Free Ground Shipping for PowerKnobs and PowerWheels

Edson Marine

  • my account Sign in Register Gift Certificates

Autopilot Tiller Arms

Write a review.

Autopilot Tiller Arms

Tiller arms are custom machined and non-returnable.

For non-round bores contact Edson to order. 

Maximum file size is 20000KB , file types are pdf, jpg, jpeg, heic

  • Create New Wish List
  • Product Description

Each Autopilot Tiller Arm is custom machined for a tight fit to your rudder-post.  Please email our  Customer Support  or give us a call at (508) 995-9711 to order. Prior to ordering, please complete the tiller arm worksheet, which requires detailed information on the attachment method and a rudder-post measurement to an accuracy of 0.001. The worksheet and information on Bronze and Aluminum Autopilot Tiller Arms can be found below. Please read through EB380 , our installation worksheet for details on each securement method. 

To order a Tiller Arm, fill out EB373-Tiller Arm Data Sheet , and email the worksheet to [email protected] . We will review your worksheet and contact you to finalize your order.

IMPORTANT - Edson highly recommends installing an autopilot independent of the primary steering system. This provides for a redundant/backup system in the event of steering gear or cable failure—in effect an “Electronic Emergency Tiller”. Edson’s Autopilot Tiller Arm allows the autopilot to be mounted independently of the primary steering system and should be used to attach an autopilot to the rudder-post.

IN NO CASE SHOULD THE AUTOPILOT BE ATTACHED DIRECTLY TO THE QUADRANT OR RADIAL DRIVE WHEEL!

download-pdf-sm.png

For Tiller Arm Pricing click here

bronze-tiller-arms-sm-.jpg

Edson's Bronze Tiller Arms are used for cruising boats and boats with stainless or bronze rudder-posts.

  • Specifically designed for use with linear drive autopilot systems. 
  • Keeps Autopilot independent of Steering System. 
  • Makes Autopilot an “Electronic Emergency Tiller” 
  • Available in 10” (254 mm) and 15” (381 mm) lengths for use with most of the autopilots on the market today. 
  • 1” (25 mm) wide slot to accept ball end fitted with 1⁄2 ” or 12 mm diameter pins. 
  • Accommodates rudderposts to 5” (127cm). 
  • Custom pin sizes are available upon request. 
  • Constructed of Manganese Bronze or Anodized Aluminum. 
  • Variable attachment points to allow for proper positioning of the attachment point of the autopilot.

aluminum-tiller-arms-sm-.jpg

Edson's Aluminum Tiller Arms are used for racing boats or boats with Aluminum or Composite rudder-posts. 

  • Designed for racing boats where weight savings is critical. 
  • Solid Cast Aluminum Construction 
  • Black Anodized for durability 
  • For rudder-posts up to 7” (175mm) in diameter.

aluminum-tiller-arms-j-boats-sm-.jpg

Edson's Aluminum Tiller Arms for J-Boats

Because of their unique rudderpost shape, J-Boats require a specially shaped tiller arm. It is designed to clamp onto the fiberglass rudderpost directly above the Radial Drive Wheel. For J-Boats from 35’ to 53’. Wt. 5.8 lbs (2.6 kg). 

Autopilot Tiller Arm for J-37, J-40, J-42, J-44, J-46, J-105, J-120, & J-130 - Order #836AL-J-12 

Autopilot Tiller Arm for J-160 - Order #836AL-J-160

Tiller Arms are available for all J-Boats. Use #926AL if your boat is not listed. Contact Edson for more information if yours is not shown.

How to video for installation for J-Boat tiller arm

tiller arm sailboat

Measuring Your Sailboat Rudder Post Diameter

In this video, we will go over how to properly use a digital c...

tiller arm sailboat

J Boat Tiller Arm Installation

Edson autopilot tiller arms can fit almost any rudder post, an...

Related Products

From the same Collection

Chrome Tiller Head Fitting for 1" Rudder Post

Chrome Tiller Head Fitting for 1" Rudder Post

Bronze Tiller Head Fitting for 1" Rudder Post

Bronze Tiller Head Fitting for 1" Rudder Post

Chrome Tiller Head Fitting for 1.25" - 1.50" Dia. Rudder Post

Chrome Tiller Head Fitting for 1.25" - 1.50" Dia. Rudder Post

Bronze Tiller Head Fitting for 1.25" - 1.50" Dia. Rudder Post

Bronze Tiller Head Fitting for 1.25" - 1.50" Dia. Rudder Post

Stainless Mounting Arm

Stainless Mounting Arm

Light Arm Receivers for Vertical Mounts

Light Arm Receivers for Vertical Mounts

Wing Light Arm Receiver for Vertical Mounts

Wing Light Arm Receiver for Vertical Mounts

Light Arm Receivers for Aft Angled Mounts

Light Arm Receivers for Aft Angled Mounts

Stainless GPS Mounting Arm – 3” Mounting Base

Stainless GPS Mounting Arm – 3” Mounting Base

© 2024 Edson Marine All rights reserved. | Sitemap

S/V Violet Hour

Sailing adventures in the pacific northwest.

S/V Violet Hour

Technical Series: DIY Install of a Below-decks Autopilot in a Tight Space (C&C Landfall 38), Part 2 of 3

In part 1 I wrote about some of the planning and decision making process that went into researching an autopilot system for our boat. In this part we’ll get into the technical details of installing a tiller arm and autopilot drive shelf.

The most difficult part of the job, and one that is custom to every boat, was figuring out how to attach a below-decks autopilot drive to the rudder post. Our boat, a C&C Landfall 38, has a pinched stern and very limited space around the Edson radial drive. The autopilot drive is a surprisingly large piece of equipment – about 3 feet long at full extension, and the motor housing is about 8” tall by 9” long.

The attachment of the end of the ram to the steering system is very important because the drive can exert strong forces on the system (650 lbs of peak thrust with the Type 1 unit). The proper way to attach to the rudder shaft is a tiller arm – typically about a 10” long piece of cast bronze that is clamped around the rudder shaft, above or below the radial drive or quadrant. Edson and PYI’s Jefa manufacture them, as well as Buck-Algonquin.

The only problem was our Edson radial drive was already using up nearly all the vertical space available on our rudder stock – of about 4.5”, it uses up 3.75” (the concave disc model). Standard tiller arms are a minimum of 1.75” in height, too large to fit in 1.25” of space.

I looked at all the available tiller arms, measuring and re-measuring, but none of them would fit. Next I considered more drastic options like whether I could move the radial drive up or down to make more space (I couldn’t), and options like flipping the radial drive or buying a new one with a slimmer profile. I talked to people at both Edson and Jefa and both were very helpful, but ultimately this was a very difficult problem – the C&C Landfall 38 simply was designed with a very confined rudder shaft space.

A slimmer Edson radial drive or a Jefa drive with integrated tiller arm might have worked, but would add a substantial amount of work to the project. A radial drive swap isn’t trivial, and each option also would’ve changed the height of the steering cable track, which would require re-engineering the idler shivs to be at an appropriate angle / height (otherwise the steering cable will chafe).

Why Not Attach to the Quadrant or Radial Drive?

You might wonder why go to all this trouble to fit a tiller arm when you could just attach the autopilot ram directly to the quadrant or radial drive. In short, because Edson strongly recommends against it. They say the radial drive was not designed for those kind of forces, and it could result in catastrophic failure.

That said, in my research I found many sailors who attached to the radial drive and even professional installers who did so. In some boats it’s the only option. Nevertheless I really wanted to adhere to Edson’s advice because of the tough conditions I expected to use our autopilot in. The steering system is one of the critical systems of a boat, a life safety issue.

The logic of having redundancy through a tiller arm is persuasive – if the tiller arm explodes, you can still hand steer. And if the radial drive or quadrant explodes, you can still steer via autopilot. If you attach the autopilot directly to the radial drive and that explodes, you have a serious, potentially life-threatening problem.

Custom Tiller Arm

Therefore I next turned to getting a custom tiller arm fabricated at a local machine shop. I sketched up a design based on the idea of an “offset tiller arm” which I had seen Buck Algonquin manufactures (but none in sizes that would fit my needs). An offset tiller arm clamps around the rudder post and then has the arm descend (offset) about an inch or two so it would clear the rim of my radial drive.

tiller arm sailboat

Design for our custom tiller arm

It’s worth noting if you’re reading this and also have a C&C Landfall 38, fitting the tiller arm was only possible because I don’t have a fuel tank below the radial drive as in typical installations (a prior owner removed it).

The trickiest part was finding the right machine shop to work with. Although there are many machine shops in the Seattle area, some of them primarily do large industrial jobs and don’t want to take a small, time-consuming job with a boater. Fortunately I found one that had experience making tiller arms before (Wilson Machineworks on 15th Ave).

The tiller arm we designed together is made of steel with a welded on arm. The center clamp is bored for a 2 3/8” rudder shaft with a 1/4” keyway, and bolted on with 3/8” bolts in tapped holes.

IMG_20190322_122437

Even choosing the position of the keyway was challenging. The traditional spot would be the forward edge (0 degree position), but the linear drive must be installed at a 90 degree angle to the tiller arm, so this would mean the linear drive would have to be transverse in the boat’s stern.

Our boat’s stern is fairly narrow at the stern, and in my measurements I saw there would barely be enough space to fit the drive in a transverse (port-starboard) installation. That location also would have encroached on some of the storage space of our lazarette, and storage on a cruising sailboat is precious. Therefore I ended up installing the linear drive at the stern transom, oriented pointing forwards, with the tiller arm at about a 110 degree position (near perpendicular to the forward-aft line).

This worked well, but careful measurements must be taken in advance – the linear drive must be within 5 degrees of a flat plane with the tiller arm, and must be the correct distance from the tiller arm to have full range of motion. I ended up having very close install tolerances – clearances of only 1/4” – 1/2” in some places!

tiller arm sailboat

Mounting the Linear Drive Unit

The linear drive rests on a 3” x 4” base which must be attached to a strong, secure part of the boat. All of the push / pull thrust forces will be transferred to this base. Typically a fiberglass shelf is built, tabbed onto the hull, because it’s rare to have a convenient bulkhead in exactly the location you need to mount the drive base.

In my case I needed to build a shelf in a pretty tight space at the stern of the boat. Because the drive arm needs to be in a plane with the rudder gear, I also had to get this shelf as low to the hull as possible, which meant leaving only about 1-2” below the shelf for squeezing my hands into when attaching the thrubolt nuts.

tiller arm sailboat

I built the shelf from 3/4” outdoor-rated birch plywood. If you have easy access to affordable marine plywood that would be an even better way to go. I also considered G10 epoxy board, but it’s quite expensive and wood is also easier to work with considering I needed to contour the edges to fit hull irregularities. I coated the plywood with epoxy for extra longevity (the shelf shouldn’t be regularly wet anyway, since the autopilot is not supposed to be installed in a wet location).

I first made a cardboard prototype of how the shelf would fit into the hull. This process was fairly tricky and painstaking because the hull is a curved surface, and there were tricky angles to work out as well as ensuring proper height, distance and clearance of the autopilot drive arm. I test fit the drive arm on the cardboard shelf several times, and test fit it again after building the plywood shelf.

tiller arm sailboat

After I was sure everything would line up, I fiberglassed the plywood shelf to the hull using 6oz fiberglass cloth. Prior to laying the fiberglass cloth I filleted the 90 degree joints with West System GFlex. GFlex is a strong, flexible peanut-butter consistency epoxy. You could opt to make a similar edging compound yourself using epoxy and colloidal silica additive, but I already had GFlex on hand and it was convenient for my process.

I placed 5-6 fiberglass cloth layers on the two hull attachment points, using overlapping layers of increasing cloth size. After 24+ hours to cure, I test fit the linear arm again and drilled the four thrubolt holes for the base. After attaching the linear arm, I was relieved and elated to find that everything had adequate clearance and proper range of motion!

tiller arm sailboat

This was by far the hardest part of the autopilot install, but it was worth it to know it was done right and would provide a very strong mount and attachment to the steering system that will last as many years as it’s needed.

[Note: I later discovered this shelf wasn’t built strong enough! See the next post in this series to find out the design flaws and how I fixed it.]

tiller arm sailboat

2 thoughts on “ Technical Series: DIY Install of a Below-decks Autopilot in a Tight Space (C&C Landfall 38), Part 2 of 3 ”

' src=

So helpful! Thank you I will pass on to Victoria who is hoping to install the same on her boat High Voltage.

' src=

I purchased a Vision II binnacle and while that process was ongoing I Interestingly enough I had a conversation with the late Rob Ball at Edson regarding attaching the tiller arm to the radial. He explained there is no issue with this approach and Edson has done it. He mentioned having a sleeve where you bolt thru the radial.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Notify me of follow-up comments by email.

Notify me of new posts by email.

tiller arm sailboat

Sailboat Tiller: A Comprehensive Guide to Steering Your Vessel

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 18, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

tiller arm sailboat

Short answer sailboat tiller:

A sailboat tiller is a lever used to steer a sailboat by connecting it to the rudder. It allows the sailor to control the direction of the boat by manipulating the position of the tiller. This essential component provides direct and manual steering control, commonly found on smaller sailing vessels.

Introduction to Sailboat Tiller: Everything You Need to Know

Are you looking to set sail on a thrilling nautical adventure? If so, then understanding the intricacies of a sailboat tiller is of vital importance. A sailboat tiller serves as the vessel’s steering mechanism, connecting the skipper to the boat’s rudder and allowing for smooth navigation through strong winds and turbulent waters. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve deep into all things related to sailboat tillers – from their history and construction to their proper usage and maintenance.

A Brief History

The concept of using a tiller as a means of steering can be traced back centuries. Dating back to ancient times, civilizations such as Mediterranean Greeks and Phoenicians utilized primitive forms of tillers made from sturdy pieces of wood or bamboo. These early sailors understood that controlling their vessels’ direction was essential for survival during long voyages across vast oceans.

Over time, advancements in technology allowed for the refinement of sailboat tillers. During the medieval era, sailors began incorporating more sophisticated mechanisms like pivoting mounts and connections between the rudder and tiller. By the 17th century, wooden rudders became prevalent, with oak being favored due to its strength and durability.

Construction and Components

Modern-day sailboat tillers typically come in two primary materials: wood or lightweight composites like fiberglass or carbon fiber. Wooden tillers offer timeless beauty while maintaining sturdiness but require regular maintenance to prevent weathering or rotting. On the other hand, composite materials provide enhanced durability without compromising on weight.

The main components of a sailboat tiller include:

1. Tiller Head: Located at the aft end near the cockpit area, it connects directly to the top portion of the rudder stock.

2. Tiller Extension: Attached at an angle perpendicular to the main tiller, it allows sailors to steer without having to stand right at the tiller. This is especially useful during intense maneuvers or when adjusting sails.

3. Tiller Connection Hardware: Consists of various robust hardware pieces like swivels, brackets, and bolts that help secure the tiller onto the rudder stock, ensuring a tight connection for precise steering control.

4. Tiller Rope or Bungee System: Sailors often employ a rope or bungee system to maintain tension on the tiller while sailing upwind or in gusty conditions. This ensures that the tiller stays in place, reducing strain on the skipper.

Proper Usage and Techniques

Mastering sailboat tiller control requires practice and understanding of proper techniques. When holding the tiller, it is essential to have a relaxed grip allowing for ease of movement while maintaining full control over steering adjustments. Remember to always face forward with both feet firmly planted on deck for stability and balance.

To turn left (port side), push the tiller away from yourself; conversely, pulling it towards you will result in a right turn (starboard side). Understanding how different movements affect your vessel’s course – whether large distinct turns or subtle adjustments – is vital for navigating through confined spaces such as marinas.

Maintenance Tips

Ensuring your sailboat tiller remains in excellent condition requires regular maintenance and care:

1. Inspection: Routinely check for any signs of wear or damage on the tiller head, extension, connections hardware, or rope/bungee system. Address any issues immediately to prevent further deterioration.

2.Cleaning: Depending on its material (wood or composite), clean your sailboat’s tiller using appropriate methods and products. Wooden tillers may benefit from occasional sanding and revarnishing to maintain their aesthetic appeal and structural integrity.

3.Storage: Properly store your sailboat’s tiller when not in use to protect it from harsh weather conditions that could lead to warping or cracking. A protective cover can be employed for added safeguarding.

A sailboat tiller is the fundamental connection between you, the sailor, and your vessel’s ability to navigate through treacherous waters and gusty winds with precision. By understanding the history, construction, usage techniques, and maintenance tips associated with sailboat tillers, you can embark on unforgettable maritime adventures with confidence and finesse. So hoist those sails, grab hold of that tiller, and let your sailing dreams set sail!

How to Use a Sailboat Tiller: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

Ahoy, landlubbers! Are you ready to set sail on the open seas and experience the thrill of sailing? Well, before you hoist those sails and catch the wind’s whisper, it’s crucial to familiarize yourself with the most important tool at your disposal: the sailboat tiller.

The sailboat tiller is like a captain’s rudder, steering you towards new horizons and adventures. This essential piece of equipment controls the movement of your sailboat and allows you to navigate through the water with confidence. But fear not! Using a sailboat tiller is simpler than tying a sailor’s knot.

Step 1: Feel the Tiller in Your Hands When gripping the tiller, you’ll notice its smooth wooden or metal surface beneath your fingers. Embrace this connection between man and machine – for it is through this tangible bond that you’ll commandeer your vessel. Take a moment to savor this kinship before moving on.

Step 2: Stand Tall at Stern Now that you’ve acquainted yourself with your trusty companion, navigate towards the stern (the back) of your sailboat. It is from this vantage point that you’ll exert your authority over wind and waves.

Step 3: Assess Your Surroundings Before maneuvering the tiller, survey your surroundings like an experienced seafarer. Keep an eye out for other boats bobbing nearby, any pesky shallows lurking beneath calm waters, or any potential obstacles that could disrupt an otherwise majestic voyage.

Step 4: Push or Pull? Once confident in your surroundings, endeavor to establish whether pushing or pulling will determine your ship’s course. When nearing crew members who are eagerly awaiting their chance at assisting with navigation duties (or simply hoping for direction), please refrain from poking them with the tiller-end. Remember, camaraderie is key!

Step 5: Master the Art of Gentle Steering With your intentions clear and your path charted, it’s time to put theory into practice. Begin by gently moving the tiller in the desired direction, as an accomplished captain would steer her ship through stormy seas. Avoid rash movements that may jolt passengers or cause them to spill their noble cups of tea – a trait becoming of any seasoned sailor.

Step 6: The Wind Holds All Secrets As you gain confidence in steering with finesse, take note of the wind’s whispers as they dance through the sails. As if engaged in a secret dialogue with nature itself, learn to interpret its messages and adjust your course accordingly. Become one with these gusts of fortune, and you will undoubtedly become a master sailor.

Step 7: Embrace Trial and Error Remember that Rome wasn’t built in a day, just as skillful seamanship isn’t acquired overnight. Be open to making mistakes and learning from them in true nautical spirit. Practice makes perfect – or at least gets you closer to it!

So there you have it, future sailors! With this step-by-step guide on using a sailboat tiller, you now possess the knowledge needed to embark on your seafaring adventures. May your voyages be filled with calm breezes and breathtaking sunsets that leave even Poseidon himself envious!

Common Sailboat Tiller FAQs Answered: Your Ultimate Resource

Are you a sailing enthusiast who has many burning questions about sailboat tillers? Look no further! In this comprehensive blog post, we will dive into the most common sailboat tiller FAQs and provide you with all the answers you need. Consider this your ultimate resource for all things sailboat tillers!

1. What is a sailboat tiller?

Let’s start with the basics. A sailboat tiller is a mechanism used to steer a sailboat. It is usually a long handle attached to the rudder or directly connected to it, allowing sailors to control the direction of their boat.

2. How does a sailboat tiller work?

A sailboat tiller works by transmitting the force applied by the sailor to the rudder, which then changes the direction of the boat. When you push or pull on the tiller handle, it moves in one direction or another, causing the rudder to move accordingly and alter your boat’s course.

3. What are some advantages of using a sailboat tiller instead of a wheel?

Ah, an excellent question! Using a sailboat tiller has several advantages over using a wheel. First and foremost, one can have better feel and feedback when steering with a tiller. This allows for more precise control and maneuverability in challenging conditions.

Moreover, tillers are generally considered simpler and require fewer moving parts than wheels. This simplicity translates into easier maintenance and potential cost savings.

4. Are there different types of sailboat tillers?

Yes indeed! Sailboat tillers come in various types depending on their design and construction materials. The most common types include wooden tillers (often made from teak or ash), fiberglass composite reinforced ones (more lightweight), carbon fiber (high performance), and stainless steel variants (durable but less common).

5. How long should my sailboat’s tiller be?

The length of your sailboat’s tiller depends on several factors, such as the size of your boat and personal preference. As a general guideline, tillers for smaller sailboats tend to be shorter, usually between 24 and 36 inches. Larger boats may require longer tillers to provide enough leverage and control.

6. Can I upgrade or modify my sailboat’s tiller?

Absolutely! Sailboat tillers can be customized to fit your specific needs and preferences. Some sailors opt for ergonomic handles for added comfort, while others may choose to extend or shorten the tiller based on their sailing style. Just remember that any modifications should maintain the structural integrity of the tiller and not compromise its functionality.

7. How do I best maintain my sailboat’s tiller?

Maintaining your sailboat’s tiller is crucial for its longevity and performance. Ensure regular inspections for cracks, splits, or signs of wear and tear in wooden or composite tillers. For wooden versions, applying a protective finish like varnish can help prevent water damage.

Keep all moving parts lubricated and check for any loose connections if you have a removable tiller extension system in place. Cleaning regularly with mild soap and warm water will keep it looking its best.

There you have it – comprehensive answers to some of the most common sailboat tiller FAQs! Armed with this newfound knowledge, you’re now equipped to conquer the waters with confidence. So hoist those sails high and steer your way towards sailing success using your trusty sailboat tiller!

Essential Tips and Techniques for Handling a Sailboat Tiller

Handling a sailboat tiller requires finesse, skill, and an understanding of the nuances of sailing. Whether you are a seasoned sailor or a beginner, mastering your handling techniques is crucial for navigating smoothly through the waters. In this blog post, we will explore some essential tips and techniques to help you become an expert in sailboat tiller handling.

1. Understand the basics: Before diving into advanced techniques, it’s important to familiarize yourself with the basic principles of sailing. Understanding concepts such as wind direction, sail trim, and rudder control will lay a solid foundation for your tiller handling skills.

2. Maintain a relaxed grip: Many sailors tend to hold the tiller too tightly out of fear of losing control. However, this can lead to overcorrections and jerky movements. Instead, strive to maintain a relaxed grip on the tiller handle – imagine holding a bird that you don’t want to scare away.

3. Use subtle movements: Contrary to popular belief, steering a sailboat should not involve aggressive or forceful movements. Instead, focus on making small adjustments by gently moving the tiller left or right. Subtle inputs allow for better control and responsiveness while maintaining stability.

4. Adapt to changing conditions: Sailing conditions can vary greatly from calm seas to gusty winds. As such, it’s crucial to adapt your tiller handling accordingly. During light winds or flat water conditions, use smooth motions and gentle touches for precise steering. In contrast, when faced with strong winds or choppy seas, be prepared to apply more force while keeping your movements controlled.

5. Stay balanced: Maintaining balance is key when it comes to successful tiller handling. Be mindful of how your body weight transfers as you steer – leaning too far in any direction can affect your boat’s stability and maneuverability.

6.Trust your senses: While it’s important to pay attention to instruments like wind indicators and boat speed, relying solely on these can compromise your ability to feel the boat’s response. Trust your senses – the sound of the wind, the tension in the sails, and the way the water moves around your rudder. This connection will help you anticipate changes and make adjustments intuitively.

7. Practice makes perfect: Becoming proficient in sailboat tiller handling requires practice! Head out on the water as much as possible to refine your skills. Experiment with different techniques, challenge yourself by sailing in various conditions, and seek feedback from experienced sailors. Remember that being a master at tiller handling is a continuous learning process.

In conclusion, mastering sailboat tiller handling involves finesse, adaptability, and practice. By understanding the basics and employing subtle movements while maintaining balance, you can confidently navigate through any sailing condition. Trust your instincts and let your senses guide you towards becoming an expert in sailboat tiller handling. So hoist those sails and set off on a path to mastering one of sailing’s most essential skills!

The Advantages of Using a Sailboat Tiller: Why You Should Consider it

Title: The Advantages of Using a Sailboat Tiller: Why You Should Consider it

Introduction: Embracing the age-old tradition of sailing has always been a captivating choice for adventurers, nature enthusiasts, and even those seeking an escape from the chaos of modern life. While advancements in technology have introduced various steering mechanisms over the years, the classic sailboat tiller remains a beloved and timeless option. In this blog post, we delve into why using a sailboat tiller carries numerous advantages that make it an appealing choice for sailors of all levels.

1. Connection with your Vessel: One of the most enchanting aspects of sailing is establishing a profound connection with your boat and the elements around you. By utilizing a sailboat tiller, you are granted an irreplaceable physical connection to effortlessly navigate your vessel through wind and waves. It’s as if your movements become one with the boat’s response, allowing you to hone your sailing skills while feeling every gust personally. This intimate relationship between sailor and craft fosters unparalleled confidence and control on the water.

2. Enhanced Maneuverability: Unlike mechanical systems such as wheels or electronic controls, sailboat tillers offer superior sensitivity for navigating waters both tranquil and tempestuous alike. With even the subtlest touch on a properly balanced tiller, you can instantly determine changes in direction or course adjustments. This responsiveness enables nimble maneuverability, essential when navigating tight channels or evading potential obstacles swiftly. Feel like an oceanic acrobat as you effortlessly pivot through sharp turns or gracefully glide through narrow passages – all thanks to your trusty sailboat tiller.

3. Simplicity is Key: In a world often dominated by complex technologies, embracing simplicity can be truly refreshing – enter the humble yet reliable sailboat tiller. Its straightforward construction means minimal maintenance requirements compared to intricate wheel-based controls or motorized alternatives that may suffer electrical failures at inconvenient times. With a sailboat tiller, you can wave goodbye to unexpected technological glitches and focus on enjoying the timeless art of sailing.

4. Cost-Effective Solution: Whether you are a seasoned sailor or just embarking on your nautical journey, managing expenses is always a consideration. Opting for a sailboat tiller proves advantageous in terms of cost-effectiveness. The simplicity of this steering mechanism translates into fewer parts that can break or wear out, reducing repair and replacement costs significantly. Additionally, due to its durability and minimal upkeep needs, investing in a high-quality sailboat tiller ensures long-term savings while maintaining the authentic sailing experience.

5. Harmonious Aesthetics: Beyond practicality, aesthetics play an undeniable role in our love affair with sailboats. The elegantly curved woodwork of a traditional tiller adds a touch of timeless charm to any vessel. Their graceful presence compliments the natural surroundings and matches perfectly with the classic vibes associated with sailing adventures. Choosing a sailboat tiller elevates not only your sailing experience but also the visual appeal of your boat – allowing you to enjoy both style and substance as you glide through picturesque horizons.

Conclusion: The enchantment lies within the simplicity – opting for a sailboat tiller unlocks numerous advantages that go beyond steering your vessel gracefully through vast oceans or serene lakes. By forging an intimate connection between sailor and boat, enhancing maneuverability, simplify maintenance routines, offering cost-effective qualities, and enriching aesthetics; the loyal companion that is the sailboat tiller truly captivates those who seek both functionality and undeniable charm when embarking upon their maritime adventures

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Your Sailboat Tiller

Title: Mastering the Art of Troubleshooting Your Sailboat Tiller with Finesse

Introduction: Sailing has always held a profound allure, empowering adventurers to embrace the vastness of the open water. Yet, every sailor knows that even the most captivating journey can be momentarily interrupted by pesky issues. In this blog post, we will delve into troubleshooting common problems that often plague sailboat tillers, equipping you with expert advice and a touch of wit, so you can navigate the waters seamlessly.

1. The Case of Unpredictable Steering: Picture this – you’re confidently sailing towards the horizon when suddenly your sailboat’s steering becomes as unpredictable as a mischievous imp! If your tiller seems to have developed a mind of its own, fear not; we’re here to help. Possible causes: – Loose Connections: Inspect all connections between your tiller and rudder for signs of looseness or wear. Make sure they are securely fastened. – Misaligned Rudder: A misaligned rudder can cause erratic steering behavior. Double-check its position using alignment marks and adjust accordingly. – Debris or Fouling: It’s not uncommon for debris like seaweed or fishing lines to become entangled around your rudder assembly. Conduct regular inspections and clear any obstructions promptly.

2. The Dreadful Wobble: A wobbly tiller can transform a serene sail into an involuntary dance routine on deck, leaving even seasoned sailors longing for stability once more. Potential solutions: – Tighten Components: Ensure that all nuts, bolts, and screws securing your tiller system are appropriately tightened – but avoid over-tightening which may restrict movement. – Seized Bushings or Bearings: If excessive play is present in your steering mechanism due to worn or seized bushings/bearings, it might be time for some maintenance. Disassemble the necessary parts and inspect them for damage. – Replace Worn Parts: Over time, regular use can take its toll on your tiller’s components. Identify any excessively worn parts and replace them to restore stability.

3. The Stubborn Squeak: Ah, the dreaded squeak – a persistent companion that’d make even the most stoic sailor cringe with annoyance. An unruly squeaky tiller can disturb tranquility on deck, but fret not – silence is just around the corner! Possible remedies: – Lubrication Magic: Applying a suitable marine lubricant to all moving parts of your tiller mechanism can work wonders in combating squeaks. Be thorough in your application but avoid over-lubricating as it could attract dirt or cause components to slip. – Inspection for Wear: A close examination of fittings, hinges, and connecting points might reveal signs of wear or corrosion that contribute to the noise. Replace damaged parts promptly.

4. The Sticky Tiller Challenge: When your tiller resists smooth movements and decides to cling onto one position like a stubborn barnacle, life at sea becomes slightly more frustrating than you bargained for. Potential solutions: – Cleaning and Greasing: Remove any accumulated dirt or salt residue from your rudder assembly and apply an appropriate grease or silicone lubricant along the contact points between moving parts. – Barnacle Busters: Inspect your rudder system for barnacles or other marine organisms clinging to it. If found, remove them diligently using suitable brushes or scrapers.

Final Thoughts: A skillful sailor knows that understanding their sailboat’s quirks is key to maintaining smooth sailing experiences amidst unpredictable seas. Armed with these troubleshooting tips and a dose of light-hearted cleverness, you’re now ready to address common problems that afflict sailboat tillers with confidence and finesse! Let nothing stand in the way of your nautical adventures!

Recent Posts

Essential Tips

  • Sailboat Gear and Equipment
  • Sailboat Lifestyle
  • Sailboat Maintenance
  • Sailboat Racing
  • Sailboat Tips and Tricks
  • Sailboat Types
  • Sailing Adventures
  • Sailing Destinations
  • Sailing Safety
  • Sailing Techniques

Visit our Popular Forums

  • Monohull Sailboats
  • Multihull Sailboats
  • Powered Boats
  • General Sailing
  • Antares Yachts
  • Fountaine Pajot
  • Lagoon Catamarans

Cruising Business

  • Boat Classifieds
  • General Classifieds
  • Crew Positions
  • Commercial Posts
  • Vendor Spotlight

Life Aboard a Boat

  • Provisioning: Food & Drink
  • Families, Kids, & Pets Afloat
  • Recreation, Entertainment, & Fun
  • Boat Ownership & Making a Living
  • Liveaboard's Forum

Seamanship, Navigation & Boat Handling

  • Seamanship & Boat Handling
  • Training, Licensing, & Certification
  • Health, Safety, & Related Gear
  • Rules of the Road, Regulations, & Red Tape

Engineering & Systems

  • Const. / Maint. / Refit
  • Product / Service Reviews
  • Electronics: Comms / AV
  • Electrical: Batts / Gen / Solar
  • Lithium Power Systems
  • Engines & Propulsion
  • Propellers & Drive Systems
  • Plumbing / Fixtures
  • Deck Hdw: Rigging / Sails
  • Aux. Equipment & Dinghy
  • Anchoring & Mooring

Photo Categories

  • Member Galleries
  • Life Onboard
  • Sailing in the Wind
  • Power Boats
  • Cruising Destinations
  • Maint. & Boat Building
  • Marine Life
  • Scuba Diving & Divers
  • General Photos

Recent Photos

tiller arm sailboat

Listing Categories

  • African Cats
  • view more »
  • Crew Wanted
  • Crew Available
  • Enhance Your Account
  • Meet the Mods
  • Meet the Advisors
  • Signup for The Daily Cruiser Email
  > >

Cruiser Wiki

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums.
03-03-2019, 10:22  
Boat: Jeanneau 43DS
on a Landfall 38, which has very limited space on the stock.

The attached picture shows the space below the radial drive. I have 0.4" straight-edge clearance and 1.9" available shaft (but 1.5" of that is within the concave disk of the radial drive). The Edson tiller arm is 1 5/8" vertical and the Jefa one is 60mm / 2.36" - so neither one fits.

The radial drive has no room to move up, only about 0.25" clearance above with floor.

Through a lot of it seems my options are:

A) Custom tiller arm that uses a 90 degree bend, probably to increase strength. I haven't been able to find any designs for this except for one picture here:
(post #13 by knuterikt who I believe is in either or Norway).
2nd attached, and more on his website:

B) Removing my near new Edson radial drive (only 3 years old) and replacing with Jefa 270 degree quadrant with integrated tiller arm (~$900). This would be more and a shame because the Edson drive is in like-new shape and worth $500 (but perhaps I could recover some of that on the used market).


C) <I've ruled this out>: mounting ram direct to quadrant. Some people have done this but it's not super safe and Edson calls it a "likely catastrophic failure", so I don't want to do this option.

Option A would be easier and cheaper (maybe?), but I don't know of a proven design that is strong enough to handle the load (Raymarine EV-200). So option B is starting to look better.

Any have any more info (particularly blogs or pictures) of installs in tight spaces, without attaching it direct to the quadrant?    

 
03-03-2019, 22:48  
Boat: Island Packet 40
04-03-2019, 07:18  
Boat: Jeanneau 43DS
04-03-2019, 09:42  
Boat: corbin39
for you the 1 1/2 is #89150
04-03-2019, 10:02  
Boat: Jeanneau 43DS
04-03-2019, 10:31  
Boat: corbin39
has some with a split hub and offset to one side might have to cut down the hub some
04-03-2019, 11:46  
Boat: Building a Max Cruise 44 hybrid electric cat
, and they say it's not designed for point load pushing forces which is what an autopilot does. It's designed for pulling forces (through the cables). A type 1 drive delivers 650 lbs peak thrust and a type 2 can do 1050 lbs.

.
04-03-2019, 12:04  
Boat: Building a Max Cruise 44 hybrid electric cat
- Youtube Vlog -
04-03-2019, 18:15  
Boat: Island Packet 40
04-03-2019, 22:10  
Boat: Kaufman 47
came with a Type 1 or 2 linear drive attached to an Edson full circle quadrant(or whatever the term is for the full round ones) so the PO had success for a long time. We took that out and are going with a hydraulic ram mounted to a custom tiller arm made by our machinist.

Your third option being one made by a welder or machinist. This is what we are doing because no one makes tiller arms that aren't custom for 4" rudder shafts. We also needed a split collar type. Here is a picture of ours in the process of getting made. It's 3" thick aluminum for more grip since we can't/won't thru bolt it. It's clamped together with 4 x 1/2" socket bolts. It has a 1" plate welded to it for the tiller.
04-03-2019, 22:23  
Boat: Jon Sayer 1-off 46 ft fract rig sloop strip plank in W Red Cedar
04-03-2019, 22:32  
Boat: Nordic 44
04-03-2019, 22:34  
Boat: Kaufman 47
04-03-2019, 23:16  
Boat: Jon Sayer 1-off 46 ft fract rig sloop strip plank in W Red Cedar
.
04-03-2019, 23:25  
Boat: Nordic 44
the tiller to release the loctite might be iffy.

But I'm only going on instinct here... perhaps a more knowledgeable person might advise on the matter.

Jim
 
Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
:
Posting Rules
post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are
Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
kaakre Construction, Maintenance & Refit 0 16-04-2016 05:59
ftroop Construction, Maintenance & Refit 0 23-09-2012 02:57
Want To Buy: jphillips48 Classifieds Archive 0 22-08-2011 08:01
sneuman Construction, Maintenance & Refit 23 26-08-2010 17:11
anglooff Marine Electronics 1 20-08-2010 12:26
- - - - - - -

Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time.

  • MarketPlace
  • Digital Archives
  • Order A Copy

Ocean Navigator

Installing a powerful belowdecks autopilot

' src=

From Ocean Navigator #127 January/February 2003 We have owned several boats with cockpit-type autopilots. While they were useful for motoring on the bay in calm weather or sailing in a light to moderate breeze, they lacked the power to be useful when we needed them most: in strong winds and quartering seas. It was a revelation to us, however, when we sailed a Caribbean charter boat with a belowdecks autopilot. In the trade winds and a sea on our beam fetching from Africa, the autopilot proved itself the best helmsman aboard. We no longer wondered why people actually give these things names. We returned home convinced that a proper autopilot was essential equipment for the latest Clairebuoyant project, a Pearson 424 sloop. Elements of the autopilot the author installed on his Pearson 424 sloop. The drive unit is attached to an independent tiller arm, allowing the boat to be steered should the manual steering experience a malfunction.     Image Credit: Quentin Kinderman photos There are, of course, several manufacturers of suitable autopilots. Our decision, however, was biased in favor of Nexus, the manufacturer of the instrument system we had already installed. Pleased with the performance, not to mention the price, of this system on the prior Clairebuoyant, we even carried over a couple components from that boat to this one – a fluxgate compass and a remote control. Both of these pieces were essential for the autopilot, so we already had part of our planned autopilot system. Image Credit: Quentin Kinderman photos Elements of the autopilot the author installed on his Pearson 424 sloop. The drive unit is attached to an independent tiller arm, allowing the boat to be steered should the manual steering experience a malfunction. A good autopilot is versatile and an all-weather convenience. The ability of the system we chose to interface with our integrated instrument system meant that it would steer the boat not only to compass, but also to apparent wind, like a wind vane, and to a GPS waypoint. It is also an important safety device. If installed redundant to the boat’s steering system, the autopilot can steer the boat in the event that the steering system fails, making it a useful alternative to an emergency tiller. I also looked forward to tucking under the shelter of the dodger in foul weather, remote control in hand, rather than braving the elements at the wheel. The other components we needed included 1) a servo unit, 2) the “brains” of the system, which would interface with the instrument system and send power and instruction to the drive unit, 3) a rudder-angle transmitter to provide rudder-angle information to the servo, 4) a drive unit to actually turn the rudder and 5) a tiller arm or other mechanism to connect the drive unit to the rudder shaft. Image Credit: Quentin Kinderman photos The control box was located in the electronics closet (the former hanging locker). Two components, the servo and the rudder-angle transmitter, had to come from Nexus to be compatible with our instrument system. Shopping the Annapolis Boat Show, we found that ordering through a large discount mail-order marine supply (with boat show discount!) was the best deal. Picking the drive unit required a bit more effort. The recommended unit was a linear hydraulic drive with nine inches of travel. This type of drive is essentially an electric pump attached to a hydraulic cylinder. While we favored this type of drive, having heard too many stories of failures with purely mechanical drive units, the nine inches of travel required that the tiller arm be short in order to permit full rudder angle. Instead, we chose an Octopus drive unit. This unit was similar in design but provided 12 inches of travel and mounted the pump independently of the cylinder. The design allowed us to use a longer tiller arm, reducing the force necessary to turn the rudder. This, in turn, reduces the stress on the components and perhaps even means it consumes less power. The remotely mounted pump made installation and service easier in the crowded aft lazarette.     The final element was the attachment of the linear drive to the rudder shaft. Many autopilot installations simply reinforce the steering quadrant and bolt the drive to the quadrant. While some autopilot manufacturers recommend this, since it provides a compact and simple installation, we decided against it for a couple reasons. Image Credit: Quentin Kinderman photos The hydraulic pump unit. It was mounted separately from the drive unit in a location that makes maintenance easier. Done properly, this was not an inexpensive approach. We examined a quadrant modified by a local (and excellent) machine shop. A stainless-steel plate was fabricated to fit on the quadrant and attached to the quadrant with machine screws. This made the quadrant body virtually unbreakable. It did nothing, however, to reinforce the part of the quadrant that attached to the rudder shaft. Both the steering system and the autopilot would fail if the quadrant came loose of the rudder shaft or the shaft key sheared off. Since the autopilot drive is far more powerful than a human helmsman is, we reasoned that this approach actually increased the possibility of steering failure. Instead we opted for a tiller arm independent of the wheel steering system for our autopilot. Several companies offer suitable tiller arms. Fortunately, Clairebuoyant’s rudder shaft is the common size of 1 1/2-inch-diameter solid shaft, and we found a tiller arm that was a good fit and available by mail order at reasonable cost. It was sufficiently robust for the autopilot, yet compact enough to mount on the rudder shaft below the quadrant. The tiller arm also provided a convenient attachment point for the rudder-angle transmitter linkage. Clairebuoyant’s electronics closet (the former hanging locker) was the logical place to mount the servo unit, since it is convenient to both the batteries and the drive unit. We “super-sized” the power wiring, with a 6-gauge to avoid even nominal voltage drop to the drive unit. The drive unit was mounted on a robust oak 2-by-6, which is through-bolted to an athwartships beam that supports the rudder shaft. The 2-by-6 is also glassed to the hull on the port side. The remotely mounted pump is bolted to a shelf near the transom, out of harm’s way. The drive unit is attached to the tiller arm far enough out that the 12 inches of travel just reaches the rudder stops. Limits built into the servo prevent the autopilot from crashing the quadrant into the rudder stops. Once we programmed the remote control to recognize the autopilot and purged the air from the drive unit, it was time to try it out. We ran through the setup protocols for both the fluxgate compass and the servo unit, then engaged the autopilot. The electric pump made an audible buzz from under the helm seat, and the wheel moved slightly. It worked. Compass and waypoint driven, it is no contest. The autopilot is the better helmsman. Going to windward, especially in light air, I like to think that I’m still a little better than the autopilot. However, like me, the autopilot still could use a little fine-tuning. Come a stormy night, he might get the job without competition from me. Although not exactly “plug and play,” installing the autopilot was not a difficult job. A bit of research and planning were required. Choosing locations for the components and configuring a strong enough mounting arrangement for the drive unit required the most effort. Already having a fluxgate compass and a remote control saved $500 or so. The Octopus drive was a bit less expensive than the proprietary unit, but more importantly provided utility and convenience with its longer travel and remotely mounted pump. Seamless integration with our existing instrument system was a major benefit, as the autopilot can now do about everything a human helmsman can do except keep a lookout. Quentin Kinderman is retired from the federal government and lives near Annapolis, Md. He has restored several boats and is working on Clairebuoyant with the aim of long-distance voyaging. The other components we needed included 1) a servo unit, 2) the “brains” of the system, which would interface with the instrument system and send power and instruction to the drive unit, 3) a rudder-angle transmitter to provide rudder-angle information to the servo, 4) a drive unit to actually turn the rudder and 5) a tiller arm or other mechanism to connect the drive unit to the rudder shaft.   Image Credit: Quentin Kinderman photos The hydraulic pump unit. It was mounted separately from the drive unit in a location that makes maintenance easier. Two components, the servo and the rudder-angle transmitter, had to come from Nexus to be compatible with our instrument system. Shopping the Annapolis Boat Show, we found that ordering through a large discount mail-order marine supply (with boat show discount!) was the best deal. Picking the drive unit required a bit more effort. The recommended unit was a linear hydraulic drive with nine inches of travel. This type of drive is essentially an electric pump attached to a hydraulic cylinder. While we favored this type of drive, having heard too many stories of failures with purely mechanical drive units, the nine inches of travel required that the tiller arm be short in order to permit full rudder angle. Instead, we chose an Octopus drive unit. This unit was similar in design but provided 12 inches of travel and mounted the pump independently of the cylinder. The design allowed us to use a longer tiller arm, reducing the force necessary to turn the rudder. This, in turn, reduces the stress on the components and perhaps even means it consumes less power. The remotely mounted pump made installation and service easier in the crowded aft lazarette. The final element was the attachment of the linear drive to the rudder shaft. Many autopilot installations simply reinforce the steering quadrant and bolt the drive to the quadrant. While some autopilot manufacturers recommend this, since it provides a compact and simple installation, we decided against it for a couple reasons. Done properly, this was not an inexpensive approach. We examined a quadrant modified by a local (and excellent) machine shop. A stainless-steel plate was fabricated to fit on the quadrant and attached to the quadrant with machine screws. This made the quadrant body virtually unbreakable. It did nothing, however, to reinforce the part of the quadrant that attached to the rudder shaft. Both the steering system and the autopilot would fail if the quadrant came loose of the rudder shaft or the shaft key sheared off. Since the autopilot drive is far more powerful than a human helmsman is, we reasoned that this approach actually increased the possibility of steering failure. Instead we opted for a tiller arm independent of the wheel steering system for our autopilot. Several companies offer suitable tiller arms. Fortunately, Clairebuoyant’s rudder shaft is the common size of 1 1/2-inch-diameter solid shaft, and we found a tiller arm that was a good fit and available by mail order at reasonable cost. It was sufficiently robust for the autopilot, yet compact enough to mount on the rudder shaft below the quadrant. The tiller arm also provided a convenient attachment point for the rudder-angle transmitter linkage. Clairebuoyant’s electronics closet (the former hanging locker) was the logical place to mount the servo unit, since it is convenient to both the batteries and the drive unit. We “super-sized” the power wiring, with a 6-gauge to avoid even nominal voltage drop to the drive unit. The drive unit was mounted on a robust oak 2-by-6, which is through-bolted to an athwartships beam that supports the rudder shaft. The 2-by-6 is also glassed to the hull on the port side. The remotely mounted pump is bolted to a shelf near the transom, out of harm’s way. The drive unit is attached to the tiller arm far enough out that the 12 inches of travel just reaches the rudder stops. Limits built into the servo prevent the autopilot from crashing the quadrant into the rudder stops. Once we programmed the remote control to recognize the autopilot and purged the air from the drive unit, it was time to try it out. We ran through the setup protocols for both the fluxgate compass and the servo unit, then engaged the autopilot. The electric pump made an audible buzz from under the helm seat, and the wheel moved slightly. It worked. Compass and waypoint driven, it is no contest. The autopilot is the better helmsman. Going to windward, especially in light air, I like to think that I’m still a little better than the autopilot. However, like me, the autopilot still could use a little fine-tuning. Come a stormy night, he might get the job without competition from me. Although not exactly “plug and play,” installing the autopilot was not a difficult job. A bit of research and planning were required. Choosing locations for the components and configuring a strong enough mounting arrangement for the drive unit required the most effort. Already having a fluxgate compass and a remote control saved $500 or so. The Octopus drive was a bit less expensive than the proprietary unit, but more importantly provided utility and convenience with its longer travel and remotely mounted pump. Seamless integration with our existing instrument system was a major benefit, as the autopilot can now do about everything a human helmsman can do except keep a lookout. Quentin Kinderman is retired from the federal government and lives near Annapolis, Md. He has restored several boats and is working on Clairebuoyant with the aim of long-distance voyaging.

' src=

By Ocean Navigator

IMAGES

  1. Tiller

    tiller arm sailboat

  2. Standard Pelagic Autopilot System for Tiller Steered Vessels (Current

    tiller arm sailboat

  3. Building a Wooden Sailboat #18: The Tiller

    tiller arm sailboat

  4. Aluminum Barge Boat For Sale 82, Sailboat Tiller Construction

    tiller arm sailboat

  5. Sail boat : Tiller Stock Photo

    tiller arm sailboat

  6. Tiller steering arm.

    tiller arm sailboat

VIDEO

  1. Sailboat Racing Tips: Tiller Technique

  2. Making a Custom Hand Made Sail Boat Tiller

  3. Self Steering Sheet to Tiller for Sailboats

  4. Pro Setup for your Rudder & Tiller

  5. How to set up self steering on a sailboat. Sailing Trailer Boats

  6. How to Use an Emergency Tiller on a Boat

COMMENTS

  1. Autopilot Tiller Arms

    Edson's bronze tiller arms are used for cruising boats and boats with stainless or bronze rudder-posts. Specifically designed for use with linear drive autopilot systems. Keeps autopilot independent of steering system.

  2. Edson Marine: Autopilot Tiller Arms (926

    Edson's Bronze Tiller Arms are used for cruising boats and boats with stainless or bronze rudder-posts. Specifically designed for use with linear drive autopilot systems. Keeps Autopilot independent of Steering System. Makes Autopilot an …

  3. Tiller for Sailboat: A Comprehensive Guide

    A tiller is a lever used to steer a sailboat. It connects directly to the rudder, allowing the sailor to control the direction of the boat. The tiller is typically made of wood or metal and is …

  4. Sailboat Tiller: A Comprehensive Guide to Steering Your Vessel

    A sailboat tiller is a lever used to steer a sailboat by connecting it to the rudder. It allows the sailor to control the direction of the boat by manipulating the position of the tiller. …

  5. Fitting a tiller arm for autopilot in a tight space

    Fitting a tiller arm for autopilot in a tight space. I'm hoping to install a below-decks autopilot on a C&C Landfall 38, which has very limited space on the rudder stock. The attached …

  6. Installing a powerful belowdecks autopilot

    The drive unit is attached to an independent tiller arm, allowing the boat to be steered should the manual steering experience a malfunction. A good autopilot is versatile and …

  7. Edson Marine Tiller Arm

    Edson tiller arms are available in 10" and 15" lengths for use with most of the autopilots on the market today. Variable attachment points allow for proper positioning of the autopilot ram. Two …