hunter 27 sailboat data

New Sailboats
Sailboats 21-30ft
Sailboats 31-35ft
Sailboats 36-40ft
Sailboats Over 40ft
Sailboats Under 21feet
used_sailboats
Apps and Computer Programs
Communications
Fishfinders
Handheld Electronics
Plotters MFDS Rradar
Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
Anchoring Mooring
Running Rigging
Sails Canvas
Standing Rigging
Diesel Engines
Off Grid Energy
Cleaning Waxing
DIY Projects
Repair, Tools & Materials
Spare Parts
Tools & Gadgets
Cabin Comfort
Ventilation
Footwear Apparel
Foul Weather Gear
Mailport & PS Advisor
Inside Practical Sailor Blog
Activate My Web Access
Reset Password
Customer Service

Free Newsletter

Blue Jacket 40 Used Boat Review

Catalina 270 vs. The Beneteau First 265 Used Boat Match-Up

The Ericson 41's solid build and stylish 1960s lines offer an offshore-ready cruiser with class. The slender cockpit means you can brace yourself with a foot on the the leeward side. Which, as it turns out, makes you look classy as well. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

Ericson 41 Used Boat Review

Mason 33 Used Boat Review

How to Create a Bullet-Proof VHF/SSB Backup

AquaMaps with Bob’s blue tracks and my green tracks at the start of the ICW with bridge arrival times. (Image/ Alex Jasper)

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Make sure someone is always keeping a lookout on the horizon while the tillerpilot is engaged. If there are a few crew onboard, it helps to rotate who is on watch so everyone else can relax.

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Irwin Vise-Grip Wire Stripper. (Photo/ Adam Morris)

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

We like going one size over what is often recommended for smaller boats. The advantages are a.Less stretch. Nylon can be too stretchy, but polyester not stretchy enough. One size over can be a Goldilocks answer. b.Better wear resistance. Because we like using short chain when hand-hauling, we cover the first 10 feet with a webbing chafe guard. This is very cut resistant, because unlike the rope inside, it is floating and not under tension. c. Better grip. ⅜-in. is pretty hard to grab with the wind is up. ½-in. fits our hands better. (Photo/ Drew Frye)

Polyester vs. Nylon Rode

Getting the Most Out of Older Sails

How (Not) to Tie Your Boat to a Dock

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

This is the faulty diesel lift pump, the arrow is pointing to the sluggish primer lever. That is an issue because the fuel lift pump needs to provide the right amount of fuel and fuel pressure to the injector pump. (Photo/ Marc Robic)

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

Old, decomposing fiberglass boats in Hennebont, next to Lorient, in the Morbihan region of Bretagne, France. (Photo/ Angie Richard)

What Do You Do With Old Fiberglass Boats?

Replacement door latch made from an off-cut aluminum angle. The crafty DIY repair was made in the remote archipelago of Saint Pierre et Miquelon, where no hinges were readily available. (Photo/ Brett Campbell)

Boat Repairs for the Technically Illiterate

This is the original Yanmar 4JH5E 54hp normally aspirated engine supplied by Beneteau. We've done 6,000 hours over the last 13 years. (Photo/ Brett Campbell)

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate

Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Stopping Holding-tank Odors

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

Instead of dreading a squall, think about it as a way to fill up your water tanks. PS tested ways to make sure the rainwater you catch is clean, tasty and safe to drink.

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Sailing Gear for Kids

What’s the Best Sunscreen?

The edges of open shade can read as high as 25 percent of sunlight when surrounded by a white deck. (Photo/ Drew Frye)

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

The R. Tucker Thompson is a tall ship based in the Bay of Islands, Aotearoa New Zealand. It operates as a not-for-profit, and takes Northland’s young people on 7-day voyages. (Photo courtesy of R. Tucker Thompson)

R. Tucker Thompson Tall Ship Youth Voyage

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

America's Cup sailboats have progressed from deep-keel monohull J-class Yachts, to regal Twelve Meters, to rambunctious wing-sailed catamarans. The rule now restricts boats to a single hull, but allows retractable, hydraulically actuated foils. Top speeds of 40 knots are common. (Photo/Shutterstock)

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

Sailboat Reviews

The Hunter 27 is a boat built to a price--a low price--and it shows; but it may represent a good value.

The Hunter 27 is the smallest boat in the Hunter line, which runs up to 43′ in length. The Hunter 27 is a popular boat with first-time sailboat buyers, and with small-boat sailors purchasing their first auxiliary cruising boat. Since the boat was introduced in 1975, thousands have been built.

Like other boats with a reasonably long production run, the Hunter 27 has gone through minor changes since its introduction. Wheel steering is now standard. The boat utilizes a split backstay to allow a stern boarding ladder and to prevent the helmsman from hitting his head on a centerline backstay. All the ports open for ventilation, The mainsheet lead has been altered, and there have been other minor modifications, such as a switch to European-style pulpits and running lights.

Judging from the response of Hunter owners we’ve talked to, all Hunters, including the 27, are purchased for one reason: price. The Hunter 27 is just about the cheapest diesel-powered 27′ cruising boat money can buy.

In their advertising literature, Hunter stresses that efficiency in construction, standardization of components, and low overhead keep their prices low, To some extent, this is true, and it is neither new, nor is it anything to be ashamed of. The Herreshoff Manufacturing Company, known neither for cheap boats nor low quality, pioneered in component standardization and assembly-line construction.

By eliminating factory-installed options, every Hunter 27 can be built the same. No going to the stockroom for an optional item. No time-consuming reading of each boat’s specifications as it moves down the assembly line. There are trade-offs, however.

An inability to custom-tailor a boat. A lack of flexibility in deck layout. The Hunter 27 owner must customize his boat at the dealer level, or do it himself. This appeals to dealers, who often make as much on the installation of options as they do on commissions.

The Hunter 27 is a bit high-sided and sterile looking. High freeboard and a high cabin trunk are almost necessary in a 27, boat that claims over 6′ of headroom. The sterility comes from the Hunter bone white on bone white color scheme, and paucity of external teak trim. Exterior teak is to the fiberglass boatbuilding industry what chrome is to Detroit. There are no hull and deck color options.

Construction

Construction of the Hunter 27 is solid glass layup, with plywood reinforcement in high-stress areas such as winch mountings and locker tops. Gelcoat and finish quality of the hull molding are good. No roving printthrough is evident, and the hull is quite fair—more than can be said for many more expensive boats.

The hull-to-deck joint of the Hunter 27 is simple and strong. The hull molding has an internal flange molded at right angles to the hull at deck level. This flange is heavily coated with adhesive bedding, the deck molding is laid over the flange, and the joint covered with a slotted aluminum toerail which is through-bolted with stainless steel bolts at 6-inch intervals. This is an obvious and very satisfactory answer to the hull-to-deck joint problem. The flaying surfaces of the joint appear to match well, and the adhesive compound has squeezed out along the joint where it can be inspected.

Across the transom, the joint is less satisfactory. The gelcoat and putty with which the joint is faired at the stern was sloppy on every Hunter 27 we examined.

The keel of the Hunter 27 is a narrow, high aspect lead fin weighing 3,000 lbs. The shoal draft version has a much shallower lead fin weighing 3,200 lbs. The additional weight of the shoal keel is to make up for the shift in the vertical center of gravity of the boat that would occur if a shoal keel of the same weight as the deep fin were to be used.

The keel-to-hull joint has caused problems in some Hunter 27s. The narrowness of the lead keel at the point of attachment to the hull results in considerable leverage on the hull when the boat heels. Several Hunter 27 owners who returned The Practical Sailor boat owner evaluations report oilcanning of the hull, leaking keelbolts, or vertical misalignment of the hull and keel. We have observed this vertical misalignment in the Hunter 25, but we have not seen it specifically in the 27.

The chainplates of the Hunter 27 consist of stainless steel U-bolts fastened through the anodized aluminum toerail. No backing plates are used with these. The chainplates are likely to carry any load to which they will normally be subjected. However, a simple U-bolt, no matter how heavy, is a poor choice for a primary chainplate unless the arc of the U-bolt is radiused to the diameter of the clevis pin which goes through it, and unless the strain on the bolt lines up with its vertical axis, U-bolt chainplates of the correct configuration are used in some European boats, notably the Nicholson and Bowman lines. Both of these lines of boats carry Lloyd’s Bureau of Shipping classification certificates. We strongly suggest that Hunter 27 owners consider installing aluminum or stainless steel backing plates under their U-bolt chainplates, and check them periodically to be sure that the nuts are tight. With only two nuts on each shroud anchorage, this check is extremely important.

The rig is a modern, high aspect ratio masthead sloop. The mast is a deck-stepped, white Kenyon spar, supported by a wood compression column attached to the main bulkhead. We have seen no sign of compression stress in the Hunter 27 mast step.

Hunter uses gate valves on underwater skin fittings, We prefer seacocks. We also prefer some kind of shutoff valve on any skin fitting remotely near the waterline. Few builders provide them. Hunter is no exception.

Handling Under Sail

The Hunter 27 comes with a mainsail and 110% genoa. The total sail area with this configuration is 360 square feet, an average amount for a modern 7,000 lb boat. A larger genoa will be required for sailing in light-air areas.

Despite a ballast/displacement ratio of almost 43%, owners do not consider the Hunter 27 a stiff boat under sail. They also consider the boat’s performance under sail only fair to good. There are several reasons for the boat’s mediocre sailing qualities.

First of all, the boat comes factory-equipped with sails. This means cheaper sails, for they are bought in quantity by the builder. It also, almost inevitably, means sails that are not designed for specific local conditions. Average sails make for average performance.

There is no provision for headsail sheeting angle adjustment. Without a genoa track, all headsails must sheet to the slotted toerail. On a wide 27-footer with this arrangement, the headsail slot will rarely be the proper width for good windward performance.

With a small headsail, the lead will almost always be too far outboard.

There is also no traveler for the main sheet. This limits the creation of the proper angle of attack of the mainsail, and complicates draft control.

A relatively fat boat such as the Hunter 27 rapidly acquires weather helm as the boat heels. This is due in part to the asymmetry of the boat’s submerged sections. The judicious use of sail controls such as travelers, vangs, and flattening reefs greatly enhances the ability to keep the boat sailing on her feet, which will help reduce weather helm. Hunter 27 owners complain that the boat suffers from extreme weather helm.

Chainplates set at the outboard edge of the deck also compromise windward performance. This arrangement makes it almost impossible to close the slot effectively with a large headsail.

If the Hunter 27 were equipped with well-made sails, inboard chainplates, inboard and outboard headsail tracks, a good vang, and a mainsheet traveler, we suspect that there would be a substantial improvement in the boat’s windward ability. There would also be a marked difference in price. Should you desire to make these changes, the parts would probably cost upwards of $1,500. Then the problems begin. How do you attach the chainplates? Will the deck take the vertical loading that will be on the track? Can the boom handle heavy vang loads? We are not talking about turning the Hunter 27 into a hot racer. We are only talking about improving the performance of the boat to a reasonable level for cruising.

Windward performance, then, is one of the tradeoffs made for low price. Only the prospective purchaser, after considering how the boat is to be used, can decide how much that is worth. Since the shoal-draft Hunter 27 is more heavily ballasted than the deep-draft version, its stability is likely to be similar. However, the deep, high aspect ratio fin is likely to be more efficient.

Handling Under Power

With only eight horsepower to push around a 7,000 lb, high-sided boat, do not expect a Hunter 27 to be a sprightly performer under power.

In 1979, the power plant of the Hunter 27 was changed from the eight horsepower Renault diesel. The Renault diesels were relatively untried in the US marine market. The early Yanmar engines, though noisy and noted for their vibration, are also known for their reliability.

At least one owner we talked to was, to put it mildly, disappointed with the Renault installation. Although the engine runs well, the attachment of the shifting mechanism to the transmission lever has the disconcerting habit of vibrating itself loose. When docking, the results of this shortcoming could be less than amusing to both the boat owner and his insurance company.

Owners of Renault-powered Hunter 27s should definitely be aware of this potential problem.

Another owner reported leaking strut bolts and shaft wear due to improper shaft alignment, All engine installations should be realigned after the boat is launched for the first time. This should be a routine part of commissioning, but it rarely is. A given used Hunter 27 may not have had it done.

Engine access is good, behind the removable companionway ladder. There is partial soundproofing in the engine enclosure, but not enough to shield the interior from a substantial amount of noise.

Fuel capacity is 12.5 gallons, in an aluminum tank located in the starboard cockpit locker. The tank is held in place by a stainless steel strap, There is no grounding jumper between the fuel fill and the tank. This is in violation of the standards for fuel tank installation of the American Boat and Yacht Council, which sets minimum standards used in the industry.

Owners consider the boat underpowered with either the Renault or Yanmar engines. They consider the boat’s performance under power only fair to good.

Deck Layout

Because the Hunter 27’s decks are relatively free of sail control hardware, there are relatively few toe stubbers. Even the grayest cloud has a silver lining.

New Hunter 27s have international style running lights mounted on the bow and stern pulpits. These are far superior to the in-hull running lights on older Hunters, and better than those used on many more expensive boats. New boats also have a good-sized foredeck anchor well, incorporating a well-designed latch and a heavy stainless steel eye for the attachment of the bitter end of the anchor rode. The well has a large scupper which drains through the stem.

Although owners consider the cockpit of the Hunter 27 small, we find it comfortable for five, and certainly large enough for a 27′ boat. Wheel steering has definitely made the cockpit seem bigger. With five people in the cockpit, the stern of the boat begins to squat. A bigger cockpit would only encourage sailing with more people, causing the boat to squat even more.

Late models have Yacht Specialties pedestal steering. There is good provision for an emergency tiller, which is supplied with the boat.

Access to the steering gear is excellent, through the lazarette locker. Unfortunately, because the steering gear, scupper hoses, and exhaust hose go through this locker, it cannot be used for storage. To do so would be to risk damage to vital parts of the ship’s systems.

There is a large locker under the starboard cockpit seat. Unfortunately, because the fuel tank is located in this locker, nothing can really be stowed there without risking damage to the fuel system. Wet lines or sails stored in the locker would drip on the aluminum tank, inviting corrosion. Shelves installed in both these lockers would make them more useful.

To raise the cockpit sill above the level of the lowest cockpit coaming, the lower drop-board must be left in place, This complicates access below when underway, but having the companionway blocked up to deck level is essential for sailing in unsheltered waters or heavy weather.

The cockpit bulkhead slopes forward. This means that a dodger must be installed if one wishes to ventilate the cabin in rain or heavy weather.

The high cockpit coamings provide good backrests for those sitting in the cockpit. They should also help keep the cockpit dry. These coamings have moldedin sheet winch islands. The owner wishing to upgrade to winches larger than the standard Lewmar 7s will discover that the islands are too small for a much larger winch. For the owner who wishes to use a large genoa, this could be a real problem. Despite these shortcomings, the T-shaped cockpit is reasonably comfortable, and is one of the boat’s better design features.

The Hunter 27 is a roomy boat. Headroom is just over 6′ under the main hatch, and almost 5′ 10″ at the forward end of the main cabin.

The forepeak contains a double berth. Aft of that cabin is a full-width head. Newer Hunter 27s have a holding tank system. Older boats are likely to have portable heads.

The main cabin has settee berths port and starboard. These settees extend under the forward bulkhead. While this arrangement reduces seating area, it also allows more room for the galley and quarterberth. It’s a reasonable trade-off.

To port, at the aft end of the cabin, there is a quarterberth. A folding chart table is located over the forward end of the quarterberth. To starboard is the galley, with sink, two-burner alcohol stove, and icebox.

With eight opening ports, two opening hatches, and the companionway, ventilation in newer Hunter 27s is excellent at anchor in good weather. Older models have fewer opening ports. As with many boats, there is no provision for ventilation in heavy weather.

With a molded glass headliner, teak-finished bulkheads, solid teak trim, and teak cabin sole, the cabin has a finished appearance. There is good storage for a boat of this size for short-term cruising. Joinerwork is of fair stock boat quality.

Conclusions

A new Hunter 27 in the ’80s was about the least expensive boat in its class—far cheaper than many other boats of this size. The boat also comes standard with items that are optional on other boats, such as wheel steering, life jackets, anchor, and fire extinguishers.

However, it is not realistic to expect a boat that is 15% cheaper than another boat of the same size and type to be equivalent in quality. There is just so much that efficiency, standardization, and bulk buying can do toward reducing the price of a boat. Inevitably, the price of a boat is a function the time, materials, and incidental costs that go into it. There is no magic way to reduce the cost of building a boat.

The Hunter 27 graphically demonstrates how costs can be reduced. A great deal of time is saved in construction by hurrying finish work, by using staples instead of screws, by eliminating the necessity to customize each boat.

Hunter owners are the first to admit the influence that the low price of the boat had on their boat-buying decision. Many are happy with their boats, some are defensive about them, and others are really unhappy with them. For the relatively unsophisticated sailboat buyer—the new sailor, the powerboat convert—the Hunter 27 may represent a good value. As his experience grows, we expect he will be willing to pay more, in order to get more.

Latest Videos

Cabo Rico 34 Boat Review

Super Shallow Draft Sailboat: The Leeboard Sharpie

Hans Christian 41T – Boat Review

Seven dead after superyacht sinks off Sicily. Was the crew at...

Latest sailboat review.

Privacy Policy
Do Not Sell My Personal Information
Online Account Activation
Privacy Manager

{{>productsMenu}} Products
{{>trendsMenu}} News & Trends
Catalogs >
Marlow Hunter >
Hunter 27/27x Brochure
News & Trends
Exhibitions

Hunter 27/27x Brochure 4 Pages

Catalog excerpts

27/27x Photos may show optional equipment Superb style, brisk sailing, and room for the entire family.

27 / 27x . 31 . 33 . 36 . 38 . 41 / 41DS . 45DS . 45CC . 50 27x The 27 is an ideal weekender. Her spirited performance combines with a surprisingly generous accommodation - all at an extremely attractive price. Bring your family together to create lifelong memories. For maximum performance, select the new 27x version with high performance keel, rig, rudder and rigging. Twin keel Option A private aft cabin, private head and wrap-around saloon offer the accommodation of most 30’ models. W E G O T H E D I S T A N C E

The Value Proposition Hunter Sailboats have been America’s other decisions, or 2) Use quality most popular for many years. With a components and building processes range of models from 9’ to 50’, Hunter combined with efficient purchasing and has continually offered superb choice volume sales to produce the most combined with loads of comfort features, appealing yacht possible, or 3) Offer a excellent sailing character and quality custom yacht built to the customer’s components to enhance your sailing specifications. Years ago, we chose experience and investment. number two, and continue to...

All Marlow Hunter catalogs and brochures

4 Pages

8 Pages

5 Pages

2 Pages

1 Pages

Archived catalogs

6 Pages

Hunter 27 3

The hunter 27 3 is a 27.33ft b&r designed by glenn henderson and built in fiberglass by hunter marine (usa) between 2004 and 2013..

The Hunter 27 3 is a moderate weight sailboat which is under powered. It is stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a very short water supply range.

Hunter 27 3 for sale elsewhere on the web:

Main features

Model	Hunter 27 3
Length	27.33 ft
Beam	9.92 ft
Draft	3.50 ft
Country	United states (North America)
Estimated price	$ 0	??

You will be able to pin external links of your choice.

See how Sailboatlab works in video

Sail area / displ.	12.27
Ballast / displ.	26.80 %
Displ. / length	260.69
Comfort ratio	22.54
Capsize	2.02

Hull type	Monohull fin Keel with bulb
Construction	Fiberglass
Waterline length	23.58 ft
Maximum draft	3.50 ft
Displacement	7656 lbs
Ballast	2052 lbs
Hull speed	6.51 knots

We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt

Rigging	B&R
Sail area (100%)	297 sq.ft
Air draft	39.75 ft
Sail area fore	120.42 sq.ft
Sail area main	176.98 sq.ft
I	27 ft
J	8.92 ft
P	30.33 ft
E	11.67 ft

Nb engines	1
Total power	10 HP
Fuel capacity	15 gals

Accommodations

Water capacity	20 gals
Headroom	6.17 ft
Nb of cabins	0
Nb of berths	0
Nb heads	0

Builder data

Builder	Hunter Marine (USA)
Designer	Glenn Henderson
First built	2004
Last built	2013
Number built	0	??

Other photos

Modal Title

The content of your modal.

Personalize your sailboat data sheet

Paste a link here:

Give it a title:

And eventually a link to an image for the thumbnail:

Hunter Boat Data Channel 27

The British Hunter Channel 27 is a solid, stable, offshore cruising yacht, safe and responsive with good speed, she is ideal for both family cruising or short handed sailing. Achieving category B status she is available in both the deep fin racing keel and twin fin versions.

This content is only available to members of the Hunter Association.

To access this content please log in or register

Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts.

Sailboat Guide

Hunter 27-3

Hunter 27-3 is a 27 ′ 3 ″ / 8.3 m monohull sailboat designed by Glenn Henderson and built by Hunter Marine starting in 2006.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
LOA: Length overall in feet
Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Opt. deep keel model - draft: 5.0’/1.52m Disp: 7505 lbs./3404 kg. Twin/bilge keel version also available in the UK.

Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code.

Discover Related Sailboats

About Sailboat Guide

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
Media New media New comments
Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Hunter 27 (1984) - Furler Clearance Issues

Thread starter Hunter Enthusiast
Start date Sep 5, 2024
Forums for All Owners
Ask All Sailors

Hunter Enthusiast

Hi everyone, I recently purchased a Hunter 27 (1984) and have spent most of this season getting her back in shape. The most recent issue I've encountered is the very limited clearance between furler drum-head and the pulpit. The clearances are so tight that during furling, there is standardly a complete stoppage. Not only is this frustrating, as single-handed sailer, it's just dangerous! Does anyone have any ideas on how I might be able to effectively address this issue?

Attachments

Hunter Enthusiast said: Hi everyone, I recently purchased a Hunter 27 (1984) and have spent most of this season getting her back in shape. The most recent issue I've encountered is the very limited clearance between furler drum-head and the pulpit. The clearances are so tight that during furling, there is standardly a complete stoppage. Not only is this frustrating, as single-handed sailer, it's just dangerous! Does anyone have any ideas on how I might be able to effectively address this issue? Click to expand

Those can be rough years. I considered raising the whole pulpit. But that would create greater leverage someone fell against it. And I'm not sure that you can raise it enough. I considered cutting the cross member off - I'm not sure it's necessary other than to mount the bow light which could be relocated. I've been on many boats without a crossmember like that. Bracing is nice but a little flex in the bow pulpit might not be that bad. I considered who set this up. It's clearly a problem. I'm assuming no pre-purchase survey otherwise this should have been noted. In the end it's a poor installation and the cure is a new furler that fits.

LloydB said: Just from the looks of it I would guess that the pulpit had been run into something solid, not that that would ever happen to a nice boat like that. a simple solution might be to tie a hard line onto the pulpit and back away from the shore based anchor point. I only point out this possible solution based on my extensive experience as a teenager. YEMV Click to expand

Move the headstay attachment one hole aft in the bow fitting .. I see a hole just aft of the current hole being used. maybe use vice grips judiciously and slightly flatten the aft side of that cross brace?

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

@Hunter Enthusiast .I have not yet had the opportunity to say Hi. Welcome to the SBO Forum. Congrats on finding your Hunter. I can see the problem in your images. Looking for a solution the images all show the same parts of the furler. Can you post images of beneath the furler? Often boats like yours have 2 or more spots to attach a furler on the bow stem. I think I see a bit of stainless beneath the edge of the furler drum. If so, I would look to attach the furler a step or two further back from the pulpit. Additional considerations with this solution is that the length will appear to be longer on the furler. As you move it away from the pulpit the distance between the bow connection and the top of the mast gets shorter. You might need to address that. I can not tell from here. The additional pictures may serve to help. Best of luck. Enjoy sailing your boat.

shemandr said: Those can be rough years. I considered raising the whole pulpit. But that would create greater leverage someone fell against it. And I'm not sure that you can raise it enough. I considered cutting the cross member off - I'm not sure it's necessary other than to mount the bow light which could be relocated. I've been on many boats without a crossmember like that. Bracing is nice but a little flex in the bow pulpit might not be that bad. I considered who set this up. It's clearly a problem. I'm assuming no pre-purchase survey otherwise this should have been noted. In the end it's a poor installation and the cure is a new furler that fits. Click to expand

dlochner said: I found a photo of a Hunter 27 from that era and the bent pulpit leg appears to be a design feature. Given the age of the boat, I suspect no one thought about putting roller furling on the 27. I also don't know what the thinking was about the open front on the pulpit. The only solution I see are modifying or replacing the pulpit or finding a roller furling unit that fits better. Click to expand

kloudie1 said: Move the headstay attachment one hole aft in the bow fitting .. I see a hole just aft of the current hole being used. maybe use vice grips judiciously and slightly flatten the aft side of that cross brace? Click to expand

jssailem said: @Hunter Enthusiast .I have not yet had the opportunity to say Hi. Welcome to the SBO Forum. Congrats on finding your Hunter. I can see the problem in your images. Looking for a solution the images all show the same parts of the furler. Can you post images of beneath the furler? Often boats like yours have 2 or more spots to attach a furler on the bow stem. I think I see a bit of stainless beneath the edge of the furler drum. If so, I would look to attach the furler a step or two further back from the pulpit. Additional considerations with this solution is that the length will appear to be longer on the furler. As you move it away from the pulpit the distance between the bow connection and the top of the mast gets shorter. You might need to address that. I can not tell from here. The additional pictures may serve to help. Best of luck. Enjoy sailing your boat. Click to expand

David in Sandusky

Welcome, Enthusiast! I did a tour of some of the h27 (75-84) pictures on this website ( HunterOwners.com Owner Photo Album ) where the bow pulpit is clearly shown, and I found none that had the cross piece configuration that is interfering with your furler. Our '77 model does not have the crosspiece. With boats as old as ours, it's hard to know what is original equipment, and what is a result of action by a prior owner. The key input is that a number of the pictures, including ours, show pulpits with no crosspiece. Many of our boats have performed well for 40+ years without a crosspiece. So I am very comfortable recommending that you simply cut out the crosspiece, taking care to cover the open ends.

David in Sandusky said: Welcome, Enthusiast! I did a tour of some of the h27 (75-84) pictures on this website ( HunterOwners.com Owner Photo Album ) where the bow pulpit is clearly shown, and I found none that had the cross piece configuration that is interfering with your furler. Our '77 model does not have the crosspiece. With boats as old as ours, it's hard to know what is original equipment, and what is a result of action by a prior owner. The key input is that a number of the pictures, including ours, show pulpits with no crosspiece. Many of our boats have performed well for 40+ years without a crosspiece. So I am very comfortable recommending that you simply cut out the crosspiece, taking care to cover the open ends. Click to expand

I think the pulpit of the OP and the pulpit of the Hunter 27 in post #14 are different. The difference being that the OP pulpit has a continuous top rail from port to starboard. The rail in post #14 doesn’t have that top continuous rail and the mentioned cross piece is the connection from port to starboard.

dlochner said: Hold on. Before you go cutting things off, do some more research. Here's photo of a Hunter 27 with a pulpit that looks similar to yours. That cross piece is not there just for looks and to mount the running lights, it is part of the life line system. The pulpit was likely orlginal to the boat. The spacing problem is most likely one of two errors, 1) buying an incompatible furling system or 2) an incorrect installation. To rule out the second cause we really need to see how the furler is mounted to the stem head and to know the make of the furler. The second photo below shows an installed furler, sort of looks like a Schaeffer, but can't be certain from the photo. So furlers can be installed on an H27, just have to find the right one. View attachment 227307 View attachment 227305 Click to expand

Hunter Enthusiast said: Good evening, I truly appreciate you taking the time to offer your thoughts on this matter; I expect to get additional pictures (from different angles) sometime this week-end; I'll post them presently. Thanks again. Click to expand

Do you see any additional options? Yup. Move the forestay to one of the two holes behind the tack hooks. Since you have a furling system you won't need to use the tack hooks. You might need to get a couple of short link plates so the furling drum clears the two hooks.

Is the sail contacting the bar on the pulpit? It should not. The sail should be above the black round plastic piece of the furler base.

I'd start with a quick check of mast rake, particularly if your rig is dropped every season. Quick google for a H27 tuning guide didn't find much, but there was a thread on here that says 8" of rake. So see how close to this you are, or maybe someone has a better target. Granted, based on quick napkin math... on a 34ft mast height, 8" of rake will only make ~3/16" clearance to this bar, it's still something to check. Can't believe someone "lived" with this for a long time... so checking the basics and inspecting for damage as mentioned previously are good things to check.

This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

Performance

Accomodation.

Report error

Tell us what's wrong

We do our best to fix any errors in boatpedia. thanks for the help.

Beam: 9.11' Draft: 3.6'

Beam: 9.11' Draft: 5'

Beam: 9' 8' Draft: 3' 6'

Beam: 9.11' Draft: 1.04'

Beam: 9-11' Draft: 3.6'

Beam: 9'11' Draft: 5'

Beam: 10' Draft: 3.5'

Beam: 10'

Beam: 9' Draft: 3.6'

Beam: 9' Draft: 4'

Beam: 9' Draft: 3'9'

Beam: 9' Draft: 3'6'

Beam: 9'3' Draft: 4'3'

Beam: 9' Draft: 3.5'

Beam: 9'3' Draft: 3'6'

Beam: 9.00' Draft: 3.50'