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A boat that gets off the starting line in a good position and has good upwind speed is probably going to be near the top of the fleet at the first weather mark. That’s easy to say but challenging to do, especially the starting part. However, if you learn to follow a script or plan that makes the starting routine mechanical, you’ll discover that each start becomes better, and your starts, overall, become more consistent. The good news is that plan can be followed wherever you start on the line and whatever the breeze.
How do you know when you’ve managed a good start? Simply put, you’ve gotten off the line in the front row with competitive speed so you can take advantage of the first shift. It’s cool to be able to blast off the line with a boatlength or two lead and have the fleet over your shoulder. But even just one boat hanging on your weather hip eliminates your opportunity to tack on the first header and, as a result, a good start is wasted.
The race committee’s goal is to set a line basically perpendicular to the wind so that no single boat has an advantage, regardless of where it starts. However, the wind almost always shifts, and seemingly does so at the last minute. If the line is fairly short and/or one end is favored by 5 degrees or less, starting in the middle becomes an excellent choice, giving a conservative starter the opportunity to take advantage of a shift from either side of the course. The fastest college sailors often start near the middle of the line, knowing that they can protect the left side of the course or tack and consolidate the right.
However, in big fleets—50 boats or more—or on a line where one end is heavily favored, say, 15 to 20 degrees, then starting closer to the favored end becomes more advantageous. I emphasize closer , as it can be risky to start right at the favored end because everyone’s trying to start there. Starting a third of the way up or down from the favored end is much less risky and can make it easier to get off the line.
Remember, the angle of the wind relative to the starting line determines which end is favored, and unless the course to the first mark is way off square to the wind or the starting line is skewed by more than 30 degrees, the course to the first mark shouldn’t have any effect on where you start.
While there are several different methods in checking which end is favored, unless I am sailing in a small fleet or on a small inland lake, I use the compass. If the line is short and the fleet is small, head into the wind and note which end of the line the bow points closer toward. That’s the favored end. On longer lines with more boats and in more-extreme conditions (very light or very heavy winds), the compass is much more accurate. Take a compass heading while sailing down the line and compare it to your head-to-wind reading. If more or less than 90 degrees (which tells us if the line is square), not only will you know which end is favored, but also how much it’s favored. In addition, once you have the line compass bearing, you can double check which end is favored anytime, anywhere (and away from all the traffic on the line) just by heading into the wind.
If you have GPS technology, ping the ends of the line once the line is set. Luff head-to-wind, close to the committee boat, moving very slowly so it’s easy to get a good reference. At the leeward end, set up outside the line, again head-to-wind and moving slowly, where it’s easy to gauge exactly when on the line. Once you have confidence in your pings lining up, managing the last minute becomes much easier.
I focus on one approach for every start. Therefore, I know exactly how I’ll set up, no matter where I want to be on the line. The only variable becomes the timing.
Without a GPS (and to double check your GPS settings), rely on line sights. Start at the weather end, on starboard tack, closehauled, loosely trimmed and moving slowly, four to five boatlengths below the line. Start taking line sights with something onshore through the leeward end of the line. Ideally, you’ll have one at four to five lengths, three lengths and two lengths off the line, as well as the final shot right down line. Those early “safe” line sights are crucial in gauging the speed and timing to the line, because invariably the sights down the actual line become tough to maintain in the last 10 seconds, when the fleet is lined up. Sometimes a line sight to weather through the committee boat by the forward crew can be a valuable check in the last 10 to 15 seconds.
Check for current at all spots on the line, recognizing that there could be current at different speeds and different angles at each end. Practice the laylines at each end to gain confidence in the approach angle to the line, and especially where you ideally would want to start. Finally, practice your actual maneuverability and the speed required to maintain control of your boat. It’s important be able to recognize when you are too slow to be able to head up or bear off, even when using your sails to help control the boat.
While many sailors develop a series of different approaches to draw on for starts in different conditions in different size fleets and for different positions on the line, I focus on one approach for every start. Therefore, I know exactly how I’ll set up, no matter where I want to be on the line. The only variable becomes the timing. The two most common approaches are starboard luffing, where boats line up several lengths below the line several minutes before the start, and the port-tack approach, which is my favorite.
With the port-tack approach, come in a boatlength or two below the bulk of the fleet; most boats will be luffing on starboard. Depending on the breeze, the waves and the size of the fleet, I’ll look for and then tack into a hole on the line close to one minute before the start, depending on the conditions and fleet lineup. In some ways, this approach might seem risky because you’re sailing on port tack toward a group of starboard tackers. However, remember that one of the most important goals of the starboard tack boats is to develop a hole to leeward. If this hole is big enough and left open, it’s an open invitation for a port tacker.
One of the keys to a successful port-tack approach is the tack into the vacant hole. This tack should be slow and controlled so that once around and onto starboard, your bow will be slightly behind that of the boat to weather. Speed after the tack should be slow so that you are immediately in a position to become the leeward controlling boat. Leave yourself the opportunity to accelerate and not be dangerously close to the line. This is one of the major differences between the starboard and port-tack approaches. During the port-tack approach, you are attacking the starboard boat’s position, while those using the starboard approach are usually trying to defend.
If you’re the approaching port-tack boat, you must sail all the way through the tack and onto your starboard closehauled course before you can assume your new, leeward boat rights. And you must give the weather boat room and time to fulfill its new obligation to keep clear. Once the port tacker has completed his tack to starboard, the now windward starboard tack boat must begin to keep clear and assume the port tacker has now become the leeward boat with rights.
What if there isn’t a hole at the spot where you want to tack? In that case, you probably wouldn’t want to start in that pileup of boats anyway. Instead, sail down the line a bit farther until a more inviting hole presents itself.
Obviously, the starboard-tack boat will not just sit and wave you on into the hole they have been working hard to create. They should defend by bearing off toward you as you approach. If the hole is small, or the tack from port to starboard becomes rushed, the port tacker most likely will become discouraged with that spot and sail up the line looking for the next hole.
Once you know how you’ll approach the line, the remaining variable is timing. Ideally, you’ve practiced your timing in that five or 10 minutes before the start. When I set up with the port-tack approach, I determine how long it takes to get from the leeward end pin to my spot of choice on the line, unless the line is super long. I sail back and forth several times in order to determine how long it takes, and then add 10 to 15˛seconds for the tack. Usually, I try to complete the tack onto starboard by 55 to 60 seconds before the start, depending on the breeze and the size of the fleet—the lighter the breeze, the lumpier the wave state; the larger the fleet, the earlier the tack. If we know it takes 40 seconds to get to that spot, we’d leave the pin with 1:45 left before the start.
Once in position, control your hole and the boat to windward. This doesn’t demand any sort of attack that requires the use of the rulebook. It requires you to maintain a position where your boat can dictate when the windward boat can trim in and accelerate. Position your bow slightly behind the windward boat’s bow but still in clear air. Your course should be just above closehauled with your sails luffing. Use mainsail trim to help maintain this bow-up position. Try to maintain a boat’s width or slightly less between you and the weather boat. If the weather boat begins to trim and accelerate, trim, gradually head up, and force it to slow down. As long as they’ve been provided the opportunity to keep clear of you, they will also need to luff.
At the same time, work hard to stay off the boat to leeward, if there is one. Constantly watch the leeward boat’s position and speed. If they accelerate and sail higher toward you, react by doing the same to maintain a safe distance—hopefully as much as two to three boat widths. This hole to leeward is key in allowing you to sail slightly below closehauled, in first gear, in order to accelerate in the five to 10 seconds before the gun.
In the last 15 to 20 seconds, the GPS pings and/or line sights are important gauges that will give you confidence in your positioning. Pay close attention to your placement relative to the lineup of boats close by. Especially watch the two to three boats to windward, always trying to maintain the same slight bow-back position throughout the entire starting approach. That will give you a runway to accelerate into so you can begin to trim before the competitors above do. If any of those boats to weather trims and begins to accelerate, trim immediately and match its speed, no matter where it is on the line or the time before the gun. If even one of those boats gets the jump and ends up on your wind after the gun, it can be game over.
One tip is how to slow the boat when you find yourself dangerously close to being over early. Our instinct tells us to turn down, away from the line. However, bearing away usually means burning up the valuable hole to leeward and, in fact, you end up accelerating right into it. Instead, head up to near head-to-wind. The boat will slow more quickly and slow the weather competitors. You’ll buy more time and save distance to the line. Most important, you’ll build the hole to leeward and close the distance to windward.
Especially for the first minute after the start, boatspeed is king. Fight the urge to point as high as possible until the boat has sailed through all the gears and is at top speed. Definitely do not pinch. A common mistake is to trim the sails too tightly, too quickly. If the sails are trimmed right to the closehauled position before the boat has the time to sail through the gears, the boat will load up and slide sideways. Talk about burning up the hole to leeward!
On our boat, we divide all the responsibilities where, in the last 15 seconds, I am simply steering when and where the crew indicates. If we’re sailing with three, the jib trimmer keeps track of the line and our position relative to the boats to weather. That person has control of our final timing and dictates exactly when to pull the trigger. The middle person keeps the time and looks aft and to leeward for boats approaching late on port or behind and low on starboard. Our boat is anything but quiet in these last seconds, but this constant influx of information allows me to concentrate entirely on boatspeed.
Rules | ||
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Racing Rules of Sailing for 2013-2016; Version 6 | December 2015 | |
Racing Rules of Sailing for 2017-2020 | August 2017 | |
Racing Rules of Sailing for 2021-2024 | December 2020 | |
Prescriptions | ||
Australia | July 2017 | |
Canada | November 2019 | |
Great Britain - RYA has declined to grant a license for prescriptions and cases. | November 2019 | |
New Zealand | July 2017 | |
United States | February 2017 | |
Cases | ||
World Sailing Cases | February 2022 | |
World Sailing Q&As | March 2022 | |
Match Race Calls | January 2020 | |
Match Race Rapid Response Calls | October 2018 | |
Team Race Calls | December 2018 | |
Team Race Rapid Response Calls | February 2016 | |
CAN Cases | October 2017 | |
RYA Cases | November 2019 | |
US Appeals | November 2019 | |
Manuals | ||
World Sailing Judges Manual | December 2019 |
Courtesy of SailZing Editor – Racing Terms: Glossary for Newer Sailors
Racing Terms: Glossary for Newer Sailors | If you didn’t grow up sailing, how long did it take you to figure out what sailors mean when they say “put the bow down?” After hearing from newer sailors that the language of racing is hard to decipher, we decided to create a glossary of racing terms and phrases.
We chose about 80 racing terms and phrases that are likely to be obscure to newer sailors. To keep the list manageable, we did not include basic sailing terms, words defined in the racing rules, or racing terms applicable to big boats.
Our list is organized alphabetically. Italicised words have separate definitions. If in doubt, you can always ask your local expert here .
Angle of incidence | The angle between the and the chord line of the sail. | |
The direction and speed of the wind as measured from a moving boat. | ||
Tacking away from other boats to obtain . Often used for starting situations. | ||
In starting, a boat that sails on starboard tack down towards leeward boats on starboard to try to create room. Barging violates Rule 11 of the Racing Rules of Sailing. | ||
Flattened | A sail that has been made flatter (less ) with the use of sail controls. | |
Starboard blocker | Tactical positioning to windward of a starboard boat. Decreases the chance that a port tack boat will establish a position. | |
Kicker, kicking strap (UK term) | Block and tackle (or hydraulic ram on big boats) to control the horizontal angle (rise) of the boom. | |
Sailing downwind with the wind blowing over the leeward side of the boat. | ||
Depth, fullness | The depth of a sail, measured from the chord line to the deepest point. | |
Strategy to sail from puff to puff while sailing on the as much as possible. | ||
Loose cover, tight cover | Tactical positioning to stay between your opponents and the next mark. | |
Sail control to tension the leading edge ( of the sail. Sometimes incorrectly called downhaul. | ||
Tack and duck | Maneuver to escape being by a boat close to windward, by bearing off to create separation, then tacking and ducking. | |
Draft forward/aft | The point of maximum depth of a sail, measured in percentage of distance from the leading edge.. | |
Basic puff response technique. | ||
The profile of the leading edge of the sail, either flat or rounded. | ||
Line bias | Starting line: the end of the line that is further upwind. Finish line: the end of the line that is further downwind on an upwind finish. | |
Advantaged side | The side of the course that gets you to the next mark faster, due to more wind, favorable shifts, less current, smaller waves, etc. | |
Allowing boat to head slightly closer to the wind during a puff. This is an additional component to the technique | ||
Laying | A boat that is sailing on the toward a mark. | |
Bow down, low mode | Sailing upwind at a heading slightly further off the wind than . | |
Make or lose gauge, making or losing trees | A measure of gain or loss against another boat. With a hand-held compass, the change in the compass bearing from one boat to another over time. Without a compass, gains or losses can be measured by the change in the angle between the boats to a distant shore reference, such as trees. | |
Shore effects | Wind shifts due to geographic features, such as nearby shore, points of land, obstacles. | |
Helm balance, weather helm, neutral helm, lee helm | Helm refers to the tiller. Helm balance refers to the pressure felt on the tiller when sailing in a straight line. Helm balance is often shortened to , as in weather helm, lee helm, neutral helm. | |
Keep it on the wind, point | Sailing close-hauled with the sail trimmed in and the heading such that the sail is neither or . | |
Concept that upwind progress can be visualized as a series of lines (ladder rungs) perpendicular to the direction. Also applies downwind. | ||
Clear lane | A path you can sail on one tack (either upwind or downwind) without encountering other boats or disturbed air. | |
Layline | Upwind: the line that lets you sail close-hauled to the windward mark (or a start/finish line mark) without pinching. Downwind: the line you would sail to a leeward mark at your optimum angle. | |
Safe leeward position | Sailing upwind with a boat positioned just behind and to windward. The boat ahead and to leeward is advantaged, since the windward boat is not in clear air. | |
Distance or angle a boat drifts off course due to the sideways force of the wind. | ||
A boat that is laterally separated from other boats is said to have , and will gain the most from a favorable shift, but lose the most from an unfavorable shift. | ||
The profile of the trailing edge of sail, either flat, open, or closed | ||
A wind shift that allows you to change heading without changing sail trim. Upwind, a lift lets you sail closer to the windward mark and a header (knock) makes you sail further away from the mark. Downwind, a lift makes you sail further from the mark and a header (knock) lets you sail closer to the mark. | ||
Transit | An aid to judging distance to the starting line, by finding a shore reference that aligns with an end of the line. | |
The tack (or gybe) that lets you sail the most distance without getting to the . Sail the long tack first is a strategy rule of thumb. | ||
Backwind, bubbling | 1) The leading edge of a sail 2) Heading up toward the wind (luffing up) 3) The bubbling or fluttering of a sail when sailing too close to the wind. | |
A less skilled sailor. Some experts advise starting next to a marshmallow. | ||
Bending the mast from a straight line, either fore and aft or laterally. Mast bend is used to shape the sail. | ||
Rake forward/aft | The fore or aft angle of the mast compared to a horizontal reference. Often measured by the distance from the tip of the mast to the transom. Mast rake affects steering balance and sail power. | |
Wind that is shifting back and forth around an average direction. | ||
Sail control to tension the foot of the sail. | ||
A boat that has sailed past the and thus sails extra distance to the mark. | ||
Wind that shifts in one direction, either progressively, or one time during a leg. | ||
Sailing close to windward of a boat to prevent it from tacking. | ||
High mode | Sailing upwind at a heading closer to the wind than . | |
Velocity | Slang term for velocity. | |
(Not “rum” line) | The straight-line course from one mark to the next. | |
Using weight to roll the boat, minimizing rudder use and accelerating after the sail crosses. | ||
Strategy to sail in wind that is undisturbed by other boats. | ||
Angle of heel | Sailing with the optimum angle of heel. The design of the boat (its “lines”) dictates the optimum heel angle. | |
Strategy to minimize distance sailed downwind by staying on the gybe that points you closer to the mark. | ||
In phase, out of phase | Strategy to minimize distance sailed upwind by staying on the tack that points you closer to the mark. If you sail the lifted tack and change tacks when the opposite tack becomes lifted, you are in phase with the shifts. | |
Unbalanced legs | A course in which the is significantly longer than the opposite tack. A skewed course is not square to the wind. | |
A boat on starboard tack (S) crosses just ahead of a port tacker (P) and then tacks as P is ducking her. If S does this right, she will end up with control, to windward and slightly ahead of P. | ||
Separation of air flow from the leeward side of a sail. Also, separation of water flow from a foil (centerboard, lee board, rudder). Stalling occurs when the angle of attack of the sail or foil is too large for the flow velocity. | ||
When sailing close-hauled, the angle between the boat’s headings on port and starboard tack. Normally roughly 90 degrees but changes by +/- 10 or more degrees in light and heavy wind. | ||
Tactical maneuver to tack away from a boat ahead and then tack back to obtain clear air or more wind. | ||
Shroud tales, luff tales, leech tales | Shroud telltales – ribbons or yarn placed on the side stays (shrouds) to indicate the Luff telltales (or sail tales, woolies, ticklers) – ribbons or yarn placed behind the of the sail to indicate airflow over the sail. Leech tales – ribbons placed on the trailing edge (leech) of the sail to indicate air flow. | |
Expression to help new sailors sail . Move the tiller toward the that are fluttering. | ||
Control to change the sheeting angle of the mainsheet. | ||
The direction and speed of the wind over the water, as measured from a stationary reference. | ||
Twisted, untwisted | The change in from top to bottom of a sail. | |
Soak low, heat it up | Downwind technique to maintain boat speed and maximize downwind . Head up in a lull (heat it up) and head down in a puff (soak low). | |
Tensioning the vang so that the boom moves to leeward but not up when easing the mainsheet in a puff. | ||
Wind shift, righty, lefty | Veer – a shift to the right when facing upwind. Back – a shift to the left when facing upwind. | |
VMG | Measure of the rate at which you are making progress directly upwind or downwind. | |
Velocity header/lift | A change in the direction due to an increase or decrease in the velocity (not direction) of the . | |
Sailing at the heading that maximizes the , upwind or downwind. | ||
Let the sail breathe, ventilate | Expression that reminds us to avoid over-trimming the sail. Applies in light air, in a lull, or when the boat is going slower than it should for the wind speed. . | |
Wind vane, wind finder | Rotating wind indicator at the top of the mast. |
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IMAGES
VIDEO
COMMENTS
BARGING AT THE START. Perhaps the most frequent breach of the Racing Rules of Sailing (RRS) occurs when boats "barge" at the start. This is especially true for starts with lots of novice and less-experienced sailors. The term "barging" isn't used in the 2021-24 RRS and there is no specific "anti-barging" rule. So, the relevant rules that ...
Barging is the most common foul that happens on the starting line, yet there is no "anti-barging" rule in the Racing Rules of Sailing. Barging is when an ins...
The Racing Rules of Sailing are in their essence simple, with six pages providing the bulk of what you must know. However, at times the rules collide with ... Barging and the Racing Rules of ...
To learn more, view the following video from UK sailmakers on the issue of barging. It shows the camera boat and a boat ahead, both likely sailing above the layline, and a third boat, a Beneteau 36.7 (sail # 52464) reaching-in to pass below the starting mark (usually an RC boat)(i.e. barging) and take a spot on the line.
Barging is the most common foul that happens on the starting line, yet there is no "anti-barging" rule in the Racing Rules of Sailing. Barging is when an inside windward boat takes mark room at a starting mark. And why isn't the boat entitled to room? That is clearly stated in the preamble to Part C of Section 2 of the rule book.
Close Hauled - A boat sailing as close to the wind direction as possible Head-to-Wind - A boat pointed straight into the wind. Sails will be luffi ng. Inside - A boat positioned between the mark and another boat Outside - A boat positioned with another boat between them and the mark Proper Course - The course a boat would sail to get to the ...
Barging is the most common foul that happens on the starting line, yet there is no "anti-barging" rule in the Racing Rules of Sailing. Barging is when an inside windward boat takes mark room ...
Three "General Limitation" rules from Section B limit changes of course by the right-of-way boat. These are, in order of importance, Rule 16.1, Changing Course, Rule 14, Avoiding Contact, and ...
BASIC RACING RULES OF SAILING EXPLAINED Visual Interactive Webinar In this webinar, North Sails experts Zeke Horowitz and Brian Hayes explain and demonstrate basic rules according to the US Sailing "Racing Rules of Sailing". ... "Barging" and Rule 13) 50:04 - Mark Room (Weather and Leeward Mark) 1:22:00 - Open Water (Room to Tack ...
RULE INFRINGEMENT: You are officially racing and therefore bound by the racing rules from your preparatory signal (4 minute signal) until you have cleared the finish line. If you break the rules you are required to do two complete circles (720o). You may continue to race after getting out of the way of other boats and completing your turns.
Sailing World Racing Editor Mike Ingham explores the rules to know for a clean start. By MIke Ingham. March 7, 2022. More: How-To, racing rules of sailing, rules, Sailboat Racing. SUBSCRIPTIONS.
However, in big fleets—50 boats or more—or on a line where one end is heavily favored, say, 15 to 20 degrees, then starting closer to the favored end becomes more advantageous.
Barging is the most common foul that happens on the starting line, yet there is no "anti-barging" rule in the Racing Rules of Sailing. Barging is when an inside windward boat takes mark room at a starting mark. Why isn't the boat entitled to room? That is clearly stated in the preamble to Part C of Section 2 of the rule book.
An Inside and Overlapped boat (Green A) within three boat-lengths of the mark has the Right-of-Way. In general, any Overlapped outside boat (Red B) must Keep Clear and give room to any boat between them and the mark. A boat coming into the mark on Port Tack (Red D) must be able to complete its tack without obstructing the progress of an ...
The first sentence of new rule 28.1 states the three elements of sailing a race: "A boat shall start, sail the course and then finish.". The previous title of rule 28 was "Sailing the Course;" the new title includes all three elements. The addition of the term "then" clarifies that boats must do the elements in the order listed.
The specifi cs of the sailboat racing rules are mind-numbingly detailed and written to cover all potential incidents. DON'T WORRY - You do not need to know everything about the rules to go ... No Barging at Start A Leeward boat has Right-of-Way at the start and is allowed to sail above her Proper Course to shut-out any boat heading into the
Note: The term 'barging' is not used in The Racing Rules of Sailing. The term is commonly used to refer to the situation where a leeward boat is holding her course and a windward boat sails between the committee boat and the leeward boat and either hits the leeward boat or forces her to bear off to avoid contact. ... Racing Rules of Sailing ...
Barging : In starting, a boat that sails on starboard tack down towards leeward boats on starboard to try to create room. Barging violates Rule 11 of the Racing Rules of Sailing. Bladed out: Flattened: A sail that has been made flatter (less camber) with the use of sail controls. Blocker: Starboard blocker: Tactical positioning to windward of a ...
In World Sailing case 146, a boat protests another boat for barging near the race committee boat as they were approaching the starting line to start racing. ...
The Racing Rules of Sailing (RRS) governs the sport of sailboat and sailboard racing. It is revised and published every four years by World Sailing.
Though large-scale Ultimate Collector Series models are usually spectacular, I tend to favour minifigure-scale designs, like 75192 Millennium Falcon and 75313 AT-AT. These famous vehicles are ideal for premium recreations, in scale with minifigures, but there is potential for more. 75397 Jabba's Sail Barge is perhaps the most appropriate example and LEGO Star Wars fans have long discussed this ...