yacht mainsheet systems

Sail trim : Full control: mainsheet systems in comparison

Hauke Schmidt

 ·  23.07.2019

The perception of a perfect sailing day is highly subjective, but it always has something to do with control. Because only those who are in control of the situation or can rely on the skipper are able to enjoy the moment. Strong, sudden heeling, killing sails and sunshots are not usually part of the confidence-building measures; neither is tugging on the mainsheet. And yet: as soon as the wind gusts, these scenarios are the order of the day on many yachts.

Problem number one: The mainsheet cannot be operated quickly and easily enough to release pressure in the gust. There are many reasons for this, ranging from worn blocks and hard cordage to design flaws. This is also due to the fact that their course and attachment point are all too often subordinated to the desire for comfort in the cockpit. This is not just about the pleasure of easy operation and smooth functioning, but ultimately also about safety.

In YACHT 14/2019, you can read about the systems available, their advantages and disadvantages and how you can improve them with little effort. The magazine can be ordered from the DK shop or you can download the guide directly via the link below.

Sail trim: Mainsheet systems (pdf)

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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Mainsheet Tackle Bench Test

Whats the best 4:1 mainsheet control system.

Stroll through your local marina, and you’ll likely see plenty of resurrected, vintage sailboats, sporting newly painted hulls and decks, and replaced sails and rigging. But all too often, antique mainsheet blocks have somehow escaped the upgrade. Part of the reason for this oversight is that the sheaves, ensconced between weathered cheekplates, get only an occasional, no-load test spin, and all but the most severely deteriorated pass the scrutiny. Theres also an If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it mindset that usually makes sense, but in this case, a relatively simple and cost-effective block swap can greatly improve mainsail handling.

Mainsheet tackle comprises blocks, shackles, swivels, and a wide array of attachment hardware that allows us to more efficiently trim and shape the mainsail. Some sailors seek mainsheet simplicity, while others want sheet-hauling speed and fine-tune control. Arguably, the mainsheet tops the list of sail-trim controls, allowing a crew to adjust the boom angle in reference to the boats centerline and respond to changes in apparent-wind angle. It also can influence the downward force that alters the leech twist of the mainsail. In short, the mainsheet and the jib sheet are the key players when it comes to efficiency under sail.

What We Tested

In this round of mainsheet tackle testing, we sought products that makers would recommend for a Pearson 30. We narrowed the field to eight systems, all sized for small to mid-size cruiser-racers and daysailers (20 to 30 feet) that employ the mechanical advantage of a 4-to-1 mainsheet tackle. The test field included products from Antal Marine Equipment, Garhauer Marine Hardware, Harken, Nautos, Ronstan, Schaefer Marine, and Seldn Mast-all well-known makers of deck hardware.

All of the tested tackle featured a pair of fiddle blocks (one with a becket and a cam cleat), and all came with shackle ends that could be locked or allowed to swivel. Except for the Seldn, all of the systems used ball or roller bearings, and all have alloy, stainless steel, or injection-molded plastic cheekplates or cage frames. All of the sheaves-except those in the Garhauer products and the Harken and Nautos ratchet blocks-were non metallic. Glass fiber, Acetal, Delrin, and other plastic composites have become a favored alternative to metal sheaves.

Each companys engineers develop their own fiddle-block geometry and settle on a diameter ratio between the smaller and larger sheaves. This influences line leads and clearance. Among the test products, cam cleat design showed a wide range of differing thought, and in some cases, the cam-cleat structure was the limiting variable in setting a safe working load for the fiddle block/cam cleat combo.

How We Tested

The classic 4-to-1 mainsheet tackle comprises two fiddle blocks; one is simply a pair of inline sheaves, but the deck-level block includes a becket and a cam cleat. Ideally, this simple machine makes hauling in the mainsail four times easier when it comes to line-pull effort. For example, if a single line were attached to the boom and it required a 100-pound pull to move the boom inboard, a 4-to-1 purchase would allow you to get the same job done with only 25 pounds of pull. The no-free-lunch rule does come into play, resulting in the need to haul in four times the length of rope in order to cut the load to 25 percent of what it was originally.

All of the above assumes a utopian world of zero friction, so one of our tests sought to determine how well the blocks kept friction at bay. In order to test block efficiency, we set up a carefully controlled load-lifting experiment. It mimicked normal sailing conditions, measuring efficiency in a range well under the safe working load limits of all of the hardware tested.

To accomplish this, we mounted a fixed weight on a vertical rail and used each of the eight tackles to hoist the load. Tension in pounds, smoothness of pull, and cam-cleat operation were recorded. Testers also set up a high-load-strain test jig to evaluate cam operation at a 200-pound load after an 800-pound momentary load had been imposed. The test mimicked a gust and faux knockdown, and measured how easily a mainsheet could be released.

Because all of the test systems were equipped with cam cleats that are intended to be traveler mounted or mounted on a fixed part of the deck, we added a cleating/uncleating test. We also scrutinized the blocks construction materials, and noted where problems could arise. Factors such as potential for galvanic corrosion, sheave and bearing exposure to UV irradiation, and a wide range of physical design characteristics were considered.

Antals 70 series fiddle blocks are made from a single piece of carefully machined and anodized aluminum. Both the upper fiddle block and the deck-level block are equipped with a unique swivel-head lock that allows the mainsheet tackle to be permanently aligned or to swivel. The composite bushing rides on a stainless-steel hub, and side race ball bearings lessen sheave friction. Testers found that the sheave leads are fair, and theres no sign of line-to-line chafe when an eye splice is used instead of a bowline. Testers liked the precise grip and release of the cam jaws.

The Antal system did not top the scale in any one area, but it did run in the front of the pack. Testers gave high marks to the smooth pull and elegant design of the anti-swivel fitting. One of the more significant features is the cams combination of easy clip and release, powerful grip, and a superior ability to be released under load.

Priced at $563, the Antal system was the most expensive one tested, but it also is rated with the highest safe working load (SWL): 2,860 pounds.

Bottom line: The Antal fiddle blocks are well-engineered and exactingly constructed, but priced at the top of the heap. For those with deep pockets, the OPF70 is our Recommendation for all-around, long-lasting mainsheet control.

Garhauer offers three options as ready-to-connect mainsheet tackle. Each Series 30 combo has a fiddle block and a block with a becket plus a cam cleat that comes rigged with 40 feet of half-inch braided sheet attached via an eye splice. These setups come with either anodized aluminum cheekplates or highly polished stainless steel. And at $115 for the former and $125 for the latter-both with 10-year warranties-they represent a very good buy.

Garhauers large-diameter ball bearing race fiddle blocks paid off in the pull-efficiency testing, topping out with the low score of 24 pounds. We tested all three Garhauer units, but we reported only on two because the only difference between the alloy-sided blocks was the color of the anodizing. Common dimensions and bearing design among all three resulted in near identical friction test scores. Its interesting to note that using a lower ratio between the big block and small block may have lessened small sheave friction, but it also caused the line running through the blocks to touch, raising concerns about long-term chafe.

Garhauers smooth, efficient cam cleat is welded in place, making it impossible to alter lead angles yourself. However, if the factory lead angle doesn’t work, Garhauer will change it to a custom angle, at no charge.

The screw shackles have shallow threads, but the pins are bored to accept a ring pin. The cam cleat exerts a bear trap-like grip on the sheet (32 pounds of release pull) when a 200-pound load was placed on the tackle. At 800 pounds of tension, it took 45 pounds of pull to free the line.

Bottom line: This is an efficient, ruggedly built set of fiddle blocks and the price is compelling. They get the PS Budget Buy.

Harkens 75-millimeter Carbo Fiddle blocks incorporate cheekplates made of glass fiber-filled nylon resin; they are UV stable and more immune to corrosion than metal alternatives. Harkens switchable ratchet control and easy grip cam cleat make it a user-friendly tackle for mainsheet sheeting. Its patented three-way cam lock adds versatility, and the high-load bearing races ensure smooth operation at the upper end of the safe working load.

Testers also liked the Harkens details, including shorter length, forged stainless-steel D-shackles and the nicely machined aluminum primary sheave in the ratchet block.

Harken has come up with another elegant fiddle block combo. Its strong but light, the cam has a very positive grab, and its versatile in fixed or swivel mode. In fact, testers were a little concerned about the cams alligator-like grip and the higher load release (28 pounds pull) necessary at 200 pounds of tension. We worried about load jamming under higher loads, but after testing at 800 pounds, we were pleased to discover that the release required only saw a small uptick to 32 pounds of pull. The Harken has a SWL of 1,212 pounds.

This Carbo fiddle block couplet also has a ratcheting feature favored by one-design and smaller racer/cruiser owners. The feature can be clutched in or out on the fly, and the only downside is the flat facets on the large sheave of the lower fiddle block-a feature that gives a slight thump-thump feel when hauling the mainsheet.

Bottom line: The Harken Carbo 75 ratchet mainsail systems is priced in the middle of the pack ($280), and its our Recommendation for the serious sailor.

Nautos delivers a well-made, double fiddle-block combo, with a ratcheting feature. The blocks were the smallest in the test field, and not surprisingly, they also had the lowest safe working load. Despite their petite size, the Nautos blocks held their own with bigger blocks, especially when it came to releasing under load.

The fiddle blocks have stainless-steel cheekplates and a cross-riveted construction that holds the bearing surface and sheaves in place. The cam angle is adjustable, but the cam causes the safe working load to be lower than that of the blocks alone (660 pounds versus 880 pounds). These compact blocks also offer a ratcheting feature that can be toggled on or off with the push of a small lever.

Priced right at $137, the blocks would be well-suited for smaller boats with less mainsail area.

Bottom line: The Nautos blocks are a worthy choice for smaller boats in this size category.

Ronstan Series 60 Core fiddle blocks have a rugged two-stage bearing system that helps them cope with the heavy loads that can deform a primary bearing race. The adjustable-cam fiddle block incorporates a fixed or swiveling head, and the design uses alloy cheekplates to spread tensile loads. The Acetal sheave is UV stabilized, and the shackle post and hub are 316 stainless steel.

The Series 60 fiddle block design eliminates the need for a becket extension as the lower block spindle hole acts as a becket. We found the large-diameter hole on the lower sheave to be a functional alternative that worked well with a simple bowline. It did not chafe on any of the running parts of the sheet, but if an eye splice was to be used, it had to be made up with the block in the loop. It was the only unit tested without a traditional becket.

Friction was higher in this fiddle block combo, but the pull was smooth and even. The cam cleat had an easy-to-engage feel and behaved well under high-load testing. It was interesting to note that although low-load friction was high, the blocks secondary bearing race design improved its high-load operation.

Bottom line: Priced at $318, Ronstan delivers a good 4-to-1 sheeting system. The becketless design got mixed reviews from testers. Simply tying in a bowline works, but an eye splice must be made with the block included in the formation of the loop.

Schaefer fiddle blocks have evolved over the decades, but retain a commitment to functional stainless-steel strapping and anodized-alloy sideplate design. Today, bearings lower sheave friction and an easy-to-adjust cam bracket affords a wide range of lead angles.

The Schaefer Series 5 blocks have a familiar look and appeal, and yet their function has improved. With the addition of ball-bearing races to the Delrin sheaves, the blocks are very smooth running, no matter the load. Overall, quality of construction is very good and cheekplate strength and durability remains a Schaefer signature.

The split ring and strap type shackles are compact and strong, but most testers preferred the more conventional D-type, forged shackles with threaded clevis pins.

At 1,500 pounds safe working load, the Series 5 blocks fall on the lower end of the test field spectrum, and they proved to have less friction than others. Releasing the line from the grippy cam, loaded to 200 pounds, required 30 pounds of pull-about the same required by the Garhauer blocks.

Bottom line: The Series 5 fiddle blocks are compact and make an easy one-for-one upgrade aboard boats with older, similar sized Schaefer mainsheet tackles.

Seldens PBB 60 fiddle blocks are a sensible combination of stainless-steel framework and glass fiber-reinforced cheekplates. The combo becket and cam fiddle block is compact and ergonomic in design. The system also utilizes Acetal sheaves and a Teflon bushing-type plain bearing rather than the roller or ball bearings used in the other tackles we tested. Composite sheaves and a clever push-to-lock swivel immobilizer make Seldens blocks both efficient and cost effective.

Seldens bushing-type bearings held their own in the normal working load test, with a friction measure of 28 pounds, well inside the range of ball- and roller-bearing equipped competitors (24 to 33 pounds).

These well-designed and constructed fiddle blocks delivered smooth cam operation, and the easy to adjust angle feature is useful. Testers found that cam release under higher loads took more of a yank; whether this was due to cam jaw design or a bearing inefficiency at higher loads could not be determined.

Bottom line: In the normal operating range, the $138 system behaved well, and its compact size and quality construction were big pluses.

Todays sailboat hardware deserves the label better than ever, and all of the mainsheet tackles we tested were an improvement over their predecessors. Extraneous weight and material have been removed, and the safe working load-to-weight ratio increased. Injection molded cheekplates and plastic sheaves are better UV stabilized. Anodized aluminum is isolated from stainless-steel strapping, and CAD design, along with lots of in-house R&D, have led to more user-friendly cam cleats.

All this scrutiny led us to the conclusion that we had an array of very good products rather than a lineup of winners and losers. Those that nosed out the rest tended to be best suited for specific boat niches. For example, if youre a serious racer and have a mainsheet trimmer with a sheet continuously in hand, its hard to beat Harkens take-the-load-off ratchet system. These big, but light 75-millimeter fiddle blocks come with an adjustable angle cam and flip switch ratchet engagement. If theres a weekend cruise in the mix, theres a cam cleat with a toothy grip that doesn’t let the line slip and makes sailing much less labor intensive.

But for all-around long-term use, the test team found it hard not to like Antals new OPF70. The quality of craftsmanship and design detail are there, but the $563 price tag makes it a challenge to afford.

Harken has long been the force to reckon with when it comes to quelling friction and knowing what competitive sailors like to handle. Ratcheting sheet control is a worthwhile feature for those with more sport boat than crusty cruise. Harken shackles are superb and the materials they use make sense.

Give the sheave of a Garhauer fiddle block a little spin, and it whirls around like a Vegas roulette wheel. But what our testers were really impressed with was how these blocks minimized friction under load. Equally as compelling was the pricing that tallied up to the lowest in the group, and included 40 feet of 3/8-inch double-braid line with an eye-spliced end. On the downside, secondary sheave diameter and the lead between the fiddle blocks cause minor line-to-line rubbing, and theres no angle adjustability to the cam cleat. But when price and performance are a priority, the Garhauer stainless and aluminum systems get the nod as the PS Budget Buy.

If you sail a smaller, lighter, lower sail-area boat in this size range, the compact Nautos ratchet-equipped fiddle blocks are worth a close look. They kept up with competitors, but with a lower safe working load, they are better suited to smaller boats.

VALUE GUIDE: Mainsheet Control Systems for 20 to 30 foot Sailboats (4:1)

For centuries, a battle between simplicity and sail-trimming efficiency has been waged. Racers love double-ended sheeting that leads to the outboard end of the boom, runs forward internally and exits the boom near the gooseneck, returning aft along the cabin coamings or through a sub deck alleyway. Many bimini-bedecked cruisers appreciate mid-boom sheeting with bails so far forward that the sheet behaves more like a vang/sheet combo.

The right mainsheet solution depends upon your own sailing preference, but a few general principles reign true. The further forward on the boom the mainsheet is attached, the more of a downward effect (vang-like) sheeting elicits. The resulting elimination of twist may or may not be desirable, but it’s part and parcel of the trimming process. It’s no surprise that almost every performance-oriented sailboat is designed with end-boom sheeting.

Another fait accompli of mid-boom sheeting is the increased bending moment this tackle arrangement delivers. Relatively thin-walled tube sections—such as a mast, boom, or spinnaker pole—can handle impressive compression loads, but when it comes to the fulcrum-like bending load linked to the mid-boom attachment of a mainsheet, such tube sections perform poorly. Even with multiple blocks spreading the load over several feet, those converting to mid-boom sheeting will want a boom with a bit more cross-section or wall thickness.

Attaching a mid-boom preventer has a similar downside for those sailing coastally in an ocean swell. All it takes is a rolling swell and an inadvertent dip of the outboard end of the boom into green water. With a preventer rigged in the middle of the boom, the unsupported load caused by the contact with the sea can break the boom. This is why many seasoned voyagers have the mainsail’s clew-end reef point sewn in higher than the tack, resulting in the elevation of the outboard end of the boom, and making it less likely to submerge; some also lead a preventer to the outboard end of the boom. But if ocean sailing is not in the picture, such encounters are much less likely.

The bottom line is that end-boom sheeting delivers more mainsail control but places the tackle in the cockpit. So if you are satisfied with the sheeting afforded by a mid-boom setup, with its short traveler, at least the cockpit will be free of flying tackle during a jibe, and there’s room to rig a permanent bimini. But if you are about to tackle a mainsheet makeover, it’s worth considering whether or not end-boom sheeting might be more up your alley

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Mainsheet Rigging: Essential Tips for Smooth Sailing

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 2, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer mainsheet rigging:

Mainsheet rigging refers to the setup and configuration of the line system used to control the mainsail on a sailboat. It typically involves a combination of blocks, lines, and hardware that allow for efficient adjustment of the mainsail’s angle and tension. The rigging is crucial for proper sail trim and performance during sailing maneuvers.

How to Properly Set Up Mainsheet Rigging: A Step-by-Step Guide

Title: Master the Art of Properly Setting Up Mainsheet Rigging: A Step-by-Step Guide to Smooth Sailing

Introduction: Setting up mainsheet rigging may feel like a daunting task, particularly for novice sailors, but fear not! With a little guidance and understanding, you’ll soon be able to navigate through this essential aspect of sailing with ease. In this comprehensive step-by-step guide, we will shed light on the intricacies involved in setting up mainsheet rigging, enabling you to hoist your sails confidently and navigate your vessel like a true professional.

Step 1: Gather Your Tools and Materials Before commencing the setup process, assemble the necessary tools and materials. You’ll need a range of equipment such as shackles, blocks, lines (ropes), cleats, and possibly a winch handle. Ensuring you have everything at hand will prevent unnecessary interruptions during installation.

Step 2: Choose an Optimal Purchase Type Your purchase type refers to how the mainsheet tackles are organized on your sailing vessel . The commonly used systems include single or double-ended purchases or even more advanced options like triple-ended purchases. Consider factors such as boat size, personal preference for control responsiveness versus mechanical advantage, and local wind conditions when selecting an appropriate purchase type .

Step 3: Attach Blocks Securely Attach your blocks to their designated mounting points using proper hardware like shackles or lashing techniques. Double-check that they are firmly secured before proceeding further since these blocks play a crucial role in transferring load forces throughout your mainsail system.

Step 4: Thread Lines through Blocks Start by threading one end of your mainsheet line through the primary block on your boom or traveler car, depending on the main sheeting system utilized. This end should be long enough to reach the helm or crew position comfortably while leaving some slack for adjustments later. Next, thread the other end through additional secondary blocks, considering the purchase type selected earlier.

Step 5: Step Up Control Mechanisms Once your mainsheet line is threaded correctly, you’ll need to incorporate control mechanisms like cam cleats or winches. Cam cleats offer quick release and require less hardware but are generally not suitable for high loads. Alternatively, a winch provides tremendous mechanical advantage when dealing with larger boats or powerful winds, ensuring precise sheeting control in all conditions.

Step 6: Adjust Standing and Running Rigging While setting up mainsheet rigging, it’s crucial to evaluate how your standing and running rigging interacts with each other. Make any necessary adjustments to maintain proper alignment and avoid friction or interference while maneuvering under sail.

Step 7: Test and Refine After completing the setup process meticulously, you’re ready for the real test – hoist your sails! Pay close attention to how your mainsheet rigging handles during different points of sail (upwind, downwind), adjusting as needed. Fine-tune any excess slack or tension by using the control mechanisms installed earlier until it feels responsive, balanced, and perfectly tailored to enhance your sailing experience .

Conclusion: Setting up mainsheet rigging may seem intricate at first glance, but with this step-by-step guide as your compass, you’ll navigate through the process like a seasoned sailor. Properly rigged mainsails contribute significantly to overall sailing performance and enjoyment. By carefully selecting appropriate tools and materials, assembling blocks securely, threading lines correctly, incorporating control mechanisms that suit your needs best—all while considering your standing and running rigging—you’ll ensure smooth sailing experiences that will leave both experienced sailors and newfound enthusiasts impressed by your mastery of this art.

Understanding Mainsheet Rigging: Frequently Asked Questions Answered

Do you know what plays a crucial role in controlling the sail trimming and overall performance of your sailboat ? It’s the mainsheet rigging! If you’re new to sailing or just looking to improve your understanding of mainsheet rigging, we’ve got you covered. In this blog post, we’ll answer some frequently asked questions about mainsheet rigging in a detailed and professional, yet witty and clever manner. So let’s dive right in!

1. What is mainsheet rigging? The mainsheet rigging refers to the system of ropes, blocks, and hardware used to control the tension and angle of the mainsail on a sailboat. It allows sailors to trim the sail according to wind conditions, steer their boat effectively, and optimize its performance.

2. How does it work? Imagine yourself as a puppeteer with strings attached to various parts of your body. The mainsheet is like the main string that runs through blocks (pulleys) attached to your boat’s boom, creating a powerful mechanical advantage. By pulling or releasing the mainsheet, you control the angle and tension of the mainsail, adjusting its shape for different wind speeds or points of sail .

3. What are blocks and why are they important? Blocks are essential components in any effective mainsheet rigging system. They consist of sheaves (pulleys) enclosed within a casing that reduces friction when lines pass through them. Blocks are strategically placed along the boom or deck to create purchase – multiplying your strength when hauling on the sheet line.

4. What type of block should I use? Choosing the right block depends on factors like boat size, loads encountered, personal preference, and budget constraints. For smaller boats or recreational sailing, simple single block systems may suffice. However, for larger vessels or high-performance racing boats where significant forces come into play, multiple blocks or even ball-bearing blocks are necessary to maintain control and minimize friction.

5. How do I set up a basic mainsheet rigging system? Setting up a basic mainsheet rigging system is relatively straightforward. Start by attaching the block(s) to the boom using appropriate hardware like shackles or snap hooks. Run the sheet line through the blocks, ensuring it runs smoothly without any tangles or unnecessary twists. Finally, secure one end of the sheet line to your boat’s cleat or winch, allowing easy adjustment and trimming while sailing.

6. What are traveler systems, and should I use them? Traveler systems are additional components that enhance mainsheet control by allowing horizontal movement of the block along a track mounted on the boat’s deck or coach roof. While they provide more precise sail trimming in certain wind conditions, their necessity depends on various factors such as sailboat type, size, and personal preference. Consulting with experienced sailors or professionals can help you make an informed decision regarding traveler systems.

7. Are there any common mistakes people make with mainsheet rigging? Oh yes! One of the most common mistakes is underestimating the importance of proper tensioning. Too loose, and your sail will be inefficient; too tight, and you risk damaging both your sail and rigging components. Finding the sweet spot requires practice and adjustments based on wind conditions.

8. How can I improve my mainsheet handling skills? Practice makes perfect! Spend time regularly sailing your boat and experimenting with different sets-ups for varying wind speeds and points of sail. Observe how minor adjustments in mainsheet tension affect your boat’s performance until you become comfortable with subtle changes that enhance speed, balance, and responsiveness.

So there you have it – a detailed yet witty guide to understanding mainsheet rigging! By now, you should have gained valuable insights into this essential aspect of sailing that directly affects your boat ‘s performance on the water. Remember, play with your mainsheet rigging like a talented pianist plays the keys of a piano, and you’ll surely make your sailboat dance harmoniously with the wind!

The Importance of Mainsheet Rigging: Key Tips for Optimal Sail Control

Sailing aficionados understand the vital role that mainsheet rigging plays in achieving optimal sail control. The mainsheet, which is essentially a line or rope used to control the angle and tension of the mainsail, is a fundamental element in sailing performance. As sailors strive for precision and efficiency on the water, understanding how to optimize their mainsheet rigging becomes paramount. In this blog post, we will delve into the critical aspects of mainsheet rigging and provide key tips to achieve optimal sail control in a professional, witty, and clever manner.

1. Finding the Perfect Angle: Imagine yourself on a sailing adventure, with wind pushing against your sails as you glide across the water’s surface. Now picture this—your mainsail flapping uncontrollably or deprived of power due to incorrect angles set by its associated sheet line. Quite an unappealing scenario, isn’t it? Achieving the perfect angle for your mainsheet is crucial for attaining optimum sail control . By adjusting the boom’s position relative to your boat’s centerline using your handy-dandy mainsheet, you can harness every bit of natural force from the wind gods and propel yourself effortlessly forward.

2. The Magic Tension: Oh! The magical feeling when everything falls precisely into place – like hitting all green lights while driving through a bustling city! The same sensation holds true for achieving ideal tension in your mainsheet rigging. Striking just the right balance between loose and taut helps harness maximum power from your sails while maintaining stability. Too tight? Your boat may strain under excessive pressure or lose maneuverability altogether. On the other hand, if it’s too loose—the dreaded saggy sail effect will have you wistfully reminiscing about those sweet summer zephyrs that got away without even offering an ounce of propulsive force.

3. Block It Like It’s Hot: Ah, the humble block, a sailor’s best friend in achieving optimal mainsheet rigging. These clever contraptions allow for smooth distribution of force along your mainsheet line while minimizing friction. Ensuring you have appropriately sized and positioned blocks is vital for achieving efficient sail control. There’s nothing quite as frustrating as battling against a stubborn block that refuses to cooperate. So, take heed and make sure your blocks are aptly sized, positioned, and ready to handle whatever challenges the mighty wind might throw at them.

4. Channeling Your Inner MacGyver: Sometimes, when all else fails – you must channel your inner MacGyver to overcome unforeseen calamities on the water. This includes dealing with unexpected issues in your mainsheet rigging system! Always carry a trusty multi-tool or assorted spare parts—you never know when a crucial component might wiggle its way loose or give up altogether. Remember, adaptability is key to maintaining optimal sail control . A resourceful sailor can turn even the direst situation into a triumph-worthy conquer of Mother Nature herself—so embrace your ingenious side and keep those extra bits and bobs close!

5. The Mainsheet Dance: Ah yes! Proper mainsheet rigging truly is an art form—a dance between man (or woman) and nature’s whimsical gusts! Just like any two-step requires rhythm and coordination, managing your mainsheet demands precise timing and fluid motions from start to finish. Whether it be easing out or trimming in—the subtle twirl of the rope through your hands should match seamlessly with each change in wind speed and direction. Mastering this dance allows you to become one with the elements—an enigmatic figure gracefully gliding across tranquil waters—with full command over every subtle movement of the main sail .

In conclusion, mastering the art of mainsheet rigging is essential for every aspiring sailor seeking optimal sail control while gliding across the vast expanse of open water. By implementing our key tips and strategies, you can seamlessly find the perfect angle, achieve magical tension, handle blocks like a pro, remain adaptable to any situation, and dance your way towards ultimate sail control supremacy. So grab your mainsheet, tighten your grip (not too tight!), and embark on a journey of sailing bliss that will leave your fellow sea-faring enthusiasts green with envy!

Mastering the Art of Mainsheet Rigging: Insider Knowledge Revealed

Title: Unlocking the Secrets of Mainsheet Rigging: Unleashing Your Sailing Potential

Introduction: Welcome aboard, fellow sailors, as we embark on an exhilarating journey towards mastering the art of mainsheet rigging. In this blog post, we will dive into the depths of insider knowledge and expose hidden gems that will revolutionize your sailing experience . Brace yourself for a thrilling ride filled with professional insights, witty tips, and clever tricks – all to help you become a true maestro in manipulating your mainsheet rigging.

Demystifying Mainsheet Rigging: Before we unravel the secrets behind successful mainsheet rigging, let’s take a step back and understand its significance . The mainsheet serves as your ultimate interface with the sails – it can turn an average sailor into a virtuoso capable of harnessing every breath of wind to their advantage.

1. An Elegant Symphony of Components: Mainsheet rigging consists of several interconnected parts, each playing a vital role in creating a harmonious dance between you, your boat, and mother nature herself. From blocks and pulleys to cleats and travelers, understanding each component’s purpose is crucial when aiming to reach optimal performance.

2. Choosing Your Weapon: Ropes & Materials: Just like selecting the perfect instrument for a virtuoso musician, choosing the right ropes for mainsheet rigging is essential. Modern materials like Dyneema or Spectra offer lightweight strength and low stretch characteristics – factors that elevate maneuverability while reducing energy loss.

Pro Tips & Clever Hacks:

3. Fine-tuning Balance: Purchase Adjustments: Achieving balance between various forces acting upon your sail requires meticulous adjustments. Take advantage of purchase systems by incorporating double or triple block configurations strategically; doing so gives you greater control over sail trim without needing Hulk-like strength!

4. Be Clever with Vangs & Outhauls: Unlocking insider intelligence, we recommend skillfully using your vang and outhaul systems to fine-tune sail shape. Be proactive in anticipating wind shifts by adjusting your vang tension to maintain an optimal angle of attack, allowing you to ride the breeze more efficiently.

5. Go Hi-tech: Upgrade Your Cleats: Don’t settle for ordinary cleats – enhance your control and ergonomics by investing in modern designs. Upgraded versions offer better grip, effortless single-handed adjustment, and even advanced features like automatic release under excessive load – giving you a competitive edge on the water.

Mastering Performance Techniques:

6. The Art of Gust Management: As sailors, we all know how unpredictable gusts can be while out on the water. Rather than fear them, embrace these momentary bursts of energy! By quickly easing the mainsheet upon encountering a gust and progressively trimming once it subsides, you will effortlessly glide through variations in wind strength – achieving seamless fluidity that leaves others in awe.

7. Let Innovation Take Sail: Soft Attachments: Soft attachments have revolutionized mainsheet rigging by minimizing friction points while providing enhanced flexibility and longevity. Embrace this modern approach when configuring your mainsheet system to experience unparalleled responsiveness and reduced wear & tear throughout every sailing adventure .

Conclusion: Congratulations on joining us as we delved deep into the world of mainsheet rigging mastery! Armed with insider knowledge from experienced sailors, professional guidance, witty tips, and clever tricks, you are now ready to unlock your full potential on the water.

Remember: by continuously refining techniques, staying open to innovative solutions, and embracing new technologies within mainsheet rigging practices – you’re bound to become an extraordinary sailor who commands both wind and wave with remarkable finesse. So set sail confidently towards greatness – fair winds await!

Common Mistakes to Avoid in Mainsheet Rigging: Proven Solutions for Smooth Sailing

Title: Common Mistakes to Avoid in Mainsheet Rigging: Proven Solutions for Smooth Sailing

Introduction: Mainsheet rigging plays a crucial role in sailing, ensuring the smooth maneuvering of your vessel. However, even the most experienced sailors can make mistakes when it comes to mainsheet setup, resulting in inefficiencies or even dangerous situations on the water. In this blog post, we will delve into some common mistakes that sailors should avoid and provide proven solutions to achieve optimal mainsheet rigging for a seamless sailing experience.

1. Incorrect Block Placement: One of the most prevalent mistakes in mainsheet rigging is incorrect block placement. Placing blocks at inappropriate angles can hinder the flow of force through the system, reducing efficiency and control during sail adjustments. To overcome this error, meticulously analyze your boat’s design and consider how the sheets should run smoothly without unnecessary friction. Experiment with various block positions to find an optimal setup that minimizes resistance while maximizing control.

2. Insufficient Purchase System: Inadequate purchase systems result in insufficient mechanical advantage when adjusting sails . This can cause strain on crew members as they struggle to achieve desired sail trim or react quickly to changing wind conditions. By incorporating a higher purchase system using additional blocks and tackles, you can significantly improve control over your mainsail while easing physical exertion during maneuvers.

3. Ignoring Proper Line Tension: Neglecting line tension is another mistake that compromises effective mainsheet rigging. Lines that are either too loose or overly tight decrease maneuverability and responsiveness of your sails. Achieving proper line tension requires attention to detail; lines should be taut enough to eliminate slack but not excessively so as to restrict movement or damage hardware components.

4. Neglecting Regular Maintenance: Sailing exposes equipment to harsh conditions such as saltwater corrosion, UV radiation, and constant wear and tear over time. Neglecting regular maintenance is a grave mistake that compromises the overall performance of your mainsheet rigging. Inspect your blocks, sheaves, lines, and fittings regularly; replace worn-out components promptly to ensure optimal functionality and prevent potential failures while on the water.

5. Inefficient Purchase Configuration: Mainsheet systems with inefficient purchase configurations can make adjustments more cumbersome or require excessive physical effort from crew members. By understanding the forces involved in sail control and considering factors such as crew size, boat type, wind conditions, etc., you can reconfigure your purchase system to enhance its efficiency. Carefully analyze each component’s mechanical advantage to achieve a setup that offers precise control with minimal exertion.

Conclusion: Avoiding common mistakes in mainsheet rigging is essential for maximizing sailing performance and ensuring a safe experience on the water. By paying attention to block placement, implementing appropriate purchase systems, maintaining proper line tension, performing regular maintenance checks, and optimizing your purchase configuration for efficiency, you can navigate smoothly towards your destination while enjoying the thrill of sailing . Remember these proven solutions to transform your mainsheet rigging into a seamless process, allowing you to focus on commanding the winds gracefully aboard your vessel.

Exploring Different Techniques and Configurations for Mainsheet Rigging

In the world of sailing, mainsheet rigging plays a pivotal role in controlling the sail and maximizing performance on the water. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just starting out, exploring different techniques and configurations for mainsheet rigging can greatly enhance your sailing experience. In this blog post, we will dive into the details of various mainsheet rigging options, discussing their pros and cons as well as offering some witty and clever insights.

One popular technique for mainsheet rigging is the traditional end-boom setup. This classic configuration involves attaching the mainsheet to the end of the boom with a block or shackle. This simplicity allows for easy adjustment and control over the sail’s angle relative to the wind , known as sheeting in or out. The end-boom setup offers sailors direct control over sail shape and twist by manipulating tension on the sheet. However, one drawback is that it requires additional hardware like boom jaws or goosenecks to ensure proper connection between boom and mast .

Alternatively, sailors have also started adopting mid-boom setups for their mainsheets. This innovative configuration moves the attachment point closer to the middle of the boom, providing a more balanced force distribution along its length. By doing so, mid-boom setups reduce stress on both boom and mast while optimizing sail control. Moreover, this setup paves the way for better visibility from behind-the-mainsail helm positions – particularly handy when maneuvering near docks or in tight spaces. On top of being efficient functionally, choosing such a rigging option might make you appear remarkably knowledgeable about state-of-the-art sailing practices at your next regatta!

Furthermore, adventurous sailors may experiment with other techniques like bridle systems or multiple-sheet setups for their mainsheets. Bridle systems involve attaching two separate sheets to either side of a single block which is attached to an intermediate point along the boom – usually via a traveler car system – granting independent control over leech tension of the mainsail. This configuration is popular among racing sailors, as it allows for precise and fine-tuned adjustments, ensuring optimal sail shape in varying wind conditions.

Multiple-sheet setups, also known as barberhaulers or twisters, provide yet another dimension of control over the mainsheet. By attaching one or more auxiliary sheets to strategic points on the boom and leading them through additional blocks connected to various positions on the deck or cockpit, sailors can manipulate the profile of their sails even further. This advanced setup enables utmost flexibili twisting lations – including inducing leeward heel with downwind sailing! Be prepared for lively conversations about your clever rigging choices when showing off this impressive setup at your local marina!

While exploring these different techniques and configurations for mainsheet rigging can elevate your sailing experience to new heights, it’s important to consider your specific needs and skill level before making any changes. Consulting with experienced sailors or seeking advice from sailing professionals will ensure that you select a configuration that suits both your boat and your own ability.

In conclusion, mastering mainsheet rigging is a vital skill for any sailor looking to take their performance to the next level. Whether you choose a traditional end-boom setup or venture into more experimental setups like mid-boom, bridle systems, or multiple-sheet configurations, there are plenty of options available to suit every sailor’s unique style and preferences. So set sail on a voyage of exploration today – who knows what wonders await you as you dive into different mainsheet rigging techniques!

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Mainsheet Systems

By Allen Edwards

PAPOOSE DOUBLE ENDED 5:1 MAINSHEET SYSTEM

8:1 Beachcat

6:1/24:1 gross/fine, 4:1/16:1 gross/fine, 7:1/28:1 gross/fine, 4:1 with dedicated winch, 5:1 with dedicated winch, 2:1 with dedicated winches, admiral's cup 2:1 with dedicated winch, 3:1 with dedicated winch, admiral's cup 4:1 with dedicated winch, 2:1/4:1 swivel base, 3:1/6:1 swivel base, 4:1/8:1 swivel base, 6:1/24:1 cascaded.

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Dufour 41 review: unashamedly aimed at coastal cruising

• David Harding
• September 26, 2024

This new addition to the range, the Dufour 41 seems to promise everything the modern cruising family might want. David Harding sees how she measures up

Product Overview

Price as reviewed:.

There have always been yachts that claim to offer the best of all worlds. They lure you in with the promise of being able to luxuriate in spacious opulence after a day of exhilarating sailing. The message is that there’s no need to compromise. Of course we know that’s not really the case. Any boat is a compromise. It’s just a matter of which elements are compromised more than others. So what sort of compromises have been taken with the Dufour 41?

Time was when we had the cruiser-racers: race with the lads, cruise with the family (no doubt considered a politically-incorrect message these days). By and large, race boats are now race boats that make no pretence at being anything else.

Cruisers, on the other hand, have become more performance-conscious in recent years, reflecting the reality that more speed allows you to sail further in less time. In many cases, today’s new cruising yachts are also faster by virtue of being longer than their predecessors.

Over the years, the elements of compromise in mainstream production cruisers have meant that buyers have, at different times, missed out on something significant. When hulls became beamy and the keels and rudders were shallow, handling and performance were – well, let’s just say, a little below par sometimes. Then when sterns became seriously broad and entries stayed narrow, boats were unbalanced when heeled and the rudders lost grip. Enter twin rudders to help overcome that one.

Too much heel. The Dufour sails best if kept relatively flat. Photo: David Harding

Now we have full bow sections to offset the broad sterns. This is still a relatively new development, and one that has been mentioned in the context of most new cruising yachts you will have read about in YM for some time. It’s definitely the ‘new normal’.

As a previously introduced ‘new normal’ it doesn’t need to be re-introduced here, save that these boats tend to stay more balanced when heeled, even with single rudders. What it also means in the context of a 40-footer with a high volume hull is that it makes for an even higher volume 40-footer.

Unlike the Dufour 37 that I tested earlier this year, the Dufour 41 is more or less the length her name suggests. Her hull is 39ft (11.9m) long and her ‘box’ length, including the moulded bowsprit, is just over 41ft (12.75m). The 37, on the other hand, has a hull 32ft 9in (9.98m) long, but she’s so cavernous below decks that Dufour thought it wouldn’t do her justice to call her a 33.

Article continues below…

Dufour 37 review: Cruiser with all the latest trends

The latest offering by Dufour, the Dufour 37 offers a hull shape that points to the direction of travel in…

Dufour 44 first look: Space for sailing, sunbathing and socialising

Yacht design never seems to stand still, including with the new Dufour 44. Although Dufour’s last 40-something footer, the 430,…

Onwards and upwards

Being more than 6ft (nearly 2m) longer than the 37, the Dufour 41 does feel vast – not that the 37 is exactly small. Big sister is high, wide – at both ends as well as in the middle – and handsome, if you like the styling. Dufour claims that she’s the only boat of her size to offer the option of a four-cabin layout (two in the stern, two in the bow) with full-size forward cabins. That’s only achievable because of the full bow.

To climb aboard and experience the extraordinary space both below decks and above, it’s easiest to use the hinge-down platform at the stern. From here, steps lead up to the relatively high cockpit and there’s plenty of space to move forward between the twin wheels. Scaling the topsides would be more of a challenge, given that freeboard is nearly 5ft (actually 1.42m) by the boarding gates.

If you want all this volume, it has to come from somewhere.

A clear view forward from the helm, thanks to the wide stern and relatively high cockpit with its lazarette and two sole-depth lockers. Photo: David Harding

My questions with the modern style of broad-at-both-ends cruisers haven’t been so much about how the space is used. I have wanted to know how they behave upwind in a seaway. As I found with the 37, a full bow to balance the wide stern really does seem to make the boat more inclined to sail in a straight line when the breeze picks up.

On my test, that was very much in evidence when she was pressed on a reach in a way that you would expect to induce a broach on many boats, or at least to make them seriously hard-nosed. Downwind too, those buoyant forward sections should be an asset.

The 37 impressed me with the way she made into moderately fresh conditions and a modest wind-over-tide Solent chop. This time, on the Dufour 41, we had more wind (from the opposite direction) and more tide too (against the wind). With the breeze gusting into the high ‘teens and nudging over 20 knots, we tucked a slab in the fully-battened main, which was a laminate upgrade from the standard Dacron.

Forward of the mast, instead of the self-tacker, our test boat was fitted with the optional 108% headsail. This calls for the ‘Ocean Pack’ of extra hardware that includes the tracks and the self-tailing Lewmar 45s on the coamings. It also adds nice-to-haves such as the German mainsheet system.

Twin backstays are replaced by a single adjustable backstay on the Performance version. Photo: David Harding

Thoroughly competent

Thus rigged, we set out to enjoy a bright and brisk sail. The Dufour quickly got into a comfortable stride and proved that, like her smaller sister, she’s a thoroughly competent performer. Upwind speeds approaching 7 knots appeared in the flatter patches of water, quickly climbing to over 8 when we bore away and cracked the sheets a few inches. An overlapping headsail retains so much more drive than a self-tacker on a fetch or a reach.

Again, like the 37, the bigger Dufour was crisp and responsive to sail, with a direct feel from the single rudder linked via the Jefa steering system to the twin composite wheels. Basic sail control was easy, with main and headsail sheets led to coaming winches within reach of the wheels.

A FlatDeck furler keeps the headsail’s tack low down. Note the windlass but no on-deck anchor locker. Photo: David Harding

A feature on modern Dufours is the mainsheet bridle. A traveller would be best from a sail trim perspective, but is rarely found on modern production cruisers. In this instance, neither a traveller nor strong-points on deck would work anyway, because the longer (more spacious) cockpits and longer (more easily negotiated) companionways on new models have pushed the mainsheet forward.

It would lose purchase if moved too far along the boom, so the bridle was introduced because it spans the forward end of the companionway without affecting the sprayhood. I suspect most buyers would willingly sacrifice the extra sail control for the space gained by this arrangement.

The mainsheet bridle is a practical solution given the length of the companionway. Photo: David Harding

Looking trim

It’s no criticism of the boat – given what she’s designed for – to say that fine degrees of sail trim aren’t possible. To reduce the excessive twist in the main we cranked down the kicker, and then eased the boom further off the centreline to help keep the boat on her feet.

The Dufour 41 definitely prefers to be sailed fairly flat. This de-twisting is less effective than vang-sheeting in a dinghy or using the traveller in a keelboat, but it helped. We needed to do this both for efficiency and because, in the gusts, the boat would round up if we intentionally refrained from de-powering. When provoked, she would respond with a proper ‘French broach’, passing through the wind and sitting with the headsail aback.

It’s always good to see how a boat behaves when hove to anyway. In this case she sat happily, crabbing at perhaps 1.5 knots, and could readily be gybed round to carry on sailing without needing the mainsheet eased first. It was all very controlled.

There is no shortage of light or ventilation in the saloon, and good use has been made of the space for sensible stowage. Photo: David Harding

We were pushing the boat harder than most owners would choose to. That’s what the second reef is for. It’s just that some of us are used to choosing our sailplan to ensure we’re not under-powered in the lulls. We de-power in the gusts instead.

On a test it’s useful to find where the limits lie, as well as to spend a little time sailing more gently to experience the other perspective.

One other thing we did experience – unrelated to how hard we were pushing at the time – was the occasional thud when we fell off one of the Solent’s famously short, steep waves. That’s by no means unusual. Every boat, no matter what its shape, will like some sea states more than others.

A long hatch and a gentle gradient to the companionway steps allow straightforward access to and from the cockpit. Photo: David Harding

What is beyond question is that the shape of the bow made for a notably dry ride. While filming and photographing from the RIB – which, I was told, was airborne much of the time with only the prop remaining in the water – I saw the spray from the bow being thrown straight out at us rather than back over the deck. Only one dollop of water landed in the cockpit during our sail, and as I was helming at the time I have to accept responsibility for that.

As a rule, boats with the most comfortable motion are those that go through the waves rather than over them, so there’s less bouncing and banging but you get wet instead. You pays your money…

The occasional dollop of water notwithstanding, the cockpit is a comfortable place to be. Sitting outboard at the helm, you have more room than on the 37. Forward of the wheels is a big central table, which provides a leg bracing point and, importantly, a good amount of readily accessible stowage for small items.

Equally importantly, the table is strong enough to stand on when you’re stowing the mainsail. Combined with a gooseneck that’s low enough to let you reach the head of the sail when standing at the mast, it makes for much easier sail stowage than on some boats of this size.

A comfortable island berth dominates the massive forward cabin, which has large hullside ports and discreet lighting just above bunk level. Photo: David Harding

I have noted before that hoisting, reefing and handling a conventional mainsail under way isn’t necessarily a challenge; it’s having to stow it afterwards. If owning a boat with a sail that’s relatively easy to stow saves you having to contemplate the cost, complexity and compromise of in-mast reefing, it’s a big plus.

When you need to use alternative means of propulsion, you have a choice of a 50hp (standard) or 60hp (optional) Volvo diesel. They drive a two-bladed fixed prop unless you prefer to save drag and have a folding one. Our test boat had the 60hp upgrade and the fixed prop, giving us a comfortable 6-plus knots at 1,800rpm and 7.5 knots at 2,200rpm.

Alternatively you can choose Dufour’s Smart Electric drive, with a 16kW generator driving a 25kW electric motor. Whether or not you add the bank of lithium-ion batteries, the generator-electric system is said to be more efficient than a conventional diesel and your range isn’t determined by battery capacity alone.

Twin double aft cabins are symmetrical, with enough space beneath the cockpit to sit up in the bunks and read or enjoy the view of the outside world. Photo: David Harding

Moving forwards

When you leave the cockpit and head towards that broad bow, you find yourself on comfortably wide side decks with a moulded upstand along the gunwale providing a foot brace if you’re on the leeward side.

Everything looks functional on deck. Features include a fixed deck light running across the coachroof abaft the mast. Windows in the forward end of the coachroof add to the already plentiful light in the forecabin (with a view out, if you’re tall enough). Working on the foredeck is easy because it’s so big. It’s more likely to be used as a sunpad.

Space and comfort is also the theme below decks. Those of us familiar with older designs will one day stop remarking on the extraordinary volume of today’s cruisers. Until then we will no doubt keep mentioning it. It’s light and airy down below, with a combination of pale woodwork and light panelling. The finish is generally tidy for a production boat and it’s more woody than some.

The linear galley features a large peninsular fridge with front and top access, and lots of natural light from long hullside ports. Photo: David Harding

Access to the systems seems good. You even have removable headlining panels. Twin double cabins in the stern are part of every layout. You have a range of options further forward according to how many heads, showers and cabins you want. A linear galley runs along the starboard side. The compartment to port, opposite the heads, is a dedicated shower as standard or can be used for stowage, an extra heads or more galley space.

Of particular note is the ability to walk from one end of the accommodation to the other on a level sole. And headroom throughout is such that, unless you’re well over 6ft tall, you don’t need to duck even through doorways. Because of the long companionway and gentle gradient to the steps, you can simply walk up and down them. Moving around is exceptionally easy.

Broad bow sections and full-length chines help throw spray aside, so relatively little finds its way aft along the deck. Photo: David Harding

Dufour 41 specifications

LOA: 12.75m (41ft 8in) LWL: 11.17m (36ft 6in) Beam: 4.30m (14ft 1in) Draught Standard fin: 1.90m (6ft 3in) Draught Shallow fin: 1.75m (5ft 9in) Draught Deep fin: 2.10m (6ft 11in) Light displacement: 9,700kg (21,384lb) Ballast: 2,600kg (5,732lb) Ballast ratio: 26.8% Displacement / Length: 196.3 Sail area (main & self tacker): 73.5m2 (791sq ft) SA/D ratio: 17.06 Diesel: 250L (55 gal) Water: 250L (55 gal) + 180L (40 gal) optional Engine: Volvo 50hp Transmission: Saildrive RCD category: A Designer: Umberto Felci Interior: Arizio Design Builder: Dufour Yachts

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For the big production builders, it’s essential to know what buyers want. There’s a lot of new money coming in, from people with little or no sailing experience, so you’re never going to sell enough boats if you build for the purist. That’s not to say that boats like the Dufour 41 won’t appeal to experienced sailors as well. Undoubtedly they will, and those with experience will understand what they’re designed for. While she’s capable of crossing oceans, the Dufour is unashamedly optimised for coastal cruising and Channel hopping (or the equivalent). There’s nothing to say that 40-footers have to sail a long way. People want bigger, more comfortable boats these days, and size is often unrelated to cruising ambitions. Whatever you buy her for, the Dufour certainly sails very nicely in the sort of conditions in which most people will want to be out. She’s respectably fast, responsive and easy to manage. Attention to detail is good and there’s an almost unbelievable amount of room everywhere.

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Traveler Systems

Traveler controls must be powerful enough to move the car easily under load and lead to a position where crew can conveniently operate them. Smaller boats usually position controls so the helmsman can make adjustments. Larger boats position controls for the mainsheet trimmer.

Standard Boat Length: * Small Boat: 22' - 28' (6.7 - 8.5 m) Midrange: 29' - 34' (8.8 - 10.4 m) Big Boat: 35' - 42' (10.7 - 12.8 m)

*Refer to Ordering Travelers Chart for in-depth specifications by boat type.

2:1 Cam on Car

This system features cleats on adjustable arms that can be angled. On flush deck boats face cleats down the length of the track. On boats with seat backs angle the cleats forward or aft.

3:1 Windward Sheeting

The windward sheeting traveler lets crew pull the car above the centerline without releasing the leeward control line. Tack and the car stays in the same position, ready to be pulled to the new windward side.

4:1 Windward Sheeting

2:1 Remote Cleat

Use this 2:1system on flush deck boats like the J/24 where crew sit outboard of the traveler and loads are nearly vertical.

Standard 3:1

This system, with cleats on the track, is used on boats under 10.7 m (35 ft).

Standard 4:1

This 4:1 system is used on moderately-sized cruising and racing boats. Control blocks and cleats mount on track ends.

2:1 with Dedicated Winch

Install this system on big boats when winches are used to adjust the traveler.

4:1 remote cleat

If the traveler is mounted ahead of the companionway, place the cleats at the aft-edge of the cabin house.

3:1 Remote Cleat

When the crew sits above the traveler, lead control lines up the cockpit sides to a convenient cleat on the coaming.

Underdeck Traveler Control

Racing boats often keep decks clean by running the traveler tackle belowdeck. This system has a 6:1 purchase that exits at a central control pod forward of the wheel or tiller, which allows the mainsheet trimmer to easily adjust the traveler. Popular on boats like the Farr® 40.

Farr is a registered trademark of Bruce K Farr.

This system works well with a dodger.

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Westinghouse Marine Division To Supply Sealift Propulsion System Components Submergible Deck To Recover Oil

Westinghouse's Marine Div. in Sunnyvale, Calif, has made a committed entry into the U.S. Navy's Strategic Sealift propulsion market by positioning itself to supply propulsion components as well as complete propulsion systems.

Westinghouse officials said the company is making this long-term commitment to meet the future requirements of its propulsion customers by teaming with several of the world's leading marine propulsion component suppliers and by choosing New Orleans, La., as the site for a new state-of-the-art diesel engine assembly and test facility.

"These agreements and the new assembly and test facility position Westinghouse as a high-quality U.S. source for propulsion components and complete propulsion systems, including diesel engines, reduction gears, line shafting and controllable pitch propellers," said Jack Orme, Westinghouse Marine Div. Diesel Propulsion manager. "And these capabilities allow us to help shipyards be more competitive." Westinghouse has teamed with New Sulzer Diesel Ltd. of Winterthur, Switzerland to market and manufacture low-and mediumspeed diesel engines in the U.S., and with Sulzer Escher Wyss of Ravensburg, Germany, for controllable pitch propellers. Westinghouse will supply reduction gears from its Sunnyvale facility. The agreement with Sulzer Escher Wyss also includes Jorgensen Forge of Seattle, Wash., an experienced source for the forging and machining of shafts, shaftline components and other equipment.

Westinghouse is a world-class designer and manufacturer of complete ship propulsion systems, and in recent years has been selected by the U.S. Navy to design, develop and produce the next generation of efficient gas turbine engines for navy surface combatant ships, as well as the advanced propulsion systems for its two most recent submarines, the Los Angeles and Seawolf classes. In addition, Westinghouse-built reduction gears drive more than 100 Navy ships, including destroyers and cruisers. The company has designed and manufactured propulsion turbines, reduction gear sets, control systems and turbine generator sets for ship electrical service for most of the century.

"These systems offer high reliability, long intervals between overhauls and low fuel oil consumption, which translates into low operating costs," said Mr. Orme. "Operators will reduce long-term costs as well when factors such as system reliability and operating life are taken into account." Westinghouse plans to manufacture major components such as cylinder liners, pistons, rods, heads, valves and other equipment for these engines in its Sunnyvale, Calif, facility, and assemble and test the completed diesel engine system at a new 200,000-sq.-ft. diesel marine propulsion assembly and test facility in New Orleans. The new facility is scheduled to become operational in early 1995, in time to meet delivery requirements for new construction Sealift ships.

"This facility makes it possible for complete low- and medium-speed diesel engines to be delivered by barge directly to shipyards without the need for extensive disassembly and reassembly," Mr. Orme said. Westinghouse intends to market and manufacture Wyss model.

"This new site provides a major advantage to shipyards because it significantly reduces the number of man hours required to build and deliver a marine diesel engine, which would otherwise be shipped by rail or truck. On a low-speed engine alone, the waterfront facility will save thousands of man hours," in turn providing cost and schedule benefits to customers. For medium-speed diesel engines and gas turbine applications, Westinghouse will supply reduction gears, shafting and controllable pitch propellers. Westinghouse has an 80-year history in marine reduction gear manufacturing. The company has off-the-shelf designs for double-input medium-speed diesel reduction gears and a single input LM2500 gas turbine reduction gear; more than 125 Westinghouse reduction gears for LM2500's are in controllable pitch propellers such as this Escher service or have been delivered.

To complete the package, Westinghouse announced in February an agreement with Sulzer Escher Wyss for Westinghouse to market and manufacture large, high-horsepower controllable pitch propellers in the U.S. for Sealift and other Navy ships. Sulzer Escher Wyss is a leading designer of controllable pitch propellers, with more than 1,800 Escher Wyss propellers in service worldwide, including a 46,000 horsepower controllable pitch propeller.

Westinghouse/Escher Wyss controllable pitch propellers will be capable of propelling ships up to 50,000 hp per propeller shaft.

For more information on Westinghouse marine products and services.

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Entertainment | Review: ‘Warhammer 40,000: Space Marine 2’…

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Entertainment | review: ‘warhammer 40,000: space marine 2’ leverages a dark sci-fi lore with layered gameplay, saber interactive foray into the “warhammer 40,000” has surprisingly deep gameplay that’s a blast for co-operative play.

It’s filled with space orks, chaos demons and highly advanced aeldari, to name a few factions. Humanity is at the center of things, but it’s a grim and militaristic version mixed with a religious zeal for authority. “Warhammer 40,000: Space Marine 2” drops players into this world as Demetrian Titus, the protagonist of the original. After his heroics in the original, he was branded a heretic because of his unusual resistance to corruption energies. He disappeared from the records only to reappear while trying to save the planet of Kadaku from a Tyranid invasion.

The insectlike creatures are a dangerous foe and that’s proven when a Carnifex critically wounded Titus. He was nearly dead but resurrected and ended up reunited with his old faction of Ultramarines. He’s tasked with jumping back into the fray with two new squadmates Sergeant Gadriel and Brother Chairon. They have to fend off waves of the highly adaptable creatures and rescue leaders of a mysterious Project Aurora.

That leads to more conspiracy as the cobbled-together team learns how to work and trust each other as they fight an endless horde and a chaotic foe from Titus’ past.

Hand-to-hand combat presents its own hurdles as players must learn to parry and dodge attacks. The developer, Saber Interactive, layers more smart mechanics that accentuate the combat without being too complex. For example, players can parry adversaries easily if they hit their block button when they see a blue circle alerting players to an incoming attack. After doing that, players can perform a powerful blow with a pistol.

Another wrinkle is how health is recovered in combat. When wading into a sea of enemies, players must constantly swing their chainsaw sword to stay alive because eliminating the cannon fodder recovers health. In addition, Titus has an armor bar that gives players an extra level of health, but when it crumbles under enemy attacks, players can refill their armor by stunning foes and finishing them off by pressing an execution button for a gory kill.

RIGHT WEAPONS FOR THE JOB Weapons provide another element of strategy. “Space Marine 2” limits players to two firearms and a melee weapon but it gives them ample opportunity to switch the arms out. They’ll have to adapt their approach for each level based on the environment and what they expect will happen. If there’s an open area with long sightlines, it’s best to pick a long-range Bolt Gun with a scope. If Titus enters an underground area full of corridors, they’ll need a Melta Rifle for those narrow areas.

Saber Interactive also switches up abilities to create more variety. In a few levels, Titus and his crew don Jump Packs that allow them to soar through the air and attack adversaries from above. It’s used a few times and creates a nice verticality in some stages, but sadly, it isn’t used enough.

The varied abilities and limited weapons prop up a mission design that’s simplistic. The main campaign doesn’t ask players to do too many complex tasks. Instead, “Space Marine 2” leans heavily on the lore of the “Warhammer 40,000” universe to create epic moments where players fend off a Tyranid swarm.

AN EXCELLENT CO-OP EXPERIENCE Thankfully, that doesn’t extend to the multiplayer modes, where players will spend the bulk of their time. Eternal War is a decent competitive mode where players of different classes battle each other while the excellent Operations mode allows players to take on the role of alternate squads who help Titus in the central campaign. It’s sort of like the B-side of the main narrative.

Players choose from one of six classes in these cooperative missions and set off in a three-person squad to accomplish an objective. This is where teamwork comes into play as players face more difficult circumstances and have to rely on the squads varied skills to survive. It’s also filled with more complex tasks that require more collaboration.

The main campaign can also be played cooperatively, but what makes Operations different is that players build out their own space marine. It has progression systems that let players put points into perk and weapons trees. It lets players customize a class toward a playstyle while also beefing them up for more difficult missions.

All of this creates a game that feels more fleshed out and focused from the original while leveraging the rich mythos of the “Warhammer 40,000” universe.

‘Warhammer 40,000: Space Marine 2″

3½ stars out of 4 Platform: PC, PlayStation 5, Xbox Series X and Series S Rating: Mature

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