intervals up to 10 minutes and whose mechanical “memory” allows it to be re-set to a previously used countdown duration. Once the watch’s countdown function is engaged, it can even be adjusted on the fly to synchronize with the precise, “official” countdown that initiates the crucial starting sequence of every regatta. While it was undeniably luxurious in its trappings — available in several precious metal options, as well as, eventually, in steel — the message delivered by the Yacht-Master II was clear: this was a watch for actual boat skippers, not just plutocrat boat owners.

Despite the niche appeal of the Yacht-Master II’s sailing-specific complication — or, perhaps because this appeal never became more widespread among Rolex fans in general — the Yacht-Master II was discontinued in 2024. Its most recent upgrades were fairly subtle: as of the all-steel Ref. 11680 introduced in 2013, the movement inside shifted to Caliber 4161, which (according to Rolex) improved upon the 4160’s reliability and the user-friendliness of its pushers.

2015: Everose Meets Oysterflex

Even before the decision to retire the Yacht-Master II from the lineup, throughout  the past decade it has been the original, core Yacht-Master model, the one without the regatta timer, that has received the most attention from the brand, with more firsts for the model arriving in 2015. The Ref. 116655, launched at that year’s Baselworld watch fair, was the first Yacht-Master with a case made from Rolex’s proprietary rose-gold alloy called Everose gold, and the first to contain a movement meeting Rolex’s “Superlative Chronometer” standard that was rolled out the same year. Its bezel was executed in black Cerachrom, albeit with the same relief-style scale as its metal predecessors rather than the etched scale of the Submariner. What many remember best is that it was also the first watch to be mounted on Rolex’s innovative Oysterflex bracelet — which on its exterior resembles a fairly traditional black rubber strap but on its interior is equipped with a patented “longitudinal cushion” system, made up of nickel-titanium blades inside an elastomer coating. The patented design gives an Oysterflex the suppleness and comfort of a strap while still providing the robustness and stability of a bracelet, and this style of wristlet has been a mainstay within Rolex’s “Professional” series of watches ever since, though still most closely associated with the Yacht-Master. Somewhat more quietly in that same year of big Yacht-Master moves, Rolex discontinued the 35mm Midsize and 29mm Ladies models, replacing them with a new series of arguably more “unisex” 37mm Yacht-Masters; today, this represents the smallest option within the collection.

2019: A Bigger Boat with a Better Engine: Introducing the Yacht-Master 42

The core Yacht-Master collection welcomed a new size and a new movement in 2019. For the first time since the debut of the 40mm original, the case size was increased, to 42mm, in the white-gold-cased Ref. 226659. It was, somewhat surprisingly for a watch that had undergone so many luxurious iterations in its history, the first time that particular precious metal had been employed for a Yacht-Master case. The watch’s Cerachrom bezel insert was in matte-black, to match the dial, and featured the same relief-raised scale and numerals as its 40mm siblings. The Yacht-Master 42 also marked the first use of the “Superlative Chronometer” Caliber 3235 in the Yacht-Master family.

Rolex Caliber 3235

In production since 2015, Caliber 3235 is one of Rolex’s most optimized in-house calibers and has been gradually replacing the venerable 3135 in many of the brand’s three-hand-date models, from the basic Datejust to the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and Yacht-Master. The movement’s host of talking points includes the patented “Chronergy” escapement, made of magnetism-resistant nickel phosphorus that renders the movement both highly energy efficient and extremely durable; the Rolex-exclusive blued Parachrom hairspring that gives the oscillator a greater level of resistance to magnetism and shocks; and the lengthy 72-hour power reserve and industry-leading “Superlative Chronometer” accuracy to +/- 2 seconds per day. 

2023: Sailing to the Future in Titanium

Rolex is famously of the “slow and steady wins the race” philosophy when it comes to adopting new materials and buying into industry trends in general. The brand waited until 2022 to make its first watch case in titanium (specifically grade 5 titanium, which Rolex — of course — calls by its own in-house moniker of RLX Titanium) — and that watch, the 50mm, 36,000-meter water resistant Deepsea Challenge, was anything but an everyday timepiece. One year later, it was a Yacht-Master, in the recently established 42mm case size, that ushered RLX titanium into more wearable territory. RLX titanium is a strong, corrosion-resistant and very lightweight alloy, with a technical satin finish lending it a sleek, subtly grainy texture. The watch’s case is milled from a single block of the material and is enhanced with shiny polished facets that help to frame and elegantly define its broader satin-finished surfaces. The black dial — Rolex calls it “intense black” and who am I to disagree? — has its own grained texture, and the titanium bracelet is fitted with ceramic inserts and equipped with the brand’s Easylink extension system for maximum wearing comfort. Inside beats the reliable and increasingly ubiquitous Rolex Superlative Chronometer Caliber 3235.

In a way, the latest model finally brings the Yacht-Master from its “luxury Submariner” origins to what many feel is its proper tool-watch identity. It will be intriguing to see if future versions of the Yacht-Master — now that the original model stands alone, without its chronograph-countdown sibling, as the Rolex watch for sailors and other seaborne sojourners — venture more into the placid waves of dress-watch elegance or the churning whitewater of regatta-race utility. Knowing Rolex, it’s likely to be the most crowd-pleasing combination of both. 

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Rolex Yacht-Master Size Guide

The Rolex Yacht-Master , a hallmark of craftsmanship and luxury, stands as a testament to the brand’s commitment to impeccable design and relentless innovation. Emerging from Rolex’s illustrious line of sport watches, the Yacht-Master, although often overshadowed by its counterparts like the Submariner or Daytona, brings with it a unique appeal. This appeal doesn’t just stem from its sleek aesthetics or its maritime heritage, but also from its remarkable range of sizes tailored to suit wrists of all dimensions.

Since its debut in 1992, the Yacht-Master series has ventured through an intriguing journey, consistently expanding and refining its size offerings. New variants have been presented to the world, while others have gracefully retired, making way for the new. This continual evolution sparks the question for both seasoned collectors and budding enthusiasts alike: What sizes are currently available in the iconic Yacht-Master lineup, and how did they come to be? <> <>

Rolex Yacht-Master Sizes: A History

The Yacht-Master’s illustrious journey began in 1992, when Rolex introduced it to the world with a robust 40mm size (ref 16628). This initial offering was a statement of intent from Rolex, underscoring their dedication to creating a nautical-themed watch that combined style with functionality. This piece swiftly became a sought-after accessory for marine enthusiasts and Rolex aficionados alike.

Two short years later, in 1994, Rolex diversified its offering, acknowledging the demand for variety. They introduced the more petite 29mm and the medium-sized 35mm variants, catering to those with slender wrists or individuals seeking a more subdued size. These additions highlighted Rolex’s commitment to versatility and recognizing the diverse preferences of its global clientele.

The collection underwent a notable evolution in 2015. This year was marked by the unveiling of the 37mm Yacht-Master, a harmonious balance between the original 40mm and the smaller 29mm. This introduction was special not only for its new size but also because it was crafted in the luxurious Everose Gold, paired with the contemporary Oysterflex bracelet. This innovation, however, came with a bittersweet note: the 29mm and 35mm sizes, once celebrated, were discontinued, making way for the new.

2019 ushered in another size variant: the substantial 42mm model. This piece was designed to cater to those who desired a more dominant presence on the wrist. Not resting on their laurels, in 2022, Rolex adorned this 42mm variant in radiant Yellow Gold, showcasing their penchant for marrying opulence with innovation. And as if to further emphasize their dedication to pushing boundaries, 2023 marked the introduction of the 42mm Yacht-Master in a robust and sleek Titanium build, underscoring Rolex’s drive to incorporate contemporary materials without compromising the line’s timeless elegance.

<> Current Rolex Yacht-Master Size Options

Rolex’s commitment to innovation and precision is evident in its Yacht-Master collection, offering a diverse range of sizes to cater to a wide spectrum of enthusiasts. The distinct sizes, each with its unique configurations, provide watch aficionados with choices that reflect individual style, wrist dimensions, and personal preferences. In the contemporary lineup, we have three prominent sizes: the graceful 37mm, the classic 40mm, and the commanding 42mm. <>

The 37mm Yacht-Master strikes an exquisite balance, making it an excellent choice for those seeking a moderately sized timepiece. It combines the versatility of the larger models with the subtlety of the smaller variants. Its available options are:

Solid Everose Gold with Oysterflex : A blend of Rolex’s signature Everose gold paired with the revolutionary Oysterflex bracelet, this variant exudes luxury while offering comfort.

Steel and Everose: This combination brings together the durability of steel with the warmth of Everose gold, creating a timepiece that’s both functional and visually appealing.

Steel and Platinum : A marriage of rugged steel and the elegance of platinum offers a timepiece that is simultaneously understated and opulent. <>

A direct descendant of the original Yacht-Master, the 40mm retains its predecessor’s essence while embracing modern touches. The available configurations are:

Solid Everose Gold with Oysterflex : Melding the richness of Everose gold with the athletic Oysterflex bracelet, this variant is a testament to luxury and innovation.

Steel and Everose : A harmonious juxtaposition of strength and elegance, this blend serves as a reminder of Rolex’s dedication to craftsmanship.

Steel and Platinum : For those who desire a blend of resilience and luxury, this configuration marries the robustness of steel with the shimmer of platinum. <>

The 42mm Yacht-Master, the newest and largest size in the collection, is designed for those who desire a commanding presence on the wrist. The available models for this size are:

White Gold: A manifestation of pure luxury, the white gold variant radiates understated elegance, making a statement without being ostentatious.

Yellow Gold with Oysterflex Strap : This variant, introduced in 2022, is a nod to Rolex’s heritage, with yellow gold representing the brand’s timeless allure, paired innovatively with the Oysterflex strap.

RLX Titanium with Titanium Bracelet : Introduced in 2023, this model showcases Rolex’s commitment to pioneering new materials. The titanium build not only offers durability but also a modern aesthetic, complemented by a matching titanium bracelet.

<> Discontinued Rolex Yacht-Master Size Options

Over the years, Rolex’s Yacht-Master collection has witnessed the introduction and subsequent retirement of certain sizes, reflecting the brand’s evolution and response to market dynamics. While these sizes might have been phased out of production, they remain significant in Rolex’s storied history and continue to hold a special place in the hearts of collectors. Two such notable sizes are the delicate 29mm and the versatile 35mm.

The 29mm Yacht-Master, designed for slender wrists, offered a blend of Rolex’s craftsmanship in a more compact form. The available configurations for this size were:

Solid Gold : A testament to pure luxury, this variant exuded opulence and was a favorite among those who appreciated the classic Rolex gold touch.

Two-Tone Steel Gold : A harmonious fusion of durability and luxury, this model combined the strength of steel with the warmth of gold.

Steel and Platinum : Merging the robust nature of steel with the elegance of platinum, this configuration offered a refined yet resilient timepiece.

Additionally, this size was available with slate, champagne, blue, and mother-of-pearl (MOP) serti dials, enhancing its appeal. <>

Sitting between the original 40mm and the petite 29mm, the 35mm Yacht-Master catered to those seeking a balanced size. Its available models included:

Solid Gold : Representing Rolex’s longstanding tradition of luxury, this variant showcased the brand’s expertise in crafting exquisite gold timepieces.

Two-Tone Steel Gold : A blend of functionality and opulence, this combination catered to those who wanted the best of both worlds.

Steel and Platinum : For those who preferred a touch of luxury with everyday durability, this pairing offered the perfect balance.

Much like the 29mm, the 35mm also featured the option of slate, champagne, blue, and MOP serti dials, making it a sought-after piece among collectors.

Rolex Yacht-Master Size Guide – Final Thoughts

The Rolex Yacht-Master series embodies a fusion of the brand’s time-honored craftsmanship, innovation, and luxury. Its diverse range of sizes, both current and discontinued, is a testament to Rolex’s dedication to meeting the evolving tastes of watch enthusiasts globally. While the newer sizes and configurations reflect the brand’s forward-thinking approach and embrace of contemporary materials, the spirit and essence of the Yacht-Master remain rooted in its rich maritime heritage and unwavering commitment to excellence.

For individuals keen on delving deeper into the world of Rolex, be it the Yacht-Master collection or any other Rolex timepiece, SwissWatchExpo stands out as a beacon. With its vast collection, profound expertise, and dedication to authenticity, it provides both seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts a trusted platform to explore, learn, and invest in timepieces that aren’t just instruments of time, but also heirlooms of history and artistry.

Explore our selection of Rolex Yacht-Master models, along with thousands of authentic, pre-owned watches from the world’s best brands, at SwissWatchExpo.com . <>

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Rolex Yacht-Master II Ultimate Buying Guide

There are some Rolex watches that are more or less universally loved, with a simple and versatile aesthetic that leaves little room for any sort of animosity. However, there are others within the portfolio that almost seem to have been created specifically to invite controversy, taking the brand away from its traditional design base and into more contentious territories. The Rolex Yacht-Master II is one of those watches.

When it arrived in the mid-2000s, the Yachtmaster II was so far removed from anything Rolex had created before that nobody seemed to know quite what to make of it. The watch was a big, bold and extremely expensive addition to the catalog, and while it was obviously slotted into the brand’s Professional Collection, it stuck out like the proverbial sore thumb. However, that was back then. Looking at the brand’s catalog today, it seems that Rolex was simply ahead of the game.

The Yacht Master II’s once challenging looks have matured, and although it is still most definitely a visually striking watch, it is no longer considered completely over the top. Mechanically, it is also incredibly impressive. On its debut, it instantly became Rolex’s most complicated watch, with a one-of-a-kind functionality aimed at about as niche a group as you could imagine. Below we have laid out a complete guide to the Rolex Yacht-Master II with everything you need to know in order to make an informed decision.

Rolex Yacht-Master II

Yacht-Master II Key Features:

• Year Introduced: 2007
• Case Size: 44mm
• Materials: Oystersteel; Everose Rolesor; 18k Yellow Gold; 18k White Gold & Platinum
• Functions: Time w/Running Seconds, Programmable Regatta Timer w/ Mechanical Memory
• Dial: White w/ Luminous Hour Markers
• Bezel: Ring Command, Blue Ceramic or Platinum Insert w/ 10-Minute Countdown Scale
• Crystal: Sapphire (Flat)
• Movement: Rolex Caliber 4161
• Water Resistance: 100 Meters / 330 Feet
• Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet
• Retail Price: $18,750 – $48,150 USD (Approx.)

Rolex Yacht-Master II History

Launched in 2007, the Rolex Yacht Master II debuted some 15-years after its original Yachtmaster namesake. However, the similarities between this watch and the model that first carried the Yacht-Master name are pretty much zero.

Where the earlier model is essentially a more luxurious take on the Rolex Submariner, the Yacht-Master II is a fully-fledged item of luxury professional sailing equipment, designed from the outset to assist skippers keep track of time during the complicated starting sequence of a regatta. That technically leaves the Yacht-Master II in the tool watch category, but this is a long way from the likes of the more utilitarian Explorer II and evidence of that can be found in its release schedule.

The first versions of the Rolex Yacht Master II to be unveiled were the 18k yellow gold ref. 116688 and the even more opulent 18k white gold version fitted with a platinum bezel, the ref. 116689. Quite a bit removed from the brand’s usually conservative styling, this large, gleaming, in-your-face effort that shouted its own name across its bezel, was an immediate opinion splitter. Traditionalists were horrified, lamenting Rolex’s continued straying from its roots, while others who enjoy having their watches noticed, embraced it wholeheartedly.

The financial crash that followed in 2008 altered the landscape for watchmakers (along with everyone else) and called for more affordable pieces to come forward. The Yachtmaster II collection expanded in 2011 with the unveiling of the Rolex 116681 , an Everose Rolesor model with a stainless steel case and outer bracelet links paired with a winding crown, pushers, and central links in Everose gold. That was followed by the version everyone was clamoring for in 2013 – the Rolex Yacht-Master II 116680 in full stainless steel, which also introduced a new caliber, the Cal. 4161, replacing the former Cal. 4160.

The only other change the watch has undergone since then occurred on its 10th anniversary in 2017, when it was given a facelift so slight that Rolex didn’t even feel it warranted a new reference number. The square hour markers at the six and 12 o’clock were changed to a rectangle and inverted triangle respectively, and the simple stick handset was swapped for the Mercedes type to bring them in-line with much of the rest of the brand’s Professional Collection.

How Much Is A Rolex Yacht-Master II?

When the Rolex Yacht-Master II first arrived, the combination of its exclusively precious metal construction and the extraordinary engineering going on inside its movement meant that it was among the most expensive offerings in Rolex’s catalog. This left many admirers priced out of the picture, but the introduction of stainless steel and two-tone references would soon open the Yacht-Master II up to a much wider range of buyers.

The Rolesor model from 2011 sacrificed some of that wall-to-wall gold for 904L stainless steel and more or less cut the asking price in half, while the full steel version dropped the retail price even further. Today, brand-new examples vary from $18,750 for the full stainless steel model up to $48,150 for the white gold and platinum version. But what about pre-owned prices?

The rather love-it-or-hate-it visuals of the Rolex Yacht Master II means that it doesn’t attract quite the same level of universal frenzy as the Daytona or Submariner. It is not completely out of the question for an authorized retailer to even have a model or two in stock, which isn’t something that can be said about the vast majority of the brand’s other sports watches. For that reason, pre-owned models do command a bit of a premium, but nowhere near as much as some of the other models in the brand’s catalog.

You can expect to pay a minimum of around $18,000 for an unworn steel piece on the secondary market, while the Everose Rolesor edition comes in closer to about $25,000. The 18k yellow gold ref. 116688 also holds pretty steady, with most examples falling somewhere in the $40,000 to $45,000 range, depending on age and overall condition. Finally, the ref. 116689 – the top-of-the-line model in white gold and platinum, is where the biggest discounts can be found. A brand-new example costs $48,150 at an authorized dealer, but an older example on the pre-owned market can often be found for just under $30,000.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Design

The Yacht-Master II is arguably the least “Rolex-looking” Rolex watch ever made, which is the core reason behind why it ruffled so many feathers among purist collectors upon its release. It’s arrival took the brand down previously unexplored experimental paths, a very far cry from the sort of discreetly restrained icons present throughout the rest of its portfolio.

The Yacht-Master II is a hard-working watch with a lot of information to present and as a result, it has what initially looks like somewhat of a cluttered dial. However, a lot of that is down to a trick of the eye concerning the bezel’s 1-10 numerals being mirrored exactly around the horseshoe-shaped track on the face. This is obviously the regatta countdown scale , designed to help yacht skippers synchronize their boats’ movements with the race’s starting gun (we’ll get onto this more a little later).

What it means for the overall styling is a lot of numbers on the watch that you will not be using for the vast majority of the time you are wearing it. But while it may come across as a little jam-packed – particularly when you add in the chronograph hand, arrowhead countdown pointer, and a small running seconds sub-dial at the bottom – once you get used to it, you can’t help but be impressed with how much Rolex’s technicians have achieved with so little. No, it isn’t exactly the Explorer’s 3/6/9 arrangement, but it is perfectly readable with a little familiarity and conveys the information it provides in a clean and legible manner.

Despite only containing four models (all of which have white dials), the series actually covers a good range of tastes. The ref. 116688 could be in the running for most showy standard-production Rolex currently available, its all-yellow gold case somehow making the bright blue bezel pop even more. At the other end, the white gold and platinum ref. 116689 is as low-key and reserved as a 44mm wide, 14mm thick, highly-complicated, solid-gold sports watch can be. The virtual monochrome is lifted only by the red chrono hand and arrowed pointer.

In-between, the stainless steel and Everose Rolesor models do the job of appealing to more middle-of-the-road palates. Their color combinations, along with the mix of brushed and polished elements on the watch itself, keep it all on the right side of overdone, and the two-tone model’s bezel numerals also being filled in Everose gold is a nice touch. Unlikely to ever be described as subtle, any version of the Rolex Yacht-Master II is guaranteed to receive some attention.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Functions

Looks aside, the big talking point around the Rolex Yacht Master II lies in what it can do. There is a strong argument against calling the watch a genuine chronograph as it doesn’t so much keep track of elapsed time in the traditional sense, as it does count backwards from a specific starting point, up to a maximum of 10-minutes.

How is that useful? It is all down to how a professional regatta gets underway. Due to the nature of wind and water, it simply isn’t possible to get a bunch of yachts all lined up at a particular spot in the ocean and have them set off at the same time. Instead, the start of a race goes in stages, with each one marked by a gunshot or other audible signal. The first is usually sounded 10-minutes before the start (although it can also be seven or even five), and the skippers must maneuver their boats back and forth in front of the line without crossing it, jockeying with the other competitors for prime position.

There follows two further preparatory signals at precise intervals, and crews must coordinate their approach so they are as close to the start point as possible at the exact moment the race officially begins. It is that pair of additional signals that call into action one of the party tricks of the Yacht-Master II’s unique complication. Should the watch fall out of sync with the regatta reference clock for any reason, a press of the lower pusher activates the flyback (or fly-forward) function, snapping the chronograph hand to the nearest minute to allow the two timers to match up again. Even more notably, it is the only mechanical watch in the world with a programmable memory, meaning the wearer can reset back to the specified original countdown point at any time.

Giving access to all this engineering virtuosity is what Rolex has dubbed its Ring Command Bezel. This was the first appearance of the concept, with the second generation taking control of the Sky-Dweller’s myriad of functions a few years later. On both models, the bezel is directly linked to the internal movement, and on the Yacht-Master II, it acts as an analogue on/off switch. Rotating it 90° unlocks the functionality and allows for the countdown timer to be set with the crown. Turning it back again locks everything in place, and engages the memory. The watch is then operated as a standard chronograph, with the top pusher activating the starts and stops, and the bottom taking charge of the reset or flyback/fly-forward functions.

For a manufacturer not renowned for the complexity of its watches (quite the opposite, in fact) Rolex’s regatta timer is a seriously impressive performer. It may have been created for an especially select group, but it is truly surprising how useful it can be to count down accurately from 10-minutes, even for those of us who may not own a yacht – particularly if you like your pasta al dente.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Movement

The first run of the Rolex Yacht-Master II was powered by the in-house Caliber 4160. At the time, it was the most component-heavy movement the brand had ever created, but it was essentially a heavily reworked version of the Cal. 4130 from the Daytona. The column wheel, vertical clutch and ball-bearing rotor were all carried over from the brand’s legendary racing chronograph.

Obviously there is nothing wrong with that, and the Rolex Daytona’s movement remains one of the most reliable and accurate mass-produced chronograph calibers of the modern era. However, with the arrival of the long-awaited stainless steel Yacht-Master II in 2013, Rolex also unveiled a new mechanism, the Caliber 4161, the product of additional refinements and some 35,000 hours of development.

Made up of over 360 components, including those produced via a highly specialized fabrication process called UV-LiGA which uses ultraviolet light to build microstructures, this dedicated movement provided a crisper feel to the pushers and greater reliability. With that in mind, both the Cal. 4160 and the Cal. 4161 benefitted from Rolex advances such as the blue Parachrom hairspring , as well as providing users with a highly-respectable 72-hour power reserve and a 28,800vph balance frequency.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Bracelet

At the present time, all of the various Rolex Yacht-Master II models are fitted with the three-link Oyster bracelet, as befits a true sports watch. On each version, the inner links have been given a high polish to match the gleaming case, while the outer links receive a satin finish to provide a contrast against the lugs.

As for material, the bracelet is crafted from the same metal as the watch head: stainless steel, yellow gold or white gold. With the Rolesor example, the innermost links are forged from Everose gold, leaving the outer side links in 904L stainless Oystersteel. Tying it all together is the Oysterlock folding clasp, equipped with the brand’s Easylink extension system that allows for approximately 5mm of tool-free bracelet adjustment, completely on the fly and without the use of any tools.

The Yacht-Master II was something of a retaliation from Rolex against decades-worth of naysayers criticizing the brand for the lack of complicated watches in its lineup. Rolex’s rebuttal, while not the most all-encompassing in terms of looks or utility, still stands as a hugely significant piece of technical dexterity. Rolex has always produced tool watches, but as the company continues to make the transition towards being a true luxury manufacturer, the tool watches it produces also take on a more luxurious nature and the Yacht-Master II perfectly embodies this. Large and uncompromising, it is perhaps the most eccentric model Rolex has to offer – and it is always happy to take center stage.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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