how to inspect sailboat rigging

How to Check Sailboat Rigging? (A Step-By-Step Guide)

If you sail, you know how important it is to keep your sailboat in good condition.

Rigging plays a critical role in the performance of your sailboat, and it must be checked regularly to ensure the safety of your vessel and crew.

In this article, we’ll provide a step-by-step guide on how to check your sailboat rigging , from understanding what rigging is and why it’s important to checking connections for security and proper tension.

We’ll also provide tips for maintaining sailboat rigging and troubleshooting when problems arise.

Whether you’re a novice or an experienced sailor, this guide will help you keep your sailboat in top condition.

Table of Contents

Short Answer

To check sailboat rigging, first inspect all running and standing rigging for fraying or signs of wear.

Make sure all bolts, shackles, and turnbuckles are secure and correctly tensioned.

Inspect the mast and spreaders for any signs of corrosion or damage.

Lastly, check the sails for any signs of wear or damage and make sure all battens are properly in place.

What is Sailboat Rigging?

Sailboat rigging is the system of ropes, cables, and other components used to support the masts, sails, and other parts of a sailboat.

It is a complex system composed of many parts that must all be in good working order in order for the boat to sail safely and efficiently.

Rigging can include stays, halyards, sheets, blocks, and cleats, all of which must be inspected and maintained regularly.

Sailboat rigging is essential for the proper functioning of the sailboat and is a critical part of sailboat maintenance.

Stays are lines that run from the masthead up to the bow and stern of the boat, providing support for the mast and sails.

Halyards are lines used to raise and lower the sails.

Sheets are used to control the angle of the sail by adjusting the tension on the sail.

Blocks are used to change the direction of the force applied to the sail.

Cleats are used to secure lines, such as halyards and sheets.

Rigging is also important for the safety of the boat and its occupants.

All the components of the rigging must be in good condition and adjusted correctly in order to ensure the boat is safe and seaworthy.

Inspecting the rigging regularly is the best way to ensure it is in good condition and that all the components are secure.

Why is it Important to Check Sailboat Rigging?

It is essential to regularly check sailboat rigging in order to keep your vessel safe and seaworthy.

Sailboat rigging is responsible for providing stability and strength to the boat while on the water, and it is important to make sure that all components are in good working order.

By inspecting your sailboat rigging, you can identify any potential problems, such as frayed lines, rust, or other damage, so that you can make the necessary repairs or adjustments.

Additionally, checking the rigging will help you to ensure that all connections, such as stays, halyards, and sheets, are secure and properly tensioned.

Regularly inspecting the standing rigging is also important.

Standing rigging is the parts of the rigging that are permanently affixed to the boat, such as the masts, booms, and shrouds.

It is important to check for any signs of corrosion or damage, and to adjust the tension as necessary.

Similarly, it is also important to inspect the running rigging, such as the sheets and halyards, and to check for any signs of wear or damage.

By regularly checking your sailboat rigging, you can help to ensure that your vessel is safe and seaworthy.

This will help to protect you and your passengers from potential hazards, and will also help to extend the life of your sailboat.

Taking the time to inspect your rigging is a simple task that can help to save you time and money in the long run.

How to Check the Standing Rigging

When it comes to checking sailboat rigging, one of the most important things to inspect is the standing rigging.

This includes all the components that are permanently attached to the mast, such as the stays, halyards, and sheets.

It is essential to check for any signs of corrosion, rust, or other damage, as well as to make sure all the connections are secure and have the proper tension.

To check the standing rigging, start by looking for any signs of rust or corrosion.

If there is any rust or corrosion present, it should be addressed immediately.

If the rust or corrosion is severe, the rigging should be replaced.

Next, inspect all the connections, such as the stays, halyards, and sheets, for security and proper tension.

Make sure the fittings are secure and the tension is even throughout.

Once all the connections are secure, check the tension of the standing rigging.

This can be done by using a tension meter or a turnbuckle gauge.

If the tension is too loose, it can affect the sail shape and performance, so it’s important to adjust the tension as necessary.

Finally, inspect all the running rigging, such as the sheets and halyards, for any signs of wear or damage.

If any damage is found, it should be addressed immediately.

By regularly inspecting and maintaining your sailboat rigging, you can ensure that your sailboat is safe and seaworthy.

Taking the time to check the standing rigging for signs of rust, corrosion, and damage, as well as adjusting the tension as necessary, can help prevent problems in the future and keep your sailboat in top condition.

How to Check the Running Rigging

When it comes to checking the running rigging on a sailboat, there are several key elements to look for.

Firstly, check for any signs of wear and tear on the lines.

Frayed or worn lines are a sign that the line needs to be replaced and should be done as soon as possible.

Additionally, inspect the blocks, cleats, and shackles for any signs of rust or corrosion.

These components should be rust-free and free of any signs of damage.

Once you have checked the rig for any signs of wear or damage, it is time to adjust the tension.

Proper tension ensures that your lines are tight and secure, and will help ensure the sailboat runs smoothly.

To adjust the tension, use a combination of a winch and a tension gauge.

The winch will help to secure the line while the tension gauge will help you to ensure the tension is correct.

Finally, inspect the running rigging, such as the sheets and halyards, for any signs of wear or damage.

Be sure to look for any fraying or wear and tear, as this could potentially lead to the failure of the line while sailing.

Additionally, check that the halyard is properly tensioned and secure.

If the halyard is too loose, it could lead to the sail becoming loose or unbalanced while sailing.

With the proper attention and care, you can ensure that your sailboat is ready for any adventure and will be able to handle the demands of the open sea.

How to Check Connections for Security and Proper Tension

When it comes to checking sailboat rigging, it is important to ensure that all connections, such as the stays, halyards, and sheets, are secure and have the proper tension.

This means checking all the fastenings and any points of contact between the rigging and the boat, as well as ensuring that the tension is correct.

To do this, you should first inspect the rigging for any signs of wear or damage, such as rust, frayed lines, or broken strands.

If you find any, these should be replaced before the inspection is continued.

Next, you should check the tension of the stays and halyards.

The tension should be firm, but not so tight that it is overly restrictive.

To check the tension, you should use a tension gauge or a special tool such as a turnbuckle, which can be used to adjust the tension as necessary.

Finally, it is important to check all the other connections, such as the sheets and halyards, for any signs of wear or damage, and to make sure that they are firmly secured.

Taking the time to check the connections for security and proper tension can help prevent damage or injury due to faulty rigging.

Tips for Maintaining Sailboat Rigging

When it comes to sailboat rigging, it is important to pay attention to the details. Regular maintenance and inspection should be done to ensure that your sailboat is safe and seaworthy. Here are some tips for keeping your sailboat rigging in top condition:

1. Check for signs of wear and tear: Frayed lines, rust, or other damage should be checked for regularly. Additionally, inspect all connections, such as stays, halyards, and sheets for security and proper tension.

2. Regularly inspect the standing rigging: Look for any signs of corrosion or damage and be sure to adjust the tension as necessary.

3. Inspect the running rigging: This includes sheets and halyards, and check for any signs of wear or damage.

4. Test the rigging: After inspecting the rigging, it is important to test the rigging to make sure everything is in working order.

5. Replace any worn parts: If you find any parts that are worn or damaged, it is important to replace them right away.

6. Clean the rigging: Regularly cleaning the rigging can help to reduce the buildup of dirt and grime, as well as prevent corrosion.

7. Regularly lubricate the rigging: Lubricating the rigging will help to keep it in top condition and reduce friction.

8. Store the rigging correctly: Make sure you store the rigging in a dry and protected area.

By following these simple tips, you can ensure that your sailboat rigging is in top condition and safe to use.

Regular maintenance and inspection can help you avoid costly repairs and ensure that your sailboat is safe and seaworthy.

Additionally, it is important to consult an expert if you are uncertain about any aspect of rigging maintenance, as they can provide valuable advice and guidance.

Troubleshooting Sailboat Rigging Problems

When it comes to troubleshooting sailboat rigging problems, there are a number of things to consider.

First and foremost, it is important to inspect all the parts of the rigging for any signs of wear, damage, or corrosion.

This includes checking the lines, stays, halyards, sheets, and other rigging components for any signs of fraying, rust, or other damage.

Additionally, it is important to check the connections between the parts of the rigging for security and proper tension.

Finally, it is important to inspect the standing and running rigging for any signs of corrosion or damage, and to adjust the tension as necessary.

If you find any issues with the rigging, it is important to address the problem as soon as possible.

Depending on the issue, you may be able to make the necessary repairs yourself, or you may need to take the boat to a professional for more extensive repairs.

If you are unsure of what to do, it is best to consult with a professional or an experienced sailor.

If you are having trouble with the running rigging, such as the sheets and halyards, it is important to check that they are properly tensioned and that they are not too loose or too tight.

Additionally, if you find any frayed lines or other damage, it is important to replace them as soon as possible.

Finally, it is important to regularly inspect and maintain your sailboat rigging.

This will ensure that your boat is safe and seaworthy, and that you can enjoy your sailing experience without any worries.

Final Thoughts

It’s clear that checking sailboat rigging is an important part of maintaining a safe and seaworthy boat.

By regularly inspecting the standing and running rigging, making sure the connections are secure and in proper tension, and following tips for maintenance, you can ensure that your sailboat rigging is in good condition.

Now that you know how to check sailboat rigging, take the time to inspect your own rigging and address any potential issues before they become a problem.

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

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• Digital Edition

Pip Hare explains when to check and replace your standing rigging

• October 1, 2020

To prepare my IMOCA 60 Medallia for the Vendée Globe race, I have completed a full change of all the standing rigging

If the mast is stepped, the only way to thoroughly inspect rig fittings at the masthead is to go up there... Photo: James Mitchell

This was a ‘no brainer’ decision as my rigging has been around the world once already and I would never take it into the Southern Ocean for a second time.

In some ways it is easier to estimate the life of synthetic rigging, as it comes with a recommended mileage or stated lifespan if it can be UV damaged. For those with stainless steel rigging the decision on when to replace can be a harder one.

The main difficulties boat owners face when assessing the condition of the rig is the inability to see the first signs of wear, partly due to the majority of our rigging being out of sight in the sky, and partly due to the nature of metal fatigue itself.

Professional rig checks often lead to last-minute repairs for transatlantic ARC sailors. Photo: James Mitchell

The fact is that metal fatigue is inevitable and cannot be avoided. The only thing that will vary is the time a component takes to fail. So how can we make a good assessment of when rigging should be replaced?

There are a number of factors that will affect the lifespan of your standing rigging, most notably the initial quality of the rigging used and the type and frequency of sailing that you do.

Rigging quality

The quality of both wire and rod rigging is important because in both the crack initiation and growth phases of the fatigue process can be accelerated by metal impurities or unseen manufacturing defects in the component itself. Using high quality wire rigging from a well known supplier is a bigger initial outlay but the grade of metal used and manufacturing process should prolong the life of your rigging.

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When buying a secondhand boat, find out when the rigging was last replaced and try to get a copy of the invoice detailing who the supplier was – if you’re not sure, ask a rigger to take a look at it.

How you sail

In crude terms, every time your boat is used it is advancing the process of metal fatigue through the application of cyclical loads, so a boat that is raced regularly and hard will be approaching the point at which rigging failure could occur faster than a boat which is cruised intermittently.

This doesn’t mean that lightly used boats will never have to consider changing their rigging; even a dormant boat will be experiencing load cycles in some form when the mast is up. Just the action of the wind on a mast is enough to load up the rigging and any stays left loose will move with wind and wave action.

It’s not unusual for rigging wires to fracture around the swage collar

To minimise the stress caused by these load cycles while sailing it’s important to tune your rig regularly so the rigging is always at optimum tension. This will help ensure that changes in load are less extreme.

If you are not confident to set up your own rig tensions then ask your rigger to help, and later be sure to check your rig throughout the season.

Regular rigging checks

There are a couple of ways to test for early signs of fatigue not picked up by the naked eye; they include dye and NDT (non-destructive testing).

Water can enter swage terminals leading to crevis corrosion. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Both these surveys need to be carried out with the rig down and it may be worth balancing the overall cost of carrying out the test against the additional cost of re-rigging the boat, especially bearing in mind that if any faults or impurities are discovered your insurance may then require you to change the rigging anyway.

Regular visual checks should pick up the first signs of crack growth. Look for rust on T-terminals and at swage ends, check for powdery corrosion where T-terminals insert into the mast and any signs of cracking in the same area.

Run your fingers up and down the last metre of wire above or below the swage, feeling for deformities; if the wire is not uniform the chances are that one of the individual wires has broken, even if you can’t see it, and the stay and its partner should be replaced immediately.

Visual checks for rust and powdery corrosion are your first line of defence. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Checking the head of T-terminals is a harder job as they are inside the mast itself. This will need to be done with the mast removed so a full ‘mast down’ survey carried out by a professional rigger should be scheduled at least every three years.

Picking up early signs of corrosion or replacing select components after a thorough inspection is a worthwhile exercise because it may extend the lifespan of your standing rigging.

Inevitably your insurance policy will play a big part in your decision making about whether to replace your rigging. There has been a general assumption within the sailing community that insurance companies require rigging to be replaced after ten years, but I’ve found this is not actually the case; it’s far less prescriptive than that.

A small crack has developed in this stemhead fitting just above the forestay clevis pin

The IPID (Insurance Product Information Document) with your policy should give you a clear indication of what is covered in the event of a dismasting and may also provide some food for thought on when you should replace.

Insurance companies do not stipulate a timeframe at which your standing rigging should be replaced, but they do stipulate that all parts of the boat should be regularly and appropriately checked and maintained.

In the event of a dismasting claim, the insurance company would expect to see evidence of rigging maintenance and checks carried out at appropriate intervals by a qualified person; DIY inspections will not be accepted.

It is also worth taking note that in most insurance policies a depreciation element will be applied. This normally constitutes a deduction of one third of the new value of a rig and would start to come into play when a rig approaches 10-12 years old.

Emotional cost

There’s a consequential impact of a dismasting which cannot be covered by an insurance claim, and that is the human and emotional cost. In my own sailing career I’ve had two failures of standing rigging components which I spotted while sailing and was able to jury rig for a safe return to port. I’ve also experienced a dismasting, and I can vouch that it’s not a pleasant experience.

As a regular racer I take the health of my rig very seriously, perform checks before every major race and take my rig down annually for a thorough inspection. But this is the schedule that is right for me and the miles I sail, and would be considered overkill for the average sailor. Only you can give a proper evaluation of how often and how hard your boat is used, but that makes you ultimately responsible for setting the maintenance and replacement schedule.

Metal fatigue

Wires can break, unseen, within swaged terminals

Crack initiation starts when the metal first gets put to work and is caused by the cyclical loading of metal components. In the case of standing rigging on a sailing boat, this is the loading and unloading of shrouds and stays. Think about the windward shrouds loading up, while the leeward side relaxes: this cyclical loading causes cell structures to develop within the metal, these cells gradually harden and then develop microscopic cracks.

The crack growth stage follows next and these microscopic cracks will develop into larger ones, which may eventually be visible to the naked eye on the surface of the metal component. The speed of the crack growth phase will alter depending on how often and how hard your rigging is put under load.

Ultimate failure is caused when a crack exceeds a size that results in the component no longer supporting load. Failure will be sudden.

First published in the September 2020 issue of Yachting World.

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Sailboat Rig Inspection Tips

Some rigging woes are the result of our own good intentions..

Wandering among the boats stored for winter on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, many with their masts removed and in storage, I’m reminded of how easy it is to overlook the warning signs of an impending rig failure. I figured that now, when some of us have our masts within reach from ground-level, would be a good time to share again this report on inspecting your mast, rigging, chainplates, and turnbuckles. It’s as pertinent today as it was then, back in the black-and-white, courier-font days.

How frequently do you bother removing spreader boots and taping to check the condition of the spreaders and rigging? No matter how well the spreader ends are protected, and whether you use ready-made vinyl spreader boots or conventional rigging tape, water will get through to the fittings inside. On a boat used in saltwater, the corrosive nature can cause rapid disintegration of aluminum fittings (nevermind the fact that the spreaders might be 25 feet or more off the water). The thorough taping job you did on the spreader ends may actually accelerate the problem by holding in water.

The problem can be just as bad on a boat with wooden spreaders. Wooden spreaders are usually spruce, a wood with very low resistance to rot. Water trapped by spreader boots, or taping at the inboard ends of the spreaders at the mast fittings, can rot a spruce spreader in a single season. Keeping wood spreaders varnished can help, but it is no guarantee of protection. Wooden spreaders are almost always fitted with metal ends, both at the mast and at the spreaders outboard end. If these fittings were not thoroughly bedded with compound when the spreader was assembled, all the varnish in the world won’t keep water out of the joint between the spreader and the metal end fitting.

And water sitting in this joint will eventually cause the spreader to rot. If the boat is decommissioned some time during the year, thats the time to make a careful inspection of the rig and rigging. Every component must be gone over thoroughly.

First, check the mast tube for problems. Do the masthead sheaves turn freely? Are the edges of the sheaves worn, so that a halyard might jump the sheave and wedge itself between the sheave and its box? Is the mast dimpled, or bent? Worn sheaves should be replaced.

Stainless-steel wire tends to chew aluminum sheaves over time, particularly those used for spinnaker halyards. Sheaves that show only slight wear or burrs should be dressed smooth with a file. There should be no sideways play in halyard sheaves. Space between the sheave and the sheave box can be eliminated with micarta shims, which will also help prevent the sheaves from seizing. Seized shims can usually be freed with liberal applications of a solvent and heat applied with a propane torch. Finding a replacement sheave for an older boat like John Foster’s Nonsuch 22 can open up a can of worms.

Physical damage to the mast tube in the form of dimpling, wrinkling, or bending requires professional analysis by a sparmaker. This type of damage rarely happens when the mast is in the boat. It is more likely to result from a shipping accident, or from stepping or unstepping the mast. A mast can become permanently bent through improper blocking during storage, however. Look for grooves in the mast extrusion where internal halyards exit the mast. Check the mast heel for corrosion. Corrosion at the heel of the mast is probably the most common problem with keel-stepped aluminum spars. The cure is to keep the area of the mast step in the bilge bone dry, and provide drain holes in the mast heel and mast step.

Deck-stepped spars are not immune to heel corrosion, and also require drain holes in both the heel and the step. Examine all mast fittings, winches, and cleats for signs of corrosion between the fitting and the mast. Unless the fittings are bedded, there’s a good chance of serious pitting here. The first clue is likely to be a powdery white deposit around the edge of the fitting. All fittings on the mast should be bedded in an elastometric marine sealant that will galvanically isolate the hardware, as well as protect damaged finish. (Riggers preferences for this job range from 3Ms 101 polysulfide to 3M UV4000 or Sikaflex 291-the latter two have the advantage of faster curing. See our article on marine sealants for more on this topic.) Other options include using either zinc chromate paste or plastic shims-neither of which have adhesive properties but do isolate the dissimilar metals. Check all the rigging tangs on the mast. Look particularly for elongated clevis pinholes or cracks radiating from clevis pin holes or points of attachment to the mast tube.

Any damage to tangs is unacceptable. Elongation or cracking means the metal of the tang is too thin for the load, or there is simply not enough metal between the clevis hole and the edges or end of the fitting. Brownish discoloration on tangs should be polished out using a stainless steel cleaner or buffing pad to make examination easier. Don’t use sandpaper or a harsh abrasive. You may destroy the surface polish of the stainless steel, which is its major source of discoloration protection. Badly discolored wire or fittings should probably be discarded. Any wire having a sharp kink in it should be replaced. Any swage fitting that is cracked should be replaced, although the lack of cracking is not necessarily an indication of health.

Stress corrosion cracking can be a serious problem with stainless steels on boats kept in salt water and warm climates. The greatest danger from stress corrosion is that a stressed fitting usually appears to be in perfect condition prior to failure. Many mysterious rigging failures are no doubt due to this little known and often misunderstood problem. There is evidence, however, that keeping rigging clean and polished with a product containing lanolin or silicone can decrease the possibility of a failure due to stress corrosion cracking.

Carefully examine each strand of rigging wire, including terminals, toggles, turnbuckles, clevis and cotter pins. Every season, a very expensive rig goes by the boards because a bolt is temporarily inserted in place of a missing clevis pin.

Any swage fittings having a banana shank, a curved shank that results from passing the fitting through the swaging machine without using the proper guide, should be replaced. Likewise, retire any cracked or bent turnbuckles or toggles. Seized turnbuckles should be freed using a penetrating oil such as WD-40, and heat from a propane torch. Brute force is almost guaranteed to ruin turnbuckles with screws under 3/8-inch.

Remove the tape and examine inboard and outboard ends of spreaders. Check leading and trailing edges of spreaders carefully, particularly if the spreaders are airfoil-shaped, welded aluminum sections. Wire halyards can wear through them very quickly.

Halyards should be carefully examined. Wire halyards, in particular, should be checked for meathooks. Running the halyard through your palm is an accurate, but sometimes painful way to detect meathooks. A better way to find burrs and broken strands is to rub over the shrouds and halyards with a piece of cheese cloth or an old nylon stocking. This method, however, is not a substitute for a careful visual examination.

The most likely places for meat hooks to develop are wherever the halyard changes direction over a sheave. As a rule, any halyard with more than one broken strand per 10 feet of length should be replaced. A halyard with a broken strand where the halyard wraps around a thimble should be shortened or replaced.

Check wire-to-rope splices for fraying. If the splice spends much of its life wrapped around a winch drum, the part of the wire inside the cover of the rope can chafe through the ropes cover. Chafe is also the enemy of all rope halyards, whether they are polyester, or more exotic materials like Spectra to Vectran. If you have switched from polyester halyards to one of these materials, you may also have to change sheaves. Halyard sheaves scored for both wire and rope are unsuitable for use with some other types of halyards.

Key wear spots for rope halyards are at the headboard shackle, over sheaves, and where the halyard is held by cam cleats or line stoppers. Rope halyards should be ordered with extra length to allow yearly shortening to remove the work sections at the top of the mast. This advice applies only to rope materials and braids that are easily re-spliced after moderate use, or those ropes that happily take a knot. Remember knotting will reduce strength significantly, so know your loads, the strength reduction a knot will impart, inspect frequently, and use common sense. Splices are preferable; but a halyard hitch (or some variation) serves fine on smaller vessels. On these boats typical halyard diameters offer a large safety margin, even when you take into account the strength reduction introduced by a knot. On larger vessels the safety margins in halyards are achieved through high-strength, low-stretch fibers and braids that may not lend themselves to knotting or re-splicing. For a guide to halyards materials and breaking strengths see Practical Sailors Guide to Choosing Cost-Efficient Halyard Materials .

Although re-splicing old rope is difficult, it is not impossible. Rigger Brion Toss gives the following advice for sending in old rope for splicing:

“ We prefer not to splice used rope, so if we agree to work on your used rope – we will ask you to first wash it with soap flakes. Put the coiled gasket of rope (see instructions in the Rigger’s Apprentice ) in the washing machine on gentle cycle. rinse well, and add fabric softener. Then undo the coil and loop it around the garage to dry in the air or take it outside and do the same. Now your rope will be soft and much nicer to handle.”

We also described the best way to clean rope in June 2011.

Halyard shackles also deserve close attention, as I explored in my blog on The Case of the Broken Snap Shackle .

Another surprising trouble spot on the average keel-stepped aluminum mast is the mast boot. Water lying between the rubber mast boot and the mast tube can cause severe corrosion of the aluminum tube on boats used in salt water. This is particularly common in mast boots secured with stainless-steel hose clamps, and corrosion can occur even when no water reaches the interior of the boat. At least once a year, loosen the mast boot. Bedding the boot to the mast will alleviate but not necessarily completely prevent this type of damage. The area under the mast boot is probably second only to the mast heel as a potential trouble spot.

A once a year top-to-bottom inspection of the rig is a simple way to prevent minor problems from becoming major. With the exception of structurally marginal racing masts, most rig losses are caused by component failures that are largely detectable before problems occur.

While it is far easier to examine the rig with it removed from the boat, the same inspection can be conducted, less quickly and comfortably, from the bosuns chair. Your time and effort will most certainly be rewarded, and if you’re lucky you’ll also enjoy the view.

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Well, in my opinion, there is one note missing in all articles about rigging replacement. It is the fact that the quality of the old standing rigging made in the USA or other countries (not China!) is way above today’s offers on the market! All China-made rigging like chains, cables, lines, etc, etc is not up to the standard specifications we used in the past, which leads to questionable dependability and safety. So, if one finds that old rigging, is not at visible fault one should think twice about replacing the old rigging. In the past, we used to replace standing rigging at least every 10 years. It did make sense. In the times when we are flooded with poor quality marine products from China, I find out in my practice that this is not necessary unless a REPUTABLE RIGGER will advise doing so! Then make sure it is not from China. I am not a rigger or marketer just a user with hundreds of miles at sea and experiencing/witnessing constant and growing problems with so-called cheap marine staff on boats! Now, remember it is how I see it, and you need to make your own decision in those matters, it’s your safety!

I’ve replaced rigging numerous times because it was time, but the actual failures and close calls deserve to be called out:

Toggles formed from bent stainless. I’ve had several crack mid-bend, aggravated by rigging that was a bit slack during hard going (it is hard to keep the leeward shrouds tight on light multihulls00the boat is not stiff enough)

Coated rigging. Just as coated lifelines are a risk factor, coated shrouds and waterstays are a menace. I’ve had two fail, fortunately with no more harm than a runaway reacher. No coated rigging.

Moused U-bolt pin backed out. The safety wire snapped. I only noticed it when it was on the last two threads! It was also not the first time I’ve seen rigging wire snap, almost certainly because it was over stressed when installing. That’s why you check.

Wire halyard grew some meat hooks. These jammed the head block, making it impossible to lower the main and requiring climbing underway (no climbing gear on the boat, so that was… different).

Dyneema. I know it’s the rage, but watch the age and condition. I had a shroud tensioner snap (did not result in dismasting) probably due to age, though it should have been 20 times the required strength. Perhaps there was unseen chafe (PS testing has shown that minor damamge can weaken it more than you would think, depending on the exact pattern). There is still a lot we don’t know about monitoring Dyneema.

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Tuning A Sailboat Rig

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If your sailboat seems slower, follow our how-to on tuning your rig for optimal performance.

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Spring is a time of prepping your boat for the coming season. While powerboaters fine-tune their engines, sailors should consider fine-tuning their rigs. Doing it yourself may seem intimidating, but it shouldn't be. Anyone reasonably handy can do it in a few hours. The reward is easier and faster sailing throughout the coming season.

Let's start with the basics for new sailors. With a few exceptions, a sailboat mast is held up by a series of stainless-steel wires. But those wires also perform several other equally important functions. When a sailboat is at rest and there is no wind blowing, the stress on these wires is very light with almost all the load downward toward the keel. However, when the boat is sailing and heeled over in a fresh breeze, more stress is placed on the wires and they have to work harder to hold the mast upright and stop it from bending.

The wires that prevent the mast from moving from side to side are called shrouds, and the ones that prevent fore and aft movement are called stays. The larger and taller the mast, the greater the load, and the number of shrouds and stays required. On a typical cruiser, say up to about 35 feet, there will generally be one forestay, one backstay, and two shrouds on each side.

To get the best performance from your boat and sails, the rigging needs to be set up correctly — often called "tuning the rig." The rig should be tuned with the boat in the water on a day with little to no wind. You'll also want to be away from wakes and other boats that can rock your boat. To start, the turnbuckles for the stays and shrouds should be hand-tight only. This is sufficient to hold up the rig but places no strain on anything — yet. Lay on your back on the boat's foredeck and sight up the front of the mast. It should be perfectly straight with no bends or kinks. Next, tighten the lower shrouds — these are the ones that do not go all the way to the top of the mast and often attach to the mast at the base of the crosstrees (the two horizontal spars at the upper ends of the topmasts).

You'll need a large screwdriver to rotate the turnbuckle, and a wrench to hold the shroud fitting and prevent it turning as you tighten. Give a couple of complete turns on either side. Have a helper release the main halyard and keep a little tension while you pull down the end that normally attaches to the mainsail until it just touches the top of the toerail adjacent to the chain plate. Have your helper cleat off the halyard, then swing the halyard over the boom and check the measurement on the other side. They should be the same. If not, adjust the turnbuckles until they the measurement is equal on port and starboard.

Adjusting and tuning a sailboat rig will often bring benefits such as easier handling and better performance.

Next do the same for the cap shrouds, these are the ones that go to the top of the mast, but note that due to the length of the shrouds, it is easy to bend the mast to either port or starboard. With the shrouds adjusted, sight up the mast one more time to ensure that it is still straight.

Next comes the fore and aft adjustment, which is made with the backstay and forestay. Masts should be plumb or lie back slightly. It should never rake forward. A good starting point is to tighten up the forestay and backstay a little over hand-tight. Use the main halyard as a plumb bob. Cleat off the halyard so the free end is just clear of the top of the boom and let it hang. If the shackle on the end of the halyard hits the mast, the mast is likely too far forward, so slacken off the forestay and tighten the backstay. Adjust a little at a time until the end of the halyard hangs free — 4 or 5 inches is a good starting point.

You'll need to install cotter pins into the turnbuckles to prevent them loosening over time, but before doing that, take the boat for a sail when the wind is blowing about 10 knots and see how everything works. With the boat on a beam reach, note the tightness of the windward shrouds. If they appear slack, they will need to be adjusted up. If the boat is hard on the tiller or wheel and tries to turn into wind, the mast has too much aft rake, so you'll want to slacken the backstay and tighten up on the forestay a little. If the bow wants to turn away from the wind, the mast is too far forward, so you'll need to move the mast back a little.

If you are at all unsure about tackling this task, play it safe and smart — seek out the services of a qualified rigger who has access to rig tension gauges and other specialized tools.

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Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

A marine surveyor and holder of RYA Yachtmaster Ocean certification, BoatUS Magazine contributing editor Mark Corke is one of our DIY gurus, creating easy-to-follow how-to articles and videos. Mark has built five boats himself (both power and sail), has been an experienced editor at several top boating magazines (including former associate editor of BoatUS Magazine), worked for the BBC, written four DIY books, skippered two round-the-world yachts, and holds the Guinness World Record for the fastest there-and-back crossing of the English Channel — in a kayak! He and his wife have a Grand Banks 32.

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• Cruising Sailboat Standing Rigging Inspection

In Part 1 we got the mast out of the boat and worked for hours inspecting a bunch of stuff…and now we get to work some more.

Still, all this effort is worth it to prevent a gravity storm, so let’s carry on.

And, just so you don’t totally despair at the prospect of reading all this boring detail, don’t forget that this is leading to the much-requested rig-inspection checklist .

So grab a cup of highly caffeinated coffee and let’s do it right. Deferred gratification is good for mast karma.

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• Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 1
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• Rig Tuning, Part 1—Preparation
• Rig Tuning, Part 2—Understanding Rake and Bend
• Rig Tuning, Part 3—6 Steps to a Great Tune
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Hi John, A very nice series of articles. A few thoughts: There are (perhaps were at this time) rod rigging maintenance books that did not mention a dab of grease on the cold molded heads prior to re-assembly My rigger, now retired, said rod should be replaced every 100,000nm, but he said it depended on the size of the rod. It has been a while, but I remember larger rod needed to be replaced sooner than the rod on smaller boats. I would be curious about whether that can be confirmed. In Europe, I had a required periodic insurance survey which mentioned replacement of wire rigging every 8 years and rod at 10 years. I tried to challenge that and failed: in part as I was told all surveyors in the UK and EU adhered to that schedule. Mileage did not matter. In a number of my overwintering yards, over the years, I have had to leave the mast up. I always pressured up the backstay adjuster a bit and firmed up the running backstays to keep the rig from movement. I am always surprised when 6 months later everything is as I left it. (Having pressure on the backstay adjuster also keeps the adjuster from “breathing” as the atmospheric pressure changes which saves wear on the seals- I never leave it completely slack even at anchor). If it fails, there is a default position for my backstay adjuster that is basically full slack. I tried to tension the rig by bringing the turnbuckle to its most closed position and the backstay was not nearly tensioned enough when it was full slack. I had a pair of “tangs” made that were a few inches shorter than the default length of the adjuster. This allowed me to replace the whole adjuster with the tangs and get good tension on the backstay, albeit not adjustable. I was living aboard full-time and this was nice as well because I could continue to sail while the adjuster was off the boat for servicing, which often took a while if needing to be sent off. I wanted to consider DIY Dyform rigging when I re-rigged in the UK, but was told that Dyform was the name of the wire made in the UK, but that the company had stopped making it as they could not compete with the compacted wire coming out of Asia. I attempted to explore the province of the compacted wire I could find, but that was too confusing. Riggers I consulted and were working with were wary, so I went with rod. This was 10+ years ago, so please check it out. One rigger I know and some experienced sailors say that a rig that has been to sea in a hurricane should have the rigging made new. Same advice for a really hard grounding. In other words, some shock loading and abuse can be cause for re-rigging. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

All good information. The big take aways for me are that no one really knows what the right replacement periods are, and further we have to guard against those expressing opinions that are more about serving their own interests than based on any real facts. I know of one rigger that states on their site that all rod should be replaced every six years, clearly more about commercial gain than anything else.

As to getting longer than ten years out of Rod, I was offered that at 12 years in 2019 by Pantaenius UK as long as I had the heads NDT tested, so I think that is a valid option, although, as always, it depends on the underwriter you end up talking to.

Can’t really see how the size of the rod would make a difference to required replacement time. I would think that would be more about the safety margins the designer had built into the rod sizing than anything else.

Although it is only of interest to a minuscule number of AAC readers, you are correct in noting that wooden boats, or at least plank on frame ones, cannot stand having their rig set up so hard that the lee shrouds do not go slack when hard on the wind. The traditional structure is simply not rigid enough although a modern wood/epoxy composite boat may be. The resulting flapping around is no doubt hard on the gear, but not as destructive as over stressing the structure would be. I wonder about the rigidity of some fibreglass boats as well, having sailed aboard some that did a lot of creaking and groaning in rough weather.

Another “advantage” of a wooden boat with a wooden mast is that the mast needs varnish every year. This is infinitely easier to do when it is horizontal rather than vertical and a lot easier when all of the standing and running rigging is removed. So, I unstep the mast and strip the gear every year which forces a close inspection of everything.

I have always had the notion that bronze turnbuckles, toggles and related hardware are not as subject to fatigue failure as stainless, but perhaps that is incorrect.

As you might of guessed, I put in that exception based on education from the horribly overpaid AAC wooden boat consultant…you.

Certainly makes sense since plank on frame wood will, in my limited experence, tend to permanently change shape over time if in any way over loaded. I’m thinking about wooden boats that hog over time, when I say that.

I wonder if this is a function of plank on frame not being a homogenous material, so that over loading changes the relationship between the planks and frames—slippage if you will.

And extrapolating from that maybe that’s why fibreglass boats, if properly constructed, are happy enough to have the lee shrouds tight without permanent damage.

A key point in all of this is that (counterintuitively) having the lee shrouds just firm when going to windward does not increase the maximum load on rig or hull when underway. Said load is governed by the maximum stability of the boat.

However, said no-slack tune, does increase the load on the hull when the boat is at rest, so I’m thinking that may be the problem.

A good discussion of that here: https://loosnaples.com/how-tos/tension-gauges/

And yes, as far as I know, bronze does not have the deterioration issues of stainless steel.

This all seems very reasonable. At the same time, it is very frustrating to me that we throw away huge amounts of rigging that is still in perfectly fine shape by coming up with a conservative time and miles based approach. In truth, conservatively sized rigging that has been well looked after and not damaged could go indefinitely. Unfortunately, I don’t know how you would practically implement this as conservatively sized would need to be quantified for each design and then you would need to make sure that it was always in good shape and never had any bad loading (forestays are subject to not nice loads so I would still replace them). And your engineer is spot on that little knicks on the surface are a really big deal in any highly loaded structure. So all in, I think your recommendation is about right.

One technique that I find very helpful when inspecting wire is to simply run your hand around it while it has a preload on it and make sure it is still round, if it feels lumpy at all, you have a problem. I do this around any areas that could be higher stress such as at the exits of fittings and around spreader tips. This is in no way a substitution for a more detailed check but it is something that you can check very quickly on a quick deck walk or whenever up the rig. I am going to have to try the trick of a phone for a magnifying glass, it will certainly be more stylish than the magnifying visor I use.

Regarding wire quality, it is definitely an issue and it is actually an issue with most materials now. The more reputable suppliers are likely to include a material cert and/or a certificate of conformance with each reel of wire without even being asked. Asking your rigger is not a bad idea although I suspect not all will be able to produce one even if they originally received it. I have gotten a copy with each set of wire that I have bought. One thing that I think is probably equally important is if you are having a rigger do a swage, ask for proof of calibration on the swaging machine. The dies in these wear and other things can get out and then you may have a swage that looks good but won’t hold well. I can think of 2 riggers who told me that they haven’t had any issues so they couldn’t see why it would be checked and on one of them, I looked at a terminal in their shop and could see it was no good but they were very busy making ends for people.

Great comment, full of great tips, thank you. I will include them in the final check list and then update these in depth articles with them.

To that end, three follow up questions:

• Could you elaborate a bit on checking for out of round by feel. I’m having trouble visualizing how I could feel an inconsistency, particularly in small diameter wire, that would not be gross enough to jump out at me visually.
• Do you know anything about the process of calibrating a swaging machine, and who would do that?
• What was it you saw on the swage that was “no good” that tipped you off that the machine was out of calibration?

Regarding feeling the wire to see if it is out of round, it just feels a tiny bit lumpy to me. If you take a 50′ long shroud, each individual strand is significantly longer, like maybe 60′. Winding around each other is what makes the end product only 50′. If you have a broken strand, the rest of the strands are trying to make a straighter line which is a lower energy state so they will pull in and force the loose strand out a bit as it is no longer held in by tension. It is subtle but you can feel it. I have felt it a few times including on a boat I was about to deliver, my parents daysailor and some club boats at a club my wife used to belong to so we could sail weeknights too. In all cases that I can remember, the broken strand had broken just inside the swage fitting so a visual inspection would not have caught it right away and we really had to look and sometimes cut to find it. I don’t know the incidence rate of breaking just inside the fitting versus just outside and it may be that there are many more failures outside but those are more easily caught. Regardless, if a strand is fully broken and there is tension on the wire, it will feel out of round in that area.

I am not totally sure what the calibration process is for these machines but I am aware of a few things that are done to check or calibrate. There are a series of MIL standards (MS51844E for example) for this stuff that I believe most people will use but there may be other standards I am not aware of.  The most basic check is measuring the OD of a swaged fitting which can be done with a micrometer or calipers. This is actually something that can be done on every fitting and given how quick it is, may make sense as a customer. You can find charts of the acceptable range pretty easily, here is an example from Hayn:  https://hayn.com/swage-specifications/

I would hope at the very least that any rigger has a go/no-go gauge and is checking the fittings but I am not confident that actually happens. You can also do a pull test of a few samples. There are many calibration services out there that handle all sorts of different tools and machinery and it is very common for people with equipment to have a calibration contract with them. There are generally 2 types of services, one where they actually perform a calibration and adjust or replace components as needed or one where they simply provide a measurement of where you are in your calibration range and then it is your responsibility to get service if needed. In truth, a lot of the calibration checks can be done yourself but you don’t get to claim that a professional calibration service did it so it depends on what you need. The real question is what you do if you measure and find you are out of calibration. Typically, that would mean you would need to check all samples since the last calibration that passed which is part of the reason why you try to make sure to never fail by doing preventative maintenance and regular calibration checks. Having said all this, it may be that you should either plan to measure and visually inspect the fittings upon receipt or you should be certain that your rigger is using a go/no-go (that is isn’t worn, these actually typically get calibration checked too) or measuring.

What you will see for poor swages depends a bit on the machine used, I think that by far the most common will be roller but there is some rotary going on in the marine world too. As Colin mentioned, some fittings can come out of straight. I don’t actually know at what point a fitting would fail but if I could visually see this, I wouldn’t want it unless the fitting manufacturer had a spec for acceptable that it was within. In the case that I could see, the fittings were noticeably not round either due to the dies being too worn or the shafts being out of parallel but I don’t think any number of passes (2 is usually the recommended and the max is like 3-4) would have fixed it. I also strongly suspect that a basic caliper measurement would show that the fittings had not been fully compressed but I didn’t need to go that far to know to walk away.

That’s great, thanks. As soon as you pointed out that a lump would appear to indicate a broken strand inside a swage, I got it. I will definitely add that to the check list and the above.

Also, thanks for the fill on checking swages, I will add that too.

Eric. What are your thought on checking the head diameters with a mic or caliper ( don’t like these as much, not as accurate) when the mast is out? Would there be apossibility of wear or deformation of the heads on older rigging? I had a surveyor tell me that the rig was too tight on The CS 30 that I bought last year. I am wondering if this constitutes the abuse that John mentioned? Thank you.

Colin Post CS 30 Top Hat

These are not measurements that should change over time, they tell you if the original swaging job was done properly. The outside diameters of swage fittings are not subject to wear and if there has been plastic deformation, that is a problem and you want to know it and condemn the fitting. Good calipers are fine for this, the tolerance band is reasonably wide but using a mic certainly doesn’t hurt and can help if you are right on the edge of the band.

How did your surveyor determine that the rig was overtensioned? Did they use a gauge? Did you sail the boat in 20 knots of wind and look at lee shrouds? Was the mast step deformed? Very few people will just be able to pull on the rig at the dock and do the mental calculation of the wire diameter, the span, etc and make an accurate determination. My limited experience with surveyors unfortunately suggests that you should be suspicious of statements like this from them. Still, it suggests you should carefully go through everything much like John has had to do with his new boat.

I would agree with Eric’s concerns about the surveyor’s assessment since it’s difficult for me to understand how he arrived at it in any sort of reliable way. It’s actually pretty difficult to over tension the rig on most production boats as the boat will bend long before the safety margins on the wire is exceeded.

Not all insurers are adamant about replacement of rigging at 8 or 10 years, so it’s worth asking them. As our rig was in perfectly good condition at ten years I asked our insurer if they would accept a rig inspection by a professional. They did, he did an excellent and through job and they extended our cover for two years. I’m in total agreement that rigging is not an area to skimp at all. Eric’s comment about bad quality swages due to worn and/or deformed swages is absolutely right. I’ve seen new swages that were bent or creased on a number of occasions and that’s just asking for trouble.

That’s good to hear. I remember you getting that done here in Nova Scotia. I will add that too.

Interesting discussion. My take on the considerable rig on Tanielle is to use SAF 2205 duplex stainless steel in rod form. I will machine end fittings from the same material and weld them to the rod. This ss is the same strength as Nitronic 50 but has far superior fatigue properties. My caps would require 26mm 316 but only 20mm 2205 rod saving weight and windage. So far the majority of mast manufacturers end communication once this is suggested so I imagine it will be impossible to insure the rig. I would see this rig lasting a very long time and probably never needing to be replaced. Of course it would still need inspecting and there will be galvanic issues with aluminium, eg foils and masts. An australian company Arcus Wire has the Hamma range of 2205 wire which I suspect is Indian. My next step will be to ask AE Smith the NZ rig engineer who did all the rig and mast calculations for Hoek design on Tanielle, to look at the 2205 issues and benefits.

Hi William, Your suggestions seem interesting. I’m not very competent on metals, but have noticed the benefits of duplex stainless. My question here wound be the welds. Wouldn’t they disrupt the uniform strength of the rod? The superior strength and corrosion resistance of duplex is usually explained by its tighter bidirectional crystalline structure. The welding process would leave a transition zone where the cold formed rod material goes from welded to not welded. I’d assume the crystalline structure would be left not homogenous, which would seem to be a weak spot? Even if this isn’t the case, I’d be wary of the transition from the thin rod to the larger terminal. Just the change in dimensions might make a focus point for loads…? All this is just questions, curiosity, not my opinions.

Since you seem positive to exotic materials and performance, a carbon mast would solve the corrosion problem, while simultaneously saving a lot of weight and being far stronger. While I’m at it: Using Dyneema for the standing rigging will also save a lot of weight, and money, and is easy to inspect and replace, which on the other hand must be done far more often. It will also be thicker than rod, but about the same as ordinary wire, so more drag in the air than rod. In my opinion, Dyneema is the only smart solution for a cruising multihull, due to the wide platform and rig configurations, while on a cruising monohull, I don’t think so. The high end racers use high modulus carbon rod these days. I’d never suggest that for a cruiser, but it does give minimum drag and max stiffness.

This is way past my pay grade, but your question about welding jumped into my mind too.

Hi William,

That’s interesting. That said, although I’m in no way qualified to evaluate your idea, my general recommendation for cruisers is to stay away from pioneering new technologies: https://www.morganscloud.com/2013/10/25/want-to-get-out-cruising-dont-be-a-pioneer/

Apologies if this is all obvious to you, I am not sure what you have studied in this regard. The old rule of thumb is that the higher strength an alloy is, the harder it is to attach to it. I have experience with Duplex 2205 but never with welding it and I would share some concerns voiced here about that unless there was a lot of tightly controlled post processing. Not only does welding affect the crystal structure, it leaves a prestress and leaves geometries that have stress concentrations if not processed right.

Most techniques of attachment like cut threads remove material and creates stress concentrations which decrease strength which is not good. There are some forming techniques such as used in heading rod, rolling threads, etc that build up material but these create geometric stress concentrations unless spread over an enormous area so that all changes are incredibly gradual.

There are some cool tricks that you can play to deal with a lot of this but I think applying them to rigging would get quite exotic and you should be looking to carbon or PBO or whatever first. For example, in fatigue applications engineers will sometimes spec things like shot peening, laser peening, cryogenic treating, etc but these all require process development and would require you to put a lot of different vendors together. I have spec’ed all the processes I listed at some point but they were always highly specialized applications where there would be lots of testing and we were willing to pay a lot for the performance needed.

Hi Stein, John and Eric, Welding duplex gives 100% strength. Tanielle is a 24m ketch built entirely from duplex. We got welding tips from the duplex supplier then did our own destructive tests It took 3 attempts with a 100 ton brake press to break a 30mm x 6mm piece joined by welding. The break was in the HAZ zone. The 2 welders were then certified by Lloyds as was the steel and welding wire. The yacht welds were also xrayed. In welding the rodto the forks I would drill a hole in the fork , then cut slots so the welds are in shear. The weld around the top would only be for appearance and to avoid a crevice. The fork would be machined from a solid bar. 2205 comes in differrent flavours and granular structures and my flavour is SAF 2205 which has a much finer granular structure and increased strength even before heat treatment. All up we used 38 kilometers of welding wire so can probably claim a little experience. One of the welders was a retired welding teacher. http://www.tanielle.com.au

Hi William, That’s one impressive boat!!! It also seems like you have, to put it mildly, done your due diligence on this material, and on a lot of other relevant topics. My only gripe is that it seems a pity to hide that material behind paint. I know it’s not realistic or smart to have a polished stainless steel hull, but what a vision that would have been! Thanks for sharing and congratulations with the boat!

Interesting, I will have to look into welding duplex more at some point. You have quite the impressive project there, I think you must have posted a picture or a link in the past as I have a vague recollection of this. I can now see more of what your thinking is. It would be interesting to look at different options and see the best way to reduce weight aloft such as going to a carbon fiber mast or synthetic rigging or duplex rigging or whatever else there may be.

Ignoring weld strength for a minute, if I understand what you are proposing, you still are introducing a pretty significant stress due to geometry. Do you have a plan for how to deal with this? Any change in diameter or shape is a stress concentration including a change to a larger diameter and in this case it means tension in the surface of the material which is the worst if you want to discuss fatigue. The concentration is due to the stiffness of the bigger diameter being greater and being at a greater radius so if you draw your stress lines, they really concentrate around the step as they try to transfer load out. Rod fittings are a decent example of about as practical a mitigation to this as is reasonable, the shape of the end is designed to give a nice large fillet and the mating fitting puts compressive stress on it that also helps but still it is the site where you will have issues.

I am guessing that the rod doesn’t have good enough tolerances and is too difficult to post machine to allow you to do a shrink fit to it? The advantage of that is you can make a very gradually tapered socket to shrink fit on so the stress concentration is much less pronounced. I have never seen a shrunk fit fitting on rigging but most rigging is small enough in diameter that you would need very tight tolerances and a large temperature differential for it to work whereas yours is big enough that it starts to work a lot better although I suspect the tolerances are still prohibitive.

Hi Eric, Thanks for your kind words. I had in mind discontinuous V1 so the lower could heavier and allow for welding a custom fork tapered to the top. Alternatively the rod itself could be threaded. Each of the higher segments would also be oversize although reducing in diameter as we went higher. Of course this all needs designing and finite element analysis. I once had a rudder that was a shrink fit and Tanielle has 4 taper locks to connect the quadrant and ram arms to its 110mm stock. I don`t think I would be comfortable with either method on rigging. Perhaps a shrink fit combined with a swage press could work and could be worth experimenting with to determine breaking load and repeat consistency. While I take your point on fatigue and stress concentrations the safe option is simply to overbuild. The existing rig design (see website) has the V1 as 115 Nitronic 22.2mm 48t UTS , V2 as 01 Nitronic 19.5MM 36.5 UTS V3 19mm Dyform. I woud up the V1 to 25.4mm Duplex V2 to 20mm Duplex and the Dyform to Duplex wire. My intention here is to elicit the wisdom of the group and get the sort of feedback you have so kindly provided

Do you believe your rule of “no loose lee shrouds …/… ” should be applied as well for catamarans?

My assumption is that catamarans have more structural “flexibility” on the lateral axis, compared to the lateral “stiffness” of single hulls, due to the structure holding the two hulls together, and hence may justify tuning with loose lee shrouds in heavy wind, without correlatively flapping lose during winter periods.

Thank you in advance.

Full rule: “ This is why all boats, with the possible exception of wooden ones, should be tuned so that the lee shrouds are not loose when hard on the wind and fully loaded—applies to wire standing rigging, too”

Hi Patrick, As I have many decades of multihull experience, including professional racing in the Formula classes, plus designing and building boats, I can say; no, that rule does not entirely apply to multihulls. I’m fairly certain that John also agrees about this and just forgot to mention it.

Most (not all) multihulls are indeed far more flexible, meaning that it’s often not possible to remove all slack. In most cases it’s just the leeward top shroud that is slack, and it’s not on a spreader. (Diamond stays should never be slack.) The much wider base means that the shroud angle is far better, meaning that the mast doesn’t get too much play, even with a lot of slack under load. I prefer to tension it as much as possible. At least make sure it’s never slack when not sailing. If tightening hard, be sure to know the structure of that specific boat.

The trouble with Lagoon 45 that has become very public lately, via Parlay Revival on YouTube, is a good example of too tight for a poorly made structure. Lagoon is by no means the only manufacturer with this build method and weaknesses. Most “budget” production boats, also monos, have the same problems to some extent. Wood is beautiful, strong and cheap, but it rots in water. For some “strange” reason wood inside boat structures tends to get wet. Why builders can’t grasp this and why they keep using wood for structural pieces is a mystery to me… (Nope. That’s just irony. Google “planned obsolence” or “The light bulb conspiracy.”)

The performance will not suffer much from this slack, since the fore and aft rig tension is what matters and that should indeed be properly tight. If you have a cat with no backstay or such, it’s a good idea to set the main halyard aft when not sailing. Tension it well to keep the headstay and the rest tight. I also usually put ropes across the head stay or wound in a spiral around the sail, to reduce oscillation in strong wind.

Even though wooden boats and multihulls often need the shrouds and perhaps more to not be entirely tight all the time, that doesn’t mean they have less of the problems other boats have when a slack rig piece is vibrating. It just means that we need to be more vigilant in our maintenance.

Hi Patrick,

I would go along with Stein’s answer, particularly since he has way more experience with multihulls than I do.

I would also change the rule around: if we have a boat on which we can’t keep the lee shrouds firm, then we should not fit said boat with rod rigging.

Hi John, You mention disassembly of compression cone terminals. I tried to do that on 2 occasions. The first was when I wanted to replace a bent segment of my roller furling profile and the second when I replaced the cap shrouds. In all cases it turned out to be impossible, at least to me, to disassemble the terminal with any hope of reusing the wire it was attached to. Of course no problem with the cap shrouds, they had to go anyway, but annoying in the case of the headstay inside the furling extrusion: The only way to disassemble the terminal, (pushing the terminal’s body away from the wedged up wire) was to cut the wire one or two inches from the terminal, and hammering down on the protruding wire with brute force. That did the trick finally. Not even fixating the wire in a vise and hammering on the lower end of the terminal – with a wooden block for protection – was enough to make the terminal body budge. Not to mention that the vise probably did the wire no good. Of course it’s possible to unscrew the eye or fork, is that what you mean by disassembly ? My conclusion is: never fiddle with a Norseman terminal unless you want to replace (or shorten) the wire. Besides, it seems impossible to get hold of new cones as Norsemans are no longer made. But there are other brands of course. Do you or anybody else know a way to disassemble a Norseman without destroying part of the wire ?

I have taken a Stayloc apart successfully, but it was on flexible wire (steering cable) not 1×19, so not the same thing at all, and probably not as highly loaded, and that was a struggle, so I think you are right and will make a note of that in the above when I edit it to add everyone’s wisdom.

Hi John, I just found mention of the “disassembly for inspection” here:

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/hidden-causes-of-rig-failure

and that makes it clear to me that by disassembly really is meant to unscrew eye or fork or whatever fitting there is from the terminal’s body and have a good look at the dead end of the wire. It could be called “opening” rather than disassembly. And of course it makes sense as the bad stuff seems to be happening where you can see it after having the terminal opened. But the threads have to be locked anew.

As an aside: Tylaska makes the cones for the Norseman fittings. They seem to have all sizes in stock. I needed new ones mainly for the expensive backstay isolators. As I have 2 independent backstays I decided to live with the old isolators although I replaced the wire.

That’s a good point. That said, I was under the impression, but could easily be wrong, that once we back off the thread on the eye, we are supposed to replace the cone before putting it back together. If that’s true, we will be starting again, and almost certainly cutting the wire.

I googled around a bit, but could not find a definitive answer on that. Does anyone know for sure?

Hi John, I just replaced my lower shrouds and the backstays with new wire. The backstays had (and have) Norsemans on their lower ends and there are these isolators with 2 each Norsemans. So I gained some experience with this type of compression cone fittings. I see no reason to replace the cone if the terminal is just opened (unscrewed) for inspection as the cone is not affected by this operation. Getting the threads cleaned enough for a proper redo of the loctite treatment could be a problem though. I didn’t have this problem as I replaced the wire anyway and so had good access to the threads. I found a good way to get the terminal off the wire in the process: cut the wire directly at the terminal and back out the cone with the wedged up wire out of the terminal’s body with a suitable punch, that way losing only an Inch or so of wire. This short length can in many cases be compensated for with the turnbuckle. Also I wondered at first why the cone has to be replaced at all, but once you have the wedged up wire in hand it becomes very clear that the cone is compressed on the wire’s core so much that you’re just not going to get if off undamaged. Bottom line: if not sure about the terminal then the best way is to check if the turnbuckle allows for some shortening of the wire and if so, cut and disassemble the terminal and redo with a new cone. One could also add a toggle to make up for the lost length if necessary, although not quite so elegant.

A good analysis that makes very good sense to me. Thank you. Also, thanks for the tip on getting the cone off with minimum wire loss.

I do still wonder if there is some reason that the cone should be replaced after just unscrewing the fitting for inspection, but I have to admit I can’t put a logical reason together to support that. What I should do is call say StayLoc and ask them, but right now I’m so busy with stuff I have promised that I’m scared to add something else to the list!

I watched one rig come down. Fortunately, it was inshore and was a rotating mast, so it lifted off the socket and the mast was undamaged. We helped them collect the pieces and towed them in. No one was hurt.

The cause? A bent toggle fractured. I had two of those crack on my Stiletto 2 (both in what you marked as the “danger area”) but I caught both during one of my regular walk-arounds (not the spring inspection–they were fine then). Ever since, I make a point of looking at them every few months.

Thanks, John! You say above “…because we discovered that she had been stored over at least one winter, and probably two, with the mast in—never a good idea, in my view…” I winter my boat in Rhode Island, and it seems 95%+ of owners leave the mast up. I’ve been taking mine down each winter, and storing it indoors. But I feel like the oddball. Would you please elaborate on this.

Thanks! Anthony

Hi Anthony,

Good on you. You are not an “oddball”. https://www.morganscloud.com/2014/11/01/the-dangers-of-storing-with-the-mast-stepped/

Added to the reasons I list in the above article, leaving the mast in add significantly to the wear and tear on all components of the rig due to constant vibration over the winters.

Hi Anthony and John, That said, and I agree, but most of the mast damage I have seen over the years has been on the unstepping and stepping of the mast and its storage (and wallet damage). I suspect the breaking point is closer to taking the mast out, but may be dependent on the skipper being present when the work is done: for example, I have watched turnbuckles dragged in the gravel/dirt on masts when no owner was present, but the crew was far more careful when I was there lending a hand and being involved. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

I agree on being there when the mast is unstepped, or stepped. Some tips on that here: https://www.morganscloud.com/2014/12/06/9-tips-to-make-unstepping-your-mast-easier/

Hi. What to use for lubrication of the turnbuckles? A Google search yields so many contradicting recommendations. I have used Lewmar winch grease (which is a calcium grease, and which is supposed to be VERY good), but Selden makes a rigging OIL that they recommend using (twice a year). Other say to use a molybdenum grease, and I even see some recommend Mc Lube SailKote.

Thanks, Arne.

Hi Arne, I hav used anhydrous lanolin for decades and been very happy. Lasts for a whole season or longer. I will be interested in what others use. My best, Dick Stevenson, sv Alchemy

I use my favourite Lubriplate, as I do for most everything on the boat. 130 AA https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/130-Series/NO-130-AA

Tales (not just) from the high seas

HOW TO INSPECT YOUR RIGGING

What to look for when inspecting your rigging. should you use dyneema instead of cable we share tips from our rigger..

This is the full interview with Jai, our rigger. He talks about what to look for when inspecting your rigging, whether using Dyneema instead of cable is a good idea, and much more.

We start off by looking at Esper’s own rigging, and then talk about general rigging inspection tips and tricks. We also find out quite a bit about why Dyneema is an option for rigging…as long as you do it properly.

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When we asked Jai for one piece of advice, he said “Keep everything clean and maintained, and the boat will look after you.”

If you have any further thoughts, we’d love to hear them in the comments below, or directly on the YouTube video.

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Parts of a Sailboat Rigging: A Comprehensive Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 6, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer: Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

The sailboat rigging consists of various components essential for controlling and supporting the sails. Key parts include the mast, boom, shrouds, forestay, backstay, halyards, and sheets.

Understanding the Basics: A Comprehensive Overview of the Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Title: Understanding the Basics: A Comprehensive Overview of the Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Introduction: Sailboats have been a symbol of freedom and adventure for centuries. Whether you are an avid sailor or an aspiring skipper, understanding the various components that make up a sailboat rigging is essential. In this insightful guide, we will dive into the world of sailboat rigging, unraveling its intricacies while shedding light on its importance and functionality. So tighten your mainsails and let’s set sail on this knowledge-packed journey!

1. Mast: The mast is the vertical spar that supports the sails . It provides structural integrity to the entire rigging system and enables harnessing wind power effectively. Constructed from materials such as aluminum or carbon fiber, modern masts are designed to be lightweight yet robust enough to withstand varying weather conditions .

2. Standing Rigging: The standing rigging refers to all fixed parts that support the mast. This includes stays (fore, back, and jumper) which run between the masthead and various points on the hull or deck, like chainplates or tangs. Shrouds (cap shrouds, intermediate shrouds) help counteract lateral forces by providing lateral support to prevent excessive sideward movement of the mast.

3. Running Rigging: Unlike standing rigging, running rigging comprises lines that control sails’ deployment and trim dynamically during sailing maneuvers . The halyard raises or lowers a sail along its respective track within the mast groove while keeping it securely fastened in place when needed.

4. Sails: Of course, we can’t discuss sailboat rigging without mentioning sails themselves! They are like wings for your boat – converting wind energy into forward motion efficiently . Main sails typically attach through slides onto a mast track using luff cars for easy hoisting and lowering during different conditions.

5. Boom: The boom plays a crucial role in sail control , as it connects the aft end of the mainsail to the mast. By controlling the angle of the boom, sailors can adjust the shape and trim of the main sail for optimum performance against varying wind conditions.

6. Spreader: Spreader arms are horizontal poles extending from some point up the mast’s length. They serve two purposes: keeping shrouds apart to improve sail shape and reducing compressive loads on the rigging by forcing them away from each other.

7. Turnbuckles: Turnbuckles are adjustable devices used to tension standing rigging elements such as shrouds and stays. These fittings allow sailors to fine-tune rigging tensions while maximizing stability and overall performance based on prevailing weather conditions.

8. Winches: Winches are mechanical devices primarily used for easing or trimming running rigging lines under high loads. With a simple rotation, winches convert human effort into mechanical advantage, allowing efficient handling of lines for adjusting sails in different situations.

Conclusion: Understanding your sailboat rigging is not just essential for safe sailing but also for harnessing its maximum potential during every voyage. From deciphering various components like masts, standing and running rigging, booms, spreaders, turnbuckles, and winches – each element plays a crucial role in ensuring a smooth sailing experience. So next time you find yourself out on open waters, take a moment to appreciate these intricate systems that keep you powered by nothing but wind!

Step by Step Guide: How to Properly Assemble and Install the Various Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Welcome fellow sailors and enthusiasts! Today, we are diving into the intricate world of sailboat rigging. Whether you are an experienced sailor or a newcomer to the sailing community, understanding how to properly assemble and install the various parts of a sailboat rig is essential for smooth and safe sailing. So, grab your tools and let’s get started on this step-by-step guide !

Step 1: Gather Your Tools and Materials Before embarking on this rigging journey, it’s crucial to have all your tools and materials ready. Here is a list of essentials you’ll need:

– Stainless steel wire rigging – Turnbuckles – Fittings and hardware such as clevis pins, shackles, and thimbles – Measuring tape or ruler – Wire cutters – Crimping tool or swaging machine (depending on your preference) – Electric drill (if required) – Lubricant or anti-seize compound

Make sure you have everything organized before starting. A well-prepared sailor is a successful one!

Step 2: Inspect Existing Rigging (If Applicable) If you own a used boat or are replacing old rigging, take some time to inspect the current setup. Look out for any signs of wear, frayed wires, or damaged fittings. It’s crucial to address these issues before proceeding with installation as they can compromise safety at sea.

Step 3: Measure Twice; Cut Once! Now that everything is set up let’s proceed by measuring the length needed for each piece of wire rigging carefully. Tinier inaccuracies in measurement during this step can lead to major inconveniences later.

Ensure you give yourself ample space for adjusting tension using turnbuckles. Pro-tip: It’s better to cut the wire slightly longer than needed rather than cutting it too short!

Step 4: Attach Fittings – The Devil Lies in Details Once you have measured and cut the rigging wire, let’s start attaching the fittings. This is where precision comes into play. Begin with inserting thimbles onto each end of the wires to avoid kinks or fraying. Next, connect the turnbuckles and fittings according to your sailboat’s specific rigging plan.

Step 5: Tension Matters Now that you have installed all the necessary fittings, it’s time to tension the rigging. This step requires a bit of finesse as over-tightening can damage equipment, while under-tightening can compromise performance.

Using a tension gauge, ensure that you achieve optimal tension on all parts of your sailboat’s rigging. It might take some trial and error, but finding that sweet spot is worth it!

Step 6: Inspect and Lubricate Before setting sail , always double-check everything! Look for any loose fittings or signs of wear once again. You wouldn’t want to go through these steps all over again out in the middle of nowhere!

Additionally, apply lubricant or anti-seize compound to prevent corrosion and ensure smooth operation of turnbuckles and other moving parts.

And there you have it – a professionally and properly assembled sailboat rigging! Sit back for a minute or two to appreciate your workmanship before feeling that excitement rush through as you’ll soon set sail smoothly onto those horizon-stretching waters.

Remember, practice makes perfect when it comes to mastering this skill. Over time, you’ll develop your own techniques and become a maestro at sailboat rigging assembly. Happy sailing!

Top Frequently Asked Questions about Sailboat Rigging Components Answered

Are you new to sailing or considering purchasing a sailboat? No matter your experience level, understanding the rigging components of a sailboat is crucial for safe and successful navigation on the water. In this blog post, we aim to answer some of the top frequently asked questions about sailboat rigging components. So, let’s dive in!

1. What are sailboat rigging components? Sailboat rigging components refer to the various parts and systems that help support and control the sails on a sailboat. These components include standing rigging (the fixed parts) and running rigging (lines that can be adjusted). Some common examples of rigging components are the mast, boom, shrouds, stays, halyards, sheets, and blocks.

2. What is the purpose of each rigging component? Each component serves a specific purpose in sailing . The mast supports the sails and provides leverage for controlling their shape. The boom holds down the bottom of the mainsail and allows adjustment for different points of sail . Shrouds provide lateral support to prevent excessive side-to-side movement of the mast. Stays offer fore-and-aft support to keep the mast from leaning too far forward or backward. Halyards raise and lower sails while sheets control their angle in relation to wind direction.

3. How often should I inspect my sailboat’s rigging ? Regular inspection is crucial for ensuring your safety on the water . We recommend conducting visual inspections before every sailing trip and more thorough inspections at least once a year or per manufacturer recommendations. Look out for any signs of wear, corrosion, loose fittings, or frayed lines that may indicate potential issues.

4. Can I replace my own rigging components? While minor repairs or adjustments can typically be done by boat owners with some knowledge and experience, replacing major rigging components should ideally be done by professionals who specialize in sailboat rigging services. They have the expertise and equipment necessary to properly install and tension components, ensuring your safety.

5. How long do sailboat rigging components typically last? The lifespan of rigging components depends on various factors such as usage, maintenance, and exposure to environmental conditions. Stainless steel stays can last for 10-15 years or longer with regular inspections and maintenance, while synthetic running rigging (such as ropes made from high-performance fibers) may have a shorter lifespan of 3-5 years.

6. Are there any safety tips related to sailboat rigging? Absolutely! Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment when working with or near rigging components. Take care not to overload or overstress the rig by correctly tensioning lines within manufacturer specifications . Avoid standing under or in close proximity to the mast while raising or lowering it, as it can be dangerous if it accidentally drops.

7. What are some common signs of rigging failure? Rigging failures can be catastrophic, so being able to identify potential issues is vital. Look out for visible cracks, rust, elongation, broken strands on wires, loose fittings, excessive wear on ropes, or unusual noises while sailing. Any of these signs should prompt an immediate inspection and possible replacement of affected components.

In conclusion, understanding sailboat rigging components is crucial for any sailor looking to navigate safely on the water. By familiarizing yourself with these frequently asked questions and following proper inspection and maintenance practices, you’ll enjoy a smooth sailing experience while prioritizing your safety at all times!

Exploring the Essential Components: An In-Depth Look at Key Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Sailing is a thrilling and age-old activity that has fascinated adventurers and seafarers for centuries. At the heart of every sailing vessel lies its rigging, which is a complex system of ropes, wires, and equipment that hold the sails in place and allows for precise control over the boat’s movement. In this blog post, we will take an in-depth look at the key components of a sailboat rigging to understand their importance and how they contribute to the overall sailing experience.

Mast: The backbone of any sailboat rigging is its mast. This tall vertical structure supports the sails and provides stability to the vessel . Made from materials such as aluminum or carbon fiber, masts are designed to withstand strong winds and carry considerable loads. They come in various shapes and sizes depending on the type of boat and intended use.

Boom: Attached horizontally towards the bottom of the mast, the boom serves as a critical component in controlling the position of the mainsail – typically the largest sail on board. Acting as an extension of the mast, it allows for adjustments in sail trim by pivoting up or down.

Shrouds: These sturdy wire cables are attached to either side of the mast at multiple levels, forming a crucial part of sailboat rigging’s structural integrity. Shrouds keep the mast upright by counteracting lateral forces created by wind pressure on sails . Adjustable tensioning systems enable sailors to fine-tune shroud tension according to prevailing conditions.

Stay: Similar to shrouds but located further forward on most boats, stays provide additional support for maintaining mast stability. Fore-stay runs from top-to-bow while back-stays run from top-to-aft; together they prevent excessive forward or aft bending movements during intense wind pressures.

Turnbuckles: Within sailboat rigging systems lie turnbuckles – mechanical devices used for adjusting tension in wires or ropes like shrouds or stays. These clever devices simplify the task of tightening or loosening rigging components, enabling sailors to optimize sail shape and boat performance with ease.

Halyards: Essential for hoisting sails up and down, halyards are ropes used to control the vertical movement of the sails . They are typically operated through winches, which increase mechanical advantage and make raising and lowering large sails manageable.

Blocks: Also known as pulleys, these simple yet crucial devices help redirect the path of ropes within a sailboat rigging system. Blocks increase mechanical advantage by changing the direction of applied force, making it easier for sailors to control different aspects such as sail trim or adjusting tension.

Running Rigging vs Standing Rigging: Sailboat rigging can be classified into two main categories – running rigging and standing rigging. Running rigging refers to all movable lines and ropes that control sail position, while standing rigging encompasses all stationary components that give structure to the mast. Both elements work in harmony to ensure efficient maneuverability and safety at sea .

Understanding these key components within a sailboat’s rigging is essential for any aspiring sailor or seasoned mariner alike. It not only allows them to appreciate how these intricately designed systems function together but also helps enhance their sailing skills by leveraging each component’s unique role.

So next time you set foot on a sailboat or watch one glide gracefully across the water, take a moment to admire the finely tuned rigging – a mesmerizing web of interconnected parts that enable humans to harness the power of wind and embark on unforgettable nautical adventures.

The Crucial Role of Each Part: Unveiling the Functionality and Importance of Sailboat Rigging Components

Sailboat rigging components may seem simple and insignificant at first glance, but anyone who has sailed knows just how crucial each part is to the overall functionality and performance of a sailboat. From the mast to the shrouds, every component plays a vital role in ensuring safe navigation, efficient sailing, and maximum performance on the water.

One of the most essential parts of any sailboat rigging system is the mast. Serving as the backbone of the entire structure, the mast provides vertical stability and supports various sails that catch the wind . The mast’s height and shape significantly impact a boat’s performance, affecting not only its speed but also its ability to handle different wind conditions. A sturdy mast ensures that forces are properly distributed throughout the rigging system, preventing excessive strain or potential failure.

Connected to both sides of the mast are what are known as shrouds. These cables or wires act as primary support structures for restraining lateral movement and maintaining balance in heavy winds. Shrouds come in different sizes and tensions depending on factors such as sail size and boat length. Proper tensioning of shrouds is crucial for maintaining structural integrity and minimizing flexing under intense force.

Another integral part is the forestay – a cable or wire running from near or at the top of the mast down to the bow area of a sailboat . The forestay supports forward strength and controls stay sag- an essential factor for optimizing aerodynamics by shaping how sails interact with wind. It helps maintain proper sail geometry while limiting unnecessary heel (leaning) during maneuvers or gusts.

The backstay is another component critical for stability and control. Running from either side of the stern up to near or at the top of the mast, it helps counterbalance fore-aft bending forces created by wind pressure against a boat’s sails pushing it forward. By adjusting backstay tension, sailors can fine-tune their boat’s responsiveness to changes in wind speed or balance.

The boom, a horizontal spar attached to the mast, plays a crucial role in controlling the angle and shape of the mainsail. It acts as a pivot point for adjusting sail trim, allowing sailors to maximize lift and minimize drag based on wind conditions. With its connection to the gooseneck at the foot of the mast, it enables easy raising and lowering of the mainsail for quick adjustments or docking maneuvers .

Moreover, various blocks and pulleys are scattered throughout a sailboat’s rigging system playing essential roles in creating mechanical advantages. These components reduce friction and redirect forces generated by sails and lines during sailing operations, making it easier for sailors to handle heavy loads while preserving their energy. Choosing high-quality blocks with low-friction bearings is crucial for efficient sail handling while maintaining control.

Understanding how each part functions individually is significant; but more importantly, appreciating how they work in harmony is where true seamanship resides. Rigging components must be designed and maintained carefully to ensure safety, performance, and optimal functionality on any sailing adventure.

In conclusion, sailboat rigging components may appear simple to some extent but hold tremendous importance in enhancing a boat’s capabilities on water. From providing vertical stability with masts and dampening lateral movement with shrouds to shaping sails’ interaction with wind using forestays and backstays – every component has a crucial role to play. Understanding how these parts function individually and collectively helps sailors navigate safely while maximizing performance out on the open sea

Troubleshooting Tips: Common Issues and Solutions related to different parts of a sailboat rigging

Introduction: The rigging of a sailboat is an essential component that allows for safe navigation and optimal performance on the water. However, like any mechanical system, it can experience issues from time to time. In this blog post, we will provide detailed professional troubleshooting tips for common problems related to various parts of a sailboat rigging. Whether you’re an experienced sailor or just starting out, these solutions will help keep your rigging in top shape and ensure smooth sailing on every adventure.

1. Mast and Standing Rigging: One common issue sailors face is the presence of squeaking noises coming from the mast or standing rigging while underway. This can be quite bothersome and distracting during a peaceful sail. To resolve this problem, start by checking the connections between different components of the rigging and tighten any loose fittings appropriately. Additionally, using lubricants specifically designed for marine environments can significantly reduce friction between movable parts, eliminating annoying creaks and groans as you ride the waves.

2. Shrouds and Forestay: Another issue frequently encountered involves misaligned shrouds or forestay tension that affects the overall stability of the mast. If you notice your mast leaning slightly to one side or backward, it’s likely due to incorrectly adjusted shrouds or an improperly tensioned forestay. To rectify this, use a tension gauge to ensure consistent tension across all shrouds while avoiding excessive strain on either side of the mast base. By maintaining proper alignment and equal tension distribution, your rigging will provide maximum support when experiencing strong winds or rough conditions.

3. Running Rigging (Lines): Running rigging encompasses all lines used for controlling sails such as halyards, sheets, and control lines – crucial elements for proper sail handling. A typical problem associated with running rigging is line chafing caused by repeated friction against sharp edges or abrasive surfaces onboard. Inspect your lines regularly for signs of wear, paying close attention to areas exposed to constant rubbing. To prevent chafing, secure protective coverings or install specialized guards where necessary. Regularly washing and lubricating your lines will also extend their lifespan and ensure smooth operation.

4. Block and Tackle Systems: Block and tackle systems play a vital role in distributing loads and facilitating the movement of sails, particularly in larger sailboats. A common issue arises when blocks become jammed or fail to rotate freely due to debris buildup or lack of proper maintenance. To address this problem, inspect all blocks systematically, disassembling them if required, and clean out any accumulated dirt or salt crystals thoroughly. After cleaning, applying a liberal amount of marine-grade grease will promote smooth rotation and reduce the likelihood of future blockages.

Conclusion: Effective troubleshooting is essential for maintaining a sailboat rigging system that performs optimally and ensures a safe experience on the water. By following these detailed professional tips, you can address common issues associated with different parts of your sailboat rigging promptly and efficiently. Remember to conduct regular inspections, prioritize preventive maintenance, and seek professional assistance whenever needed. With a well-maintained rigging system at your disposal, you can embark on each sailing journey confidently, knowing that you’re prepared to overcome any challenges that may arise along the way.

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How and When to Inspect the Mast of Your Sailboat

• November 14, 2023

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The importance of regular mast inspections for your sailboat.

If you’re a sailing enthusiast, you know how important it is to keep your boat in top condition. Regular technical inspections of the mast and rigging are essential tasks to ensure the safety of the crew and the protection of the boat. In this article, we’ll teach you when, why, and how to perform a technical inspection of the mast of your sailboat.

Why should you inspect the mast?

The mast is one of the most important elements of any sailboat. It is the main support for the sail and rigging, and its poor condition can have serious consequences. Wind, sun, and saltwater can cause damage to the mast and rigging, which could result in a breakage or loss of control of the boat. Regular technical inspection of the mast will allow you to detect any kind of problem, such as cracks, corrosion, fatigue, deformations, etc. This way, you can take preventive measures before problems become more serious and costly.

When is an inspection required?

The frequency of technical inspections will depend on how much you use your sailboat. Usually, it’s recommended to do an inspection every year, especially before starting the sailing season. It’s also recommended to do an inspection after sailing in extreme conditions, such as in a long-distance regatta or adverse weather conditions.

On the other hand, if you notice any changes in the behavior of the sailboat during sailing, you should stop and check the mast and rigging for any problems. Additionally, if you’ve noticed any problems or had any incidents during sailing, it’s important to do an immediate inspection to detect and solve the problem.

Should you need more details on how to keep your mast and rigging in optimal conditions, don’t miss out on our comprehensive guide: ‘Recommended Guide for Optimal Mast and Rigging Maintenance.’ You’ll uncover useful tips to ensure the safety and performance of your sailboat.

How to do it?

The inspection of the mast of your sailboat should be done by a professional, especially if you don’t have experience in the matter. A rigging expert can inspect your sailboat and detect any problems in the mast and rigging since they have the appropriate equipment and the necessary experience and knowledge to do it safely and effectively. However, if you prefer to do it yourself, you should follow these steps:

• Visually inspect the mast and rigging for any signs of wear or damage. Look for dents, corrosion, cracks, or bends in the tubes, pulleys, and connectors. Pay attention to the splices of the ropes and make sure they are well secured.
• Climb up the mast to visually inspect the rigging up close. If you have a very high mast, you will need to use harnesses and safety ropes to prevent falls. Inspect each piece of rigging, including the shrouds, stays, and pairs of the cross. Look for signs of damage, corrosion, and wear. Also, check the pieces that connect the rigging to the hull and mast.
• Inspect the sails. Carefully examine each sail for signs of wear, tears, or cracks. Verify that the sheets and ropes are in good condition and well adjusted.
• Check the tension of the rigging ropes. Excessive or inadequate tension may indicate problems in the mast or connectors.
• Verify that the pulleys of the rigging turn freely and without obstructions.
• Ensure that the mast anchoring system is secure and in good condition.
• Inspect the electrical wiring inside the mast to ensure that it is in good condition and properly connected.
• If you have a folding mast, check that the hinges are properly adjusted and in good condition.
• Check the inside of the mast for possible damage or deformations.

If you detect any problems, don’t hesitate to contact a rigging expert for advice and repair.

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Sailboat Mast and Rig Check

• By Bill Springer
• Updated: May 4, 2010

Checking the rig

With regular maintenance, an aluminum rig will last for years. But if neglect allows corrosion and fatigue to establish a foothold, it’s only a matter of time before something as small as a corroded clevis pin or a cracked turnbuckle could easily cause your rig to come crashing down.

A survey by a professional rigger may be the easiest way to stay out in front of potential rig problems, but if you’re going to check your rig yourself, consider these signs of trouble.

The most important thing is to be on the lookout for cracks and corrosion. Even with the rig out of the boat, many potential problems can stay hidden, so take the time to remove and examine both the fittings and the metal underneath. If the rig is painted, watch for bubbles in the paint, a sure sign of corrosion. If it’s anodized, watch for a white, powdery residue.

When you’re ready to get started, have the sailboat mast pulled, begin at the top, and use the following checklist.

Mast cap: Start by closely examining the cap for corrosion, cracks, and wear. Remove the backstay and forestay fittings and inspect where they attach to the cap. If the holes show excessive wear-such as a groove in the bottom of the hole-or have elongated, the cap needs to be repaired. Clevis pins should be straight and just wide enough to fit through the holes. If the pin is too thin or too long, it may bend or crack. It’s best to replace all undersized pins and all cotter pins. Never replace a clevis pin with a bolt. A bolt’s threads simply act like a file.

Check toggles for cracks and corrosion and for proper alignment. Remove all shackles and blocks. Inspect them for cracks, corrosion, and chafe.

Also, make sure that the antennas, lights, and wind instruments are functioning and that all wires are sufficiently protected against chafe. A chafed wire not only leads to a faulty masthead light; any stray current, even from something so small, can, when combined with water and salt, speed up rig corrosion dramatically.

Don’t forget the halyard sheaves. Make sure they run free and check the axle pin for cracks and wear.

Tangs and T-balls: Chances are that a shroud will fail where it attaches to something, so shroud tangs and T-ball sockets, which are crucial to the integrity of the whole system and subject to high loads and fatigue, deserve special attention. It’s important to inspect the tangs and T-ball sockets for corrosion and cracking where they connect to the sailboat mast. Keep an eye out for corroded or distorted fasteners, and make sure that all stainless-steel fittings are sufficiently isolated from an aluminum mast. It’s also critical to make sure that tangs and T-ball sockets are well reinforced and accept the shroud at the proper angle. A misaligned tang or weak T-ball socket can cause a shroud to fail.

The Mast: As you work your way down the mast, keep an eye out for corrosion, chafed areas, cracks, and dents in the mast extrusion itself. Even a small dent can weaken a mast enough to make it buckle. If your mast consists of two extrusions spliced together, make sure that the splice is tight, straight, and free of loose or corroded fasteners.

Spreaders: Spreaders are designed to withstand compression loads, but for them to function properly, the angle that a spreader forms with the shroud must be 90 degrees, i.e., equal both above and below the spreader. A cracked, bent, or overly worn spreader is a good clue that it was probably misaligned and needs to be repaired or replaced.

Check for cracks, wear, and corrosion in the spreader bases and check for excessive play in the spreader. It’s a good idea to remove the bases to verify the condition of the interior of the mast wall and of the compression tube running through the mast.

Spreader tips are another common trouble spot. They’re subject to extreme load fluctuations and are usually covered with chafe guards that can trap water and starve the stainless steel of oxygen-a perfect recipe for corrosion. Make sure to remove the chafe guards and thoroughly inspect the spreader tips.

Mast step: Because of its proximity to the bilge, a keel-stepped mast is highly susceptible to corrosion. Improper mast drainage and any loose current from a frayed wire can also contribute to corrosion of both the bottom of the mast and the step itself. Excessive corrosion could indicate one or all of these problems. Keel-stepped masts are also susceptible to corrosion where the mast passes through the deck. Check for cracks and wear under the mast boot.

Deck-stepped masts aren’t as prone to corrosion at the base as keel-stepped masts, but it’s still important to check for cracks, corrosion, and proper drainage and to make sure that the deck isn’t deformed.

Standing rigging: With wire rigging, cracked swages (fittings compressed onto the wire under high pressure) are a common cause of rig failure, so make sure to check that each swaged fitting is straight and free of cracks and corrosion. Water and salt running down the wire and seeping into the fitting can speed up swage corrosion, so even if the fitting is free of cracks, be on high alert for corrosion near the top of the fitting. It could be an indication that the interior of the fitting has started to corrode and may be untrustworthy. Mechanical or swageless compression fittings like those made by Norseman and Staylock are generally more durable than swaged fittings, but these still should be checked periodically.

Then check the turnbuckles. Make sure each is straight and free of corrosion and cracks. All turnbuckles should be clean and lubricated, and should be secured with brand-new split rings or cotter pins.

Then check the wire for corrosion and broken strands. Just one broken strand can make the wire untrustworthy. In many ways, rod rigging is better, although more expensive, than wire, but potential problems with rod rigging are harder to detect. Potentially fatal cracks often occur inside fittings and can cause the rod to fail unexpectedly. Examine each rod head and fitting closely.

Chainplates: Water and salt often get trapped between the chainplates and the deck, where corrosion is difficult to detect. If the chainplate seal is broken or you see evidence on the inside of the boat that water is seeping down the chainplates, chances are that the chainplates could be corroded and will need some special attention. Do yourself a favor. Fix that cracked turnbuckle or bent fitting now. The rig you save may be your own.

Bill Springer is Cruising World’s senior editor.

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Rigging Inspection

• Thread starter Phil Herring
• Start date Sep 7, 2018
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Phil Herring

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

Another reason to get a bos'n chair or steps. I noticed that even though my outer stays are tensioned withing the recommended specs of the wire, my leeward stay goes slack.  

Here in the Pacific Northwest, it's unusual to hear of anyone with corroded rigging up high. It happens, just not with the frequency of those who sail warmer waters. Having said that, regular careful inspections are always a good idea. Personally, I don't always get the high part of the inspection done. On my 1989 Hunter, the upper rigging looked perfect last time I was up there a year ago. It just takes an effort to coordinate a look on top because I can't do it alone. Because it's a fractional rig I also need to take some extra precautions when I go above the jib halyard. This is because I don't have a line to belay me above that point. Here I tie a prusik knot directly to the mast. (I suspect this will only work on some masts depending on how slick they are. ) I usually have my son belay me. Down low, I inspect more than annually. This reminds me that I should be putting that in my maintenance log so I don't forget when it was last done. Ken  

Fish hooks and corrosion. That is what you are looking for. I run my hands along the full lengths of all of the cables to detect broken strands, i.e. fish hooks I inspect the ends for signs of corrosion and cracks. The problem is that is not always visible. That is why we put the 10 year life on the rigging.  

Don S/V ILLusion

I don't understand - why wouldn't everyone regularly inspect their rigging and all fittings (or have them inspected)? Do people actually not make that a regular routine?  

Also, irrespective of inspection, most recommend the standing rigging should be replaced at intervals simply as a function of advancing age. Not all potential failures can be seen. At 10 years of reasonably hard duty on San Francisco Bay, my rig is now overdue. My personal experience: Five years into my previous re-rigging, I hired an experienced rigger to do a detailed inspection. I was at the boat to watch and listen to his item-by-item narrative. He inspected everything. Mast head to chain plate hull tabbing to the hull to the stem head fitting to the split backstay u-bolts. A few small items were flagged and were corrected. About 12 months later, while sailing in a 20kt wind, I felt a shudder and then observed my jib and furler flailing way off to port -- no longer attached to the bow. The double-jaw toggle connecting the forestay to the bow stem fitting had failed. Later, I recalled that the rigging inspector did indeed check this part. When I looked hard at the failed toggle up close, it became apparent that a stress crack had started on the inside where it was not visually observable unless it had been dissassembled from the boat. I was fortunate that the rig did not immediately collapse. So I was able to get the boat pointed down wind to transfer all of the stress to the back stay a spare halyard tied to the Sampson Post at the bow. Pictures of the failed part and a close-up of the fracture attached:  

Attachments

I just hired a professional rigger to do a full inspection of our rigging. As part of this job I'm having him provide a maintenance/inspection plan going forward of things I can do and things I should hire him for. While he's up there, I'm going to have him replace my steaming/deck light fixture with a MarineBeam LED type, and replace the anchor light bulb with an LED bulb.  

• I had a 1 year old survey provided by the broker. It was pretty useless.
• I had my own experiences which gave me caution.
• I had a friend, sailor who had helped me find the boat and we explored the Hadley for issues.

Had a rigger look at rig before I purchased and subsequently had another rigger inspect the rigg after I bought and all came back as fine. Every year I climb my mast and inspect all the fittings and run my hand down the wires. Almost every time before I go sailing I feel the rigging to make sure all is tight and that no changes have occurred. This year I am taking down my mast and will start to replace the rig as it is 13 years old. Figure if I do it a couple at a time the bite won't be so bad. Greg  

I have a GREAT rigger and consult with him regularly when I see things that look sketchy. Bought the boat when it was 6 year old. At 12 years an internal wiring conduit slipped down inside the mast and cut my radio coax and anchor light. I noticed the radio wasn’t broadcasting, then noticed I had no anchor lamp. The mast had to come off to affect the conduit repair and since it was 12 years, decided to do the standing rigging - down to and including the chain plates. Chain plates on a Beneteau are real simple. Built all new standing rigging, re-wired the mast, installed a marinebeam LED anchor light, new masthead antennae and some bits and pieces of the jib furler. It was pretty extensive but now I have a baseline to work with and I go sailing without wondering if the rig is up to the job. My perspective is that Beneteau carefully engineered and overbuilt the standing rig for the loads the boat will experience at the hand of a prudent owner. I rely on their engineering and the expertise of a pro-rigger. My job is to sail the boat, observe the rig and report out if something looks wrong. Pretty simple protocol.  

Gunni said: I have a baseline to work with and I go sailing without wondering if the rig is up to the job. Click to expand

While we read comments here by those who do maintain their rigging, the question Phil posed implies some people may not. At least one person suggested geography rather than age, use or water (salt vs. fresh) bears on his maintenance schedule. It makes me wonder how many don't and what reasons they have.  

Don S/V ILLusion said: While we read comments here by those who do maintain their rigging, the question Phil posed implies some people may not. At least one person suggested geography rather than age, use or water (salt vs. fresh) bears on his maintenance schedule. It makes me wonder how many don't and what reasons they have. Click to expand

thinwater said: I think you KNOW that only a few percent do, and I think you can think of several reasons. [I used to do NDT and refinery inspections as part of my day job] Click to expand

I perform dye penetrant testing on my fittings. Don't see how you can visually inspect stainless steel fittings by eye and have any confidence in knowing they are good. Hard enough with penetrant inspections. Visual inspections are good to do, don't mean to say they aren't. I use them to know when I need to get more serious and pull out the penetrant inspection kit. There is a big difference between fresh and salt water conditions are far as frequency. On fresh water I think visuals once a year and as long as nothing shows up, penetrant comes out every 5 years. Salt water I inspect low end pretty much every time I'm going out for a "serious" sail. Minimim once a year top and bottom. Penetrant inspection if anything looks questionable, or once every two years. Not sure I agree with the 10 year limit, but that depends upon the safety factor used when the rigging was originally built. I personally prefer nothing below a 250% safety factor. dj  

Will Gilmore

I can't say I have a replacement schedule, specifically. I don't really know that much about the life expectancy of my standing rigging. This thread is certainly welcome food for thought. As far as visual inspection schedules, when I'm on, near sailing the boat. For my Hobie and Mariner 19, I constantly watch her, the rig, the mast. I walk along the trailer and don't even think about it, but I am checking the state of chain plates, turnbuckles, pins, shackles, looking for rust, etc. When I raise the mast, I feel how the mast moves, the tabernacle looks and sits, if the stays are kinked or burred. When I'm sailing I look for changes in the rig's tuning, the feel of the boat when I tack. I rarely inspect as a formal process, I'm just always doing it. If I owned a boat with no trailer, It seems like once a year, at least, it would be good to go up the mast. Use would make a difference. Long sails through varied weather, ocean sailing in big seas and high winds, constant tension versus, daily disconnection of stays would make a difference. Any recommendations would be appreciated. -Will (Dragonfly)  

I’m amazed how many sailors do not inpsect their rigging on a regular basis. We do every time we go out. I posted this in another forum, but it belongs here too. On the race I sailed with the couple in the other fleet on Sunday, we blew up the vang going upwind in 16 knots of true wind. The screw pin had come out of the shackle loop, and was held closed only by the strength of the stainless resisting bending. Probably had been like that all year, but in practice (the way they sail) they never load up their vang. Well I did, and it pulled apart under pressure and blew. Bang! Had it been inspected and closed it never would have been close to its breaking strength and would not have failed. I hate to think about if that had been a mission critical part of the standing rigging. Inspect inspect inspect.  

Back when I was racing road machines at twice freeway speeds, everything got a good look every run. Perfectly good looking gear got replaced because it had seen full load cycle enough times to be questionable. For everyday road rides the inspection schedule was MUCH relaxed. Stuff wears out based on how much you stress it. Having a suspension or drive component part will ruin your day. When I sail in a gale for a few days, or the boat takes a real beating on a cruise I give it a good look, and have the rigger with me for inspection. Having a rig go over the side offshore will ruin your day. At 10 years the manufacturers and riggers tell you that their capabilities for visual, or die inspection are marginal - you want confidence, pay for it and replace your perfectly fine gear.  

My friend is having to replace the 7 year old rod rigging on his new to him boat. The Lloyds of London underwriter decided 7 year old rigging is no longer worthy of insurance.  

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Leeuwin update: Iconic ship one step closer to setting sail after damaged parts removed from ship

WA’s Leeuwin ship is one step closer to getting back on the water, with the de-rigging process to remove its mangled masts after it was crushed by a cargo ship now finished.

The STS Leeuwin II was left smashed with broken masts, rigging and debris strewn across the deck after cargo ship Maersk Shekou ran into the anchored vessel while berthed in Fremantle Port about 6am on August 30.

The ship masts, spars and rigging were all left significantly damaged. However, the hull of the ship remained intact and watertight.

In the latest optimistic update, all the damaged parts from the Leeuwin have been taken off the ship.

The parts with be assessed by the crew with the intention of salvaging as much as possible, Leeuwin Adventure Foundation chief executive Lawson Dixon said on Thursday.

“It is too early to determine a detailed timeline of any repairs to Leeuwin or to know when the vessel will return to serving the young people of Western Australia,” Mr Dixon said.

“Until all damage is assessed, it is impossible to know the nature and extent of repairs and the funds and resources required to complete those repairs.”Mr Dixon said he was grateful for the outpouring of support from the community following the incident.

“In the days after the 30 August incident, Friends of the Leeuwin, a group of passionate current and former volunteers and supporters established the Phoenix Fund,” he said.

“This fundraising effort is separate from Leeuwin’s existing donations fund, which has operated for many years and supports the ongoing operations of the vessel and its programs.

“We are very grateful to have this support, which makes a material difference and demonstrates the passion that Western Australians have for the Leeuwin.

“Atop Leeuwin’s 33-metre-tall main mast is a metal plaque inscribed with a special message of encouragement and inspiration for those daring enough to make the climb.

“The message is kept secret by those who make the climb to see it – and will remain so, as we work together so a new generation of young West Australians can one day climb Leeuwin’s heights again.”

Minderoo Foundation chairman Andrew Forrest — who supports the Leeuwin Ocean Adventure Foundation — has also thanked volunteers and staff of the Leeuwin.

“I also want to recognise all the Leeuwin staff, including Captain James Rakich and Leeuwin leaders Matthew Neal and Lawson Dixon, for their calm and compassionate handling of this event,” he said.

“Most importantly, I want to thank the volunteers whose dedication and generosity make the Leeuwin a truly community-run operation. Along with the support of the entire WA community, they are the lifeblood of the Leeuwin.

“It will be community support that ultimately sees the Leeuwin sail again. I urge everyone to get behind the Leeuwin and its team as they seek to rebuild and return to their role providing life-changing experiences for generations of young Western Australians.”

Two crew members, who were asleep in the cabin of the Leeuwin at the time, were taken to Fiona Stanley Hospital and Royal Perth Hospital with non-life-threatening injuries, with one man believed to have suffered a broken arm.

The men were sleeping in the hull when they were woken by a loud crack. It is believed they suffered the injuries as they escaped the ship.

The container ship had also “slightly impacted” the Maritime Museum nearby, with structural engineers called in to assess the integrity of the building.

The Fremantle Port, the Australian Maritime Safety Authority and the Australian Transport Safety Bureau have launched an investigation into the incident.

Those who wish to support the recovery of The Leeuwin can donate to the Phoenix Fund and sign up for news and updates on its progress at sailleeuwin.com .

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