manual windlass for sailboat

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choice of manual windlass

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I have been considering a windlass for my boat. It's a USC Polaris 36 (aka Union 36). Laden, she weighs close to 11 tons. The two options I have been looking at are.... Lofrans Royal Manual Windlass ...and.... The "Giglio" by the Italian outfit Italwinch. The windlass must be a manual unit. Does anyone have an opinion of either? Thanks.  

I've had really good use and customer service from Lofranz. I'm on my second, after the first broke it's legs (still operated fine) after 30+ years. If I may ask, is there a specific reason why you want a manual windlass? In my experience, for cruising a manual windlass can be downright dangerous, but if you have no interest in thinking about an electric windlass, I'll not continue now and waste your time.  

I notice he did not actually answer your question, politely asked. I'm not a gadget guy, and I'm not a safety maven, but I'd have to give the nod to electric by a wide margin, and given production volumes, cheaper too. --- And that after nearly loosing a finger in a windlass. I was kneeling on one knee only and a wake through my hand onto the chain at the same time my knee was knocked onto the up-switch. The glove saved me. I mention this because after that experience I always either sat, stood, or knelt on BOTH knees. Never had another incident of any kind. If I were installing an electric windlass I would not use a foot switch for this reason; you can fall on it. I would install a switch on the rail. --- I have had an electric windlass fail twice, probably with similarly sized ground tackle. Fortunately, the conditions were moderate. One of the times I was alone. It wasn't a big deal. The nice thing about a cat is that you can just pile the chain on the tramp for later sorting!  

Mine is a Plath bronze. It's worked flawlessly for over a decade, and is original equipment on my 43-year-old boat. They occasionally come up on the used market. The other windlass I own (but have never used) is the Simpson-Lawrence seatiger 555. Great reviews. And you can still buy them new of you want, but they also come up on the used market fairly frequently.  

I’m. It a cruiser but anchor well over 100 times a year. Love my Simpson Lawrence Hyspeed which I’ve used for 23 years with 1 rebuild for $250. Never let me down. 90 ft chain, 280 rope rode. Simple double action. I like the Lofranz. If we bit the bullet I would get that. No want for an electric one. To expensive, lots to go wrong you don’t have with a manual. It if you have the Seatiger...go with that  

capta : How is a manual windlass dangerous? Why is an electric windlass not?  

I might add that the retrieval speed of my electric windlass IS related to the force... In light wind the retrieval rate is I suppose spec. When there is virtually no or very little load it moves very quickly such as when the bow is almost over the anchor. Manual windlass moves at the same slow rate. When I single hand and conditions are moderate and I am in an anchorage with boats around it is important to be at the helm with motor ready to be put in gear. The cockpit windlass switch allows more to get the anchor up AND avoid other boats and quickly steer out of the anchorage. Try that with a manual cranker. Having had both I can without reservation say that the electric is far superior hands done. I paid about $1,500 for Maxwell and the replacement and a new Lofrans lists for $1,300 a Maxwell sells for $2K. When I replaced my first Maxwell after 20 years I use a lower power model because most of my retrievals were not requiring 1,500# and I downsized to 1,000# and notice no difference. I don't give a moment's pause if I think I want to move my anchor location... and have rather than ask someone who anchors after and too close to move. It's absolutely no effort to anchor with the electric windlass.  

SanderO said: I might add that the retrieval speed of my electric windlass IS related to the force... In light wind the retrieval rate is I suppose spec. When there is virtually no or very little load it moves very quickly such as when the bow is almost over the anchor. Manual windlass moves at the same slow rate.. Click to expand...

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I'm not anti-electric. I just know, after a decade of traveling and anchoring in pretty challenging areas, that a manual windlass has never been the limiting factor. It might require a different approach at times, but the idea that it is more dangerous simply isn't supported by any data I'm aware of. Anecdotes are useful. Mine is I've never seen any boats come to harm due to their manual windlasses. I have personally known of a number of boats with electrics who have suffered serious situations when their electrics crapped out - something I've never experienced, or heard about, with a manual. Does that make electrics less safe?  

Mike is correct. Thought experiment. Windlass fails... What to do? You grab the rode or the chain and pull. What are you pulling as the anchor is still set? Answer: You are pulling your boat toward the anchor. Chain catenary is more "powerful" than a rope catenary... count on that. With rope you are pulling the boat and hopefully get some help from boat's momentum. MOMENTUM is the key to retrieving an anchor without motor to it. So I CAN motor to the anchor... AND retrieve it with windlass with the handy cockpit remote. And with some wind strengths that is exactly what I will do. A shot of foward.... neutral and let the windlass do its thing. 'Nother shot of forward and then the windlass again and so on... until windlass and boat's momentum are all that's needed. Boat's momentum takes it over the anchor and it breaks free and I can motor as the anchor is lifted through the water onto the bow roller. I can also motor to a relatively crowded anchorage and drop the hook from the cockput with the remote switch. I have to get the anchor off the roller a bit... in advance so it's weight pulls the chain. I don't free wheel the windlass when I drop. I let the wind push the boat as the windlass lays out the chain and I observe the depth markers in the chain. When I stop the windlass the wind will usually catch and push the bow off the wind. If the anchor sets... the bow will swing back. Then I observe that it the bow yaws back and forth as a sign the anchor is set. Then I set up the snubber... let out some more chain and observe the force on the compensator as it unwinds when the anchor is set.  

Have had both manual and electric. Have had either one for decades. Single or been two running the boat. Very rarely more than two. If I was on low 30’er and anchoring in 20-30’ feet but never more than that and never in very crowded anchorages don’t think it makes much difference electric v manual. However think the biggest advantage of electric is it gets the anchor up fast once it’s broken free. Although we stop the boat for the last few feet in a breeze or strong current you can drift a lot. Both when doing resets or leaving even with two you can get in trouble. Even pick up another rode. If you don’t stop you can scar up the front of your boat. If you power or sail around with the anchor in the water the chain can damage things even with a mixed rode. Going backwards slowly is sometimes a good technique to get the anchor up and flipped so it runs into the roller correctly oriented. Depends on the anchor. Hasn’t been necessary with the Rocna. Windlass never moves the boat. Use wave action or the bow thruster to break free not the engine. Pulling sideways take much less force. I worry about the pawls in the windlass be it manual or electric. Will do what I can to not excessively load the pawls. When stuck will tie a truckers hitch to the chain if a retriever wasn’t set up. Use that line doubled through a block to get 2 to1 purchase and run it to a primary if I think it safer than the windlass. Think folks don’t maintain their windlasses just like winches. Either electric or manual should last longer than you. Think if maintained it’s a non issue.  

I've found that once I'm straight above the anchor it will brake free in almost every case, though admittedly it takes a bit longer with the Rocna, but unless I'm in an emergency situation, I won't use the engine to break my anchor free. As for "Windlass fails..What to do?" I assume you are speaking of an electric. "Lots to go wrong you don’t have with a manual." Like what, specifically? You put in the handle and presto, you have a manual windlass! What's the problem with that? So you have both available and that's got to be better than only manual. I can see no plus at all for a manual windlass.  

capta said: I've found that once I'm straight above the anchor it will brake free in almost every case, though admittedly it takes a bit longer with the Rocna, but unless I'm in an emergency situation, I won't use the engine to break my anchor free. As for "Windlass fails..What to do?" I assume you are speaking of an electric. "Lots to go wrong you don't have with a manual." Like what, specifically? You put in the handle and presto, you have a manual windlass! What's the problem with that? So you have both available and that's got to be better than only manual. I can see no plus at all for a manual windlass. Click to expand...

It makes sense for the foot switches to have hinged covers that can be easily flipped open with a toe. I think of mine as if they are gas torch flames when near them When you have others messing around on your boat, flip the breaker I do like the foot switches  

'Nother thread off the rails...  

And you consider your contribution helpful because?  

Good stuff. After figuring out my ground tackle set up this was going to be my next question. I was wanting to go manual as well for all the reasons mentioned re: electric. I'm down here at my boat and a dock neighbor wouldn't have it. So it got me thinking, since I never did, how about electric? I do see that there seems to be some suited for my boat that also have a manual function, so to me that sounds like a win-win. Other than the draw on the battery bank, and the running of wiring and switches and **** it seems that I have my bases covered for a power failure in the heat of the battle. No? What manual windlasses are out there other than this Lofrans one that I see?  

Not a battery drain!!!!!!!!!!!! When you are using your windlass your engine in on and it's replenishing amps drawn by the windlass. And it's on for no more than a minute or two at most I would think because it moves the chain at 50'/min or thereabouts.  

Originally Posted by pdqaltair View Post I notice he did not actually answer your question, politely asked. Click to expand...

The manual option of the Maxwell VWC 1000 and 1500 is very slow. I've never used it actually but did try it. If I remember they provide an alum.. lever which you insert... rotate. remove and then reinsert, rotate and so on. YUCK But so far the windlass is trouble free and the only PITA is running large cables to the house bank. But it is use for such a short time the battery drain is negligible... and as mentioned engine is running and replenishing amps windlass uses. Also as noted the catenary does the real work...and the forward momentum of the boat.  

When you are using your windlass your engine in on and it's replenishing amps drawn by the windlass. And it's on for no more than a minute or two at most I would think because it moves the chain at 50'/min or thereabouts." Click to expand...

A body have a hydraulic windlass?  

Problem with winches is getting the chain or rode down inside the locker.... manually. THAT is it usually a royal PITA... like pulling it up manually piling on the deck and then getting it stowed getting it through the hawser hole. Chain will drop because it's heavy unlike rope.  

Depends on the boat and the hawse arrangement I suppose. On my current boat, with all-chain, it just falls down through the hawse naturally. I have a decent dead-fall height so it's easy, even if I'm doing it by hand. My previous boat didn't have a windlass, so everything was done by hand. It was a rope/chain rode. The chain fell nicely through the hawse hole, but the rope was the PITA. Usually I'd end up with the rode piled on deck. Once underway I'd go back up and feed it down.  

The Lofrans Royal says you get about 12"/ pull . That doesn't seem bad.  

Under a grand Wiring not included https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=599900  

Not buying it. Undersized , only 1000 lb pull. Won't last. Toy windlass with no drum or capstan. Great for a Grady White. At least profer up something worth it . Doesn't get good ratings . The Maxwell, Lofrans, Muir that are worth anything start around &1500. Even the good Lewmars are that. Is this the windlass you would recommend to a friend of yours putting one on his new boat? You have foot switch's, heavy wire and a robust battery bank to add to the price . I am a DYI person and could install but many won't / can't/ don't have the time. So add labor in. Then of course over the life of the windlass you have solenoids which seem to last 3-4 years. If you are considering a new windlass to add to improve your sailboat don't undershoot what it will cost.$2500 is a good estimate.  

We don’t have a switch in the cockpit. The remote is on a wire ~30’ long. Our windlass has an up and down button. Both are extremely fast to the point I think down is faster than gravity free fall. I always want to see the last few feet come up. Having had small stones and other debris stuck inside chain links want to see the whole chain come up. I want to see the shank rotated correctly so it goes over the roller correctly. I want to see what’s on the chain and anchor. I commonly go up/down repetitively to clean either anchor or chain or both. See no advantage to a cockpit remote . I get the anchor up then slack it a wee bit. That takes the strain off the internals of the windlass leading to a longer trouble free life. I’ve used a short line or the mantus hook to have no strain on the last foot of chain if it’s bumpy or going for more than a short trip. Use plumber putty to block the hole if on passage. Both manual and electric break. Usually having nothing to do with the electric motor but rather parts shared by both types.  

outbound said: We don't have a switch in the cockpit. The remote is on a wire ~30' long. Our windlass has an up and down button. Both are extremely fast to the point I think down is faster than gravity free fall. I always want to see the last few feet come up. Having had small stones and other debris stuck inside chain links want to see the whole chain come up. I want to see the shank rotated correctly so it goes over the roller correctly. I want to see what's on the chain and anchor. I commonly go up/down repetitively to clean either anchor or chain or both. See no advantage to a cockpit remote . I get the anchor up then slack it a wee bit. That takes the strain off the internals of the windlass leading to a longer trouble free life. I've used a short line or the mantus hook to have no strain on the last foot of chain if it's bumpy or going for more than a short trip. Use plumber putty to block the hole if on passage. Both manual and electric break. Usually having nothing to do with the electric motor but rather parts shared by both types. Click to expand...

Would also mention this year was taught another best practice. If it's bumpy and there's green water frequently across the bow it's a good idea to turn the windlass breaker OFF. We've always done that for the bow thruster but now have added that to the list. Think the focus here on breakage is misdirected. Biggest mistakes are lack of routine servicing and using the windlass for anything but picking up the rode. We use the engine every time. Whoever is on the bow signals rt/lt, forward and stop. Chain is up and down when retrieving. Bow thruster is a big help doing this. If alone will go back to engine controls. Power up enough there's no strain on the chain and retrieve as we drift back. Think except in dead calm using just the weight of the chain is insufficient. We are ready to go but don't put sails up until we're outside the anchorage. Don't want bumper cars. When I had smaller boats had a mooring. Did sail on and off. To the point that when it came time to haul engine overheated. Too many mussels growing in the exhaust!! Think that year had less than 2 hours on the engine the whole season. So if and when I go back to small boats if possible want an electric with a good fallback manual setting. Found the nerve racking time is how rapidly you can get the anchor up, sorted out and leave to open water. Pushing a button as you watch it come up then quickly getting back to the helm seems preferable even on a small boat. However there's a size (~<30') where electric makes no sense and a size (>60') where hydraulic makes better sense. If manual was required would go vertical with a longest handle possible. Especially with manuals the lay out of the bow( sloop v cutter, position of chain locker, sprit or no sprit etc.) is more determinate of what windlass to use then other considerations.  

Hey now! I don't know much about anything and certainly less than that when it comes to windlass's (?). I do know that my only experience with one was sailing from SD to La Paz and that vessel had a manual windlass. And I really liked it, it worked perfectly. I now have my own boat and am considering one (windlass) as well. I was always set on a manual but now I'm leaning toward an electric that has an emergency manual capability but am really trying to study up before a throw more $$ in the hole. Now, remember, I don't know jack shizzle so tell me, why do I see some windlass with capstan and with out them, so please enlighten me if you will....  

First and foremost... will you anchor regularly or pick up moorings and pay for slips? If you do anchor frequently definitely consider a windlass. And you might want all chain... which doesn't chafe and its weight assists in retrieval. Many people pick up a mooring for a variety of reasons. If your boat is not heavy and you can use lighter chain and a small windlass. it need not break the bank. Install will involve switches and wiring to a battery.  

Very impressed by the Plath bronze manual windlasses. A piece of boat jewelry that should last forever.  

And it also has nothing to do with slips or moorings. We anchor 95% of the time.  

Nah, we already hammered all that out in a different thread. I'm set. I'm simply asking for brands of each, electric and manual, that have served people well. This thread has gone round about the benefits of each so I'm leaving that horse lye and simply wondering which models? And why the difference for with capstan or with out?  

I recommend Maxwell... VWC series I began with a 1100 and when I replaced after 15 years went for the smaller 1000 motor... everything else was the same. I have a spare 1100 motor. You can see the slots at the base for the handle to use it manually. Slot at the top is to tighten/loosen rope gypsy.  

Manual Ive used these and they are robust and easy to use and install, I would recommend. Lofrans- Royalhttps://www.p2marine.com/lofrans-royal-windlass-anodized-manual?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjKn5hOq-6QIViJyzCh0R_QRYEAQYByABEgJ2JfD_BwE Powered Muir Lofrans Maxwell All good many variations . Some have no free fall, some have no manual retrieval, different power - do not skimp here.  

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Manual Anchor Windlass on a Boat: How to Operate and Maintain It

Manual anchor windlasses are an essential piece of equipment for boats of all sizes. They are used to retrieve the anchor quickly and efficiently, making it easier for boaters to navigate their vessels.

However, using a manual anchor windlass can be a challenging task, especially for those who are new to boating or have limited experience with this equipment.

Understanding how a manual anchor windlass works and its various components is crucial to using it correctly. There are different types of manual anchor windlasses available, each with its unique features and benefits.

Boaters must choose the right type of manual anchor windlass based on their boat size and use. Proper installation, regular maintenance, and following safety precautions are also essential to ensure the manual anchor windlass functions correctly.

Key Takeaways

• Understanding the different types of manual anchor windlasses available is crucial to choosing the right one for your boat.
• Proper installation, regular maintenance, and following safety precautions are essential to ensure the manual anchor windlass functions correctly.
• Troubleshooting common problems and having knowledge of frequently asked questions can help boaters use their manual anchor windlass with confidence.

Understanding Anchor Windlass

An anchor windlass is a mechanical device used to lift or lower heavy objects, especially anchors on a boat. It is a crucial component of any vessel that requires anchoring. The windlass is located on the foredeck of the boat and can be either manual or motor-driven.

Types of Anchor Windlasses

There are two main types of anchor windlasses: horizontal and vertical. The choice between the two depends on the space available on the deck and in the anchor locker. The height of the fall is also an important consideration.

Horizontal windlasses are more common on smaller boats and are ideal for boats with limited deck space. They are designed to be mounted on the deck and require less space in the anchor locker. They are also easier to install and maintain.

Vertical windlasses, on the other hand, are more commonly found on larger boats. They are designed to be mounted below the deck and require more space in the anchor locker. They are also more powerful and can handle larger anchors and heavier chain.

Components of an Anchor Windlass

An anchor windlass consists of several components that work together to lift or lower the anchor. These include:

• Gypsy or Wildcat: This is the part of the windlass that grips the chain or rope and pulls it in or lets it out.
• Chain Wheel: This is the part of the windlass that the chain runs over. It is designed to prevent the chain from slipping off the gypsy.
• Motor or Handle: This is the part of the windlass that provides the power to lift or lower the anchor. It can be either a small electric motor or a manual handle.
• Brake: This is the part of the windlass that prevents the anchor from slipping out of control. It is essential for safety and should be checked regularly.

Using an Anchor Windlass

Using an anchor windlass is relatively straightforward. To lower the anchor, the operator needs to release the brake and let the chain or rope run out. To lift the anchor, the operator needs to engage the windlass and pull the chain or rope in.

It is essential to ensure that the anchor is securely fastened before using the windlass. The operator should also be familiar with the windlass’s operation and safety features to prevent accidents.

In conclusion, an anchor windlass is an essential component of any boat that requires anchoring. It is crucial to choose the right type of windlass and ensure that it is properly maintained to ensure safe and reliable operation.

Types of Manual Anchor Windlass

When it comes to manual anchor windlasses, there are two main types available in the market: vertical windlasses and horizontal windlasses. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, and the choice largely depends on the boat owner’s preference and usage.

Vertical Windlasses

Vertical windlasses are the most common type of manual windlass found on boats. They are designed to be mounted vertically on the deck and are operated by a handle that is attached to a shaft. The anchor rode is fed through a gypsy wheel and a chain stripper, which helps to prevent the chain from jamming.

One of the main advantages of vertical windlasses is that they are compact and take up less deck space compared to horizontal windlasses.

They are also easier to install, and the anchor rode is less likely to twist when being retrieved. However, vertical windlasses are generally slower than horizontal windlasses, and the handle can be difficult to operate when the anchor is stuck.

Horizontal Windlasses

Horizontal windlasses are less common than vertical windlasses but are gaining popularity among boat owners. They are designed to be mounted horizontally on the deck and are operated by a handle that is attached to a shaft. The anchor rode is fed through a chain gypsy and a rope drum.

One of the main advantages of horizontal windlasses is that they are faster than vertical windlasses and require less effort to operate. They are also better suited for boats with a high freeboard and can be used to retrieve the anchor from a wider range of angles.

However, horizontal windlasses are larger and take up more deck space than vertical windlasses. They are also more complex to install and maintain, and the anchor rode is more likely to twist when being retrieved.

In summary, the choice between a vertical and horizontal manual anchor windlass largely depends on the boat owner’s preferences and usage. Vertical windlasses are compact, easy to install, and less likely to twist the anchor rode, while horizontal windlasses are faster and better suited for boats with a high freeboard.

Components of a Manual Anchor Windlass

A manual anchor windlass is an essential piece of equipment on a boat or sailboat. It is used to raise or drop the anchor quickly, easily, and reliably. A manual windlass is powered by a crank or handle, which is rotated by the user to operate the windlass.

The gypsy is the part of the windlass that engages with the anchor chain . It is a wheel-shaped component that has teeth on its circumference. The teeth grip the chain and move it either up or down, depending on the direction of rotation of the windlass.

The gypsy is made of durable materials such as bronze, stainless steel, or aluminum to withstand the harsh marine environment.

The lever is the component that provides the user with mechanical advantage to operate the windlass. It is attached to the gypsy and is used to rotate the gypsy to raise or lower the anchor chain.

The lever can be a simple handle or a more complex lever system that provides additional mechanical advantage. The lever is made of materials such as steel or aluminum, which are strong enough to withstand the forces generated during operation.

The spool is the component that holds the anchor rode. The anchor rode is the combination of the anchor chain and the anchor line. The spool is usually located on the top of the windlass and is used to wrap the anchor rode around it.

The spool is made of materials such as steel or aluminum and is designed to withstand the forces generated during anchor retrieval.

In conclusion, a manual anchor windlass is a simple yet essential piece of equipment on a boat or sailboat. It consists of three main components: the gypsy, the lever, and the spool. The gypsy engages with the anchor chain, the lever provides a mechanical advantage, and the spool holds the anchor rode. With these components, a manual anchor windlass provides reliable and efficient anchor retrieval.

Working of a Manual Anchor Windlass

A manual anchor windlass is a mechanical device that is used to raise and lower the anchor on a boat. It is operated by hand, using a crank or handle, and is typically located on the foredeck of the boat. The manual windlass is a simple and reliable piece of equipment that has been used for centuries by sailors around the world.

The basic operation of a manual anchor windlass is relatively straightforward. The windlass consists of a drum or wheel that is attached to a shaft. The anchor chain is wrapped around the drum, and the shaft is turned by the operator using the crank or handle. As the shaft turns, the chain is pulled in or let out, raising or lowering the anchor as needed.

One of the key advantages of a manual anchor windlass is its simplicity. Unlike electric windlasses, which require complex electrical systems and wiring, a manual windlass can be operated with nothing more than a strong arm and a little elbow grease. This makes it an ideal choice for boats that do not have a lot of electrical power or that are used in remote locations where electricity is not readily available.

Another advantage of a manual anchor windlass is its durability. Because it is a mechanical device, it is less prone to the types of failures that can occur with electrical systems. This means that it is less likely to break down or malfunction, which can be a major problem when you are out on the water.

Overall, a manual anchor windlass is a simple and reliable piece of equipment that can be a valuable addition to any boat. Whether you are a seasoned sailor or a novice boater, a manual windlass can help make your boating experience safer and more enjoyable.

Installation Process

Installing a manual anchor windlass on a boat can be a challenging task, but with the right tools and instructions, it can be done in a few hours. This section will provide a step-by-step guide on how to install a manual anchor windlass on a boat.

Choosing the Right Location

The first step in the installation process is to choose the right location for the windlass. The location should be close to the bow of the boat and should have enough space for the windlass and the anchor chain. It is also important to choose a location that is easily accessible and does not interfere with other equipment on the boat.

Mounting the Windlass

Once the location has been chosen, the next step is to mount the windlass. The windlass should be mounted securely to the deck using bolts and washers. It is important to ensure that the windlass is mounted level and that the bolts are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Securing the Windlass

After the windlass has been mounted, the next step is to secure it. This involves connecting the anchor chain to the windlass and securing it with the chain stopper. It is important to ensure that the chain is properly aligned with the windlass and that the chain stopper is securely fastened.

In summary, installing a manual anchor windlass on a boat requires choosing the right location, mounting the windlass securely to the deck, and securing the windlass to the anchor chain. With the right tools and instructions, this can be done in a few hours, providing a reliable and efficient way to anchor a boat.

Maintenance Tips

Regular cleaning.

To keep the manual anchor windlass on a boat functioning properly, it is important to clean it regularly. The windlass should be rinsed with fresh water after each use to remove salt, sand, and mud. It is also recommended to rinse the rode before it enters the anchor locker to prevent debris from spattering onto the winch components.

Polished, chromed, or painted parts should be cleaned with a mild detergent and can be waxed and polished for added protection . Nylon anchor rodes have excellent stretch characteristics for load and shock absorption, but they tend to shrink around the first link of chain. Therefore, it is important to check the rope/chain splice regularly.

Lubrication

Lubricating the moving parts of the windlass is crucial for proper function and longevity. The chainwheel and clutch cone system should be disassembled, and all moving parts and fasteners should be lubricated with lithium grease. The surfaces of the two clutch cones and the chainwheel where they meet should be cleaned and greased thoroughly.

Inspection for Damage

Regular inspection for damage is essential to ensure the safety and proper operation of the windlass. The windlass should be tested for proper alignment by deploying and retrieving the anchor a minimum of 10 times using a minimum of 50 feet of rode. If a jam occurs during this test sequence, a close investigation is warranted.

It is also important to inspect the windlass for any signs of damage, such as cracks, corrosion, or wear. Any damaged parts should be replaced immediately to prevent further damage or failure of the windlass.

In summary, regular cleaning, lubrication, and inspection for damage are crucial for the proper function and longevity of a manual anchor windlass on a boat. By following these maintenance tips, boat owners can ensure the safety and reliability of their windlass.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Stuck anchor.

One of the most common problems with a manual anchor windlass is a stuck anchor. If the anchor is stuck, it can be difficult to raise it up to the deck of the boat. This can be caused by a number of different issues, including debris that has become lodged in the anchor, a damaged or worn-out pawl, or a malfunctioning brake.

To troubleshoot a stuck anchor, start by checking the pawl and the brake. If either of these components is damaged, it may need to be replaced. Additionally, check the anchor for any debris that may be causing it to become stuck. If there is debris, try to remove it with a long pole or a hook.

Loose Lever

Another common problem with a manual anchor windlass is a loose lever. If the lever is loose, it can be difficult to raise and lower the anchor. This can be caused by a number of different issues, including a damaged or worn-out lever, a malfunctioning pawl, or a loose or damaged pin.

To troubleshoot a loose lever, start by checking the lever itself. If it is damaged or worn-out, it may need to be replaced. Additionally, check the pawl and the pin for any damage or wear. If either of these components is damaged, it may need to be replaced as well.

It is important to regularly inspect and maintain a manual anchor windlass to prevent these common problems from occurring. Regular lubrication, cleaning, and inspection can help keep the windlass in good working order.

Safety Precautions

When using a manual anchor windlass on a boat, it is important to take certain safety precautions to avoid accidents and injuries. Here are some safety tips to keep in mind:

Wear Protective Gear

Before operating the manual windlass, make sure to wear protective gear such as gloves and safety glasses. This will protect your hands from getting pinched or cut and your eyes from flying debris.

Secure the Boat

Ensure that the boat is securely anchored before using the windlass. This will prevent the boat from drifting away while you are pulling up the anchor.

Use Proper Technique

Use proper technique when operating the windlass. Do not use your back to pull the anchor up, as this can cause strain and injury. Instead, use your legs and keep your back straight.

Watch Out for Obstructions

Be aware of any obstructions around the windlass, such as ropes or cables, and make sure to clear them away before operating the windlass.

Maintain the Windlass

Regularly maintain and inspect the windlass to ensure that it is in good working condition. Replace any worn or damaged parts immediately to prevent accidents.

By following these safety precautions, you can ensure that you operate the manual anchor windlass on your boat safely and efficiently.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do i properly maintain a manual anchor windlass on my boat.

Proper maintenance of a manual anchor windlass is crucial for its longevity and performance. It is important to regularly clean and lubricate the windlass to prevent rust and corrosion. Additionally, inspect the gears and pawls for wear and tear, and replace them if necessary. It is also recommended to periodically check the anchor rode for any signs of fraying or damage.

What are the advantages of using a manual anchor windlass on a boat?

A manual anchor windlass is a cost-effective and reliable option for boaters who do not want to rely on electricity or hydraulics. It allows for easy and precise control over the anchor, making it easier to set and retrieve. Additionally, it can be used as a backup in case of power failure or other mechanical issues.

What are some safety considerations when using a manual anchor windlass on a boat?

When using a manual anchor windlass, it is important to always wear gloves to prevent rope burns and to use proper lifting techniques to prevent back strain. Additionally, be cautious of entanglement hazards and ensure that the anchor rode is properly secured to the windlass.

What is the average cost of a manual anchor windlass for a boat?

The cost of a manual anchor windlass can vary depending on the size and type of boat. On average, a basic manual windlass can cost anywhere from $200 to $500, while more advanced models can cost upwards of $1,000.

What are some common issues that can arise when using a manual anchor windlass on a boat?

Common issues with manual anchor windlasses can include jamming, slipping, and wear and tear on the gears and pawls. It is important to regularly inspect and maintain the windlass to prevent these issues.

Are there any specific techniques for using a manual anchor windlass on a boat?

To properly use a manual anchor windlass, it is important to ensure that the anchor rode is properly secured to the windlass and that the windlass is properly lubricated. Additionally, use a slow and steady pace when setting or retrieving the anchor to prevent damage to the windlass or anchor rode.

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Italwinch Manual Windlass for boats 5-12 m, chain 6/8/10 mm

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• Effortless Manual Operation: The Giglio offers a manual horizontal winching experience that allows for simultaneous rotation of the chain pulley and gear, making anchor handling a breeze.
• Durable and Lightweight: Crafted with an anodized aluminum body, this windlass combines durability and lightweight construction. It's built to withstand the rigors of marine use while remaining easy to handle.
• Precision Chain Roller: The chain roller is expertly crafted from chrome bronze, ensuring smooth and reliable chain operation.
• Chain Compatibility: Designed to accommodate chains with thicknesses of 6, 8, and 10 mm, the Giglio is versatile and adaptable to various chain types.
• Suitable for a Range of Vessels: With a recommended vessel length of 5 to 12 meters, this windlass is ideal for a wide range of boats, from smaller craft to mid-sized vessels.

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• Mechanical Anchor Windlass

Lofrans Royal LW 250, Horizontal Manual Anchor Windlass, Rope Drum / Chain Gypsy

DESCRIPTION

The Lofrans Royal LW 250, Horizontal Manual Anchor Windlass works great on smaller (26' - 35') boats that don't have electrical systems for a power anchor windlass. The Royal LW 250 Horizontal Windlass operates manually with an included handle and has separate rope capstan and chain-wheel. The Royal is easy to install and features smooth, double action operation to make anchoring a quick and simple task.

• Power rating: 430 lbs lifting power
• Chain Size and Types: 1/4" (HT), 5/16", 3/8" (HT, BBB, PC)
• Beveled aluminum gears
• Stainless main-shaft
• 1.2:1 gear ratio

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Easily and efficiently anchor your boat with our top-of-the-line windlasses, designed for smooth and reliable operation.

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Lewmar Pro-Series Horizontal 700 Windlass Kit - 12V

Lewmar pro-series horizontal 1000h windlass kit - 12v, lewmar pro-fish 700 horizontal windlass - 12v, lewmar pro-fish 1000 horizontal windlass kit - 12v, lewmar v700 vertical windlass kit - 12v, trac outdoor pontoon 35-g3 electric anchor winch, trac outdoors fisherman 25-g3 electric anchor winch, trac outdoors deckboat 40-g3 electric anchor winch w/autodeploy, trac outdoors angler 30-g3 electric anchor winch w/autodeploy, maxwell rc 8-6 vertical windlass 1/4" chain, 1/2" rope 12v, maxwell hrc 10-8 rope chain horizontal windlass 5/16" chain, 5/8" rope 12v, with capstan, maxwell rc12/10 12v windlass - f/3/8" chain & 3/4" rope.

• TRAC Outdoors

WHAT IS A WINDLASS AND WHAT DOES IT DO?

A windlass is a mechanical device that is used to raise and lower an anchor on a boat. It is a crucial part of any boating experience, especially when it comes to anchoring your vessel safely and efficiently.

HOW DOES A WINDLASS WORK?

The windlass works by using a motor to turn a spindle or drum, which then pulls in or lets out the anchor chain or rope. The motor is typically powered by the boat's battery, and can be operated either manually or with a remote control.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF WINDLASSES AVAILABLE?

There are several different types of windlasses available on the market today, including electric windlasses, hydraulic windlasses, and manual windlasses.

• Electric windlasses are the most popular, as they are easy to use and require little effort to operate.
• Hydraulic windlasses are typically more expensive, but offer a higher level of power and efficiency.
• Manual windlasses are the most basic type, and require physical effort to operate.

When choosing the right windlass for your boat, it is important to consider several factors, including the weight of your boat, the length and weight of your anchor chain or rope, and the type of bottom surface you will be anchoring on. You should also consider the type of windlass you want, whether it be electric, hydraulic, or manual. It is recommended to choose a windlass that is strong enough to handle the weight of your anchor and chain, as well as the weight of your boat. Additionally, consider the type of boating you will be doing and the conditions you may encounter, such as rough seas or strong currents. Consulting with a professional or doing research on windlass options and their capabilities can help in making an informed decision.

WHAT FACTORS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED WHEN CHOOSING A WINDLASS?

There are several factors that should be taken into consideration when choosing a windlass, including the size and weight of your boat, the length and weight of your anchor chain or rope, and the type of bottom surface you will be anchoring on. It is important to choose a windlass that is strong enough to handle the weight of your anchor and chain, as well as the weight of your boat.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF USING A WINDLASS ON MY BOAT?

Using a windlass on your boat offers several benefits, including ease of use, increased safety, and improved anchoring efficiency. With a windlass, you can quickly and easily raise and lower your anchor, without the need for physical exertion. This is especially important in rough seas or strong currents, where a manual windlass can be difficult or even dangerous to use. Additionally, a windlass can help to ensure that your boat is securely anchored, reducing the risk of damage or loss.

HOW DO I MAINTAIN MY WINDLASS?

Maintaining your windlass is crucial to ensure its longevity and continued efficiency. Regular cleaning and lubrication of the motor, spindle, and other moving parts is important to prevent corrosion and damage. Additionally, it is important to regularly inspect the wiring and connections, to ensure that they are secure and free from damage or wear. Finally, it is important to store your windlass properly when not in use, to prevent damage from exposure to the elements.

HOW CAN I TROUBLESHOOT PROBLEMS WITH MY WINDLASS?

If you are experiencing problems with your windlass, there are several things you can do to troubleshoot the issue. First, check the wiring and connections, to ensure that they are properly secured and free from damage or wear. Next, inspect the motor and spindle, to ensure that they are functioning properly and free from corrosion or damage. Finally, if you are still experiencing issues, consult a professional to diagnose and repair the problem.

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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Alarming Trend Shows Minimal-duty Windlasses Becoming More Common on Cruising Sailboats

The boatbuilding trend toward shiny, anemic anchor windlasses needs some careful watching..

There was a time when “built to last” was the bold theme that drove marine manufacturing. Cast bronze cleats, stem fittings, and other simple pieces of hardware commonly outlasted boats and their owners.

Today, however, there is an alarming trend toward obsolescence and carefully engineered adequacy instead of excellence. Accelerated gear deterioration has crept in from the automotive arena into the marine industry. For sailors today, the state of affairs is a lot like the days of clipper ships, when some mercenary owners settled on a 15-year lifespan as the right formula for a grain-carrying ship.

Today, premature obsolescence in recreational sailboats hurts both the builder and the owner. Fashion trends and perceived value can be spun to close the initial sale, but real value is linked to how a boat and its hardware hold up over time. And when it comes to sailboats, there’s an assumption that down the road, there will be some lasting value left. Nothing demonstrates this better than high-quality marine equipment in used-gear chandleries or on deck, working like new.

A robust, rock-solid anchor windlass is the classic example of gear that must stand the test of time. It qualifies as safety gear and is part of the insurance policy for a serious long-distance voyager. Its structure and reliability are counted on in a rough, gale-swept anchorage when being able to handle an oversized anchor and a hefty all-chain rode is a high-stakes game. And when the chips are down, and the primary anchor has fouled itself on a discarded bucket or abandoned scrap of twisted steel, rapid anchor retrieval and fluke clearing can mean the difference between safety and dragging ashore. Indeed, skimping on the windlass aboard a serious cruiser makes little sense.

Conversely, the day sailor, marina hopper, or those who infrequently anchor overnight may need neither heavy-duty ground tackle nor a heavy-duty windlass and its all-chain rode. For these sailors, the shiny chrome mushroom-like foredeck protrusion that in optimum conditions can choke down both rope and chain, may be just fine. But if heavy-duty ground tackle, and day-to-day anchoring are at the heart of your cruising game, the growing trend toward the faux-windlasses is a serious step in the wrong direction. Over the past five years, Practical Sailor has noticed that these minimal duty windlasses have migrated from lunch hook uses on production powerboats to the foredeck of smaller sailboats, and finally to larger sailboats deemed “long-range cruisers.”

In order to get a second opinion on ground tackle handling systems, Practical Sailor Technical Editor Ralph Naranjo took a road trip to visit Cliffe Raymond, the owner of Ideal Windlass, a three-generation family-run marine manufacturer based in East Greenwich, R.I.

In 1936, Ideal began making yacht ground tackle handling gear, and the company continues to follow the same basic design principals. Its gear has evolved, and market pressure has caused the company to add a line of “lightweight” alternatives, but what remains constant is an underlying premise that the structural safety margin of a windlass must be set up to accept the energy associated with the surging mass of a vessel, not just the weight of an anchor and chain.

One marine catalog states that “strain on the windlass should be limited to the weight of the anchor and rode.” Yes, under perfect conditions, a sailboat’s auxiliary is used to break the anchor free, and the job of the windlass is simply to haul up the combined weight of the anchor and a length of chain equal to the depth of the water. Buoyancy even helps ease the windlass’ burden slightly, and a switch to a combination line-and-chain rode can make the “big lift” seem pretty lightweight indeed. However, this best-case scenario has caused many boatbuilders to downsize windlass power and structural ruggedness. Their assumption is: Why put all that extra weight and sheet-trapping bulk up on the foredeck where it will rob performance, increase cost, and clutter up the limited space?

The argument and trend toward light weight, less powerful ground-tackle handling gear sounds great right up until one realizes that windlass use isn’t confined to calm-weather days. In truth, the worse the weather, the more important a windlass becomes, for the pitching mass of a 10- or 15-ton cruising boat will put four-digit strains on an anchor rode.

All anchor windlasses function in a somewhat similar fashion. There’s a power source—whether it be electric, hydraulic, or human-arm strength—that creates energy used to rotate a drum-like structure capable of engaging rope, chain, or a combination thereof. The case or housing transfers the loads imparted by the ground tackle, and it must be attached to the boat via bolts that penetrate the deck and are backed to spread significant loads.

Many manufacturers use a cast-aluminum housing that is secured to the deck with stainless-steel machine bolts, and due to the dissimilar metals and abundance of seawater cascading over the stem, galvanic corrosion can damage these attachment points. Most alloy housings now incorporate sleeved bolt holes that utilize a dielectric plastic to eliminate metal-to-metal contact. Adding a sealant to the bolt also helps to lessen the chance of corrosion.

Windlass design, drive train construction quality, and reliability vary among products. Both vertical and horizontal capstan windlasses need a means of changing moderate torque and high RPM motor spin into high torque and low-speed rope capstan or chain gypsy rotation. The premier approach remains the use of a large gear driven by a small gear, with all rotating parts submerged in an oil bath lubricating the gears and heavy-duty bearings. The housing must be strong enough not to deflect under the full operational range of working loads. Smaller units utilize alloy-cased angle drives that also act as reduction gears. Their continuous load-carrying capability is much less than the rugged drive train shown in the Ideal BHW vertical capstan windlass.

The best drive systems utilize a shaft to engage a rope or chain drum by means of a clutch system. This approach allows the anchor and rode to be dropped quickly via a free-spinning drum rather than slowly deployed with a “power down/power up” drive that’s permanently engaged. The latter is cheaper to make because no clutch is necessary, but an emergency recovery and reset process, done in the middle of a stormy night, can be quite challenging for those with a clutchless windlass.

Electric-powered windlasses normally use 12- or 24-volt DC series wound or permanent magnet motors. The latter can work in forward or reverse by a simple change of polarity. These windlass motors, like starters on diesel engines, have grown smaller and smaller. They do produce more torque per given size than older technology, but the small motors also tend to produce more heat. In the early days of electric windlasses, automotive starter motors were given a longer armature shaft, a ball bearing race to carry thrust loads, and put into service as the prime power source. Their rugged, heavy case, stout commutator, and brush assembly made for a long-term reliable power source, and one that could be rebuilt in any automotive electrical shop around the world. More vulnerable to excess strain and overheating, today’s smaller, higher torque motors are more like fragile thoroughbreds compared to the plowhorse motors of the past.

Power to The Pointy End

Delivering sufficient current is also a big factor in windlass wisdom. Wire gauge is dependent upon the length of the run as well as the demand of the unit, and many electric windlasses will draw 100 amps or more. Breakers that can handle 150 amps make sense, as do such ratings for solenoids that handle the current. This kind of current load may require 0/2 or 0/4 cable being ducted forward to the bow. Such an effort and expense is more palatable if the boat has a bow thruster and these heavy-capacity conductors can do double duty.

An alternative to such an extreme commitment to copper is going to a 24-volt system, which according to Ohm’s law, reduces the current demand by 50 percent and consequently allows for a reduction in wire gauge. It also adds charging complexity and other undesirable constraints. So many look to the third option, placing a battery close to the windlass and sending forward only wires capable of carrying the charging current that the battery will need. Once again, what is saved in copper expenditure is more than made up for in charging complexity and concern over another battery. Most pros continue to recommend that welding size cables are the right answer, and they remind installers to protect this cable with a fuse or circuit breaker that’s close to the battery terminal.

Manual Windlass

The world is not short of savvy old salts who continue to row dinghies and crank up anchors and chain by hand. They recognize that less complexity and more reliability makes sailing more enjoyable. They also see the merit of keeping sailing as a physical rather than button-pushing activity. Manual windlasses are a viable alternative, not just for smaller cruisers. Their longevity and ability to be rebuilt make them a product that can really stand up to the test of time.

Back in the late 1970s, Naranjo swapped an unopened box of B&G wind instruments he never found a pressing need to install for an all-chain anchor rode and a hand-crank Nilsson windlass. Since then, the windlass has been unbolted from his 41-foot Ericson’s foredeck a couple of times to be sanded and painted and its aluminum mounting feet replaced with a solid GRP base.

The oversized reduction gear and large double-clutch plates make chain handling a safe and easy process, and the horizontal pattern allows gravity alone to strip the chain from the gypsy. A simple rotary cranking motion with a 10-inch diameter handle provides enough force to manually retrieve a 45-pound CQR and 3/8-inch BBB chain. The boat’s engine and buoyancy are used to break the anchor free, and when surging loads are transferred to and from the windlass, its extra heavy-duty structure and design have paid off.

Robust solid bronze castings, a substantial main shaft, and large chain gypsy and rope drum diameters are all signs of a well-made and useful piece of gear, regardless of whether it’s manually, electrically, or hydraulically powered. For new boat buyers whose cruising plans include a good night’s sleep in strange new anchorages, it pays to confirm that your boat’s chosen windlass was selected for ruggedness and reliability, not for its pretty looks, sleek profile, and cost effectiveness.

• Windlass Details
• Brushing Up on Windlass Repair
• A Cosmetic Makeover for a Well-used Windlass

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21 comments.

Power to the Pointy End: I’ve installed a small Lithium battery designed as an engine starter in the bow. It recharges slowly (think 4h) over small wires, puts out plenty of amps when needed (rated 10x required by windlass), and I could get rid of the long (by now somewhat corroded) thick wires to the bow. It’s served me well for the last 4 years. There’s enough juice for at least 4 lifts to the anchor, so re-anchoring when holding isn’t what I’d like it fine (and I have a second one to hook up if necessary). Happy with the setup.

Very true! But . . . one must not overlook the security of the mount. I learned this the hard way. Situation: anchored off a reef mid Pacific at Palmerston Island. Wind shift at night and resultant lee shore. Swell became three to four feet. Anchor stuck in coral or rock. Trying to raise anchor, swell caused attendant violent jerking on the chain pulling gypsy through fiber glass mount. All chain went overboard but still secured to bow. Help from islanders; retrieved chain and anchor and we headed for US Samoa. There we obtained a plate of aluminum stair material and reinstalled gypsy with the metal as a full width backing plate. Re-fibre glassed the area which was virtually destroyed. Vessel: Beneteau 440.

I totally agree with everything stated in this article. For 7 years sailing around the world in our FREYA 39, our Maxwell 3500 with reversing solenoid was incredible and once, in Tonga, brought up A huge rock when anchored in 90 feet! That windlass has never failed! It is now well over 30 years old and still running perfectly. I don’t know how well made brand new ones are, but that fantastic oversized( for a 39 foot sloop) windlass has always been a major safety for our world cruising and also in the shallow Bahamian waters!! And we never anchored downwind of a boat that had what we called ‘a hockey puck’ windlass!!!! Great article and so true. Thank you.

Eight years ago I installed a bronze ABI double action manual windlass on my Cape Dory 36 Far Reach. I found the windlass used for $400. Simple to disassemble and reassemble. It has had a real work out in some deep Caribbean anchorages but never failed to do its job. I can’t imagine ever replacing it with an electric windlass.

This article drips with the many, many years of experience of Ralph Naranjo, Safety at Sea moderator for numerous CCA Bermuda race training seminars. Toward the end, it appears to have been rewritten at bit. Having had an Ideal for almost 40 years aboard a 15 ton Mason 43, we had first hand experience with Cliffe when he did an excellent rebuild for us ten years ago. Not sure of the status of the venerable machine shop in East Greenwich:

Schaefer Marine acquires Ideal Windlass company Schaefer expands product offerings and enters powered products market.

By Cruising World Staff December 20, 2016

Garry Schneider

Our Simpson-Lawrence 555 manual windlass has served our boat well for 46 years and has only required a new gypsy in that time. Hopefully it will last the life of the boat.

Similar, SL400, on my boat for 47 years, 24V, 60lb CQR, 10mm chain. I have stripped it, replaced bearings, had the body repainted. Still going great. I now own a Knox 18kg anchor, better and lighter.

I would amend this article to say that MOST recreational windlasses were not designed to withstand the forces of backing down and breaking out an anchor. It is true that Ideal makes some very beefy, very heavily constructed units that could stand up better–and some manual units are probably more robust–but this is a trade off of what you are willing to carry on your bow to avoid the technique of using a chain stopper or snubber to break out and back down. My view is that I value the balance and sailing characteristics of my boat and am quite willing to make a trip forward to sent the stopper or snubber for breakout and backdown–and that is a safer, better option. Frankly, there are limits to the bearings of all mechanical units and the forces of breakout and backdown can be extreme. I recognize that Practical Sailor makes its living by making comments on products, not nautical skill, but my experience (I am a USCG Master with at least the experience of the author) is that most of the time, it is a matter of competent seamanship to use a snubber or chain stopper rather than to test the limits of your gear. Sometimes it is much safer and more important to have and use competent nautical skills than to think that if you carry an anchor a size or two larger than is required, or some product labelled “next generation” or “heavy duty”that it will deliver you magically from a poor choice of anchoring spots or save you from making the tough decision to go to sea or move before the conditions make the outcome questionable and put your gear beyond its capability. There are many instances where novice cruisers have blamed the limitations for their gear when it is their own lack of action and anticipation that brought them to grief. Recently, in a Central American roadstead, a number of yachts were blown ashore; several of them waited too long to leave because they thought their larger “next generation” anchors would hold. In a sense, they were right. When surf conditions became untenable they could not get their anchors up in the pitching seas and had no option but to wait until some part of the gear failed. Gear cannot compensate for poor seamanship. And thinking some gear could do this is very very dangerous if you are really going cruising. Fortunately, most of this is about bragging rights at the dock as few boats are really going out there. But if you are really going cruising, think about it.

Pete the Cat has said it right. In cruising for 15+ years in Central America, I have seen boats on the beach from not anticipating conditions, or over-relying on gear. One quite new vessel’s “gear” held up ok, but the entire foredeck had ripped loose at not being able to hold against the sea conditions; boat was sitting on the sand. A full width 1/16th to 1/8″ ss plate, and large washers, under plywood reinforced deck would not be overkill, and is usually not difficult to retrofit. One easy guideline is never anchor in depth that can permit you to be in the break. Barring a hurricane or tsunami, 30ft plus is usually OK (Boat , not the anchor, meaning your swing must be outside 30). Of course there are many other considerations, but that is an easy one, and remember winds and currents change, sometimes quickly, so your position must consider 360d at full extent of swing.

I will second the dislike for the ever increasing trend of planned obsolescence and misplaced priority for amenities and speed over simple and reliable.

My only disagreement with the above is for the article’s preference for “free fall” rather than “power down” of the anchor. My long-held understanding is that throwing the anchor off the bow, which you are doing by “free falling” it, can result in a fouled anchor and chain most likely requiring a second attempt. With my boat’s rather fast Maxwell HWC 1500 windlass the “power down” technique never results in fouled anchor.

Thats not what happens when gravity is used as the energy source to lower the anchor. So called free fall is a controlled lowering operation, using the clutch to adjust speed and control pay out as the vessel drifts back. Sure, if the clutch is fully released a d the chain allowed to free fall, then the pile up will happen. Only an ignominious or lazy person would do that.

This is all good theory, but the article stops short of listing what windlasses are up to the task of full time cruising and which ones are lunch hook retrievers.

Just finished installing a Lewmar V1, replacing a 23 year old Simpson Lawrence Spirit 1000. Though not a perfect swap, given it’s genealogy, it was a pretty good bet it would be a good replacement fit.

The Lewmar certainly checks off many of tge boxes as far as being built ruggedly b it has a cast stainless housing and a much improved under-deck motor.

I was somewhat disappointed tgat the one size fits all deck gasket didn’t really gasket much of the underside, leaving gaps at the thru-deck hawse hole. Also, the casting had significant planned dead air space under tge housing. I prefer a solid deck-to-gasket-to-windlass installation so I filled the underside of the blank space in the housing with epoxy, thereby increasing the surface contact area at least five-fold.

Finally,I was surprised the standard windlass did not come with a manual recovery. It was a $300 upgrade but in my opinion, required. I will always be reminded of learning the hard way thither the former SL windlass throwing out my back hauling up the 45 pound CQR and all chain in the Canadian Gulf Islands last summer when the windlass gave up the ghost. Sure I knew I was risking it by not addressing the matter of manual recovery before I needed but thought I had one more season to find the obsolete gypsy on e-bay. It is a matter of safety!

I suppose my thoughts are the manual recovery option was probably a $10 add on charge to the manufacturer but a $300 charge to me. Same with the gasket properly designed for this specific windlass and the epoxy back-filling.

I learned the hard way that everything needs to be done correctly and in working order to fully rely on the windlass when one needs to.

This article spoke to me on several levels. We sail a Hans Christian, an older boat but so heavily built that we seldom worry about our numerous heavily constructed custom bronze fittings failing. Our Ideal windlass is now 25 years old and has easily handled our 70lb Paul Luke Fisherman Storm anchor in gale force conditions in Scotland. Thank you for the article.

Manual anchor winches. I read with great interest the article on modern electric anchor winches, and the transition from heavy reliable hand operated to lightweight electric short life winches. One alternative is to use a simple deck mounted hand operated windlass and drive it with a new product on the market from Australia Powerwincher “. It is designed to operate any winch drum on your vessel that a standard winch is required. This works a treat on an anchor winch as well. Check it out Powerwincher.com.au

So… what are the crappy ones? Please?

Manufacturers of recreational boats have learned that few boats are used more than a few hours per month. Therefore, they deduce, the duty cycle that the boats experience is extremely light and does not warrant a build that can withstand heavy loads as it is highly unlikely that it will ever be experienced by the boat/owner. Their logic makes sense until the ‘doo-doo’ hits the fan.

The article should be essential reading for anyone considering blue water sailing and or commissioning a new yacht.

We sail a 38′ x 7t (extended cruising weight) catamaran and sail to Tasmania (in the Roaring Forties). We spend 3 months sailing down to, spending time on the SW coast then returning. We carried 8mm chain but opted to 6mm high tensile which then demanded a new gypsy. The 6mm chain took weight out of the bow and allowed more chain (75m instead of 50m). New gypsies are extortionate and rather than simply buy a new windlass we retired the original, the 20 year old windlass and replaced it with Maxwell RC6-8 with 1000 watt motor. Its effectively a windlass designed for a yacht that would normally carry 8mm chain (so the 8mm grunt) – but with a 6mm gypsy.

We have not regretted any of the changes we made. The 6mm chain is a joy to work with (we also use 15m of 6mm on our spare rode), the Maxwell windlass has been superb (they are the only company in the marine industry we know who offer a 365/24 hour customer service (at least in Australia0.

We do use extended Snubbers, a pair making a bridle.

We firmly believe that the ground tackle needs to be considered as a matched choice, windlass, power source, wiring, chain specification, shackles, anchors – too often each decision is made independent of the rest of the kit – it all needs to be chosen for fit and be of the same strength.

Not much use in buying G40 chain with toy shackles, underpowered windlass and no snubber.

THE DEATH OF MY LAST WINDLASS (see comments above)

A well trusted and very respected local boat yard manager once explained to me that he believed that most windlass motors are overstressed based on how they are installed and how they are used. He said that based on the services his yard performs on windlasses and the need for unplanned replacements, the electrical system will last MUCH LONGER if one doesn’t over stress it. Then he went on to show me exactly how recommends use of the windlass in both the power up and power down modes. He said the secret is to let it repeatedly cool down during set and recovery given the high amperage and resultant potential for heat-the enemy of an electrical system. His basic rule of thumb is to depress the power button and count to 5, then let off the button and count to 5 again, repeating until enough is payed out or until it is recovered and stowed. “Give it 10 second use-rest-use intervals and it will last even longer.” He asked “What’s the rush? Are we really in that much of a hurry to burn up our windlass? You wouldn’t run your car starter for two minutes straight if the engine wouldn’t start, would you? If not, why do the same to your windlass?”

Turns out he was right and we learned the hard way. Though we had been using the technique for years without an issue, one night in a crowded, windy anchorage, at dusk, my wife thought she say a charter trawler upwind from us dragging. Before we knew it, it had slammed into the bow of our friend’s Passport 42 (causing significant damage) and bounced off in our direction. In the ensuing argument, my wife said, “pull the anchor FAST, he is now headed towards us!” As she started the engine, and laid on the horn, I rushed forward in the dark and hauled the anchor as fast as possible, never once letting it rest. With the other guy still oblivious that he was in fact dragging and headed right for us, we got the anchor up but the ordeal apparently destroyed our windlass in the process. Our only option was to head in shallow (in the rocks) and as he passed he yelled at us about dragging “up” on him. Given our boat and our friends were both downwind in a 25 knot breeze in a closed in bay (no current) “dragging up” was an impossibility. The upshot is he took off without claiming responsibility but his charter company had AIS on him and not only did we have photos, we had dozens of witnesses.

We reset and lifted it the next day only for it to stall out as the anchor came over the roller. We crossed our fingers, reset it the next night and again, it stalled coming over the roller and that was the end of it, one more set and it was dead on the bottom.

In the necropsy of the dead windlass, I found that the last three feet of wiring was Romex 12 gauge and the deck gasket had been compromised, allowing drips directly in and around the protective rubber boot of the windlass. My own repeated ignorance of my own set-up not withstanding, I have no doubt that the full power-up of all chain and a 45 pound CQR without a rest was the death knell of our 23 year old windlass. In our case, a well serviced engine, an aware crew and a windlass that was ready to die to get us and our boat out of harm’s way was well worth the trouble of having to replace the windlass. The upshot is that the friend on the Passport has the same Spirit 1000 and took the dead one off our hands to part out into his own spare parts store.

I find it interesting that no-one complains when their dyneema halyard cover wears out or their chartplotter/GPS becomes so dated that the owner feels the need to replace – and then complains that their windlass fails. Windlass last for a couple of decades (or – with some care – I bit longer). They are very simple devices but the majority of owners, maybe not those that read PS, consider their windlass as a consumable. Wander round a marina, ask most owners when the they last serviced their windlass…… “windlass, servicing??”. Windlass manufacturers recommend an annual service, check the gear box oil, clean and grease the shaft – is it really that difficult? If you do service annually then the corrosion problem between aluminium and steel is easily over come as though the windlass when installed and commissioned by the ‘boatyard’ ignored the issue – you will have used something to protect the 2 metals – grease, Duralac.

There are other problems, was the windlass installed such that the chain did not impinge on the motor. Was the mild steel casing of the motor protected from the salt water environment, most anchor/chain lockers are simply the space left over when the accommodation was squeezed in – hardly the place to expect simple unprotected electrical wiring to thrive.

Treat the windlass as you would your partner – it will offer dependable service in return. If the locker holding your windlass is not conducive to corrosion – you will also be protecting your chain…… A damp or even wet locker will corrode anything,

I do agree – windlass are chosen at the minimalist end of the performance graph – upsizing is very sensible and costs little, extra, in the grand scheme of things. Protecting the components are simple, if time consuming; servicing is a task to be completed, annually, one afternoon – when the sun has lost its intensity

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> > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 10-05-2015, 11:53   Boat: Vancouver 28 came with a non-working . I can't determine the model number. Are their for these things? Hate to throw out something if it can be fixed and I like the idea (for now) of a . Any recommendations for a good replacement (manual)? Thanks, J.M. s/v Adventurous 10-05-2015, 12:13   Boat: Rival 36 I have some PDF , which I can send you if you send me a personal message with contact . Good luck. Martin 10-05-2015, 12:14   Boat: Rafiki 37 for this old workhorse. I've never actually had to anything through this site, but it was recommended to me by other Seatiger owners. 10-05-2015, 12:29   Boat: Sabre 28-2 , lubing, etc. I have one on my and it works quite well with a little TLC. 11-05-2015, 02:15   Boat: Vancouver 28 is the Seatiger 555, but I'll need to confirm that when I back down to the boat in a day or so. I was able to download the instruction manual and diagram from the website you gave me. I'll wait on the actual manual until I verify the model. Then I'll just have to take it off the boat and get it on the bench to figure out what's wrong with it. Cheers, J.M. s/v Adventurous 11-05-2015, 05:32   Boat: Sabre 28-2 and re-lube should do the trick! 11-05-2015, 08:10   Boat: Beneteau Oceanis 36CC, now sold and probably 20 years ago we had a manual S-L . It was so slow to raise chain we never used it and pulled it up by hand. The windlass didn't like being ignored and seized up in protest. When we replaced it with a Cayman one (and went to a bigger and more chain, one size up too) we began to enjoy again as we could now do so much more easily and quickly and when the usual idiot arrived too close we could choose to move elsewhere ourselves if we wanted instead of just stay put and hope. INvest in a newelectri windlass is my , if the manual ones are so good you should easily find buyer for yours on ebay 11-05-2015, 08:20   Boat: 1988 Heritage East Sundeck 36' . He e are some potential addresses for assistance with parts, slspares.co.uk , Jim O'Dell M/V Mello Moon Titusville, 321-266-3490 11-05-2015, 08:29   Boat: Island Packet 35 , but it wont die. Keep it full of , and pull off the (turn the opposite way to spin off and pull apart) and clean grease the same as you do your regular winches are about all it needs. We have never had to break open the case to get into the chain or sprokets... Case is well sealed, so problems are normally with caked or operator error on how the clutch works. First order is to always pull the clutch. Put the bar in the clutch and loosen it. Remove it and pull it carefully off. Clean it all out and regrease. If the turns with the clutch off, the internals are good. Put it all back together and go. 11-05-2015, 08:37   Boat: 1988 Heritage East Sundeck 36' from working with my first one that the factory installed a large packet of silica gel under the bottom cover that only served to hold moisture inside. Removing that, cleaning out the old solidified grease & re-lubing with Shell Alvania Grease WR or Lubriplate 130-AA should yield good results baring any existing damage. P.S. I might be talked into selling mine since it is a spare. Jim O'Dell M/V Mello Moon Titusville, Fl. 321-266-3490 11-05-2015, 08:50   Boat: Pacific Seacraft Dana 24 , and pull off the clutch (turn the opposite way to spin off and pull apart) and clean grease the same as you do your regular winches are about all it needs. We have never had to break open the case to get into the chain or sprokets... Case is well sealed, so problems are normally with caked clutch or operator error on how the clutch works. First order is to always pull the clutch. Put the bar in the clutch and loosen it. Remove it and pull it carefully off. Clean it all out and regrease. If the winch turns with the clutch off, the internals are good. Put it all back together and go. 11-05-2015, 09:03   Boat: William Atkin Cutter for sure but designed to last by , , rare today. Of course I am the kind who likes the option of a hand crank , and a Taylor's cooker, and oil lamps in . Back about six years ago I bought a new one, the last one on the shelf, from . At that time they also had parts an did rebuilds on the 555. My 555 replaced the original 555 installed back in the 70's by the first owner of the boat. I gave it to a friend as it was hanging up as the direction changed on the lever. It was inconsistent. He took it apart, changed the springs, lubed it and it is working perfect now. Good luck. 11-05-2015, 09:11   electric. It was very lightly used but we are now seniors and electric seemed right for us. We can offer it at a great . Let us know if this interests you. Barb and Jack Moore 11-05-2015, 11:34   Boat: Rafiki 37 ABI/Plath manual windlass. The seatiger appears more robust, and it has two speeds, but the Plath keeps working flawlessly so I haven't swapped it out yet. We virtually all the time, and never have had the need to haul up by hand (except once when I snapped the handle off pretty easy to make. I enjoy the morning ritual of cranking while sipping my second or third cup of coffee 11-05-2015, 11:40   Boat: 1988 Heritage East Sundeck 36' , , , , Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Want To Buy: Aleks Classifieds Archive 0 25-05-2013 19:20 captain465 Anchoring & Mooring 4 19-07-2011 22:18 Velocir Anchoring & Mooring 2 14-04-2011 06:13 For Sale: captnrog Classifieds Archive 13 18-10-2010 07:12 blahman Classifieds Archive 3 30-11-2009 10:18 - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media Media New media New comments Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe Manual Windlass Thread starter Bob S Start date Oct 2, 2009 Forums for All Owners Ask All Sailors Stu Jackson I tried, I tried On boats I've owned without windlasses I have rigged a short line with chain hook, like you'd use on an all chain rode for a snubber. I explained this almost exactly to hermit in the link posted earlier.   Hermit Scott Stu-I just want to see different options to find out what will work best for me. I did read your post though and I appriciate it. I will make a snubber and hook it up to the cleat in the bow locker.   Hermit Scott said: -I just want to see different options to find out what will work best for me. ...and hook it up to the cleat in the bow locker. Click to expand Stu Jackson said: Thanks, hermit. A cleat IN the bow locker makes little sense, and could be dangerous with the door dropping on your arm. That's why they put cleats ON the deck. Usually the cleat inside the locker is only used to tie off the bitter end of the rode. In case you may have missed it, we've all been telling you to use something ON deck to snub: cleat, chain hook on a line, manual windlass - you name it. Where did anyone ever suggest using something IN the locker? Where in all the books or links or responses did anyone show you using something inside ? It would really help if you took a few pictures of what you have up at your bow, and posted them for us to help you better. Regarding that "hump" in the cover of MS's anchor locker, it comes with the boat. In fact, if you'd look at other boats, you'll find that most of the newer ones have that feature. It's useless for anything other than having the chain lead from the anchor shank into the locker. In almost every case you need to open the door to assure a fairlead of rode when deploying and for coiling up the rode when retrieving. Your older C30 may not have that feature. I have a dockmate with an '81 C30 and I don't recall whether or not he has that "hump" opening, but his anchor's shank goes way past the forward end of his anchor locker when it is sitting in his bow roller. What you'll need to do is determine how you want to arrange your anchor ocker door and your ground tackle. That's why a picture would help us immeasurably. Click to expand dreamsailing Great info. Many good points in all this. I do have an issue with the fore deck picture. Was the boat at anchor and if so chaffing would seem a major problem.   dreamsailing said: Many good points in all this. I do have an issue with the fore deck picture. Was the boat at anchor and if so chaffing would seem a major problem. Click to expand Ken Tempelmeyer Bob S said: Anyone have experience with manual windlasses? I believe one draw back is that they are slow but they are less expensive and easier to install. Just a thought. Any opinions would be welcome. Also, any advise on marking braided anchor line? I bought the anchor rode markers from SBO and ended up using them for my back up anchor with a 3 strand nylon rode. My primary anchor uses double braided nylon and I tried using white electrical tape every 30' but it didn't stand up to well. Thanks Bob Click to expand Use only in "special" condidtions? We use our Simpson Laurance 2-speed manual windless every time we weigh anchor, from start to finish. It's faster than the electric ones we've seen on high speed, and very powerful on low speed. I don't know if it comes that way, but our gypsy will take any size chain and rope. It has a kind of 4-way taper and you can even mix different size chains with no problem. By hand? I don't think so with a 65 lb. anchor and 130 ft. of heavy chain, hooked to a 24,000 lb boat. Maybe with a little boat... I much prefer a manual one over electric. A lot simplier and uses no battery power.   Manual vs Electric Windless I’ve had my 37’ for 28 years. I first started with 5/8” 3 strand with 12’ chain. After 20 years of using plastic markers and grunt power to lift the 33lb Bruce I opted for an electric windless over a manual because we typically anchor in 30’ – 40’ depths with the rare 100’ evening anchorage. Pro, the electric provides a quick lift from deep water. The electric saved my aging shoulders. The electric allows my wife to quickly raise me up the mast using snatch blocks and a slightly longer halyard. Con, the motor quit once. This required a line with a rolling hitch on the chain run back to the primary winch as an alternate lift. This took a good 10 minutes in calm weather. A deck mounted chain stop saves having two lines run to the primary for this operation. When I had my chain re-plated recently the proprietor suggested marking the chain with colored nylon ties. I expected the ties to last one turn around the gypsy, but after 2 years they are, amazingly, still holding. Just to be safe I also marked them with stainless ties. Given galvanic corrosion, I am unsure if this was a good idea. For breaking an anchor from the bottom, remember: No anchor will hold with a 1:1 scope. Bringing the anchor chain/rode vertical and waiting a minute with tension on will generally allow the auxiliary motor to gently break the anchor free.   Much of what you need as a windless comes from the type of area you sail and what your ground tackle is made up of. For us, I wouldnt think of using a manual unit, as I store two lockers with 400 feet of 5/16 ht. in each or a total of 800 feet of chain. the rocks of the north-west or coral reefs of the south pacific play hell with anything but chain. and I have droped anchor in 130 feet of water in the inland passage.. Also, contrary to popular belief, an electric windless is not designed to break an anchor lose from the bottom, and its the best way to burn one up. An electric unit is designed for "dead pull" and not for surge and uasally measured in weight... Ours has a dead pull of 1200 lbs. What I like best about our electric windless is it can be operated from the cockpit   Barry Needalman One way to mark chain is with plastic ties straps. Put the strap through a link, pull it tight, cut it short. Keep the lock bit on the outside of the link. Nylon ties are strong enought and flat enough to withstand the windless.   jimford2158 My plow anchor weighs about 40? pounds plus the chain and has an eyelet on it that I would assume is so a line can be tied to it and probably a float, so that the anchor could be pulled straight up if it was stuck. The bow would have to be approximately over the anchor for this to work. Does this sound correct, as I am just guessing? I only have a manual windlass but it is froze and is very difficult to turn. I have added penetrant but it is still hard to turn at this time. I was informed as to using the winch for hauling anchor but wasn't sure if that was a good idea. Thank you for the great info.   This kinda continues at "hermit's hump" http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=112740   Seems like the missing factor is where and what kind of sailing you will do. Summers in NE or most anywhere where you probably won't go out in bad weather or stay on the hook would allow most of the ideas mentioned as options. If you plan major cruising it would be likely you will have heavier anchors and more chain. You also will be anchoring in situations where things get diceyer. Requiring anchor watches and retrieving draging anchors with high winds and waves etc. When I bought my boat the previous owner(who solo circumnavigated twice in this boat) and my sailing mentor both recommended I replace the manuel SL with a power windless. I didn't and my fears of being caught alone on a lee shore as the winds shifted were a part of my returning to New England from the Med. I had pulled myself off twice with a dragging anchor with my Manuel but if conditions had been slightly worse I would have been in trouble. Trouble that might have been mitigated by a power windless and a remote control. Sorry to ramble so long. Good luck on your decision. Pax Steve SV Gandalf   gettinthere we have the S-L 555 tiger manual windlass. I thought for sure I would replace it, first thing, when we bought the boat. Tried it out and it is pretty easy. I have a 45lb Manson Supreme and 200' of 5/16" HT chain. I've handled 100' out on many occasions and it's not bad at all. I'm mid 50's and not exactly a gorilla.   Brian la Bute I use black UV resistant zip ties at 30' intervals to mark my chain and rode: 1 zip, 2 zip, 3 zip, repeat - works for me I can see them, feel them and even hear them when they go over the chain gypsy. I use a lewmar 700 proseries.   Easy Way To Mark Rode I've had difficulty in keeping those tape markers on the rode as the windlass would rip them off and at night they were hard to read, so when I got my new rode, I used paint. I laid out the rode on the dock in lengths of 50' going back and forth. I then measured out 25' and put a towel under it and marked the rode with the following schema: one strip for each 25' up to four strips, then changed color and started over again (each color was 100'). So the first 25' was one black strip, 50' was two black strips, 75' was three black strips, 125' was one yellow strip....275' was 3 red strips. easy to remember....black...starting out, yellow means I'm in the middle and red means I'm near the end. The paint is still on after 4 years of use. Materials was just 3 cans of spray paint from Home Depot and it took no time at all.   This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more… 219 IMAGES Lofrans Manual Windlass Demonstration Lofrans Manual Windlass on an Ericson 32 3 Sailboat Manual windlass Lofrans Royal Manual Windlass Proper Windlass Selection and Installation Tips 2-speed bronze anchor windlass WILMEX VIDEO Warranty: 30 Days THE MOST REQUESTED ITEM FOR OUR BOAT EP36 Upgrading Our Boat's Windlass System #sailboat #shortsvideo 1992 PDQ Capella for sale in Long Island, NY, US Changing brake liner of windlass. It holds 8 tonne !!! Anchor ⚓️⚓️⚓️⚓️ COMMENTS choice of manual windlass Both come with benefits and liabilities. I think all manual windlasses are horizontal models, although some vertical electrics can be operated manually (at least in theory ). Agree with Sanders about all-chain if you're going with a windlass. Just operates easier, regardless of it being electric or manual. Lofrans Royal Horizontal Manual Windlass Lofrans Royal Horizontal Manual Windlass - a simple and inexpensive way to add better anchor handling to any boat. Double-action operation makes bringing in the anchor rode a quick and easy job. Features: Manually operated (by included handle) windlass with separate rope capstan and chainwheel; Finished in polished anodized coating for added ... Lofrans Royal Manual Windlass Manual rope/chain windlass for boats from 26'- 39'. For some smaller vessels without sufficient electrical systems, a manual windlass makes sense. Royal is easy to install and features a smooth, double-action operation that makes anchoring a quick and simple task. Gipsy for chain: Ø 6-7-8-10 mm (1/4"-5/16"-3/8") Maximum pull: kg 200 ... Manual Anchor Windlass On A Boat: How To Operate It is operated by hand, using a crank or handle, and is typically located on the foredeck of the boat. The manual windlass is a simple and reliable piece of equipment that has been used for centuries by sailors around the world. The basic operation of a manual anchor windlass is relatively straightforward. Lofrans Manual Windlass Shop Windlasses Silent Auction Enter Raffle Fishing Tracker Father's Day 2024 Consignments > Lofrans Manual Windlass Lofrans Manual Windlass SKU: JO8412-001. $495.00. $495.00. Unavailable per item !!! ATTENTION: PLEASE EMAIL, CALL OR SUBMIT A REQUEST TO BUY TO PURCHASE OR FOR MORE INFORMATION BEFORE CHECKING OUT ONLINE. ... Boat heaven. Lots of ... Selecting an Anchor Windlass That is, a 33' boat with a 22lb. Delta anchor, 200' of 1/2" rope with 15' of 1/4" chain and a shackle (about 40lb.), with a total ground tackle weight of 62lb., would select a windlass with at least 248lb. of pull (62lb. of ground tackle, times four). If ground tackle is too heavy or close to the windlass's maximum pulling power, or if the ... Lofrans Manual Windlass on an Ericson 32 3 Sailboat Demonstration of the Lofrans Royal Horizontal Manual windlass mounted on the foredeck of an Ericson 32-3 sailboat. Installation was modified by using a two ... Italwinch Manual Windlass for boats 5-12 m, chain 6/8/10 mm Introducing the Italwinch Giglio Manual Anchor Windlass, the perfect solution for boats ranging from 5 to 12 meters in length. Effortless Manual Operation: The Giglio offers a manual horizontal winching experience that allows for simultaneous rotation of the chain pulley and gear, making anchor handling a breeze. Royal LW 250, Horizontal Manual Anchor Windlass, Rope / Chain DESCRIPTION. The Lofrans Royal LW 250, Horizontal Manual Anchor Windlass works great on smaller (26' - 35') boats that don't have electrical systems for a power anchor windlass. The Royal LW 250 Horizontal Windlass operates manually with an included handle and has separate rope capstan and chain-wheel. The Royal is easy to install and features ... Windlass With a windlass, you can quickly and easily raise and lower your anchor, without the need for physical exertion. This is especially important in rough seas or strong currents, where a manual windlass can be difficult or even dangerous to use. Additionally, a windlass can help to ensure that your boat is securely anchored, reducing the risk of ... Lofrans Manual Windlass Demonstration Operating the Lofrans Royal manual windlass on a Pearson Triton sailboat. Please excuse the poor audio quality. My editing skills weren't up to dubbing over ... The best manual windlass question Join Date: Sep 2020. Location: Mount Vernon, WA. Boat: Alajuela Crealock 37. Posts: 80. The best manual windlass question. So... ANYONE who has spent time with a manual windlass I got a question. Lets say that 5:1 scope gives you ~200 feet of rode in 40' of water. Lets say you have all chain 5/16". Boat Anchor Windlasses & Winches Durability and Reliability: Marine-grade windlasses should be built to withstand harsh conditions and a lot of use. Manual anchor windlass: A manual anchor winch is a less expensive alternative for smaller boats or those with limited battery capacity. A manual windlass anchor winch makes it easier to haul in the anchor than doing it by hand. 5 Best Anchor Windlass 4. Five Oceans Horizontal Anchor Windlass. Thanks to its pretty powerful 600W motor, this windlass can reach a maximum pulling power of 1200 lbs and a maximum line speed of 115 feet per minute. You can use this item with a range of rope types, namely three-strands, double - braided and eight-plate ones. Manual Windlass Jun 27, 2006. 107. Catalina 30 MKII ROOSEVELT AZ. Oct 2, 2009. #2. Simpson Windlass. Bob, I have a Simpson manual windlass on my Catalina 30 and am quite pleased with it. I have a 22lb Delta anchor on 45 ft of 5/16 chain. Manual windlass 7,134. CC 30 South Florida. May 19, 2016. #2. Did a quick search in a couple of chandleries and could not find a manual windlass. Checked some of the used components markets and the manual units for sale were old and probably lacking in replacement parts. To find a manual windlass you may have to look to European manufacturers. How to Install an Anchor Windlass Horizontal models are good for boats with small or unusually shaped chain lockers, usually needing a minimum fall of only 12". Very large yacht windlasses and most manual windlasses are also horizontal. Side-to-side alignment of horizontal windlasses is critical since they cannot accept rodes leading from off-center angles. Backing Plates Manual Windlass any suggestions on acquiring a manual windlass? Menu Menu. Search. Search titles only. By: Search Advanced search. Search titles only ... Mid-Size Boats. Status Not open for further replies. D. Doug Washburn. Jul 3, 2001 #1 my back has about had it with pulling the hook. any suggestions on acquiring a manual windlass? ... Alarming Trend Shows Minimal-duty Windlasses ... Our Simpson-Lawrence 555 manual windlass has served our boat well for 46 years and has only required a new gypsy in that time. Hopefully it will last the life of the boat. Log in to leave a comment. Alastair March 12, 2023 At 6:23 pm. Similar, SL400, on my boat for 47 years, 24V, 60lb CQR, 10mm chain. ... Simpson Lawrence Manual Windlass Join Date: Jul 2011. Location: Atlantic ICW 29N/81W. Boat: Beneteau Oceanis 36CC, now sold. Posts: 823. Re: Simpson Lawrence Manual Windlass. two boats and probably 20 years ago we had a manual S-L windlass. It was so slow to raise chain we never used it and pulled it up by hand. The windlass didn't like being ignored and seized up in protest. Experiences on manual anchor windlass (and using the bow anchor) Together with the manual anchor windlass and 40 meters of chain, it adds quite a lot weight on the bow, which is not necessarily a very good thing in terms of sailing performance. However, in my view the benefits from an easy-to-use anchoring gear outweigh the marginal losses in the boat speed - especially if talking about pure cruising boats. Manual Windlass I installed a manual windlass on my Hunter 33.5 several years ago. I was told by the boat yard that I would probably replace it with an electric windlass in a short time because it would be easier to use at my age. I have never had any desire to replace it. It is easy to use and doesn't require great strength. How to: The Right Electric Windlass for Your Boat Gypsy. A small but very important part of choosing the right windlass is to ensure it will work with your anchor rode. The rotating part of the windlass is known as the gypsy and will be designed for an exact chain size. Many are capable of automatically handling a rope-chain rode. catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht