sailboat winch definition

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Sailing Winch Secrets: How To Use a Winch

A winch can rip off your finger or save your back.  If you know what you're doing, nothing beats this modern convenience for hauling in a sail in heavy breeze.

One of the most conspicuous features of a modern sailboat is the high chrome shine of the winches. Your eye is drawn to their steely glow while your inner voice tells you that these things mean danger.

They really are one of the most dangerous pieces of equipment on a sailboat, but also one of the most utilitarian tools a boat may have. By following a few precautions and always keeping your bearings about you, you can use this tool for all sorts of functions and still keep all your fingers attached at the socket.

Table of contents

The Traditional Function Of A Winch

When I signed up for the sailing team at the US Coast Guard Academy, the coach walked in and asked who in the room had ever used a winch before? The quizzical looks on many of the  young swab faces must have  told him that he had very few real sailors in the newly minted class of 1994, and he explained, “You know that thing that looks like a coffee grinder that you wind around with a handle?”

Several faces lit up with that explanation and he immediately tapped those in the know for the big boat team. The rest of the young swabs would be sent to the dinghy team, while the select few would be elevated to relative stardom by joining on the crew to race the big boats in the weekend club series at area yacht clubs.

By being selected for the big boat team,  we would be allowed to leave the base most weekends of the fall and play with civilians at yacht club parties who would fawn over the fact that academy cadets were at THEIR party. That was my favorite function of the winch at that point, to get me into parties, but not really how a winch is supposed to be used.

Winches are however just as the coach described them. They look like big coffee grinders and you spin them around with a winch handle. They come in lots of sizes, but all pretty much have the same shape and function - to haul in the jib sheets to trim the jib on the upwind leg.

I have seen little brass ones no bigger than a cat food can on old sailboats from the 60s and I have seen huge drum sized winches on yachts that would make you puke with envy. Regardless of their size however, they all do pretty much the same thing - pull in the jib sheets.

How To Use A Winch

Winch operation is pretty simple too - after all, it is a simple machine. You wrap the line around the winch three or four times from the bottom up, pulling the line in with one hand and while you crank the winch with the other. On big boats or heavy breeze days, you can team up on a winch with a crew mate,  where one person is the grinder and the other person pulls in the line or “tails the winch”.

The friction of the line wraps around the drum of the winch which usually has some kind of ridges etched in it for better holding effect. As you pull the tail of the line out of the winch the winch spins on bearings and offers you a better purchase on the line than you would have if you were just pulling the line directly from the jib.

The person grinding (or your other hand) can assist your pulling hand or tailor pull the line in by manually spinning the winch with the winch handle. This is where you can exact revenge on a grinder by telling them to grind the winch without actually pulling on the line making them think they are doing work without actually doing anything. (You have to pull on the line for a winch to work).

That’s it - an elegantly simple machine doing a yeoman’s effort of work - better living through technology.

Winch Accidents

Who would think that something so elegantly simple could be so dangerous? Winches while rarely causing lethal injuries, have been known to make some pretty grotesque origami of fingers and hands of errant pit crew (the people who trim the jib in a sailboat race are called the pit crew because they work in the the cockpit and all they do is grind winches).

All too often, a tailor will allow their hands to get a little too close to the winch wraps on the drum and the line will suck your hand into the wraps, crushing, twisting and mangling your fingers and hands.

This is where the grinder can get their revenge by grinding your hands to pulp in the drum of the winch, but my hope is no one is  malicious enough to intentionally grind someone’s hand up into a winch on a sailboat.

There are ways however to avoid having your hands and fingers sucked into a winch. That  comes from how you hold the line. Grasping the line with your thumbs towards you and pulling hand over hand is the safest way to grasp a line. This keeps the finger that makes us human, the thumb, furthest away from danger and allows you drop the line in a hurry if things ever get out of hand.

Invariably however, some people hold the line the wrong way and that is when tragedy strikes.

Wrapping The Winch

The way you wrap a winch is key as one way will work and the other way will not. Most winches will be wrapped from the bottom up in a clockwise direction. I am a little dislexic when it comes to how to load a winch, so usually I will give the winch a turn with my hand before I load it to make sure I understand which way it turns.

Once you have wrapped your winch, it is ready to haul- so keep your hands safe as soon as you put the line on the winch. You’ll know it's time to load up your winch or wrap it, when the skipper says “ready about”.

The Tacking Process

With your winch loaded, your boat is ready to tack and you will tell your skipper that you're ready.  Helm over, the bow swings through the wind and at this point you will release the sheet by unwrapping the line from the winch and allowing it to run freely to the other side, where hopefully your grinder has preloaded their winch and are ready to pull in when the jib switches sides.

An effective tack requires the timing of the process to be exact. If you release your winch too soon, your boat will lose speed and fail to complete the tack. If you release your winch wraps too late, your jib can get stuck up on your mast or life lines and may make the boat over tack or turn too far down wind.

The only way to master the timing of the tack is to practice, but with time and practice you will get a feel for how your boat tacks and when you should release the jib sheet.

For more info on tacking please see our article on sailing maneuvers .

Other Uses For Your Winch

Alton Brown of The Food Network  has said that the only unitasker allowed in his kitchen is a fire extinguisher, and I would suggest that that thinking also applies on a sailboat.

The space is too small and efficiency is too imperative to allow any single use tools to have a place on your boat and as such the winch is no different. Did you really think that a winch could only be used for jib sheets?

Winches can be used for all sorts of other functions in a sailboat, many that have no relation to sailing at all.

I use my jib winch for hauling in spring lines or breast lines on breezy days when the wind is setting my boat off the dock. A  few wraps from a dock line and even the most ardent vessels will relent and come alongside a pier or bulkhead.

Winches can also be  located on the mast for hauling halyards and on the stern quarters for hauling spinnaker gear. It is this universal nature of the winch that makes it such a useful tool on a sailboat.

Other functions can include hauling a MOB over the side or cinching in a dinghy for stormy weather. The coupling of blocks and tackle with a well placed winch can turn a deck winch or a mast winch into an integral part of any emergency plan- so get creative.

Self-Tailing, Electric And Other Revelations In Winch Technology

Perhaps I am showing my age, but when I was a boy, winches came in one flavor, manual.

Today however, there are so many advancements in winch technology that you can navigate your vessel and trim your sails with an app on your phone below decks so that you don't even need sunscreen anymore.

Self tailing winches are winches that wrap the tail in a round jam cleat that is located on the top of the drum. When you crank the drum, the winch will pull the tail simultaneously eliminating the need for a crew member to pull your tail for you.

Electric winches go one step further where an electric motor grinds the winch for you while the winch self-tails, making it possible for you to raise and lower your main or trim your jib without ever exerting any physical effort whatsoever.

I have even seen aftermarket products that can turn a traditional manual winch into an electric winch by using a battery operated hand held motor to grind the winch for you. It may seem like cheating to some, but technology in winch grinding has made it possible for all sorts of people with physical limitations to enter the sport of sailing and/or continue to enjoy the sport of sailing well into their senior years.

Winch Care and Maintenance

I am told and have read that caring for one’s winch is very much a DIY project, but taking a winch apart has never been my favorite thing to do. One wrong move and the loss of one bearing makes a $3000 winch into scrap metal.

So to that extent, washing a winch with mild soap and lots of fresh water to keep salt and sand out of the gears is about as far as I go in caring for my winches. Then again, I have never had really expensive boats either.

I have seen lots of people also cover their winches with canvas and my feeling is while this is cute, it doesn’t do a heck of a lot to protect and may in fact promote rust and corrosion on your aluminum, chrome, stainless steel or bronze varieties. However, covering carbon or other composite types of winches may prolong the life of their finish as UV rays can degrade these varieties.

For more on how to disassemble a winch, how to grease a winch and how to install a winch, check out Google. Harken, West Marine and Ronstan all stand to make money selling you on taking  a winch apart because odds are if you do you'll have to buy a new one. I have sailed with winches that were decades old and worked perfectly without ever greasing them or taking them apart;so I will recommend sticking to soap and water. But you do you.

For now though, watch your digits when loading and hauling on your winch and don't get too intimidated by those barrel side jobs on the luxury sailboats. They are all just winches at the core and all they really do is make pulling in lines easier.

So do good, have fun and sail far.

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Capt Chris German

Capt Chris German is a life long sailor and licensed captain who has taught thousands to sail over the last 20 years. In 2007, he founded a US Sailing-based community sailing school in Bridgeport, CT for inner city youth and families. When Hurricane Sandy forced him to abandon those efforts, he moved to North Carolina where he set out to share this love for broadcasting and sailing with a growing web-based television audience through The Charted Life Television Network.

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The different types of winches and their uses

Discover the essential types of winches and their uses to ensure a safe and enjoyable sailing experience on your next adventure.

The Different Types of Winches and Their Uses

Welcome to our unique and adventurous website, dedicated to those who are leaving the rat race behind, purchasing a boat, and setting sail to explore the world with their families. In this article, we will discuss the different types of winches and their uses, an essential piece of sailing equipment that you will need to familiarize yourself with as you embark on your sailing journey.

Winches are mechanical devices used on boats to help with various tasks, such as raising and lowering sails, adjusting the tension of ropes and lines, and anchoring. They come in various shapes, sizes, and designs, each with its specific purpose and function. Understanding the different types of winches and their uses will help you make informed decisions when selecting the right equipment for your boat and ensure a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

Table of Contents

Manual winches, electric winches, hydraulic winches, self-tailing winches, snubbing winches, anchor winches, choosing the right winch for your boat.

Manual winches are the most common type of winch found on sailboats. They are operated by turning a handle, which rotates a drum around which the line is wrapped. The mechanical advantage provided by the winch allows you to apply greater force to the line than you could by hand, making it easier to perform tasks such as raising sails or adjusting tension.

There are two main types of manual winches: single-speed and two-speed. Single-speed winches have a fixed gear ratio, meaning that the handle turns the drum at a constant rate. Two-speed winches, on the other hand, have two gear ratios, allowing you to switch between a faster, lower-power mode for initial line retrieval and a slower, higher-power mode for fine-tuning tension.

Pros of Manual Winches

• Simple and reliable design
• Lower cost compared to electric or hydraulic winches
• No need for electrical or hydraulic power

Cons of Manual Winches

• Can be physically demanding, especially for larger boats or heavy loads
• Slower operation compared to electric or hydraulic winches

Electric winches are powered by an electric motor, which turns the winch drum at the push of a button. This eliminates the need for manual cranking and can significantly reduce the physical effort required to perform tasks such as raising sails or adjusting tension. Electric winches are especially popular on larger boats, where the loads can be too heavy for manual winches to handle efficiently.

Pros of Electric Winches

• Reduced physical effort compared to manual winches
• Faster operation
• Can be operated by a single person

Cons of Electric Winches

• Higher cost compared to manual winches
• Requires a reliable electrical power source
• More complex design, with more potential points of failure

Hydraulic winches are similar to electric winches in that they are powered by an external source, in this case, a hydraulic pump. Hydraulic winches offer several advantages over electric winches, including greater power and more precise control. They are often used on larger boats and in commercial applications where heavy loads and constant use are common.

Pros of Hydraulic Winches

• Greater power compared to electric winches
• More precise control
• Can handle heavy loads and constant use

Cons of Hydraulic Winches

• Higher cost compared to manual and electric winches
• Requires a hydraulic power source

Self-tailing winches are a type of manual or electric winch that includes a built-in mechanism for automatically maintaining tension on the line as it is wound onto the drum. This eliminates the need for a second person to “tail” the line, making it easier for a single person to operate the winch.

Pros of Self-Tailing Winches

• Allows for single-handed operation
• Reduces the risk of lines becoming tangled or slipping off the drum

Cons of Self-Tailing Winches

• More expensive than non-self-tailing winches
• Slightly more complex design

Snubbing winches are small, single-speed winches used primarily for tensioning lines, such as dock lines or mooring lines. They are not designed for heavy loads or raising sails but can be useful for quickly and easily adjusting tension on smaller lines.

Pros of Snubbing Winches

• Compact and lightweight
• Simple and easy to use

Cons of Snubbing Winches

• Limited to light loads and tensioning tasks

Anchor winches, also known as windlasses, are specialized winches designed specifically for raising and lowering anchors. They are typically electric or hydraulic and are mounted on the bow of the boat. Anchor winches can be either horizontal or vertical, depending on the orientation of the drum and motor.

Pros of Anchor Winches

• Makes raising and lowering anchors much easier and faster
• Reduces the risk of injury from manually handling heavy anchors

Cons of Anchor Winches

• Requires a reliable power source

When selecting a winch for your boat, consider the following factors:

• Boat size and load requirements : Larger boats and heavier loads will require more powerful winches, such as electric or hydraulic models.
• Power source : Ensure that your boat has a reliable power source for electric or hydraulic winches.
• Ease of use : Self-tailing winches and electric winches can make tasks easier for single-handed sailors or those with limited physical strength.
• Budget : Manual winches are generally more affordable than electric or hydraulic models, but may require more effort to operate.

By understanding the different types of winches and their uses, you can make an informed decision when selecting the right equipment for your boat. This will help ensure a safe and enjoyable sailing experience as you embark on your journey to explore the world with your family.

Sail Boat Winches: The Ultimate Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 5, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer: Sail boat winches

Sail boat winches are mechanical devices used on sailboats to assist in hoisting, trimming, and controlling sails. They consist of a drum or wheel around which the line is wound, providing leverage to adjust sail tension and maneuver the boat efficiently. These essential components contribute to the overall performance and handling of sailboats during sailing activities.

Understanding Sail Boat Winches: A Beginner’s Guide

Title: Understanding Sail Boat Winches: A Beginner’s Guide

Introduction: Sailing is an exhilarating experience that combines the awe of nature with the technical skills required to navigate the open waters. One crucial component of any sailboat is the winch , a mechanical device that allows sailors to control and adjust the sails. In this beginner’s guide, we will delve into the world of sail boat winches, unraveling their mechanisms, types, and importance in sailing.

1. The Functionality Behind Sail Boat Winches: When it comes to manipulating sails efficiently, sail boat winches come to the rescue. These devices work by utilizing a drum-shaped spool around which sailors wrap ropes or cables called sheets. By rotating this drum with a handle or an electric motor, immense force can be exerted onto these sheets for adjusting various aspects of your sails such as tension and angle.

2. Types of Sail Boat Winches: There are two main types of sail boat winches—self-tailing and standard winches. Standard winches require manual tailing or holding onto the sheet while turning the handle to increase or decrease tension. On the other hand, self-tailing winches feature a built-in mechanism that automatically grips and holds onto the line when it is turned in one direction but easily releases when rotated in reverse.

3. Choosing the Right Size for Your Vessel: Selecting an appropriate size for your sail boat winch is crucial as it will directly impact its functionality on deck. Factors such as displacement (weight), type of sailing (cruising or racing), and anticipated wind conditions all dictate what size winch you should choose. It is advisable to consult experienced sailors or experts who can guide you towards making an informed decision.

4. Maintenance Tips for Optimal Performance: Like any mechanical equipment, sail boat winches require regular maintenance to ensure optimal performance throughout their lifespan. Here are some key maintenance tips:

– Regularly lubricate winches to prevent corrosion and ensure smooth operation. – Clean the self-tailing mechanism periodically, as dirt and grime can hinder its functionality. – Check for any signs of wear or damage, such as frayed ropes or loose parts, and replace them immediately to avoid accidents.

5. Common Mistakes to Avoid: In the excitement of sailing, beginners often make some common mistakes when it comes to sail boat winches. Here are a few things to steer clear of:

– Overloading the winch: Be aware of the winch’s load-bearing capacity and avoid pushing it beyond its limits. Overloading can lead to premature wear and tear or even breakage. – Not using proper techniques: Take the time to learn proper winching techniques such as tailing or wrapping the line correctly around the drum. This ensures efficient power transfer, preventing unnecessary strain on both you and the winch.

Conclusion: Understanding sail boat winches paves the way for a smoother sailing experience. By grasping their functionality, choosing wisely according to your vessel’s needs, conducting regular maintenance, and avoiding common mistakes, you will unlock an essential skill that truly elevates your sailing adventures . So go ahead, hoist those sails confidently with your newfound knowledge of sail boat winches!

How to Properly Use Sail Boat Winches: Step-by-Step Instructions

Sailing enthusiasts know that properly using sailboat winches is crucial for smooth sailing and efficient maneuvering. These powerful devices are used to handle sails, control lines, and make adjustments on the boat. However, if used incorrectly, they can lead to strained muscles or even accidents on board. In this step-by-step guide, we will take you through the process of using sailboat winches correctly to ensure a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

Step 1: Familiarize Yourself with Winch Components Before embarking on your sailing journey, it is essential to understand the different components of a sailboat winch . The three main components are the drum (where the line wraps around), the handle attachment point (often referred to as the “winch socket”), and the winch handle itself.

Step 2: Assess Line Placement Take a moment to assess how various lines are set up on your boat . Identify which lines go through specific winches or blocks connected to them. Understanding this configuration will help you determine which winch you need to use for each task.

Step 3: Choosing the Correct Winch Size Not all winches are created equal. Sailboats usually have multiple winches onboard, each with a different purpose based on load requirements. Choose an appropriately sized winch based on the size and tension of the line you will be handling.

Step 4: Securely Attach Winch Handle Once you have selected the appropriate winch, firmly attach its handle to the winch socket by sliding it in and giving it a slight twist until it locks in place securely. Always ensure that the handle is fully engaged before applying any force.

Step 5: Winding Lines onto Drum To start winding lines onto the drum, hold onto the standing part of the line (the part that doesn’t move) with one hand while turning clockwise with your other hand on top of the drum using gentle pressure. Gradually increase the pressure as needed, but remember to avoid excessive force to prevent damage to the winch or potential injuries.

Step 6: Releasing Tension When you need to release tension from a line, hold onto the standing part with one hand and use your other hand on top of the drum. Turn counterclockwise while maintaining control of the line’s speed. Always keep track of your fingers’ positions and be cautious not to get them caught between the line and drum.

Step 7: Two-Person Operation For larger boats or when handling heavy loads, consider using a two-person operation method for increased safety and efficiency. One person can handle managing the lines while another operates the winch handle, ensuring smoother coordination and reducing strain on both individuals.

Step 8: Regular Maintenance Proper maintenance ensures longevity and optimal functionality. Regularly inspect your winches for signs of wear, lubricate them according to manufacturer guidelines, and replace worn parts promptly. This upkeep will help prevent unexpected failures at critical moments during your sailing adventures .

By following these step-by-step instructions on using sailboat winches properly, you can navigate with confidence, maintain control over your sails, and enhance overall safety while out on the water. Remember always to prioritize caution and respect for these powerful tools – they are there to make sailing more manageable, more enjoyable, and above all else, safe!

Frequently Asked Questions about Sail Boat Winches: Your Answers Revealed

If you are a sailor or boat enthusiast , then chances are you have come across the term “winch” at some point. Sail boat winches are an essential piece of equipment that play a crucial role in controlling and maneuvering your sailboat. However, despite their importance, many people still have questions about how they work and why they are so vital on a sailing vessel . In this blog post, we will dive deep into the frequently asked questions about sail boat winches to provide you with detailed, professional, witty, and clever explanations.

1. What is a sail boat winch?

A sail boat winch is a mechanical device designed to make it easier to hoist sails by multiplying the force exerted by the crew members. It consists of several important components such as the drum (where the rope is wound), gears (to increase power), and handles (to turn the winch). By using leverage and gearing mechanisms, sailors can effortlessly control high loads and adjust sail settings with minimal effort.

2. Why do I need a winch on my sailboat ?

Well, imagine trying to hoist a heavy mainsail or trim a jib without any assistance – it would be quite the workout! Sail boat winches allow sailors to efficiently handle large loads produced by strong winds and heavy sails. They enable precise control over various aspects of sailing like raising or lowering sails, adjusting tension in lines, and controlling angles during maneuvers. Without winches, performing these tasks would require immense physical strength that could quickly exhaust even the most seasoned sailors.

3. How do I choose the right winch for my sailboat ?

The size and type of sailboat winch depend on several factors such as boat size, rigging setup, type of sailing (cruising or racing), and personal preferences. Generally speaking, larger boats with more powerful rigs require larger winches to handle the higher loads. However, it’s important to strike a balance as excessively oversized winches can be unnecessarily heavy and harder to operate efficiently. Consulting with experts or seeking advice from experienced sailors is always recommended when selecting the right winch for your specific sailboat .

4. Can I use an electric winch instead of a manual one?

Absolutely! Electric winches have become increasingly popular among sailors due to their convenience and ease of use. Electric winches are powered by electricity and can significantly reduce physical effort , making them an excellent option for those with limited strength or on larger boats where loads can be substantial. However, it’s worth noting that electric winches come at a higher cost compared to their manual counterparts, require additional wiring and power supply, and may need regular maintenance.

5. How do I properly maintain my sail boat winches?

To ensure your sail boat winches keep performing optimally, regular maintenance is essential. Firstly, keep them clean! Saltwater, sand, and grime can cause corrosion and damage over time. Lubricating the moving parts regularly using appropriate marine-grade lubricants will help prevent wear and tear while ensuring smooth operation. Inspecting the components for any signs of damage or excessive wear is critical to catching potential issues early on before they turn into bigger problems.

Now that we’ve revealed the answers to some frequently asked questions about sail boat winches, you should have a better understanding of their importance in sailing, how to choose the right one for your sailboat, consider electric options if desired, and maintain them properly for optimal performance. So go ahead – hoist those sails with confidence knowing that your trusty winch has got your back!

Choosing the Right Sail Boat Winch for Your Needs: A Comprehensive Guide

Are you an avid sailor looking to upgrade your sail boat winch? Or, perhaps you’re new to sailing and in need of guidance on how to choose the perfect winch for your needs. Look no further! In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about selecting the right sail boat winch.

Firstly, it’s important to understand that a sail boat winch plays a crucial role in managing and adjusting the tension of your sails. It allows sailors to control their sails effortlessly, ensuring smooth sailing experiences without any manual exertion. But with so many options available on the market, choosing the right sail boat winch can be overwhelming.

To simplify the process, let’s break down some key factors that should influence your decision-making:

1. Size and Power: The size and power of a sail boat winch should correspond to the size and weight of your boat as well as the strength needed for efficient operation. Consider factors such as the size of your sails, wind conditions in your sailing area, and the effort required for control. Opting for a more powerful winch may provide ease of use in challenging conditions or if you have physical limitations.

2. Self-Tailing Functionality: Do you desire convenience while on deck? If so, consider investing in a self-tailing winch. This nifty feature allows for easy one-handed operation by automatically holding onto lines when released or during adjustment. It eliminates the need for additional crew members or using extra equipment like clamps or cleats – definitely handy!

3. Winch Material: When it comes to materials used in making sail boat winches, stainless steel is often a popular choice due to its durability against harsh marine environments. However, aluminum options are lighter and less expensive while still providing decent performance.

4. Gear Ratio: The gear ratio refers to how many turns are required on the handle or drum to turn the line (rope) on the winch. A higher gear ratio will provide greater power, allowing you to control larger sails or handle higher wind loads with less effort. Conversely, a lower gear ratio will require more physical exertion but can be ideal for smaller boats or lighter sail handling.

5. Single Speed vs. Two-Speed Winches: Single speed winches function with a fixed gear ratio while two-speed winches offer the ability to switch between different gear ratios using a secondary speed handle or button. If you frequently sail in variable wind conditions, having the flexibility of switching gears quickly can be advantageous.

6. Maintenance and Ease of Use: Consider how easy it is to maintain and service the winch. Look for models that have accessible parts and clear instructions for lubrication and cleaning. This ensures longevity and keeps your winch performing at its best for years to come.

7. Budget: While cost should never be the sole determinant, it is worth considering your budgetary limitations before making a purchase. Remember that investing in a high-quality sail boat winch may save you money in the long run by providing increased reliability and minimizing maintenance costs.

So there you have it – a comprehensive guide to assist you in choosing the right sail boat winch for your needs! By considering factors such as size and power, self-tailing functionality, materials used, gear ratio options, single speed vs. two-speed choices, maintenance requirements, and budget constraints, you’ll be well-equipped to make an informed decision that enhances your sailing experience .

Fair winds and happy sailing !

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Using Sail Boat Winches

Sailing enthusiasts and boat owners alike can attest to the excitement and joy that comes with setting sail, harnessing the power of the wind, and gliding across the open waters. And when it comes to maneuvering your sailboat efficiently, winches are an essential tool. These mechanical devices make it easier to control and adjust the sails, maximizing their efficiency and ensuring a smooth sailing experience.

However, even experienced sailors can occasionally fall victim to certain mistakes when using sail boat winches. To ensure that you make the most of these valuable tools, we’ve compiled a comprehensive list of common mistakes that you should avoid:

1. Neglecting Proper Maintenance One of the biggest oversights sailors often make is neglecting regular maintenance on their sailboat winches . Over time, saltwater exposure, debris accumulation, and general wear and tear can cause winches to become less effective or even malfunction entirely. It’s crucial to clean your winches regularly (especially after every outing), lubricate them with appropriate grease or oil, inspect for any damage or corrosion, and replace parts as necessary.

2. Improper Usage Winch systems are designed specifically for certain operations such as hoisting sails or trimming lines. Using them incorrectly not only decreases their efficiency but also increases the risk of accidents or equipment damage. Familiarize yourself with your specific winch system’s capabilities by thoroughly reading through its user manual.

3. Overloading Winch Capacity Each winch has a specific load capacity which must never be exceeded; otherwise, you risk damaging the gears or even causing them to fail altogether. Make sure you understand your sailboat’s specifications regarding maximum loads per winch size before loading it up excessively.

4. Incorrect Line Placement Placing lines incorrectly on the winch drum is another common mistake made by both beginners and experienced sailors alike. A misaligned line can lead to poor control over sheet tension or cause slipping during critical moments. Always ensure that the line wraps evenly and securely around the winch drum, without overlapping or crossing over itself.

5. Jerky and Rapid Cranking Using excessive force or aggressively cranking the winch handle in a jerky manner can put unnecessary strain on both the winch and yourself. It’s essential to maintain smooth , controlled movements when cranking the winch handle. Distribute your efforts evenly, using your whole body instead of relying solely on arm strength for a more efficient technique.

6. Ignoring Safety Precautions Operating sailboat winches without taking proper safety precautions can lead to severe injuries or accidents. Ensure that loose clothing or jewelry is secured before handling winches to prevent entanglement. Additionally, wearing appropriate gloves will provide you with a better grip while decreasing the chances of rope burns or blisters.

7. Lack of Communication In any sailing endeavor involving multiple crew members, communication is crucial when it comes to working with winches effectively. Failing to communicate clearly about intended maneuvers or anticipated adjustments can lead to confusion and mistakes, compromising both efficiency and safety. Establish clear signals and procedures beforehand to minimize misunderstandings when operating sailboat winches.

By avoiding these common mistakes, you’ll undoubtedly be able to enjoy smoother sailing experiences while prolonging the life of your sailboat winches significantly. Remember, it’s essential always to prioritize safety and maintain regular maintenance routines for optimal performance on your sailing adventures !

Tips and Tricks for Maintaining and Troubleshooting Sail Boat Winches

To all the passionate sailors out there, we know that sailboat winches are a crucial part of your sailing experience. These mechanical wonders help control and trim sails, making your boat glide gracefully through the water . However, like any other piece of equipment on a sailboat, winches require regular maintenance and occasionally encounter problems. Fear not! In this blog post, we will reveal some valuable tips and tricks for maintaining and troubleshooting sailboat winches like a pro.

1. Understand Your Winch: Before diving into maintenance or troubleshooting, it’s essential to understand how your specific winch works. Study the manufacturer’s manual or consult an experienced sailor to gain a comprehensive understanding of the mechanisms involved. This knowledge will serve as your foundation throughout the process.

2. Cleanliness is Key: Saltwater, sand, and grime can quickly build up on sailboat winches, compromising their functionality. Make cleaning a regular part of your maintenance routine. Use freshwater to rinse off any dirt or salt residue from the winch drum, gears, and pawls. A small brush can be handy for reaching intricate areas.

3. Grease Them Up: Lubrication plays a vital role in ensuring smooth operation and longevity of your winches . Apply high-quality marine grease to lubricate moving parts such as gears and pawls periodically but avoid over-greasing which can attract debris.

4. Check for Wear and Tear: Regular inspections are crucial to identify signs of wear and tear before they become major issues during your sailing adventures . Pay close attention to the condition of drum bearings, gear teeth, pawls, springs, and screws – any abnormalities should be addressed promptly by replacing or repairing worn-out components.

5. Tension Adjustment: Maintaining proper tension on your winch lines will enhance performance while reducing wear on ropes (halyards) or sheets in use. Familiarize yourself with different types of line grips available for your winch model to optimize tension settings accordingly.

6. Smooth Rotation: Ratchet mechanisms play a vital role in sailboat winches, ensuring that the drum rotates freely when sailing but locks when you need it to. If you’re experiencing excessive resistance or the ratchet is slipping, it may be time to disassemble and inspect these crucial parts for wear or debris accumulation that hinder smooth rotation.

7. Pawl Springs: The pawls and springs are responsible for holding the line securely in place after each winching action. Inspect these components to ensure they engage smoothly and securely with no signs of weakness or damage. Replace any worn-out pawl springs promptly as they can affect the reliability of your winch.

8. Winch Servicing Kit: Consider investing in a winch servicing kit designed specifically for your brand and model. These kits usually contain an assortment of replacement parts, such as new pawls, springs, bearings, and seals – all conveniently packaged together for easy maintenance.

9. Seek Professional Assistance when Needed: Sailboat winches can be intricate pieces of machinery requiring specific expertise for complex repairs or maintenance tasks. If you encounter major problems beyond your capabilities, don’t hesitate to seek professional help from experienced marine mechanics or reputable sailboat service centers.

10. Prevention is Better than Cure: Regular maintenance is key to avoiding unexpected issues during crucial moments at sea. Establish a maintenance schedule and stick to it diligently – this will ensure that your sailboat winches are always ready for action when you cast off!

Now armed with these essential tips and tricks for maintaining and troubleshooting your sailboat winches, you’ll be able to keep them functioning at their best while enjoying worry-free sailing adventures on open waters! Happy sailing!

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• Mastering your sailing experience: All about self-tailing winches

When it comes to sailing, having the right equipment can make all the difference in the world. Among the crucial components of a sailboat, the self-tailing winch stands out as a true workhorse. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into the world of self-tailing winches, exploring their meaning, function, and how they can enhance your sailing experience.

Understanding the basics

Let's start with the basics. A self-tailing winch is a mechanical device used on sailboats to handle the lines or ropes (commonly referred to as sheets) that control the sails. Its unique design allows for easier and more efficient sail adjustment.

Here's a simplified explanation of how a winch operates:

• The drum : At the core of a winch is a drum, often cylindrical in shape. This drum is connected to a shaft, which can rotate when powered.
• Cable or rope : A strong and durable cable or rope is wound around the drum. This cable is what you'll attach to the load you want to lift or pull.
• Power source : Winches can be powered by various sources, depending on their application. Common power sources include electric motors, hydraulic systems, or manual cranks.
• Engaging the winch : To start the winching process, you engage the winch by either turning on the motor, activating the hydraulic system, or manually rotating the drum using a handle.
• Winding the cable : As the drum rotates, it winds the cable or rope around itself. This winding action creates tension on the cable.
• Lifting or pulling : The tension on the cable allows the winch to either lift a load vertically or pull it horizontally, depending on how it's anchored.
• Direction control : Most winches have a direction control mechanism that lets you choose whether the cable is wound in or out. This control allows for precise load movement.
• Safety measures : Winches often come with safety features, such as brakes or clutches, to prevent the cable from unwinding unintentionally.
• Load limit : It's crucial to be aware of the winch's load limit, as exceeding it can damage the winch or lead to accidents. Always follow manufacturer guidelines.
• Releasing the cable : To release the cable or rope, you disengage the winch and allow it to unwind the cable from the drum.

Winches are versatile tools used in various industries and recreational activities, from off-roading and sailing to construction and rescue operations. Understanding how they work ensures safe and efficient use in different scenarios.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Winch on a sail boat close up and sailor pulling the rope.

Check out our latest sailing content:

Sailboat winches , 1. manual winches.

• Manual winches are operated by hand. They have a handle that sailors turn to wind in or release the line. They are commonly found on smaller sailboats and are cost-effective.

2. Electric winches

• Electric winches are powered by an electric motor, making sail adjustments even more effortless. They are often used on larger sailboats and luxury yachts, where the loads can be significant.

Functions of sailboat winches

1. hoisting sails.

• Sailboat winches are primarily used to hoist sails. They make it possible for sailors to raise heavy sails, such as the mainsail or jib, quickly and with minimal effort.

2. Trimming sails

• Once the sails are hoisted, winches are used to trim them properly. Sailors can adjust the tension on the sails' sheets (lines) to achieve the desired sail shape and performance.

3. Adjusting lines

• Sailboats have numerous lines and halyards (ropes) that control various aspects of sail trim and boat handling. Winches assist in adjusting these lines effectively.

4. Securing anchors and docking

• Some sailboats use winches to handle anchor lines and docking lines. This helps in securely anchoring the boat and safely maneuvering it in and out of harbors.

5. Cranking

• Sailboat winches can also be used for cranking purposes, such as raising a dinghy or lifting heavy objects on board.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. Contact me.

Denisa Kliner Nguyenová

Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Leave a comment

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Six-Brand Winch Test: Anderson On Top

Anyone who has been on the bitter end of the sheet when a big genoa starts to fill—whipping and shaking with terrifying violence—knows how important it is to have a winch to convert that flailing energy to forward propulsion.

Winches are to sailboats what the inclined plane was to the Egyptians.

They make the difficult easy, place the impossible within reach.

The equivalent of a dozen or more men needed to heave on a square rigger’s halyard or brace is represented on a modern sailboat by a small, precision-made, cylindrical machine packed with levers and gears.

The refinement of gearing and the development of smooth-operating self-tailers has promoted modern winches from two-man to one-man workhorses with amazing power.

Their only negative is their proclivity to induce fidgety idlers to rotate them mindlessly, just to hear the pawls ratchet. These idlers usually can be broken of this annoying habit by shouting, “Winchclicker! Winchclicker!! Winchclicker!!!” If that fails, they generally are put ashore (if in harbor) or put to death (if on a long sea voyage).

Let’s take a close look at two common sizes of winches. They’re all expensive, because they are well-made precision equipment. They’re also among the most frequently retrofitted items; it’s worth repeating here that an oft-heard saying aboard a lot of sailboats is that the winches they came with are not big enough.

In the two categories selected, these winches are from six manufacturers—Andersen (Denmark), Antal (Italy), Barton (England), Harken (United States), Lewmar (England) and Setamar (Germany).

Small Winches The first category is very small winches. Those represented in this evaluation are among the smallest made by five of the manufacturers. One maker, Antal, makes excellent small winches in several sizes, but could not supply one for testing.

Small, single-speed winches, either with a handle or simply snubbing winches, are invaluable on small boats, for halyards, jib sheets, spinnaker sheets, reefing gear, vangs, etc., and handy, too, for many tasks aboard larger boats. Small winches do not come with the self-tailing mechanism; most manufacturers (Andersen is the exception) start the self-tailers with #16s, which also happens to be the minimum size for two-speed gearing.

Small winches are said to have a gear ratio of 1:1. That means they are direct drive. The only power advantage is that provided by a winch handle. It’s simple leverage, with two sets of pawls (one pair to restrain the drum; the other pair to permit the handle to ratchet freely). One turn of the crank is one turn on the drum. On a small boat, the single-digit power ratio provided by the handle often is ample for sheets. Non-geared winches take in line rapidly. Such winches often are used for halyards on somewhat larger boats. (The power ratio is the length of the handle divided by the radius of the drum.)

Snubbing winches, which do not accept a handle, turn in one direction only. They need only a single set of ratchet pawls. If enough wraps are applied, snubbing winches give the user time to get a new grip or to simply hold the line lightly while friction between the drum and the line takes the load.

They provide little mechanical advantage, but snubbing winches facilitate a good utilization of intermittent muscle power, They also have good line retrieval speed, which always is a consideration when dealing with winches.

Simple and trouble-free, they are of great value when the line load is no more than one’s weight or pulling strength. A halyard can be sweated up very taut by the “heave and hold” method of pulling hard on the line perpendicular to the mast with one hand while grabbing slack on the winch with the other hand.

With either small, direct-drive winches with handles or simple snubbers, the line retrieval rate is an undiluted derivative of the drum diameter, i.e. one revolution of the winch hauls in a length of line equal to the drum’s diameter multiplied by that popular symbolic 16th letter in the Greek alphabet. As a practical matter, line in equals line out.

Because they are simple devices, these small winches were not tested.

The Roaring 40s The second category is the very popular “Number Forties.” Winches are given numbers that correspond to their lowest and most powerful gear ratio. The power ratio of a geared winch is the length of the handle divided by the radius of the drum, multiplied by the gear ratio.

The big winches in this test are Andersens, Antals, Bartons, Harkens, Lewmars and Setamars. We tried to include the Australian-made Murray bottom-action winches, but could not find a U.S. distributor.

The versatile #40s—or their close equivalents—serve as genoa sheet winches on 30- to 35-foot boats, for spinnaker sheets and mainsheets on boats up to 48′, and for halyards, topping lifts, vangs, etc., on much larger sailboats.

The #40s in this collection are all two-speed. Three-speed winches usually are found on racing boats; they come in bigger sizes and get complicated and expensive.

All but one of these winches are self-tailing. In the beginning, several decades ago, self-tailing winches were troublesome…as is usual with most new things. Now perfected, the self-tailing mechanisms represent the only way to go on either racing or cruising boats.

Because winches are such beautifully made gear and rarely get worn out, marine consignment shops across the country are clogged with standard winches—mostly Barients—that once were highly coveted (as well as highly priced). We know of at least one instance in which dozens of perfectly usable standard winches were sold as scrap metal.

There even are a few early-model self-tailers (from various manufacturers) showing up now in the consignment shops; they’re okay for moderate duty but, generally speaking, are not good buys because the self-tailing mechanisms often are not as refined as those on current models. In plain English, that means they slip under heavier loads. Many also have abrasive drum surfaces that devour line.

The Test The Practical Sailor test, designed to establish efficiency ratings for winches, involves mounting each winch on the workbench.

To measure the force exerted, a 15″ torque wrench was used instead of a standard 10″ handle. (The extra length of the torque wrench required adjustments in the calculations.)

Sta-Set X, a modern, rather slippery line, was used, with some of the early tests repeated using Regatta braid, a fuzzy-finish line. The theory that because of varying friction a slippery line might produce different numbers than a fuzzy line proved specious.

At the other end of the bench, a tripled length of 1/2″ shock cord held by two eye straps provided the resistance. Shackled to the shock cord was a carefully calibrated Dillon dynamometer with a handy red max needle. The Sta-Set was attached to the other shackle on the dynamometer and thence to the winch. Four wraps were used. A minimum of three generally is recommended for all but extreme loads. The exception was the Setamar, which requires just one partial wrap of at least 220°.

Pulls of 10 and 20 pounds were for the trimmer easy work. Additional pulls of 30 pounds produced some sweat. A pull of 40 pounds probably would be regarded by an average person as a maximum effort; 50 pounds would be something only a bench-pressing girlfriend would do without making some kind of noise.

The numerous pulls produced figures whose averages indicate how close each winch came to meeting its power ratio.

An additional step in the testing was to determine how easy it is to free the line from the self-tailer and ease the line, as one would do in easing a sheet or halyard when coming off a beat onto a reach or run. In the case of the Setamar, this becomes complicated and is controlled by the handle.

The Results First of all, the fact that the smooth-skinned Sta-Set performed the same as fuzzy Regatta braid indicates that the gripping action of the self-tailing mechanisms on all of these winches probably is no longer at issue. There were difficulties when self-tailers were first introduced; that was before it was recognized that the diameter of the drum and the base diameter of the self-tailer were very critical dimensions.

Click here to view the Winches Value Guide .

There appeared to be no slippage. However, the sharpness of the teeth on the self-tailers’ disks may well affect wear on the line.

Dealing first with the small winches, there are lots of places on small boats where the ultra-simple Barton snubbing winch (about $50) would be useful. The almost equally simple Lewmar #6 ($92 in anodized aluminum) has an efficient mechanism; it also comes (for more money) in chromed or polished bronze. The #6 Harken ($108 for aluminum) turns on sleeved bearings and is the smoothest operating.

For small-boat sheets or bigger-boat halyards and vangs, the small single-speed Setamar ($364) makes eminently good sense. The ability to ease a sheet or halyard by turning the handle in the opposite direction, before freeing the line entirely, constitutes, in our opinion, a valuable safety factor. As was pointed out in an earlier, more detailed review (in the February 15, 1997 issue), the drum-less Setamar winches are very ingenious and may represent the design approach of the future. However, they currently are too expensive.

The Andersen #6 ($102), all-stainless, beautifully made, with Andersen’s ribbed drum and needle bearings, commands categorization as top-of-the-heap and Best Buy.

Summarizing now about the large winches, it’s tough to choose between Andersen and Lewmar. But first, let’s review the others.

The little Barton G23 is not comparable with the big 40s. It was included not only because it’s Barton’s biggest winch, but also because it may point to the future. An “Ugly Ducking”, if there ever was one (see photo), the Barton is made largely of reinforced plastic (including plastic needle bearing), but with a stainless steel axle, pawls and planetary drive gears made of sintered stainless, and a stainless sleeve on the plastic drum. The winch is a powerhouse and, along with being very light and corrosion free, requires almost no service. An occasional flushing with an optional light hit of WD40 is all it needs. It’s a $400 workhorse.

Although handsome winches and very finely made, both the Harken and Antal suffer from what appear to be unnecessarily complicated innards that produce some fall-off in efficiency. They suffer especially in their geared high speed modes and make the initial retrieval of line quite slow compared with the Setamar, Andersen and even the Lewmar.

In addition, the Practical Sailor tests revealed that the Harken drum surface caused abrasion on the Sta-Set line that was easily detected visually after only three or four “pulls.” The Harken and Antal have the most abrasive drums.

The Setamar? It’s so different, it’s difficult to compare with the more conventional #40s. It has a number of strong points. The principal ones are that it retrieves line fast (as fast as the Andersen) and easing of a loaded line can be controlled very safely with the handle (after shifting the top ring). Other benefits are that no wraps are needed; it is small and very lightweight, and line wear is the lowest of all.

The Setamar negatives: It is not a thing of beauty; is complicated to strip and clean (which it requires often); takes some “getting used to,” and it is far too costly.

Both the best and the Best Buy is the Andersen, but there’s almost no gap between it and the Lewmar.

The Lewmar, a first-rate value, is part of a line that was completely redesigned a few years ago to simplify the gearing, reduce the number of parts and make the winch both stronger and easier to service.

The Lewmar ranks first in efficiency, a hair ahead of the Andersen, and is easy to disassemble. If it had a drum as good as the Andersen, it would be a toss-up.

The Andersen has a direct drive high gear that retrieves line fast, a good low gear mechanism that may come second to the bearing-packed Harken, but its real forte is the polished stainless steel drum. The drum, a masterpiece of metal-working, is ribbed, which produces very little abrasion because it moves the coiled line up the drum much better than an abrasive drum. The drum should last virtually forever.

A peculiarity of the Andersen is that when the line is heavily loaded, easing the line can be a bit jerky as the line skips from rib to rib. Although initially disconcerting, it is not even a minor problem.

There’s nothing second-rate about any of these winches. They all work very, very well and last a long time if properly cared for. The choice may involve gear ratios, serviceability or even cosmetics (we still believe a good part of a sailboat’s appeal is aesthetic).

If it’s something different you want, try Setamar. If you don’t need a large winch, don’t overlook the “new-tech” Bartons. But for efficiency, serviceability, construction and appearance, our top choice is the Andersen.

Contacts- Andersen, Scandvik, Inc., 423 4th Pl. SW, Vero Beach, FL 32961-0068; 561/567-2877. Antal, Euro Marine Trading, Inc., 62 Halsey, Newport, RI 02840; 800/222-7712. Barton, Imtra Corp., 30 Samuel Barnet Blvd., New Bedford, MA 02745; 5008/005-7000, www.imtra.com. Harken, 1252 E. Wisconsin, Pewaukee, WI 53072; 262/691-3320; www.harken.com. Lewmar, New Whitfield St., Guilford, CT 06437; 203/458-6200; www.lewmar.com. Setamar, Setamar USA, Box 840, 17 Burnside St., Bristol, RI 02809; 401/253-2244.

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How to Use Sailing Winches

• By Mike Lee
• Updated: June 14, 2013

Sailing winches are almost always taken for granted, yet these compact pieces of mechanical machinery are incredibly powerful. Even the winches on a 30- or 40-foot sailboat are capable of pulling 2 tons or more. The thing about winches is that they’re so reliable that most sailors rarely pay much attention to them—until something goes wrong. Using sailing winches correctly should always be a priority.

To understand the capability of winches, let’s crunch some numbers. Say your boat has a “number 42” primary winch, which is an industry standard. The “42” represents a 42:1 power ratio. If an average person applies 50 pounds of load using a 10-inch winch handle, the result will be 2,100 pounds of pull (42 x 50 = 2,100). That figure puts the power potential into suitable perspective. With this much power in play, you must consider whether you’re operating your winch safely. When it comes to sailing winches, the most common mistake is not having enough wraps around the drum to hold the line load safely. In most cases, three wraps just aren’t enough. With too few wraps, several issues can arise.

For example, say that you’re coming out of a tack with a little load on the new sheet. It’s still easy to grasp, so you lock it into the self-tailer. But as the wind freshens and the jib fills, the sheet load greatly exceeds what it was coming out of the tack. Now you want to bear away and ease the sheet. But with only three wraps on the drum, just releasing it from the self-tailer may suck your fingers into the winch. This is a very painful way to learn about winch loads.

Furthermore, beyond the personal hazard, higher loads and few wraps can also equal a damaged winch, as those greater sheet loads will be transferred to the self-tailing arm rather than to the drum. Replacing a bent or broken self-tailing arm is not an inexpensive proposition.

On the flip side, to err on the side of caution can also present problems. For instance, easing a sheet with too many wraps might result in an override that takes some time to unjam. The takeaway message here? There’s a fine line between too many and too few wraps. As is often the case in sailing, you can “feel” when it’s right. So pay attention to the loads on the winch, respect the powerful consequences, and wrap accordingly.

Sending someone up the mast? This requires even greater winch safety, as a life is literally in your hands. It’s a good idea to have an experienced sailor demonstrate for new crewmembers how to send someone aloft properly. Once again, it’s important to have a sufficient number of wraps to hold the person, yet not so many that the halyard overrides. Whenever possible, instead of trusting the self-tailer, always have a second person tailing the halyard. When lowering the mast climber back to the deck, ensure a smooth ride down by taking one or two wraps off the drum. You want to avoid bouncing and jerking the person the length of the spar.

Whenever you’re grinding a winch, if the load becomes excessive or extreme, simply stop cranking. This is especially important with winches powered electrically or hydraulically; with such winches, the operator can’t actually feel the increased tension. Take the time to observe the line. If it stops moving, this almost always means that something is jammed somewhere. A 2,100-pound load on a sheet that’s tangled around a deck hatch can quickly become a major problem if it isn’t immediately addressed.

With power winches, the loads are even greater. A small, electric winch motor can produce about 9 pounds of load, but because such engines spin so fast, the speed needs to be reduced. Enter a 24:1 reduction gear. However, the gear not only reduces the speed of the motor but also increases the torque—in this instance, to 216 pounds. Now multiply that by our previous 42:1 power ratio; suddenly, in theory, that little powered winch should be able to pull 9,072 pounds. (We say “in theory” because with a proper circuit breaker, the amperage draw should trip well before that load is reached. Also, the parts in a 42 winch are really designed to handle loads only produced by a sailor working a winch handle. If something does fail, it’s better if it’s a winch part and not anything more critical—like the mast.)

Of course, proper technique is only one part of winch safety. The other is making sure that they’re properly maintained. The little clicking noise you hear deep inside a working winch comes from the ratchet pawls. The pawls lock the drum in place to keep it from moving backward, and they essentially bear the entire load placed on a winch. When servicing a winch, it’s important to inspect the pawls to make sure they aren’t packed with gunk or cracked, which will cause them to stick in the socket. When that happens, there’s nothing to bear the load; essentially, it’s the same as trying to hold the jib sheet with a bare hand. At least once a season, check the pawls.

The winch’s mounting bolts also require periodic inspection. Over time, a surprising number of such bolts do loosen up, some to the point that they can be retightened by hand. Get in the habit of inspecting those bolts each spring, and while you’re at it, also test the deck section on which the winch is mounted. On older boats with cored decks, water may seep through the fastening holes and cause rot. In most cases, simply tapping the deck with a screwdriver tells the tale. A soft deck will make a different, easily distinguished sound from that made by a solid one. A rotten deck core won’t hold winch loads very long. Deck surgery is then required.

Remember: A single winch can generate huge loads, and these are often larger than most sailors realize. So always apply the correct number of wraps, avoid or correct jams, and keep up with basic maintenance. Treat your sailing winch with respect, and you’ll get plenty of trouble-free service from it.

Mike Lee is a marine-industry pro with over 25 years of technical and sailing experience.

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18 Dec 2018

Deck winches are an essential piece of kit on board yachts of all sizes. They provide the power for handling high line loads associated with heavy sail hoists and trimming demands during high winds. The right winch will make the sailing experience more efficient and therefore very much more enjoyable.

There are a great many different sailing yachts and catamarans on the market. Each sail plan will place a unique demand on its winches and crew. Furthermore, owners will all have different sailing aspirations and preferences. So which type of winch should I choose?

The most common winches can be broadly categorised as snubber, plain top, self-tailing or electric. Although each type has variations, the category is broadly determined by design features which assist specific applications.

Snubber winches

Designed to increase sheet holding power on dayboats when the sheet loads are not yet big enough to require a mechanical advantage. The bulk of the sheet is pulled in hand over hand before putting a turn or two around the snubber. The snubber has a ratchet system that freely allows more tension to be applied to the sheet but locks to provide increased friction on the line to assist holding. Tension must be maintained on the exit line to prevent easing. The Barton Snubber Winch is shown below.

Plain top winches

Generally available for all yachts from dayboats upwards. Plain top winches are a versatile upgrade to the snubber winch for short terms use applications. Additional power is provided by manual winch handles which fit the central top sprocket. They are most effective with two sets of hands to operate as tension will need to be maintained on the exit line during winching. These winches are available in a variety of sizes and gear ratios. The larger options often have multiple speeds to allow for fast or slow powerful trimming. Can be used with halyards when they are led through a clutch first and for all types of sheets. Cruisers who may be spending a long time on one tack will either need to make off the free end to a cleat or look at a self-tailing option. The picture below shows a Lewmar 8 which is similar to the  Harken Classic Plain Top

Self-tailing winches

Offer the same manual power advantages as the plain top version but have an integrated stripper arm and rope jammer on top of the drum. This allows the winch to be operated by a single person. With the line led up over the stripper arm and then held in the spring-loaded jaws of the gripper, the winch can be worked with a handle to tension the line with the line ‘self-tailing’ onto the cockpit floor or deck. To release the line, the free end is simply unwound from the jaws and manually paid out. The internal ratchets ensure the drum does not unwind at the same time, thus allowing for controlled easing. Self-tailing winches are essential for short-handed sailing or for longer cruises when a sheet or halyard can be set and locked off in one place for long periods of time. Jimmy Green offer a range of self tailing winches from brands such as the  Harken Radial, Lewmar Evo and Karver.

Electric winches

Increasingly common on yachts as a solution to a variety of cruising and racing needs. The basic principle is the same as a self-tailing winch except that a 12V or 24V motor mounted underneath the deck drives the drum. Larger yachts are coming ever more popular in the cruising and racing markets. These larger boats carry more sail area and are increasingly sailed slightly shorthanded. The electric winch greatly reduces the effort required to trim and hoist these larger sails. They can be operated from the safety of the cockpit or next to the helm providing safer sailing for those on board. Extra consideration needs to be given to head space below deck and battery power but the rewards are generally worth it. There are models available with ‘rewind’ additional easing functionality which have a double stripper/feeder arm installed to ensure the line travels smoothly in both directions.

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Self-Tailing Winch vs Non-Self-Tailing Winch

Sailing winches come in two types: the self-tailing winch and the non-self-tailing winch.

So what are some differences that set apart the self-tailing from the non-self-tailing winch? Which type is the best to use?

Each of these winches has unique features that make it ideal for specific tasks.

What’s the difference, and why would you want to choose one over the other?

• Winches tighten the sail sheet more than a human can
• They turn clockwise, so wrap lines in a clockwise direction
• You don’t necessarily need winches in order to sail. If you need to, you can wait until ready.

In this article, we will compare self-tailing winch vs non-self-tailing winch .

Read on to learn their differences and how best you can use each type depending on the task. 

Self-Tailing Winches

Many standard winches do not have a tail jam, increasing the risk of cutting or injuring your fingers. Moreover, it exposes the winch operator to the hazards of the wire cable. 

Fortunately, the self-tailing winch helps fix these issues. It is open-ended, and the tail is rolled around the winch’s drum. These winches work by pulling up the tail while simultaneously cranking it up its drum. 

This eliminates the need for an extra person who would normally help pull the tail. Therefore, self-tailing winches are the best option if you plan to sail alone and need a winch that requires minimal effort.

When Is Self-Tailing Considered Useful?

If you plan to sail solo, you should consider getting a self-tailing winch to save energy and time. The beauty of these winches is that:

• They help control breast lines, especially in highly windy conditions. This ensures the cables have the proper tension.
• You don’t have to keep holding the line when sailing since the winch does that.

Advantages That Come With Self-Tailing

First, and most importantly, these winches give lone sailors much freedom. If you have been using non-self-tailing, turning to self-tailing will feel incredible. Since it holds the line and does so effectively, you do not need a lot of people to help keep things under control. 

Self-tailing is also considered much easier and safer for operation, as your hands are not in danger of being cut. 

These winches hold your line even after cranking it. We recommend clearing it off if you knock the rope loose.   

Disadvantages of Self-Tailing

Even though it has advantages and improves the overall sailing experience, self-tailing also features a couple of drawbacks. Primarily, it is relatively expensive when compared to non-self-tailing winches. So to enjoy the benefits of self-tailing, you will be required to spend a bit more.

Also, this winch usually needs stacking with the rope for the mechanism to work. Also, winch fairleads can sometimes cause foul lines if released rapidly, depending on construction or manufacturing design. Finally, the handlers can sometimes be at risk during operation as it can cause tearing or catching on the clothes or sails.  

Non-Self-Tailing Winches

If your aim is to capitalize on ocean winds for capacity, you might want to consider non-self-tailing. Although it can tighten sails, it can’t hold the rope independently. The advantage of this winch is that it can tightly pull the sail sheet and keep the line taut with ease. However, it will require at least two people if you want to have an easier time using it.

Cranking the drum until the line is taut helps optimize the sail sheet’s shape and utilize the wind, thus increasing the speed of the sails. In addition, the rough grip on the non-self-tailing winch allows you to wrap the line around it effectively and ensures the winch holds on to the cord when you tighten it. 

However, ensure you do not release the rope during the tightening process to avoid loose ties.

When Are Non-Self-Tailing Winches Helpful?

The following are some of the various uses of these winches:

• It can be used to channel more significant power as opposed to what a human can generate.
• The winches are great for controlling and handling halyards and sailing sheets. 
• They can help pull your boat or other big objects from the water.
• These winches are universal and can serve several other purposes as well. For example, they can haul halyards when affixed to the mast. 

If you are a beginner, non-self-tailing is more suitable than self-tailing. It is much easier to handle and requires somewhat less maintenance; hence more beginner-friendly.

Non-self-tailing also does not need active monitoring to ensure the tension on the rope is right. When pulling something big, there is no possibility that the line will slack and compromise its grip or hold on the item being pulled. 

Overall it is much simpler to use non-self-tailing and doesn’t require expert knowledge on tailing to know how it operates.

Disadvantages

The main drawback of this winch is that, at times, this type of tailing can be harmful as it can mess up the line and even break it. Moreover, the fast recoil can easily injure anyone nearby. 

The primary difference between the two is the drum in the non-self-tailing. The drum accommodates manual tailing and ensures there is necessary friction to the winch.

On the other hand, self-tailing functions differently — it uses a feeder arm and additional jaws slightly above the drum.

What Size of the Winch Should You Get for Your Boat? 

There are things you should know before choosing the right winch size. First, you have to be aware of how long your boat is and the sail area that requires the winch. If you intend on using a similar winch for different sails, go for the sail with the largest surface area to calculate the winch size.

It would help if you also considered the speed when getting a winch. There are two options here: 1-speed and 2-speed, the latter being the most preferred. The difference between these two speeds is crank speed. 

Turning the handle changes the speed: turning it one way switches it to 1-speed, and when you turn it in the opposite direction, it goes 2-speed. When you have multiple speed options, it lets you choose the ideal trim for sailing. 

If you participate in racing, you prefer trimming the sail right after a tack. This high speed allows it to do just that. But, if you plan on cruising around, you might not need the two-speed, although it is good to have it.

Can You Interchange Winch Handles?   

For all standard winches, you can interchange winch handles. The distinguishable feature when it comes to winches is the handle length and the locking mechanisms. Unfortunately, many winches get dropped overboard, so when you purchase one, ensure it will lock in. 

For all standard winches, you can interchange winch handles.

You may also buy the ones that float when they fall overboard. Then, if you are racing, you may not have time to stop and get it, but you can come back later and find it.

Can You Convert Any Winch to Self-Tailing? 

You may have wanted to get self-tailing winches, but you couldn’t, maybe because they are expensive! However, there are other budget ways to make your self-tailing winches. First, you can install winches. these are rubbers that hold the rope. It is the most cost-effective way of converting your winch.

You can also use a winch conversion kit. 

There are budget ways to make your self-tailing winches.

Finally, you can replace the winches with self-tailing ones.

The first option is usually the most preferred one because of the easy installation. You have to get the correct size because otherwise, it won’t work, and the building might get tricky. If you have the money, go for the second option and get the conversion kit. The final option is so much more expensive.

How Do You Load in Self-Tailing?

Step 1: decoupling the winch .

Start by unscrewing the central winch screw using a screwdriver. After it’s open, take out the self-tailing crown and the crank sleeve.

Step 2: Aligning the winch 

Locate the star wheel and place the winch perpendicular to the line.

Step 3: Getting the winch in position 

To have it secured correctly, drill holes and let them be held firmly by the nuts. The process involves ensuring milled holes accommodate adding sealing compounds. 

Next, fix the screws in the holes you drilled before and apply the sealing mixture close to the screws. Afterward, realign the winch to the holes, and set the washers and nuts to connect with the winch. 

We recommend using thread lockers to screw the nuts, ensuring they do not come loose because of the vibrations. Once done, you can screw the winch and put the doll back. 

Next is the installing and realigning of the self-tailing. The end should unfurl in the correct place as you are screwing it in so that it comes out the other end in the correct position. 

Lastly, screw in the main screw after placing the crank sleeve back. 

The next time you plan to go sailing, if you are wondering which winch is ideal for your voyage, remember these two factors:

• Self-tailing winches are an excellent choice if you are planning to make solo sailing trips since one person can handle them. 
• Non-self-tailing winches, on the other hand, are the better choice for beginners since they are easier to use. But you will likely need another person to use one.

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Self-Tailing Winches & How They Work!

Self-tailing winches hold the line while you crank the winch handle. This means you do not have to pull the excess line while the winch turns. This allows your second hand to be available for other things like holding on during rough seas.

This article is about self-tailing winches and how they work. Keep reading to find out more about them and the alternatives to self-tailing winches.

What Are The Advantages Of A Self-Tailing Winch?

A self-tailing winch will hold the line by itself. It has a slot at the top where you put the tail of the line. While you turn the winch, the line will tail itself. This allows you to have an extra hand free when winching the lines.

After using a non-self-tailing winch for years, switching to a self-tailing winch will feel amazing. Not having to deal with that extra line is a great feeling. You will wonder how you ever lived without these.

Self-tailing winches will also hold your line even when you are done cranking it. I still always recommend cleating it off just in case you were to knock the line loose, but that is up to you.

An important thing to remember when considering a self-tailing winch will be the size needed.

How Does A Winch Work On A Sailboat?

A winch is used to tighten the sails. This is done by wrapping the line around the winch and cranking it until it is tight. A winch will allow the sail sheet to be tightened a lot more than a human can tighten it. This will optimize the sail shape and harness the wind better, creating more speed.

The winch is a very important part of sailing. If you want to use the wind to its full capacity, then you need to utilize your winches. When I started sailing I never bothered to touch the winches. I just sailed without them and had a great time. You can do this as well until you are ready.

The winch will create more pressure on your lines causing the sail to tighten much farther than it would under normal human strength. Winches have a rough almost teeth-like grip that the lines will wrap around. This grip allows the winch to hold on to the rope and not slide when tightening it. If you let go of the rope it will loosen though.

A winch always turns clockwise, so remember to wrap your lines in a clockwise motion. If, you can remember this turn the winch with your hand before wrapping the lines around it. This will help remind you. After doing it for a while you will never forget it again. Follow the steps below for using a non-self-tailing winch.

How To Use A Non-Self-Tailing Winch

1. pull the slack out of the sheet, before wrapping it around the winch., 2. wrap the line around the winch in a clockwise motion, starting at the bottom., 3. after three wraps, pull more slack out of the line if you can., 4. insert the handle and grind/crank the winch handle., 5. while cranking the winch, tail(pull) the extra line out of the way to avoid override., 6. once it is the right amount of tight, cleat off the line., 7. remove the winch handle and store it securely., 8. if the sail is too tight, uncleat it and slowly let the line out. when the desired tightness is reached cleat it off again..

There are a few things to remember when winching. Be careful not to knock your winch handle in the water. There are thousands of lost winch handles at the bottom of the ocean. I always store it securely as soon as I cleat the line off. Most boats have a specific spot to store the handle.

Do not overlap your line on the winch. Each wrap should sit against the winch. Overlapping your lines will cause a tangled knotted mess or override that will cause serious problems for you.

I also do not always grind my winch with the handle. I will wrap the winch two times and pull it tight. Just wrapping the winch one or two times will allow you to pull the line easier. If you want the most speed then you will need to crank it with the handle. When I am just cruising I hardly ever use my winch handle.

If you want to make your life easier, I recommend using a self-tailing winch. Go to the next section to see what these are about.

What Size Winch Do I Need For My Sailboat?

To select the correct winch size, you will need to know the overall length of your boat and the area of the sail that you will be winching. If you plan to use multiple sails for the same winch, use the sail with the larger area for calculating winch size.

Another thing to consider when purchasing a winch is speed. The basic options are 1-speed or 2-speed. I have used both and I like the 2-speed winches. The difference is the crank speed. When you turn the handle one way it goes at 1 speed and if you crank the handle the other way it goes faster, which is the 2nd speed. Having a multi-speed option allows you to get the perfect trim for your sail.

In racing, they want to trim the sail quick after a tack. The higher speed helps them do that. If you are just going to be cruising the 2-speed is not necessary but it is nice to have when you want it.

Take a look at the diagram below to find out what size winch is recommended for your boat. Provided by andersen.com

Are Winch Handles Interchangeable?

Winch handles are interchangeable for all common winches. The main difference in winches is the locking mechanisms and the length of the handle.

You can normally purchase a winch handle that will lock in the winch or not. This is a great idea because so many are dropped overboard. You can also buy ones that are designed to float if they go overboard. During a race, you probably won’t stop to pick it up but maybe you can find it after the race.

The bigger the sails, the bigger the winch. The bigger the winch, the bigger the winch handle.

One of the best winches I have ever seen is the folding winch handle by EasySea. The handle never has to leave the winch. It folds down on top of itself making sure it is never in your way. Check out the video below to see how they work.

If you are a casual sailor or a circumnavigator I highly recommend this winch handle.

If you are not able to get one of these foldable winch handles, just make sure to secure your regular one in a safe place that is easy to access.

If you want to find out more about winches and how to repair them, click here! How to fix your winch in 12 steps!

Final thoughts.

I believe every sailor should be utilizing self-tailing winches. They make the sailor’s life so much easier and more organized. My first boat didn’t have them and it was such a hassle to use, that I rarely used them. Just do whatever makes you feel the most comfortable and don’t go out and spend thousands on new winches. Try looking for used ones if you want some and don’t have the money. Cheers!

Boatlifehq owner and author/editor of this article.

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The history of winches

• July 28, 2010

How many winches do you have on your boat? The answer is none. They're all capstans.

How many winches do you have on your boat? The answer is none. They’re all capstans. By  definition, a winch stores its cable on the drum, and it’s mounted horizontally. We’re familiar with Nelsonian sailors hornpiping their way around the capstan, weighing anchor, but the rest of the sail handling was done using blocks and tackles. The poor mechanical advantage and high friction they offered limited the size of the sails they could handle, hencethe many small sails seen on Tall Ships.

The winch has been in use for millennia. There are records, dating from the 4th Century BC, of winches being used to tighten cables supporting pontoon bridges, and also being used in construction. Looking at the capstan, it’s clear that – axis aside – little changed in the intervening 2,000 years. So hen did winches become so popular?

There is evidence of snubbing winches, geared 1:1 and turning only clockwise on a ratchet, in use on yachts in the late 19th Century, but the following extract from Douglas Phillips-Birt’s Rigs and Rigging of Yachts, 1954, confirms that sheet winches were around at the turn of the century.

‘Winches are not in fact a new piece of gear, though their extensive use in yachts of all sizes is a modern piece of design. And the best winches of the past seem to have been at least as good as the present day. Those designed by athaniel G Herreshoff in 1903 for the Reliance were handed down to Resolute in 1920 and then to Enterprise in 1930. Some of them may even have found their way on board Ranger six years later.’

Moray MacPhail of Classic Marine in Woodbridge said ‘There are photographs showing Herreshoff’s Whirlwind with winches in 1929. Sparkman & Stephens’ stormy Weather was also fitted with them when Olin’s brother Rod brought her across in 1935, winning the Transatlantic Race and the Fastnet Race before eading back to the States.’ Winches were common on larger racing yachts by the mid 1930s but didn’t become commonplace on smaller yachts until after WII.

These winches were more like capstans, operated using a lever in the base or at the top of the winch, like early Lewmar and Gibb winches. It wasn’t until 1959 that the modern top action winch was invented. Len Lewery started a company making Tufnol dinghy fittings in 1946 and he was joined by Leslie Marsh, a local plant hire operator. In 1950. They called the company Lewmar. Henry Shepherd, whose company made helicopter gearboxes for Westland, bought into Lewmar in 1959 and used his knowledge of lightweight aeronautical materials to develop the multispeed, top-action winch we recognise today.

It’s thanks to the power-multiplying winch that the simple Bermudan sloop rig has become so popular. Instead of many small sails, like you would find on Tall Ships, and rigs like ketch, yawl, gaff, smack or schooner, we now ave the power to control two big, powerful sails.

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Which Winch and Why?

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While there really isn't much to them, trailer winches are one of the most important and underrated pieces of equipment you own.

Whether you are replacing an old winch or installing a new one, the first thing you need to determine is its size. Winches are rated by weight capacity, not boat length. If you're not sure about your boat's gross weight, the boat manufacturer can provide you with that information. Be sure to add the weight of the motor and everything else onboard to get an accurate total weight. Round up if you're not sure.

The capacity of the winch you select should be rated on average at roughly 3/4 of your total gross weight. Different factors will affect this ratio. If you typically launch at steep ramps and/or have a trailer equipped with bunks as opposed to rollers, you should select a winch closer to the actual weight of the fully loaded boat. Gently sloped ramps and rollers create less resistance which will allow you to get away with a slightly smaller winch. The difference in cost between winch sizes is so negligible that there really is no excuse not to err on the high side when making your selection.

While the cost difference between different size winches of the same variety may be small, the difference between manual and electric can be fairly substantial. The choice is yours and it hinges mainly on how hard you want to work after a long day on the water.

The winch should be level with the bow eye.

Smaller manual winches are typically single speed, which means it has a single, fixed gear ratio. Simply put, a 10:1 gear ratio means that you need to crank the handle 10 times for the winch drum to turn once. A ratio of 20:1 means that you need to crank 20 times to turn the drum once. A lower gear ratio will work faster but will require more physical effort on your part. A higher ratio will require less effort but will take longer. Some of the higher-capacity winches will be available with dual speeds, which allows you to use a lower gear ratio to quickly get the boat onto the trailer and switch to a higher gear ratio when gravity and friction rear their ugly heads. The clicking sound you hear when you're winching the boat onto the trailer is the spring-loaded ratchet that prevents the boat from rolling backward when you let go of the handle. A very serious word of caution: if the boat starts rolling backward and the handle starts spinning, let it go. A broken wrist is much worse than a do-over at the boat ramp.

Winches are measured by weight capacity, not boat length.

Electric winches have a couple of advantages, the most obvious being that they do all of the hard work for you. Additionally, they can often be operated by either a wired or wireless remote, which makes it easier to launch and retrieve your boat. If you need more control when launching a larger boat or on steeper ramps, you may want to consider a winch with the "power-out option." Rather than simply free-spooling, power-out uses the motor in reverse to launch the boat in the same way it does to retrieve it, which offers you greater control when backing the boat off the trailer. Always keep the engine running on the tow vehicle when using an electric winch to reduce the strain on your battery, but be sure the parking brake is set or, better yet, have someone in the cab in the event the truck starts moving. You keep the truck running to avoid draining your battery with the winch because there are too many stories about someone not having enough juice to start the truck after using the winch for a long period of time. Also be sure to carry a spare handle so that the winch can be operated manually in the event of an electrical failure.

A tangled cable is guaranteed to cause trouble.

Now that you have selected your winch, it's time to mount it. Where you put it will depend on your specific boat and trailer. While they can often be bolted directly onto the trailer frame, sometimes it's necessary to install a mounting bracket in order for everything to line up properly. Pre-made brackets are inexpensive and easy to come by. The winch should be centered and straight on the trailer. A winch that is crooked or off-center will allow the cable or strap to load up on one side of the drum, which can cause all kinds of problems for you. The cable should wind onto the drum in tight, even rows. Make sure also that you have a straight, unobstructed line to the bow eye at all times and that the cable or strap does not chafe on the trailer frame when under load. The winch should be far enough forward to be able to pull the boat up snug with the bow stop or roller.

Steel cable or nylon strap? Nylon straps are essentially the same material as the seat belt in your car. They are generally easier on the hands and are fine for smaller boats. Cables are stronger than straps and better suited for larger boats. Cables can also be doubled by using a pulley block that will nearly double the weight capacity of the winch as opposed to a single line. Don't install more cable than you need, particularly on a manual winch. Every layer of cable on the drum robs you of a certain percentage of power. While this will not affect the weight capacity of the winch, it will make it harder to crank with each turn. Check your strap or cable for wear every time you use it and replace anything that is worn or frayed.

Trailer winches are designed for one purpose: pulling your boat onto the trailer. They are not designed to tie your boat down when trailering. Once the boat is winched into place, it should be secured to the trailer with a safety chain and trailer straps. When you are preparing to launch the boat, remove the safety chain and use the winch cable to prevent the boat from rolling backwards off the trailer while you are backing down the ramp. More than one captain has dumped his vessel onto the launch ramp as a result of this newbie mistake. You don't want to be that guy. This is especially important if your trailer is equipped with rollers as opposed to bunks and on particularly steep ramps. The problem with using the safety chain when launching is that if the boat does slide backward, it can snug up the chain, making it impossible to remove without winching the boat forward.

While it may not be the sexiest piece of gear you own, a well-maintained trailer winch may be your best friend at the end of the day, so choose it wisely and treat it well.

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Choosing Winch Power

Winch Definition

Figure1 illustrates the principle of that magnificent rotating lever, the winch. The winch handle is the lever arm, the barrel axis is the fulcrum, and the load is applied at the barrel face. Divide the distance between fulcrum and face into the length of the handle, and the result, in an ungeared winch, is the amount of your advantage. Internal gearing in two-and three-speed winches in effect lengthens or shortens the lever arm so you can take up slack quickly when the load is light, then switch gears for greater leverage as the load increases.

Fair lead Essential

Several turns with the hauling line around the barrel is the winch equivalent of reeving; the grip of the turns allows force to be applied. The hauling part should form a 95-to-100 degree angle with the winch drum, or a "wrap" (override)—either or both parts becoming bound up in the turns. Very bad news, especially if you need to get the line off the winch in a hurry. When the hauling part's lead isn't fair, a turning block is added between the load and the winch (Figure 2). The tailing part is, well, tailed, either by a crew member or one of a variety of "self-tailing" gizmos (Figure 3).

Figure 1: The winch is a rotating lever with the fulcrum of the winch face and force applied by the handle. Internal gearing compounds the leverage. In this case, the advantage is four to one.

Figure 2: The turning block next to the stanchion feeds the line to the winch at a good fair angle. Note the shockcord running from the turning block's becket to the lifeline; this arrangement keeps the block from falling down and fouling when the line is slack.

Figure 3: A self-tailing winch ingeniously eliminates the need for a human tailer. Note that the lead is above horizontal - a wrap is sure to happen.

Efficiently Applied Force

These things are expensive, so you might as well get some performance out of them. To begin hoisting or sheeting-in a sail, leave the handle off for the moment, make your turns (three or four), and begin taking up slack by hand. Pull with your palms away from you to get a full range of motion as you work your arms in alternation. Keep your hands well away from the winch in case a sudden load slips the turns. When the slack is out, the person with the handle plugs it in and begins cranking while you tail, or you can do both jobs yourself, slowly and carefully with a normal winch, slick as you please with a self-tailing model. For maximum cranking efficiency, get your weight over the handle and keep it there. Use both hands when possible. When you're running a capstan use a straight-arm, palms-on-handle technique to take up slack, then switch to the low and slow crooked-arm technique as you take a strain.

Winches, unmatched in their combination of speed and power, predominate aboard today's shorthanded high-tension vessels. Sheets can be controlled by blocks alone or by blocks compounded by a winch, depending on how much strain the weather is giving. Running backstays and the halyards for full batten or gaff sails are two more candidates for block-and-winch teamwork. An extra part or two on a purchase means you can go with a smaller winch that will receive less strain. A modern sail plan comprises a few large, very powerful sails. The intent is to produce greater efficiency and less complexity than the traditional approach of more and smaller sails. But the modern sail plan concentrates forces to such an extent that the winch is the only practicable way to make things work. In determining adequate winch size, work generated by the sails is the obvious consideration. But work generated in the winch itself is nearly as significant. How big then does a winch have to be to overcome both the pull of the sails and its own drag? The answer starts with how much effort is acceptable for you. For most people, (15,9 kg (35 pounds) is a comfortable maximum sustained load. Most production boats have maximum loads more like 20 kg (45 lb). That's why it's so hard to sheet that genoa in. Bear in mind that we're talking about loads that you'll only encounter going to weather in a stiff breeze—a relatively infrequently encountered situation, but one in which boat motion, fatigue, and discomfort hamper physical efforts. It's a situation in which you're most appreciative of adequate mechanical advantage. By investing in a worst-case-scenario power level, you also get extra easy sail handling in lighter airs. A final bonus is that the large drum size means more surface area, and thus more gripping friction on the rope for every turn you make around the drum. So, fewer turns to put on and remove, and better control when easing slack around the drum.

Calculating Winch Power

To calculate desirable sheet winch power, figure your foretriangle area (the area bounded by the forestay, foredeck, and mast); multiply it by 6 (or 29 if you figure your foretriangle area in square meters), a number that accounts for friction and sail force; and divide the answer by 35, your desired maximum input force is 15.9 kg (35 lb). The answer you get will be the rated mechanical advantage in second gear (low gear) of your optimally powered winch.

For example, start with a foretriangle of 28 square meters (300 square feet): 300 x 6=1,800. Divide that by 35 and you get 51.4; you want a winch with about 50:1 advantage. If you felt comfortable with more or less than 15.9 kg (35 lb), your optimum winch would be somewhat less or more powerful.

If you want to know what the maximum handle load on your current winch is likely to be, start with the same Sail Area x 6 (or 29) number, then divide by the rated mechanical advantage through chandlers and manufacturers). The result will be the maximum hand load in pounds (or kg). If we stay with our 28-square-meter (300-square-foot) foretriangle and assume a winch with a typical 40:1 advantage, we get 1,800-40=a typical 45-pound load 795-40=19.9 kg). Too high!

Efficiency Alternatives

If the cost of a big enough winch is too high, or if you're driving a race boat and the extra weight is a consideration, there are four other ways to get more from your winches: Brawn Keep a very large, muscular, and willing individual around to do your winching. This is the traditional option for racing craft. 2. Handle Leverage: A winch is a form of lever, with leverage from internal gearing compounded by leverage from the handle. For example, a(305 mm (12 inch)  handle will provide 20% more leverage than the 254 mm (10-inch) handle your winch is probably fitted with now. This advantage is somewhat qualified by the slowness and awkwardness of swinging the handle through a wider arc, but many people hardly notice the difference, and love the ease. Also consider getting a two-hand handle, either 254 mm or 305 mm (10 or 12 inches) long, so you can make better use of the leverage you have, getting the strength of both arms completely into the effort.

Compound Advantage By combining a winch with a block and tackle, you compound your mechanical advantage. So a 40:1 winch hooked to a 4:1 block and tackle yields 160:1, minus friction. For quick, coarse take-up at low loads, you can use the block and tackle alone, hooking up the winch for power and refinement. This setup is the rule for mainsheets, but it's not generally a good idea for staysails; blocks hanging from sail clews can be really crew-killing deck floggers. On large traditional boats, with clews well above deck, it's still the viable option that it's always been. Another old practice is to put a block on the head of a sail, for a 2:1 advantage, to be compounded by the halyard winch. With a 50% lower load on the winch, you can use a much smaller, cheaper winch. This generates savings that offset even the long-term costs of the 50% longer halyard. These days 2:1 halyards are popular on boats with full-batten mains. The extra power means you can get the sail up faster and with less effort, before putting the halyard on the winch.

Combine a winch with a block and tackle to compound mechanical advantage. Fairleads, Big Blocks, & Lubrication By using a minimum number of large, high-quality, strategically placed turning blocks, you reduce friction. By being one of the minuscule minority of sailors who strip down and lubricate their winches on a regular basis (at least once a year), you reduce friction by a lot more. Whether your winches have help or work by themselves, protect your investment with regular, careful inspection and maintenance; it's amazing how many people just crank 'em till they freeze up, treating them like convenience items instead of well-bred tools.

Brion Toss — The Complete Rigger's Apprentice

Writer/rigger Brion Toss became obsessed with knots in the late 1960s, a preoccupation that led him to sailing and rigging. He has rigged everything from tiny daysailers to huge square riggers. Equally at home with modern or traditional rigging, Brion continues to pursue the challenge of designing The Ideal Rig—that unique combination of details best suited to a particular boat and its particular crew. Brion has written three books that should be in every sailor's library: The Rigger's Apprentice, Rigger's Locker, and The Complete Rigger's Apprentice. When not writing, Brion can be found at Brion Toss Rigging, his shop in Port Townsend, Washington.

HARKEN RADIAL® WINCHES

Safer Operation No moving parts on top Better Control Patented Radial® grip drives wraps down for smooth, controlled easing Longer line life Shaped Radial® grip surface reduces wear on the line cover Easy Maintenance Corrosion-proof bearings snap securely onto the center stem and never need to be greased Incredible Weight Savings High-load bearing materials and composites in noncritical areas make Radials® ultra-lightweight—only carbon racing winches are lighter Easy installation A patented mounting system makes installation a fast, one-person job—you don’t even have to remove the drum

Links Brion Toss Website Harken article: Winches Magnify People Power

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Racing Terms: Glossary for Newer Sailors

If you didn’t grow up sailing, how long did it take you to figure out what sailors mean when they say “put the bow down?” After hearing from newer sailors that the language of racing is hard to decipher, we decided to create a glossary of racing terms and phrases.

We chose racing terms and phrases that are likely to be obscure to newer sailors. To keep the list manageable, we did not include basic sailing terms, words defined in the racing rules, or racing terms applicable to big boats.

Our list is generally organized alphabetically, with a few related terms clustered.

Racing Terms and Phrases for Newer Sailors

Related Content

Sailing Terms from L-36.com – comprehensive list of terms, not limited to racing terms Nautical Language – Expressions from Our Seafaring Roots – not limited to racing terms

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Sailing Terms from L-36.com

Nautical Language: Expressions from Our Seafaring Roots

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What is a self-tailing Winch? – Detailed Guide

Embarking on the enchanting journey of sailing opens up a realm of possibilities, blending productivity with camaraderie. This captivating pastime not only provides relaxation but also instills a profound sense of accomplishment as you navigate the waters, commanding your vessel. Central to this maritime pursuit is the self-tailing winch, a pivotal tool ensuring seamless control over your boat.

In the forthcoming exploration, we delve into the intricacies of self-tailing winches, unraveling the essential role they play in the sailing experience. Join us as we demystify the nuances of this indispensable device, empowering you to harness the full potential of your sailing adventures. What is a self-tailing winch? Let’s navigate this question together.

Our Best Self Tailing Winch

About self-tailing winch.

Boats which are about 30 to 40 feet long can exert a pulling force of up to 2 tons. A self-tailing winch can be a very useful tool in this condition. It provides you with the force which is required for controlling heavy boats when there are strong wind conditions.

Most winches require at least two people to help operate them. However, self-tailing winches can easily be operated by a single person. Therefore, they are quite ideal when you are sailing alone. Spinning the winch around is referred to as grinding whereas tailing means pulling and tightening the rope. A winch uses these two actions together to help pull a winch line.

Winches generally require two people to perform these two actions. However, self-tailing winches can execute both tailing and grinding in one go. This is basically a capstan winch which comes with a vertical drum and an open end. The winch line is wrapped around the vertical drum. It also comes with a detachable handle which should only be attached when the winch is being used.

Factors to consider self-tailing Winch:

If you’re looking for a good self-tailing winch then don’t just go for the priciest option on the market, make sure you actually consider the important things. Following are some of the important factors that you need to consider:

Before you pick a self-tailing winch for yourself, make sure you consider the size chart to pick one that truly meets your needs. Make sure that the self-tailing winch you choose, perfectly fits in your boat and allows you to easily handle your sail.

2. Sail area

Make sure you calculate the sail area before you decide on a winch. This helps you determine how much area of the sail will the wind exert force on. The greater the size of the sail, the more force will be exerted and so you need to pick a winch to match the force capacity. If you buy a smaller size winch, it will end up getting damaged and you won’t even be able to control the sail.

3. Sailboat length

Another important factor to consider is the sailboat length as this is very important in determining the self-tailing winch capacity that you will need for your boat.

Lastly, make sure you keep in mind the purpose or application for which you are getting the self-tailing winch. Self-tailing winches can also be used for controlling the breast lines or spring lines of the boat. Also, make sure you also consider how frequently you will be using the winch.

How to install a self-tailing winch?

Follow the steps mentioned below in order to easily install a self-tailing winch.

• Begin by soaking the wincher in hot soapy water in order to wash as well as soften it. This will help set the wincher in place inside the boat.
• Take the drum off the winch by taking out its top screen and undoing the screws using a wrench.
• Now, when you slide in the wincher, it will fit perfectly and it will also be quote tight. Make sure it is as tight as possible because this will ensure that it holds onto the tail tightly and does not budge from its position.
• Put the top drum back in its place and put the rubber edge back on the drum’s top. You can do this using a screwdriver. The winch has now been successfully installed.

How to convert a winch into a self-tailing winch?

You can use any one of the approaches mentioned below in order to convert a winch into a self-tailing winch:

1. Install a winch

The most affordable method and also the easiest way to go about this is to install a winch. Make sure you have the right size because otherwise you will not be able to install it. Winches are just rubber conversion rings so they can easily be converted into self-tailing winches.

2. Winch conversion kit

Another way to do this is to use a Winchmate or a winch conversion kit. It is slightly more expensive than the previous approach but it is still a good option. These kits come with their own top drums and feeding arms. This winch allows you to easily convert your winch into a self-tailing winch.

3. Replacement

If the two approaches mentioned above do not work for you, you will have to just replace the winch with a self-tailing winch. This is the most expensive option.

Sailors will find self-tailing winches to be quite useful as they make it easier for them to control the sail. We hope this article helped you understand what is a self-tailing winch. If you have any comments or questions, make sure to put them in the comments section below.

FAQ’s

1. how to size a self-tailing winch.

Answer: You can either find the total length of the area of the boat or just the length of the sailing area. Make sure you pick a winch with a capacity that is greater than your requirement.

2. What are the advantages of a self-tailing winch?

Answer: Self-tailing winches allow you to sail your boat alone and they are also quite safe to use.

3. What is the purpose of a self-tailing winch?

Answer: A self-tailing winch provides you with the power to handle the wind on the sail which is way too much for anyone to handle on their own.

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What is a Windlass on a Boat? – Marine Windlass & Its Details

Written by J. Harvey / Fact checked by S. Numbers

Payload management is one of the most difficult things to do on a marine vessel. That is why everything you find on board is there for good reasons; this includes boating equipment such as the windlass. But what is a windlass on a boat?

The windlass is a device used for holding, deploying, and retrieving the anchor with relative ease compared to by hand . We’ll take a look at important facts about it, such as windlass meaning and how it works.

Table of Contents

1. Windlass definition

2. meaning – what is a windlass used for, 4. types of windlass and functions, how does a windlass work, frequently asked questions, marine windlass and its details.

In general, the windlass is a device using a pulley mechanic to raise or lower an object, especially those with significant weight. A windlass on ship or boat, in particular, is used for deploying and retrieving the anchor.

What does windlass mean on a vessel, and how significant can it be?

For starters, deploying an anchor requires an appropriate rode length, which should be 4 to 7 times the depth of water. The rode needs to be unwound vertically in a careful manner and takes a lot of time to do. Not to mention the anchor chain is rather heavy—ranging from 2,500 to 50,000.

With the help of an anchor windlass, the task of winding and unwinding rode is much simpler and less prone to mistakes. This boat part is especially useful when longer lines or heavier anchors are used.

Illustrating how it works can be complicated because of the need to refer to a few anchor windlass parts’ name. These are its basic components.

• Chain wheel – also known as a gypsy. It’s where the rode is wound, so by manipulating the chain wheel via a clutch, you’ll be able to hoist the anchor and raise the rode.
• Capstan – also a rotating drum where the line could be wound but usually oriented vertically. It may be used together with a gypsy in bigger windlasses.
• Anchor rode – a line with an anchor connected at the end. It can be a thick rope or a chain.
• Chain stopper – serves as a brake and holds the line in place.

Anchor windlass operation can be manual or electric. Whereas the former requires muscle power to turn the crank, the latter can be operated with the push of a button.

Types of windlass may also be categorized into horizontal and vertical, where the difference is in the orientation of its axle. Regardless of type, anchor windlass function remains largely the same, although each design does have its advantages.

One of the biggest concerns with horizontal windlasses, despite their overall superior performance, is that they are exposed above the deck. While they are encased for protection, being at the mercy of the weather elements is still concerning.

Vertical models, however, don’t have this issue, considering they’re installed below the deck. However, this particular position makes it harder to access the motor and gearbox.

Refer to my description on the basic components of a ship windlass above and a diagram to visualize their construction.

To put it simply, the anchor rode should be wound around the gypsy. This way, when you turn the clutch, the axle will turn the chain wheel, bringing in or extending the anchor rode. In some cases, its entire length may go through other drums or even a capstan to make it easier to handle heavier loads.

When deploying the anchor, you’ll need to turn the chain wheel to lower it gradually. However, a windlass for small boats may use a free-fall system, meaning that you’ll only have to throw the anchor into the water and let gravity do the rest of the job.

Once the anchor has been deployed to the desired depth, you’ll need to hit the chain stopper to make sure that the rode will not continue to unwind.

Why do they call it a windlass?

Aside from looking at the windlass definition, analyzing the name can give us a better idea of what it is specifically “why is it called a windlass?”.

To elaborate, two recognized etymologies for the word are the archaic Nordic word “vindāss”, and the Middle English word “wyndlas” or “wyndase”, all of which mean “to wind a pole”.

What does a windlass look like?

The windlass winch is a device of considerable size on the deck of smaller boats near the bow. It has a characteristic cylindrical shape protruding from its main structure.

Another telling feature of the windlass is the anchor rode running from it toward the bow, which connects to the anchor. Even the windlass anchor system beneath the deck can be identified this way.

What is the difference between a capstan and a windlass?

In their simplest forms, the main difference is that a capstan has a vertical axle while the marine windlass has a horizontal one. However, modern designs have led to the emergence of vertical windlasses as well.

Another point to consider is that windlasses are more complex structures compared to the capstan’s simple drum-like appearance. The capstan may also be part of a windlass. In these cases, the windlasses are either operated via pneumatic or hydraulic powers.

What is a windlass on a boat? Now you know enough to answer anyone else asking this question. You can now explain the basics of different types of windlasses, be them manual or electric. All that’s left is to get on a windlass sailboat and experience using it for yourself.

What other boating equipment do you find difficult to understand and use? Tell us about them in the comments section below.

Remember to boat safely.

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