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Ranking the Best Marine Power Inverters of 2024

Xantrex Prowatt 1000 SW Marine Power Inverter

Rally Marine Grade 400W Power Inverter

Go Power! GP-3000HD 3000-Watt Heavy Duty Marine Power Inverter

If you’re serious about boating, you need the best power inverter. Marine power inverters change the DC power from your boat battery into useful AC power. AC power is what allows most common appliances to function. You can plug in any appliance you choose and get it running when you have access to AC power. That’s anything from a blender to make drinks to a charger to charge your phone. You can even kick back and play Xbox if you want. And of course, it’s also handy for plugging in power tools or cooking equipment.

One of the big benefits to using a power inverter is the efficiency of it. While a generator could provide power, it’s harder to use. Generators run on fuel. They also produce exhaust. A power inverter is quick and clean. All it needs is your boat’s battery to run. Then you have access to high power for a long period of time. With an inverter and charger combo, you can power your boat and appliances for even longer.

You do need to make sure you selected the correct power inverter for your boat. Not every power inverter is compatible with every boat. Likewise, you need to make sure your power inverter can handle the appliances you’re plugging into it. More and bigger appliances require more power.

The Xantrex Prowatt is one of the best power inverters on the market. It features a continuous 1000-watt output. There is an easy-to-read display that shows output power and volts. There’s also one USB and GFCI plugs that are included. GFCI stands for ground fault circuit interrupter. It helps prevent you from getting shocked if there’s a fault somewhere in the circuit. You can safely plug in numerous devices to the two AC outlets.

When idle, the Xantrex Pro watt power inverter minimizes energy use to help save power. It also comes with an optional remote switch, so you don’t need to walk over and turn it on all the time when you need it.

At just over seven pounds is not going to break your back moving it around. It also has a 900-watt pure sine wave power output. Compared to similar power inverters, this one also doesn’t make very much noise. On a hot day you may want to keep an eye on where you have it placed, however. You definitely want to keep this cool. The possibility of it overheating and direct sunlight is very real. The price is also on par with cheaper modified sine wave power inverters. That makes this one of the best power inverters you can buy.

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If you’re not in the market for a massive power inverter, Rally has you covered. Their 400-watt power inverter comes with a USB charging port and two AC parts. The output peaks at 800 watts so you don’t want to use this for something like a microwave. However, if you’re just looking to spend a day on the boat and keep your phone charged, this is a great option. It’s cheaper than the larger units, but it gets the job done. It’s built for marine work, which makes it corrosion resistant. Safety features include low battery shutdown protection. There’s also overload and thermal protection. The company also includes a 2-year warranty. This is much better than some of the more expensive options. While this may not work for hardcore use it can charge a car’s battery or run some smaller power tools.

The Go Power 3000-watt power inverter has 3000 watts of continuous power. The safety features offer protection from overload, under voltage, and over-voltage. Four 120-volt AC outlets are available to power your various appliances. There is no USB outlet, however. It does warn you of low battery, and there is an auto shutdown feature with an alarm. The company provides a one-year warranty. Although this is not a pure sine inverter, it has proven to be very reliable for many boaters. For a modified sine wave power inverter, this is one of the best. Expect it to be able to power the TV, a laptop, a microwave, power tools, and much more. If you need a very high power output, this is one of the best power inverters you can get.

GoWISE Power 2000W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter

The GoWISE Pure sine wave power inverter offers three outlets and also a USB port. If you need two USB ports, you can simply plug in an adapter. That should be adequate to handle all the power needs for the devices on your boat. It’s one of the highest power inverters you’re going to find on the market. It offers a continuous 2000 watts of continuous power output. The peak output is 4000 watts. Low harmonic distortion technology makes this close to the level of power you expect to get at home. It also features a 5-protection safety features system to keep you safe. That protects against thermals, low voltage, over-voltage, under-voltage, and overload. There is even a remote switch and battery cables included in your purchase.

The remote is good for up to 15 feet. Warning indicators will let you know when the inverter has run for too long. It also powers off when the volts go too low. Some owners have complained that it doesn’t always meet peak power output. It may max out before 2000 watts. But it does offer quality power anywhere on your boat. And the operation is usually quiet.

Cantonape 1500W Pure Sine Wave Inverter

If your big concern when it comes to power inverters is safety, the Cantonape 1500-watt pure sine wave is for you. You’re looking at six levels of safety features to offer protection when you choose this inverter. Overload, overheating, over-voltage, under-voltage, short circuit, and reverse polarity. With the 1500-watt continuous output and 3000-watt surge, it can handle most electronic devices. You can safely plug a fridge into this inverter without worry.

There are two AC Outlets available. Battery and output voltage are listed on a built-in display. The cooling fan is a smart fan and we’ll adjust speed according to the temperature of the unit. The case is also aluminum, so it can handle life at sea. Spare fuses are also included, not to mention a one-year warranty.

$129.99 Amazon  →

AIMS Power PWRIX120012S 1200-Watt Pure Sine Inverter

The AIMS power inverter offers up 1200 watts output. it is cheaper than many other pure sine wave inverters. The trade-off is that it is not as powerful as some others. Depending on your needs however, this could be a great fit. If you’re only looking to operate a few appliances or electronics, this is a good idea. A cooling fan keeps the unit from overheating. However, it is noisier than some. It’s also available with an optional remote control. Hardwire terminals are also included when you buy this. There’s a transfer switch that controls the inverter’s pass through. It does not have USB ports or AC outlets, so this is not for casual use.

Power Bright PW2300-12 Marine Power Inverter

The Power Bright 2300 marine power inverter is built to change 2300-watt 12-volt DC to 110-volt AC power. This is modified sine wave model. It runs 2300 watts of continuous power with a 4600-watt peak power at the high end of consumption. This makes it a standout compared to most power inverters. The case is anodized aluminum for durability. There is a built-in cooling fan as well. The cooling fan runs fairly quietly. There are two 120-volt AC outlets, but no power cords included, you’ll need to buy those. It’s powerful enough to run a freezer if you want to.

It features overvoltage and under-voltage shutdown. There’s also a low voltage alarm. It features overload and thermal shutdown as well. There’s also a wireless remote control. The remote is effective up to 150 feet.

Magnum Energy MS2000

The Magnum ms2000 is a pure sine wave power inverter and charger. This one is designed to be permanently installed in your boat. Most others are portable ones you’d carry around with you. But, since it’s both an inverter and a charger, it does serve dual purpose. It offers up 2,000 watts of continuous power. Because it’s a pure sine wave inverter, it can handle delicate electronics. Things like dimmer switches or charging phones or even your TV and Xbox. It features a five-stage smart charging system. This is able to speed up charging while protecting your battery. It also uses less power from a generator than your standard charger. Most chargers use 23 amps Per 100 amps. The Magnum Energy will operate at a lean 15 amps per 100 amps.

The housing is designed for marine use. it features code and circuit boards to protect from corrosion. You can write it off of 12 volt or 24-volt DC power. As is to be expected it features the protections that most other units offer. That means no fear of over voltage for under voltage shut down. this is definitely not for casual outings or you just need to charge your cell phone. If you’re looking for some serious power, the Magnum energy might be the best inverter you’ll find.

ProMariner True Power 2000PS Pure Sine Wave Charger

For true versatility, the Promariner pure sine wave charger and inverter is one of the best. This power inverter can also function as a battery charger. It’s definitely a bigger investment than most other converter seal fine. But its dual purpose makes it worth the money. Combined with a durable construction, this is truly a powerful piece of technology.

Featuring 2000w continuous output, this inverter can handle most of what you throw at it. Because it’s a pure sine wave inverter, it’s safe for your most sensitive Electronics. As a battery charger you can get 70 amps from it. It’s capable of charging a 12-volt battery. There are also 7 charger profiles you can use and three stages of charging.

Both the inverter and charger are automatic. There is no loud noise when the unit is in operation and it features an instant AC transfer switch.

Tripp Lite Power Marine Inverter

The Tripp Lite power inverter offers up 2000 watts of continuous power output. Peak output takes it up to 4000 Watts. It features two AC outlets as well as a ventilated case with a cooling fan. It’s also designed to be tough and durable and features a one-year warranty. It includes protections including overload, short circuit, high voltage, low voltage, and overheating.

That 42 lbs it’s definitely a bulky unit. The cooling fan is good at keeping the temperatures down for the size, however. The durable case is also moisture resistant, which makes it perfect for boat use. it’s all so easily mounted on any flat surface. You can expect this inverter to last you a long time if you take care of it.

IpowerBingo Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter

The IpowerBingo pure sine wave power inverter has a 2000-watt continuous output. Peak power is 4000 Watt. An LED display will show you your voltage output. There is overload, short circuit, and over temperature protection. It also offers reverse polarity and over and under voltage protection. Bibs ideal operating temperature ranges from 0 degrees Celsius up to 40 degrees. When it does get too hot, there is a cooling fan that is nearly silent. High gauge cables have been included. There’s also a high-quality aluminum inductance.

 Amazon  →

Things to Remember

Choosing the best power inverter depends heavily on what you plan to do on your boat. If all you need to do is charge your phone, then power output may not be your Chief concern. In that case, you may want to focus mainly on the price of the inverter. Any inverter will have a few factors you’re going to want to check out. Once you know how the inverter works and what it can do, you can make an informed choice.

Continuous Wattage

Arguably the most important thing to consider when buying a power inverter. When you know the continuous wattage, you know how many appliances the inverter can power. For instance, if you have a 2000-watt inverter, you know you can handle an 800-watt microwave. One thing to remember is that most inverters will not be able to offer you 100% efficiency. If it says 2,000 watts, expect it to max out at 1800 watts. Most inverters can only pull about 90% efficiency. Just to be safe, plan for that as your baseline.

Depending on what you want to do with your inverter, you’ll need to account for the outlets available. Some offer one, two, three or more AC outlets. Some will also feature USB charging ports. More outlets offer more versatility. But you have to remember your space concerns as well. How many appliances can you plug into the space you have available?

Inverters are sold as either modified or pure sine wave forms. Modified sine wave inverters are less expensive. Pure sine wave inverters are a more efficient power source. They can create more power and transfer more power. If you are using smaller electronics, a modified inverter will probably do the job for you. If you’re running some serious electronics, you’ll want a pure sine wave inverter. Pure sine wave inverters are able to handle large appliances. Think things like refrigerators and stoves.

Safety Features

An unprotected power inverter can fail you in a number of ways. There are up to six different levels of protection that you can get from certain power inverters. The more levels of protection, the better off you’ll be. These include:

• Overload protection
• Short circuit protection
• Reverse polarity protection
• Overheating protection
• Under voltage protection
• Over-voltage protection

Any one of these could cause serious damage with your electronics if something were to go wrong. An inverter that includes protection against these things will keep your devices secure.

Some inverters feature GFCI output. These are safer to use than typical AC outlets. They greatly reduce the risk of shocks. Remember, the amount of power flowing through and inverter can be dangerous. 120 volts could be dangerous, especially in wet conditions on a boat.

Even though this may not seem like a major concern, the case for your inverter is important. Not every inverter is meant for marine use. Tough aluminum cases resist corrosion. A power inverter that’s meant for an RV might not be able to handle extended use on the water. This is especially true if you’re using your boat on the ocean. The salt spray could potentially cause damage to a normal inverter.

It should come as no surprise that a power inverter can draw a lot of power. You need to make sure your batteries are up to the task. Many serious boaters will pair their inverter with a generator. That ensures you never run low on power. You can also get an engine alternator. That will recharge your battery while the engine is running. That way your inverter will not drain you dry. Also, many boaters opt to use solar panels. You can even get wind generators. Always make sure you are sure about how to handle this kind of wiring. If you’re not, get a professional to do it for you. Mistakes could leave you out on the water with no power at all.

The Bottom Line

A good power inverter can make boating life much more enjoyable. If you spend a lot of time on the water, you probably look at your boat the way people on land look at RVs. You need to have a reliable power source to operate your electronics. Whether that means running a microwave, or plugging in a computer, it makes things easier. Even keeping your phones charged can be a hassle sometimes. The best power inverter can make your boat almost as convenient as your home in terms of power usage.

Make sure you are buying an inverter that matches your needs. If you are planning on extensive hours of use, then you’ll need and more powerful inverter. If you just need to keep a few things charged, then a smaller unit may work for you. Stay safe and have fun, that’s what boating is supposed to be about.

My grandfather first took me fishing when I was too young to actually hold up a rod on my own. As an avid camper, hiker, and nature enthusiast I'm always looking for a new adventure.

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Which is the Best Marine Inverter-charger for Your Boat?

Review weighs the pros and cons of different dc inverters in the 2,000-watt range..

Modern boats are becoming increasingly complex electrically and electronically. Customer expectations call for all manner of home-like creature comforts on board. Things like flat-screen TVs, sophisticated audio systems, onboard computers, air-conditioning, and light-dimmers are the new-boat norm, increasing the demand for AC-power systems that can deliver clean, undistorted power with a minimum amount of electronic or magnetic interference.

Photos by Ed Sherman

That’s where inverter-chargers come in. In the April 2005 issue, Practical Sailor compared six 2,000-watt DC-power marine inverter-chargers. Nothing has changed since then in regard to how they work. What has changed is that today, there are more players offering this equipment, and the level of sophistication in the devices’ monitoring and calibration systems has been ramped up. In light of this,  Practical Sailor editors decided a fresh look at the product group was in order.

Because inverter-chargers are essentially two devices in one, we’ve opted to present our recent tests in two parts. In this issue, we take a look at the devices’ inverters and in an upcoming issue, we’ll report on the battery chargers.

How We Tested

For our tests, the inverters were powered by a West Marine flooded-cell, deep-cycle battery with a 90-amp-hour rating. For loads, we used a series of 200-watt lights that could be separately switched, a Lutron AC light dimmer control, and a Vizio HD flat-screen television to test for interference and functionality of the modified-sine wave units.

Inherent in a modern boat’s complex power system is the problem of radiated interference. Electromagnetic interference (EMI) and radio frequency interference (RFI) have become installer nightmares as we try to jam all this equipment into small spaces.

To that end, we tested each product for both EMI and RFI outputs and established a “safe zone of separation,” a minimum safe distance for mounting the inverter-chargers away from other equipment that may be either magnetically or noise sensitive.

It’s important to note here that some vendors will tout their product’s compliance with FCC Class A standards relative to radio frequency interference. This is rubbish, in our view. FCC Class A basically addresses RFI in residential installations, i.e. houses. The typical home offers much greater latitude in terms of equipment location to minimize the effects of RFI than a 35- or 45-foot boat.

To test for electromagnetic emissions, we scanned each unit under load with an A.W. Sperry EMF-200A Electromagnetic Field Radiation Tester. For our radiated noise tests, we used a Grundig G2000A AM / FM shortwave radio (frequency spectrums from 540-1700 kHz, 88-108 MHz and 2.3-26.1 MHz) and a Standard Horizon handheld VHF radio (160 MHz).

We looked at the waveform delivered from each unit and calculated the harmonic distortion on the true-sine wave units, comparing them with normally accepted tolerances. To make our distortion and waveform evaluations, we used a Fluke 867B connected to a laptop computer running Flukeview software.

For cruisers, conserving energy is important, so we also compared DC current draws to AC current draws to calculate the basic efficiency of the units. Efficiency figures will vary based on demand load and battery voltage; most inverters’ efficiency will improve with higher loads. All test products were rated for efficiency using the same loads and voltage. We also measured each product’s DC current draw with the units in “standby” mode—connected to the DC source, ready to supply AC power, but at idle.

We also compared continuous and peak outputs. This specification is quite important if you are going to be operating equipment that has a motor in use for part or all of its function. Motors draw considerably more current on startup than in normal operation, so you must have a capable power source to handle the load. Amperage readings were measured using a Blue Sea Systems 8110 True RMS meter and an Extech 380942 True RMS clamp for comparison.

We considered each product’s ability to combine multiple inverters in a parallel configuration to provide more power if needed. The ease of a DIY installation and manufacturer-supplied instructions also were evaluated. Finally, we looked at price and warranty to determine the best value.

What We Tested

Marine DC inverters, which change low-voltage DC energy (usually from a battery bank) into AC line voltage, are basically divided into two classes: True Sine Wave (TSW) and quasi or Modified Sine Wave (MSW). Each uses a different method to produce AC voltage. (For more on this, see “Inverters 101,” above.) At the time of our 2005 test, there was a considerable price difference between TSW and MSW inverters—that’s not so today.

For this report, testers evaluated modified, or “quasi,” sine wave units from Charles Industries, Magnum Energy, ProMariner, and Tripp Lite, and true-sine wave units from Magnum, Mastervolt, ProMariner, and Xantrex. All test units were in the 2,000- to 3,000-watt output range.

Newmar and Xantrex recently released new units that were not yet available when this test began; we plan to test these in a follow-up report.

Charles IQ-2600

Charles Industries’ IQ-2600 was by far the heaviest and largest inverter-charger in our test group; however, it also has the highest output. Built in the U.S. by Vanner Industries, the IQ-2600 is UL (Underwriters Laboratories) Listed and Approved. (See “Industry Standards,” above, for more on UL certification.)

The IQ-2600 performed well in all of our output testing and met its specifications with no problems. As in our 2005 tests, it was the most efficient of all the units we compared (93 percent), and it had the highest output ratings among the products in this round of testing.

The IQ-2600 uses a traditional, low-frequency transformer, which accounts for most of its heft. It does emit some pretty powerful EMI and RFI, particularly RFI at AM radio frequencies. A 36-inch separation brought the noise and magnetic emissions down to nothing, so separation from magnetically or

radio-frequency sensitive equipment is a must. Its standby current draw on the batteries was middle of the road at 1.2 amps.

The IQ-2600 is available with an optional remote monitor and control panel and has some sophisticated control functionality like automatic power transfer switching and auto power management, both useful features discussed in our April 2005 issue.

The Charles quasi-sine wave inverter’s waveform struggled in our light dimmer test. The dimmer simply would not function, so if your boat has light dimmers, this unit won’t work on those circuits. The waveform saw no effect during our flat-panel TV testing, however.

With a price of $3,500, the IQ-2600 was the most expensive in our test.

Bottom line: This is a ruggedly built, solid performer that has a solid track record. If weight and space aren’t issues on your boat, and higher output and reliability with a good history are of primary concern, the IQ-2600 may be a good choice.

Magnum MS2000

Fairly new to the marine market, the Magnum MS2000 inverter is ETL Listed. (See “Industry Standards,” above.)

The TSW Magnum uses conventionally wound transformers in the MS2000, but it weighed nearly half of the Charles IQ-2600. Of course, the MS2000 had considerably less output than the IQ-2600 with continuous ratings of 2,000 watts and a surge rating of 2,800, compared to the IQ-2600’s 2,600 and 7,800 watts, respectively. The Magnum’s lower output correlates to the lighter weight.

The MS2000 delivered an impressive standby current draw of only 0.6 amps. As with the Charles unit, our tests showed fairly high EMI and RFI emissions that required a 36-inch separation from other equipment, and low harmonic distortion was calculated at 3 percent.

Testers really liked the MS2000’s optional remote monitoring panel ($230), which both testers and the manufacturer highly recommend using. Testers also noted that the device was easy to set up and easy to use with user-friendly software and simple initial calibrations.

The MS2000 comes with a three-year warranty, the best in this test group.

Bottom line: This unit will effectively run any AC equipment connected to it. At $1,750 (with the optional remote panel), the MS2000 is a  Practical Sailor Recommended product among TSW inverters.

Magnum ME2012

Magnum’s ME2012 is an MSW inverter, so it may not effectively power some distortion-sensitive equipment. As with the Charles IQ-2600, the dimmer control would not function during testing, but the Vizio TV performed just fine.

The ME2012 is ETL Listed for compliance with all of the relevant standards. (See “Industry Standards,” page 18.) As with the MS2000, testers recommend using it with the optional, easy-to-use remote monitor/calibration panel.

This unit measured the lowest standby current draw in the test—0.45 amps DC—a valuable trait for cruising sailors who want ready-to-go AC power with a minimum of battery charge depletion. Its calculated efficiency during tests was 91 percent, also a desirable feature for those trying to maximize battery state.

Measured EMI and RFI were moderate, requiring 36 inches of equipment separation to negate the emissions.

The ME2012 retails for $1,650, with the optional panel and a three-year warranty. With there being only a $100 difference between the ME2012 and the TSW Magnum, we’d opt for the MS2000, unless motor circuits are in the plans. The peak current for the ME2012 is 3,700 watts compared to the MS2000’s 2,800 watts.

Bottom line: A solid competitor in the MSW field, the ME2012 would be easy for a DIY installer to conquer.

Mastervolt Combi 12/2000-100

The Mastervolt Combi 12/2000-100 was the only test product made in Europe for the U.S. market. Long known for its innovative solutions, Mastervolt’s Combi clearly demonstrated some of the real advantages to the company’s approach to inverter and charger products in recent years.

This unit, unlike most of the others in our group, uses a high-frequency switch-mode technology as a basis for its voltage conversions. The result is a unit that is not dimensionally small in its form factor, but at 24 pounds, it was one of the lightest units in the test group.

Because it is made in Europe, the Mastervolt is certified by the manufacturer to be compliant with some really tough International Standards Organization (ISO) standards. Standards in Europe for such things as EMI and RFI are much stricter than they are in North America, and our measurements on the Combi bore this out. According to its maker, it’s also third-party tested to ABYC and UL standards.

Magnetically, we measured a peak of only 54 milligauss of emission compared to off-scale readings of more than 200 milligauss, dramatically lower. As for RFI emissions, our tests showed very low noise at all frequencies. Only 18 inches of separation completely nulled noise and magnetic emission readings, making this a good choice for installations near sensitive equipment.

Mastervolt boasts a peak wattage rating of 4,000 watts, one of the highest among 2,000-watt continuous inverters. Our tests confirmed this capability.

Calculated harmonic distortion of the Mastervolt Combi’s sine-wave output came in at a mere 1.5 percent, an excellent reading by any account, which ensures that this unit can power even the most sensitive AC appliances. The unit tested at 88 percent efficiency, a very good showing, especially for a TSW device.

One important installation factor for any European inverter is the set-up for North American power that requires an AC neutral-to-ground link at a source of AC power. The default setting for the Mastervolt is to not have this link made internal to the unit. It is programmable by carefully adjusting dip-switch settings in the device, as are other important functions for output calibration and such.

The Combi is engineered to be “stackable,” or paralleled with a similar inverter to double the effective output. Also, the Combi is completely network capable, which may be significant for the more sophisticated boats using NMEA 2000 integrated systems. Another unique feature of the Mastervolt is its free software program, “MasterAdjust” (downloadable at www.mastervolt.com ), which allows the user to check the status of the battery charger function and the inverter and power transfer functions, and to set switching parameters to meet system specific needs, via a laptop computer.

The most sophisticated device in test group, with power sharing and power boosting, the Mastervolt Combi 12/2000 has a list price of $2,599.

Bottom line: A high-quality product with a host of unique features, the Mastervolt Combi is recommended, particularly for use with highly sensitive electronics.

ProMariner Combi 2500 QS

We had high hopes for the two Combi units we tested from New Hampshire-based ProMariner. Their form factor renders them convenient for either flat or bulkhead mounting, and their 43-pound weight was in the middle of the test pack. Also, they

were the only units in our test group that truly met the spirit of the American Boat and Yacht Council’s (ABYC) grounding recommendation. (See “Staying Grounded,” above.)

The ProMariner Combi 2500QS had an efficiency value of 89 percent, on par with others in the test group. Its standby current-draw was also in the same range as others at 0.55 amps.

The 2500QS had extremely noisy emissions both magnetically and in audible radio frequencies. Testers were able to clear the magnetic interference with a 36-inch separation, but it took nearly 6 feet of separation to get the noise to stop on the RFI side of things. The noise was evident throughout our entire test frequency spectrum. The 2500QS should not be mounted anywhere near an onboard radio antenna.

The owner’s manual discusses the unit’s compliance with FCC Class A requirements. As explained earlier, FCC Class A is not particularly relevant to marine installations, and the unit we tested was quite noisy. The manual went on to explain that the unit was designed to comply with ABYC standards and applicable UL standards, but there is no mention of any certification associated with this design concept.

The unit is CE marked, but our test results left testers skeptical that the unit we tested actually complies with the European Union’s strict magnetic and radio frequency emission standards.

During testing, the unit did seem to keep up with our stepped wattage and peak wattage tests, so there doesn’t seem to be any disparity there.

The Combi 2500QS has a list price of $1,300 and a two-year warranty.

Bottom line: We commend ProMariner for being the first to comply fully with the ABYC grounding recommendation. However, its average test performance, coupled with its high RFI, held it back.

ProMariner Combi 2000PS

Again, we had high hopes for the TSW ProMariner Combi 2000PS (pure sine). But, our testing showed some flaws in the unit we tested.

Emissions were nearly identical to the 2500QS unit, and the efficiency levels were 73 percent, the lowest of all the units tested. The standby current draw was an acceptable 0.75 amps.

On the plus side, the waveform demonstrated a remarkably low 1-percent harmonic distortion, so it passed all of our equipment tests with flying colors. With that level of distortion, the 2000PS could run even the most sensitive gear. The case and grounding system stud are identical to the 2500QS. The output, both continuous and peak, were within tolerance.

Priced at $1,400, the 2000PS has a built-in monitor panel that can be removed and mounted remotely, making this unit the least expensive of the TSW units we tested.

Bottom line: Because of its extreme emissions and low efficiency, the 2000PS would not be our first choice.

Xantrex Prosine 2.0

The Prosine 2.0 has been around for a few years, and both it and its maker, Xantrex Technology, have proven track records. Because Xantrex is a Canadian company, the unit is certified by the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) to comply with UL standards.

Like the Mastervolt Combi, this TSW inverter packs a high-frequency transformer in a lightweight unit. It has an excellent form factor for easy location on a horizontal or a vertical plane, and its light weight will minimize strain on boat structure.

The Prosine demonstrated the lowest magnetic and RFI emissions of all of the units tested. A mere 12 inches of separation negated all interference.

Our calculated efficiency for the Prosine 2.0 was right on target at 89 percent, and the standby current draw was a mere 0.6 amps. Harmonic distortion also put this inverter at the top of its game with only 1 percent.

Our continuous and intermittent wattage testing of this unit verified its specified 2,000 watts continuous and 4,500-watt surge ratings. The documentation that comes with the unit is good, and DIY installation is realistic, in our opinion. Testers did find the calibration instructions a bit convoluted.

Like the Mastervolt Combi, the Prosine is stackable, but in a series configuration. This enables a user to create a 120-/240-volt capable system, which could be useful for running a clothes dryer, for example.

Bottom line: Priced at $1,900, the Prosine 2.0 is an impressive unit, and we highly recommend its inverter.

Tripp Lite MRV2012

Tripp Lite, a Chicago-based maker of power protection devices, manufactures several inverter-charger units, including the MRV2012-UL we tested. There is really nothing too sophisticated about the MRV2012 when compared to some of the other products in our test group.

Performance issues were similar to other MSW inverters we tested. We achieved a calculated efficiency of only 77 percent and found a 2.25-amp current draw in standby mode. Emissions were moderate, similar to most of the other units we tested. Testers found that 36 inches of separation made the noise and magnetic field go away.

The MRV2012 has an optional remote monitor panel, which was not included with the unit we tested. We recommend spending the extra $149 for the remote panel as the LED array built in to the case is a bit difficult to read and is somewhat obscured by the case itself.

At 43 pounds, the MRV2012 falls in the middle of the pack weight-wise. Its continuous and peak wattage ratings tested out OK.

With the optional monitoring panel, the MRV 2012-UL sells for $1,144 and it comes with a 2½-year warranty.

Bottom line: As an inverter, it falls in a “middle of the road” category, but its simplicity and price earn it the PS Budget Buy pick. We’ll see how it performs as a battery charger in our next issue.

To decide which marine inverter-charger best meets your onboard power demands, first consider how it will be used, how and where it will be mounted, and what is required to fit with your electrical system. Not all inverter-chargers are created equal, so weighing the pros and cons of the different types will give you a clearer picture of what you need.

For this look at the inverter function of our marine inverter-charger test group, we recommend the Magnum MS2000 true-sine wave inverter. It is a lightweight, above-average performer, and has a high efficiency rating and an excellent warranty. We prefer lower magnetic and RFI emissions, but for the price and ease of use, we’d find a suitable mounting location.

Testers also liked the impressive Xantrex Prosine 2.0 and Mastervolt Combi.

If you want simple, low-cost raw power, and the assurance of a UL-Listed product, the Tripp Lite MRV2012 may be worth considering. It’s the Practical Sailor Budget Buy for this group of inverters.

The ProMariner devices, the 2500QS and 2000PS, proved average performers, but their high RFI and the 2000PS’s low efficiency kept them from making our top picks list.

Those boat owners for whom space, weight, and budget are of no concern may do well to take look at the Charles IQ-2600, if a modified-sine wave inverter fits the bill.

Bear in mind that this is only half of the picture. Stay tuned for the second part of this test, when we evaluate the charger function of these inverter-chargers.

• Inverters 101
• Industry Standards
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Marine Inverter-Chargers
• Staying Grounded
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Do you love being out on your boat but still enjoying the modern conveniences from home such as microwaves, TVs, coffee pots, hair dryers, or even running a power tool to make some repairs? Using these items on your boats is easy when you have a marine power inverter. Savvy boaters install marine inverters to be able enjoy the comforts of home while out on their boat.

Who Needs a Marine Power Inverter?

Marine inverters are used to convert 12-volt DC battery power into 120-volts of AC power, which allows appliances and other tools to run when there is no shore power or a generator. Inverters come in various sizes with all sorts of different features. When selecting a marine power inverter there are a few things to consider such as output wattage, surge capability and efficiency ratings. At Wholesale Marine we carry the top brands, Xantrex and Road Pro to power boats of any size without sinking your budget. The Xantrex Freedom HF 1000 is a compact option great for running small appliances and a perfect choice for boat or RV. The Xantrex Freedom SW2012 is a powerful, versatile option designed as both a marine power inverter and charger.

Keep in mind that marine inverters run off batteries, so be sure to have a fresh supply on board. At Wholesale Marine, we carry both marine inverters and batteries to provide on-stop shopping to ensure that all the conveniences of home are available on your boat. We know you want to keep your boat running trouble free. Our vast selection of products are available with same day flat rate shipping and also offer easy returns. You’ll also receive the best customer service and advice. Be sure to ask about our Captain’s Club Rewards Program for additional savings on your next purchase. Call us today at 877-388-2628 Monday through Friday from 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM EST.

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8 Best Marine Power Inverters In 2023

Reviewed By Herb Benavent / Boating Editor

OUR TOP PICK

GoWISE Power PS1003 2000W Pure Sine Wave

Editors choice.

Xantrex PROwatt 1000 SW 806-1210

PowerBright PW2300-12

The top 8 marine power inverters in 2023.

• 1. GoWISE Power PS1003 2000W Pure Sine Wave
• 2. Xantrex PROwatt 1000 SW 806-1210
• 3. PowerBright PW2300-12
• 4. Go Power! 3000-Watt Heavy Duty High Wattage
• 5. Rally Marine Grade 400W USB Charging Port
• 6. IpowerBingo Pure Sine Wave
• 7. Cantonape 1500W Pure Sine Wave
• 8. ProMariner True Power 2000PS Charger

A power inverter is a handy piece of equipment to have on your boat. It converts DC power from your marine batteries to AC power giving you a safe and reliable power supply to power the electronic devices, entertainment systems and appliances you have on-board. 

There is quite a choice of inverters on the market. To make your choice easier, we selected some excellent marine inverters with different power outputs and waveforms. To pick out the best boat inverter for your needs, go through our reviews and buying guide below where we break down the details.

The best pure sine wave inverter you can rely on to power any appliance, audio/visual equipment, or mobile electronics you have on your boat without a hitch is GoWISE PS1003 boat inverter. An ETL certified pure sine inverter with low harmonic distortion and a 60Hz frequency, it provides clean power, maximum efficiency and a pleasant user experience.

Power Output and Outlets

2000W continuous power with 4000W surge capability is plenty of wattage for boat power needs. The pure sine wave with low harmonic distortion and soft start technology delivers clean power similar in quality to the AC power at home and safe for any piece of equipment connected to it whether it's a computer, a microwave or a laser printer. It’s equipped with 4 charger sockets – 3 AC output outlets and 1 USB port.

Features and Operation

The charger is very safe for your devices since it comes with 5 protection systems – thermal, overload, over voltage, under voltage and it has a low voltage alarm and LED indicator. It comes with a remote switch for turning it on or off.  Being a pure sine inverter, it runs quietly and efficiently and has two air conditioning fans on the side for cool operation.

• Stand Out Features - Why We Love It
• A pure sine wave inverter safe for the most sensitive equipment
• Low harmonic distortion with a THD <3%
• Low frequency inverter with soft start low interference tech
• Four charger sockets – 3 AC outlets and 1 USB port

Wave Form: Pure Sine Continuous Power: 2000W Peak Power: 4000W Dimension: 17.1 x 9.3 x 4 inches

Featuring GFCI only output, Xantrex PROwatt pure sine inverter is specifically designed for use on floating ground systems. This means that it works great when installed on water vessels and the low frequency pure sine wave can power even your most sensitive computer and entertainment equipment. All these qualities make it one of the most popular boating inverters. 

This top rated boat inverter has 1000W continuous output and is equipped with two GFCI AC receptacles and a built-in USB port. An LCD display shows volts and output power. As you can expect with a top notch pure sine inverter, charger operation is very efficient and quiet.  

Protective features include low voltage alarm and shutdown, over voltage protection, overload shutdown and over temperature shutdown. Xantrex makes reliable chargers and this one is no different. Quality is excellent all around and this is a good power inverter and tough enough to operate in 32°F to 104°F temperatures.

• GFCI only output charger ideal for boats
• True power pure sine inverter safe for sensitive devices
• A wide range of operating temperatures 32°F − 104°F
• Dual GFCI AC receptacles for safe operation

Wave Form: Pure Sine Continuous Power: 1000W Peak Power: 2000W Dimensions: 8.7 x 13.4 x 3.5 inches

For powering typical resistive loads such as appliances and lights, PowerBright 12-volt modified sine wave inverter is a reliable and cost effective charger. What separates it from many other inverters is the anodized aluminum casing and the sophisticated microprocessors and transistors housed inside it. They enable it to run more reliably and efficiently and last longer than other units in its class.  

2300W continuous power and 4600W surge rating make PowerBright a fairly strong inverter. If you’re concerned that it is a modified wave inverter, it uses sophisticated technology to protect even the most sensitive electronics. Its advanced transistors enable it to start and run difficult reactive loads such as freezers without overloading. Outlets include two 3-prong AC outlets (120V).  

You can connect the inverter directly to a battery, or plug it into a car lighter jack. The input and output wattages are displayed on the LED display. Safety features include an overload indicator, an audible low-voltage alarm and auto-shut off in case of overload, thermal or short circuit. Built-in cooling fan and heat sink design ensure the charger runs cool.

• Durable anodized aluminum casing
• More reliable and efficient than standard modified inverters
• Two 3-prong 120V AC outlets
• CE approved and ROHS compliant
• Efficiency up to 90 percent power factor
• Wireless remote control 150 ft. range included

Wave Form: Modified Sine Wave Dimensions: 18.25 x 12.25 x 6.50 inches Warranty: One Year

Go Power! 3000-Watt Heavy Duty High Wattage

With 3000W continuous power output, Go Power! heavy duty modified sine wave inverter is a high wattage power inverter that can power all the electronics, appliances and tools you have on your boat. If you have large boat power requirements, this is an excellent option. Build quality is also outstanding making it a reliable and durable inverter for boating. 

Although this is a modified sine wave inverter, it is among the outstanding options on the market and its marine power inverter reviews by users attest to this. 4 AC (120V) charger outlets to go with the 3000-watts output ensure you won’t run out of power or plugging outlets. If you would like to wire it into your electrical system, you can do so with an optional transfer switch.

Features and Operation 

A highly rated feature of the Go Power! is its quality construction. For your safety and that of your belongings, it’s equipped with over and under voltage protection, low-battery alarm and auto shutdown function when the battery is low as well as overload protection.

• Allows you to wire it into your electrical system
• High wattage power inverter for high power needs
• Four AC output outlets for powering multiple devices at once
• Heavy-duty build quality suitable for boating

Wave Form: Modified Sine Wave Continuous Output: 3000W Dimensions: 9.92 x 4.13 x 11.41 inches

Rally Marine Grade 400W USB Charging Port

Rally modified sine wave inverter is a solid basic choice if you just want a reliable and affordable power system for charging essential electronics while boating. It will give you 400W continuous output to charge your smart devices and camera and the corrosion resistant and marine certified build will ensure it will hold up well mounted on a boat.  

This is a modified sine wave inverter with 400W continuous and 800W peak output. While it won’t be good for powering a stove or a freezer, it will do a good job with cell phones, cameras or a music player with loudspeakers. Two AC ports as well as two USB ports give you powering flexibility.

For an inverter so small and affordable, the feature set is impressive. You even get a built-in map light. Different types of protection are included – thermal, overload, low battery shutdown and safe start with maximum output. Finally, you can check how everything is working on the LED indicator.

• Inexpensive basic power inverter for electronics
• Equipped with dual AC ports and two USB ports
• Designed in Miami and backed by a 2-year warranty
• Corrosion resistant and marine certified construction
• Replaceable fuses and handy built-in map light

Wave Form: Modified Sine Continuous Power: 400W Peak Power: 800W Dimensions: 2.88 x 7.56 x 8.56 inches

IpowerBingo Pure Sine Wave

If you would like a pure sine inverter on a limited budget, IpowerBingo 1200W pure sine wave is a fantastic option with great build quality, a great set of features and an accessible price tag. 1200 continuous watts of pure sine output means you can charge appliances and electronics with none of the equipment behaving erratically.

Charging outlets include two 110V AC outlets for charging your laptop, game console, fan, TV or even a fridge and a 3.1A USB Charging Ports great for fast charging your smartphone. The peak power rating is 2400 watts and you can see the battery and output voltage on the built-in LED display.

The included high gauge cables help you get up and running faster. Thanks to the aluminum alloy housing and cooling fan, the true pure sine wave inverter runs cool to touch and is also equipped with all the essential safety features from overvoltage to polarity reverse protection. 

• An affordable true pure sine power inverter
• High-quality aluminum inductance and high gauge cables
• Replaceable fuses and four spare fuses provided
• Runs quietly and at >90% peak efficiency rating
• Two AC outlets and a fast charging USB port
• Backed by an 18-months warranty

Wave Form: Pure Sine Continuous Power: 1200W Peak Power: 2400W Dimensions: 11.81 x 7.87 x 3.94 inches

Cantonape 1500W Pure Sine Wave

If you want a boat inverter with exceptional safety, Cantonape 1500W 1500-watt pure sine wave inverter fits the bill. In addition to being a pure wave device, it shields your electronics and itself with 6 different types of protection – overload, short circuit, overheating, reverse polarity as well as under and over voltage. A pure sine inverter at its price range, it also offers fantastic value for money. 

Cantonape delivers 1500W continuously while surge capacity is 3000W. This makes it good for larger appliances like a fridge or power tools you may need on the boat. Being a true pure sine wave inverter, it’s a great choice for all the sensitive electronics. You have two AC outlets to work with.

The stated energy efficiency is over 90%. You can see the battery and output voltage on the built-in display and the cooling fan adjusts its speed according to the internal temperature. With a rugged aluminum body, this boat inverter stands up to the harsh marine environment. Cantonape also sends you spare fuses in the package and gives you a 1-year warranty.

• Pure sine wave true power inverter
• Highly efficient with efficiency over 90%
• Powerful for inductive loads and safe for sensitive devices
• 6 types of safety features and replaceable fuses

Wave Form: Pure Sine Continuous Power: 1500W Peak Power: 3000W Size: 12.6 x 5.9 x 2.76 inches

ProMariner True Power 2000PS Charger

In addition to being an automatic true sine wave inverter, ProMariner 2000PS true power inverter doubles as a battery charger. The duo function and the durable construction makes it an excellent investment for you boat. Of course, all these features raise the price a little higher that the other options on our marine power inverter reviews but you’re also getting unmatched value for money.  

2000W continuous output is plenty of power to run a boat. And this is pure sine wave you can confidently use to charge even the sensitive audio and visual systems. As a battery charger, it puts out a true 70 amps and is capable of powering a 12V battery. 7 charger profiles to choose from and 3 stages of charging allow you to optimally charge your battery.

A fantastic thing about this top rated boat inverter is the ease of use. The inverter and charger are fully automatic and the included manual is clear and straightforward. As you can expect with a pure sine wave inverter, the ProMariner 2000PS runs efficiently and without an annoying buzz.

• An inverter and battery charger in one device
• Fully automatic with an instant AC transfer switch
• True power inverter yielding pure sine wave
• Battery charger has seven profiles and three stages
• True inverter runs efficiently and quietly

Wave Form: Pure Sine Continuous Output: 2000W Battery Capacity: 70 amps Dimensions: 25 x 12 x 13 inches

How To Choose The Best Marine Power Inverter – Buying Guide

Continuous Wattage

A good power inverter is powerful enough to power all the devices you use on the water. The manufacturer will state the continuous wattage and peak wattage. The continuous wattage rating shows you how many appliances the charger is capable of running at the same time.

You can check the wattage on the devices you’ll be charging and sum the wattage to determine your power requirements. For appliances showing amps, you can covert these into watts by multiplying with volts. For example – 2 amps x 120 volts = 240 watts.

It’s always a good idea to buy a larger charger than your power sum to avoid overloading and also because marine inverters have about 90% efficiency. Of course, the best marine power inverters with higher wattage are going to cost more.

Inverters can have either be modified or pure sine wave forms. Modified sine wave inverters are generally more budget-friendly and a solid power source for most things. On the other hand, pure sine wave inverters have better efficiency power factor – they create more power and give out clean power similar to the one at home. This is why this type of waveform is recommended for more sensitive electronics to work properly.

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Other Features

Some additional features can make the boat charger both easier and safer to use. Some products have power, voltage and battery monitors. You can also get chargers with additional power outlets, and USB ports. Having an efficient cooling fan is also a good idea to prevent the charger from overheating and causing harm.

The inverter should be designed in such a way to control power surges so there is no damage to sensitive electronics like your computer, cell phone or stereo. An inverter that comes with a remote control panel offers greater convenience. Finally, there are inverter-chargers with battery chargers integrated – this means they can power-up the batteries when plugged with shore power or generator.

Batteries and Wiring

Inverters need a steady supply from the batteries to covert direct current to alternating current. They run on a 12V battery, and larger inverters drain a lot of power from your battery bank. So choose a good marine battery or powerful battery bank to run it and handle it according to manufacturer’s instructions to get the best life. You can buy a battery charger and plug to a shore power line or generator.

There are also engine alternators which can recharge the battery while the engine is running. Alternatives are solar panels or wind generators, or you can invest in an inverter with a charging function. When it comes to installation and wiring, you should follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Keep in mind that the inverter converts the DC power to 120V AC, which can cause electric shock and serious injury.

Q: What Do Power Inverters Do and How?

Power inverters use the 12V power from the marine battery to translate it to 120V AC which you can use for powering appliances on-board, when you head out to sea. Because it uses batteries to do this, if you don’t have some sort of backup system it’s a good idea to have separate batteries for this.

Q: Why Choose Marine Power Inverters over Auto Power Inverters?

Marine power inverters generally represent a higher quality power source, and a better choice for sensitive electronics. This is especially true for pure sine wave inverters.

On the other hand, auto power inverters are usually modified sine wave type. This is a more cost-effective charger solution, and they don’t have such high requirements as marine power inverters. They are used to power small devices through the car lighter jack.

Q: How Much Power Does an Inverter Need and How Much Does It Produce?

An inverter needs a 12V battery source. Larger inverters will drain the battery quicker, so it’s good to have more than one battery for this, or a charging solution. As for the power it produces, it can range from very small inverters with 100W output to large chargers which give out over 3000 continuous watts.

Q: Where Should the Inverter Be Installed?

General recommendation is to hardwire the inverter as near the battery banks as possible. The distance should be under 10ft, to avoid unnecessary power loss and voltage drops, as well as to reduce the chances of a hazard occurring. The place where you store it should be dry and ventilated (getting a waterproof power inverter for boat is a good idea), and this goes for storing the battery too.

Globo Surf Overview

Boat inverters present a very reliable AC power source to meet your power needs when you’re not docked. Investing in a good power inverter allows you to have a steady AC supply on board. Compared to a generator, inverter chargers don’t require fuel or an exhaust system and they’re more reliable than shore power. It comes down to your particular needs when choosing the best marine power inverter, but if you follow the guidelines we give here you won’t go wrong.

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• Best Power Inverters – The Complete Guide

Best Power Inverters – The Complete Guide

Best power inverters, best power inverter brand.

Marine or land vehicle, ProMariner is one of the leading brands out there. They’ve been in the battery and power supply industry for over 35 years and own almost a dozen brands that cover a variety of battery and electrical applications. Their brands include Ancor, BEP, Blue Sea Systems, CZone, Lenco Marine, Marinco, Marinco Power Products, Mastervolt, ParkerPower, Progressive Industries, and ProMariner. They specialize in both marine and RV electrical systems.

>>Browse ProMariner Inverters on Amazon

Best Power Inverter for a Boat

Promariner true power plus inverter.

For a marine application you need an inverter that is not only shock resistant but can also stand up to the moisture around it. ProMariner’s TruePower Plus Power Inverters are the ideal choice. This model comes in 1000W Pure Sine, 1200W Modified Sine, 1500W Modified Sine, and a 2000W Pure Sine options.

Each model has all the safety mechanisms built right in including protection from circuit overload, overheating, short circuit, and reverse polarity. There is an audible alarm and automatic shut down for too low or too high of DC voltage. An on/off remote is included with the 9 foot cable and DC covers are included to protect the connections from the elements.

Additionally a on-unit dual color display provides immediate feedback on the DC to AC output, DC input and system status message area. This model is the perfect setup for a boat or even RV.

>>Check ProMariner True Power Plus Inverter Prices on Amazon

Best Power Inverter for a Car or Truck

Energizer en (pictured) and enk series power inverters.

It’s tough to go wrong with a trusted brand like Energizer. With all the cheap Chinese models available online, going with a name you can trust is a must. Energizer offers a 100W, 500W, 1100W, 1500W, 2000W, 3000W and all the way up to a 4000W for your car, truck or SUV .

These energizer power inverters are modified sine wave inverters, but as mentioned earlier, should be fine for most applications. The 1100W model should suffice for most car and truck drivers, although the higher rated models are also available. Just be sure to check your car or truck’s electrical system beforehand to see if it can handle the power that the inverter will draw.

>>Check Energizer Power Inverter Prices on Amazon

Best Power Inverter for a RV

Magnum energy magnasine 3000w power inverter.

ProMariner power inverters are listed as the best brand, but Magnum Energy comes in close second. Their power inverters are incredibly reliable, offer versatile mounting positions, and are overall just well made products. For a RV, you probably won’t need a marine grade inverter, however you’re more likely to have a greater power need.

For a RV our pick is the Magnum Energy MSH3012M 3000W Pure Sine Inverter Charger Hybrid . This inverter is everything you’ll need and then some. It has all the typical protection points you’ll need and has a 5-stage charging capability. If you plan on being on the road a lot, this is the best option. Even if you don’t have a use for 2000W-3000W you can rest easy in the future knowing your system can handle the extra TV, the kids’ gaming system, or whatever unplanned item finds its way onto your RV.

>>Check Magnum Energy MagnaSine Prices on Amazon

What is a Power Inverter and What Does It Do?

Simply said, a power inverter allows you to use nearly any device, that requires your standard home wall outlet, in your boat, car, or RV. The current that runs through your typical wall outlet runs is called an Alternating Current or AC. Cars, Boats, RVs, Trucks and other vehicles use what’s called Direct Current, or DC power.

In a metaphorical sense, AC power speaks one language, say Spanish, and DC power speakers another, say English. An inverter is the translator between Spanish and English and allows one current to be converted to the other. For most applications, DC power is being converted into AC so people can watch TV, charge their phones, run refrigerators, and use other items that require an alternating current.

Types of Inverters

Standalone inverter.

Your standard inverter is called a ‘standalone inverter’, or simply a ‘power inverter.’ This takes the direct current and converts it into an alternating current.

Inverter-Charger Combo

An inverter-charger combo is different from a regular power inverter in that it has 2 modes. The first being the regular inverter mode in which it converts DC power to AC power. The second, differing mode is standby or charging mode. In this mode, the inverter converts incoming AC power to charge the DC source, or use the incoming AC power to power the AC devices.

Think of it as a two-way street vs. a one-way street. A standalone inverter can only move electricity one way, from DC to AC. While an inverter-charger can convert DC to AC, and AC to DC.

Modified Sine vs. True / Pure Sine Inverters

You’ll notice in the title or description inverters are labeled as ‘true / pure sine’ or ‘modified sine’ inverters. Without getting too technical, pure sine is essentially a more accurate AC current. It’s truer than a modified one and many electronics require a true sine inverter to function.

The main difference between the two is price and performance. Modified sine inverters are significantly cheaper than pure sine inverters, however their performance suffers in certain electronics. Radios or speakers may sound worse due to interference and damage may be caused by the additional heat caused by slight inefficiencies in a modified sine inverter.

So, which should you buy?

If you ask me, it all comes down to use-case. A lot of electronics will work just fine with a modified sine inverter. However, if you plan on powering sensitive medical equipment, like a CPAP machine (especially one with a humidifier), a radio or other item where sound quality matters, or a device or appliance that uses a brushless motor or rectifier, buy a pure sine inverter. Otherwise, a modified sine inverter will usually work just fine.

Continuous vs. Peak Power Ratings

A word of caution – be sure to pay attention to the wording used in listings online or on a package. “1000 Watts Peak Power!” is much different from “1000 Watts Continuous Power!” Peak power is what the inverter is able to handle in short bursts for a very short period of time. Continuous power is what the inverter can handle for a longer, sustained period of time.

The only time peak power will be relevant is on start up of some devices where there is a larger wattage or amp pull. Although, there would have to be a significant gap in the peak handling power vs. the continuous

Watts, Amps, and Volts – What do they all mean!?

Watts, Amps, and Volts are all essentially ways of expressing energy in electrical form. This post isn’t meant to be a science lesson, so here’s the practical information you’ll need to understand how they interact with each other.

WATT = (AMP) x (VOLT)

Yup, that’s it. Watts is equal to amps times volts. Most boats, cars, trucks and RVs run on a 12 volt system, so we’ll use that to calculate the your power needs down below.

Sizes of Inverters

Inverters are sold based on their wattage size. They typically range from a few hundred watts, all the way up to several thousand watts. If you only need to power a few small electronics like a phone, toaster, or charge a laptop, a 700 or so watt inverter will be more than enough, and your current battery will support it most likely. However, for larger applications, you will want to make specific calculations, which you can find help with below.

You need to make sure your current system can support the size of inverter you purchase. Other factors besides the posted rating will affect your current system’s output like age of battery, temperature, condition, etc. A general rule of thumb for 12V systems is you need a 1:10 ratio of DC input to AC output. So, for a 1000 watt inverter, you’ll need at least 100amps from the battery source.

What Size Inverter Do I Need?

Devices have different have different initial pulls and continuous use. What you’ll want to do is create a list of all the electronics you plan on running off the inverter. Add up the wattage and amperage displayed on those devices.

For example, let’s assume you plan on hooking up a microwave, 32” television, portable refrigerator, and your laptop charger. Open up Excel and create something like the setup below.

Note: When looking at any electronic that has some sort of heating element, look at the input power . The input power is what the device actually draws from the power source. A microwave labeled as 900W is likely pulling 1300W or more. You can find this in the item’s manual.

Note 2: Some electronics won’t provide the ampere pull, so you’ll have to do a little math to figure that out with the Watts=Amp(Volts) formula.

Note 3: Items that have motors or compressors will usually have higher ratings than what is printed on them. For example, in the case of a refrigerator with a compressor, it will have a higher pull (sometimes called a ‘surge’) rating each time it has to kick on vs. the average or continuous rating it may indicate. You will want to contact the manufacturer to obtain the startup wattage and amp pull. This is sometimes also referred to as “surge.” It’s common in vacuums, power tools, and other items with a brushless motor.

Microwave (FARBERWARE FMO07ABTBKQ): 1050W / 8.75A / 120V

32” TV (TCL 32D100): 45W / 2.67A / 120V

Portable Refrigerator (Whynter FM-45G): 65W / .75A / 115V

Laptop Charger (Dell Replacement HK65NM130): 65W / 3.33A / 19.5V

Total: 1225W / 15.5A

Now that we have our total, 1225W and 15.5A. This is assuming all electronics are running at exactly the same time. The microwave is heating something, the TV is on, the fridge’s compressor is running, and a laptop is charging – not recommended to run all at once unless your system can handle it, but not unlikely. The big thing to pay attention to here, is what is drawing the most and how much.

Looking at the numbers, the microwave is drawing the most amount of electricity and this item will not be running the entire time. Likely, only a few minutes at a time, if that. Furthermore, you probably won’t want to run the microwave until the generator/alternator is running or you’re connected to shore power.

We don’t notice it on land or at home, but microwaves draw a ton of power relative to other appliances.

For practical purposes, let’s just assume you’ll only be using the microwave while the engine is running. All other items are running from the power inverter.

Removing the microwave, that puts the total at 175W and 6.75A. A very reasonable number and one that is easy to work with.

So you only need a 200W inverter right?

Here’s why.

Inverters need power to operate themselves, and 100% efficiency isn’t available just yet. You’ll need to account for these factors along with electronics you may want to plug in and use apart from those just mentioned. A good rule of thumb is to purchase an inverter that is at least double what your planned usage is.

A 400W inverter would be a good choice here, although 500W would probably be better.

What about the microwave?

Microwaves pull a lot of power and if you’re not connected to shore power or running a generator, then that bag of popcorn can drain your batteries very quickly. At minimum, a 3000W inverter would be ideal for the setup mentioned here. It’ll be ideal to have a small battery bank of sorts, which I’ve covered more in depth here.

Why do Amps matter?

But wait, why do the amps matter?

Amps matter as they will provide info to how long your battery (or battery bank) will last without it being charged, or while being used by the inverter. There has to be an external source recharging the power source, like an alternator for power to be harvested and that has to be equal to or above what is being drawn from the battery if using without a generator or recharging on shore power when low.

To put it in simpler terms, if you have $10 in the bank and work deposits $10 in your checking account every week and you pull $11 out every week, you’re pulling money at a -$1 deficit and will eventually run out of money. The same goes for the battery, it has to be continually replenished or very full, in order for power to be drawn from it.

In order to continually run your electronics, you will need to have a generator replenishing that electricity, such as a high output alternator, recharging at shore power when low, solar panels, wind generators, etc.

Calculating Amp Usage

Now you need to estimate how much time each of your electronics will last before the next charge. Insert your estimated time usage in column H in the excel file. Now use the following formula to calculate the amp hours you will be pulling from the battery supply.

(Total Watts/12)(1.1)(Hours) = Amp Hours

Let’s not forget – there are other factors that will also play into this calculation. For one, it’s not good for the overall life of the battery to run it completely down to zero. Instead, only 80% or less of the battery’s total life should be used. Furthermore, different types of batteries (lead acid, zinc-air, carbon zinc, etc.) have different rates of discharge. I will be covering those in this article.

In our example, without the microwave, we’d use 288.75 amp hours if using each device for 6 hours total before another charge. As already mentioned, it’s not good for a battery to be completely drained of its reserve, then quickly recharged. Nor is it good for a battery to be drained below roughly 20% of its total power.  There are batteries specifically built for these purposes called, ‘deep-cycle batteries,’ but those are covered in another article.

Instead, you should double the total amp hours you have calculated, (288.75)(2) = 577.5, and then add another 20%, (577.5)(1.20) = 693. This will help to ensure your batteries last long and do not fall short of their intended lifespan.

In an absolutely optimal scenario, you will need roughly 700Ah of power to run those 3 items at those specs for 6 hours before needing to turn on a generator 0or the motor. You can have a smaller bank of power, but keep in mind they will need to be charged more frequently in order to run all of the electronics accounted for at the 6 hour time frame indicated.

Learn more about types of batteries click here .

Features to Look For

You’ve done the calculations and now know how much power you’re going to need. What additional features should you be looking for on top of just having an inverter?

Pure Sine vs. Modified Sine

As mentioned earlier, pure sine is preferred, but if you’re working on a budget a modified sine inverter will work fine for most applications.

Remote Control / Display

Being able to know current usage is incredibly important with any sort of electrical system. Some inverters will have a built-in display while others, like Magnum’s Magna Sine inverter, have a remote display that can be attached just about anywhere on the boat. This is a wired remote, not a wireless one.

Low Electrical Interference

EMI stands for electromagnetic interference which can cause problems with all sorts of important equipment on your vessel. While I won’t get into the specifics of what an inverter can cause problems with, most new high-end inverters have little to no interference. Some cheaper, Chinese made inverters can cause electrical interference problems.

Voltage Alarms

Having too high of voltage or too low of voltage can cause damage to your system. An inverter with a built-in voltage detector can shut off the inverter before it causes damage to the entire unit.

Overload warnings / protection

During regular usage some may forget how many items are actually running off of the inverter. All it takes is one electronic that has a startup spike or surge, to cause a fuse to blow in the inverter, rendering it useless until replaced. An overload warning helps to notify you there is a spike and you need to lessen the load, or it will shut down automatically to protect itself from damage.

120V/240V capabilities

Depending on what kind of system you have, having 120V or 240V capabilities offers you some flexibility.

Reverse Polarity Protection

Not as common on mid to lower end models, but just as important. While the name sounds confusing, it really just means protection against accidentally misconnecting wires. The positive and negative ends of a battery indicate the polarity, and if accidentally mixed up, can essentially fry the power inverter, rendering it useless.

Difference Between AC and DC Power

Going back to high school trigonometry, AC and DC currents can be expressed as waveforms. If you recall, which I didn’t until entering it into my old but trusty graphing calculator, sin(x) is a perfectly sloping wave going up and down at a regular interval.

Notice how, in the image, the current alternates up and down (or in a diagram, forward and backward) . Your electronics are fed a constant supply of electricity that alternates back and forth. This probably doesn’t make a whole of sense by that sentence, so I highly recommend checking out water analogy, shown by Spark Fun Electronics (opens in a new tab).

In that example it becomes much clearer how electricity flows. You can see that it moves forward and backwards relative to the power supply.

On the other hand, car battery systems use a current system that supplies a direct and consistent level of voltage. Again using a water analogy, imagine a bucket of water with a hole on the bottom connected to a hose. If you fill this with water, the water will flow out of the bottom of the hose until it’s empty. This is essentially how DC power works. There’s a power supply that will feed whatever device it’s connected to until it’s empty.

This is why cars, RVs, trucks, and boats need to have some sort of charger in their system. In most cases, this is what is called the alternator. The alternator runs off energy produced by the gas and engine to charge the battery while the system is running, since your car’s electrical system is continually pulling power from the battery. Think of the alternator as a person that helps to refill that bucket and keep it from going empty.

For anyone that has ever worked on cars, finding the alternator is an easy job, but what about a boat? Most boats nowadays have an alternator or some other sort of charger built into the motor, especially for outboard ones.

A few final recommendations. As with everything, safety first. If you are unsure of what you are doing, heck even if you are sure, have a professional nearby for instruction and supervision. Electricity isn’t anything to mess around with.

Secondly, always buy at least a couple hundred volts up from what’s planned. You never know when you’ll have a guest, or extra electronic that makes its way onto your boat or RV that could end up overloading your system. Additionally the calculations made in this article do not take into account other factors that will affect your system such as wire length, current battery health, etc.

Third, document everything! Be sure to draw diagrams, keep manuals, and have all this information close by in the case of a breakdown or emergency. Proper documentation now, will save you frustration and time in the future.

Lastly, while there may be nothing wrong with the no-name brands on Amazon, Ebay, or elsewhere online, keep in mind you will likely not have a warranty with any of them. In the event the no-name inverter fails, fries your current system, or damages your electronics, you probably won’t be able to receive any customer service let alone compensation for damaged goods. Buy from a trusted brand in the first place so you don’t run into bigger issues down the line by trying to save a few hundred dollars.

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Best Marine Inverters of 2024

A marine inverter converts your boat’s 12 volt DC battery power supply into 120 volt AC power. Most marine electronics run on 12 volt DC power, but having a 120 volt AC option means that you can bring your appliances from home, anything from a coffee maker to a computer, and plug them in onboard. If you want these appliances to work reliably on your boat, you’ll need one of the best marine inverters to supply their power needs!

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Autopilot for Sailboats .

Quick Answer - The Best Marine Inverters

• Xantrex Prowatt Sw 1000 View at Amazon
• Promariner Truepower 2000PS View at Amazon
• Magnum MS2000 View at Amazon
• Mastervolt Combimaster View at Amazon

Comparison Table - Best Marine Inverters

Reviews - The Best Marine Inverters for Sailing

Xantrex prowatt sw 1000.

• Type : Portable Inverter
• Output Waveform : Pure Sine Wave
• Outlets : 2 Standard, 1 USB
• Continuous/Peak Wattage : 1000/2000
• Pure Sine Wave Output Supports Sensitive Appliances Or Variable Speed Motors
• External DC Terminal Studs Connect Easily To Your Battery
• Built-In Over-Voltage, Over-Temperature, and Overload Protection

BEST BUDGET PURE SINE WAVE INVERTER

Pure sine wave inverters are more expensive than modified sine wave inverters, but this popular unit brings pure sine wave performance to the marine market at a very accessible price. That price doesn’t cut into the functions: this inverter will support electronics, dimmers, power tools, and similar devices. It’s also compact and portable and will work as well in your car or RV as it will on your boat. There’s a full suite of information and protective features and enough surge capacity to deal with startup requirements.

If you need to run devices that you aren’t willing to risk with a modified sine wave inverter, your power needs are low enough to run on a 1000 watt device, and you don’t want to spend a fortune, this inverter will meet your power needs without fuss or frills.

Promariner Truepower 2000PS

• Continuous/Peak Wattage : 2000/4000
• High 2000 Watt Capacity With 4000 Watt Surge Protection Handles Larger Appliances
• Full Range Of Automatic Protection Features With Alarms And Automatic Shut Down
• On/Off Remote
• Soft Start Noise Filtering For Quiet Operation

BEST PORTABLE MARINE INVERTER

The ProMariner TruePower 2000PS steps the game up a degree. It’s almost twice as expensive as the Xantrex ProWatt SW 1000, but it delivers twice the capacity and surge protection, giving you far more options if you need to run more devices or more powerful devices. This is a fully portable unit but it can compete with many of the larger installation-oriented charger/inverters, as long as you don’t need battery charging capacity.

This inverter matches its 2000 watt running capacity and 4000-watt surge buffer with a full suite of safety features, delivering audible warnings for hazardous conditions and shutting down automatically if safe operating parameters are exceeded. If you’re at a berth and hooked up to offboard power the inverter will kick in within 30 milliseconds to deliver continuous power if the main power is cut. This is a fully-featured unit that will meet the demands of boaters who need more power capacity and expect the highest quality but who want to stick to a portable inverter.

Magnum MS2000

• Type : Inverter/Charger
• Outlets : Single Hard-Wired AC
• Continuous/Peak Wattage : 2000/3300
• Cooling Fans Prevent Overheating
• Sturdy Case And Coated Circuit Boards For Durability In Marine Conditions
• 5-Stage Smart Charger For Fast Charging And Extended Battery Life
• Multi-Option Programmable Setup For Customized Operation

BEST MARINE INVERTER/CHARGER FOR FIXED INSTALLATION

The Magnum MS2000, unlike the units reviewed above, is not portable. It’s designed to be a permanent part of your boat’s electrical system. It serves as both an inverter and a charger, turning your battery’s DC power into AC power to run hard-wired AC outlets and also accepting offboard power to charge your battery. The inverter supplies 2000 watts of continuous power, enough to run multiple appliances, with the capacity to run sensitive devices like dimmer switches and plasma TVs. The charger uses a 5-stage smart charging system to speed up charging and protect your battery.

This is a rugged unit fully suited for marine use, with a durable external housing and coated circuit boards to reduce corrosion. It will accept 12 volt or 24 volt DC power and offers a full range of safety and overload/underload protection. If you’re using shore-based power the inverter will shift to battery power and provide continuous power if the main power is cut off. This is a premium unit designed to meet the power needs of discriminating sailors with full-featured boats.

Mastervolt Combimaster

• Continuous/Peak Wattage : 2000/3000
• Automatic Switching Between Main And Battery Power
• User Friendly, Reliable Design For Easy Operation
• Intelligent 3-Step Charger For Fast, Safe Charging

BEST MARINE INVERTER/CHARGER FOR SENSITIVE DEVICES

This is another inverter/charger designed for permanent installation. Power capacity is exceptional, with a full 2000 watts of continuous power and a 3000-watt peak load capacity. 

This European-made unit meets stricter electrical standards than those in the US. A test by Practical Sailor magazine found that this unit’s harmonic distortion rating, a measure of how compatible the device is with sensitive electronics, was only 1.5%, lower than any other tested. Electromagnetic interference was also minimal, which reduces the possible impact on navigation or communication systems.

Aside from the very low interference and distortion ratings, this high-end inverter-charger offers virtually every feature you would expect, and some that you wouldn’t. Smart charging takes good care of your batteries and all of the safety features you need to protect your boat, your electrical system, and your appliances are there. If you want AC power in your boat and you expect to run sensitive electronics on that power, you’ll want to take a close look at this inverter/charger.

THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING A MARINE INVERTER

Lower-priced inverters produce a modified sine wave output, which is acceptable for less sensitive devices but may yield poor performance from more sensitive electronics. More expensive pure sine wave inverters produce output that is the same as outlet power and can be used with any device. Inverter/chargers also offer the ability to receive shore-based AC current and use it to charge your batteries. Remember that no inverter will create power. You’ll have to be sure that the drain on your inverter is not exceeding the capacity of your batteries!

UNDERSTAND INVERTERS

An inverter converts 12 volt DC battery power to 120 volt AC power. Most marine electronics and other devices designed purely for onboard use run on battery power, but if you want to use shore-based appliances on board you need 120 volt AC power, and that means you need an inverter. Inverters come in many types and sizes to meet many different needs. These are some of the common types.

Modified sine wave inverters produce AC current that mimics the characteristics of the power in your home, but doesn’t quite duplicate it. The distinguishing feature is relatively high harmonic resonance, which makes them incompatible with sensitive electronics, variable-speed electric motors, dimmer switches, and other devices that are picky about their power inputs. Modified sine wave inverters are often small and easily portable and are usually inexpensive. If your power needs are not extensive and do not involve delicate appliances they may serve your needs.

Pure sine wave inverters produce a current that is essentially identical to the output of your home’s electrical system. They are usually larger and more expensive than modified sine wave inverters but can be used with a wider range of devices.

Portable inverters are small, light, and can be easily carried from place to place. They may connect to your battery system through a cigarette lighter or by direct terminals. They usually have AC outlets that you can plug appliances into and often have a USB outlet for charging mobile devices. They are often limited in their output but can be excellent choices for occasional use or on smaller vessels. They can work from any 12 volt DC power source so they can be useful in a car or RV as well as a boat.

Fixed inverters and inverter/chargers are made to be a permanent installation. They don’t have electrical outlets but are wired into your boat’s electrical system. Inverter chargers turn your battery’s DC power into AC power but they can also be wired to shore-based power and used to charge your batteries.

Safety features are built into many inverters. These often include audible alerts when a parameter is approaching safety limits and automatic shutdown when safe limits are reached. The parameters often covered often include low or high input power, excessive demand, excessive temperature, and others.

Digital readouts give you information on your electrical system at a glance. Many inverters will give you a continuous indication of current demand, remaining battery power, and other key information.

Inverter power output is measured in watts. Most inverters have a limit for continuous load and another limit for peak load. Many AC appliances deliver a power surge on startup, so those peak loads are important.

Electromagnetic interference. Most inverters produce some degree of electromagnetic interference, which can interfere with communication or navigation equipment. Avoid installing or using an inverter close to your critical electronic equipment.

KNOW YOUR LOAD

You’ll need to know how much power you will need your inverter to produce at any one time. If you have a smaller inverter you may not be able to run more than a few appliances at the same time. You may be able to run the coffee maker or the microwave, but not both!

Review your onboard appliances, look at the watt ratings, and think about what items you may need to operate at the same time. Calculate the largest total watt load you expect to place on your inverter and try to select an inverter that can accept that load, or ideally a bit more.

KNOW YOUR BATTERIES

An inverter does not create power. The power comes from your batteries. If you buy a large inverter you may be able to plug in a lot of appliances but the load on your battery will be substantial and the battery may be depleted very quickly.

In general, the amp-hour output of your battery should be at least 20% of the inverter’s watt capacity. A 2000-watt inverter requires at least 400 Ah of battery capacity. If the inverter is drawing at full capacity it will still use 50% of your battery power in 1 hour.

It is usually not practical to run continuous-load devices like a refrigerator or air conditioner on inverter power unless you have a very large, high-capacity battery bank. Inverters are better suited to low-level continuous loads like operating a computer or short-term higher-drain loads like running a coffee maker or blender. 

GENERATOR OR INVERTER?

Both generators and inverters produce AC power. Each has advantages and disadvantages.

Generators are not tied to your battery capacity and can even charge your battery. They are limited only by their capacity and the amount of fuel you have onboard. They are also bulky and can be noisy, and they require a substantial fuel supply that can be a fire hazard on board.

Inverters are silent, often portable, and easy to install, but they are limited by your battery capacity.

Most small boat owners prefer inverters, while generators are more often found on larger boats. Many owners of larger boats use a generator for peak loads, often in the evening, and battery charging and use an inverter during off-peak periods

INSTALLATION

Your inverter will probably be the largest single load on your battery when it is running at capacity, and your wiring should be able to handle that load. There are some places where inverters should not be installed.

• Never install an inverter in a confined space with any possibility of flammable gas accumulation.
• Never install an inverter close to critical communication or navigation equipment.

If you’re not sure you know what you’re doing, consult a professional. Fixed inverter-chargers should always be installed by a qualified marine electrician.

West Marine has a useful guide to selecting an inverter or inverter/charger , and Boat US contributes its own review of inverters .

SPECS AND FEATURES EXPLAINED

Output waveform.

Marine inverters fall into two types: modified sine wave and pure sine wave. Without going into the (very) technical details, modified sine wave inverters produce a lower-quality current that may not be compatible with delicate or demanding devices. Pure sine wave inverters produce a current that is equal or superior to grid power. Some users report that their TV has less interference and a better image with a pure sine wave inverter than it does at home! Current quality is sometimes measured as harmonic resonance, which should be below 5%. Lower is better.

INVERTER TYPE

Inverters may be portable or fixed and are usually either pure inverters or inverter/chargers.

OUTPUT POWER

An inverter’s power output is measured in watts.

Maximum continuous power is the highest watt load that the inverter can handle on a continuing basis.

Peak power capacity measures the inverter’s capacity to handle power surges. This is an important feature because many AC appliances use a surge of power as they start.

Portable inverters usually have power outlets that devices can be plugged into. They often have a mix of conventional 3-prong and USB outlets, so mobile devices can be charged without taking up a conventional outlet.

TERMINAL STUDS

Terminal studs are an easy, convenient, and effective way of connecting the battery to the inverter. Some portable inverters are set up to draw power through a cigarette lighter, but this may cause uneven power input.

ALERTS AND CUTOFFS

Many inverters use a system of audible alerts and automatic cutoffs for safety. An audible alert sounds when a monitored parameter is nearing an unsafe level and the device shuts off automatically when the safe level is exceeded. The measured parameters may include input power, power load, operating temperature, and others.

REMOTE CONTROLS

Some inverters accept remote control systems that allow them to be turned on and off or monitored from a distance.

NOISE FILTERING

Some inverters produce an audible and sometimes annoying hum when operating. Noise filtering reduces the inverter’s noise level.

INTELLIGENT CHARGING

Inverter/chargers usually have customized charging systems that deliver different power levels at different stages of charging. This charges the battery faster and extends its life.

AUTOMATIC SWITCHING

If you’re at a berth and charging your batteries you may also be using the offboard power supply to run your onboard appliances. Automatic switching will move your power draw from the offboard power supply automatically and almost instantly if the offboard power supply is cut off.

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The Boat Galley

making boat life better

Boat Life: Inverters 101

Published on June 6, 2012 ; last updated on January 20, 2023 by Carolyn Shearlock

Two points I want to make right at the beginning of this article:  I am NOT a marine electrician and this article is NOT intended to provide all the answers you may need on the topic of inverters.  It’s designed to be an introductory article, and yes, in places I have deliberately kept the explanation simple and not discussed all the possible variations.  The goal is to keep it non-techie!

Note that some of the most important things to know are at the bottom of this article, so if you’re considering purchasing an inverter, be sure to read the final few sections.  I don’t recommend any specific models, for two reasons:  everyone’s needs are different, and models are constantly changing.

Additionally, I’m discussing US/Canadian/Mexican appliances and power needs (110/120 volt) — I have very little experience with European 220/240 volt systems!

What’s an Inverter?

Most boats have 12-volt DC power on board, from batteries.  Things that you plug into a cigarette lighter run on 12 volts.  Things that have a “normal” household plug run on 110/120 volts AC.

An inverter takes the 12-volt DC power coming from the batteries and converts it into 110/120 volt AC power that you can plug “regular” plugs into.

Portable vs. Whole Boat Inverters

Portable inverters are very simple.  They plug into a cigarette lighter and have one or more “regular” outlets, such as that shown at right.  They come in several different styles — some have cords that go to the cigarette lighter, some have more than one outlet, some (such as this one) also have a USB outlet for charging electronics.

Portable inverters are convenient as there’s basically no installation, they’re easy to put wherever you need them and they’re relatively cheap.

The downside is that you can’t use them for anything that needs a lot of power (more on this below).  Microwaves, blenders, and vacuum cleaners are just some of the things that usually won’t work on a portable inverter.

For larger electrical loads, you need a permanently-installed inverter.  They are usually installed by a marine electrician — because of the electrical currents involved with both fire and electrocution a possibility if not done right, it’s not something to do yourself if you’re not trained.  Every installation is different, it seems, but basically this type of inverter is larger and installed in a locker in an out-of-the-way location.  It’s permanently wired to the boat’s batteries (often, it’s a combination inverter/charger that also handles charging the boat’s batteries from shore power).  Most times, there is a switch to turn the inverter on when needed.

Depending on how your boat is wired, you may have to plug things into the inverter (as in the case on our new boat, Barefoot Gal ). Other boats (such as our previous boat, Que Tal ) have the inverter wired to regular household-type outlets in convenient locations in the boat that you can plug things into.  If so, you’ll usually have to both turn the inverter on and flip a switch on the “AC” power panel to energize those outlets.

Inverter Size

Inverters are sized in watts.  Luckily, most appliances are also labeled as to how much power they draw in watts.  For example, my microwave is 1200 watts. The inverter must have a larger watt rating than the item you’re using, including the “start-up load” (discussed below).

Some appliances, however, only state their electrical “draw” in amps.  But if you know the amps, you can calculate the watts.  Use the equation:

amps x 120 = watts

So, a regular household appliance — say a mini-blender — that draws 5 amps is the same as 600 watts.

In general, portable inverters range in size from 75 watts to 400 watts.  Most cigarette lighters can handle the 75, 150 and 200 watt inverters and associated loads.

However, a 400-watt load can be too much for many, and will blow the internal fuse or trip the breaker.  If you are thinking of buying a 400-watt portable inverter, make sure that your cigarette outlet(s) can handle it.  The receptacle itself, the fuse, the wiring and the breaker on your electrical panel all have to be capable of handling the load — and many aren’t.  (A 400-watt load is going to pull ± 35 amps DC.)

Because of this, once you get over 400 watts, almost all inverters are designed to be hard-wired into the boat’s electrical system.

“Start-Up Load”

Okay, now I’m going to confuse the issue a little more.  In the last step, I talked about determining the load of the appliance you intend to use with the inverter.  But its regular “running” draw isn’t the only thing you need to know.

Most electrical motors use more power for just a few seconds when they are first turned on.  It can also be a bit of an issue for some electronics, although it’s not usually near as large of a problem.

Figuring out the initial surge draw can be tough.  Manufacturers almost never state this and I’ve never seen a “rule of thumb.”

There are two ways to deal with this:

• Don’t use an inverter that’s just barely adequate for the running load — use at least the next size larger.
• Better inverters usually can handle a brief surge — look for this is the specs.  For example, a 400-watt inverter may say “peak surge: 1000 watts.”

If the Inverter Doesn’t Work . . .

Okay, there are LOTS of possible reasons.  But here’s a quick list of things to check.

Portable inverter:

• Breaker is ON for the cigarette lighter.
• Switch on the inverter is ON.
• Fuse in the inverter isn’t blown (there is usually a fuse in the tip of the cigarette lighter plug) — if it’s blown, you had too large a load for the inverter and/or the socket.  Sometimes there’s a reset button on the inverter, too.
• Did it overheat?  If it feels hot to the touch, you may just need to let it cool down.  Try to find a cooler place to use it — or at least one with better air flow.
• There may be an inline fuse between the socket and the breaker — if so, it is blown?
• Just too small an inverter to power the item.
• You did turn on the appliance, didn’t you? (Yeah, I’ve done this . . .)

Hard-wired inverter:

• Inverter is ON.
• Outlet breaker ON at the AC panel.  AC master switch ON.  If the outlet breaker trips, the load was too large for the circuit.
• Ground fault not tripped . . . check all outlets on the circuits, not just the outlet you’re using.

Pure Sine Wave vs. Modified Sine Wave

Oh, geez . . . more tech-y stuff.  But it’s important.  Make the wrong choice and you can fry expensive electronics.

AC power that you get ashore from the power company has a true sine wave form — the red line in the drawing at right.  But it’s complicated to change power from DC current to that smooth wave form.  So for years, inverters used what is called a “modified sine wave,” or step function, such as the blue line.

The problem is that certain electrical devices don’t like a modified sine wave.  Electronics and battery chargers (such as for cameras, cell phones and cordless drills) are notorious for not running properly with modified sine wave inverters.  Some displays (such as TVs and monitors) will have funny lines on them, audio equipment may have a buzz, and we totally fried the charger and battery for a cordless circular saw.

For galley purposes, variable speed motors — mixers and blenders come immediately to mind — generally perform much better with pure sine wave power.

The good news is that over the last 8 years or so, “pure sine wave” inverters have come on the market.  They tend to be more expensive, however.  Most will state somewhere in the technical specs that they are “pure sine wave” although sometimes you really have to dig for the information.  Generally, if an inverter is marketed for charging electronic devices, they are pure sine wave . . . but it’s not a guarantee.

My recommendation is that if you’re getting an inverter, get a pure sine wave one.  Consider the cost of what you’ll be plugging into it.  The equipment that we ruined by opting for a “cheap” inverter (it was a portable) cost far more than what the better inverter would have cost.  And if you’re going for a hard-wired inverter, I definitely would opt for the pure sine wave.  Chances are very good that somewhere on the boat, you’ll plug in something that is sensitive to the wave form.

Power Output

Due to less than perfect efficiency in changing power from one form to another, it’s highly likely that items will be slightly less powerful than when plugged into shore power.  For us, anything we put into the microwave took about 25% longer to cook when running on the inverter.  And after a summer at anchor, Dave would inevitably forget to set the timer for a minute less when microwaving popcorn on shore power and the first batch back at the marina would be burnt!

Two More Things to Think About

Two more things that are really beyond the scope of this article, but that I want to point out:

Once again, I’m not an electrician.  Prior to our first trip on a friend’s boat, I had no clue what an inverter was, or why I needed to switch it on before using the microwave.  I learned a lot as we bought our boat and cruised.  I’ve only scratched the surface here, but hopefully this information will give you a basic understanding of inverters and the questions to ask before buying, installing, or using one.

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Reader Interactions

Carol Watson says

June 6, 2012 at 1:54 pm

Thanks Carolyn, I’ve had all this in my head but not so organized. I do deal with European 220/240, but the principles are the same and this makes it less head-spinning. Appreciate the effort.

Sarah and Ben (@BlueWaterDreamn) says

January 15, 2013 at 5:26 pm

Thanks for the explanation, we are in Australia so have 220/240v but I now understand the principle of how it works a lot better. We have a hard wired inverter so I may have to dig around in our pile of manuals and do a bit of reading about it.

Jeff Janacek says

September 10, 2013 at 7:03 am

I recommend folks steer away from the Xantrex brand.

Al Felker says

July 27, 2014 at 10:44 am

Sad but true.

Les Griffith says

September 16, 2016 at 5:24 am

Dont understand the hate, just an opinion with no facts is not useful input. My Xantrex has never given me a problem,.

Dave Innis says

September 16, 2016 at 7:26 am

Les, as you can see from the above that I had basically the same question back in January. Our Xantrex is a 2004 vintage, and has been trouble-free as well. A couple months ago we had a marine electrician helping us with a frustrating problem, and he was checking the inverter, so I asked him about this. His opinion (based on his experience) is that the problem began when Xantrex changed owners, with likely the resulting changes in parts suppliers, manufacturing, etc. he confirmed that he ” very rarely” sees issues with “older models”, but “newer” models don’t seem to be as reliable. I didn’t try to follow-up on this further, since we weren’t having problems and his explaination made sense to me. Fully agree with you that unsubstantiated opinions are worse that worthless, but such seems to be the world of social media. Hope this info helps.

Sean Freeman says

September 14, 2020 at 9:11 am

We recently had our docks re-wired to the new standard and we kept blowing the GFCI breaker on the pier when we plugged in our boat. Turns out that the ground loop cutoff relay on our 2003 Xantrax likely doesn’t meet the new code so I need to disconnect the ground lines on the inverter when hooking up to shore power to prevent tripping the breaker on the pier.

April 15, 2014 at 11:19 am

Once again, many thanks! There are so many details to wrap my head around when it comes to cruising! It’s not like life will suddenly be all relaxing and painting toenails! Just trying to learn Spanish has been a challenge. One more detail is a bit clearer. Compared to trying to learn the extremely painful, in depth electronics at our local Ham radio club, this was a pleasure!

June 22, 2014 at 10:18 am

I have a hardwired inverter on my houseboat with a remote. While I’m away should the inverter be left on ? I’m hooked up to shore power but want the inverter to maintain my refrigerator in case of a power outage. Thanks for your advice.

Carolyn Shearlock says

June 24, 2014 at 6:36 am

In theory, there’s a slightly higher risk of fire with every item you leave on. In reality, if the inverter is in good working order, it’s not a LOT bigger risk since you’re already leaving the shore power on.

Ken Arnold says

July 27, 2014 at 9:24 am

You would need a “Generator Switching Relay” (pricey) to run Shore and Battery/Inverter to the Fridge (at the same time) and have it switch on for Shore power outages. You can’t run it on both at the same time.

You’re inviting a Fire.

Sylvia Williams Boehmer says

July 27, 2014 at 12:05 pm

Thanks for the Inverter Basics course!!

The Boat Galley says

July 27, 2014 at 12:19 pm

Glad it’s helpful!

July 27, 2014 at 10:53 am

Very well written and thoughtful article. You tackled a big issue. A lot of boaters just say “No” to inverters, but that is their “loss”. Using an inverter complicates the battery usage for sure. We use an energy monitor to keep track of the “Amp Hours” used. But that is for another article.

Love that coffee in the morning without the genset running or waiting for hot water on a propane stove.

July 27, 2014 at 10:58 am

You state that: “. . . a 400-watt load can be too much for many, and will blow the internal fuse or trip the breaker. If you are thinking of buying a 400-watt portable inverter, make sure . . . . (A 400-watt load is going to pull ± 35 amps DC.)” It’s the parenthetical expression from the partially quoted paragraph above that I am having trouble understanding. Will you please explain it to me? Thank you for your considered response, Steve

July 27, 2014 at 11:13 am

400 Watts / 12 Volts = 33.3 Amps .: 400 Watts / 24 Volts = 16.6 Amps : 400 Watts / 120 Volts = 3.3 Amps ; 400 Watts / 220 Volts = 1.8 Amps

As you can see above, different voltages will “draw” different Amps.

The internal fuse of these 12 Volt portable inverters is rated for 35 amps so the fuse will open (power disconnected). Remember, the portable is plugged into a cigar plug, which is always 12 Volts and probably only has a 20 Amp fuse. If the same 400 Watt appliance is plugged into a 120 AC receptacle, this same appliance will only draw 3.3 Amps. Hope that makes sense.

July 27, 2014 at 11:24 am

Steve —

Watts = volts x amps

By doing a bit of math, that means Amps = watts / volts

So with a 12-volt DC system (some boats use 24 volts or 32, but 12 is far more common), 400 watts is going to be just under 35 amps . . . 400/12 = 33.3 amps — I say +/- 35 amps because of variations in the voltage and also how much voltage is lost due to inefficiencies.

Hope that helps!

July 27, 2014 at 1:35 pm

Most certainly. I substituted 120V for the required 12volts. I saw that I was off by a factor of 10 but even that did not turn on the light bulb in my head. I seem to be having more of those events these days.

Thanks for the kind patients you have all shown in your response.

Fair Winds and Following Seas To Us All – in the days to come

Sherry Day says

July 27, 2014 at 7:08 pm

Thanks for the great info. This may explain my camera issues.

July 27, 2014 at 8:30 pm

Hope it helps but sorry there’s a problem.

Elizabeth Aristeguieta says

July 28, 2014 at 7:42 pm

Great article Carolyn. Thank you!

Jan Bogart says

November 28, 2015 at 1:08 am

Just bought a new one/charger for $1,900 thanks to mother nature/lightening!

November 28, 2015 at 1:36 am

John R. Parsons says

You do The Greatest Posts! You don’t have to be a Sailor to appreciate your posts. This one is a Classic of your Service! We are VERY Proud of YOU!

November 28, 2015 at 11:52 am

Thanks so much!

Connie Watkins Weaver says

November 28, 2015 at 1:58 am

Thanks for the article! I learned a lot!!

Helen Bell says

November 28, 2015 at 2:14 am

Cant imagine life without one

Christopher Nunnery says

November 28, 2015 at 3:12 pm

Thank you, and I appreciate the simplicity. Starting out trying to learn various systems is daunting. And further more without trying to fill at the mercy of marina salesmen, a little knowledge helps.

Dave Skolnick says

November 28, 2015 at 3:57 pm

Friends don’t let friends buy Xantrex.

January 28, 2016 at 8:04 am

Our boar came with Xantrex, and so far no issues. However, I would appreciate understanding why the folks above don’t recommend this system; are there specific potential issues of which we need to be aware?

January 28, 2016 at 8:07 am

They’ve had a number of issues with suddenly failing and no way to repair.

January 28, 2016 at 10:43 am

Thanks for the info Carolyn.

January 31, 2019 at 6:57 pm

Boars don’t have many issues 🙂 Guess newer boats with newer Xantrex have problems. My 1999 Island Packet has no issues with original inverter.

Betina says

August 18, 2016 at 10:45 am

Another excellent article. Thank you.

Frank Kleinburg says

September 16, 2016 at 3:05 pm

With great interest I read the article on inverters as I do many of the articles you post. But the one section on power output got my attention. I cannot understand why a microwave would take longer to cook popcorn (or anything) when run on a properly sized, true sine wave output inverter vs. when on shore power. flk k

September 16, 2016 at 11:21 am

There are inefficiencies in the conversion of power . . . I know it happened with a 1000 watt microwave running on a 2500 watt inverter. Some brands and combinations of microwave brand, size & model with particular inverter brand, size, model and wiring may not have as much of a problem — or an almost negligible one — but I know it happens to everyone I talk to!

Daniel Richardson says

April 21, 2017 at 8:14 pm

In regards to inrush surge current for anything with an electric motor, a ‘rule of thumb’ is to multiply by 6. Any sparky worth his salt will know this. Thanks for the awesome articles!

Michael Chaney says

September 7, 2017 at 9:25 pm

Interesting and informational

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Marine Electronics: Marine Power Inverters

An essential component of any offshore cruising yacht’s electrical system is an inverter, which converts 12V DC into 110V or 220V AC. As much as we might want to create a 12V alternative reality for ourselves offshore and at anchor, reality speaks for itself: we still need AC for many electrical appliances and systems.

Power tools and appliances, including drill motors, small circular saws and blenders, are available in 12V versions, but many yachties still prefer the higher performance of AC tools and fixtures. Fortunately, the range of marine and recreational inverters is wide and varied, from small cigarette lighter adapters all the way up to highly sophisticated, fan-cooled designs offering full sine wave AC current safe enough to support highly sensitive electronic appliances, such as microwave ovens and laser printers.

At the humbler end of the price range for full sine wave inverters is the Renogy 2000W inverter/charger, which offers “cleaner, smoother and more reliable electricity” for all loads in its range requiring a genuine full sine wave power source.

The Renogy 2000W inverter, boasting a much higher current rating than many products in its class, can be used for an assortment of appliances –– such as AC drill motors, circular saws, lights, and electronics –– simultaneously without interference.

Special LED indicators afford protection from excessive voltage ranges, temperature variation and short circuits. Also, high-speed ventilation fans ensure the inverter runs at a safe temperature. In keeping with modern AC electrical practice, the Renogy 2000W includes GFCI protection. And though the Renogy will set you back only about $300, this unit runs quietly, unlike some of its bargain-basement competitors.

In the middle of the inverter price range is The Xantrex Freedom XC Inverter/Charger, which is designed to provide 1000W of “true sine wave AC” for permanently-installed cabin and galley appliances –– such as a microwave, washer and dryer –– flawlessly and quietly. This robust system offers protection in surges of up to double continuous power for two seconds, an important feature for handling electric motor start-up surges occurring when a microwave or fridge compressor starts up.

When in operation with the engine running, a “programmable, configurable, three-stage” charging algorithm ensures optimal charging of most types of batteries ranging up to 18 volts. The Xantrex’s 30A transfer relay senses AC shore current and then transfers the vessel’s electrical load to that source to protect battery charge.

However, when you are using shore power to charge the batteries, this Xantrex inverter-charger actually uses less shore amperage, saving money on marina charges and freeing up current to be used in running onboard appliances, which also provides some assurance against tripping dockside electrical breakers.

At roughly $700, the Xantrex Freedom XC will easily pay for itself many times over when we consider the savings in terms of longer battery life and the protection offered to the vessel’s varied electrical and electronic systems through safe, carefully controlled AC output and battery charging.

For a few more bucks, you can invest in a Mastervolt PowerCombi 12V, 1200W Pure Sine Inverter, 50A Charger, which is in the same class as the Xantrex Freedom XC. Though the PowerCombi operates as a stand-alone inverter/charger, it is designed to be easily integrated, using an additional interface, into a MasterBus network.

The PowerCombi is easy to install and offers a built-in transfer switch for shore power, double surge protection for up to three seconds, and adaptability to charge Li-ion batteries. The unit handles voltage ranging from 10V to 15.5V DC, and, of course, it may be used for flooded, gel, AGM and a variety of custom battery types.

At roughly $800, the Mastervolt PowerCombi is a bit pricier than other units in its class but is backed by more than two decades in the design and manufacture of electronic and electrical gear for marine, off-road and industrial applications.

Your choice of inverter or inverter/charger will provide a major boost to your cruising lifestyle, so select the unit offering the best quality, durability, and ease of use.

By Ocean Navigator

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